FR3139465A1 - Indirect dispersion free of surfactants - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase. The cosmetic composition is free of surfactants and any other molecules having surfactant properties. The dispersion is stabilized by adjusting the viscosity of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase, by freezing the finely dispersed aqueous phase in solid form.

Description

Indirect dispersion free of surfactants

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase. The invention may include multiple dispersions where the dispersed phase will be predominantly the aqueous phase. The cosmetic composition is free of surfactants and any other molecules having surfactant properties, whether anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric. The speed or kinetics of evolution of the mixture is almost zero, the appearance is macroscopically homogeneous over time. The dispersion is stabilized by adjusting the viscosity of the aqueous phase and the fatty phase, by freezing the finely dispersed aqueous phase in solid to pasty form up to 55°C, possibly by adjusting the respective densities of the aqueous phase and the fatty phase. to close values.

Examples of cosmetic compositions of the invention have percentages of natural origin of 100% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard, by selecting only ingredients having percentages of natural origin of 100% themselves. These cosmetic compositions can be products for care, sunscreen and makeup.

The expression “dispersion” as used according to the invention characterizes a fragmented dispersed phase immiscible with the continuous dispersing phase.

The aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets or fine particles uniform in size. The dispersion thus formed has a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, but microscopically heterogeneous. For the remainder of the description of the invention, the oily phase can also be called “fatty phase”.

Cosmetic compositions based on so-called “indirect” “water in oil” dispersions corresponding to an aqueous phase emulsified in an oily phase are very widely marketed. They include, among other things, an aqueous phase, an oily phase, one or more surfactants to stabilize the emulsion formed, one or more oily gelling agents to suspend the droplets and avoid phase separation by gravity, by creaming or sedimentation, possibly a fatty substance such as a fatty alcohol to give consistency to the product by forming a microscopic lamellar structure, one or more solid fatty substances such as a butter or a wax to thicken the oily phase and give consistency to the product.

Cosmetic compositions based on indirect emulsions have a sensory well accepted by consumers, the fatty phase is in direct contact with the skin and quickly nourishes the skin barrier. The water stays on the skin longer. The sensory can be adjusted by selecting the ingredients according to the desired application, such as a sun protection composition, a light day cream composition or a richer night cream composition.

Cosmetic compositions based on indirect emulsions, however, have the major disadvantages of having a greasy feel and not being eliminated with water.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise surfactants or any other molecules having surfactant properties, that is to say amphiphilic molecules (having both a hydrophilic and lipophilic character) capable of reducing interfacial tension. existing between two immiscible liquids such as water and oil. These molecules can be ionic (anionic, cationic, amphoteric) or non-ionic and can be used as wetting, foaming, emulsifying, dispersing, detergent or solubilizing agents. Surfactants can be characterized by the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) indicating whether the molecules are rather lipophilic or rather hydrophilic depending on their chemical and molecular structure (a hydrophilic head and a lipophilic tail). The absence of such molecules in the invention allows the aqueous phase of the composition to evaporate after application to the skin. The fatty phase distributed over the application surface does not disperse or rinse off on contact with water, because it is free of surfactants. This is particularly interesting for makeup or sun protection compositions, in order to have better hold on the skin, sweat-resistance and water-resistance. This provides long-lasting properties for makeup and good sensory properties in particular. This oily phase can, however, obviously be washed by cleaning products containing surfactants such as make-up removers, shower gels or soaps. The cosmetic compositions described in the invention do not contain any anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly stable because the phenomena of destabilization of emulsions such as coalescence or ripening are limited, mainly by the fact that the droplets, also called aqueous phase particles, are solid at 20°C and solid to pasty. up to 55°C. The compositions formed are suspensions rather than emulsions in galenic terms, the dispersed phase being in a solid rather than liquid state. For the entire description, the physical states of materials at different temperatures are given at atmospheric pressure. The notion of “coalescence” as used according to the invention is understood as the rupture of the film present between two droplets, resulting in a larger droplet. The notion of “ripening” as used according to the invention is understood as the exchange of content between the smallest droplets towards the largest droplets. The fact that the droplets are in a solid state therefore limits these phenomena of coalescence and ripening, by slowing down the diffusion of their contents, and by preventing the fusion of two droplets.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are particularly stable because the phenomena of destabilization of emulsions such as creaming or sedimentation are limited by using an oily gelling ingredient in the oily phase. Depending on the gelling agent or mixtures of gelling agents used, and their concentrations, it is possible to obtain mixtures which can always flow under their own weight, or to have mixtures from soft and ductile to hard and brittle, and which do not present no steady state flow outside mechanical stress. The gelled oil phase suspends the water phase droplets, preventing them from rising or settling. Ideally, the oil phase ingredients and the water phase ingredients are chosen so that the densities of the water and oil phase are close. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are also not pH dependent. The nature of the different oily and aqueous gelling agents used allows the cosmetic compositions of the invention not to be dependent on pH.

The stability of the dispersions of the invention comes from the solid to pasty state of the dispersed droplets of the aqueous phase, from the increase in the viscosity of the oily phase by the use of a gelling agent, possibly associated with the adjustment of the densities of the two phases at close values. This strategy for stabilizing emulsions differs from Pickering emulsions, emulsions stabilized by solid particles placed at the interfaces between the aqueous phase and the oily phase, alternatives to surfactant molecules. The compositions of the invention can be formed with or without solid particles. Solid particles can be added, such as pigments with the aim of coloring the skin, mineral or organic filters with the aim of protecting the skin from the sun, powders with the aim of positively modifying the sensory aspect upon application. The solid particles are added for a purpose other than that of stabilizing the dispersions and no differences in the stability of the compositions of the invention have been noted depending on whether they contain solid particles or not. The compositions of the invention are therefore different from the compositions described for example in patent FR2995784A1, the emulsion of which is stabilized by insoluble silicate particles. The compositions of the invention are also different from the compositions described in patent FR2845287A1, the emulsions of which are stabilized by a gelling copolymer, a glyceryl acylate, but also by phospholipids therefore having surfactant properties. The compositions of the invention are different from those described in patent WO2012/012857 describing emulsions without surfactants whose stabilization method is based on the use of acrylate copolymers composed of hydrophilic polymer chains and hydrophobic polymer chains. The compositions of the invention also differ from those described in patent WO2015104176A1 describing emulsions free of surfactants but comprising organopolysiloxanes with self-emulsifying properties, compounds not present in the invention presented here. The compositions of the invention are also different from those described in patent US5643555 describing emulsions without surfactants whose stabilization method is based on the use of polyalkylsilsesquioxane particles. The compositions of the invention are distinguished from those described in patent FR3098113A1 which consist of aggregates of drops, the method of obtaining also based on the use of an anionic polymer such as a carbomer and a cationic polymer such as amodimethicone. The droplets illustrated in patent FR3098113A1 are spherical and aggregated, unlike the droplets described here, which are free from each other. The compositions of the invention are different from the compositions described in patent US2003/124158 A1, the emulsions of which can contain up to 2% of one or more emulsifiers, and contain alkyl acrylate copolymers which have surfactant properties. . The compositions of the invention are different from the compositions described in patent DE 10 2017 201948 A1, the emulsions of which comprise a lipid phase without precision on the nature of the lipids used such as amphiphilic lipids which thus have surfactant properties. The compositions of the invention are different from the compositions described in patent US 2004/018250 A1, the emulsions of which comprise particles of dimensions between 0.1 and 5 micrometers and which may contain a dispersion initiator such as a phospholipid or lecithin which are compounds with surfactant properties. The compositions of the invention are different from the compositions described in patent EP 3 598 965 A1, the emulsions of which comprise a lipid phase without omitting the use of amphiphilic lipids which thus have surfactant properties. The compositions of the invention are different from the compositions described in patent US 2014/308319 A1, the emulsions of which may contain a Carbopol, which is an emulsifying agent, or even polymers having surfactant properties.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention have, very surprisingly, a soft, silky, non-sticky effect, even when the composition includes sun filters. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are very easy to spread, the texture works well, and the playtime is high. Remarkably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention are less shiny and less greasy than conventional indirect emulsions, they have a non-sticky feel. The cosmetic compositions of the invention also have nourishing and moisturizing properties. The cosmetic compositions of the invention, surprisingly, provide a soft focus effect (blur imperfections) appreciated for makeup products such as foundations – with or without silica or other touch powder –, an enveloping feeling, cloudy. The cosmetic compositions also have good persistence, or even water resistance. According to the cosmetic compositions of the invention, a marked fresh effect is felt when the compositions are applied and worked on the skin. This fresh effect is more important for the cosmetic compositions of the invention compared to cosmetic compositions similar in all respects but possessing surfactants or any other molecules having surfactant properties. This is attributed to a shorter drying time for the compositions of the invention, which is also experienced in use. The evaporation of water being endothermic, it captures heat from the environment, therefore mainly the skin, to change from liquid to gaseous state. This effect is attributed to the absence of surfactants in the formula which means that the water is less bound to the other low volatile ingredients of the compositions of the invention, and is more likely to evaporate. This evaporation over a shorter time is felt as a more marked cooling effect.

Characterization microscopic structures of the compositions

The compositions are observed under a Motic DM-1802 optical microscope equipped with a high-resolution 3.0 megapixel camera. Images are acquired using Motic Image Plus 2.0 software. The compositions of the invention can be observed at three different magnifications, 40, 100 and 400. The sizes of the droplets can be measured using the previously calibrated software when they are visible, of micrometer sizes.

Stability of compositions

The compositions are placed in stability the day after their manufacture. Stability studies are carried out at 4°C, 45°C and 55°C. Samples are prepared in 30 mL glass pill bottles and placed in FALC ICT 120 model incubators. A control is stored at room temperature. The developed compositions are then observed and compared at regular intervals of one week. The sensory characteristics and the general appearance of the compositions are compared between the different temperatures. The physicochemical phenomena that can take place within the different compositions are noted by sensory analysis, microscopic observation, viscosity measurement, and pH measurement made possible by the existence of multiple dispersions.

Viscosity of compositions

The viscosity of the different compositions of the invention varies depending on the ingredients selected, their percentages, and the mixing process. Viscosity is measured at room temperature and atmospheric pressure using a Brookfield model RVT viscometer. The selected speed is the speed of 10 rpm. The mobile is selected according to the viscosity of the product. All viscosities are measured on 100 g samples, in the same glass container format, which allows the viscosities of different compositions to be reliably compared. The measurement is taken over an interval of one minute, the value indicated on the device is recorded once stabilized, and the viscosity expressed in mPa.s.

pH measurement

The pH of the aqueous phases of the compositions is measured using a Hanna pH 209 pH meter.

Cosmetic composition

The compositions for cosmetic use of the invention are characterized by an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, the composition being free of surfactants or any other molecules having surfactant properties and containing at least one gelling agent in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase, at least one oil, at least one fatty substance having a melting point greater than 30°C, the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of fine droplets with dimensions of 1-100 micrometers, advantageously from 6 to 100 micrometers, the dispersion thus formed having a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, but microscopically heterogeneous. This is illustrated in to 8 presenting frozen droplets in suspension. The droplet shapes obtained are mostly undefined. The droplets generally formed in water-in-oil emulsions containing surfactants and a liquid aqueous phase at 20°C are spherical in shape.

Several parameters influencing the size of the droplets are adjusted to obtain the expected product. These parameters are for example the rotation speed of the agitator, the geometry of the container and the agitator, the viscosity and composition of the two phases, the temperature of the fatty phase, the temperature of the aqueous phase, the flow rate of incorporation of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase.

The product obtained, composed of droplets of aqueous phase suspended in a fatty phase, is then cooled with or without stirring. This cooling is done by any necessary and suitable means, such as cooling in the open air in the case of a small volume, by dipping the container in a cold bath, by circulation of a refrigerating liquid in a double envelope containing the mixture, by moving the container into a cold environment such as a fridge or freezer of dimensions adapted to the container. After cooling the mixture, the aqueous phase droplets are trapped in the fatty phase.

Composition of the aqueous phase

The aqueous phase is composed mainly of water in proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 40% and 97%, and in particular between 70% and 95% by weight.

The water may or may not be demineralized, be from a natural source or be floral water. The high water content among the other ingredients of the aqueous phase makes it possible to obtain ease of spreading and freshness when applying the compositions of the invention. The aqueous phase contains a gelling agent making it possible to stabilize the droplets, it contains preservatives when the composition is sensitive to microbial contamination, possibly one or more glycols making it possible to extend the duration of the application and provide moisturizing properties, possibly one or sun filters, possibly one or more pigments, possibly one or more active ingredients.

Conservatives

The aqueous phase contains preservatives, and according to one embodiment preservatives coupled with other molecules having antimicrobial effectiveness. These include glycols, glycerin esters, essential oils, certain plant extracts, peptides, organic acids and their associated salts. Preservatives and preservation aids are ideally chosen to be compatible with other ingredients, particularly aqueous phase gelling agents, so as not to affect the viscosity of the aqueous gel. These glycols can be for example, but not limited to, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol. Glycols with longer carbon chains such as caprylyl glycol, and decylene glycol are not included in the invention because they have some surfactant properties, although this is not their primary functionality. Certain glycols with surfactant properties such as caprylyl glycol also have an irritant potential. For the same reason, glycerin esters are excluded from the invention, because they have surfactant properties, this is particularly the case for ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate.

Essential oils having antimicrobial properties can be incorporated into the compositions, these are for example, but not limited to, cinnamon essential oil, clove essential oil, clove essential oil. eucalyptus, lavender essential oil, thyme essential oil, rosemary essential oil, tea tree essential oil, lemongrass essential oil. Plant extracts with antimicrobial properties may be, for example, but not limited to, extracts of tree bark such as aspen or birch, and blackcurrant extracts.

The organic acids and their associated salts may be, for example, but not limited to, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, p-anisic acid, levulinic acid.

Aqueous gelling agents

The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the aqueous phase contains one or more gelling agents, the proportion of gelling agents relative to the aqueous phase being between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, and in particularly between 0.5% and 1% by weight.

Among the aqueous gelling agents, anionic polymers such as polyacrylates (sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid, carbomer) and polyacrylate derivatives can be used with the exception of the presence of another ionized compound of cationic or amphoteric or even anionic type in the composition. Natural gelling agents based on polysaccharides and their derivatives are preferably used, for example but not limited to, cellulose gums (cellulose gum), konjac gums (glucomannan), xanthan gums (xanthan gum), gellan gums, sclerotium gum, biosaccharide derivatives such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2, biosaccharide gum-4, tara gums (caesalpinia spinosa gum), gums carob (ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum), tamarind gums (tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide), acacia gums (acacia senegal gum), natto gums (natto gum), guar gums (cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar ) gum) and their derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) with the exception of the presence of another ionized compound of anionic or amphoteric or even cationic type in the composition, carrageenans (carrageenan), cellulose (cellulose gum) and its derivatives such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose. Starches of various origins and their derivatives can be used, such as potato starch (solanum tuberosum (potato) starch), corn starch (zea mays (corn) starch), tapioca starch ( tapioca starch) and starch derivatives such as sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the pH using acids or bases, when the gelling agent is sensitive to it. This is particularly the case for anionic gelling agents such as polyacrylates and polyacrylate derivatives.

The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the salinity of the medium, when the gelling agent is sensitive to it. This is particularly the case for gelling agents such as carrageenan.

Fatty alcohols

The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase may contain one or more fatty alcohols having melting points greater than 40°C, with carbon chain lengths of between 16 and 34 carbon atoms, the proportion of alcohols fat relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

The preferred fatty alcohols for the compositions of the invention are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol. These are introduced hot with the oily phase during the formation of emulsions. They form lamellar structures in the aqueous phase when the compositions are cooled, separately from the oil phase. The cosmetic compositions of the invention containing these fatty alcohols have higher viscosities, and are richer in terms of sensory effects upon application. The cosmetic compositions containing these fatty alcohols also have the benefits of a dispersion without surfactants concerned by the invention: they have a fresh effect, and improved staying power on the skin, in particular water resistance.

Oily phase

The compositions include an oily phase which may be composed of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 30°C, one or more sunscreens, one or more pigments or other ingredients colored, one or more powders allowing the sensory or appearance of the product to be modified, a perfume.

Oils

The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase is composed mainly of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of oils relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 95%, and in particular between 50% and 90% by weight.

The oils can be oils of vegetable origin, typically composed of triglycerides. These are for example, but not limited to, almond oil (prunus amygdalus dulcis oil), apricot kernel oil (prunus armeniaca kernel oil), argan oil (argania spinosa oil), avocado (persea gratissima oil), baobab oil (adansonia digitata seed oil), camelina oil (camelina sativa seed oil), castor oil (ricinus communis seed oil), coconut oil (cocos nucifera oil), grape seed oil (vitis vinifera seed oil), hemp seed oil (cannabis sativa seed oil), meadowfoam seed oil (limnanthes alba seed oil), macadamia nut oil (macadamia ternifolia seed oil), oats (avena sativa kernel oil), raspberry seed oil (rubus idaeus seed oil), rose oil (rosa damascena flower oil), sesame seed oil (sesamum indicum seed oil), olive oil (olea europea fruit oil), sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed extract), hazelnut oil (corylus avellana seed oil). Among the vegetable oils composed of monoesters we can cite jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil). Squalene (squalene) isolated from olive oil and squalane (squalane) derived from squalene can also be used.

Oils can be of mineral origin, from petroleum, or synthetic. These are for example, but not limited to, paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum) and their derivatives, hydrogenated polybutenes, alkanes of different carbon chain lengths, from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, among those - here isohexadecane, isododecane, isoeicosane, C13-15 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C9-12 alkane. Linear or cyclic silicone oils as well as their derivatives, such as caprylyl methicone, dimethicone, methicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, lauryl phenylpropyl methicone, cyclomethicone. The oils may be branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 5 to 20 carbon atoms, such as oleyl alcohol, and Guerbet alcohols such as ethylhexanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol.

Examples include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, composed of one or more fatty acids composed of 3 to 22 carbon atoms and one or more fatty alcohols composed of 3 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty acids may comprise one or more acid functions, and fatty alcohols may comprise one or more alcohol functions. These esters can be of natural origin, be partially of natural origin, or be of synthetic origin. Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, their ease of formulation, and their good acceptance by consumers. These include, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, ceteraryl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isonon anoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate, oct yldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl lactate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl isonon anoate, cetyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isopropyl stearate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl erucate, isostearyl isostear ate, octyldodecyl erucate , octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate/caprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate, tridecyl neopentano ate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.

Solid fats

The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase may contain one or more waxes having melting points greater than 60°C, preferably of plant origin, the proportion of waxes relative to the oily phase being included between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight.

The compositions of the invention are characterized in that the oily phase can contain one or more butters having melting points greater than 30°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of butters relative to the oily phase being included between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 40% by weight.

Butters are interesting for this application due to their ease of formulation, they are very good emollients and positively modify the sensory of the compositions. They provide hardness to the compositions while allowing easy spreading on the skin thanks to their melting properties. The origins of the butters that can be used in the invention are for example, but not limited to, shea butter and its derivatives (butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), cocoa butter (theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter). , mango butter (mangifera indica (mango) seed butter), cupuaçu butter (theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), kokum butter (garcinia indica seed butter), mowrah butter (bassia latifolia seed butter), butter of sal (shorea robusta seed butter), murumuru butter (astrocaryum murumuru seed butter), ucuuba butter (virola sebifera nut oil), bacuri butter (platonia insignis seed butter).

Triglycerides reconstituted from different fatty acids can help structure the oily mixture. These triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue and three linear fatty acid residues with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 22 carbon atoms such as the following materials: glycerol trilaurate (trilaurin), glycerol trimyristate (trimyristin ), glycerol tripalmitate (tripalmitin), glycerol tristearate (tristearin), glycerol triarachidate (triarachidin), glycerol tribehenate (tribehenin), glycerol trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin).

Triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and consist of mixtures of linear fatty acids with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used to harden the oily phase, among these we can cite C10 triglycerides. -18 (C10-18 triglycerides) of variable melting points, C18-36 triglycerides (C18-36 triglycerides) of variable melting points.

Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of a fatty acid with a carbon chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol with a carbon chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms having melting points greater than 30°C can also be used to harden the oil phase. Among these may be cited, but not limited to, esters such as isostearyl behenate, isostearyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, octylpalmitate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, stearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, esters of jojoba produced by inter esterification of jojoba oil, hydrogenation of jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two transformations (jojoba esters).

Fatty substances with melting points above 30°C can be obtained from hydrogenated vegetable oils. These have varying melting points, some can be considered butters and others waxes depending on their respective melting points. These hydrogenated vegetable oils may be for example, but not limited to, hydrogenated vegetable oils whose composition is not specified (hydrogenated vegetable oil), hydrogenated argan oil (hydrogenated argania spinosa kernel oil), hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated apricot kernel oil, hydrogenated canola oil , hydrogenated pistachio seed oil (hydrogenated pistacia vera seed oil), hydrogenated rapeseed oil (hydrogenated rapeseed oil), hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil (hydrogenated sunflower seed oil), hydrogenated sweet almond oil, hydrogenated castor oil.

Butters from modified vegetable oils can also be used. These come from partially hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins, or vegetable oils of all origins mixed with partially or totally hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins.

Waxes of plant or animal origin may be, for example, but not limited to, candelilla wax (euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), carnauba wax (copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax), beeswax. (beeswax), sumac wax also called Japanese wax (rhus verniciflua (sumac) peel cera), rice wax (oryza sativa (rice) bran wax), sunflower wax (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil) , myrica wax (myrica cerifera (bayberry) fruit wax).

Waxes of mineral or synthetic origin can harden the oily phase. These waxes can be mineral waxes resulting from petroleum distillation and composed of branched or linear chain hydrocarbons, such as microcrystalline waxes and paraffin waxes. Waxes extracted from lignite or coal or any other sedimentary rock, such as ozokerite wax (ozokerite), lignite wax or Montan wax and their waxes resulting from purification processes such as ceresin wax (paraffin) . Waxes from the Fisher-Tropsch process obtained by catalysis of carbon monoxide and hydrogen such as synthetic waxes and synthetic beeswax. Waxes from the silicone family, such as lauryl phenylisopropyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone, dimethiconol stearate, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone.

Oily gelling agents

Other substances for hardening oily mixtures are gelling agents of natural or synthetic origin. Among these gelling agents that can harden oily mixtures we can cite polyamides. These may be for example, but not limited to, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, polyamide-4, polyamide-8. These polyamides are usually used as film-forming agents in cosmetics. They also make it possible to obtain gelled oils when used in sufficient mass proportions, typically greater than 10%. The gelling power depends on the type of polyamide used. Glutamic acid derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide can also be used to gel the oil phase. These are used in mass proportions of between 1% and 20%, preferably between 3% and 15%, and in particular between 4% and 12% relative to the oily phase. Hydroxystearic acid can be used to provide a gel texture. Dextrin derivatives can also be used, with varying sensory properties depending on the carbon chain grafted onto the dextrin chain. Among these, we can cite dextrin palmitate (dextrin palmitate), dextrin myristate (dextrin myristate), dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, dextrin isostearate. Stearoyl inulin can also be used to form gels. Polymers derived from castor oil such as Castor Oil/IPDI copolymer can also be used to gel the oil phase. It is possible to adjust the consistency of the compositions by introducing into the mixture substances of mineral origin, modified or not, such as clays, silicates and silicas. These clays can be for example, but not limited to, bentone and its derivatives, hectorite and its derivatives, montmorillonite and its derivatives. The silicates may be for example, but not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium silicate. The silicas may be, for example, but not limited to, fumed silicas (silica) and modified silicas.

UV filters

The compositions also contain chemical or mineral filters allowing the product to provide sun protection to the user. The filters can be used alone or preferably in a mixture of defined composition. This mixture of defined composition makes it possible, for example, to claim protective performance according to the regulations in force in the geographical areas where the product is marketed. This concerns in particular the protection performance in the field of ultraviolet A, known as UVA, and in the field of ultraviolet B, known as UVB.

The filters used can, for example, be of mineral origin. Filters can also be of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, in particular certain vegetable oils with sun protection properties.

These filters may be for example, but not limited to, metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as, for example, but not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenol ne-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone , ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine.

In addition to the UV filters that may be contained in the compositions, certain water-soluble UV filters may be added to the composition in the aqueous phase. This is the case, for example, for phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Additional ingredients that may be part of s composition s

Different ingredients can be added to the compositions to improve their attractiveness to users, such as perfumes, touch agents, film-forming agents, dyes, pigments, and active ingredients.

Perfumes can be of synthetic or natural origin. Among these we can cite essential oils.

Touch agents can be fillers making it easier to spread the product through their lubricating properties, or improving the sensory sensation upon application and after application, making it possible to limit the stickiness and/or shine of the formulas. These touch agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Among these we can cite silica and silica derivatives, plastic particles based on PMMA, Nylon as well as their derivatives. Celluloses and cellulose derivatives. Starches and starch derivatives. Clays and clay derivatives. Metal particles or metal oxides.

Film-forming agents can be used to obtain a continuous film on the hair, skin, eyelashes and eyebrows. They can be of natural or synthetic origin. These film-forming agents can be, among others, resins, gums, cellulose and its derivatives.

Dyes can be of natural or synthetic origin, solubilized in oil phase or in aqueous phase. Ideally, the color makes the product attractive but the skin is not tinted when the product is applied. The dyes according to the invention are mainly used to improve the visual attractiveness of the product before application.

Mineral (physical) or organic (chemical) pigments add color to the product and can advantageously modify the color of the skin when applying the product. The use of pigments can also reinforce the action of sun protection by absorbing or reflecting part of the radiation. The pigments used according to the invention are based on iron oxides and titanium dioxide. Mother-of-pearl on a mica support, synthetic mica (synthetic fluorphlogopite), or boron nitride (boron nitride) can also be used. The pigments can both be included in the aqueous phase and/or in the oily phase.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain active ingredients making it possible to positively modify the appearance of the skin. The active ingredients can be vitamins and their derivatives, antiseptic, anti-acne molecules, keratolytics, depigmentants, anti-inflammatories, esters of so-called essential mineral salts, oils of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin having benefits for the skin, plant extracts.

Examples

A representative composition of the invention is presented as an example below. This example is representative of a treatment cream and is not limiting.

INCI Phase Composition
(% mass) AQUA HAS 47-52 LEVULINIC ACID & GLYCERIN & SODIUM LEVULINATE HAS 0.5-2 GLYCERIN & AQUA & P-ANISIC ACID HAS 1-3 PROPANEDIOL HAS 3-5.5 XANTHAN GUM B 0.1-0.8 AQUA & SODIUM HYDROXIDE B’ 0.025-3 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE VS 25-32 CETEARYL ALCOHOL VS 5-8 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER VS 5-8 SILICA VS 0-13

The composition given in Table 1 has a natural content of 100% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard.

A representative composition of the invention is presented as an example below. This example is representative of a solar product and is not limiting.

INCI Phase Composition
(% mass) AQUA HAS 30-38 LEVULINIC ACID & GLYCERIN & SODIUM LEVULINATE HAS 0.5-2 GLYCERIN & AQUA & P-ANISIC ACID HAS 1-3 PROPANEDIOL HAS 3-5.5 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID HAS 0.1-10 AQUA& SODIUM HYDROXIDE HAS' 0.025-3 XANTHAN GUM B 0.1-0.8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE VS 17-25 CETEARYL ALCOHOL VS 2-7 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER VS 2-7 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE VS 1-10 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE VS 1-10 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE VS 1-5 SILICA VS 0-13

The composition given in Table 2 has a natural content of 77.75% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard, and has a simulated SPF of 50.

A representative composition of the invention is presented as an example below. This example is representative of a foundation makeup product and is not limiting.

INCI Phase Composition
(% mass) AQUA HAS 35-48 LEVULINIC ACID & GLYCERIN & SODIUM LEVULINATE HAS 0.5-2 GLYCERIN & AQUA & P-ANISIC ACID HAS 1-3 PROPANEDIOL HAS 3-5.5 XANTHAN GUM B 0.1-0.8 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE VS 17-32 BEHENYL ALCOHOL VS 5-11 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER VS 5-11 IC 77499 VS 0-0.08 IC 77491 VS 0-0.8 IC 77492 VS 0-3 CI77891 VS 0.5-10

The composition given in Table 3 has a natural content of 100% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard.

A representative composition of the invention is presented as an example below. This example is representative of a mascara makeup product and is not limiting.

INCI Phase Composition
(% mass) AQUA HAS 30-42 LEVULINIC ACID & GLYCERIN & SODIUM LEVULINATE HAS 0.5-2 GLYCERIN & AQUA & P-ANISIC ACID HAS 1-3 PROPANEDIOL HAS 3-5.5 XANTHAN GUM B 0.1-0.8 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM B 0.05-3 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE VS 18-25 BEHENYL ALCOHOL VS 3-7 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER VS 3-7 SHOREA ROBUSTA RESIN VS 0.5-4 IC 77499 VS 5-16 SILICA VS 0-8

The composition given in Table 4 has 100% original content calculated according to the ISO16128 standard.

The examples of compositions of the invention are stable at 4°C, 20°C, 45°C for periods greater than 3 months.

Obtaining the cosmetic compositions described here and illustrated with the different examples does not require specific equipment different from that conventionally used in formulation. No overpressure is created at the time of emulsification.

Claims (9)

Composition for cosmetic use characterized by an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, the composition being free of surfactants or any other molecules having surfactant properties, and containing at least one gelling agent in the aqueous phase, at least one oil, at least one fatty substance having a melting point greater than 30°C, the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of solid to pasty particles at temperatures below 55°C, with average dimensions of 1-100 micrometers, advantageously 6 to 100 micrometers, the dispersion thus formed having a macroscopically homogeneous appearance, but microscopically heterogeneous. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains a gelling agent among anionic polymers such as polyacrylates and their derivatives, polysaccharides such as xanthan gums, konjac, sclerotium, gellan, tara, carob, tamarind, acacia , natto, guar, carrageenan, starch, cellulose. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase is composed mainly of water in proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 40% and 97%, and in particular between 70% and 95% by weight. . Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains one or more gelling agents, the proportion of gelling agents relative to the aqueous phase being between 0.01% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5%, and in particular between 0.5% and 1% by weight. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more fatty alcohols having melting points greater than 40°C, with carbon chain lengths of between 16 and 34 carbon atoms, the proportion of fatty alcohols per relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 50%, preferably between 5% and 40%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase is composed mainly of one or more liquid oils at 20°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of oils relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 95%, and in particular between 50% and 90% by weight. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more waxes having melting points above 60°C, preferably of plant origin, the proportion of waxes relative to the oily phase being between 1 % and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% by weight. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more butters having melting points above 30°C, preferably of vegetable origin, the proportion of butters relative to the oily phase being between 1 % and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 40% by weight. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oily phase contains one or more gelling agents such as polyamides, dextrin derivatives, glutamic acid derivatives or even polymers derived from castor oil, the proportion of gelling agent relative to the oily phase being between 1% and 20%, preferably between 3% and 15%, and in particular between 4% and 12% by weight.