CN110820127A - Double-layer real silk crepe and production method thereof - Google Patents
Double-layer real silk crepe and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN110820127A CN110820127A CN201911196283.0A CN201911196283A CN110820127A CN 110820127 A CN110820127 A CN 110820127A CN 201911196283 A CN201911196283 A CN 201911196283A CN 110820127 A CN110820127 A CN 110820127A
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title abstract description 12
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 77
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 210000003462 vein Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 42
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 201000004624 Dermatitis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002356 single layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000638 solvent extraction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
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Abstract
The invention discloses a double-layer silk crepe and a production method thereof, wherein the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement weave circulation, the flat weave structure comprises a weave point area and a vein relaxing area, the fabric positioned in the vein relaxing area comprises an upper layer and a lower layer, and the fabric positioned in the weave point area is formed into a layer of fabric by interweaving the upper layer and the lower layer; the production method comprises the following characteristics: 1) weaving to obtain blank silk; 2) degumming; 3) printing or dyeing; 4) rinsing in water; 5) pre-shrinking; 6) and (6) shaping. The raw material of the invention is 100% of real silk, and the fabric has a convex wrinkle feeling by utilizing the difference of different retractility of the upper layer bracket and the lower layer bracket; the difference of the strong twist and the low twist is utilized to cause the difference of the gloss feeling; the comfort is strong.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of fabrics, in particular to a double-layer real silk crepe and a production method thereof.
Background
The real silk fabric is very popular with people because of the soft characteristic of real silk. Especially 100% real silk clothes, has high grade and good skin-friendly property, and is particularly popular. However, the fabric made of 100% of real silk has a defect that although the fabric is smooth, the elasticity is insufficient, and the single-layer fabric cannot form a convex wrinkle feeling. The multi-layer fabric can form a convex wrinkle feeling in combination, but the later processing process is complex, and the production is not facilitated. And the texture of the fabric is single, so that the characteristics of the same fabric in both hand feeling and vision cannot be realized.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides a double-layered real-silk crepe and a method for producing the same.
The technical scheme of the invention is that the double-layer real silk crepe is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement weave circulation, the flat weave structure comprises a weaving point area and a vein relaxing area, the fabric positioned in the vein relaxing area comprises an upper layer and a lower layer, the upper layer and the lower layer are two layers of fabric which are separated and independent, and the fabric positioned in the weaving point area is a layer of fabric formed by interweaving the upper layer and the lower layer; the weave structures of the upper layer and the lower layer in the vein relaxing area are both plain weave structures, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and warp yarns and weft yarns are all 100% of real silk.
Preferably, the number of the weft yarns in the interlacing point area is 8-24, and the number of the weft yarns in the unblocking area is 24-64.
Preferably, the warp yarns of the fabric comprise A, B, and the drawing sequence of the fabric, namely the arrangement sequence of the warp yarns in each yarn arrangement weave circulating unit is as follows: one yarn A and one yarn B are arranged in a staggered mode, and the weft yarns of the fabric are all the yarn C.
As a further preferred, the A, B warp yarn sizes are as follows:
3/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting three steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and the twisting is intensified;
2/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting two steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and low twisting is added.
More preferably, the specification of the yarn C is 1/20/22D/S steam filature, namely, the warp is formed by twisting steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and middle twisting is added.
As a further preferred example, each of the flat weave structures includes 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and the 68 weft yarns form a yarn arrangement weave loop.
As a further preferable mode, the weave structure of the fabric comprises eight fifty-top-eighteen warp surface weaves from left to right, eight eighteen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves, twenty fifty-top-seventeen warp surface weaves and twenty seventeen-top-fifty-one weft surface weaves, wherein the eight fifty-top-eighteen warp surface weaves and the eight eighteen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves are arranged in a staggered mode, and the twenty fifty-top-seventeen warp surface weaves and the twenty seventeen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves are arranged in a staggered mode; in the vein relaxing zone, the odd numbered warps and the odd numbered wefts are interwoven to form an upper layer of the fabric, and the even numbered warps and the even numbered wefts are interwoven to form a lower layer of the fabric; in the interlacing point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are interlaced together to form an interlacing area.
As a further preferred, the weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns with 68 weft yarns, wherein the weave points on the first warp yarn from left to right are the upper and lower three warp yarns, the lower and upper three warp yarns, the upper and lower three warp yarns, the lower and upper three warp yarns, the upper and lower three warp yarns, the lower and lower three warp yarns, the upper and the lower and the upper and lower three warp yarns, the upper and the lower and the upper and the The weave points on the fourth warp yarn are the weave points on the third, next, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, second, upper, third, lower, second, upper, third, upper, second, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, second, third, upper, third, lower; the weave points on the seventeenth warp yarn are the upper, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth Three next, three next; the repeat of the stitch points of the twenty-first to fifty-sixth warp yarns repeats the stitch points on the seventeenth to twenty-fourth yarns.
Preferably, the finished weight of the fabric is 13 +/-0.5 m/m.
The production method of the double-layer real silk crepe comprises the following technical characteristics:
1) adopting the factory silk as a raw material, and weaving the raw material into blank silk by using a rapier loom; when a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the palm threading of the warp yarns is carried out by adopting a twelve-palm-section parallel threading method, the palm threading of the warp yarns in the interweaving area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 9 th to the 12 th palm in sequence from left to right, and the palm threading of the warp yarns in the unblocking area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 1 st to the 8 th palm in sequence from left to right; in the weaving process by adopting a rapier loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50 +/-5 g; the shrinkage of the finished product silk is 6.12 +/-0.2%.
2) Degumming the blank silk;
3) printing or dyeing processes;
4) rinsing in water with the water temperature of 60 +/-5 ℃;
5) pre-shrinking the blank silk, wherein the pressure adopted during pre-shrinking is 3-7 kg of vapor pressure, and the speed is 3-7 m per minute;
6) after pre-shrinking, carrying out a shaping process at the shaping temperature of 140 ℃ and 175 ℃ at the speed of 7-13 meters per minute;
7) and (3) drying at the temperature of 90-95 ℃ for 5 minutes.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the silk fabric is a 100% silk fabric, the components of the silk fabric are single, the comfortableness and the skin affinity of the silk fabric are guaranteed, meanwhile, an interweaving point area and a vein relaxing area are formed through arrangement of an organizational structure, the silk fabric is divided into an upper layer and a lower layer in the vein relaxing area, the silk fabric is interwoven together in the interweaving point area to form a layer of silk fabric, and the cloth surface forms a convex wrinkle feeling (bubble wrinkle shape) by utilizing different elasticity differences between the upper layer and the lower layer. The difference of the two surfaces of the fabric in gloss sense is caused by the difference of the strong twisting and the low twisting, one surface is a matte surface, and the other surface is a bright surface. The whole fabric is soft and comfortable in hand feeling, has elasticity, and is strong in texture stereo.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the weave structure and yarn arrangement of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a cross-palm view of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is an enlarged schematic view of the rows 35-68 of the inventive tissue structure.
FIG. 4 is an enlarged schematic view of rows 1-34 of the organizational structure of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention is further explained below with reference to the drawings and examples.
As shown in the figure, the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement weave circulation, the flat weave structure comprises an interweaving point area and a vein relaxing area, the fabric positioned in the vein relaxing area comprises an upper layer and a lower layer, the upper layer and the lower layer are two layers of fabric which are separated and independent, and the fabric positioned in the interweaving point area is formed by interweaving the upper layer and the lower layer together; the weave structures of the upper layer and the lower layer in the vein relaxing area are both plain weave structures, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and warp yarns and weft yarns are all 100% of real silk.
In this embodiment, the number of weft yarns in the interlacing point region is 8-24, and the number of weft yarns in the interlacing region is 24-64.
In this embodiment, the warp yarns of the fabric include A, B, and the draw-in sequence of the fabric, that is, the arrangement sequence of the warp yarns in each yarn arrangement weave circulating unit is: one yarn A and one yarn B are arranged in a staggered mode, and the weft yarns of the fabric are all the yarn C.
In this embodiment, the A, B warp yarn specifications are as follows:
3/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting three steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and the twisting is intensified;
2/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting two steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and low twisting is added.
In this embodiment, the yarn C has a specification of 1/20/22D/S steam filature, that is, the warp is formed by twisting a steam filature with a strand number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and middle twisting is added.
The twist is low twist between 1T and 8T, the twist is medium twist between more than 8T and 20T, the twist is strong twist above 20T, in the weaving process of the fabric, warp yarns are respectively reinforced twist and low twist, weft yarns only have the specification of medium twist, and because the yarns with the reinforced twist and the low twist have different expansion rates and different shrinkage rates between an upper layer and a lower layer and are provided with interweaving areas, the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric can form convex wrinkle feeling in the channel passing area. And the yarns with strong twist can present matte color, while the yarns with low twist have better glossiness compared with the yarns with strong twist, so that the glossiness of the upper layer and the lower layer of the fabric are different, one side presents matte color, and the other side presents bright color.
In this embodiment, each of the flat weave structures includes 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and the 68 weft yarns form one yarn arrangement weave loop.
In this embodiment, the weave structure of the fabric includes eight fifty warp surface tissues above and below eighteen, eight eighteen weft surface tissues above and below fifty, twenty fifty warp surface tissues above and below seventeen and twenty seventeen weft surface tissues above and below seventeen from left to right, the eight fifty warp surface tissues above and below eighteen and the eight fifty weft surface tissues above and below fifty are staggered, and the twenty fifty warp surface tissues above and below seventeen and the twenty seventeen weft surface tissues above and below fifty are staggered; in the vein relaxing zone, the odd numbered warps and the odd numbered wefts are interwoven to form an upper layer of the fabric, and the even numbered warps and the even numbered wefts are interwoven to form a lower layer of the fabric; in the interlacing point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are interlaced together to form an interlacing area.
In this embodiment, the weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns with 68 weft yarns, wherein the weave points on the first warp yarn from left to right are the upper and lower three lower and upper and lower three lower and lower three upper and lower three upper and three lower three upper and lower three lower and lower three upper and, the weave points on the fourth warp yarn are the weave points on the third, next, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, second, upper, third, upper, second, upper, third, lower, second, third, upper, third, lower, third; the weave points on the seventeenth warp yarn are the upper, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth Three next, three next; the repeat of the stitch points of the twenty-first to fifty-sixth warp yarns repeats the stitch points on the seventeenth to twenty-fourth yarns.
In the embodiment, the weight of the finished fabric is 13 +/-0.5 m/m.
The production method of the double-layer real silk crepe comprises the following technical characteristics:
1) adopting the factory silk as a raw material, and weaving the raw material into blank silk by using a rapier loom; when a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the palm threading of the warp yarns is carried out by adopting a twelve-palm-section parallel threading method, the palm threading of the warp yarns in the interweaving area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 9 th to the 12 th palm in sequence from left to right, and the palm threading of the warp yarns in the unblocking area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 1 st to the 8 th palm in sequence from left to right; in the weaving process by adopting a rapier loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50 +/-5 g; the weaving shrinkage of the finished product silk is 6.12 plus or minus 0.2 percent;
2) degumming the blank silk;
3) printing or dyeing processes;
4) rinsing in water with the water temperature of 60 +/-5 ℃;
5) pre-shrinking the blank silk, wherein the pressure adopted during pre-shrinking is 3-7 kg of vapor pressure, and the speed is 3-7 m per minute;
6) after pre-shrinking, carrying out a shaping process at the shaping temperature of 140 ℃ and 175 ℃ at the speed of 7-13 meters per minute;
7) and (3) drying at the temperature of 90-95 ℃ for 5 minutes.
Because the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, a relatively simple partitioning sequential weaving method is adopted in the weaving process, the complexity of the palm threading work of a textile worker is reduced, automatic production can be basically realized after palm threading, and mechanical preshrinking and sizing are adopted after grey cloth is off the loom, so that the labor cost is reduced, the production efficiency is improved, and the production cost is reduced. The preshrinking is carried out by adopting steam pressing, the weft direction of the fabric shrinks under the twisting action, each certain warp yarn can generate wrinkle textures, and due to different twisting degrees, the elasticity of the upper layer and the lower layer is different, so that a convex wrinkle feeling is formed; the shaping is to carry out shaping work on the fabric with the wrinkle texture, so as to prevent the fabric from deforming and improve the stability of the fabric; therefore, a chemical after-finishing process is not needed after the grey cloth is woven, the naturalness of the fabric is kept, and the situation that skin allergy is caused due to the fact that chemical after-finishing raw materials are remained on the grey cloth is prevented.
Claims (10)
1. A double-layer real silk crepe is characterized in that the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, the weave structure of the fabric is a flat weave structure, each flat weave structure is a yarn arrangement weave circulation, the flat weave structure comprises a weave point area and a vein relaxing area, the fabric in the vein relaxing area comprises an upper layer and a lower layer, the upper layer and the lower layer are two layers of fabric which are separated and independent, and the fabric in the weave point area is formed by interweaving the upper layer and the lower layer together; the weave structures of the upper layer and the lower layer in the vein relaxing area are both plain weave structures, the weave structure in the interlacing point area is a twill weave structure, and warp yarns and weft yarns are all 100% of real silk.
2. The double-layered real-silk crepe according to claim 1, characterised in that the number of weft yarns in the interlacing points area is 8-24 and the number of weft yarns in the interlacing areas is 24-64.
3. The double-layer real-silk crepe according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the warp yarns of the fabric comprise A, B, and the draw-in sequence of the fabric is that the warp yarns in each yarn arrangement weave circulating unit are arranged in the following sequence: one yarn A and one yarn B are arranged in a staggered mode, and the weft yarns of the fabric are all the yarn C.
4. The double-layer real-silk crepe as recited in claim 3, wherein the A, B warp yarns have the following two specifications:
3/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting three steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and the twisting is intensified;
2/20/22D/S steam filature, namely the warp is formed by twisting two steam filature with the number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and low twisting is added.
5. The double-layer real-silk crepe as claimed in claim 3, wherein the size of the C yarn is 1/20/22D/S steam filature, that is, the warp is formed by twisting steam filature with a branch number of 20/22D, the twisting direction is S twisting, and middle twisting is added.
6. The double-layer real-silk crepe according to claim 3, wherein each flat-textured structure comprises 56 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns, and the 56 warp yarns and the 68 weft yarns form a yarn arrangement weave circulation.
7. The double-layer real silk crepe according to claim 6, wherein the weave structure of the fabric comprises eight fifty-top-eighteen warp surface weaves, eight eighteen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves, twenty fifty-top-seventeen warp surface weaves and twenty seventeen-top-fifty-one weft surface weaves from left to right, the eight fifty-top-eighteen warp surface weaves are staggered with the eight eighteen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves, and the twenty fifty-top-seventeen warp surface weaves are staggered with the twenty seventeen-top-fifty-bottom weft surface weaves; in the vein relaxing zone, the odd numbered warps and the odd numbered wefts are interwoven to form an upper layer of the fabric, and the even numbered warps and the even numbered wefts are interwoven to form a lower layer of the fabric; in the interlacing point area, all warp yarns and all weft yarns are interlaced together to form an interlacing area.
8. The double-layer real silk crepe as claimed in claim 6, wherein the texture of the face fabric is formed by interweaving 56 warp yarns with 68 weft yarns, wherein the texture points on the first warp yarn from left to right are the upper and lower three lower and upper and lower three lower and lower three upper and lower three upper and lower three upper and the weave points on the fourth warp yarn are the weave points on the third, upper, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, lower, second, upper, second, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third; the weave points on the seventeenth warp yarn are the upper, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, third, upper, third, lower, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth, third, fourth Three next, three next; the repeat of the stitch points of the twenty-first to fifty-sixth warp yarns repeats the stitch points on the seventeenth to twenty-fourth yarns.
9. The double-layered real-silk crepe according to claim 1, characterised in that the final weight of the material is 13 ± 0.5 m/m.
10. A method of producing a double-layered real-silk crepe according to claim 1, characterised in that it comprises the following technical features:
1) adopting the factory silk as a raw material, and weaving the raw material into blank silk by using a rapier loom; when a rapier loom is adopted for weaving, the palm threading of the warp yarns is carried out by adopting a twelve-palm-section parallel threading method, the palm threading of the warp yarns in the interweaving area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 9 th to the 12 th palm in sequence from left to right, and the palm threading of the warp yarns in the unblocking area is carried out by adopting the parallel threading method from the 1 st to the 8 th palm in sequence from left to right; in the weaving process by adopting a rapier loom, the upper machine tension of the fabric is 50 +/-5 g; the weaving shrinkage of the finished product silk is 6.12 plus or minus 0.2 percent;
2) degumming the blank silk;
3) printing or dyeing process;
4) rinsing in water with the water temperature of 60 +/-5 ℃;
5) pre-shrinking the blank silk, wherein the pressure adopted during pre-shrinking is 3-7 kg of vapor pressure, and the speed is 3-7 m per minute;
6) after pre-shrinking, carrying out a shaping process at the shaping temperature of 140 ℃ and 175 ℃ at the speed of 7-13 meters per minute;
7) and drying at 90-95 ℃ for 5 minutes.
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