JP3319545B2 - Polyester multifilament entangled composite yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament composite yarn, and more particularly, to a polyester multifilament composite yarn capable of providing a woven / knitted fabric having a soft and bulky appearance and having a heather-like or frosting-like appearance. About.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilaments have been used in various applications including apparel applications and industrial materials, taking advantage of their excellent properties. For use in clothing, composite yarns composed of a plurality of multifilaments having different heat shrinkage properties have been widely used because they exhibit excellent properties and texture such as bulkiness and warm feeling. However, when all the multifilaments constituting the composite yarn shrink due to heat, the difference in shrinkage rate of the yarn cannot be sufficiently secured due to the binding force of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, and the yarn shrinks. Woven and knitted fabrics tend to be hard, and therefore measures have been taken to reduce the basis weight and provide shrinkage allowance. However, a filament having a large heat shrinkage is generally cured by heat treatment, and a satisfactory texture cannot be obtained. On the other hand, a composite yarn of a filament that expands and a filament that contracts by heat treatment is also known. For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-28515 discloses a filament composed of a filament that contracts by heating and a filament that spontaneously extends. Composite polyester filaments which give a knitted fabric with a silky texture with excellent levelness are shown.

Although the composite polyester filament has a remarkable improvement in bulkiness as compared with the case where all the multifilaments constituting the composite yarn shrink due to heat, the filament constituting the composite polyester filament has a remarkable improvement. All are basic dye-dyeable polyester filaments, the strength of which is not always sufficient, and the weight loss rate is higher than that of ordinary polyethylene terephthalate, so that the use thereof may be limited. Further, since all the filaments constituting the composite polyester filament are basic dye dyeable polyester filaments, the leveling property is very good, but it is not suitable for obtaining a heather-like or frost-like appearance.

Therefore, the present invention proposes Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 2-307931 as having a mild heather appearance. The present invention relates to a composite yarn composed of a heat-expandable multifilament and a heat-shrinkable multifilament, and by making the polymer component different between the heat-expandable multifilament and the heat-shrinkable multifilament, It has both a soft texture and a mild heather appearance. However, in the present invention, since there are two types of multifilaments constituting the composite yarn, compared with the color tone of a spun yarn which is spun by aligning tops dyed in a number of colors such as wool, Sometimes it's not good enough. This is thought to be related to the fact that the composite yarn of the present invention substantially contains only two colors, whereas the wool top dyed product contains many colors.

[0005] Further, in the composite yarn disclosed in this publication, there is a case where it is difficult to obtain a texture at the time of dyeing processing depending on the type of the polymer component of the heat-shrinkable multifilament. For example, when the heat-expandable polyester multifilament is a normal polyethylene terephthalate and the heat-shrinkable multifilament is a combination of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester, the heat-shrinkable cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament that substantially affects the strength of the fabric is In general, the strength is low, and the rate of weight loss by alkali treatment is faster than that of heat-expanded polyeletin terephthalate multifilament. Therefore, when alkali treatment is performed to a weight reduction rate sufficient to satisfy a soft feeling, the fabric strength may be insufficient, If only the alkali treatment for suppressing the rate is used, the soft feeling may be insufficient. When the heat-shrinkable multifilament is made of a thermoplastic film synthetic fiber (for example, polyamide or the like) that does not substantially dissolve in alkali, the weight reduction by alkali treatment is not limited to only the heat-extended polyester multifilament, and constitutes a woven fabric. It is difficult to make a gap between the warp and the weft. Therefore, it is difficult to finish bending and shearing of the fabric softly.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and has a better heather tone or wrinkle closer to top dyed wool than conventional multifilament composite yarns. While having a marbled appearance, it can produce a soft and bulky texture without any problem in fabric strength.

[0007]

That is, the present invention relates to a composite yarn comprising 1.3 or more kinds of polyester multifilaments, wherein the polyester yarn is dyeable to a cationic dye and the polyester yarn is substantially a dye. Contains an unstainable polyester multifilament, and has a degree of entanglement [Di] of 5 to 100 containing a multifilament satisfying at least the following (1) to (5).
/ M / m. SHD (A) [%] ≦ 0 (1) SHD (B) [%]> 0 (2) SHD (B) [%] − SHD (A) [%] ≧ 5.0 (3) DT (B) [G / den] ≧ 4.0 (4) Polyester multifilament A: Polyester multifilament substantially instable to cationic dyes (5) However, SHD (A) is a polyester multifilament constituting a composite yarn. 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage [%] of A,
SHD (B) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn at 160 ° C., DT
(B) shows the breaking strength [g / den] of the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn. 2. 2. The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to the above item 1, wherein the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn is a polyester multifilament substantially immiscible with a cationic dye. 3. Polyester multifilament A and polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn are polyester multifilaments substantially immiscible with the cationic dye, and the other polyester multifilament C constituting the composite yarn is dyeable with the cationic dye. The first multi-filament polyester filament
The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to the above. 4. The breaking strength of each of the polyester multifilaments A and B constituting the composite yarn was measured as DT (A) [g / de.
n] and DT (B) [g / den], wherein the following formula (6) is satisfied. DT (B) [g / den] -DT (A) [g / den] ≧ 1.0 (6) 3. The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to the above item 1, wherein the denier of each of the three or more polyester multifilaments constituting the composite yarn is 10% or more of the denier of the composite yarn.

[0008] It is important that the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention comprises a polyester multifilament which is dyeable with a cationic dye and a polyester multifilament which is substantially immiscible with the cationic dye. is there. This is for giving a dyeing difference between the constituent multifilaments of the composite yarn. It is important that the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention is composed of three or more types of polyester multifilaments. This is because those composed of two or less types of multifilaments are not sufficient in terms of the appearance of heather or frosting compared with top dyed wool.

The polyester substantially immiscible with the cationic dye referred to in the present invention is a polyester containing no component having a chemical affinity for the cationic dye, such as a carboxylic acid component containing a metal sulfonic acid salt. It is a polyester that does not have a clear dyeing property that is sufficient for use in clothing even if it is slightly contaminated with cationic dyes. Say what has. For example, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing an isophthalic acid component and the like correspond to this, and polyethylene terephthalate is optimally used.

In the present invention, the term "polyester dyeable to a cationic dye" means, for example, a compound having a repeating unit of alkylene terephthalate of 80 mol% or more and having a chemical affinity for a cationic dye such as a carboxylic acid component containing a sulfonic acid metal base. Those having a copolymerized polyester,
When dyeing at normal pressure or high pressure is carried out using a cationic dye, the dyeing dye has a practically sufficient dyeing property for use in clothing.

[0011] Both the polyester dyeable to the cationic dye and the substantially non-stainable polyester are added with a small amount of a matting agent such as titanium oxide, a fine pore-forming agent such as kaolinite, and an antistatic agent. May be.

The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention has a polyester multifilament A having an SHD (160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage etc.) of 0% or less and a polyester multifilament B having an SHD exceeding 0% according to the measurement method described below. Must be included. In the heat treatment at the time of dyeing under the restraining force of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, the composite yarn expresses a sufficient yarn foot difference, and in order to obtain a preferable swelling feeling, heat-stretched polyester multifilament A and heat-shrinkable polyester Both of the multifilaments B are required. Polyester multifilament A
SHD is required to be 0% or less, preferably -2% or less, and most preferably -4% or less. The lower limit is
For suppressing the pilling defect, -15% or more can be exemplified. The SHD of the polyester multifilament B must exceed 0, preferably 5% or more, and most preferably 10% or more. However, if the content exceeds 70%, it becomes difficult to handle the dyeing process, so it is preferable to keep the content to 70% or less.

And polyester multifilament B
And the SHD difference between the polyester multifilament A and the polyester multifilament A must be 5% or more. If less than 5%, S
Even if HD (A) [%] ≦ 0 and SHD (B)> 0 are satisfied, the swelling feeling cannot be said to be sufficient and is excluded from the present invention. It is preferably at least 7%, more preferably at least 14%.

Further, polyester multifilament B
Has a DT (breaking strength) of 4.0 g /
It is necessary to be den or more. Since the polyester multifilament B shrinks by heat, when the woven or knitted fabric is dyed, the yarn foot becomes a relatively short component in the composite yarn, which is related to the strength of the woven or knitted fabric. Depends on the mixing ratio of the polyester multifilament A to the composite yarn of the SHD or the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament, the woven structure and density, the alkali weight loss during dyeing, etc., but less than 4.0 g / d ,
In some cases, the fabric strength becomes insufficient, and it is difficult to achieve the object of the present invention. More preferably 4.5 g / d
That is all.

[0015] The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention needs to have a filament entangled by a fluid entanglement treatment, and has a Di
It is necessary that the (entanglement degree) be 5 or more and 100 or less. If it is less than 5 / m, the handleability in the steps of twisting, warping, weaving and the like is poor, and is excluded from the present invention. On the other hand, if it exceeds 100 pcs / m, the difference in the yarn foot during dyeing due to the SHD difference between the polyester multifilaments A and B is unlikely to occur, and the woven or knitted fabric lacks swelling and becomes coarse and hard. Exclude from It is more preferably from 15 to 80 / m, most preferably from 20 to 60 / m.

[0016] The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention is intended to give a wool top-dyeing good heathered or marbled appearance in a dyeing process by dyeing after weaving and weaving. It contains polyester multifilaments that are dyeable in dyes and polyester multifilaments that are substantially insoluble in cationic dyes. The polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn is preferably a polyester multifilament substantially immiscible with a cationic dye. The polyester filament B is related to the strength of the woven or knitted fabric after the dyeing process, and in the present invention, the DT is 4.0.
Although it is necessary to be g / d or more, it is preferable that the rate of weight loss during the alkali weight reduction processing is relatively slow between constituent filaments from the viewpoint of maintaining strength. In general, a polyester dye capable of dyeing a cationic dye has a lower breaking strength and a higher weight loss rate than a polyester multifilament substantially non-stainable with a cationic dye (eg, polyethylene terephthalate). May not be suitable for

The method of producing the polyester multifilament A constituting the composite yarn will be described later, but in order to reduce the SHD thereof to 0 or less, a relaxation heat treatment using a non-contact heater at a high relaxation rate of 20% or more is used. Is obtained. Accordingly, since the molecular chain orientation is low and the crystallinity is low, there is a difference in the exhaustion of the disperse dye from that of a polyester multifilament which is not subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. The polyester multifilament A is made different from other constituent polyester multifilaments by optimizing the difference in dyeing conditions and taking advantage of this difference.
A subtle dyeing difference can be provided. From this point, it is preferable that the polyester multifilament A is a polyester filament which is substantially insoluble in a cationic dye and is dyed by a disperse dye.

When both polyester multifilaments A and B are polyester multifilaments substantially immiscible with cationic dyes, the cationic dyes contain dyeable polyester multifilaments C in addition to A and B. This combination is a preferable combination in order to achieve both the strength of the woven or knitted fabric and the good appearance of the heather or marbled appearance. In this case, it is preferable that the molecular chains have different orientations in order to give a dyeing difference due to the disperse dye between the polyester multifilaments A and B. In order to understand the difference, a difference in DT (breaking strength) is required. And DT of the polyester multifilament B is compared with polyester multifilament A
Is preferably lower than 1.0 g / den. Most preferably, it is 1.5 g / den or more.

When the above polyester multifilaments A and B are substantially insoluble in cationic dyes and the polyester multifilaments C are made of polyester dyeable to cationic dyes, the relationship of each SHD is as follows:
HD (B)> SHD (C) is optimal in terms of maintaining the strength of the woven or knitted fabric, and SHD (C) is SHD (A).
It may have the same thermal extensibility (SHD (C) ≦ 0) as that of (1).

The three or more types of polyester multifilaments constituting the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention satisfy extreme heat or frosting appearance, and are extremely important in maintaining the strength of the woven or knitted fabric. It is not preferable that the denier mixture ratio is deviated in the constituent polyester multifilaments, and it is preferable that the denier of each constituent polyester multifilament is present in 10% or more with respect to the denier of the composite yarn. It is preferably at least 15%.

The single fiber denier of the polyester multifilament A, whose yarn foot becomes relatively long after dyeing, is preferably relatively thin in order to soften the surface touch of the woven or knitted fabric, and is preferably 0.1 denier to 6 denier. The degree can be exemplified. The single fiber denier of the polyester multifilament B, whose yarn foot becomes relatively short after the dyeing process, is preferably relatively thick in order to give a moderate tension to the woven or knitted fabric, and is preferably from 1.5 denier to 10.0 denier. Denier can be exemplified. Polyester multifilaments A and B and other constituents The cross section of the filaments of the polyester multifilament is not particularly limited, and in addition to a normal round cross section, any of various, polygonal, hollow and other specially shaped cross sections can be used. .

When the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention is twisted and used, the appearance of heather or frosting is further improved, which is preferable. The number of twists at this time is as follows: the denier of the composite yarn is D [den] and the number of twists is T [T
/ M], a range of about 500 ≦ T (D) 1/2 ≦ 30000 can be exemplified.

Next, an example of the method for producing the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention will be described. In order to produce a polyester multifilament A having a heat elongation property, an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1500 to 4000 m / min is first heated to a preheating temperature Tg (glass transition temperature) to T
The film is stretched at g + 20 ° C. and stretched so that the elongation at break becomes 25 to 45% without any setting other than preheating. The drawn yarn becomes a high shrinkage drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20 to 60%.
The drawn yarn is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment using a non-contact heater at a high relaxation rate such as a relaxation rate of 20% or more and 100% or less.
The heat treatment temperature is closely related to the denier of the multifilament, the yarn speed, and the dimensions of the heater.
It can be appropriately adjusted so that D (A) [%] ≦ 0. As described above, the obtained polyester multifilament A
And SHD (B) [%]> 0, DT (B) [g / den]
3 or more polyester multifilaments including polyester multifilament B having ≧ 4.0 are combined. The polyester multifilament B satisfies SHD (B) and DT (B) by appropriately drawing an undrawn yarn. When three or more polyester multifilaments are combined, the cationic dye must contain a dyeable polyester multifilament and a cationic dye substantially non-stainable polyester multifilament. For compounding, using a fluid entangled nozzle,
To process. A so-called interlacer nozzle or Taslan nozzle can be used as the fluid entanglement nozzle, and 5 ≦ Di [ke /
m] ≦ 100, the dimensions of the nozzle, the yarn speed, the pressure of the fluid, the tension of the running yarn and the like are adjusted.

In this way, the polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention can be obtained. However, it is preferable that the steps are continuously performed because the cost can be reduced. For example, spinning and stretching of polyester multifilament A, stretching and relaxation heat treatment, relaxation heat treatment and compounding, and spinning and stretching of polyester multifilament B can be easily and continuously performed. The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention is twisted, knitted, woven and dyed as required.

During the dyeing process, the woven or knitted fabric is sufficiently contracted in the relaxing step and preset, and a yarn foot difference is developed between the polyester multifilaments A and B. If necessary, an alkali weight loss treatment is performed, but it is preferable to keep the weight loss rate up to about 30% in order to maintain the fabric strength. At the time of dyeing, dyes (disperse dyes, cationic dyes) having a heather-like or marble-like appearance and dyeing conditions are selected and dyed. The final setting is performed to remove the strain of the woven or knitted fabric and obtain the dyeing finish.

Next, the measuring method used in the present invention will be described. (1) SHD (dry heat 160 ° C. shrinkage ratio) The following was performed according to JIS-L-1073. That is, the initial load is 1/10 [g / den] on a wrap reel with an appropriate frame
The wound wound is removed, a 1/30 [g / den] load is applied to the wound, and its length L0 [mm] is measured. Then, the load is removed, and the litter is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes while applying 1/1000 [g / den]. After that, the water is removed from the scallop, and after cooling, 1/30 [g / de
n] and a length L1 [mm] at that time is measured. Then, after drying at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes, 1/1000
Dry heat 160 [° C] with a load of [g / den] applied
And the length L2 [mm] at that time is measured. The hot water shrinkage and the dry heat 160 ° C. boiling shrinkage (SHD) are calculated by the following equations. Hot water shrinkage [%] = (L0−L1) × 100 / L0 SHD [%] = (L0−L2) × 100 / L0 (2) DT (breaking strength) According to JIS-L-1013 (1981) Using Toyo Baldwin's Tensilon, sample length 200 [m
m], the SS curve was measured at a tensile speed of 200 [mm / min], and the breaking strength was measured. (3) Di (degree of confounding) Take out a yarn of an appropriate length, and put 1/10 [g / de
n] and suspend vertically. Then, an appropriate needle is pulled out of the thread, slowly lifted, and the distance [cm] traveled until the load is lifted is measured 20 times. From this, an average value L [cm] is obtained and calculated by the following equation. Di [ケ / m] = 100 / (2 × L)

Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin chip having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.61 was melt-spun at a spinning speed of 3000 [m / min], and then cold-drawn at a preheating temperature of 80 [° C] and a draw ratio of 1.67 times. , 20en / 18fil polyethylene terephthalate high shrinkage drawn yarn. The high shrinkage stretched yarn is fed at a yarn speed of 3
10 [m / min], relaxation rate 45 [%], non-contact type heater length 230 [mm], heater temperature 260 [° C],
Relaxation heat treatment, SHD at 30den / 24fil-
A heat-stretched yarn was obtained that was substantially immiscible with 4.5% of the cationic dye. DT was 3.0 [g / den]. 30 d with the above-mentioned heat-extended yarn and semi-dal polyethylene terephthalate
SHD is 15.0 [%] at en / 6 fill, and DT is 5.
2 [g / d] high shrinkage drawn yarn and cationic dye dyeable polyester, SHD 9.0%, DT 3.7
[G / den], three kinds of 50-den / 24-fil of d-shrink yarns were subjected to a fluid entanglement treatment with an interlacer nozzle in a aligned state, and a 110-den / 48-fil and a Di of 45 were used.
[Q / m] of polyester multifilament composite yarn was obtained. The composite yarn was twisted at 1600 T / m, heat-set at 70 ° C. for 40 minutes, and used for warp and weft to obtain a twill fabric. After relaxing and presetting, alkali treatment was carried out to a weight loss rate of 18%, and the mixture was dyed with a liquid jet dyeing machine using both a disperse dye and a cationic dye to perform a final set. The dyed product has a favorable texture with a swelling feeling, a soft feeling, and a firm feeling, exhibits a good marbled appearance similar to a top dyed wool fabric, and has no problem with the strength of the fabric. Was.

Example 2 A dyed product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heat-extended yarn was changed to a cationic dyeable polyester. The SHD of the heat-extended yarn was -4.5 [%], and the DT was 2.7 [g / d].
en]. Regarding the texture, the appearance was satisfactory and the appearance was also favorable.

Example 3 Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the high shrinkage stretched yarn of Example 1 was changed to a polyester dyeable cationic dye and having a DT of 4.3 g / den. A processing counter was obtained. The marbled appearance was similar to that of Example 1 and was excellent in texture.

Example 4 In the production process of the thermally stretched yarn of Example 1, the relaxation rate during the relaxation heat treatment was set to 30%, and the SHD was performed at 27 den / 24 fil.
Was -2.0 [%] and DT was 3.6 [g / den]. afterwards,
The same cationic dye dyeable polyester medium shrinkable yarn as in Example 1 and 50 den / 24fil polyethylene terephthalate, thick and thin yarn, 15% SHD and D
A composite yarn having a T of 4.2 [g / den] was obtained.
Although the difference in DT was 0.6 [g / den], the appearance of the frosted tone of the thick and thin yarn was included, and the finished product was relatively good.

Example 5 The shrinkage yarn in the cationic dyeable polyester of Example 1 was changed to 300 den / 108 fil, and 360 de
A composite yarn of n / 132fil was obtained. The denier mixture ratio between the heat-stretched yarn and the high shrinkage yarn was 8.3%. The number of actual twists was set to 800 T / m, and the weaving density was adjusted to obtain a dyed product. Although the marbling-like appearance was slightly inferior to that of Example 1, the weight loss rate was suppressed to 8%, so that there was no major problem in the strength of the fabric, and a thick fabric having a favorable texture was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 Instead of the heat-stretched yarn of Example 1, a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal low-shrinkage stretched yarn having an SHD of 3% was used.
A dyeing finish was obtained. The processing anti-swelling,
It was not satisfactory.

Comparative Example 2 Two heat-extended yarns of Example 1 and one heat-extended yarn of cationic dyeable polyester of Example 3 were combined. Although the dyeing treatment was soft, it was not very favorable because of lack of tension and poor dyeing difference. In addition, there was a problem of insufficient strength after dyeing.

Comparative Example 3 In the compounding step of Example 1, this was used without interlacing. Many filament cracks occurred in the pan winding process before twisting, and the post-processability was poor, and the greige was not satisfactorily obtained.

[0035]

The polyester multifilament composite yarn of the present invention has a soft and swelling feel and a superior appearance effect of top-dyed wool as compared with the conventional different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. is there. In addition, the passability of the subsequent process is also good, and even during the dyeing process, even if the alkali weight reduction process,
It is a novel material that can be used for living materials such as automobile interior materials in addition to women's clothing and men's clothing without any problem in fabric strength.

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Claims (5)

(57) [Claims] 1. A composite yarn comprising three or more types of polyester multifilaments, wherein the polyester yarn includes a dyeable polyester multifilament for a cationic dye and a polyester dye substantially non-stainable for a cationic dye. A polyester multifilament entangled composite yarn comprising a multifilament satisfying at least the following (1) to (5) and having a degree of entanglement [Di] of 5 to 100 / m. SHD (A) [%] ≦ 0 (1) SHD (B) [%]> 0 (2) SHD (B) [%] − SHD (A) [%] ≧ 5.0 (3) DT (B) [G / den] ≧ 4.0 (4) Polyester multifilament A: Polyester multifilament substantially instable to cationic dyes (5) However, SHD (A) is a polyester multifilament constituting a composite yarn. 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage [%] of A,
SHD (B) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn at 160 ° C., DT
(B) shows the breaking strength [g / den] of the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn. 2. The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester multifilament B constituting the composite yarn is a polyester multifilament substantially immiscible with a cationic dye. 3. Polyester multifilament A and polyester multifilament B constituting a composite yarn
Is a polyester multifilament which is substantially insoluble in cationic dyes, and the other polyester multifilaments C constituting the composite yarn are polyester multifilaments which are dyeable in cationic dyes. The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to the above. 4. The breaking strength of each of the polyester multifilaments A and B constituting the composite yarn is DT (A) [g
/ Den] and DT (B) [g / den],
The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the following formula (6) is satisfied. DT (B) [g / den] -DT (A) [g / den] ≧ 1.0 (6) 5. The polyester multifilament composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the denier of each of the three or more polyester multifilaments constituting the composite yarn is 10% or more of the denier of the composite yarn. Article.