JP2001207374A - Method for producing woven/knitted fabric sewn product - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing a woven/knitted fabric sewn product capable of imparting itself with new designability, and furthermore after sewn, surface appearance, feel, touch, color, etc., each adapted to the fashion, therefore compatible with multikind-small-lot production system and early delivery date as well. SOLUTION: This method for producing the subject product comprises the following process: the gray fabric of a woven/knitted fabric is sewn, and then subjected to desizing, scouring and/or relaxation.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a woven or knitted sewn product, for example, a woven or knitted sewn product containing a polyester synthetic fiber, is processed in the order of yarn production, knitting, desizing, scouring and / or relaxing, dyeing finishing, and sewing. Has been manufactured. By manufacturing a woven or knitted sewing product through such a process, a product with stable quality can be manufactured in large quantities. Also, in woven and knitted sewing products, it is often used for clothes, bags, shoes, etc., which require fashion,
In order to provide consumers with new things according to consumers' preferences that change every year, by making various ideas in the processes of yarn production, weaving, weaving, dyeing, sewing, etc., New products are being developed one after another. However, it is difficult to obtain a new design product having a new surface appearance, texture, touch, etc. by only using a conventional manufacturing method, and a new yarn has been developed. There is a problem that enormous cost and time are required.

Furthermore, in recent years, the trend has been drastically changing, and it has become difficult to predict what will become popular the next year. Therefore, it is highly probable that having these in stock for yarn, woven and knitted goods, and sewn products is likely to be a defective stock, so there is a strong tendency to create final products such as clothing from the time when the trend becomes apparent without having stock. It has become to. On the other hand, short delivery time is required to supply what you can sell when you sell it, but if you make yarn after catching the trend as described above, it will take time until the final product is made, By the time the final product is made, the trend may have changed. Furthermore, since the flow of multi-product, small-lot production is becoming increasingly stronger, there is a demand for a fundamental reconsideration of conventional production methods for stable and mass production.

Accordingly, in order to cope with a large variety of small lots and a short delivery time, a woven or knitted fabric containing a low-shrinkage polyester synthetic fiber which has been scoured and relaxed is dyed as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 61-289103. It has been proposed to sew before. However, the sewn product obtained by this method can be manufactured in a short delivery time according to the color trend of the year, but the surface appearance, texture, touch, etc. with the product obtained by the conventional manufacturing method From the point of view of design, there is no difference from the conventional one. Therefore, it is not possible to produce products in accordance with the rapidly changing fashion as in the present, and there is a high possibility that sewn products will be defective stocks, and this has not solved any problems. Further, a polyester dyeable at normal pressure and a low-temperature dyeable polyester are used.
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-13092 discloses that the cloth after scouring and relaxing is sewn and dyed in the same manner as in JP-A-89103.
No. 6, JP-A-63-152403 is known,
These methods have similar problems.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and can provide a new design. Further, after sewing, the surface appearance, texture, touch, and color according to the fashion can be obtained. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product which can be adapted to a large variety of small lots and can be adapted to a short delivery time.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a method of manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn article, which comprises sewing a woven or knitted greige fabric and then performing desizing, scouring and / or relaxing. Provide a way.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric is made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool, regenerated fibers such as rayon, and semi-synthetic fibers such as triacetate. And a mixture of two or more of these fibers or mixed woven products. Such a greige is preferably a woven or knitted fabric containing synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers and nylon fibers, and includes, for example, short fibers and long fibers including normal pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester fibers and low temperature dyeable polyester fibers. Or a woven or knitted fabric containing the known polyester synthetic fiber. The yarns constituting these woven or knitted fabrics may be ordinary flat yarns, processed yarns, twisted yarns, or the like. Further, from the viewpoint of the design properties of the obtained sewn product, it is preferable that the sewn product include a processed yarn such as a false twisted yarn or another crimped yarn and a twist yarn such as a normal twisted yarn or a strongly twisted yarn. Plain weave, oblique weave, satin weave, and other well-known weaves or knits of warp knit or weft knit can be used and are not particularly limited.

In the present invention, the woven or knitted greige fabric is knitted, woven and sewn in a conventional manner, and then subjected to desizing, scouring and / or relaxing. After desizing, scouring and / or relaxing after sewing the greige machine, the fabric shrinks due to shrinkage, crimping, untwisting, etc. of the yarn, and the grain, wrinkles, etc. appear, and the predetermined surface appearance, texture, touch Thus, a sewn product having a peculiar design that can be obtained by the conventional manufacturing method can be obtained.

In sewing, the finished dimensions are calculated based on the shrinkage ratios of the woven and knitted fabric in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the sewing may be performed from a greige machine. The sewing may be performed by a known method. At this time, if the sewing is performed in consideration of the shrinkage in the vertical and horizontal directions due to desizing, scouring and / or relaxation of the woven or knitted fabric, for example, the woven or knitted fabric having a partially different shrinkage (sleeve, collar, piping portion, etc.) Or the same woven or knitted fabric,
By adopting the vertical, horizontal or bias direction, a product having a further different design can be obtained.

[0010] The woven or knitted sewn product obtained at this time has a shrinkage ratio of at least one of a longitudinal direction and a lateral direction of 5% or more, preferably 20%, more preferably 40% or more. Here, the shrinkage ratio is a percentage of the decrease in the length of the same part in the product after desizing, scouring, relaxing or dyeing, relative to the length of the greige machine in the vertical or horizontal direction. The length in this product is measured on the sewn product dried at around 60 ° C. after dyeing if dyeing, and desizing, scouring and / or relaxing when not dyeing, Is a value measured for a product dried at about 60 ° C.

In the present invention, desizing, scouring, and relaxing can be performed by known methods. In particular, scouring and relaxation can be performed at a known temperature using a known drug or the like. For example, at 60 ° C to 130 ° C,
It can be carried out using an alkaline agent such as caustic soda, soda ash, sodium tripolyphosphate, or a chemical such as an anionic, nonionic or cationic surfactant, a chelating agent, and a fluorescent brightening agent.

Before scouring and relaxing,
The heat treatment may be performed at 00C to 210C. This heat treatment suppresses the shrinkage of the heat-treated part, the shrinkage of the yarn due to relaxation, the appearance of crimping, the untwisting, etc., the improvement of the stability of the processing grade and the sewability, and the partial heat treatment. It can give a flat surface feeling and a large convex part.

Further, if necessary after scouring and relaxing,
Weight reduction processing may be performed. As a condition for the weight reduction, the weight loss in a bath is preferable. At 90 ° C. to 140 ° C., the weight can be reduced by using an alkali agent such as caustic soda or a weight loss accelerator if necessary. By performing the weight reduction process, a sewn product having a soft texture can be obtained. Next, if necessary, staining can be performed. The conditions for dyeing may be arbitrarily selected depending on the type of fiber constituting the sewn product, but at 80 ° C to 140 ° C, dyes such as disperse dyes, cationic dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes, and direct dyes, and pH adjustment The treatment may be performed using an agent, a surfactant or the like. Also, if necessary, at the time of dyeing, ultraviolet shielding processing, flameproofing processing, bacteriostatic processing
Antistatic processing, darkening processing, water absorption processing, and the like may be performed.

Further, a finishing process may be performed if necessary. Specifically, after dyeing, softener, antistatic agent,
Various processes can be performed using an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, a water absorbing agent, a deepening agent, and the like. These processes can be performed by applying an agent to a sewn product by dipping or spraying in a bath. Also, wrinkling can be performed. Specifically, after sewn products are packed in bags or tied with strings, desizing, scouring, relaxing or dyeing are performed, and heat pressing is performed at any time such as before or after scouring and relaxing. This can provide wrinkles.

For the above processing, a drum type processing machine can be used except for some heat treatment and wrinkle processing. The type of the drum type processing machine can be arbitrarily selected depending on the type of processing, but a high pressure type capable of setting the processing temperature to 100 ° C. or higher is preferable. Specifically, by using a high-pressure washer such as "Dye Actor" (trademark) manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., scouring, relaxation, weight reduction, dyeing, and finishing can be performed in a series of processes, and productivity can be improved. It is also preferable from the viewpoint of cost and cost.

[0016]

The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples. Example 1 As a warp, 30 deniers, 24 filaments, several 1
Plain fabrics were woven using regular polyester fibers of 000 times / m, 50 deniers and 36 filaments as weft yarns, and 2,500 times / m of cationic dye dyeable polyester. Using this greige machine as it was, a high-neck blouse pattern was created based on the shrinkage (9% vertical, 67% horizontal) measured in advance and sewn.

The sewn product is heat-treated at 130 ° C. for 30 seconds, and then, using a “dye actor” manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., the number of rotations of the drum is 40 rpm, caustic soda 2 g / L, nonionic surfactant 0.1. Under the condition of 3 g / L,
Scouring and relaxation were performed for 0 minutes. Continued
0.1% of disperse dye Sumikaron Red E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dye Tech Co., Ltd.) at a drum rotation speed of 20 revolutions / min.
owf, Kayacryl Red GL-ED (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.)
Using 0.1% owf in a buffer solution of pH 5.5,
Dyeing at 120 ° C. for 20 minutes gave a red dyed product.

After the dyeing, an antistatic treatment was performed at 20 ° C. for 3 minutes under the conditions of a drum rotation speed of 20 times / minute and Nice Pole FL (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) at 0.5 g / L, followed by dehydration. Dry and obtain a high neck blouse product. The obtained high neck blouse product had a large pleated grain and natural grain on the shoulders, sides, and hem, and was well tailored. This product is lighter than a pleated product and has good fit to the body.

Example 2 Plain fabrics were woven using regular polyester fibers of 50 denier, 28 filaments, and several SZ 2700 turns / m for both the warp and the weft. Using this greige as it is, the shrinkage measured in advance (38% fresh, 28
%), A tank top pattern was created and sewn.

The sewn product is packed in a 15 cm square bag, and then the drum speed is 15 revolutions / minute, caustic soda 2 g / L, nonionic surfactant 0.3 g / Under the conditions of L
Scouring and relaxation took place for a minute. Subsequently, at a drum rotation speed of 20 times / minute, the disperse dye Sumicaron Blue E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dye Tech Co., Ltd.) 0.1% o
Using wf and 0.5 g / L of acetic acid at 130 ° C. for 20 minutes, a red dyed product was obtained.

After dyeing, an antistatic treatment was performed at 20 ° C. for 3 minutes under the conditions of a drum rotation speed of 20 times / minute and Nice Pole FL (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) of 0.5 g / L, and water was removed. Dry and get the tank top. The resulting tank top had an unprecedented appearance due to the combination with the grain and wrinkles obtained by untwisting the yarn. In addition, wrinkles were also formed in the sewn portion, and the overall finish was natural and the texture was soft without a core.

[0022]

After the sewing machine is sewn as described above, desizing, scouring and / or relaxing are performed, and if necessary, dyeing, wrinkling, weight reduction and heat treatment are performed in order to impart a desired design. By combining and processing the sewn product, the surface appearance, texture, touch, etc., such as wrinkles, crevices, ridges, irregularities, etc. is not only excellent in design that has never been seen before, but also the inherent elasticity of yarn Thus, a sewn product having elasticity can be obtained. Furthermore, when looking at the entire sewn product, there is a natural sense of unity including the sewn parts,
Products with excellent tailoring can be obtained. Therefore, if this sewn product is used for clothes such as dresses, cut-and-sews, skirts, coats, bags, shoes, curtains, etc., it is possible to provide products with excellent design.

Further, conventionally, after a specific product plan is completed, a long time is required because the yarn production, knitting, weaving, scouring and / or relaxing, dyeing finishing, and sewing must be performed in this order. However, according to the method of the present invention, since all surface changes, textures, and touches can be applied after sewing, it is possible to prepare in the state of a sewn product, and it is possible to provide specific After the product is determined, as a part of the dyeing finish processing, only desizing, scouring and / or relaxing, weight loss processing, dyeing, wrinkling processing, heat treatment, finishing processing,
Since sewn products can be manufactured, it is possible to respond to high-mix low-volume production in a short delivery time.

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Claims (8)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted greige machine is sewn and then desizing is performed.
A method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product, comprising performing scouring and / or relaxing. 2. The method according to claim 1, further comprising dyeing. 3. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, further comprising performing a weight reduction process. 4. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, further comprising wrinkling. 5. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, wherein a heat treatment is performed after sewing, before desizing, scouring and / or relaxing. 6. The woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven or knitted sewn product has a shrinkage rate of at least one of a longitudinal direction and a lateral direction of 5% or more. Production method. 7. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted material contains a processed yarn. 8. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric contains a twisted yarn.