KR980009545A - Process for producing pleochroism polyester yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester yarn having a two-tone effect without a blending process and having a feel and appearance similar to that of a natural hemp while weaving.

The present invention relates to a process for producing a polyester yarn by mixing and spinning a common polyester spinning stock solution and a catch-on dye spinning polyester spinning stock solution in the same spinneret hole and stretching, twisting, heat treating and spinning the spinning yarn , And these yarns are used as warp and / or weft yarns to produce polyester fabrics having excellent feel and appearance.

The polyester spinning stock solution is continuously supplied to the spinning and detaching hall at a constant amount, and the catch spinning dye spinning spinning polyester spinning solution is supplied irregularly while the inflow amount thereof is increased or decreased. The fineness of the mixed-cast polyester is 50 to 450 denier, and the island ratio [B / (A + B)] of the catch-on dyeable polyester yarn to the total fineness of the mixed-cast polyester is 10% <B / (A + B) x 100 &lt; 40%, and the difference DE between the maximum value and the maximum value of these island ratios is 7% &lt;

The average distance (F) of repeating the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion of the catch-on dye-donor polyester spinning stock solution on the polyester source after stretching is 20 cm <F <50 cm.

Description

Process for producing pleochroism polyester yarn

The present invention relates to a method for producing a pleochroism polyester yarn excellent in two-tone effect and having a tactile appearance and appearance similar to that of natural hemp.

More specifically, a plain polyester spinning stock solution and a catch-on-dye spinning polyester spinning solution are supplied to the same spinneret hole and mixed and radiated, followed by stretching and false twisting to obtain a pleochroism polyester yarn And then using these fabrics as warp and / or weft yarns to produce polyester fabrics having excellent tactile properties and appearance.

Polyester fabrics having a feel and appearance similar to natural hemp are widely used for applications such as summer clothing. Until now, as a method of producing a polyester fabric having a feel and appearance similar to that of natural horses, unstretched polyester yarns are stretched at a low temperature and a low expansion ratio to change the physical properties and cross-sectional area in the length direction of the yarn, After the formed drawn yarn was produced and subjected to a strong twist, these were used as warp and / or weft fabrics.

Since this method is not a nodule by strangeness (stricky), it is not suitable for producing a fabric having a high-quality natural and smooth surface effect.

As another method, fabrics were produced by using warp and / or weft yarn produced by combining or fusing general polyester yarn and catch-on dye-dyeable polyester yarn. However, when the yarn is dyed, the twe-tone effect of the fabric is insignificant, and when the dyed yarn is mixed, uniform foaming is difficult and appearance is not clear, so that it is difficult to express the hue. It is impossible to obtain a natural surface effect by distributing different colors uniformly in the fabric dyeing. Also, yarn production costs are expensive because the yarn must be subjected to a fusing process.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a two-tone effect, a high-quality natural and soft surface effect, and a tactile feeling such as a natural hairs in manufacturing a fabric by omitting the fusing process so as to solve the above- And a method of producing a pleochroism polyester yarn having an appearance.

The present invention relates to a process for producing a polyester yarn, which comprises the steps of feeding a plain polyester spinning stock solution and a cationic dye and fluorine-containing polyester spinning stock to the same spinneret hole, mixing and spinning the spinneret, and then subjecting the spinning yarn to stretching and false twisting To a process for producing a pleochroism polyester yarn. The present invention also relates to a method for producing polyester fabrics such as natural hides by using these yarns as warp and / or weft.

The present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention is characterized in that a uniform amount of a general polyester spinning stock solution is continuously supplied to the same spinneret hole and at the same time, the spinning spinning solution of a cationic dye and a fluorine-containing polyester spinneress is irregularly supplied and decreased in inflow amount, mixed and spun, (False Twisting) to produce a pleochroism polyester yarn. The present invention also relates to a method for producing a polyester fabric excellent in touch and appearance by weaving the produced yarn using warp and / or weft.

That is, the present invention employs a mixed spinning method in which two types of polyester spinning raw fluids having different dyeing dyes are introduced into the same spinneret holes, thereby randomly mixing two kinds of polymers in the length direction of the yarn.

In order to mix the two radically polymerized polymers irregularly in the length direction of the yarn, the regular polyester spinning stock solution is continuously supplied in a predetermined amount, and the catching dye spinning polyester spinning spinning solution is supplied irregularly while increasing or decreasing the inflow amount thereof .

More specifically, the catch-on dye dye-transferable polyester spinning stock solution and the general spinning spinning spinning solution are supplied to the same spinneret hole and mixed and radiated so as to satisfy the following conditions.

10% &lt; B / (A + B) x 100 &lt; 40%

50 denier? C? 450 denier

7% &lt; D-E &lt; 30%

20 cm <F <50 cm

A is the fineness (denier) of the ordinary polyester yarn, B is the fineness (denier) of the catch-on dye-dyeable polyester yarn, C is the total fineness (denier) of the mixed yarn of polyester yarn, (%) Of the catch-on dye dyestuff polyester yarn to the total fineness of the polyester yarn, E is the minimum isodomain of the catch-on dye dyestuff polyester yarn to the total fineness of the mixed yarn of polyester yarn (%), And F is the average distance (cm) in which the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion of the flame-retardant polyester spinning stock are repeated one time on the polyester yarn after stretching.

First, the influent amount of the catch-on dye-and-phosphate polyester spinning solution is the sum of the fineness (B) ratio [B / (A + B) of the catch-on dye dyeable polyester yarn to the total fineness ) × 100] is adjusted so that 10% <B / (A + B) × 100 <40%. If it is 10% or less, the effect of dichroism is reduced. If it is 40% or more, the productivity of production is poor.

In addition, the maximum inflow and the minimum inflow of the catch-on dye spinning polyester spinning solution are the maximum and minimum islands (E) and maximum islands (E) of the catch-on dye-dyeable polyester yarn to the total fineness of the mixed- (DE) is 7% <DE <30%. When the content is less than 7%, the occurrence of streaking (streaky) is insignificant, and when it is more than 30%, the productivity is deteriorated due to a problem in the polymer flow path in the spinning process.

Also, in irregularly increasing or decreasing the inflow amount of the catch-on dye-and-phosphorus polyester spinning stock solution, the average cycle from the point of time when the maximum amount is started to the point when the least amount of the inflow is completed is, on the mixed polyester source after stretching The average distance (F) of repeating the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion of the catch-on dye fluorophilic polyester spinning stock solution once is adjusted to be 20 cm <F <50 cm. When the diameter is less than 20 cm, yarn production is difficult. When the diameter is more than 50 cm, the nodule (strike) expression is weakened on the fabric.

Under the conditions described above, the common polyester spinning stock solution and the catch-dye spinning polyester spinning spinning solution introduced into the same spinneret hole are mixed and radiated through the same spinneret hole.

The fineness of the mixed yarn of polyester yarn is 50 to 450 denier. Less than 50 denier lowers the productivity of the yarn, and when it is thicker than 450 denier it is suitable for fabrics since the fineness is large.

The spinning speed during spinning is preferably 1,200 to 4,000 m / min

The polyester yarn mixed and radiated under the above conditions is subsequently stretched at a low temperature at a low stretching ratio or under a normal stretching condition in the next step. In the case of stretching at a low temperature and a low stretching ratio, the elongation of the stretching yarn is stretched to a range of 50 to 150%. When stretching is performed under normal stretching conditions, the elongation of the stretching yarn is elongated to be in the range of 30 to 40%. In general, the draw ratio is 1.4 to 3.3 times

After mixing, the stretched polyester yarn is subjected to false twisting. The false twisting process consists of twisting, heat treatment, and solidification stages. When such a step is performed, a crimp is formed on the yarn, and a partial fusion occurs between the filaments of the yarn by the heat treatment process.

The partial fusion between the filaments of the yarn imparts tactile feel to the fabric after the weaving. The temperature of the heat treatment is preferably 180 to 250 캜.

When a false twisting process composed of the twisting, heat treatment, and solidification steps described above is performed, a crimp is formed on the thin portion of the polyester yarn, and a thick partial fusion occurs.

A polyester yarn produced by a mixed spinning, stretching and false twisting process is given an appropriate twist, and these yarns are used as warp and / or weft yarns to produce a fabric

The polyester fabric of the present invention is excellent in dichroism, that is, a two-tone effect, and has a touch and appearance similar to polishing of a high-quality natural and soft surface effect. In addition, since the pleochroic polyester yarn of the present invention is produced without a blending process, manufacturing cost is reduced.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples and comparative examples. However, the present invention is not limited by Examples and Comparative Examples.

[Example 1]

In the case of introducing the general polyester spinning stock solution and the catch-dye spinning polyester spinning stock solution into the same spinneret hole such that the total spin ratio is 70% / 30%, the spinning spinning solution for general polyester is continuously supplied in a predetermined amount, The flame-retardant polyester spinning solution was supplied irregularly while increasing or decreasing the inflow amount thereof. At this time, the maximum inflow amount of the catch-on dye-dyeable polyester spinning solution was adjusted to 40 wt%, and the maximum inflow amount was adjusted to 15 wt%. In addition, the inflow and outflow amount of the catch-on dye-borne phosphate spinning solution was adjusted so that the one-time average distance between the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion on the mixed polyester yarn after stretching was maintained at 30 cm. These spinning stocks supplied to the same spinneret hole were spinned at a spinning speed of 1,350 m / min and then stretched at a temperature of 83 ° C at a draw ratio of 2.9 times.

The stretched polyester yarns were twisted at 1,900 times per meter, heat-set at a temperature of 200 DEG C, and were then melted and wound.

The polyester yarn fineness after winding was 400 denier.

The rolled polyester yarn was again twisted 900 times per meter and these yarns were used as warps and wefts to produce a flat fabric with an oblique density of 86 yarns / inch and a weft density of 49 yarns / inch and was dyed with disperse and catch dyes To prepare a polyester fabric.

[Example 2]

In the same spinneret hole, in order to flow the raw stock solution of the albumin polyester and the raw spinning solution of the keratin dye and the salt of the polyester into a solution having a total fineness ratio of 90% / 10%, a regular polyester spinning stock solution was continuously fed in a predetermined amount, The casting polyester spinning solution was irregularly increased or decreased in its inflow amount. At this time, the maximum inflow amount of the catch-on dye-dyeable polyester fiber spinning solution was adjusted to 30 wt% and the minimum inflow amount was adjusted to 20 wt%. In addition, the inflow volume increase / decrease cycle of the catch-on dye-borne phosphate spinning solution was adjusted so that the one-time average distance of the maximum inflow portion on the mixed polyester yarn after stretching was maintained at 25 cm. These spinning liquids fed to the same spinneret hole were spinning at a spinning speed of 1,350 m / min and then stretched at a temperature of 75 ° C at 1,5 times the spinning ratio.

The stretched polyester yarn was twisted at 1,800 cycles per meter, thermally fixed at a temperature of 210 占 폚, and then subjected to coiling and winding.

The polyester yarn fineness after winding was 150 denier.

Woven polyester yarns were again twisted at 1800 twists per yarn and these yarns were used as warps and wefts to produce flat fabrics with a warp density of 120 yarns / inch and a weft density of 60 yarns / inch, To prepare a polyester fabric.

[Comparative Example 1]

In comparison with Example 1, the general polyester spinning stock solution and the catch-on dye spinning polyester spinning spinning solution were fed so that the total fineness ratio became 50% / 50%, and the maximum inflow amount of the catch-on dye-phosphorous polyester spinning solution was 75 wt% %, And the lowest inflow was changed to 35 wt%, the polyester fabric was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 2]

In comparison with Example 1, the general polyester spinning stock solution and the catch-on dye spinning polyester spinning spinning solution were fed so that the total fineness ratio was 95% / 5%, and the maximum inflow amount of the catch-on dye spinning polyester spinning solution was 9 wt. %, And the lowest inflow amount was 3% by weight, the polyester fabric was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1.

[Comparative Example 3]

Compared with Example 1, adjust the inflow volume change period of the catch-on dye-based dye-sensitized polyester liquor to maintain a one-time average distance of 80 cm between the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion on the mixed polyester source after stretching The polyester fabric was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1, The softness (sensory test), appearance and workability of the polyester fabric prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were evaluated.

Here, the softness evaluation was evaluated flexibly using the KN-101-WINTER conversion formula of the Kawasan system. The results are classified into five grades. The higher the grade, the better the softness.

The evaluation results are as follows.

Claims (6)

A uniform amount of the usual polyester spinning stock solution is continuously fed to the same spinneret hole, and at the same time, the spinning spinning solution of the catch-on dye spinning polyester is supplied in an irregular manner so that the inflow amount thereof is increased or decreased. Wherein the polyester resin is a polyester resin. The method for producing a pleochroism polyester yarn according to claim 1, wherein the flocking solution of the albumin polyester and the catch-on fluorinated polyester bismuth solution are supplied to the same spinneret hole under the following conditions and mixed and radiated. 10% &lt; B / (A + B) x 100 &lt; 40% 50 denier? C? 450 denier 7% &lt; D-E &lt; 30% 20 cm <F <50 cm A is the fineness (denier) of the Alban polyester yarn, B is the fineness (denier) of the catch-on dye-dyeable polyester yarn, C is the total fineness (denier) of the mixed yarn of polyester yarn, (%) Of the catch-on dye dyestuff polyester yarn to the total fineness of the polyester yarn, E is the minimum isodomain of the catch-on dye dyestuff polyester yarn to the total fineness of the mixed yarn of polyester yarn (%), And F is the average distance (cm) that the maximum inflow portion and the minimum inflow portion of the catch-on dye-dyeable fluorine-containing polyester spinning solution repeat once on the polyester yarn after stretching. The method according to claim 1, wherein the false twisting process comprises twisting, heat treating, and solidifying to partially fuse the yarn. The manufacturing method of a pleochroism polyester yarn according to claim 1, wherein the spinning speed is in the range of 1,200 to 1,40 m / min. 3. The method for producing a pleochroism polyester yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the heat treatment temperature is 180 to 250 캜. Item (1) The process for producing a polyester fabric having excellent tactile appearance and appearance, which is characterized by a warp and / or weft yarn using polychromatic polyester yarns. ※ Note: It is disclosed by the contents of the first application.