WO2001053593A1

WO2001053593A1 - Production method for sewn product of woven/knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2001053593A1
Application number: PCT/JP2001/000367
Authority: WO
Inventors: Aki Kitamoto
Original assignee: Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd.
Priority date: 2000-01-21
Filing date: 2001-01-19
Publication date: 2001-07-26
Also published as: JP3492269B2; JP2001207374A

Abstract

A production method for a sewn product of a woven/knitted fabric, characterized in that a gray fabric of a woven/knitted fabric is sewn, and then is subjected to desizing and/or scouring and/or relaxation. The method can afford novel design features, and, after sewing, can impart a surface appearance, texture, touch, colors or the like in vogue, thereby accommodating a small-lot/multi-product production and a short-time delivery.

Description

Description Manufacturing method of woven and knitted sewing products

The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven or knitted sewing product. Background art

Traditionally, woven or knitted sewn products, for example woven or knitted sewn products containing polyester-based synthetic fibers, are processed in the order of yarn manufacturing, weaving, desizing, scouring and Z or relax, dyeing finishing, and sewing. , Are manufactured. By manufacturing a woven or knitted sewing product through such a process, a large quantity of products with stable quality can be manufactured. In addition, woven and knitted sewing products are often used in clothes, bags, shoes, etc., which require fashionability, so that they can be adapted to the changing tastes of consumers every year. In order to provide new products, new products are being developed one after another by making various improvements in the processes of yarn production, knitting, weaving, dyeing, and sewing. However, it is difficult to obtain a new design product having a new surface appearance, texture, touch, etc., only by the conventional manufacturing method, and a new yarn has been developed. However, there is a problem that the development of yarn requires enormous cost and time.

Furthermore, in recent years, the epidemic has changed drastically, making it difficult to predict what will happen next year. Therefore, it is highly probable that having yarn, woven or knitted fabric, or sewn products in stock will result in defective stock. There is a strong tendency to create On the other hand, what sells Short delivery times are required to supply when sold, but if thread is made after catching the trend as described above, it takes time until the final product is made, so the final product is made. By the time, the epidemic has changed. In addition, the trend of multi-product, small-lot production is becoming increasingly stronger, and there is a demand for a radical oversight of conventional production methods for stable mass production.

Therefore, in order to cope with a wide variety of small lots and short delivery times, a low-shrinkage polyester based on scouring and relaxation as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 61-289103. It has been proposed to sew woven or knitted fabrics containing synthetic fibers before dyeing. However, the sewn products obtained by this method can be manufactured in a short delivery time according to the color trend of the year, but the products obtained by the conventional manufacturing method have the same surface appearance and texture. However, it is not different from the conventional one from the viewpoint of the design of the touch and the like. Therefore, it is not possible to make a product in accordance with the rapidly changing fashion as in the present, and there is a high possibility that sewn products will be defective stocks, which has not solved any problems. In addition, as in JP-A-61-289103, the fabric after scouring and relaxation is sewn using a normal pressure thione dye dyeable polyester or a low temperature dyeable polyester. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 10-130926 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-152003 are known for performing dyeing and the like, but these methods have similar problems. I have Disclosure of the invention

The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and can provide a new design. Further, after sewing, the surface appearance, texture, touch, color, and the like according to the fashion can be obtained. It is intended to provide a method of manufacturing woven and knitted sewn products that can be applied to small lots of various kinds and that can also respond to short delivery times. The present invention provides a method for manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product characterized by sewing a woven or knitted fabric, and then performing desizing, Z or scouring, and Z or relaxing. I do. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

In the present invention, the woven fabric of the woven or knitted fabric is composed of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool, regenerated fibers such as rayon, and semi-synthetic fibers such as triacetate. However, two or more of these mixed-fiber / woven fabrics may be used. Such a greige fabric is preferably a woven or knitted fabric containing synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers or nylon fibers. Examples thereof include normal pressure thione dye-dyeable polyester fibers and low-temperature dyeable polyester fibers. A woven or knitted fabric containing known polyester-based synthetic fibers of short fibers and long fibers. The yarns constituting these woven or knitted fabrics may be ordinary flat yarns, processed yarns, twisted yarns, and the like. In addition, from the viewpoint of the design of the obtained sewn product, it is preferable that the sewn product include a processed yarn such as a false twisted yarn or another crimped yarn and a twisted yarn such as a normal twisted yarn or a strongly twisted yarn. The texture can be any of plain weave, oblique weave, satin weave and other well-known weaves or warp knit or weft knit braids, and is not particularly limited.

In the present invention, the greige fabric is woven and knitted, sewed, and then subjected to desizing and / or scouring and / or relaxation in a conventional manner.

After sewing the greige machine, if desizing and Z or scouring and / or re-latching are performed, the fabric shrinks due to shrinkage, crimping, untwisting, etc. A sewn product having a specific surface appearance, texture, touch, etc., also having a natural sense of unity as a whole, and having a unique design that could not be obtained by conventional manufacturing methods. You can get It is.

At the time of sewing, the dimensions at the time of finishing are calculated based on the shrinkage ratios of the woven and knitted fabric in each of the vertical and horizontal directions, sewing may be performed from a greige machine, and sewing may be performed by a known method. At this time, if the sewing is performed in consideration of the desizing of the woven or knitted fabric and the shrinkage in the vertical and horizontal directions due to Z or scouring and / or relaxation, for example, partial sewing (a sleeve, a collar, a piping portion, etc.) Even in the case of a combination of woven or knitted fabrics having different shrinkage rates or the same woven or knitted fabric, those having further different design properties can be obtained by taking them in the vertical direction, the horizontal direction, or the bias.

The woven or knitted sewn product obtained at this time has a shrinkage ratio of at least one of a longitudinal direction and a lateral direction of at least 5%, preferably at least 20%, more preferably at least 40%. That's right. Here, the shrinkage rate is the decrease in the length of the same part of the product after desizing, scouring, reluxing or dyeing, relative to the length of the greige machine in the vertical or horizontal direction after sewing. It is a percentage. The length of this product is measured on the sewn product dried at around 60 ° C after dyeing if dyeing, and desizing and Z or scouring and Z or After relaxing, it is the value measured for a sewn product dried at around 60 ° C. In the present invention, desizing, scouring and relaxing can be performed by known methods. In particular, scouring and relaxation can be performed at a known temperature using a known chemical. For example, at 60 ° C. to 130 ° C., caustic soda, soda ash, tripolyphosphate Alcohol agents such as soda can be performed using anionic or nonionic agents or agents such as cationic surfactants, chelating agents, and optical brighteners.

In addition, heat treatment may be performed at 100 ° C. to 210 ° C. before performing scouring and relaxation. This heat treatment suppresses scouring of the heat-treated part, shrinkage of yarn due to relaxation, development of crimp, untwisting, etc. By improving the stability and sewability of the steel, and by partially performing the heat treatment, it is possible to provide a partially flat surface feeling or a large convex portion.

After scouring and relaxation, weight reduction processing may be performed if necessary. As a condition for weight reduction, the weight loss in the bath is preferable, and at 90 ° C to 140 ° C, processing can be carried out using an alkaline agent such as caustic soda or a weight loss accelerator if necessary. . By performing weight reduction processing, a sewn product with a soft texture can be obtained.

Then, if necessary, staining can be performed. The dyeing conditions may be arbitrarily selected according to the type of fibers constituting the sewn product, but at 80 ° C to 140 ° C, disperse dyes, cationic dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes It is preferable to use a dye such as, a pH adjuster, a surfactant and the like. Also, if necessary, at the time of dyeing, ultraviolet shielding treatment, flameproofing treatment, bacteriostatic treatment, antistatic treatment, darkening treatment, water absorption treatment, etc. may be performed, and if necessary, finishing Processing may be performed. Specifically, after dyeing, various processing can be performed using a softener, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, a water absorbing agent, a darkening agent, and the like. These processes can be performed by applying a chemical to the sewn product by dipping in a bath, spraying or the like.

Also, wrinkling can be performed. Specifically, after sewn products are bagged or tied with string, desizing, scouring, relaxing or dyeing, scouring, before or after scrubbing, etc. Wrinkles can be imparted by performing heat pressing or the like. For the above processing, a drum type processing machine can be used except for some heat treatment and wrinkling processing. The type of drum-type processing machine can be arbitrarily selected depending on the type of calorie. It is preferable to use a high-pressure type that can be set to a temperature of 0 ° C or more. Specifically, using a high-pressure mesh such as “Dye Actor” (trademark) manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., a series of processes such as scouring, relaxation, weight reduction, dyeing, and finishing can be performed. It is also preferable from the viewpoint of productivity and cost.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples.

Example 1

30 denier, 24 filament as warp, regular polyester fiber of more than 1000 times / m, 50 denier, 36 filament as weft A plain fabric was woven using a cationic dye-dyeable polyester of Zm. Using this greige machine as it was, a Hinek blouse pattern was created based on the pre-measured shrinkage (9% vertical, 67% horizontal) and sewn.

The sewn product is heat-treated at 130 ° C for 30 seconds, and then using a “dye actor” manufactured by Tetsuo Onomori Co., Ltd., with a drum rotation speed of 40 rpm, caustic soda 2 g ZL, no The scouring and relaxation were performed at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes under the condition of 0.3 g ZL of the nonionic surfactant.

Continuously, at 20 drum rotations Z, the disperse dye Sumicaron Red E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dyeing Tech Co., Ltd.) 0.1% owf, and Kayakuri Norredo GL—ED (Nippon Kayaku Using 0.1% owf in a buffer solution of pH 5.5 at 120 ° C for 20 minutes to obtain a red stain.

After dyeing, perform antistatic treatment at 20 ° C for 3 minutes under the condition of 0.5 g / L of Nicepol FL (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) for 20 minutes at a drum rotation speed of 20 minutes. Dehydration and drying gave a high neck blouse product. The resulting high neck blouse product has a large pleated grain and natural grain on the shoulders, sides and skirt. It was a good thing. In addition, this product is lighter than a pleated product and has good fit to the body, and has never been seen before.

Example 2

Plain fabrics were woven using regular denier fibers of 50 denier, 28 filaments and more ZS270 times Zm for both the warp and the weft. Using this greige machine as it was, the pattern of the tank top was created based on the shrinkage percentage measured in advance (38% vertically, 28% width) and sewn.

The sewn product is packed in a 15 cm square bag, and then the drum speed is 15 rotations / minute, caustic soda 2 g / L, nonionic surface activity using “Dye Actor” manufactured by Tetsuo Onomori Co., Ltd. The agent was scoured and relaxed at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes under 0.3 g ZL.

Then, at 20 drum revolutions, 0.13% owf of disperse dye Sumicalon Blue E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dye Tec Co., Ltd.) and 0.5 g ZL of acetic acid were used. After staining at 0 ° C for 20 minutes, a red stain was obtained.

After dyeing, the drum was rotated 20 times for Z minutes, and Nicepol FL (manufactured by Nika Chemical Co., Ltd.) was subjected to antistatic treatment at 20 ° C for 3 minutes under the condition of 0.5 g ZL. Water and dried to obtain a tank top. The resulting tank top had an unprecedented appearance due to the combination of the grain and wrinkles obtained by untwisting the yarn. In addition, wrinkles were also formed in the sewn parts, the overall finish was natural and the texture was soft without a core.

Industrial applicability

After sewing the greige as described above, desizing and / or scouring and Z or relaxation are performed, and if desired, the desired design In order to impart W, dyeing, wrinkling, weight reduction, and heat treatment are combined to process the sewn greige product, resulting in surface appearance such as wrinkles, grains, ridges, and irregularities, texture, It is possible to obtain a sewn product having not only a design excellent in unprecedented design but also the natural properties and elasticity of the yarn. Furthermore, when viewed as a whole sewn product, a natural sense of unity including the sewn part is obtained, and a product with excellent tailoring can be obtained. Therefore, if this sewn product is used for clothes such as dresses, cutsaws, scarts, and coats, bags, shoes, curtains, etc., products with excellent design properties can be provided.

Conventionally, after a specific product plan has been completed, a long time is required because it must be processed in the order of yarn production, weaving, scouring and / or relaxation, dyeing and finishing, and sewing. On the other hand, according to the method of the present invention, all surface changes, textures and touches can be applied after sewing, so that it is possible to prepare in the state of a sewn product, and it is possible to adapt to fashion. After the specific product is determined, as a part of the dyeing and finishing process, sew only by desizing, scouring and Z or relax, weight loss, dyeing, wrinkling, heat treatment and finishing Because products can be manufactured, it is possible to respond to high-mix low-volume production in a short delivery time.

Claims

The scope of the claims

1. A method for producing a woven or knitted sewing product, which comprises sewing a woven or knitted greige fabric, and then performing desizing and Z or scouring and / or laxing.

2. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1, further comprising dyeing.

3. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising performing mass processing.

4. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein wrinkling is further performed.

5. The woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a heat treatment is performed after the sewing and before desizing and / or scouring and lathing or relaxing. Production method.

6. The production of a woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein at least one of the longitudinal and lateral directions of the woven or knitted sewn product has a shrinkage of 5% or more. Method.

7. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the woven or knitted fabric contains a processed yarn.

8. The method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the woven or knitted fabric contains a twist thread.