FR3098113A1 - Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form. and is in the form of: - drops independent of each other, and - aggregates derived from the agglomeration of part of said drops, and associated manufacturing process. Figure for the abstract: Fig. 1

Description

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form. , said fatty phase being in the form of drops independent of each other, and of aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of said drops.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the aforementioned composition.

In solid cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and/or stiffened, for example using waxes; this is in particular the case in solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks, eye shadows and foundations poured into pots or dishes.

On the other hand, it is rarer to find liquid cosmetic or dermatological products comprising such a structured liquid fatty phase, in particular because of the difficulties in the manufacturing process and/or the visual and/or the unsatisfactory or unsatisfactory sensory experience(s). ) commonly associated with these products.

The present invention aims to provide a composition, in particular cosmetic, in liquid form and comprising at least one structured liquid fatty phase.

Moreover, the development and availability of ever more innovative and differentiating cosmetic products, particularly in terms of visuals, cosmetic properties and/or sensoriality, remains a constant objective.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (also referred to as a "direct emulsion"), comprising a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, and a fatty phase. dispersed, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and said fatty phase is in the form:
- G1 drops independent of each other, and
- aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of part of the G1 drops.

Against all expectations, the inventors have observed that the implementation of at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in the dispersed fatty phase of an oil-in-water emulsion, associated with a process of adapted manufacture, makes it possible to access compositions comprising crystalline structures giving said composition a novel visual and unexpected sensoriality.

This result is surprising insofar as it is generally observed that the presence of a structured liquid fatty phase, in particular comprising crystals, impacts the sensoriality of a composition, and therefore the feeling on application to a keratin material, especially the skin. This result is all the more unexpected given the presence of the macroscopic size of the aggregates, and therefore of large crystals. Indeed, the larger the size of the crystals, the more the impact on the feeling on application is generally exacerbated.

In addition, the aggregates give the compositions according to the invention before application a pearly (or visual) effect, which disappears on application. This pearly effect is quite unexpected because it is present in the absence of pearls in the composition.

In other words, a composition according to the invention advantageously and unexpectedly combines properties that are at first sight contradictory.

FIG. 1 illustrates a composition according to the invention comprising an aqueous continuous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops G1 with a diameter of less than 25 microns and aggregates of drops G1.

Figure 2 illustrates the composition according to the invention of Figure 1 with a higher magnification. We visualize the presence of crystals in the G1 drops and the aggregates and that the aggregates derive from the agglomeration of several G1 drops between them.

In the context of the present invention, an emulsion can be designated interchangeably by the term “dispersion”.

According to the invention, the pH of a composition is typically between 4.0 and 8.0, in particular between 5.0 and 7.0.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise a surfactant, in particular a surfactant capable of forming crystalline structures (or crystals).

A composition according to the invention is a topical composition. A composition according to the invention is not an oral composition; it is not suitable for oral use.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is devoid of (or does not include) lecithin or one of its derivatives, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and/or casein.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is different from milk or margarine. Also, advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any compound or material of animal origin.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, is devoid of (or does not comprise) dextrin esters and fatty acid(s), such as dextrin palmitates, and in particular Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate); Estogel M from PolymerExpert (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), elastomeric gel of the CXG-1104 type marketed by NUSIL (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer); bentone (or hectorite); and their mixture.

A composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion formed of oily globules each provided with a lamellar liquid crystal coating and dispersed in an aqueous phase, as described in FR2725369 or EP0641557.

A composition according to the invention does not comprise an amphiphilic lipid phase organized in a lamellar or cubic liquid crystal phase, as described in EP1743619.

Unless otherwise indicated, in all that follows, it is considered that one is at ambient temperature (T=25° C. ± 2° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa or 10 ¹³ mbar).

The invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition, in particular as defined below.

The invention also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, capable of being obtained by a preparation process as defined below.

The invention further relates to a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up and/or care, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, the lips or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying said keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention.

COMPOSITION

A composition according to the invention is an emulsion of the oil-in-water type and therefore comprises a dispersed fatty phase and a continuous aqueous phase, the dispersed phase and the continuous phase being mutually immiscible at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Thus, the solubility of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 5% by weight, and vice versa.

A composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable (or
“kinetically stable”), in particular over time and during transport. By "stable" is meant in particular to denote, within the meaning of the present invention, the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the drops of phase dispersed in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the continuous phase and the absence of leakage of materials from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa.

Viscosity

The viscosity of a composition, in particular of the aqueous continuous phase, according to the invention can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better still from 100 mPa.s to 100 000 mPa.s, more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s to 60,000 mPa.s, and more preferably from 2,000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s as measured at 25°C. The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature and at ambient pressure, by the method described in WO2017046305.

Preferably, the continuous phase of a composition according to the invention is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, that is to say capable of flowing under its own weight. In other words, the continuous phase is not solid at room temperature and at room pressure. In particular, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the continuous liquid phase of a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity as measured at 25° C. of 1 mPa.s to 250,000 mPa.s, preferably 10 mPa. .s to 100,000 mPa.s, in particular from 100 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, in particular from 200 mPa.s to 25,000 mPa.s, and better still from 500 mPa.s to 10,000 mPa.s.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention, in particular the aqueous continuous phase, is suspensive with respect to drops (G1) and aggregates. By “suspensive” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a composition in which the drops (G1) and the aggregates remain suspended in the aqueous continuous phase over a prolonged period of time, for example greater than 1 month, preferably greater than to 3 months, in particular greater than 6 months, or even greater than 12 months, and better still greater than or equal to 30 months, including in the presence of a continuous liquid phase as defined above.

Fat phase

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase dispersed in the form:
- G1 drops independent of each other, and
- aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of part of the G1 drops.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.5% and 60%, preferably between 1% and 50%, in particular between 5% and 40%, better still between 10% and 30%, or even between 15% and 25%, by weight of dispersed fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid and crystallizable at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular as defined below.

Advantageously, the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention also comprises at least one oil, in particular as defined below.

G1 drops

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention is formed, in particular, of drops G1 independent of each other.

Thus, in a composition according to the invention, part of the fatty phase is in the form of drops G1 which do not undergo any phenomenon of aggregation between them, nor coalescence or Oswald ripening.

In a composition according to the invention, the drops G1 are macroscopic, microscopic, and mixtures thereof.

By "macroscopic", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an element visible to the naked eye, as opposed to "microscopic" which is not visible to the naked eye. A macroscopic element according to the invention advantageously has a diameter greater than 100 μm, preferably greater than 200 μm, or even greater than 300 μm, and better still greater than 500 μm.

Preferably, the drops G1 are microscopic and advantageously have a diameter less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 75 μm, better still less than or equal to 50 μm, or even less than or equal to 25 μm.

In a composition according to the invention, the drops G1 are polydisperse or monodisperse, preferably polydisperse. The “monodisperse” character and a related determination method are defined in WO2017046305.

Preferably, the drops G1 of a composition according to the invention are not monodisperse.

The drops G1 of a composition according to the invention can be in the form of solid or matrix particles (or “beads” or “spheres”), particles of the core/shell type (or “core/shell” and also designated by the term "capsule"), and mixtures thereof.

G1 drops can be monophasic or multiphasic.

According to a first variant embodiment, a drop according to the invention is a solid particle. Among these solid particles, mention may in particular be made of particles based on at least one ester of sugar/polysaccharide and fatty acid(s), in particular an ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s), for example RheoPearl KL2 (INCI: dextrin palmitate), an ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s), an ester of inulin and fatty acid(s); and their mixtures.

• monophasiques ;

ou

• multiphasiques, dans lesquelles les gouttes G1 comporte une goutte intermédiaire d’une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de la phase aqueuse continue, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d’une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire.

According to this first variant, the G1 drops are:

• monophasic;

Or

• multiphase, in which the drops G1 comprise an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the continuous aqueous phase, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop.

• monophasique ;

ou

• multiphasique, dans lequel le cœur des gouttes G1 comporte une goutte intermédiaire d’une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l’écorce, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d’une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire.

According to a second variant embodiment, a drop according to the invention is a particle of the core/shell type. According to this second variant, the heart of the G1 drops is:

• monophasic;

Or

• multiphase, in which the core of the drops G1 comprises an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the shell, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase placed in the intermediate drop.

The intermediate phase is preferably made from a solution that is immiscible with the continuous phase. The intermediate phase is for example made from a solution that is immiscible with the internal phase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Thus, the solubility of the intermediate phase in the internal phase is advantageously less than 5% by weight, and vice versa. Preferably, the intermediate phase is oily and the internal phase is aqueous.

Advantageously, the intermediate phase comprises at least one gelling agent, in particular as defined below. The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal drop(s) placed in the intermediate drop according to this embodiment and prevents/avoids the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the internal drop(s) arranged in the intermediate drop.

The intermediate phase, or even in addition the internal phase, comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
In a composition according to the invention:
- G1 drops are monophasic;
and or
- the G1 drops are multiphase in which the core of the G1 drops comprises an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the continuous aqueous phase or, when present, with the shell, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop.

Aggregates

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention is formed, in particular, of aggregates of drops G1, of which all or part of the aggregates are macroscopic.

Preferably, the aggregates have a size greater than 5 times, preferably greater than 10 times, in particular greater than 20 times, and better still greater than 50 times, the size of a drop G1, in particular of the largest of the drops G1 in the presence of polydisperse G1 drops.

Preferably, an aggregate derives from the agglomeration of at least 2, preferably of at least 5, in particular of at least 10, better still of at least 20, even of at least 50, very particularly of at least 100, possibly at least 200, G1 drops.

The aggregates have a spherical and/or non-spherical shape, preferably non-spherical.

Preferably, the aggregates represent a volume greater than or equal to 3%, preferably greater than or equal to 5%, in particular greater than or equal to 10%, better still greater than or equal to 15%, or even greater than or equal to 20%, of preferably greater than or equal to 25%, and better still greater than or equal to 30%, of the total volume of the dispersed fatty phase. Advantageously, the aggregates represent a volume comprised from 1% to 60%, preferably from 5% to 50%, in particular from 10% to 40%, or even from 15% to 30%, preferably from 20% to 25%, of the total volume of the dispersed fatty phase.

Solid fatty substances

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. A fatty substance according to the invention can also be designated by the term “fatty substance that is solid and crystallized at ambient temperature and pressure”. Such a fatty substance is therefore soluble or dispersible in a fatty or oily phase.

Preferably, a fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure has (or has) a melting point less than or equal to 60° C., preferably less than or equal to 50° C., and better still less than or equal to 40 °C. Advantageously, a fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure has (or has) a melting point of between 25°C and 55°C, and better still between 30°C and 45°C, or even between 35°C and 40°C.

Advantageously, a fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure has a ductile, plastic and weakly elastic nature.

In particular, a fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure is chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof. As solid fatty substances and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure, mention may be made of those described in WO2017046305 and FR1855703, among which the person skilled in the art, in view of his general knowledge, will be able to choose the one/those satisfying the criterion of aforementioned melting point and being in crystalline form (or able to crystallize) at ambient temperature and pressure.

Raincoats)

By "wax" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C . The protocol for measuring this melting point is described below.

The waxes which can be used in a composition according to the invention can be chosen from waxes which are solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the waxes that can be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes, deformable or not at room temperature, of plant origin.

One can in particular use hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricurry Wax, Alfa Wax, Cork Fiber Wax, Sugar Cane Wax, Japan Wax and Sumac Wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers as well as their esters, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of the waxes marketed under the names Kahlwax®2039 (INCI name: Candelilla cera) and Kahlwax®6607 (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax) by the company Kahl Wachsraffinerie, Casid HSA (INCI name: Hydroxystearic Acid) by the company SACI CFPA, Performa®260 (INCI name: Synthetic wax) and Performa®103 (INCI name: Synthetic wax) by New Phase, AJK-CE2046 (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhaxanoyl glutamide) by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Company, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-( trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, the tetrabehenate of di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin ^16L64® and ^22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in FR2792190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ).

The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C ₂₀ -C ₆₀ ) alkyldimethicones , in particular (C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ )alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

Butter(s) or pasty fat

By “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising at a temperature of 25° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction solid, and at atmospheric pressure. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound can be lower than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25° C. can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the butter(s) have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60°C. Preferably, the butter(s) have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances present in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .

Regarding the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end of melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305.

The liquid fraction by weight of butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 25°C to the melting enthalpy of the butter. The melting enthalpy of butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.

Butter is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. Butter is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of butter is equal to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained using the aforementioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, depending on the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. Butter's enthalpy of melting is the amount of energy required to change the compound from solid to liquid. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 25°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32° C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C. The liquid fraction of butter measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of melting consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of melting of butter. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25°C.

Regarding the measurement of hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as described in WO2017046305.

The pasty fatty substance or butter can be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:
- lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular stearyl dimethicones,
- polymeric or non-polymer fluorinated compounds,
- vinyl polymers, in particular
- olefin homopolymers,
- olefin copolymers,
- homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,
- linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group,
- homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,
- oligomers homo and copolymers of vinylethers having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,
- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ , preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ , diols,
- esters and polyesters, such as hydrogenated coco-glyceride, and
- their mixtures.

According to a preferred mode of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 06/15/2000, D01 : 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

Mention may more particularly be made of C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ triglycerides (INCI name: C ₁₀ - ₁₈ Triglycerides) comprising at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, butter shea butter, Shea Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) , cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.

In particular, a fatty substance that is solid and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure is chosen from jojoba esters, shea butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), hydrogenated coco-glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, for example the product marketed by AAK AB under the name Lipex SMP, C10-18 Triglycerides, for example the product marketed by Stearinerie Dubois under the name DUB CIRE H1, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention comprises a sufficient quantity of solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and pressure to ensure the formation of crystals within the drops G1 and the formation of aggregates of drops G1.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 70%, in particular from 15% to 60%, preferably from 20% to 50%, in particular from 25% to 45%, better still from 30% to 40 %, and most particularly between 35% and 45%, by weight of solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Oils

The fatty phase can comprise at least one oil. We hear by
"oil" a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to a variant embodiment, oils of vegetable origin are preferred. Preferably, the oils suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are not of animal origin.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

At meaning of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example:
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Meadowfoam oil;
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ₁ COOR ₂ and R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a fatty acid, linear or branched, C ₁ to C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ to C ₂₉ , and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, C ₁ to C ₄₀ , preferably C ₃ to C ₃₀ , such as for example Purcellin oil, l isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate;
- hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates;
- polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethyleneglycol diisononanoate;
- pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;
- silicone oils, such as for example polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or even octyldodecanol;
- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
- and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises between 30% and 90%, in particular between 40% and 85%, preferably between 50% and 80%, in particular between 55% and 75%, and in particular between 55% and 65 %, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersed fatty phase of a composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion (or "inverse emulsion"), said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G2), preferably microscopic. The size of the drops (G2) is necessarily smaller than the size of the drops (G1), and advantageously smaller than 100 μm, preferably smaller than 50 μm, in particular smaller than 25 μm, and better still smaller than 10 μm. Optionally, the drops (G2) comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and from at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined below . The drops (G2) are therefore different and independent of the drops (G1), and of the drops (G3) described below when present.

These drops (G2) also impact the texture of a composition according to the invention by further improving its qualities of smoothness and sensoriality.

Continuous aqueous phase

The aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water, preferably in the form of a gel.

In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention can also be natural spring water or floral water.

According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water of the aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention is at least 40%, and better still at least 50%, in particular between 70% and 98%, preferentially between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of said continuous phase.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least 20%, preferably at least 30%, in particular at least 40%, better still at least 50%, even at least 60%, and better still at least 70%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least 75% by weight of aqueous phase.

Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is not crystallized or does not comprise crystals.

The aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one base. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. The presence of at least one base in said aqueous continuous phase contributes in particular to enhancing the viscosity of the latter.

According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base. According to one embodiment, the mineral base is chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline-earth metal hydroxides. Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH.

According to one embodiment, the base present in the continuous aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, triethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.02% to 1% by weight of base(s), preferably mineral base(s), and in particular NaOH, relative to the total weight of the continuous phase, or even of the composition.

Hydrophilic texture agent

Preferably, the aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic texturizing agent, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water.

• les agents de texture naturels, notamment choisis parmi les extraits d'algues, les exsudats de plantes, les extraits de graines, les exsudats de microorganismes, tel que l’alcasealan (INCI : Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), la gomme de xanthane, la gomme de sclerotium rolfssii, et autres agents naturels,
• les agents de texture semi-synthétiques, notamment choisis parmi les dérivés de la cellulose et les amidons modifiés,
• les agents de texture synthétiques, notamment choisis parmi les homopolymères d'acide (méth)acrylique ou un de leurs esters, les copolymères d'acide (méth)acrylique ou un de leurs esters, les copolymères d'AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane sulfoniques acide), les polymères associatifs,
• les autres agents de texture, notamment choisis parmi les polyéthylèneglycols (commercialisé sous la dénomination Carbowax), les argiles, les silices telles que celles commercialisées sous les dénominations Aérosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), la glycérine, et
• leurs mélanges.

As hydrophilic texture agents (or aqueous phase texture agent), mention may be made of:

• natural texture agents, in particular chosen from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, microorganism exudates, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfssii, and other natural agents,
• semi-synthetic texture agents, chosen in particular from cellulose derivatives and modified starches,
• synthetic texture agents, chosen in particular from homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropane sulfonic acid), associative polymers,
• other texture agents, in particular chosen from polyethylene glycols (marketed under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those marketed under the names Aérosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and
• their mixtures.

By “associative polymer” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these include those described in FR 2 999 92.

Among the natural texture agents, mention may more particularly be made of seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates; plant exudates such as gum tragacanth, gum Karaya, gatty gum, gum arabic; seed extracts such as locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, konjac gum, pectins; exudates of microorganisms such as Alcasealan (INCI: ALCALIGENES POLYSACCHARIDES), xanthan gum, gellan gum, pullulan; other natural agents such as, for example, gelatin, collagen, keratin, plant proteins, in particular wheat and/or soya, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric chitin or chitosan polymers, acid hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium hyaluronate such as that marketed under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare; and their mixtures.

Among the semi-synthetic texture agents, the cellulose derivatives are in particular carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) such as that marketed under the names Aqualon series or Walocel series; hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) such as that marketed under the name Klucel HPC; hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) such as that marketed under the names Cellosize series or Natrosol 250 series; hydroxyethyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Walocel series; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the names Methocel E/F/J/K series from Dow Chemicals, VIVAPHARM CS 152 HV, Benecel E4M, E10M, K100M; methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Methocel A series; ethylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Ethocel series; microcrystalline cellulose such as that marketed under the name Avicel PH series; alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose marketed under the name Polysurf 67); and their mixtures.

Among semi-synthetic texture agents, modified starches are starch derivatives resulting from the modification of native starch by etherification, esterification or cross-linking, such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV; hydroxypropyl starch such as that marketed under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as that marketed under the names Structure ZEA/style/XL; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texture agents, the homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters are in particular sodium polyacrylates such as those marketed under the names Cosmedia SP, Covacryl MV60/MV40, Cosmedia SPL or Luvigel EM; crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid polymers (or carbomers), different from the carbomers defined as anionic polymer above, such as those marketed under the names Carbopol 900 series, Carbopol 2984/5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, in particular the Carbopole Ultrez 21, Tego Carbomer 134 / 140 / 141, Aqupec HV-505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-501E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texture agents, the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or one of their esters are in particular represented by glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer such as that marketed under the names Lubrajel series, Lubrasil series or Norgel ; acrylate copolymers such as those marketed under the names or Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer (INCI name=Acrylates copolymer); crosspolymer-2 sodium acrylates such as that marketed under the name Aquakeep 10 SH NF; acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as those marketed under the names Carbopol 1342/1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Pemulen TR-1/TR-2, Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501ER, HV-701EDR, HV-501EM, SER W-150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as that marketed under the name Novemer EC-2; acrylates/acrylamide copolymers such as that marketed under the name Novemer EC-1 by Lubrizol; acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymers such as that marketed under the name Aquagel 55; acrylic Acid/VP crosspolymers such as that marketed under the name Ultrathix P-100; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texture agents, the AMPS copolymers are in particular the AMPS NH4/Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as that marketed under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4/Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers such as that marketed under the name Aristoflex HMB (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer); AMPS Na/Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as that marketed under the name Aristoflex AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4/2-Carboxyethylacrylate copolymers such as that marketed under the name Aristoflex TAC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/carboxyethyl crosspolymer); AMPS Na/Acrylic acid/Sodium Acrylate/Dimethylacrylamide copolymers such as that marketed under the name Simulgel SMS88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60); AMPS Na/Sodium Acrylate copolymers such as those marketed under the names Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EPG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & Caprylyl/ Capryl Glucoside); AMPS Na/Acrylamide copolymers such as those marketed under the names Simulgel 600 (INCI: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) or Sepigel 305 (INCI: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7); AMPS Na/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers such as those marketed under the names Simulgel NS (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & squalane & polysorbate-60), Simulgel INS 100 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Simulgel FL (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer); acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Sodium Acrylate/Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers such as that marketed under the name Sepinov P88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer); and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texture agents, mention may also be made of PVP such as that marketed under the name FlexiThix polymer.

Among the synthetic texture agents, the amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers are in particular represented by acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 22; acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 28; C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Performa V 1608; Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 88; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as that marketed under the name Sepimax Zen; Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers such as those mentioned above; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texture agents, the amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers are represented in particular by PEG-150 distearate such as that marketed under the name Emanon 3299V; PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 44; PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 46; acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer such as that marketed under the name Structure 3001 by AkzoNobel Personal Care; polyurethane polyethers such as those marketed under the names Rheolate FX 1100, Rheolate 205, Rheolate 208/204/212, Elfacos T1212, Acrysol RM 184/RM 2020, Adeka Nol GT-700/GT-730; polyurethane-39 such as that marketed under the name Luvigel Star; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose such as those marketed under the names Natrosol™ Plus or PolySurf™ 67; and their mixtures.

As texture agents for the aqueous phase, mention may also be made of clays, in particular bentonite such as that marketed under the names Veegum, Veegum HS or Vanatural; montmorillonite, hectorite such as that marketed under the names Bentone series or Hectone series; kaolinite, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the texture agents of the aqueous phase are chosen from those which are resistant to electrolytes, and are in particular chosen from carrageenans; xanthan gum; carboxymethylcellulose; hydroxyethylcellulose; hydroxypropyl cellulose; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose; methylcellulose; ethylcellulose; alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; the carbomers represented by those marketed under the names Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, Tego Carbomer 134/140/141, Aqupec HV-505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV- 501E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; acrylate copolymers, in particular those marketed under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer or Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer; acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers marketed under the names Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501ER, HV-701EDR, HV-501EM, SER W- 150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; acrylates/acrylamide copolymers; the AMPS Na/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers marketed under the names Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT 10; acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Sodium Acrylate/Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers; the PVP; acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6; acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer; polyurethane polyethers marketed under the names Adeka Nol GT-700/GT-730; polyurethane-39; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose; polyethylene glycols; bentonite; glycerin; and mixtures thereof, preferably xanthan gum.

These texturizing agents, in addition to their property(ies) of resistance to electrolytes, give a composition according to the invention comprising them improved stability and transparency.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.001% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, preferentially from 0.1% to 2.5%, better still from 1% to 1.5%, and most particularly from 0.3% to 1.5%, by weight of hydrophilic texture agent(s) relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase, or even of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, may also comprise at least one polyol. The term "polyol" means a compound having more than one hydroxyl group
(-OH). All polyols which are desirably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be used in the present invention. Examples of polyols can include, but are not limited to, glycerin (or glycerol), diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, propanediol, methylpropanediol, sorbitol, mannitol, glucose, sucrose, glucamine, dihydroxyacetone, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least 1%, preferably at least 3% by weight of polyol(s), preferably of glycerin, relative to the total weight of said composition. A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a content greater than or equal to 10%, greater than or equal to 20%, greater than or equal to 30%, greater than or equal to 40%, or even up to 50%, by weight of polyol(s), preferably glycerine, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion (or direct emulsion), preferably transparent, said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed under form of drops (G3), preferably microscopic, that is to say not visible to the naked eye. The size of the drops (G3) is preferably smaller than the size of the drops (G1), and advantageously smaller than 100 μm, preferably smaller than 50 μm, in particular smaller than 25 μm, and better still smaller than 10 μm. Optionally, the drops (G3) comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and from at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined below . The drops (G3) are therefore different and independent of the drops (G1), and of the drops (G2) when present.

These drops (G3) impact the texture of a composition according to the invention by further improving its qualities of smoothness and sensoriality.

For obvious reasons, the fatty phase of the drops (G3) is different from the dispersed phase of the drops (G1), and in particular is devoid of the solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure described previously.

Bark

As mentioned previously, the drops (G1), or even the drops (G2) and/or (G3), and the aggregates according to the invention can be surrounded by a shell (also designated by the term "membrane" ).

This bark is advantageously very thin, in particular with a thickness of less than 1% of the diameter of the drops.

The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 µm and is too small to be measured by optical methods.

According to one embodiment, the thickness of the shell of the drops (G1) and (G2) is less than 1000 nm, in particular between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, preferably less than 10 nm.

The measurement of the thickness of the shell of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the small-angle neutron scattering method (Small-Angle X-ray Scattering), as implemented in Sato et al. J. Chem. Phys. 111, 1393-1401 (2007).

For this, the drops are produced using deuterated water, then washed three times with a deuterated oil, such as a deuterated oil of the hydrocarbon type (octane, dodecane, hexadecane).

After washing, the drops are then transferred into the Neutron cell in order to determine the I(q) spectrum; q being the wave vector.

From this spectrum, classical analytical treatments (REF) are applied in order to determine the thickness of the hydrogenated (non-deuterated) bark.

According to one embodiment, the bark is stiffened, which in particular confers good resistance to drops and aggregates and reduces, or even prevents, their coalescence.

The bark can be produced using any technique known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably, this shell is formed by coacervation, that is to say by precipitation of polymers charged with opposite charges. Within a coacervate, the bonds linking the charged polymers to each other are of the ionic type, or even of the hydrogen and hydrophobic type, and are generally stronger than the bonds present within a surfactant type membrane.

The shell is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of the cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of the anionic. These two polymers play the role of stabilizers, even stiffeners, of the membrane.

Preferably, one of the first or second polymer is a lipophilic polymer and the other of the first or second polymer is a hydrophilic polymer.

The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.).

The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two polymers charged with opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each drop typically forms a shell which completely encapsulates the core of the drop and thus isolates the core of the drop from the continuous aqueous phase.

Anionic polymer

As indicated above, the drops and aggregates can comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer.

The anionic polymer is used to form the shell of drops and aggregates.

In the context of the present description, the term “anionic polymer” (or “polymer of the anionic type”) is understood to mean a polymer comprising chemical functions of the anionic type. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.

By “chemical function of the anionic type”, is meant a chemical function AH capable of donating a proton to give a function A ⁻ . Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is found, the polymer of the anionic type therefore comprises chemical functions in the AH form, or else in the form of its conjugate base A ⁻ .

As an example of chemical functions of the anionic type, mention may be made of the carboxylic acid functions —COOH—, optionally present in the form of carboxylate anion ^—COO— .

As an example of an anionic-type polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which bears chemical functions of the anionic type, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are for example acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function.

Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water. In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "hydrophilic" means the property according to which a given body is compatible with water or a polar solvent, that is to say can accept water. water or said solvent, to form with them a homogeneous phase, for example a solution.

When the anionic polymer is a hydrophilic polymer, it can also contribute to increasing the viscosity of the aqueous continuous phase of a composition according to the invention. According to this embodiment, the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one carboxylic acid function.

Among the examples of anionic polymers suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C ₅ -C ₈ alkyl acrylates, C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylates, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anionic polymer is chosen from carbomers, crosslinked acrylate/C _{10 -30} alkyl acrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the anionic polymer is a carbomer.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “carbomer” is understood to mean an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a possibly cross-linked poly(acrylic acid).

Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those marketed under the names ^Tego® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, ^Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the term “carbomer” or “carbomer” or “ ^Carbopol® ” is understood to mean a polymer of high molecular weight acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic sucrose or allylic ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 ^th Edition, pll). For example, these are Carbopol ^® 10, Carbopol ^® 934, Carbopol ^® 934P, Carbopol ^® 940, Carbopol ® 941, Carbopol ^® 71G, ^{Carbopol ® 980} , Carbopol ^® 971P, Carbopol ^® 974P and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w/w at a pH between 4.5 and 7.0.

Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, in particular from 0.1% to 3%, by weight of anionic polymer(s) , in particular of carbomer(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

Cationic polymers

As indicated above, the drops and aggregates can comprise a shell formed from at least one cationic polymer.

In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term “cationic polymer” (or “polymer of the cationic type”) is understood to mean a polymer comprising chemical functions of the cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is/are lipophilic or liposoluble.

In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, by “chemical function of the cationic type”, is meant a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a BH ⁺ function. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it is found, the cationic-type polymer therefore comprises chemical functions in the B form, or else in the BH ⁺ form, its conjugate acid.

As an example of chemical functions of the cationic type, mention may be made of the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, optionally present in the form of ammonium cations.

As an example of cationic polymers, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least part of which bears chemical functions of the cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.

Such monomers are for example aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.

Mention may also be made of derivatives of amodimethicone, such as for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.

Mention may be made of the bis-isobutyl PEG-14/amodimethicone copolymer, the Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, the Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and the bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone.

Mention may also be made of polymers of the polysaccharide type comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or derivatives of guar gum (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).

Mention may also be made of polymers of the polypeptide type comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.

Mention may also be made of polymers of the polyethyleneimine type comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.

According to one embodiment, the shell comprises a cationic polymer which is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone.

According to one embodiment, the bark comprises at least one amodimethicone.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent OH or CH ₃ ;
- R ₄ represents a -CH ₂ - group or an -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C ₃ or C ₄ alkylene radical;
- x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and better still between 80 and 300;
- y is a number between 1 and 1000, in particular between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and better still between 5 and 20; And
- z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better still is equal to 1.

In the aforementioned formula, when R ₄ represents an -X-NH- group, X is connected to the silicon atom.

In the aforementioned formula, R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ preferably represent CH ₃ .

In the above formula, R ₄ is preferably a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -NH- group.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 4%, in particular from 0.02% to 3%, better still from 0.05% to 2%, in particular from 0.1% to 1%, or even 0.2% to 0.5%, by weight of cationic polymer(s), in particular amodimethicone(s), relative to the total weight of said fatty phase .

Additional compound(s)

A composition according to the invention, in particular the continuous phase and/or the dispersed phase, can also comprise at least one additional compound other than fatty substances that are solid and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, oils , hydrophilic texturizing agents, and the aforementioned anionic and cationic polymers.

The compositions according to the invention may thus additionally comprise powders; coloring agents, chosen in particular from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, fat-soluble or not, organic or inorganic coloring agents, materials with an optical effect, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof; hydrophilic, organic or inorganic gelling agents; lipophilic, organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular gelling agents, in particular as defined in WO2017046305; particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase, in particular chosen from the group consisting of pigments, ceramics, polymers, in particular acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof; fillers, in particular as described in FR1755907; emulsifying and/or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP2353577; curators; humectants; stabilizers; chelators; emollients; pH modifiers, osmotic force modifiers and/or refractive index modifiers etc. or any usual cosmetic additive; and their mixtures.

Also, the compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one biological/cosmetic active ingredient chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis dermal and/or epidermal macromoleculars, dermo-contracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, perfuming agents, and mixtures thereof. Such active agents are described in particular in FR 1 558 849.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the proposed addition. Also, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and/or the quantity of additional compound(s) according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered and/or with regard to the process for manufacturing the composition according to the invention. These adjustments are within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Preparation process

The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition as defined above, said method comprising at least the following steps:
(to dispose of :
- at least one oily fluid FI comprising at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and, optionally, at least one cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone,
- at least one aqueous fluid FE comprising at least water and optionally at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer;
(b) contacting the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI;
(c) agitating the mixture from step (b) to form an emulsion E1 comprising the drops G1 of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of the aqueous fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops of fatty phase from the continuous aqueous phase; And
(d) agitating the emulsion E1 to form an emulsion E2 comprising, in addition to the said drops G1, aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of part of the said drops G1 of fatty phase, the aggregates optionally comprising a shell isolating the said aggregates from the continuous aqueous phase,
in which :
- steps (b) and (c) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, and
- step (d) is carried out at a temperature below the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form.
Preferably, the oily fluid FI also comprises at least one oil.
According to a variant embodiment, the aqueous fluid FE is itself a direct emulsion and/or the oily fluid FI is itself an inverse emulsion.

Step (a)

Step (a) consists of having:
- at least one oily fluid FI comprising at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and, optionally, at least one oil and/or at least one cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone, and
- at least one aqueous fluid FE comprising at least water and optionally at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer.

The preparation of the oily fluid FI and the aqueous fluid FE falls within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Step (b)

Step (b) consists in bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI into contact. This step (b) of bringing into contact falls within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Step (c)

Step (c) consists, from the mixture obtained in step (b), in forming an emulsion E1 comprising drops G1 of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of the aqueous fluid FE .

Steps (b) and (c) can be simultaneous, the bringing into contact of the aqueous fluid FE (dedicated to forming the aqueous continuous phase) with the oily fluid FI (dedicated to forming the dispersed fatty phase) then being carried out with stirring or using a microfluidic device as described in WO2017103498. For example, it is the addition under stirring of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase which creates the direct emulsion E1.

Step (c) can be carried out using any stirring method or device known to those skilled in the art. These choices fall within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art, in particular with regard to the desired size of the drops (G1) and/or the viscosity of the phases.

In particular, step (c) is carried out by simple emulsification, in particular using a Rayneri-type stirring device or a paddle stirrer. Optionally, in particular to obtain a direct emulsion provided with drops G1 of reduced size, or even moreover monodisperse, the agitation according to step (c) can be supplemented by agitation using a Couette-type mixer, in particular as described in WO2018172434.

The viscosity of the phases, in particular of the continuous phase, and the shear force applied to the mixture, are the two main parameters which influence the size and the monodispersity of the drops of the dispersed phase.

Steps (b) and (c) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, preferably at a temperature between 40° C. and 110° C., in particular from 50° C. to 100° C., and better still from 60° C. to 90° C., so as to obtain an oily fluid FI (or fatty phase) endowed with a viscosity capable of forming a direct emulsion E1 when it is put in contact and agitation with the aqueous fluid FE (or continuous phase). In other words, step (c) is carried out with an oily fluid FI in a form capable of emulsifying with the aqueous fluid FE, and in particular in a liquid form.

Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the stirring process, the conditions and the duration of stirring, in particular the temperature, to achieve an E1 emulsion and in particular satisfy the size criterion sought for the G1 drops.

In the case of a composition where the aqueous continuous phase comprises at least one anionic polymer and/or a pH-sensitive polymer (in particular carbomer), the viscosity of the continuous phase can be controlled, in particular, by acting on the amount of polymer anionic(s) and/or the pH of the solution. In general, the pH of the aqueous continuous phase is less than 4.5, which may involve the subsequent addition of a viscosity-increasing solution or base as described above, in particular a sodium hydroxide solution, to reach a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 and arrive at a final composition with the desired viscosity.

Step (d)

Step (d) consists in stirring the emulsion E1 obtained at the end of step (c) to form an emulsion E2 comprising aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of a part of said drops G1 of fatty phase, the aggregates optionally comprising a shell isolating said aggregates from the continuous aqueous phase,

Step (d) is carried out by simple agitation. Advantageously, step (d) is carried out using a stirring device conducive to the formation of aggregates, and in particular using an axial flow stirrer wheel (for example equipped at least one conventional, marine, thin-bladed and/or dual-flow, radial propeller (for example represented by at least one disc turbine (from Rushton) and/or discless turbine with straight or curved blades) or tangential (for example represented by at least one anchor or barrier). Preferably, step (d) is carried out using a stirring device of the deflocculating type or a blade-to-blade mixer.

Step (d) is carried out at a temperature below the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, preferably at a temperature below 60° C., in particular below 50° C., and better still less than 40° C., to ensure the agglomeration of a part of the drops G1 between them and thus to form aggregates.

Thus, step (d) is carried out in the presence of an emulsion E1 in which the oily fluid FI (or fatty phase) in the form of drops G1 is wholly or partly in a solid form.

Advantageously, a method of the invention may comprise, between steps (c) and (d), a cooling step to accelerate the cooling kinetics of the emulsion E1.

Step (e)

A method according to the invention may further comprise a step (e), between steps (c) and (d) and/or after step (d), of adding at least one increase solution the viscosity of the aqueous phase, preferably comprising a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.

This step (e) therefore contributes to:
(i) diluting the aqueous continuous phase and thus optimizing the production yield of a composition according to the invention;
(ii) to increase the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase and, with equivalent agitation, to reduce the size of the drops G1, which can impact the sensoriality of a composition according to the invention; And
(iii) controlling the amount of aggregates formed in step (d).

Preferably, when step (e) is carried out between steps (c) and (d), the solution for increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase has a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the fatty substance(s) solid(s) and in crystalline form, preferably a temperature of from 40°C to 110°C, in particular from 50°C to 100°C, and better still from 60°C to 90°.

Preferably, when step (e) is carried out after step (d), the solution for increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase has a temperature below the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, preferably a temperature below 60°C, in particular below 50°C, and better still below 40°C. Even more advantageously, when step (e) is carried out after step (d), the solution for increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase has a temperature less than or equal to room temperature, or even less than or equal to room temperature. equal to 20°C, in particular less than or equal to 15°C, and better still less than or equal to 10°C.

Step (f)

A method according to the invention may further comprise a step (f), subsequent to step (d), of adding at least one solution comprising at least one aqueous-phase texture agent as defined previously.

Preferably, the solution according to step (f) has a temperature below the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, preferably less than or equal to room temperature, or even less than or equal to 20 °C.

This step (f) contributes:
(i) diluting the aqueous continuous phase; and or
(ii) to increase the viscosity of the aqueous continuous phase and, which can impact the sensoriality and/or the galenic of a composition according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, capable of being obtained by a preparation process as described above.

Uses

Preferably, a composition according to the invention can be used directly, at the end of the aforementioned preparation process, in particular as a cosmetic composition.

Consequently, the aqueous continuous phase is preferably adapted to represent directly a physiologically acceptable medium.

Alternatively, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to a keratin material, in particular the skin, the lips, the hair, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition must be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition must be packaged.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be skin care, sun protection, cleansing (make-up removal), hygiene or make-up products.

These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an aforementioned cosmetic composition, as a make-up, hygiene, cleaning and/or care product for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a make-up remover, a face and/or body and/or hair care, an anti -age, a sunscreen, an oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, a CC cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and/or body cleanser, shower gel or shampoo.

A care composition according to the invention may in particular be a sunscreen composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.

The compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, in particular in the form of a cream, a balm, a lotion, a serum, a gel, a gel-cream or even a mist.

On application to a keratin material, in particular the skin, of a composition according to the invention, the drops and the aggregates destabilize/fragment very quickly, typically under the shear generated by the fingers on the keratin material, without opposing of resistance. This behavior on application has the advantage of contrasting with the solid and granular visual appearance of the aggregates of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, comprising a step of applying to the keratin material at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

The expressions “included between … and …”, “included from … to …” and “ranging from … to …” must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The amounts of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

AT ) Preparation of aqueous fluid FE (Or aqueous phase (OF) )

Composition of aqueous fluid FE

OF 1 OF 2 Name Supplier INCI name Quantity
(in %w/w) Quantity
(in %w/w) OSMOTIC WATER - AQUA QSP* QSP* CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 POLYMER LUBRIZOL CARBOMER 0.2 0.15 Keltrol CP KELCO Xanthan gum 0 0.2 MICROCARE PE THOR PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.8 0.8 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG THOR PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2 2 ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL Dupont Tate & Lyle PROPANEDIOL, AQUA 2.5 2.5 CODEX GLYCERIN Interchemistry GLYCERIN, AQUA 10 10 TOTAL 100 100 * QSP: Sufficient Quantity For

Preparation protocol
1) we have a beaker containing the water,
2) the carbomer is added until hydration then the mixture is stirred until the carbomer is completely homogenized in the water,
3) with stirring, add the PHENOXYETHANOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, glycerine, PROPANEDIOL, or even xanthan gum when present, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

B ) Preparation of oily fluid FI (Or fatty phase (IF ))

Composition of the fluid oily F I

Name Supplier INCI name IF1 IF2 Quantity
(in %w/w) Quantity
(in %w/w) DUB ININ Stearinerie Dubois Isononyl isononanoate QSP* QSP* MYRITOL 318 BASF Caprylic CAPric Triglyceride 37.5 37.5 FLORAESTER 30 FLORATECH Jojoba esters 18.75 18.75 Lipex Shea AAK AB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 18.75 18.75 CAS-3131 NUSIL Amodimethicone 1.25 0 TOTAL 100 100 * QSP: Sufficient Quantity For

IF1 preparation protocol
BEAKER 1 : CAS-3131 is dissolved in DUB ININ with stirring.
BEAKER 2 : at 80°C, mix all the other raw materials with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,
At 80°C, the contents of BECHER 1 are poured into BECHER 2 with stirring, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

IF21 preparation protocol
With stirring and at 80° C., all the raw materials are mixed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

VS ) Preparation of the “oily fluid FI in aqueous fluid FE” mixture (or emulsion E1 )
1) in a tank equipped with an agitation blade, the aqueous fluid FE is stirred at 80°C,
2) with stirring, the oily fluid FI is added and the mixture is stirred until an emulsion is obtained (at least 5 minutes at 2000 rpm), in a ratio “oily fluid FI / aqueous fluid FE” 20/80,
3) optionally, a sodium hydroxide solution (20%) heated to a temperature greater than or equal to 50°C is added with stirring until a pH of between 4 and 5 is obtained,
4) when the temperature of the mixture obtained in step 2) (or 3) when present) is around 30°C, the formation of aggregates is observed,
5) optionally, a sodium hydroxide solution (20%) is added at room temperature with stirring until a pH of between 5.5 and 6 is obtained, and
6) optionally, an aqueous solution is added at room temperature comprising 0.5% of Sepigel 305 (INCI: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) with stirring for 15 minutes; this step 6) makes it possible to give more consistency and an even better sensoriality to the final composition.

Comments:
Whatever the aqueous fluid FE from among OF1 and OF2 and the oily fluid FI from among IF1 and IF2, compositions according to the invention are obtained in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, in which the dispersed fatty phase is in the form:
- G1 drops independent of each other of a size less than 100 microns, and
- aggregates of variable size and volume (average size: 500 microns).
As emerges from FIGS. 1 and 2, the aggregates give the compositions according to the invention a unique visual appearance but are not felt on application, which is quite surprising, especially given the macroscopic nature of a part aggregates. In other words, a composition according to the invention advantageously and unexpectedly combines properties that are at first sight contradictory.
Also, the aggregates give the compositions according to the invention a pearly (or visual) effect which disappears on application. This nacreous effect is quite unexpected given the absence of nacres in the composition.
Finally, the composition comprising IF2 differs from the composition comprising IF1 by the presence of G1 drops of smaller size and improved sphericity.

Claims (18)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, and a dispersed fatty phase, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and said fatty phase is in the form:
- G1 drops independent of each other, and
- aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of part of the G1 drops. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the drops G1 have a diameter less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 75 μm, better still less than or equal to 50 μm, or even less than or equal to 25 μm. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which the aggregates have a size greater than 5 times, preferably greater than 10 times, in particular greater than 20 times, and better still greater than 50 times, the size of a drop G1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solid fatty substance in crystalline form has a melting point of less than or equal to 60°C, preferably less than or equal to 50°C, and better still less than or equal to 40 °C. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the solid fatty substance in crystalline form is chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, butters, and mixtures thereof, preferably is chosen from jojoba esters, butter of shea, hydrogenated coco-glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, C10-18 Triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises from 10% to 70%, in particular from 15% to 60%, preferably from 20% to 50%, in particular from 25% to 45%, and better still from 30% to 40%, by weight of solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form relative to the total weight of said fatty phase. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises between 30% and 90%, in particular between 40% and 85%, preferably between 50% and 80%, in particular between 55% and 75%, and in particular between 55% and 65%, by weight of oil(s), relative to the total weight of said fatty phase. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the drops G1 and the aggregates comprise a shell, preferably said shell comprises at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer. Composition according to Claim 8, in which the cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, such as amodimethicone, and in particular corresponds to the following formula:

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent OH or CH ₃ ;
- R ₄ represents a -CH ₂ - group or an -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C ₃ or C ₄ alkylene radical;
- x is an integer between 10 and 5000;
- y is a number between 1 and 1000; And
- z is an integer between 0 and 10. Composition according to any one of Claims 8 to 9, in which the fatty phase comprises from 0% to 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 4%, in particular from 0.02% to 3%, better still from 0 0.05% to 2%, in particular from 0.1% to 1%, or even from 0.2% to 0.5%, by weight of cationic polymer(s), in particular amodimethicone(s) , relative to the total weight of said fatty phase. Composition according to Claim 8, in which the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one carboxylic acid chemical function, preferably chosen from carbomers, crosslinked acrylate/C ₁₀ - ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition does not comprise a surfactant. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which:

• G1 drops are monophasic;

and or

• the G1 drops are multiphase in which the core of the G1 drops comprises an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the continuous aqueous phase or, when present, with the shell, and at least one, with preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop.

Process for the preparation of a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the following steps:
(to dispose of :
- at least one oily fluid FI comprising at least one solid fatty substance and in crystalline form at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and, optionally, at least one oil and/or at least one cationic polymer, in particular amodimethicone,
- at least one aqueous fluid FE comprising at least water and optionally at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer;
(b) contacting the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid FI;
(c) agitating the mixture from step (b) to form an emulsion E1 comprising drops G1 of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid FI, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of the aqueous fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops of fatty phase from the continuous aqueous phase; And
(d) agitating the emulsion E1 to form an emulsion E2 comprising aggregates deriving from the agglomeration of part of said drops G1 of fatty phase, the aggregates optionally comprising a shell isolating said aggregates from the continuous aqueous phase,
in which steps (b) and (c) are carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form, and step (d) is carried out at a lower temperature at the melting point of the solid fatty substance(s) and in crystalline form. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the process further comprises a step (e), between steps (c) and (d) and/or after step (d), of adding to the emulsion E1 d at least one solution for increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase, preferably comprising a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide. Process according to Claim 14 or Claim 15, in which the process further comprises a step (f), subsequent to step (d), of adding at least one solution comprising at least one phase texture agent watery. Composition, in particular cosmetic, obtainable by a process according to any one of Claims 14 to 16. Non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up and/or care, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, the lips or the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to the said keratin material at least a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and 17.