GB2275419A - Cosmetic composition comprising silicone gum - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic make-up composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or dispersion comprising a silicone or mixture of silicones based on silicone gum and a pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. The cosmetic composition exhibits improved short and longer term moisturisation together with reduced tackiness and shine and improved skin appearance and skin feel.

Description

COSMETIC MAKE-UP COMPOSITIONS Field of the Invention The present invention relates to cosmetic make-up compositions and more particularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions and blushers.

Background of the Invention A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like. A foundation composition is also applied to moisturize the skin, to balance the oil level of the skin and to provide protection against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harsh environment.

Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wax compositions.

US Patent No. 3,444,291 discloses a method of filling and camouflaging skin cavities by applying a composition which includes 65 to 75 parts by weight of a microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of a mineral oil.

The composition includes a colourant, preferably a coal tar dye, for example, D & Red No. 17, which matches the colour ofthe user's skin.

A spreadable, flowable and greaseless cosmetic cover-up composition is taught in US Patent No 4,486,405. That composition is characterized by the presence of a first and a second alkoxylated surfactant present in substantially the same concentration.

US Patent No. 4,804,532 recites a facial cosmetic powder which utilizes crystalline silica in much lower concentration than that employed in the then prior art compositions. This powder, used as a blush or a facial coating, is said to be effective in hiding skin wrinkles, lines and pores. The composition is a mixture of a colour phase and a diluent phase. The colour phase is formed by blending crystalline silica with colourants. The resultant colour phase is mixed with the diluent phase, essentially formed from nacreous materials such as talc and mica, to form the composition.

The use of a foundation composition which has a significantly high concentration of nacreous material is taught in US Patent No. 3,978,207.

This foundation, a pressed powder composition, is characterized by the presence of a nacreous material such as mica and a binder oil which provides a frosted pearl effect, that is, a lustrous look. The colour of this foundation is provided by the nacreous material.

US Patent No. 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition which includes, as a binding agent therefore, an intimate mixture of from 5 to 95 weight percent of a mixture of finely divided silica and about 5 to 95 weight percent of finely divided polyethylene fibres. The composition is recited to maintain its uniformity over the areas of the skin to which it is applied. That is, it is said to be "creaseproof'. The composition of the '562 patent includes colourant in admixture with nacreous agents.

Nakamura et al., Preprints of the XIVth I.F.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, 51-63 (1986) describes a novel make-up composition utilizing spherical silica and polydimethyl siloxane. This combination is recited to provide a foundation which reduces wrinkle visibility to a greater extent than make-up foundations with which it was compared. This reduction in wrinkle visibility is caused by optical blurring enhanced by the novel use of spherical silica and polydimethyl siloxane.

US Patent No. 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition comprising water-in-oil emulsions comprising pigment coated with polysiloxane, a silicone phase, a water phase and a polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymeric surfactant.

Foundations in the form of oil-in-water emulsions are well known in the cosmetic art. These have, however, not been successful from the viewpoint of moisturisation.

There are two ways of reducing water loss from the stratum corneum and hence increasing moisturisation. One is to deposit on the surface of the skin an occlusive layer which reduces the rate of evaporation. The second method is to add non-occlusive hygroscopic substances to the stratum corneum which will retain water, and make this water available to the stratum corneum to alter its physical properties and produce a cosmetically desirable effect. Non-occlusive moisturisers also function by improving the lubricity of the skin.

In the past, humectants such as water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants and glycerine have been incorporated into skin and hair care compositions for use as moisturisation agents. These compositions have provided improvements in moisturisation, absorption, skin feel, residue and skin care characteristics compared with conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions. They have, however, also suffered negatives such as tackiness and shine, especially when large concentrations of humectant are employed. These problems can be further aggravated in pigmented make-up compositions which by their nature tend to be somewhat tacky in use.

Furthermore, the moisturisation provided by humectants such as glycerine is often only a short term benefit, moisture being allowed to escape through the skin via transepidermal water loss.

Silicone materials such as silicone gums, are well known for their use as occlusive moisturisers. US-A-4,988,503 discloses a cosmetic foundation make-up composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which comprises 0.1 to 15% of a high molecular weight silicone oil and 0.1 to 20% of a low molecular weight silicone oil.

When used in high levels however, silicone gums are often difficult to incorporate into oil-in-water emulsion systems, particularly pigmented compositions such as those used in foundation and other make-up products.

It would therefore be desirable to provide a make-up composition having excellent stability characteristics, improved short and longer term moisturisation benefits, without the consumer negatives such as tackiness and shine.

It is accordingly one object of this invention to provide a make-up composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular an oil-inwater emulsion comprising at least two discrete oil phases at least one of which comprises silicone gum.

It is also an object of the invention to provide a pigmented make-up composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which exhibits improved short and longer term moisturisation together with good skin-feel, application and wear characteristics, and excellent stability.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a pigmented make-up composition which exhibits reduced tackiness, reduced shine and reduced greasiness during and after application, and improved skin appearance.

Summarv of the Invention In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which comprises from 3% to 30% by weight of a silicone or mixture of silicones comprising silicone gum and wherein the composition additionally incorporates from about 0.01% to about 25% of pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant.

The oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention provide improved short and longer term moisturisation and skin feel, without consumer-negatives such as tackiness, greasiness and shine. Furthermore, the emulsions herein give excellent skin appearance, coverage, finish and wear characteristics.

All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.

Detailed Description of the Invention The cosmetic composition according to the first aspect of the present invention comprises a silicone or blend of silicones incorporating silicone gum, and pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. The compositions take the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or dispersion comprising one or more distinct emulsified or dispersed oil phases. In preferred embodiments, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having at least two discrete oil phases, a first oil phase which is essentially silicone-free and a second oil phase comprising the silicone gum.

A first essential component is a silicone or mixture of silicones based on silicone gum. In mixtures, the silicone gum preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to 20% by weight of the silicone mixture. The silicone or silicone mixture preferably constitutes from about 3% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight and especially from about 12% to about 18% by weight of composition. In mixtures, the silicones are preferably blended prior to addition to the remainder of the composition.Also, it should be understood that the level of silicone excludes the silicone content of the pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate component described in detail below A preferred silicone component for use herein consists essentially of: (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity from about 0.65 mm.s-l to about 100 mm2. s-1 wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone component has a final viscosity of from about 600 mm2.s-l to about 10,000 mm2.s-l. Silicone viscosities are specified herein at 250C, unless indicated otherwise.

Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein have the chemical structure (it): HO(CH3)2 SiO[(CH3)2SiO]n(CH3)2SiOH where n is from about 2000 to about 40,000, preferably from about 3000 to about 30,000.

The fluorosilicones useful herein have a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 300,000, preferably from about 240,000 to about 260,000 and most preferably about 250,000.

The silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch and others including US-A-4,152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer, et al, and Noll, Walter, Chemistrv and Technolog;v of Silicones New York: Academic Press 1968.

Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. "Silicone gum" materials useful herein denote high molecular weight materials having a mass-average molecular weight in excess of about 200,000 and preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Typically, they have a viscosity at 25"C in excess of about 1,000,000 mm2 s-l Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.

The silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certain silicone fluids. The silicone fluid can be either a polyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane, a polyalkylaryl siloxane or a polyether siloxane copolymer.

Mixtures of these fluids can also be used and are preferred in certain executions.

The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from about 0.65 to 600,000 mm2.s-1 preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm2.s-l at 25"C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm2.s-l at 250C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

Also suitable for use herein are certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure incorporating from about 3 to about 7 (CH3)2SiO moieties.

The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970.

Preferably the viscosity of the silicone blend used in the second oil phase ranges from about 600 mm2.s-l to about 100,000 mm2.s-l preferably from about 1000 mm2.s-l to about 10,000 mm2.s-l The most preferred silicone component for use herein is a dirnethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 along with a silicone carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm2 . An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning DC- 1403 (85% 5 mm2 s-l Dimethicone/15% Dimethiconol) and Dow Corning DC-1401 (85% volatile Cyclomethicone fluid/15% Dimethiconol) available from Dow Corning.

The silicone component is valuable herein especially in combination with a discrete essentially non-silicone oil phase for providing an occlusive layer on the skin which contributes to skin feel, skin hydration and suppleness by helping to reduce moisture loss from the stratum corneum. Highly preferred in this respect are silicone gums and silicone blends based thereon having an overall viscosity of from about 600mm2. s-l to about 100,000mm2.s-1 preferably from about 1000mm2.s-1 to about 10,000mm2.s-1.

A second essential component is a pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant, the silicone being selected from water-insoluble silicones as described above. The pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants which can be used in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark, Lubrasil (RTM) from the Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrasil (RTM) can be described as a mergence of silicone oil and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant in which the silicone oil is microemulsified using high energy to form a complex.

Lubrasil also comprises propylene glycol and Polysorbate 20.

Suitable polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants herein include those having a viscosity (neat) of at least about 50,000 mPa.s, preferably at least about 80,000 mPa.s, and mixtures thereof (viscosities being measured with a Brookfield RVT Viscometer at 200C).

The polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants which can be used in making the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of varying glycerate : polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.

The pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 0.01% to about 25%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, and especially from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight of composition.

The pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant is valuable herein to facilitate incorporation of the relatively high levels of silicone gumbased material into the compositions of the present invention. In a preferred method of making the compositions herein, the pre-emulsified lubricant is dissolved or dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase to form a premix and the silicone gum or gum blend is thereafter added to the prefix.

In a preferred aspect of the invention, the compositions herein take the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or dispersion containing at least two distinct oil phases, a first oil phase which is essentially silicone free and a second oil phase containing the silicone gum. This is valuable for providing optimum performance in the area of skin feel and moisturization benefits.

The first oil phase, which can comprise a singly oily component or a mixture of oily components in miscible or homogeneous form, is preferably present at a level of from about 1% to about 40%, more preferably from about 3% to about 30% and especially from about 5% to about 20% by weight of composition.

The first oil phase generally comprises a natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof having emollient cosmetic properties. The first oil phase component is preferably essentially silicone-free, ie contains no more than about 10%, preferably no more than about 5% by weight of silicon-based materials. It will be understood that the oil phase may additionally contain a certain proportion (eg. up to about 40%, preferably 25%) of oil phase soluble emulsifier ingredients. Such ingredients are not to be considered as oil phase components from the viewpoint of determining the oil phase level.

Suitable primary oil phase components for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted Cg-Cso unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, C1-C24 esters of Cg-C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil and C1-C24 esters of dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearylmalate, diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate.

Preferred emollient oils are selected from cetearyl isononanoate isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl acetate, trioctyl citrate, PEG isoceteth-3 acetate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, mineral oil, PPG-20 methylglucose ether, and lanolin alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions herein comprise from about 0.1% to about 30% preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight of humectant. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerin, polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant, butylene glycol, sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol and glucose ethers, urea, and mixtures thereof. It will be understood that the level of humectant is additional to the level of pre-emulsified polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant detailed above.

The humectant is preferably incorporated at least partly into the aqueous phase of the oil-in-water emulsion.

Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark "Lubrajel". The "Lubrajels" identified as "Lubrajel DV", ',Lubrajel MS", and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about 1% propylene glycol.

The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4 dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3 ,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex.

The preferred humectant is glycerine. Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3propanetriol and is a product of commerce.

In preferred embodiments, at least part (up to about 5% by weight of composition) of the humectant is incorporated in the form of an admixture with a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material. The carrier material and humectant can be added either to the aqueous or disperse phase.

This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits. The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophilic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N2,BET) in the range from about 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300m2.s-1 and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.

The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated in the external aqueous phase. The active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens. In one embodiment, the polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles. The system of powder particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.

The powder material of this embodiment can be broadly described as a cross-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the active material. The lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the active material. A suitable polymer has the structural formula:

where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R' is -CH2CH2- and R" is -(CH2)1 1CH3.

The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. The material is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland. Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM). It is an ultralight freeflowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while at the same time maintaining a free-flowing powder character. The powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable of containing as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersion or melted solids.

Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed. The preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, the weight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.

Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer is Microsponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particles of cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about 0.05pm and a surface area of 200-300m2/g. Again, it is preferably loaded with humectant in the levels described above.

The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 200C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as watersoluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium- 10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents herein, however, are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F.

Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most preferred polymer is Carbopol 951.Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable and is preferred for use herein. The gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellent stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

A highly preferred component herein is a pigment. The pigment useful in the compositions of the present invention can be inorganic and/or organic.

Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents.

Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D & dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending upon the type of make-up composition, whether foundation or blusher, a mixture of pigments will normally be used.

The foundation composition can also include at least one matte finishing agent. The function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents, i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., as silica, hydrated silica, fume silica, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, attapulgite and the like may be utilized. Of particular usefulness as a matte finishing agent is low lustre pigment such as titanated mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide) coated with barium sulfate. Of the inorganic components useful as a matte finishing agent low lustre pigment, talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.

The total concentration of the pigment may be from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight ofthe total composition, the exact concentration being dependent to some extent upon the specific mixture of pigments selected for use in a foundation make-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades. The preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titanium dioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight of titanium dioxide. The level of matte finishing agent is generally from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.

The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments.

The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

Another ingredient preferred for use herein is an emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers. The emulsifier of emulsifier mixture is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1 to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight. Suitable emulsifiers for use herein include the reaction products of amines with C 12-Cl 8 saturated fatty acids such as stearic acid and palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol derivatives of sterols; C12-C18 alkylphosphates; lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin; ethoxylated fatty acids, and polyol and ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters where the polyol can be selected from glycerine, propyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol, sorbitol, sorbitan, polypropyleneglycol, glucose and sucrose.Examples include glycerylmonostearate, polyethyleneglycol stearates, polythene glycol soyasterols, sorbitan monostearate and potasium cetylphosphate.

The composition may also contain additional materials such as, for example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, polyethylene, sun-screens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and oil-in-water emulsifiers as appropriate.

Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often described as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentration in the range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agents constitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultraviolet absorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate 0) and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

A chelating agent can also be incorporated in the make-up composition. A chelating agent is preferably present in the composition in a concentration in the range of between about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of between about 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositon. Among the chelating agents that may be included in the composition is trisodium EDTA.

Another optional but preferred component of the foundation composition is one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in the foundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition, is in the range of between about 0.2% and about 0.8% by weight, preferably between about 0.4% and about 0.6% by weight. Suitable preservatives for use herein include diazolidinyl urea, phenoxethol, methyl paraben and ethyl paraben and mixtures thereof.

Another optional component of the compositions herein is a stabilizing agent. Suitable stabilizing agents include cellulosic polymers, synthetic biopolymer gums, and thixotropic clays. The preferred cellulosic polymer is hydroxyethyl cellulose; the preferred synthetic biopolymer gum is xanthan gum, and the preferred thixotropic clay is magnesium aluminium silicate.

The concentration of the stabilizing agent is usually from about 0.1 to 1.0% by weight of the total composition, although higher levels up to eg., 2 or 3% can be used if desired.

The compositons of the invention are in emulsion form and are preferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at least about 4,000mPa.s and preferably in the range of from about 30,000 to about 200,000mPa.s, more preferably from about 40,000 to about 150,000, and especially from about 70,000 to about 100,000mPa.s (250C, neat, Brookfield LVT, 0.5 rpm Viscometer T-bar-E, helipath on) The make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form of foundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, and the like, preferably as foundations and blushers.

The following Table is provided to illustrate make-up compositions of the present invention: Example I II III IV V VI wt wt wt wt wt wt % % % % % % A.

Glycerylmonostearate/ 0.8 1 2.5 1 3.5 1 PEG-100 stearate PEG-10 Soya sterol 1.5 2 - 4.5 - 2 Sorbitan Monostearate 2.0 2.25 0.1 1.0 - 2.25 Propyleneglycol 2.5 5 10.0 5.25 - 5 Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Dioctyl Maleate 7.70 5 3.0 5.0 - 5 Stearic acid - - - 2.5 1.5 Squalane - - - - 2.5 2.5 Octyl Methoxycinnamate - - - - 5.0 5.0 Benzophenone-3 - - - - 2.0 2.0 Hydroxylated Lecithin 0.5 - - 0.1 2.5 Lecithin 2.0 - 3.5 - 0.4 0.4 Vitamin E linoleate - - - - 0.5 0.5 Cetylalcohol - - - - 1.0 1.0 Cetearylisononanoate 5.25 - - - - - Mineral oil 1.50 - - - 2.0 2.0 Beeswax 0.5 - - - 0.5 0.5 Glycerylmonostearate 2.25 - - - - Phenoxethol 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 BHA - - - - 0.10 0.10 Parabens 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 I II III IV V VI wt wt wt wt wt wt % % % % % % B.

Deionisedwater 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.5 1.2 2.0 Titanium Dioxide 6.0 6.0 6.0 8.0 2.0 10.0 Talc 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.10 0.7 3.0 Yellow iron oxide 0.34 0.34 0.34 0.34 0.06 0.81 Red iron oxide 0.46 0.46 0.46 0.46 - 0.60 Black iron oxide 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.10 0.02 0.14 Ultamaline Blue 0.02 0.02 0.02 - - 0.05 Titanated Micas - - - - 6.16 2.40 D & Red # 30 - - - - 0.68 Nylon - - - - - 0.50 Ammonium Acrylate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 copolymer C.

Deionised Water - - - - - - - - - - - - to 100 - -------------- Triethanolamine 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.5 0.5 0.5 Methylparaben 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Trisodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.05 Allantoin 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.2 Phenoxethol 0.42 0.42 0.42 0.42 0.42 0.42 Parabens 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 Glycerine 5.0 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Methyl Gluceth-20 5.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 10.0 1.0 Magnesium Aluminium 0.2 0.2 0.25 0.2 0.2 0.15 Silicate D.

Potassium 1.0 2.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.5 cetylphosphate I II III IV V VI wt wt wt wt wt wt % % % % % % E.

Methylmethacrylate 0.0 0.5 0.5 0.0 0.0 3.0 cross polymer F.

Deionisedwater 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Magnesium Aluminium 0.2 0.2 0.25 0.2 0.2 0.15 Silicate G.

Deionisedwater 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Propyleneglycol 2.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 xanthangum 0.16 0.16 0.08 0.16 0.16 0.16 hydroxyethylcellulose 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05 H.

Lubrasil 0.5 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.5 0.1 I.

Cyclomethiconel 15.0 15.0 3.0 13.0 10.0 15.0 Dimethiconol Dimethiconel 2.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Dimethiconol J.

Isododecane 2.0 2.0 0.0 2.0 2.0 0.0 K.

Silica Beads 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 2.0 I II III IV V VI wt wt wt wt wt wt % % % % % % L.

Essential oils 0.2 - - 0.15 Perfume oil 0.2 - - 0.15 0.25 Vitamin A Palmitate - - - - 0.05 M.

Aloe Vera Gel 3.0 - 3.0 - - 3.0 Chamonile extract - - - - - 0.10 The various components listed in the Table have been segregated into groups, the constituents of each group being mixed together in accordance with the procedures set forth below.

In the first step, the mixture of components of phase B is stirred with sheer mixing until homogeneous. With slow speed sheer mixing at 65-75"C, the materials of phase C are admixed individually in order as given on the formulation.

The components of phase A are mixed until dispersed. The ingredients of phase K are thén added to phase A with high sheer mixing.

The magnesium aluminium silicate of phase F is prehydrated for at least 30 minutes at 500C and is then added to the aqueous phase C and thoroughly dispersed therein.

The deionised water/propylene glycol (or glycerine)/xanthan gum slurry of phase G is added to heated aqueous phase C at 650C-670C and Phase B is slowly added to phase C. Stirring is continued until homogeneous, while maintaining a temperature of 65-67 C. Component D is then added to the resulting mixture with stirring.

The components of F and G are added to the mixture with slow stirring for 5 minutes until homogeneous. Then component E is added to the mixture with slow stirring until completely incorporated.

The resulting oil phase of components A and K is then added to the waterphase of component B, C, D, E, F and G and agitated via stirring to emulsify the mixture at a temperature of about 65-67"C. The resulting mixture is cooled down.

At about 350C, the Lubrasil of phase H is added to the resulting batch and mixed until homogeneous. At about 35"C, the silicone mixture of phase I is added to the resulting batch. The resulting mixture is agitated with low speed mixing until gel-like consistency is obtained, generally within about 12 minutes. At 30"C, the perfUme oil and essential oils of phase L are added and then the aloe vera gel of phase M is added.

Claims (22)

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion which comprises a silicone or mixture of silicones in a level of from 3% to 30% by weight, the silicone or silicone mixture comprising a silicone gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 and wherein the composition additionally incorporates from about 0.01% to about 25% of pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant.

2. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 comprising a first oil phase which is essentially silicone-free and a second oil phase comprising the silicone gum.

3. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 2 wherein the first oil phase is present at a level of from about 1% to about 40% by weight.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 3 additionally comprising from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight of a humectant selected from glycerin, polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants, butylene glycol, sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol and glucose ethers, urea, and mixtures thereof.

5. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 4 wherein the humectant is glycerine.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 5 comprising from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of pigment.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 6 comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 7 wherein the silicone or silicone mixture consists essentially of (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity of from about 0.65mm2.s-1 to about 100mm2.s-1,

9. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 8 comprising from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the silicone or silicone mixture.

10. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 4 comprising from about 5% to about 25% by weight of humectant.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 10 comprising from about 0.05% to about 5% preferably 0.1% to about 3% by weight of pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant.

12. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 11 additionally.comprising from about 0.1% to 10% by weight of a cross linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer.

13. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 12 wherein the cross linked hydrophobic copolymer is in the form of a lattice and wherein at least one active ingredient is dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice, the active ingredient being selected from skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens.

14. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 13 wherein the active ingredient is selected from humectants, preferably glycerine.

15. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 14 additionally comprising from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of a hydrophobic gelling agent selected from carboxy vinyl polymers, preferably colloidally water soluble polymers of acrylic acid cross linked with from about 0.75% to about 2% of a cross-linked agent selected from polyalkyl sucrose and polyalkyl pentaerythritol.

16. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 15 wherein the gelling agent comprises a hydrophobically modified cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties.

17. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 16 additionally comprising from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight of a matte finishing agent selected from silica, hydrated silica, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth and attapulgite, and mixtures thereof.

18. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 17 wherein the matte finishing agent is selected from silica, hydrated silica or fumed silica.

19. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 18 comprising a natural or synthetic emollient oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

20. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 19 wherein the emollient oil is selected from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol dicaprylatel dicaprate, caprylic triglyceride/capric triglyceride, squalane, mineral oil, cetearylisononanoate and lanolin alcohol, and mixture thereof.

21. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 20 additionally comprising one or more ultraviolet absorbing agents.

22. A method for preparing the composition of any of Claims 1 to 21 comprising the steps of i) premixing the pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant in water and ii) thereafter admixing the silicone or mixture of silicones comprising silicone gum in the aqueous premix of pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant.