JP3492269B2 - Manufacturing method of woven and knitted sewing products - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a woven or knit sewn product.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, woven and knitted sewn products, for example, woven and knitted sewn products containing polyester-based synthetic fibers are processed in the order of thread production, knitting and weaving, desizing, scouring and / or relaxing, dyeing finish, and sewing. Are manufactured. By manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product through such steps, it is possible to mass-produce products with stable quality. Also, in woven and knitted sewn products, since it is often used for clothes, bags, shoes, etc. that require fashionability,
In order to provide new products to consumers in accordance with the changing tastes of consumers every year, by making various ingenuities in processes such as yarn production, weaving, knitting, dyeing and sewing, New products are being developed one after another. However, it is difficult to obtain a product with a new design property having a new surface appearance, texture, touch, etc. only by the conventional manufacturing method, and although a new yarn is being developed, There is a problem that enormous cost and time are required.

Further, in recent years, the fashion has changed drastically, making it difficult to predict what will happen next year. Therefore, for yarn, woven and knitted goods, and sewn products, having these as inventory is likely to result in poor inventory, so there is a strong tendency to make final products such as clothes from the moment the fashion is caught without inventory. It has become to. On the other hand, although it is required to shorten the delivery time to supply what can be sold, if you make threads after catching the fashion as described above, it will take time until the final product is made, The fashion may have changed by the time the final product was made. Further, since the trend of making small lots of various kinds is becoming stronger and stronger, a drastic reexamination of the conventional manufacturing method of stable mass production is desired.

Therefore, in order to cope with a large variety of small lots and a short delivery time, a woven or knitted fabric containing a polyester composite fiber of low shrinkage, which has been scoured and relaxed, is dyed as described in JP-A-61-289103. It has been suggested to sew before. However, the sewn product obtained by this method can be manufactured in accordance with the color trend of the year with a short delivery time, but the surface appearance, texture, touch, etc. of the product obtained by the conventional manufacturing method can be reduced. From the point of view of design, it is no different from the conventional one. Therefore, it is not possible to make a product according to a rapidly changing fashion as at present, and there is a high possibility that the sewn product will be defective stock, and no problem has been solved. Further, a normal pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester or a low temperature dyeable polyester is used, and is disclosed in JP-A-61-2.
As in the case of No. 89103, scouring and relaxing dough is sewn and dyed.
No. 6, JP-A-63-152403 are known,
These methods have similar problems.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and is capable of imparting a novel design property, and further, after sewing, the surface appearance, texture, touch, and color according to the fashion can be obtained. Therefore, it is intended to provide a method for manufacturing a woven and knitted sewn product which can be applied to a large variety of small lots and can be delivered in a short time.

[0006]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention is to manufacture a woven or knit sewn product characterized by sewing a raw material of a woven or knitted product, and then desizing, scouring and / or relaxing. Provide a way.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric is made of synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool, recycled fibers such as rayon and semi-synthetic fibers such as triacetate. It may be a mixed fiber or a mixed woven product of two or more kinds thereof. Such greige is preferably a woven or knitted fabric containing synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers or nylon fibers. For example, short fiber and long fiber containing normal pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester fiber, low temperature dyeable polyester fiber, etc. It may be a woven or knitted fabric containing the known polyester-based synthetic fiber. The yarns that compose these woven and knitted fabrics may be ordinary flat yarns, processed yarns, twisted yarns, or the like. Further, from the viewpoint of the designability of the obtained sewn product, it is preferable that it includes textured yarn such as false twisted yarn and other crimped yarn, and twisted yarn such as ordinary twisted yarn and strongly twisted yarn. A plain weave, a twill weave, a satin weave, and other known weaving structures and warp knitting and weft knitting structures can be used and are not particularly limited.

In the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is woven, woven and sewn by a conventional method, and then desizing, scouring and / or relaxing. When desizing, scouring and / or relaxing are performed after sewing the raw fabric, the fabric shrinks due to shrinkage, crimping, untwisting, etc. of the fabric, and creases, wrinkles, etc. develop, giving the desired surface appearance, texture and touch. Thus, a sewn product having a unique design which cannot be obtained by the conventional manufacturing method is obtained.

When sewing, the dimensions of the woven or knitted fabric at the time of finishing are calculated from the respective shrinkage ratios in the length and width of the woven or knitted fabric, and the sewing is performed from a raw machine. The sewing may be performed by a known method. At this time, if the sewn fabric is sewn in consideration of the shrinkage rates in the longitudinal and transverse directions due to desizing, scouring and / or relaxation, for example, woven and knitted fabrics having different shrinkage rates partially (sleeves, collars, piping parts, etc.) Even with the same combination or the same woven or knitted fabric,
By adopting a vertical direction, a horizontal direction or a bias, a product having a different design can be obtained.

The woven and knitted sewn product obtained at this time has a shrinkage ratio of at least one of the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction of 5% or more, preferably 20%, more preferably 40% or more. Here, the shrinkage rate is the percentage of the decrease in the length of the same portion in the product after desizing, scouring, relaxing or dyeing with respect to the length of the raw machine in the longitudinal or lateral direction after sewing. The length of this product is measured after dyeing and then sewn product is dried at around 60 ° C. when dyeing, and when not dyed, after desizing, scouring and / or relaxing, sewn product Is a value measured for a product dried at around 60 ° C.

In the present invention, desizing, scouring and relaxing can be performed by known methods. In particular, scouring and relaxing can be carried out at a known temperature using a known drug. For example, at 100 ° C. to 130 ° C., an alkaline agent such as caustic soda, soda ash, sodium tripolyphosphate or the like, anionic or nonionic. It can be carried out using a chemical agent such as a cationic or cationic surfactant, a chelating agent, an optical brightening agent and the like.

Before scouring and relaxing, 1
You may heat-process at 00 degreeC-210 degreeC. This heat treatment suppresses scouring of the heat-treated part, shrinkage of the yarn due to relaxation, development of crimp, untwisting, etc. to improve the stability of processed quality and sewability. It is possible to give a flat surface feeling or a large convex portion.

After scouring and relaxing, if necessary,
Weight reduction processing may be performed. As the weight reduction processing conditions, weight reduction in the bath is preferable, and it is possible to perform processing at 90 ° C. to 140 ° C. using an alkali agent such as caustic soda and, if necessary, a weight reduction accelerator. By performing weight reduction processing, a sewn product with a soft texture can be obtained. Then, if necessary, dyeing can be performed. The dyeing conditions may be arbitrarily selected according to the type of fibers that make up the sewn product, but at 80 ° C to 140 ° C, dyes such as disperse dyes, cationic dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes and direct dyes, pH adjustment It is recommended that the treatment be carried out using an agent, a surfactant or the like. Also, if necessary, at the time of dyeing, UV shielding processing, flameproofing processing, antibacterial processing,
Antistatic processing, darkening processing, water absorption processing, etc. may be performed.

Further, finishing may be carried out if necessary. Specifically, after dyeing, a softening agent, an antistatic agent,
Various processing can be performed using an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, a water absorbing agent, a darkening agent, and the like. These processes can be performed by applying a chemical to the sewn product by immersion in a bath, spraying or the like. It is also possible to perform wrinkle processing. Specifically, after sewn products are packed in a bag or tied with a string, desizing, scouring, relaxing and dyeing are performed, and heat pressing is performed at any time before and after scouring and relaxing. Wrinkles can be imparted by doing so.

For the above-mentioned processing, a drum type processing machine can be used except for some heat treatment and wrinkling processing. The type of the drum type processing machine can be arbitrarily selected according to the type of processing, but a high pressure type machine capable of processing temperature of 100 ° C. or higher is preferable. Specifically, by using a high-pressure washer such as "Dye Actor" (trademark) manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., it is possible to perform scouring, relaxing, weight reduction processing, dyeing, and finishing processing in a series of steps, thus improving productivity. It is also preferable in terms of cost.

[0016]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples. Example 1 30 denier as warp, 24 filaments, number 1 from twist
A plain woven fabric was woven using 000 times / m regular polyester fiber, 50 denier as a weft, 36 filaments, and several 2,500 times / m cationic dye dyeable polyester. Using this raw machine as it is, a pattern of a high neck blouse was prepared based on the shrinkage rates (9% vertical and 67% horizontal) measured in advance, and sewing was performed.

The sewn product was heat-treated at 130 ° C. for 30 seconds, then, using a "dye actor" manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., a drum rotation speed of 40 revolutions / minute, caustic soda 2 g / L, nonionic surfactant 0. 3 at 100 ° C under the condition of 3 g / L
Scouring and relaxing were performed for 0 minutes. Continuing,
Disperse dye Sumikaron Red E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dyestuff Co., Ltd.) 0.1% at a drum rotation speed of 20 times / min.
owf, Kayacryl Red GL-ED (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.)
0.1% owf in a buffer solution of pH 5.5,
Dyeing at 120 ° C. for 20 minutes gave a red dyed product.

After dyeing, antistatic treatment was carried out at 20 ° C. for 3 minutes under the conditions of a drum rotation speed of 20 times / minute and Nicepol FL (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) of 0.5 g / L, followed by dehydration. After drying, a high neck blouse product was obtained. The obtained high neck blouse product had large creases like pleats and natural warts on the shoulders, sides, and skirts, and was well tailored. In addition, this product was lighter than the pleated product and had a good fit to the body, which was unprecedented.

Example 2 For both warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was woven using regular polyester fibers of 50 denier, 28 filaments and several SZ2700 times / m. Using this raw machine as it is, the shrinkage ratio measured in advance (38% vertical, 28 horizontal)
%), A pattern of the tank top was created and sewn.

The sewn product was packed in a bag of 15 cm square, and then, using "Dye Actor" manufactured by Onomori Iron Works Co., Ltd., drum rotation speed 15 rpm, caustic soda 2 g / L, nonionic surfactant 0.3 g / 30 at 100 ° C under L condition
Scouring and relaxing were performed for a minute. Subsequently, at a drum rotation speed of 20 revolutions / minute, the disperse dye Sumikaron Blue E-RPD (manufactured by Sumika Dyestuff Tech Co., Ltd.) 0.1% o
A red dyed product was obtained by dyeing with wf and 0.5 g / L of acetic acid at 130 ° C. for 20 minutes.

After dyeing, antistatic treatment was carried out at 20 ° C. for 3 minutes under conditions of 20 rpm of drum rotation and 0.5 g / L of Nicepol FL (manufactured by Nichika Kagaku Co., Ltd.), and water was removed. , Dried and got a tank top. The obtained tank top had an unprecedented appearance due to the combination with the grain and the wrinkle obtained by untwisting the yarn. In addition, wrinkles were connected even in the sewn area, and the overall look was natural and the texture was soft without a core.

[0022]

[Effects of the Invention] After sewn the raw fabric as described above, desizing, scouring and / or relaxing are performed, and further, in order to impart desired designability, dyeing, wrinkling, weight reduction and heat treatment are performed. By combining and processing the raw fabric sewn product, not only the surface appearance such as wrinkles, creases, ridges, irregularities, texture, touch etc. is excellent in designability that is unprecedented, but also the original elasticity of the thread Thus, a sewn product having elasticity can be obtained. Furthermore, looking at the sewn product as a whole, there is a natural sense of unity, including the sewn part,
A product with excellent tailoring can be obtained. Therefore, when this sewn product is used for clothes such as dresses, cut-and-sewers, skirts, coats, bags, shoes, curtains, etc., it is possible to provide products with excellent designability.

Further, in the past, a long time is required because it is necessary to process yarn manufacturing, knitting and weaving, scouring and / or relaxing, dyeing and finishing, and sewing after a specific product plan is completed. However, according to the method of the present invention, since any surface change, texture, and touch can be imparted after sewing, it is possible to prepare in the state of sewn products, and to make it concrete according to the fashion. After deciding on the appropriate products, as a part of the dyeing finishing process, only desizing, scouring and / or relaxing, weight reduction process, dyeing, wrinkling process, heat treatment, finishing process,
Since it is possible to manufacture sewn products, it is possible to handle high-mix low-volume production with a short delivery time.

Claims (11)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric is sewn, then desized,
A method for producing a woven or knitted sewn product, which comprises scouring and / or relaxing at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher . 2. At least one of a vertical direction and a horizontal direction
Sew raw fabric of woven and knitted fabrics with shrinkage of 40% or more
And then desizing, scouring and / or relaxing
A method for manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product, which comprises: 3. A woven or knitted fabric made of synthetic fibers is sewn.
And then desizing, scouring and / or relaxing
A method for manufacturing a woven or knitted sewn product, which comprises: 4. A woven or knitted fabric includes synthetic fibers, the warp of which
20% or more in at least one of the lateral and lateral directions
The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 3, characterized in that
Manufacturing method of sewing products. 5. A woven or knitted fabric includes synthetic fibers, and its warp
At least 40% in at least one of the lateral and lateral directions
The woven and knitted sewn product according to claim 4, characterized in that
Manufacturing method. 6. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric sewn article according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that performing further staining. 7. A method of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric sewn article according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that performing the reduction processing. 8. A method of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric sewn article according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the wrinkled. 9. After sewing, desizing, scouring and / or manufacturing method of the woven or knitted fabric sewn article according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that heat treatment is performed prior to the relaxation. 10. The method of claim 1-9 or method of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric sewn product described in the woven or knitted fabric characterized in that it comprises a yarn. 11. The method of claim 1-10 production method of woven or knitted fabric sewn article according to any one of the woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that it comprises twine.