FR2843020A1 - Composition for e.g. lipstick comprises fatty acid ester of dextrin as thickener and gelling agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. The fatty phase contains an oil or a mixture of oils that has solubility parameters deltad, deltap and deltah satisfying equation (1). (4(deltad-deltade)2 + (deltap-deltape)2 + (deltah-deltahe)2 )1/2 at most 10 (1) deltade, deltape and deltahe are the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin ester forming a physiologically acceptable medium. An Independent claim is also included for a composition containing a mixture of fatty acid esters of dextrins. One has a degree of substitution less than 2, and one with a degree of substitution greater than 2.

Description

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The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, capable of being used for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular of human beings, such as the skin, semi-mucous membranes, mucous membranes and / or integuments, and more particularly the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes, the hair.

 The composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials.

 The makeup composition for keratin materials can be a makeup product for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as a foundation, a concealer product, a blusher or eyelid, a makeup product of the body such as a semi-permanent tattoo product, a lip makeup product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, possibly having non-therapeutic care or treatment properties, an eye makeup product such as an eyeliner or a mascara, nail polish, hair coloring product.

 The care composition for keratin materials can be a product for caring for, cleaning, removing make-up from the skin (of the face, body, hands), such as a base for non-therapeutic care or treatment for the skin, such as hands or face, a care cream (day, night cream, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer); care composition as a base for lip care (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind); a sun protection product for the facial skin; a sun protection or self-tanning composition; a make-up removing cream or emulsion; a personal hygiene product such as deodorants, shampoos and conditioners; hair care product such as a hair care cream.

 According to a preferred method of implementation, the composition is in the form of a makeup composition such as a foundation, blush or eyeshadow, a lipstick, a mascara, an eye- liner, and more especially a product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, an eyeshadow or a blush, an eyeliner.

 In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a thickened fatty phase, in particular thickened oils; this is particularly the case with anhydrous products or even solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks.

 It is also known to thicken oils with polymeric thickeners.

 Unfortunately, known oil thickeners must be used in large quantities to obtain a gel of high viscosity. Too much

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 thickener gives the composition, when the latter is intended for the cosmetic field, insufficient properties, in particular a tacky feel and a lack of slipperiness, these drawbacks being able to be very annoying, even prohibitive.

The triblock polymers styrene / ethylene-propylene / styrene such as those described in the document US 5221534 used in a large quantity to thicken the oily phase of a foundation have poor cosmetic properties: the makeup being very sticky, thick when l application, gives a feeling of heaviness to the user. In addition, these polymers do not make it possible to obtain a stable foundation for 2 months at 45 ° C.: the product releases oil on the surface of the composition and is therefore no longer homogeneous. The user must then shake the composition well before use. If the composition is not agitated or badly agitated, the application of this composition to the skin leaves an uncomfortable greasy feeling and the makeup obtained is not homogeneous, traces of color are visible on the skin. Furthermore, a foundation that is too thick is difficult to homogenize well before it is applied to the skin by the user, thus making it difficult to obtain a homogeneous makeup on the skin.

 Dextrin esters are generally known as stabilizers of emulsions and as thickeners of oils in the prior art.

 Thus, application JP 63 216 817 describes a gel containing a cyclic silicone of low molecular weight, a fatty phase, i.e. petroleum jelly or lanolin, and a dextrin ester.

 Application WO 97/11678 describes an antiperspirant gel gelled in particular with a dextrin ester. The dextrin ester described has a degree of esterification greater than 2. This composition presented as stable has the drawback of exuding: the oil is released on the surface of the stick.

 The Applicant has observed that the solid compositions of the prior art tend to cover themselves with droplets of fatty substances over time, and this all the more quickly the higher the temperature and / or humidity conditions. This phenomenon of exudation of fatty substances is very harmful, because it provokes a repulsion on the part of the users.

 The present invention therefore aims to provide a composition which is stable and which does not release oil on the surface of the composition. The invention also aims to provide a composition forming a deposit on keratin materials which is comfortable and homogeneous.

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 Surprisingly, the applicant has discovered that the use of a mixture of a dextrin ester whose degree of esterification is less than 2 and an ester of which the degree of substitution is greater than 2 makes it possible to obtain thickened or gelled compositions, stable over time (in particular stability at 2 months for 45 ° C.). The application of the composition to keratin materials results in a comfortable and homogeneous film. In addition, the film deposited is thin; the film is also non-migrant.

When the composition is a makeup composition, it makes it possible to obtain a film which is homogeneous in color.

This mixture of dextrin esters has the advantage of retaining the oils contained in the fatty phase. It also makes it possible to obtain a composition whose stability is improved. The composition is easily applied to the skin with a feeling of melting.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a non-transparent composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, gelled or thickened with a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 based on a glucose unit and at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 based on a glucose unit, the liquid fatty phase and the esters of dextrin forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

The subject of the invention is also a process for making up or for non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a deposit, in particular a make-up, homogeneous and / or comfortable on keratin materials.

Another subject of the invention is the use of at least one dextrin and fatty acid ester, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 based on a glucose unit and at least one dextrin and fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a non-transparent cosmetic composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, to thicken or gel the composition and / or to limit the exudation of the composition , and / or to limit the migration of the composition and / or to obtain a stable composition and / or to obtain a comfortable and / or homogeneous deposit on the keratin materials and / or to obtain a composition which is easily applied to the materials keratin.

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 The subject of the invention is also the use of a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and the at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a non-transparent composition containing a liquid fatty phase and pigments, in order to improve the homogeneity of the deposit of the composition, in particular the homogeneity of its color and / or to obtain a stable composition and / or to obtain a composition which is easily applied to keratin materials.

The term “transparent composition” is intended to mean a transparent or translucent composition such that it transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.

Transmission measurement is performed with a UV-visible spectrophotometer
Cary 300 Scan from Varian according to the following protocol:
The composition is poured into a square section spectrophotometer tank, the side of which is 10 mm long.

 The sample of the composition is then kept in an enclosure thermostatically controlled at 20 ° C. for 24 hours.

 The light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then measured at the spectrophotometer by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode.

 The percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then determined at the wavelength of 750 nm.

 By “liquid fatty phase”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant a fatty phase liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), composed of one or more fatty substances liquid at ambient temperature, also called "oils", generally compatible with each other.

 By “thickened” within the meaning of the invention is meant a composition whose viscosity is increased by the addition of the mixture of dextrin esters, and which flows under its own weight over time.

 By "gelled" within the meaning of the invention means a composition whose viscosity is increased by the addition of the mixture of dextrin esters and which does not flow under its own weight over time.

 The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials of human beings, such as a cosmetic medium, which is pleasant to touch, in appearance and / or in smell, applicable for several days for several months.

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dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15 et 40. The dextrin and fatty acid ester, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit advantageously corresponds to formula (1)

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, or even 12-22 and better still 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer included between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15 and 40.

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3, représentent l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (RCO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier allant de 3 à 150, notamment de 10 à 100, et de préférence de 15 à 40. According to another mode of implementation, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit advantageously corresponds to formula (II)

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (RCO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, or even 12-22 and better still 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, in particular from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40.

The radical R-CO- of the dextrin ester of formula (I) or (II) is chosen from

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 caprylyl radicals, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyle, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethyl butyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isomyclyl, isotridaryl, isotridecyl, isotridecyl , tetradecenyl, myristyle, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof.

The R-CO radical is advantageously linear. R-CO is preferably the palmityl radical. n advantageously ranges from 25 to 35, preferably ranges from 27 to 33, and better equals 30.

Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 based on a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1, 8, more preferably is between 1.5 and 1.7. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular under the name RHEOPEARL TL from the company
Chiba Flour.

The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 based on a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15. 000 and
20,000. The average molecular weight by weight is determined by gas chromatography, with a polystyrene calibration.

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R'1, R'2 et R'3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R'-CO-) dans lequel le radical R' est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un According to a mode of implementation, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit corresponds to formula (III)

in which: the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R 'is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, or even 12-22 and better still 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one

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 of said radicals R'1, R'2 or R'3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, in particular from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40.

R 'and n can have the same meaning as R and n described above.

Advantageously, the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3 are identical, provided that at least one of said radicals R'1, R'2 or R'3 is different from hydrogen.

Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 based on a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is greater than 2.1, preferably between 2, 1 and 2.3.

The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 based on a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15. 000 and
20,000. The average molecular weight by weight is determined by gas chromatography, with a polystyrene calibration.

 As examples of dextrin esters of formula (III) according to the invention, mention may be made of Rheopearl KL sold by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

 The dextrin and fatty acid ester, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 4% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 4% to 10% by weight.

 The dextrin and fatty acid ester, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 4% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 4% to 10% by weight.

 The mixture of dextrin esters may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 9% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 9% to 25% by weight.

 The gelation of the oil or oils of the liquid fatty phase is modifiable in part by the nature and the quantity of the dextrin ester of degree of substitution less than 2 used.

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The dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 and the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 are preferably in relative mass proportions varying from 1 / 10 to 2/1, preferably from 1/8 to 3/2, more preferably from 1/2 to 3/2, and preferably from 0.8 to 1.2, and more preferably from 0.9 to 1, 1.

By "liquid fatty phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), composed of one or more fatty substances liquid at room temperature. This liquid fatty phase may contain a volatile liquid organic phase and / or a non-volatile liquid organic phase.

The term “volatile organic phase” means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin, in less than an hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This volatile phase notably comprises oils having a vapor pressure, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from
1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

 By non-volatile organic phase is meant any medium capable of remaining on the skin for several hours. A non-volatile liquid organic phase has in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, non-zero less than 0.001 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

 The liquid fatty phase may comprise at least one oil in particular chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture insofar as they form a homogeneous mixture and macroscopically stable and where they are suitable for the intended use.

 The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atom. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

 The total liquid fatty phase of the composition (that is to say the total of oil (s)) can represent from 5% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 20% to 75% by weight and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight.

 Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase can contain one or more volatile organic oils at room temperature, such as cosmetic oils.

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 volatile. These oils are favorable for obtaining a deposit of good resistance and not transfer. These volatile oils also facilitate the application of the composition to the skin. They can be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain.

As volatile organic oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 mm2 / s and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane; - volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched alkanes in C8-C16 such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C8-C, 6, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or
Permethyls', branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neo pentanoate and mixtures thereof; preferably isododecane is used; - and their mixtures.

 Advantageously, the volatile organic oil or oils represent from 0.1 to 80%, preferably from 1 to 60% and better still, from 5 to 50% of the total weight of the composition.

 The composition may further comprise a non-volatile oil.

 As non-volatile oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, petroleum jelly oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin; oils of animal origin such as mink, turtle oil, perhydrosqualene; oils of vegetable hydrocarbon origin with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular triglycerides fatty acids, in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic and octanoic acids and capric / caprylic acids, or alternatively hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond, calophyllum and palm oil , grapeseed, sesame, macaw, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, alfalfa, squash, blackcurrant,

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 macadamia, muscat rose, hazelnut, avocado, jojoba, olive, germ of cereals (corn, wheat, barley, rye), shea butter; fatty acid esters, in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl 2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for example l Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, erucate 2-octyl dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, succinate 2-diethyl-hexyl, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisoketyl citrate, glycerin or diglycerin triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate; higher C8-C26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher Ca-C26 fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; synthetic ethers with at least 7 carbon atoms, silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) liquid at room temperature, linear, optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyiliphyls liquid 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups such as alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes such as dimethicone copolyols or alkylmethicone copolyols; liquid fluorinated silicones; and their mixtures.

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The composition may comprise one or more non-volatile oils in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80%, of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight. weight.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, gums, pasty fatty substances, and their mixtures.

By “wax” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C. which can range up to at 200 C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed.

 The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To carry out the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement.

 The hardness value is the measured compression force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

 The waxes, in the sense of the request, can be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, possibly modified, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese, cork or sugar cane fibers, ceresin, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or ethylene copolymerization, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concrete at 45 C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 45 C, having 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as acid stearic, myristic, or behenic, and their mixtures.

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The wax can represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 0.1 to 40%, and better still from 0.1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition can be free of waxes.

The term “pasty compound” within the meaning of the invention means a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 60 ° C., preferably from 30 to 45 ° C. and a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa. The pasty fatty substance can be of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or even silicone.

By way of example of pasty fatty substances, mention may be made of PDMSs having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as stearyl dimethicone and in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the references
DC2503 or DC25514; esters of fatty alcohol or fatty acid having from 20 to 55 carbon atoms (a melting point in particular from 20 ° C. to 35 ° C. and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s) such as cholesterol esters such as hydrogenated plant triglycerides such as, for example, hydrogenated castor oil sold under the name "Thixinr" by the company Rheox, vinyl polylaurate, arachidyl propionate, triisostearyl or cetyl citrate, the copolymer
PVP / Eicosene; lanolins and their derivatives such as acetylated lanolines, oxypropylenated lanolines or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 10 to
25 Pa. S, preferably from 19 to 25 Pa. S and / or a melting point of 25 to 45 C; their mixtures.

 The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl-dimethicone such as, for example the product sold under the name of "Abil wax 2440" # by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

 Likewise, the composition may also comprise at least one silicone resin comprising a combination of the units R3SiO1 / 2, R2SiO2 / 2, RSi03 / 2 and Si04 / 2, in which R denotes an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms .

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water. The water can be floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE water.
POSAY and / or thermal water.

 The aqueous phase can also include organic solvents which are water-soluble (at 25 ° C.) such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, C1 to C4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

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The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

It can also incorporate any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase, and in particular water, can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 70%, in particular from 5% to 50% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, in particular water-free, water does not not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants whose HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) is less than
7 and is suitable for obtaining a water-in-oil W / O emulsion.

 As surfactant having a lower HLB 7, there may be mentioned the fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates of sorbitol or of glycerol, laurates of glycerol or of polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of a silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

The surfactant can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.3% to
10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 1% to
8% by weight.

 The composition according to the invention can comprise fillers.

 By "filler" is meant any colorless particle chosen from mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong fillers, chemically inert in the composition.

 Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, laponite, polyamide powders such as nylon, poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymers, lauroyl -lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), particles of acrylic polymer, in particular of acrylic acid copolymer such as Polytrap (Dow Corning), polyurethane powders, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate,

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 dicalcium phosphate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads by Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 with 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof. These fillers can be treated or not on the surface, in particular to make them lipophilic.

The fillers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, and better still ranging from 1 to 35% by weight.

The composition can advantageously contain a coloring material which can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring material is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably of
1 to 35% and better from 5 to 25%.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC
Green 6, 5-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet
2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.

 The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments can represent from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 35%, and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still
0.1% to 15%.

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Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise a particulate phase present in a content ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 40% by weight.

The particulate phase can comprise a particulate material chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres as described above.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additional additive usually used in the field concerned, such as antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, lipophilic gelling agents, gelling agents of aqueous phase, dispersants, cosmetic active agents. These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0.0005% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.001% to 10%.

As cosmetic active agent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of vitamins A, E,
C, B3, F, provitamins like D-panthenol, soothing active ingredients like a-bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents like ceramides , "freshness" active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter, dimethicone), moisturizers (arginine PCA), anti-wrinkle active ingredients, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and their mixtures.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the envisaged addition.

 The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

 It can be in the form of a cream, a paste or a solid. It can be an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion, or even an anhydrous, solid or flexible gel.

 The composition of the invention may be a self-supporting composition and may be in the form of a stick or a cup. It is in particular in the form of an anhydrous rigid gel, and in particular in the form of an anhydrous stick, the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.

 The level of dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 is chosen according to the hardness of the gel or stick desired and according to the particular application envisaged.

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The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The quantities are given in percentage by mass.

Example 1: An anhydrous foundation was prepared having the following composition: - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl # TL) 5.3 - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl KL) 5.3 - Isododecane qsp 100 - Isohexadecane 15 - Isononanoate isononyl 13.3 - Microcrystalline wax 3.2 - Polymethyl methacrylate 15 - Kaolin 3 - Talc 3 - Nylon-12 powder 8.5 - Hydrophobic coated iron oxides 1.8 - Hydrophobic coated titanium dioxide 6.7
The composition is prepared by mixing microcrystalline wax, isononyl isononanoate and dextrin palmitates at 85 ° C .; then without heating, the mixture of pigments and isohexadecane previously ground is added. Then, at room temperature, the isododecane and the fillers are added.

 A foundation is obtained which is stable at 45 ° C. for 2 months. This foundation when applied to the skin has a melting texture and forms a thin, non-sticky film. The makeup deposited on the skin exhibits good color homogeneity.

Example 2:
An anhydrous foundation was prepared having the following composition: - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl # TL) 4.8 - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl # KL) 4.8 - Isododecane qsp 100 -Isohexadecane 15 - Isononyl isononanoate 16 , 2 - Microcrystalline wax 3.2

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 - Polymethyl methacrylate 7.3 - Pyrogenic silica 2.3 - Lauroyl lysine 5 - Polyurethane-silica powder sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400 by Toshiki) 8 - Polymethylsilsesquioxane microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearl) 5.2 - Hydrophobic coated iron oxides 2.1 - Hydrophobic coated titanium dioxide 6.3 The foundation has good stability at 45 C for 2 months. It is easily applied to the face, giving a melting effect and forms a thin, non-sticky, homogeneous film.

Claims (42)

CLAIMS 1. Non-transparent composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, gelled or thickened with a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one dextrin and fatty acid ester, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin esters forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (1):

 in which: - the radicals R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 with 50 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (II):

 in which: - the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R- <Desc / Clms Page number 19>  CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150. 4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that R is a carbon group having 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and better still 12 to 18 carbon atoms. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that n is an integer between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester with a degree of substitution greater than 2 corresponds to formula (III):

 in which: - the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R 'is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the said radicals R'1, R'2 or R'3 is different from hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150. 7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that R 'has from 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22, and better still 12 to 18 carbon atoms. 8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that n is an integer between 10 and 100, and preferably between 15 and 40. 9. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that R-CO or R'-CO- is chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyle, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, ethyl- 2 butyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, <Desc / Clms Page number 20>  isotridecanyl, isomyristyle, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyle, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, stolenyl and arachidon. 10. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that the radical R or R 'is linear. 11. Composition according to claim one of claims 2 to 10, characterized in that R-CO- or R'-CO- is the palmityl radical. 12. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 11, characterized in that n is an integer ranging from 25 to 35.  13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid of degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, is between 10,000 and 30,000, preferably between 15,000 and 20,000.  14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the degree of substitution of the dextrin ester and of fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, is lower to 1.9, preferably less than 1.8, more preferably between 1.5 and 1.7.  15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin ester, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2, has a degree of substitution of between 2.1 and 2.3.  16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is present in an amount ranging from 4 % to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 4% to 10% by weight.  17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture of dextrin esters is present in an amount less than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 9 % to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 9% to 25% by weight.  18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 and the dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 are in relative mass proportions varying from 1/10 to 2/1, preferably from 1/8 to 3/2, <Desc / Clms Page number 21>  more preferably from 1/2 to 3/2, and preferably from 0.8 to 1.2, and more preferably from 0.9 to 1.1. 19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises an oil. 20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile organic oil. 21. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile organic oil is chosen from octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. 22. Composition according to one of claims 20 or 21, characterized in that the volatile organic oil represents from 0.1% 80% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 60%, and better still from 5% 50%.  23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a non-volatile oil.  24. Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight.  25. Composition according to any one of claims 19 to 24, characterized in that it comprises from 5% to 95% by weight of oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 20% to 75 % by weight, and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight.  26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a fatty substance chosen from waxes, gums, pasty fatty substances, and their mixtures.  27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one filler.  28. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the filler is chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, laponite, polyamide powders, poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders <Desc / Clms Page number 22>  tetrafluoroethylene polymers, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres, acrylic polymer particles, polyurethane powders, silicone resin microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate , magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and their mixtures. 29. Composition according to claim 27 or 28, characterized in that the filler is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40 % by weight, and better ranging from 1 to 35% by weight. 30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring material. 31. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.  32. Composition according to claim 30 or 31, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in an amount of 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 35% and better still from 5 to 25%.  33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a particulate phase present in a content ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10 % to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, the particulate phase comprising a particulate material chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres.  34. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.  35. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion.  36. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials.  37. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow, <Desc / Clms Page number 23>  lipstick, mascara, eyeliner. 38. Foundation comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35. 39. Process for making up or for non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 40. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 38 to obtain a deposit, in particular a make-up, homogeneous and / or comfortable on keratin materials. 41. Use of a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one dextrin and fatty acid ester the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one dextrin ester and d fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a non-transparent composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, to thicken or gel the composition and / or to limit the exudation of the composition , and / or to limit the migration of the composition and / or to obtain a stable composition and / or to obtain a comfortable and / or homogeneous deposit on the keratin materials and / or to obtain a composition which is easily applied to the materials keratin.  42. Use of a sufficient quantity of a mixture containing at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and at least one ester of dextrin and d fatty acid, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, in a non-transparent composition containing a liquid fatty phase and pigments, to improve the homogeneity of the deposit of the composition, in particular the homogeneity of its color and / or to obtain a stable composition and / or to obtain a composition which is easily applied to keratin materials.