JPH11200167A - Polyester partially fused yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a polyester partially fused yarn capable of providing soft woven or knitted fabric differently dyed and colored, excellent in grandrelle effect and bulkiness and having spun-like touch feeling and crispiness when the yarn is woven or knitted and dyed. SOLUTION: This fused yarn is a multifilament crimped yarn having thin and thick spot in fiber axial direction. A thick part and thin part are alternately formed in random pitch in the multifilament crimped yarn and length ratio of the thick part to the thin part exists in 1:1 to 1:3 and the thick part and the thin part exists in a range of 20-100/m. S twist or Z twist high twist fused part in which at least one or more numbers of thick part filament are fused exist in >=20 numbers/m and a ratio of the high twist fused part is 5-50% based on total yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a partially fused polyester yarn which, when knitted and woven and dyed, becomes a fabric having a spanning feeling with a heather pattern effect, a bulkiness and a crisp feeling.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a method of producing a processed yarn having a heather pattern effect and a color effect, for example, a multifilament yarn dyeable to an ionic dye and a multifilament yarn non-stainable to an ionic dye are air-entangled. After that, a method of performing false twisting (for example, JP-A-48-61758) or a method of performing false twisting on the two yarns and then air-entangled (for example, JP-A-48-63048) However, since the air entanglement treatment is performed in any of the methods, the obtained processed yarn is bundled and has poor bulkiness.

In order to improve the bulkiness of the processed yarn obtained by the above method, the degree of convergence of the yarn is reduced.
Although the bulkiness is improved, the mixing between these metachromatic filaments becomes poor. For this reason, when the obtained processed yarn was dyed into a woven fabric, a sink mark-like streak occurred, and it was not possible to obtain a heather pattern effect or a deep color tone effect.

On the other hand, a woven or knitted fabric with a fine heather pattern is obtained from an untwisted yarn of alternately twisted S and Z obtained by subjecting a multifilament yarn composed of filaments having different dyeing properties to fusion false twisting. (For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 56-43133), but have the drawback that the feel is hard and the cloth feels too strong and does not bulge.

Further, either a polyester filament A which is dyeable with an ionic dye or a polyester filament B which is non-stainable with an ionic dye is made of yarns A and B which include irregular undrawn portions. An example of twisted yarn is disclosed in
As described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-132356, this textured yarn can only impart a marbling color effect and a texture effect of a crimped yarn to a fabric, and the fine dyeing and heterocoloring of the present invention are aimed at. It was not possible to give a heather-like effect of a simple pattern and a span-like texture with a sharp feeling.

[0006]

The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks and to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a soft and crisp span-like texture which is excellent in the effect of heat-resisting different colors and colors and has high bulkiness. It is an object of the present invention to provide a partially fused polyester yarn.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention.

That is, the present invention relates to a multifilament crimped yarn having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, wherein the multifilament crimped yarn has thick portions and details alternately formed at a random pitch. , The ratio of length to thick part is 1: 1
~ 1: 3, thick and fine details are present in the range of 20 to 100 pieces / m, and at least one or more thick filaments are fused at least at one or more S or Z-twisted strong-twisted fusion parts at 20 pieces / m m, and the proportion of the strongly twisted fused portion is 5 to 50% of the entire yarn.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0010] In the partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention, each of the filaments constituting the yarn has irregular large and thin spots and crimps in the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction). Each of them also has a thick portion mainly constituted by a thick portion of each filament and a detail mainly constituted by a detail of each filament in the fiber axis direction. Then, the thick portion of the crimped filament has low orientation and low crystallinity as compared with the details, so that it is considered that there are many dye-dyed seats, and the thick portion is deeply dyed. Therefore, when dyed, the thick part becomes a deeply dyed part and the detail becomes a lightly dyed part, and the thick part and the detail are alternately formed in the fiber axis direction.

[0011] In the case where the constituent filament is a hetero-dyed mixed yarn composed of a polyester crimped yarn immiscible with an ionic dye and a polyester crimped yarn dyeable with an ionic dye, the individual filaments are formed in the same manner as described above. It has irregular thick and thin spots, and alternately has deeply dyed and lightly dyed portions, and can also impart a hue difference and a different color effect due to the mixing of heterochromatic filaments. As described above, since there is a random difference in light and shade dyeing properties due to the thick and thin spots, it is possible to effectively exhibit the heather effect and the multicolor effect.

According to the present invention, it is possible to clearly express the heather effect by appropriately setting the frequency of occurrence of the thick and thin spots and the length ratio of the thick and thin spots. That is, the ratio of the length of the thick portion to the detail of the multifilament yarn is 1: 1 to 1: 3.
It is necessary to set the number of thick portions and details to 20 to 100 / m. The length ratio of thick (dark) to detail (light) is 1: 1
By setting the ratio to １ ： 1: 3, the balance of the shading pattern is maintained, and the expression of the heather tone becomes possible. If the details are too long with respect to the thick part, the balance of the light and shade pattern will be lost, and it will be unfavorable because it will have a faint or marbling tone and poor expression of the heather tone.

In addition, the frequency of occurrence of the thick part and the detail is 20 to 10
By setting the number to 0 pieces / m, it is possible to express a heather according to demand from a coarse heather to a fine heather. If the frequency of occurrence of the thick part and the detail is less than 20 pieces / m, it becomes unfavorable because it deviates from the range of the heather and gives a frosty or marbling tone. In addition, 100 pieces / m
If it exceeds, the heather pitch becomes too fine, and clear heather expression cannot be performed, which is not preferable.

Next, the partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention is a fused yarn having crimps, and each filament is provided with a crimp. Such a polyester partially fused yarn can be obtained by performing false twist crimping while preferentially fusing the thick portion. The yarn to which the filament is fused and crimped at the same time by the false twist crimping process is twisted by false twist, heat fixation and untwisting while the thick part and detail of each filament are mixed at the time of false twist. Due to the operation, the thick part is twisted and deformed more than the details, and the filament length becomes longer. As a result, the resulting crimped yarn has a difference in yarn length between the filaments. It becomes highly air-permeable, and it is possible to impart a swelling effect to the obtained woven or knitted fabric in addition to the heather effect.

Further, in the polyester partially fused yarn of the present invention, the S or Z twisted strongly twisted fused portion where at least one portion of the thick filament is fused is at least 20 filaments / m, preferably at least 100 filaments. m or less, and the proportion of the strongly twisted fused portion must be 5 to 50% of the entire yarn.
And the crimp of each filament and the presence of the above-mentioned strong twist fusion part can give soft crispness to the obtained woven or knitted fabric.

If the number of the strongly twisted fused portions is less than 20 pieces / m or the ratio of the strongly twisted fused portions is less than 5% with respect to the entire yarn, even if thick and light shade patterns are mixed. In the fabric after knitting, weaving, and dyeing, the strongly twisted and fused portion looks like a stripe-like streak, and not only is the quality reduced, but also a soft, sharp feeling cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the ratio of the strongly twisted and fused portion exceeds 50% of the entire yarn, the swelling of the yarn becomes poor, and the sharpness becomes too strong, and the soft sharpness that the present invention is directed to decreases. Absent.

Next, as a production example of the partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention, a method using a heterochromatic mixed fiber yarn will be described.

First, a polyester dyeable to an ionic dye and a polyester dyeable to an ionic dye are supplied from different discharge holes of the same nozzle pack to 2500 to 50%.
Discharged at a high speed of 00 m / min, the spun ionic dye dyeable polyester filaments and the ionic dye non-stainable polyester filaments were aligned and rolled up in the same package. To obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn.

Next, the highly oriented undrawn yarn is subjected to a heat treatment for shrinkage of 50% or more at a temperature of 180 ° C. or less, and then 1.
Cold-drawing at a magnification of 5 times or more, and a false twisting heater temperature of 1
80 ° C or higher, number of false twists (15000 to 30000) / D
^{Under the condition of 1/2} (T / M) (where D is the fineness after false twist crimping: denier), the polyester partially fused yarn of the present invention is subjected to false twist crimping with almost no stretching. Obtainable.

Further, since the strongly twisted welded portion and the thick and thin spots are affected by the shrinkage rate during the shrinkage heat treatment, the cold stretching ratio, and the false twisting temperature among the above-mentioned production conditions, these elements are set in an appropriate range. By setting to, control can be performed so as to satisfy the present invention.

The method for producing the partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention is not limited to the above method. For example, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn dyeable to an ionic dye wound into a separate package may be used. A polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn, which is immiscible with the ionic dye, may be aligned and supplied to the shrinkage heat treatment step.

The polyester dyeable to the ionic dye of the mixed dyeing yarn used for obtaining the partially fused yarn of the polyester of the present invention is defined as having a sulfonate group in the form of a metal salt at the polyester main chain or at the terminal. It is a polyester which can be dyed with an ionic dye such as a cationic dye, such as a polyester having improved dyeability. On the other hand, the polyester which is immiscible with the ionic dye is a polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate which has no ionic dye-dyeing seat in the molecule. The cross-sectional shape of these two polyester filaments may be any cross-section such as a round cross-section, various modified cross-sections, and a hollow cross-section.

[0023]

The polyester partially fused yarn of the present invention has thick and thin spots alternately and randomly in the fiber axis direction, and sets the ratio of the length of the thick part to the detail and the frequency of the thick part and the detail within a specific range. By doing so, a clear heather effect can be imparted to the cloth obtained by knitting, weaving and dyeing from coarse heather to fine heather. In addition, the ratio of the number of S or Z strong-twisted fused portions where at least one or more thick filaments are fused and the ratio of the length of the strongly-twisted fused portion to the entire yarn is set within a specific range. As a result, it is possible to impart a swelling soft crispness to the woven or knitted fabric.

[0024]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 Using a 220d / 48f highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by spinning polyethylene terephthalate at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min, shrink heat treatment, cold drawing and false twist crimping under the processing conditions shown in Table 1. Processing was performed to obtain a partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention. Table 1 also shows the properties of the obtained partially fused yarn.

[0026]

[Table 1]

A warp density of 87 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft yarn density of 82 yarns / 2.
Weaved with a 54 cm 2/2 twill texture. When the obtained greige was dyed blue with a disperse dye, Dynix Blue U-SE (manufactured by Dystar Japan), the thick part of the polyester partially fused yarn was colored deep blue and the details were pale blue.
A woven fabric with a light-gray pattern heather, a soft crispness due to fusion of the thick part, and an extremely spun-like feel was obtained.

Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate and a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5% by mole of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component were spun at a spinning speed of 35 from different discharge holes of the same nozzle pack.
Spun at 00m / min, polyethylene terephthalate 15
A highly oriented undrawn yarn of uniform heterochromatic mixed fiber composed of 0d / 36f and the copolyester 75d / 24f was obtained.
Using this highly oriented undrawn yarn, shrinkage heat treatment, cold drawing and false twist crimping were performed in a series of steps under the processing conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a partially fused polyester yarn of the present invention.

Using the obtained polyester partially-fused yarn, weaving is performed under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the obtained greige fabric is dyed with a cationic dye Aizenka Tiron Blue CD-FBLH (manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.). The thick part of the copolyester filaments dyeable to cationic dyes was colored dark blue and the details were pale blue. Next, this woven fabric is used as a disperse dye dinic thread U-SE (manufactured by Dystar Japan).
As a result, the thick part of the polyethylene terephthalate filament was colored dark red and the details were pale red, and blue and red were mixed together. Further, the color tone seemed to be a deep wine color system at first glance, and a favorable heterochromatic multicolor effect was obtained. Furthermore, the woven fabric had a swelling and a soft crispness.

Comparative Example 1 Using the same highly oriented undrawn yarn of 220 d / 48 f as in Example 1, subjected to shrinkage heat treatment, cold drawing and false twist crimping under the processing conditions shown in Table 1, and then obtained. Weaving and dyeing were performed using the partially fused yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1.

In the obtained woven fabric, the ratio of the length of the thick part (dark part) to the detail (light part) was reversed, and the ratio of the dark part became high. In addition to the half-toning effect and the large proportion of strongly twisted and fused parts, the sharpness was too strong, far from the soft sharpness aimed at by the present invention.

[0032]

According to the present invention, when the partially fused yarn of the present invention is knitted, woven or dyed, the difference in hue due to the difference in dyeing properties and the difference in shading due to unevenness in the thickness are present at random, and a clear hetero-dyeing is obtained. Thus, it is possible to obtain a cloth having a different color heather effect. In addition, the thick twisted and welded portion of the thick portion makes it possible to impart a spun-like feel that is excellent in volume and soft and has a sharp feeling.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A multi-filament crimped yarn having thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction, wherein said multi-filament crimped yarn has thick portions and details alternately formed at a random pitch. S or Z in which the length ratio of the detail is in the range of 1: 1 to 1: 3, the thick portion and the detail in the range of 20 to 100 / m, and at least one or more of the filaments of the thick portion are fused.
A partially fused polyester yarn comprising 20 or more twisted and strongly twisted portions, and the ratio of the strongly twisted and fused portions is 5 to 50% of the entire yarn. 2. The partially fused polyester filament according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament crimped yarn comprises a polyester crimped filament dyeable to an ionic dye and a polyester crimped filament non-stainable to an ionic dye. Yarn.