FR3143330A1 - Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion , in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising (a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol is strictly greater at 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18; (c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one non-silicone oil, the composition being free silicone compounds.

Description

Composition comprising at least one saturated fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one polyol, and at least one non-silicone oil Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
(a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18;
(c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
(d) at least one non-silicone oil,
the composition being free of silicone compounds.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratin materials.

Background of the invention

The type of particular galenic targeted by the present invention, namely of the oil-in-water emulsion type requiring in particular the presence of at least one C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16 hydrocarbon chain -C22, allows active ingredients to be conveyed while providing interesting sensory properties when applied to keratin materials.

Compositions of the oil-in-water emulsion type requiring in particular the presence of at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol and at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, are in particular described in the application patent WO2018108878 and in patent application WO2020002538.

However, these compositions meet very specific objectives. They are intended in particular to mask skin imperfections or to moisturize the skin.

However, it is sometimes difficult to reconcile the requirements in terms of sensory properties, texture and stability. In particular, it is desirable to have compositions capable of maintaining good stability over time, while having good sensoriality, in particular little or no problem of soaping during application.

The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

In view of the above, it is thus obvious that there remains a need to have compositions presenting interesting sensory properties, and in particular good pot hold, good slipperiness, a non-sticky appearance, and a reduction or absence of soaping during application, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

Finally, consumers today are very sensitive to the environmental impact of the products used.

Consequently, it remains very difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions offering particular sensory properties with a good slippery and non-sticky sensation upon application, having low soaping, while maintaining good stability over time.

The subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
(a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18;
(c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
(d) at least one non-silicone oil,
the composition being free of silicone compounds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " free from silicone compounds " means a composition according to the invention which comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably is free (devoid) of silicone compounds.

By “ silicone compounds ” (also called silicones), we mean all silicone compounds capable of being used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, that is to say inorganic compounds consisting of at least a mixture of silicon and of oxygen, including in particular silicone oils, silicone surfactants, dimethylsiloxane polymers, volatile or functionalized silicones, silicone elastomers, silicone resins, phenyl or aminated silicones.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair.

As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions having interesting sensory properties, and in particular good pot hold, good slipperiness, a non-sticky appearance, and low soaping, while maintaining satisfactory stability over time.

The compositions according to the present invention advantageously make it possible to convey ingredients of various nature such as cosmetic active ingredients, sun filters, particles, polymers, perfumes, dyes, nacres depending on the different benefit(s). s) desired.

The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the different examples can in particular be combined in variants not illustrated.

The expression “ at least one ” means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “ between ” and “ ranging from… to… ”.

By “ keratin materials ” according to the invention is meant the skin of the body, face and/or neck and/or eye contour, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp. and/or hair, or any other skin area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair, and/or the skin.

Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are skin.

By “ the skin ”, we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials such as the skin.

The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin.

By “ cosmetic ”, we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say one which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, i.e. tingling, tightness. , redness, likely to dissuade the user from applying this composition.

Detailed description of the invention Composition according to the invention: C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18.

By “ saturated fatty alcohol ” is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated (without double or triple covalent bond) and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear alkyl radical, said chain comprising between 16 and 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.

By “ hydrocarbon chain ” is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

The saturated fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention comprise between 16 and 22 carbon atoms, preferably between 16 and 18 carbon atoms.

The saturated fatty alcohol(s) useful in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol (C16), stearyl alcohol or octadecanol (C18), behenic alcohol (C22) which are solid at room temperature and advantageously have an -OH group at the end of the chain.

Preferably, the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol (or cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol – “ceteraryl alcohol” in English).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of saturated C16 and C18 fatty alcohols, in particular the composition comprises cetylstearyl alcohol.

More preferably, the mixture of C16 and C18 fatty alcohols is used in a C16/C18 mass ratio varying from 20/80 to 80/20, and advantageously in a C16/C18 mass ratio equal to 50/50.

The content of saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol(s), preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount of between 3.1% and 7% by weight, more preferably between 3.2% and 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactants comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18.

The anionic surfactant(s) useful in the context of the invention comprise at least one linear hydrocarbon chain, saturated (without double or triple covalent bonds) or unsaturated (which may contain one or more double and/or triple covalent bonds), preferably saturated. , in particular a linear alkyl radical, said hydrocarbon chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) useful in the context of the invention comprise a single linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.

By “ hydrocarbon chain ” is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from alkyl(C16-C22)sulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)amidesulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)arylsulfonates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfoacetates, N-acyl(C16-C22)-N-alkyl(C1-C6)taurates, acyl(C16-C22)isethionates, alkyl(C16-C22)sulfolaurates, and mixtures thereof .

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one sulfonate function are chosen from:
- acylisethionates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
- N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the linear, branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms , or cyclic comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl group is methyl,
- and their mixtures;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

As N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, mention may be made of sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol; the sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate sold under the name NIKKOL SMT by the company NIKKO.

The acyl glutamate(s) may be chosen from acyl glutamates whose acyl group comprises 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

As examples of acyl glutamates, mention may in particular be made of palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, in particular the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li, K, of preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

We can cite for example the compounds bearing the INCI name sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and their mixtures.

As salts of acyl glutamic acid, mention may also be made of sodium stearoyl glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated stearoyl glutamate such as that sold under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from the surfactants of general formula (I): RCOY(CH ₂ ) _n SO ₃ M in which R represents a saturated, linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group; Y represents -O- or –NR ₁ - with R ₁ representing a linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl group; M is chosen from the group formed by hydrogen, alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, the ammonium group and organic amines; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant of general formula (I) is N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate, with M corresponding to Na.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, more preferably from N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates, the linear or branched acyl group comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group being methyl, in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium (Na).

Preferably, the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is sodium N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate.

The anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the compositions according to the invention, the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) can be between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and even more preferably between 9:1 and 4:1.

Without wishing to be linked to any theory, it seems that the fatty alcohol(s) and the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain form with the hydrophilic phase an alpha-crystalline phase also called alpha- freeze. This phase can in particular be characterized by DSC analysis and by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the alpha gel phase.

Thus, the composition according to the invention is capable of forming crystalline lamellar phases.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain at least one swollen alpha-crystalline phase having a swelling period greater than 10 nm, and preferably greater than 12 nm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 15 nm. The period is defined as being the sum of the thickness of a bilayer formed by fatty alcohols (a) and anionic surfactants (b) and the thickness of the water layer between two lamellae, this pattern repeating several times.

According to a particular embodiment, in a composition according to the invention, the difference between the number of carbon atoms of the hydrocarbon chain of the anionic surfactant(s) (b) and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty alcohol(s) (a) must not differ by more than 5 carbon atoms, preferably it is less than or equal to 4.

Polyol

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “ polyol ” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

By polyol, within the meaning of the invention, we mean:

- a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; Or

- a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as for example polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 d units ethylene glycol.

Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

The polyol(s) may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerithrytol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen.

Preferably, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, more preferably are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and propane -1,3-diol, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol.

The polyol(s) are present in the composition preferably in an amount of between 15.1% and 29.9% by weight, preferably between 17% and 25% by weight, and even more preferably between 18% and 23% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-silicone oils

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil.

By “ oil ” is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise hydrocarbon oils.

They can be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ hydrocarbon oil ” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The term “ non-silicone oil ” means an oil not comprising a silicon atom, and in particular a Si-O group.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

As hydrocarbon oil, we can in particular cite:
- branched alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular in C8-C16 such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures,

-linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 26 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 20 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from the Cognis Company, and their mixtures; or a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms (named C15-C19 alkane), for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic.

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleyam, squalane, and their mixtures,

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, rice bran, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive and soy oils. , sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower, muscat rose, Limanthes alba seeds (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or even the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel. We can also cite coco-caprylate/caprate, for example sold under the name Cetiol LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810 C by the company Stearinerie Dubois,
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,
- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate alkyl having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by the company Witco or “Tegosoft TN” by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name “X-Tend 226” by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or (Z)-Octadec-9-enyl (Z)-docos-13-enoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis » by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetra-octanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer ; tartrates such as linear di-alkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the Company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms , for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- dimer diol and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol function(s) or free acid(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters , more particularly chosen from esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures,
- fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name “Eldew SL205” from Ajinomoto,
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (2-hexyldecanol), 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- higher C19-C22 fatty acids,
- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC” by the company Cognis;

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from branched or linear alkanes comprising more than 8 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbons, linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, esters diol dimer and diacid dimer, fatty amides, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and optionally unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, higher C19-C22 fatty acids, carbonates and their mixtures; preferably from squalane, oleyl erucate, a mixture of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

By “ non-polar oil ” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and not containing oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or atoms. fluorine.

Preferably, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as:
- squalane;
- isoeicosane;
- naphthalene oil;
- polybutenes such as for example INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160g/mol), marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO;
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example Parléam V® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g/mol), VISEAL 20000 marketed or manufactured by the company SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g/mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the company WITCO (MW = 1000 g/mol;
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular INDOPOL L-14;
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as in particular: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g/mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS, or even PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL; And
- their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) have a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, more preferably greater than or equal to 400 g.mol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone oil chosen from the non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s), more preferably having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, such as squalane.

The non-silicone oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 20%, even more preferably from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase.

The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range for example from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and again better from 3% to 15% by weight.

This indicated quantity does not include the content of anionic surfactants as defined above.

For the purposes of the invention, the oily phase includes any fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, like waxes, or any pasty compound, present in said composition, with the exception of fatty alcohols as defined above.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water and the polyol(s) as defined above. The quantity of aqueous phase can range from 50% to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, better still from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water can represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 35% by weight, better still 'at least 40% by weight.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive, different from the polyols mentioned above.

By “ water-soluble additive ” is meant in the present invention a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

As water-soluble additives, we can also cite primary alcohols, that is to say an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.

The quantity of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range for example from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH of between 4 and 9, more preferably between 4.5 and 7.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

By the expression “ additional active ”, we mean, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent for the activate, a biological activity.

The additional asset(s) may in particular be chosen from:

- vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, panthenol, niacinamide or vitamin B3 ;

- known anti-aging active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid;

- known anti-acne active ingredients,

- solar filters;

- menthol and

- and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, dyes, pearls, pigments, film-forming polymers, thickening polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), fillers, dispersing agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional active ingredient used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the planned addition. .

Cosmetic composition

The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. It comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

In addition, the composition according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, that is to say by surface application of the keratin material considered, such as the skin considered.

Preferably, the skin is the skin of the face and/or body, in particular of the face and/or neck and/or hands, preferably of the face, and/or neck and more particularly of the forehead and/or wings of the nose and/or chin.

The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application.

As specified, the composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition can alternatively have the form of a facial and/or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example in the form of a cream in a pot or a fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle or in a dropper bottle. .

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

The ingredients are mixed before being shaped, in order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises cetyl stearyl alcohol, sodium salt of N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate, a mixture of caprylyl glycol and glycerol and optionally squalane.

Processes and uses

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair.

The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can for example be formulated in the form of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam.

According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more periods of 'interruption.

According to one embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more interruption periods.

According to a variant embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned using a washing solution.

Furthermore, treatment combinations may be envisaged with possibly topical forms in order to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention.

One could imagine a topical treatment with the composition according to the invention, associated with an additional composition dedicated to topical application, this additional composition being able to be impregnated on a wipe type support.

Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a method of cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, comprising:

a) a step of topical application to the skin of a washing solution;

b) a step of topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention, and

c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b),

steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

Such a composition applied in step c) can be described as an “additional composition”.

The washing solution may in particular be in different forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or others, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or gel.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and is ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise stated. Furthermore, the percentages are mentioned by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1:

Three compositions according to the invention (named composition 1, composition 2 and composition 3 ) and one composition outside the invention ( Composition 4 ), in particular comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight (in occurrence 2%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.

These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, include the compounds detailed in Table 1 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Phase Compounds (INCI name) 1 2 3 4 HAS Conservatives qs qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol ⁽¹⁾ 3.6 3.8 3.2 2 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate ⁽²⁾ 0.4 0.4 0.6 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane ⁽³⁾ 5 10 10 5 VS Glycerin 20 10 10 20 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

1. sold by the company BASF under the trade name LANETTE O OR (Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16/C18 50/50));
2. sold by the company NIKKO under the trade name NIKKOL SMT;
3. sold by the company AMYRIS under the trade name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE.

Preparation protocol

In a tank, the components of phase A are heated up to 75°C until a homogeneous medium is obtained under the blades.

To this mixture heated to 60°C, the components of phase B and C are added with stirring.

The mixture is cooled with stirring and under vacuum and the pH is adjusted if necessary (pH around 5-6).

Finally, a final homogenization phase is carried out up to a temperature of 32°C, still with stirring and under vacuum, if necessary by reducing the turbine.

Stability measurement:

The stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol.

The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.

The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature or “RT” (approximately 25°C), at 4°C, and at 45°C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example from the Bio concept brand by Firlabo.

The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

The properties evaluated are:

- the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

- the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM100 from the Lamy Rheology brand, according to the CID-012-02 method;

- the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under an optical microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

- the color and odor of the composition; And

Phenomena of destabilization of the composition will also be observed such as the appearance of creaming, coalescence, sedimentation, flocculation, the formation of a film on the surface, marbling, etc.

The closer the properties of the composition after 1 month and/or 2 months of storage remain to those measured initially at 24 hours at 25°C, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable.

In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without destabilization phenomenon and without change in color and odor, then it is considered to be stable.

Measurement of the sensory effect (soaping):

The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of noting the presence of a white trace during the application of compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention and composition 4 excluding the invention on the skin, by a panel of six expert people.

To do this, 50 µL of the composition to be tested are taken using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with a 0.5 mL combitips, then placed on a circle of 5 cm in diameter drawn on a Lipstain support (Reference : Lipstain/C3).

The composition is then spread with the fingers, by approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15 second intervals.

We evaluate the presence of white traces, or even foam on the support.

Between two assessments, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with hot water.

The study is carried out by a panel of six expert people individually assessing the presence of white traces according to the protocol above.

The result is expressed by the average of the marks obtained, rounded to the nearest half unit, according to the following scale:

- score < 3: few or no white marks;

- score equal to 3: greater quantity of white traces;

- note > 3: quantity of white traces, see very significant foam.

The presence of white traces, or even foam, means that the composition presents a soaping problem.

According to the invention, a composition is considered to present soaping problems if its average score according to the protocol above is greater than or equal to 3.0.

Stability and sensory result:

The stability as well as the sensory effect (soaping) of composition 1 to 3 according to the invention and of composition 4 outside the invention were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.

The stability and sensory effect results are compiled in Table 2 below.

Compositions 1
(invention) 2 (invention) 3 (invention) 4
(excluding invention) Sensory effect (soaping) 2 2 1.5 3 Long-term stability Compliant Compliant Compliant Non-compliant (creaming)

Compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition are stable over time, in the sense that no significant change of its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.

On the contrary, composition 4 outside the invention comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition shows creaming after 2 months of storage at 45°C. Consequently, composition 4, outside the invention, is therefore unstable.

In addition, compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention have good sensoriality, with few soaping problems during application, and slippery and non-sticky sensations upon application, unlike composition 4 outside the invention. .

As a result, a composition according to the invention, comprising a C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol content strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, presents both stability and advantageous sensory properties. .

Example 2:

Two compositions outside the invention (named Composition 5 and Composition 6 ), in particular comprising a quantity of polyol less than or equal to 15% by weight (in this case 5%) or greater than or equal to 30% by weight (in this case 30%) relative to the total weight of the composition, were prepared.

Composition 1 according to the invention corresponds to the composition presented in Example 1.

These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, include the compounds detailed in Table 3 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Phase Compounds (INCI name) 1 5 6 HAS Conservatives qs qs qs Cetearyl alcohol ⁽¹⁾ 3.6 3.6 3.6 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate ⁽²⁾ 0.4 0.4 0.4 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 Chelating 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Squalane ⁽³⁾ 5 5 5 VS Glycerin 20 5 30 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

1. sold by the company BASF under the trade name LANETTE O OR (Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16/C18 50/50));
2. sold by the company NIKKO under the trade name NIKKOL SMT;
3. sold by the company AMYRIS under the trade name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE.

The protocol for preparing these compositions is identical to that described in Example 1.

Viscosity measurement:

The viscosity of the compositions can be measured using a Rheometer (Rhéomat RM200).

The measurement is carried out using an immersed element (mobile or measuring body) rotating at a chosen and constant speed. The measurement is carried out with a product to be analyzed - bucket - measuring body at a given set temperature, regulated for example using a thermostatic bath.

60 ml of the composition to be tested is introduced into the cup, avoiding the introduction of air and pouring along the wall.

The mobile used to make the measurements is chosen according to the viscosity of the product to be analyzed:

- M1: lotion;

- M2: fluid milk;

- M3: cream, thick milk; and or

- M4: thick cream,

preferably M3.

The device program is to carry out a system of 75 measurements, with a mobile rotation speed of 200 rpm. The set temperature is 25°C. The viscosity is taken after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.

The results are expressed in Pa.s.

A composition can be considered to be compact for good pot consistency if it has a viscosity greater than or equal to 650 mPa.s as measured according to the protocol defined above.

Viscosity and sensory effect result (soaping):

The sensory effect (soaping) as well as the viscosity of composition 1 according to the invention and compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention were evaluated according to the protocol for measuring the sensory effect detailed in Example 1 and the protocol for viscosity measurement detailed above.

The sensory effect and viscosity results are compiled in Table 4 below.

Compositions 1
(invention) 5
(excluding invention) 6
(excluding invention) Sensory effect (soaping) 2 2 4 Viscosity at 24h with Mobile 3 - pot consistency 1196 mPa.s compact 192 mPa.s
flexible 1280 mPa.s compact

Composition 1 according to the invention comprising a quantity of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has a compact pot consistency allowing easy potting by the consumer.

On the contrary, the composition 5 outside the invention comprising a quantity of polyol less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition has a fluid pot consistency which makes it difficult for the consumer to take it from the pot.

In addition, composition 1 according to the invention has good sensoriality, with little problem of soaping during application, and sensations of slippery and non-sticky upon application, unlike composition 6 outside the invention comprising a quantity of polyol greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, which presents soaping problems.

As a result, a composition according to the invention, comprising a quantity of polyol strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has both a compact texture allowing a good pot hold and advantageous sensory properties.

Claims (15)

Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which an oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
(a) at least one saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol, preferably C16-C18, in which the content of saturated C16-C22 fatty alcohol is strictly greater than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18;
(c) at least one polyol present in an amount strictly greater than 15% by weight and strictly less than 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
(d) at least one non-silicone oil,
the composition being free of silicone compounds. Composition according to claim 1, in which the C16-C22 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetyl stearyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of saturated C16 and C18 fatty alcohols, preferably in a C16/C18 mass ratio varying from 20/80 to 80/20, and advantageously in a C16 mass ratio. /C18 equal to 50/50. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the C16-C22, preferably C16-C18, saturated fatty alcohol(s) are present in an amount of between 3.1% and 7% by weight, more preferably between 3. .2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, acyl glutamates, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain are chosen from surfactants comprising at least one sulfonate function, more preferably from N-acyl-N-alkyltaurates , the linear or branched acyl group comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and the alkyl group being a methyl, in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium ( N / A). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain is sodium N-stearoyl N-methyl taurate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant(s) comprising at least one C16-C22 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C16-C18, are present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% in weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio of fatty alcohols (a) / anionic surfactants (b) is between 10:1 and 6:4, preferably between 19:2 and 7:3, and again more preferably between 9:1 and 4:1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, more preferably are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and propane-1,3-diol, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyol(s) are present in the composition in an amount of between 15.1% and 29.9% by weight, preferably between 17% and 25% by weight, and further more preferably between 18% and 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, more preferably having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 350 g.mol, such as squalane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-silicone oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, plus preferably from 3% to 20%, even more preferably from 5% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the care, protection and/or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair.