EP1529513A1 - Make-up composition on emulsion basis comprising non-ionic and ionic surface active agent and solid particles - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic process for make-up of keratin materials (especially the skin) involves application of an oil-in-water emulsion composition (A), containing a surfactant system including nonionic surfactant(s) (I) and ionic surfactants (II) having dynamic interfacial tension 7 mN/m or less and solid particles (III) dispersed in the aqueous phase, provided that (i) (A) is stable after storage for 2 months at 45[deg]C or (ii) the number average particle size of (III) is 10 mu m or less. Independent claims are included for: (1) the compositions (A) as new, provided that: (a) the oil droplet size is 500 nm or less, (b) (III) comprise pigment(s) selected from iron, zinc, zirconium and cerium oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with iron oxide, ferric blue or chromium oxide and/or organic pigments; (c) the oil phase forms at least 20 wt. % of (A); (d) (A) additionally contains an associative polyurethane as nonionic aqueous thickener; or (e) (I) comprises ethoxylated fatty ester(s) containing 10-80 ethylene oxide (EO) units plus sorbitan fatty acid ester(s); and (2) the production of a make-up composition, involving preparing an emulsion by mixing an aqueous phase and an oil phase under vigorous agitation at 60-95[deg]C then homogenizing under a pressure of 60-180 MPa; preparing a pigment paste by dispersing solid particles in an aqueous phase in presence of (II); and introducing the paste into the emulsion under moderate stirring while maintaining the emulsion structure of the composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a makeup composition comprising a emulsion based on a system of surfactants and dispersed solid particles.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing said composition and its use for the makeup of keratin materials, especially the skin.

Nanoemulsions are oil-in-water emulsions including oil globules have a very fine particle size, that is to say an average size in number, less than 500 nanometers (nm). They are usually made by mechanical fragmentation of an oily phase in an aqueous phase presence of surfactants. In the case of nanoemulsions, the small size of oily globules is obtained in particular thanks to at least one passage in a high pressure homogenizer. The small size of the globules gives them cosmetically interesting properties that distinguish them from emulsions classic: they are translucent, even transparent and have a texture original. They can also convey assets more efficiently.

Nanoemulsions comprising a phase are known in the state of the art. amphiphilic lipid consisting of phospholipids, water and oil. These emulsions have the disadvantage of being unstable at storage temperatures traditional preservation, ie between 0 and 45 ° C. They lead to yellow compositions and produce rancid smells that develop after a few days of conservation.

Nanoemulsions stabilized by a crystal coating are also known. lamellar liquid obtained by the combination of a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant. However, these associations are difficult to determine. Of Moreover, the nanoemulsions obtained have a waxy, film-forming feel, nice for the user.

• un tensioactif non ionique sélectionné parmi les esters gras de polyéthylène glycol ou de sorbitol ;
• un tensioactif ionique, dont le dicétylphosphate de potassium.

Application EP-A-728,460 describes nanoemulsions containing two types of surfactants:

• a nonionic surfactant selected from fatty esters of polyethylene glycol or sorbitol;
• an ionic surfactant, including potassium dicetylphosphate.

The application WO 02/056843 describes a translucent nanoemulsion comprising a ternary system of surfactants, usable in particular as a composition of skin makeup. This nanoemulsion is obtained by homogenization at high pressure of the emulsion. However, the introduction of such solid particles than pigments such as iron oxides or titanium dioxides, or else more charges in the nanoemulsion pose several problems. Indeed, he it is not possible to introduce solid particles (pigments or fillers) during the manufacture of the nanoemulsion because these particles damage the Homogenization cell of the high pressure homogenizer. On the other hand, he is necessary to grind the finest possible pigments to avoid the presence of clusters (or aggregates) of pigments in the composition, these clusters of pigments being harmful to obtaining a good color (developed color) make-up. But the grinding technique is not compatible with the nanoemulsion because the latter is totally destroyed by mechanical effects grinding: it is therefore not possible to grind the pigments with the nanoemulsion. Moreover, the direct introduction of pigments or fillers in the nanoemulsion lowers the viscosity of the nanoemulsion and the pigments and / or fillers sediment in the composition: solid particles (pigments or fillers) are no longer homogeneously distributed in the composition; the composition is therefore not stable and is inappropriate as a product of makeup since it does not allow to obtain a homogeneous makeup. A Therefore, there is a need to be able to introduce pigments or fillers into a emulsion, in particular a nanoemulsion, satisfactorily.

The present invention aims to provide a make-up composition comprising an emulsion, in particular a nanoemulsion, and particles solids (in particular pigments, fillers) dispersed homogeneously.

The aim of the invention is also to provide a pigmented composition of make-up comprising an emulsion, in particular a nanoemulsion, which is stable storage, especially after storage for two months at 45 ° C.

The inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain a stable composition of makeup by introducing solid particles (pigments or fillers) previously dispersed in water using specific ionic surfactants, after the formation of the emulsion, especially the nanoemulsion.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce que l'émulsion a des globules d'huile dont la taille moyenne en nombre est inférieure ou égale à 500 nm et qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C.

More precisely, the subject of the present invention is therefore a makeup composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 500 nm and that it contains a system of surfactants comprising :

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion such that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce que l'émulsion a des globules d'huile dont la taille moyenne en nombre est inférieure ou égale à 500 nm et qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique ; et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 500 nm and that it contains a system of surfactants comprising :

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C, les particules solides comprenant au moins un pigment choisi parmi les oxydes de fer, les oxydes de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium, les oxydes de cérium, le mica recouvert de dioxyde de titane, le mica recouvert d'oxychlorure de bismuth, le mica titane recouvert d'oxyde de fer, le mica-titane recouvert de bleu ferrique, le mica titane recouvert d'oxyde de chrome, les pigments organiques et leurs mélanges.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C, the solid particles comprising at least one pigment selected from iron oxides, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, iron oxide coated titanium mica, ferric blue coated mica-titanium , titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic pigments and mixtures thereof.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique ; et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm, les particules solides comprenant au moins un pigment choisi parmi les oxydes de fer, les oxydes de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium, les oxydes de cérium, le mica recouvert de dioxyde de titane, le mica recouvert d'oxychlorure de bismuth, le mica titane recouvert d'oxyde de fer, le mica-titane recouvert de bleu ferrique, le mica titane recouvert d'oxyde de chrome, les pigments organiques, et leurs mélanges.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm, the solid particles comprising at least one pigment chosen from iron oxides, zinc oxides, oxides of zirconium, cerium oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C,

iii) et la phase huileuse représentant au moins 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C,

iii) and the oily phase representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique ; et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm,

iii) et la phase huileuse représentant au moins 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm,

iii) and the oily phase representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C,

iii) et un épaississant aqueux non ionique choisi parmi les polyuréthanes associatifs.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C,

iii) and an aqueous nonionic thickener selected from associative polyurethanes.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique ; et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm

iii) et un épaississant aqueux non ionique choisi parmi les polyuréthanes associatifs.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm

iii) and an aqueous nonionic thickener selected from associative polyurethanes.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique comprenant au moins un ester gras éthoxylé comportant de 10 à 80 unités d'oxyde d'éthylène et au moins un ester d'acide gras de sorbitane, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty ester comprising from 10 to 80 ethylene oxide units and at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion such that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C.

i) une émulsion comportant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un système de tensioactifs comprenant :

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique comprenant au moins un ester gras éthoxylé comportant de 10 à 80 unités d'oxyde d'éthylène et au moins un ester d'acide gras de sorbitane, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm.

The subject of the invention is also a make-up composition comprising:

i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty ester comprising from 10 to 80 ethylene oxide units and at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm.

(a) au moins un tensioactif non ionique, et

(b) au moins un tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure ou égale à 7 millinewton/mètre,

ii) des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion de telle sorte que la composition de maquillage est stable après un stockage de deux mois à 45 °C ou des particules solides dispersées dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion et ayant une taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 10 µm.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials, in particular on the skin, a makeup composition comprising:

(a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and

(b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter,

ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the make-up composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C or solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a average size less than or equal to 10 μm.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the makeup of materials keratin, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.

Stable composition is understood to mean a stable composition after storage for two months at 45 ° C., preferably also stable after storage for two months at room temperature (25 ° C.), and better also stable after storage for two months at 4 ° C. ° C.
A stable composition is, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition having a homogeneous dispersion of the pigments, that is to say a composition which does not contain aggregates of pigments visible to the naked eye when the make-up composition is applied on keratin materials, especially on the skin. The makeup has a homogeneous color without leaving traces, streaks of color.

In addition, the pigments are well distributed in the composition, thus allowing to obtain a makeup product having a homogeneous color during its application on keratinous substances, in particular on the skin.

Moreover, the pigments are incorporated into the composition while preserving the cosmetic properties of the emulsion, in particular the nanoemulsion: composition has in particular good moisturizing properties for the skin.

Advantageously, the emulsion has oil globules having a mean size of less than or equal to 1 μm (in particular from 500 nm to 1 μm), preferably less than or equal to 500 nm (in particular ranging from 50 nm to 500 nm), preferably less than or equal to 300 nm (in particular ranging from 50 nm to 300 nm), more preferably less than or equal to 200 nm (in particular from 50 nm to 200 nm), and especially ranging from 50 to 150 nm. This size of globules can be measured for example with a BROOKHAVEN BI 90 and determined according to the known method of "quasi-elastic diffusion of the light. The decrease in the size of the globules makes it possible to concentration of active ingredients in the superficial layers of the skin (effect vehicle).

The surfactant system that can be used in the emulsion of the invention comprises as indicated above, at least one nonionic surfactant (a).

The nonionic surfactant may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 2 % to 6% by weight.

The nonionic surfactant may be chosen from ethoxylated fatty esters comprising 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and their mixtures.

The esters of the nonionic surfactant (a) generally comprise a chain fat having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of esters can be chosen in particular from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.

The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to at 80, and better from 20 to 60. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number is 40.

By way of example of an ethoxylated fatty ester having 40 ethylene oxide units, it is possible to mention the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (stearate of polyethylene glycol 40 EO; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company Uniqema.

As an example of sorbitan fatty acid ester, mention may be made of tristearate of sorbitan.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant (a) is a mixture comprising at least minus an ethoxylated fatty ester containing 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 10 to 80 units of ethylene oxide, and at least one fatty acid ester of sorbitan.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant (a) is a mixture comprising an ester ethoxylated fatty acid, in particular PEG-40 stearate, and a sorbitan ester, particularly sorbitan tristearate. In general, the weight ratio of the ester ethoxylated fatty acid 8 to 100 EO (preferably 10 to 80 EO) to the sorbitan ester of mixture (a) ranges from 0.02 to 100, preferably from 0.04 to 80.

In general, the ethoxylated fatty ester 8 to 100 OE represents 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3%, by weight total of the composition.

The sorbitan fatty acid ester is generally 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The surfactant system comprises at least one ionic surfactant (b) having a dynamic interfacial tension less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter.

The dynamic interfacial tension of a surfactant is determined according to protocol described below.

As ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewton / meter, mention may be made of the alkaline salts of cetylphosphate, the salts alkalis of palmitoyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof. The alkaline salts are for example, sodium salts, potassium salts. Ionic surfactants preferred are selected from potassium cetylphosphate, palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the weight ratio of component (b) to component (a) of the system surfactants range from 0.02 to 75, preferably from 0.02 to 10.

The ionic surfactant content may range from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 5% and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase. Typically, the weight ratio of the surfactant system to the oily phase ranges from 6 × 10 ^-3 to 60, preferably from 0.4 to 19.

Generally, the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 40% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

Advantageously, the oily phase represents at least 20% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, and especially from 20% to 40% by weight.

The oily phase of the emulsion according to the invention contains at least one oil which can be chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, oils minerals, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbons especially aliphatic, and mixtures thereof. These oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile.

• les huiles végétales hydrocarbonées à forte teneur en triglycéride constituées d'ester d'acide gras et de glycérol dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaínes variées, ces dernières pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiées, saturées ou insaturées ; ces huiles sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de maïs, de tournesol, de karité, de ricin, d'amandes douces, de macadamia, d'abricot, de soja, de colza, de coton, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, d'avocat, de noisette, de pépin de raisin ou de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, d'olive, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ou encore les triglycérides des acides capryliques / capriques comme ceux vendus par la société STEARINERIES DUBOIS ou ceux vendus sous une dénomination MIGLYOL 810, 812 et 818 par la société DYNAMIT NOBEL ;
  • les huiles de synthèse de formule R¹COOR², dans laquelle R¹ représente le reste d'un acide gras supérieur, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 7 à 19 atomes de carbone, et R² représente une chaíne hydrocarbonée ramifiée contenant de 3 à 20 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétostéaryle), l'isononoate d'isononyle, les benzoates d'alkyle (en C₁₂ à C₁₅) ;
  • les esters et les éthers de synthèse comme le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, les octanoates, les décanoates ou les ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools ;
  • les esters hydroxylés comme le lactate d'isostéaryle, le malate de di-isostéaryle, et les esters de pentaérythritol.

Among the polar oils, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based oils comprising ester, ether, acid or alcohol functions, or mixtures thereof, such as, for example:

• hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid ester and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various lengths of chains, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passionflower, rose hip muscat or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the name MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL;
  • synthetic oils of formula R ¹ COOR ² , in which R ¹ represents the residue of a higher linear or branched fatty acid containing 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononate, (C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ ) alkyl benzoates;
  • esters and synthetic ethers such as isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols;
  • hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, and pentaerythritol esters.

• les huiles de silicones volatiles ou non, linéaires ou cycliques, liquides à température ambiante, telles que les polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendants et/ou en bout de chaíne siliconée et ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées, comme les phényl triméthicones, les phényl diméthicones, les phényl triméthylsiloxy diphénylsiloxanes, les diphényl diméthicones, les diphényl méthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyl triméthylsiloxysilicates,
• les hydrocarbures ou les hydrocarbures fluorés/ou fluorocarbures, linéaires ou ramifiés d'origine synthétique ou minérale, comme les huiles volatiles, telles que les huiles de paraffine (par exemple les isoparaffines), et les hydrocarbures aliphatiques (par exemple l'isododécane), ou non volatiles et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam, le squalane, et leurs mélanges.

Among the apolar oils, mention may be made of:

• volatile or nonvolatile linear or cyclic silicone oils which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and / or at the end of the silicone chain and which have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, carbon; phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates,
• hydrocarbons or fluorinated hydrocarbons / or fluorocarbons, linear or branched of synthetic or mineral origin, such as volatile oils, such as paraffin oils (for example isoparaffins), and aliphatic hydrocarbons (for example isododecane), or non-volatile and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

The oily phase may also comprise fats other than oils above, such as one or more fatty alcohols such as alcohols stearyl, cetyl, behenic, fatty acids such as stearyl acids, palmitic and behenic, waxes such as mono, di-, glyceryl tri stearate, glyceryl mono-, di-, tri-palmitate, gums and mixtures thereof.

When present, this other fatty substance, preferably cetyl alcohol, may represent from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, by weight total emulsion.

The composition according to the invention comprises solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.

The solid particles may be chosen from pigments, fillers, and their mixtures. Advantageously, the solid particles comprise at least pigments.

The solid particles present in the composition according to the invention are advantageously dispersed in the form of particles having an average size less than or equal to 10 μm (in particular from 0.5 μm to 10 μm), preferably less than or equal to 5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.5 μm to 5 μm), and preferably less than or equal to 2 microns (in particular ranging from 0.5 microns to 2 microns).

The size of the solid particles dispersed in the composition can be measured with a granulometer type FPIA 2100 sold by the company MALVERN. The sample of the composition used to make the measurement is diluted in water so that the granulometer detects at most 30,000 particles.

The solid particles dispersed in the composition may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, preferentially ranging from 3% to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 5% to 10% by weight. weight.

The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, pigments organic and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

The inorganic pigments can be chosen from oxide pigments metallic, mica coated with titanium dioxide, mica coated with oxychloride bismuth, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

The metal oxide pigments are, for example, iron oxides, carbon dioxide titanium, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, and their mixtures. The mineral pigments are preferably oxide pigments metallic.

Advantageously, the inorganic pigments are chosen from iron oxides, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, mica covered with titanium dioxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, Titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, the titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic pigments and their mixtures.

The composition may further comprise titanium dioxide.

• le carmin de cochenille,
• les pigments organiques de colorants azoïques, anthraquinoniques, indigoïdes, xanthéniques, pyréniques, quinoliniques, de triphénylméthane, de fluorane ;
• les laques organiques ou sels insolubles de sodium, de potassium, de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium, de zirconium, de strontium, de titane, de colorants acides tels que les colorants azoïques, anthraquinoniques, indigoïdes, xanthéniques, pyréniques, quinoliniques, de triphénylméthane, de fluorane. Ces colorants comportent généralement au moins un groupe acide carboxylique ou sulfonique ;
• les pigments mélaniques.

The organic particles intended to be coated can be for example:

• carmine of cochineal,
• organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes;
• organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane, fluoran. These dyes generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group;
• the melanic pigments.

The organic lacquer may also be supported by any compatible support such as a mineral support such as particles of alumina, clay, zirconia or metal oxides, in particular zinc oxide or titanium oxide, talc, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate. Preferably, the inorganic support is chosen from alumina, titanium oxide and barium sulfate.
Organic lacquer may also be supported by a carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.
Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10 , D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. ° 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6.

D & C Red n° 2 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 3 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 6 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 6 Barium lake

D & C Red n° 6 Barium/Strontium lake

D & C Red n° 6 Strontium lake

D & C Red n° 6 Potassium lake

D & C Red n° 7 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 7 Barium lake

D & C Red n° 7 Calcium lake

D & C Red n° 7 Calcium/strontium lake

D & C Red n° 7 Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 8 Sodium lake

D & C Red n° 9 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 9 Barium lake

D & C Red n° 9 Barium/Strontium lake

D & C Red n° 9 Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 10 Sodium lake

D & C Red n° 19 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 19 Barium lake

D & C Red n° 19 Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 21 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 21 Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 22 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 27 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 27 Barium lake

D & C Red n° 27 Calcium lake

D & C Red n° 27 Zirconium lake

D & C Red n° 28 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 30 lake

D & C Red n° 31 Calcium lake

D & C Red n° 33 Aluminium lake

D & C Red n° 34 Calcium lake

D & C Red n° 36 lake

D & C Red n° 40 Aluminium lake

D & C Blue n° 1 Aluminium lake

D & C Green n° 3 Aluminium lake

D & C Orange n° 4 Aluminium lake

D & C Orange n° 5 Aluminium lake

D & C Orange n° 5 Zirconium lake

D & C Orange n° 10 Aluminium lake

D & C Orange n° 17 Barium lake

D & C Yellow n° 5 Aluminium lake

D & C Yellow n° 5 Zirconium lake

D & C Yellow n° 6 Aluminium lake

D & C Yellow n° 7 Zirconium lake

D & C Yellow n° 10 Aluminium Lake

FD & C Blue n° 1 Aluminium lake

FD & C Red n° 4 Aluminium lake

FD & C Red n° 40 Aluminium lake

FD & C Yellow n° 5 Aluminium lake

FD & C Yellow n° 6 Aluminium lake

Les composés chimiques correspondant à chacun des pigments organiques cités précédemment sont mentionnés dans l'ouvrage « International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook », Edition 1997, pages 371 à 386 et 524 à 528, publié par « The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association », dont le contenu est incorporé dans la présente demande à titre de référence.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names:

D & C Red # 2 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 3 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red No. 6 Barium Lake

D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake

D & C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake

D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake

D & C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red No. 7 Barium Lake

D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake

D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake

D & C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake

D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake

D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake

D & C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake

D & C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake

D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake

D & C Red # 19 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake

D & C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake

D & C Red # 21 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 21 Zirconium Lake

D & C Red # 22 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 27 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake

D & C Red No. 27 Barium Lake

D & C Red # 27 Calcium Lake

D & C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake

D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 30 lake

D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake

D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake

D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake

D & C Red # 36 Lake

D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake

D & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake

D & C Green # 3 Aluminum Lake

D & C Orange # 4 Aluminum Lake

D & C Orange # 5 Aluminum Lake

D & C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake

D & C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake

D & C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake

D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake

D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium lake

D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake

D & C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake

D & C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake

FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake

FD & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake

FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake

FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake

FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake

The chemical compounds corresponding to each of the organic pigments mentioned above are mentioned in the book "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association" , the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

• les pigments mélaniques dérivés de sources naturelles ou synthétiques et qui peuvent être obtenus : (A) par oxydation d'au moins un composé indolique ou indolinique, ou (B) par polymérisation, oxydante ou enzymatique, de précurseurs mélaniques, ou (C) par extraction de la mélanine à partir de substances en contenant, ou (D) par culture de microorganismes. De tels pigments mélaniques sont notamment décrits dans les documents EP-A-518773, WO-A-93/13744 et WO-A-93/13745.

The melanic pigments that can be used according to the invention are in particular:

• melanin pigments derived from natural or synthetic sources and which can be obtained: (A) by oxidation of at least one indole or indolinic compound, or (B) by polymerization, oxidizing or enzymatic, of melanic precursors, or (C) by extracting melanin from substances containing it, or (D) by culturing microorganisms. Such melanin pigments are in particular described in documents EP-A-518773, WO-A-93/13744 and WO-A-93/13745.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1 to 12% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3 to 8% in weight.

Solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the composition can also be charges. By charges, it is necessary to understand particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the middle of the composition whatever the temperature at which composition is manufactured.

The charges may be chosen in particular from mineral fillers or organic, of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever either the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders may be mentioned of polyamide (Nylon®), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, the powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, nitride boron, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), copolymers of acrylic acid, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydro-carbonate magnesium, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic acids carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1 to 12% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2 to 8% by weight.

Solid particles, especially pigments, fillers, are advantageously dispersed in the aqueous phase of the composition presence of an ionic surfactant (also known as a dispersing surfactant) having a dynamic interfacial tension less than 7 millinewtons / meter.

The ionic dispersing surfactant is preferably an anionic surfactant.

As dispersing ionic surfactant having dynamic interfacial tension less than 7 millinewtons / meter, mention may be made of the alkaline salts of cetyl phosphate, the alkaline salts of palmitoyl sarcosinate and mixtures thereof. The alkali salts are, for example, sodium salts, potassium salts. The Preferred surfactants are chosen from potassium cetylphosphate, palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the solid particles are dispersed beforehand with the dispersive ionic surfactant having lower dynamic interfacial tension at 7 millinewtons / meter in a fraction of the aqueous phase of the composition to form a pigment paste, the latter being added to the emulsion prepared in advance, in accordance with the process for the preparation of the composition described later.

The ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewton / meter to disperse solid particles is present in the composition in an amount effective to provide a composition pigmented stable. In practice, this amount can range from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5 to 1.8% by weight.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous nonionic thickener. This thickener promotes the good stability of the composition.

• les polymères de cellulose tels que l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, la méthylcellulose, l'hydroxypropylcellulose. Parmi celles-ci, on peut citer notamment les gommes vendues sous la dénomination de "Cellosize QP 4400 H" par la Société Amercol,
• les gommes de guar non-ioniques comprenant des groupements hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₆. On peut mentionner à titre d'exemple, les groupements hydroxyméthyle, hydroxyéthyle, hydroxypropyle et hydroxybutyle. De telles gommes de guar sont notamment vendues sous les dénominations commerciales JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 et JAGUAR HP120 et JAGUAR HP 105 par la société MEYHALL, ou sous la dénomination GALACTASOL 40H4FD2 par la société AQUALON.
• les carraghénanes ;
• les gommes de caroube, de scléroglucane, de gellane, de rhamsan, de karaya,
• les polymères vinyliques, comme les polyvinylpyrrolidones, les copolymères de l'éther méthylvinylique et de l'anhydride malique, les copolymères de vinylpyrrolidone et d'acétate de vinyle ; les copolymères de vinylpyrrolidone et de caprolactame ; l'alcool polyvinylique ;
• les polymères associatifs et notamment les polyuréthanes associatifs ;
• et leurs mélanges.

The nonionic aqueous thickener may be chosen from:

• cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose. Among these, mention may be made in particular of the gums sold under the name "Cellosize QP 4400 H" by the Amercol Company,
• nonionic guar gums comprising C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups. By way of example, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. Such guar gums are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 and Jaguar HP 105 by Meyhall, or under the name GALACTASOL 40H4FD2 by AQUALON.
• carrageenans;
• carob, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan, karaya gum
• vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
• associative polymers and especially associative polyurethanes;
• and their mixtures.

The thickening agent is preferably an associative polyurethane.

The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.
In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from C ₆ to C ₃₀ carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polymers can be sequenced as triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at a time at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). The polymers may also be graft or star.

Preferably, the polymers are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
By way of example, associative polymers that can be used in the invention include the polymer C ₁₆ -OE ₁₂₀ -C ₁₆ sold by the company HULS (under the name Sérad FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight 1300), EO being an oxyethylenated unit. As an associative polymer, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by the company Rheox or else the Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.

The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic environment. By way of example, such polymers can mention, the Serad FX1010, the Serad FX1035 and the Serad 1070 sold by the HULS company, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the RHEOX company. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J, or still the Borchigel LW 44 of the BORCHERS company.

The polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).

The aqueous nonionic thickener may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight.

The composition according to the invention generally has the consistency of a gel or a cream. The viscosity of the composition can range from 1 to 70 poise (0.1 to 7 Pa.s), preferably from 5 to 50 poise (0.5 to 5 Pa.s), the viscosity being measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat 180 viscometer (mobile 3).

The composition according to the invention may comprise other ingredients common cosmetics which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

The composition according to the invention may contain water-soluble active ingredients or liposoluble having a cosmetic or dermatological activity.

Fat-soluble active ingredients are in the oily globules of the emulsion, while Water-soluble actives are in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. We can mention As examples of active ingredients, vitamins, such as vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin PP and their derivatives and, in particular, their esters, provitamines such as panthenol, humectants and sunscreens.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by the fact that it is in the form of a foundation, a product of make-up of the lips (lipstick or gloss), an eyeshadow, a make-up cheeks, a concealer, a body make-up product, an eyeliner, a mascara.

i) une première étape de préparation :

a) d'une émulsion, notamment d'une nanoémulsion, en mélangeant la phase aqueuse et la phase huileuse sous agitation vive, à une température allant de 60 à 95°C, puis à effectuer une homogénéisation à une pression allant, de préférence, de 4.10⁷ Pa à 18.10⁷ Pa et notamment allant de 6.10⁷ Pa à 18.10⁷ Pa (homogénéisation haute pression) ;

b) d'une pâte pigmentaire en dispersant dans une phase aqueuse des particules solides, notamment des pigments ou des charges, en présence de tensioactif ionique ayant une tension interfaciale dynamique inférieure à 7 millinewton/mètre ;

ii) d'une deuxième étape d'introduction de la pâte pigmentaire dans l'émulsion sous agitation modérée de telle sorte à conserver la structure de l'émulsion de la composition.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing a makeup composition as defined above, which method comprises:

i) a first preparation step:

a) an emulsion, in particular a nanoemulsion, by mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase with vigorous stirring, at a temperature ranging from 60 to 95 ° C., and then homogenizing at a pressure which preferably ranges from from 4.10 ⁷ Pa to 18.10 ⁷ Pa and especially ranging from 6.10 ⁷ Pa to 18.10 ⁷ Pa (high pressure homogenization);

b) a pigment paste by dispersing in an aqueous phase solid particles, in particular pigments or fillers, in the presence of ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter;

ii) a second step of introducing the pigment paste into the emulsion with moderate stirring so as to maintain the structure of the emulsion of the composition.

The pigment paste advantageously comprises from 15% to 75% by weight per relative to the total weight of the pigment paste, preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, of pigments and from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight. weight of said ionic surfactant.

The following examples will help to better understand the invention without however, be limiting in nature. In the examples, unless otherwise indicated on the contrary, the percentages and parts are expressed by weight.

Method for measuring the dynamic interfacial tension of a surfactant :

V représente le volume de la goutte exprimé en cm³

ρ_H représente la densité du mélange eau + tensioactif, exprimée en g/cm³

ρ_L représente la densité de l'huile, exprimée en g/cm³

g représente l'accélération de la pesanteur et a pour valeur 9,8 m/s²

d représente le diamètre de l'orifice du capillaire exprimé en mètre

ρ_H et ρ_L sont mesurées de façon classique à l'aide d'un densimètre
σ_i est exprimé en mN/m.The dynamic interfacial tension of the surfactant is measured using a tensiometer, for example the tensiometer sold under the name Drop volume tensiometer model DVT-10 by the company KRUSS.
A sample of a water + surfactant mixture containing 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture, of surfactant is placed in a tube at the bottom of which is connected a capillary tube connected to a precision syringe containing an oil. (The chosen oil generally corresponds to the majority oil present in the composition according to the invention, in the composition examples mentioned below, the majority oil is hydrogenated polyisobutene or Parleam oil). The filled tube is placed in a water bath at 70 ° C so that the water + surfactant mixture is not opaque. A worm activates the syringe to push the oil into the capillary at a constant rate of 1 ml / h. At the orifice of the capillary (orifice of a diameter d), a drop of oil is formed then detached and rises to the surface of the water + surfactant mixture.
A luminescent electronic diode and a photodiode, positioned on the tube, detect the drops of oil that are detached from the capillary.
The time elapsed between the formation of 2 consecutive drops is measured using a stopwatch. Since the flow rate is constant, the time is then converted to determine the volume of each drop, this volume being directly dependent on the dynamic interfacial tension σ _i . The latter is then calculated using the following equation: σ i = V (ρ H - ρ The ) g / Π d in which :

V represents the volume of the drop expressed in cm ³

ρ _H represents the density of the water + surfactant mixture, expressed in g / cm ³

ρ _L represents the density of the oil, expressed in g / cm ³

g represents the acceleration of gravity and has a value of 9.8 m / s ²

d represents the diameter of the capillary orifice expressed in meters

ρ _H and ρ _L are measured conventionally using a hydrometer
σ _i is expressed in mN / m.

10 time intervals between 2 drops are measured and the result obtained is a average of these 10 measurements.

This process applies for surfactants soluble in water at temperature of 70 ° C, that is, the water + surfactant mixture is not opaque at 70 ° C.

When the surfactant is insoluble in water, the process is reversed, i.e. that the surfactant is first mixed with the oil and the syringe is filled with water.

Examples of compositions :

The nanoemulsions of Examples 1 and 2 below were obtained by forming a coarse pre-emulsion at the rotor-stator, adding the aqueous phase A to the oily phase B at 80 ° C. The premix was then passed five times in a high pressure homogenizer (Soavi type OBL 20) with a first stage pressure of 4 x 10 ⁷ Pa (1100 bar) and a second stage pressure of 7 x 10 ⁶ Pa (120 bar). , with cooling to 70 ° C output.

Example 1

A nanoemulsion having the following composition was prepared: AT water 60.05% methylparaben 0.2% B Sorbitan tristearate (1) 1% Cetyl alcohol 4.7% Glyceryl stearate (2) 3.9% Polyethylene glycol stearate (40 EO) 2.22% Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parléam Oil) 13.5% Isononyl isononanoate 13.5% Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.83% propylparaben 0.1% (1) UNIQUEMA SPAN 65 V (2) GLYCERYLE CODEX STEARATE from Stéarinerie Dubois

Example 2

A nanoemulsion having the following composition was prepared: AT water 60.56% methylparaben 0.2% B Sorbitan tristearate (1) 1.28% Cetyl alcohol 5.72% Glyceryl stearate (2) 4.71% Polyethylene glycol stearate (40 EO) 2.86% Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parléam Oil) 23.6% Potassium cetyl phosphate 1.07% (1) UNIQUEMA SPAN 65 V (2) GLYCERYLE CODEX STEARATE from Stéarinerie Dubois

Example 3

A nanoemulsion having the following composition was prepared: AT water 60.75% methylparaben 0.2% B Sorbitan tristearate 1% Cetyl alcohol 4% Glyceryl stearate 3.9% Polyethylene glycol stearate (40 EO) 2.22% Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parléam Oil) 10% Di-isostearyl malate 10% Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.83% propylparaben 0.1% dimethicone 7%

The nanoemulsions of Examples 1 to 3 according to the invention have the consistency of a gel and its stable even after two months of accelerated aging at 4 ° C, room temperature, and at 45 ° C.

Example 4

a) A pigment paste having the following composition was prepared: Titanium dioxide 20% Yellow iron oxides 4.7% Brown iron oxides 4% Black iron oxides 1% Palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate 2.5% Water 67.8% All the ingredients are mixed at ambient temperature and then the mixture is treated with a ball mill for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. at a speed of 1200 rpm. A stable and homogeneous pigment paste is then obtained.

b) A foundation was prepared having the following composition: Nanoemulsion of Example 1 90% Pigment paste according to a) 10%

The pigment paste is dispersed in the nanoemulsion by stirring with a pale straight at 400 rpm.

A fluid foundation is obtained having a viscosity of 6.5 poise (0.65 Pa.s) measured at 25 ° C. using Rhéomat 180 equipped with mobile No. 3, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile.
This foundation is stable storage for 2 months at 45 ° C, has a light texture to the touch as when applied on the skin. After application, the foundation is comfortable, moisturizes and softens the skin.

Example 5

a) A pigment paste having the following composition was prepared: Titanium dioxide 22.46% Yellow iron oxides 5.24% Brown iron oxides 4.5% Black iron oxides 1.14% Palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate 2.5% Water 64.16% All the ingredients are mixed at ambient temperature and then the mixture is treated with a ball mill for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. at a speed of 1200 rpm. A stable and homogeneous pigment paste is then obtained.

b) A foundation was prepared having the following composition: Nanoemulsion of Example 2 70% Pigment paste according to a) 30 %

The pigment paste is dispersed in the nanoemulsion by stirring with a pale straight at 400 rpm.

A fluid foundation is obtained having a viscosity of 8 poises (0.8 Pa.s) measured at 25 ° C using Rhéomat 180 equipped with mobile No. 3, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile.

This foundation is stable in storage for 2 months at 45 ° C, presents a light texture both to the touch and when applied to the skin. After application, the foundation is comfortable, moisturizes and softened the skin.

Example 6

a) A pigment paste having the following composition was prepared: Titanium dioxide 22.46% Yellow iron oxides 5.24% Brown iron oxides 4.5% Black iron oxides 1.14% Palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate 2.5% Water 64.16% All the ingredients are mixed at ambient temperature and then the mixture is treated with a ball mill for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. at a speed of 1200 rpm. A stable and homogeneous pigment paste is then obtained.

b) A foundation was prepared having the following composition: Nanoemulsion of Example 1 86.2% Pigment paste according to a) 13.75% Associative Polyurethane (Ser-Ad FX 1100 from SERVO DELDEN) 0,5%

The pigment paste is dispersed in the nanoemulsion by stirring with a pale straight at 400 rpm, then add the polyurethane.

A fluid foundation was obtained having a viscosity of 9 poises (0.9 Pa.s) measured at 25 ° C. using Rhéomat 180 equipped with mobile No. 3, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile.
This foundation is stable storage for 2 months at 45 ° C, has a light texture to the touch as when applied on the skin. After application, the foundation is comfortable, moisturizes and softens the skin.

Example 7

a) A pigment paste having the following composition was prepared: Titanium dioxide 6.60% Brown iron oxides, yellow 12.73% Black iron oxides 5.44% Calcium salt of red lithol B 12.73% Palmitoyl sodium sarcosinate 5.79% Water 56.71% All the ingredients are mixed at ambient temperature and then the mixture is treated with a ball mill for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. at a speed of 1200 rpm. A stable and homogeneous pigment paste is then obtained.

b) A lipstick having the following composition was prepared: Nanoemulsion of Example 3 79.5% Associative Polyurethane (Ser-Ad FX 1100 from SERVO DELDEN) 0,5% Water 5% Pigment paste according to a) 10% Glycerin 5%

The pigment paste and the glycerine are dispersed in the nanoemulsion by stirring with a pale straight at 400 rpm, and the mixture of water and polyurethane is then added.
A fluid lipstick with a viscosity of 30 poises (3 Pa.s) measured at 25 ° C. is obtained using Rheomat 180 equipped with mobile No. 3, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile.
This lipstick is stable storage for 2 months at 45 ° C, has a light texture when applied to the lips.

Claims (73)

Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 500 nm and that it contains a system of surfactants comprising : (a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion such that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 500 nm and that it contains a system of surfactants comprising : (a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C, the solid particles comprising at least one pigment selected from iron oxides, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, iron oxide coated titanium mica, ferric blue coated mica-titanium , titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic pigments and mixtures thereof. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm, the solid particles comprising at least one pigment chosen from iron oxides, zinc oxides, oxides of zirconium, cerium oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C, iii) and the oily phase representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm, iii) and the oily phase representing at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion so that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C, iii) and an aqueous nonionic thickener selected from associative polyurethanes. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm iii) and an aqueous nonionic thickener selected from associative polyurethanes. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty ester comprising from 10 to 80 ethylene oxide units and at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion such that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C. Makeup composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty ester comprising from 10 to 80 ethylene oxide units and at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm. Composition according to any one of Claims 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10, characterized in that the solid particles have a number-average size ranging from 0.5 μm to 10 μm. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the solid particles have a number average size ranging from 0.5 μm to 5 μm. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the solid particles have in particular a number average size ranging from 0.5 microns to 2 microns. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid particles are dispersed in the presence of an ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 and 11 to 14, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated fatty esters containing 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters. sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 and 11 to 15, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty ester containing 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units and at least one ester of sorbitan fatty acid. Composition according to either of Claims 15 and 16, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ester comprises from 10 to 80 ethylene oxide units. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 17, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ester comprises 40 ethylene oxide units. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 18, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ester is polyethylene glycol 40 OE stearate. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 19, characterized in that the sorbitan fatty acid ester is sorbitan tristearate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 2% to 6% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic surfactant of the surfactant system is chosen from the alkaline salts of cetyl phosphate and the alkaline salts of palmitoyl sarcosinate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic surfactant of the surfactant system is chosen from potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the ionic surfactant (b) to the nonionic surfactant (a) is such that: 0.02 ≤ b / a ≤ 75. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 25, characterized in that the weight ratio of the ethoxylated fatty ester to the fatty acid ester of sorbitan ranges from 0.02 to 100. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 26, characterized in that the sorbitan fatty acid ester represents from 0.1% to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sorbitan fatty acid ester represents from 0.5 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 9 and 10 and 15 to 28, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ester represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ethoxylated fatty ester represents from 0.1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of ionic surfactant represents from 0.05% to 10% by weight. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of ionic surfactant represents from 0.2% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 3 to 32, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 500 nm. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion has oil globules whose number average size is less than or equal to 300 nm. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4 and 7 to 34, characterized in that the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase represents from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase comprises an oil chosen from oils of animal or vegetable origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, aliphatic hydrocarbons, and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one other fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes, gums and their mixtures. Composition according to Claim 38, characterized in that the other fatty substance represents from 2 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the emulsion. Composition according to Claim 38 or 39, characterized in that the fatty alcohols are chosen from stearyl, cetyl and behenic alcohols, and the fatty acids are chosen from stearic, palmitic and behenic acids. Composition according to Claim 40, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol. Composition according to Claim 38 or 39, characterized in that the other fatty substance is chosen from glyceryl mono-, di-, tri stearate and glyceryl mono-, di-, tri-palmitate. Composition according to Claims 1 and 2 and 5 to 42, characterized in that the solid particles are chosen from pigments, fillers, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from metal oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica- titanium coated with ferric blue, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claims 1 and 2 and 5 to 44, characterized in that the solid particles are metal oxide pigments. Composition according to any one of Claims 43 to 45, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, and mixtures thereof. . Composition according to any one of Claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the pigments further comprise titanium dioxide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid particles comprise organic pigments chosen from: carmine of cochineal, the organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluoran dyes organic lakes; the melanic pigments. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the lacquer is chosen from insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, organic azo acid dyes, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran. Composition according to one of claims 48 or 49, characterized in that the organic lacquer is supported by a mineral carrier. Composition according to any one of Claims 43 to 50, characterized in that the fillers are chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, poly-β-alanine powders and powders. polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, hollow microspheres of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dispersed solid particles are present in a content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dispersed solid particles are present in a content ranging from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 43 to 53, characterized in that it comprises pigments in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises pigments in a content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises fillers in a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises fillers in a content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid particles are dispersed using a dispersant chosen from ionic surfactants having a dynamic interfacial tension less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter dispersing the solid particles is chosen from alkaline salts of cetyl phosphate, alkaline salts of palmitoyl sarcosinate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 58 and 59, characterized in that the ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter dispersing the solid particles is chosen from potassium cetylphosphate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of Claims 58 to 60, characterized in that the ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter dispersing the solid particles is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter dispersing the solid particles is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 and 9 to 62, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous nonionic thickener. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic aqueous thickener is chosen from cellulose polymers, nonionic guar gums comprising C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups; carrageenans; carob, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan, karaya gum; polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; associative polymers. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nonionic aqueous thickener is chosen from associative polyurethanes. Composition according to any one of Claims 7 and 8 and 63 to 65, characterized in that the nonionic aqueous thickener is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a usual cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, compounds self-tanning, anti-wrinkle active. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation, a makeup product for the lips, an eyeshadow, a blush. cheeks, a concealer, a body make-up product, an eyeliner, a mascara. Cosmetic process for the makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, especially to the skin, of a make-up composition comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion such that the makeup composition is stable after storage for two months at 45 ° C. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is according to any one of Claims 1 to 68. Cosmetic process for the makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, especially to the skin, of a make-up composition comprising: i) an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a surfactant system comprising: (a) at least one nonionic surfactant; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than or equal to 7 millinewtons / meter, ii) solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and having a number average size of less than or equal to 10 μm. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is according to any one of Claims 1 to 68. A process for preparing a makeup composition comprising: i) a first preparation step: a) an emulsion by mixing an aqueous phase and an oily phase with vigorous stirring, at a temperature ranging from 60 to 95 ° C., and then homogenizing at a pressure ranging from 6 × 10 ⁷ Pa to 18 × 10 ⁷ Pa. b) a pigment paste by dispersing solid particles in an aqueous phase in the presence of ionic surfactant having a dynamic interfacial tension of less than 7 millinewtons / meter; ii) a second step of introducing the pigment paste into the emulsion with moderate stirring maintaining the structure of the emulsion of the composition.