FR3117016A1 - Cosmetic composition for sun protection in the form of a solid emulsion. - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are emulsions with a liquid internal aqueous phase dispersed in a solid external oily phase at 20°C. The compositions contain sunscreens. The compositions according to the present invention have one or more of the following functions: protect users from damage linked to exposure to the sun, enhance the aesthetic qualities of the skin. The sensory experience of the solid cosmetic compositions of the present invention is particularly pleasant due to the cool effect on application. The compositions thus obtained can be heated and then molded or poured directly into packaging and maintain their shapes after cooling.

Description

Cosmetic composition for sun protection in the form of a solid emulsion.

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of a solid emulsion composed of an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. The oily phase contains the majority of sunscreens by weight, as well as a mixture of fats of natural origin which are solid at room temperature. The aqueous phase contains mostly water.

The emulsion is stabilized by a couple of emulsifiers derived from glycerin and fatty acids. These non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen for their natural origin, and for their good tolerance by consumers. The compositions are free of anionic surfactants. Cationic surfactants can be used in particular for the sensory they can bring to formulas.

The compositions can also contain ingredients that increase their attractiveness to consumers, such as active ingredients, perfumes, pigments, colorants, incorporated into the oily phase or into the aqueous phase.

The cosmetic compositions subject of the invention are intended to be applied to keratinous surfaces, particularly the skin, the lips and the hair.

The ingredients of the composition can be of mineral, synthetic or natural origin. The ingredients are preferably chosen from natural origin. Contents of natural origin greater than 95%, reaching 99%, can be obtained in the case of compositions with mineral UV filters. The percentages are calculated according to the ISO16128 standard. The compositions are free of controversial ingredients among consumers, such as aluminum derivatives, silicones, parabens.

The compositions according to the present invention have one or more of the following functions: protecting users from damage linked to exposure to the sun, enhancing the aesthetic qualities of the skin and concealing defects using colored products, improving the aesthetics of the skin by an action of the cosmetic compositions on the skin.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are in solid form at room temperature and are liquid above 55°C. This makes it possible to cast the compositions in molds and then to transfer them into its primary container by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as picking. The product can also be poured directly into containers, by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as pouring from above or pouring from below. Different shapes can thus be obtained.

The cosmetic compositions described are particularly stable with respect to temperature. In particular, products cast in stick form keep their shape and show no exudation, cracks or other alterations over a temperature range between -14°C and 55°C.

Cosmetic compositions containing mineral screening systems are particularly stable to light. Cosmetic compositions containing chemical screening agents selected for their synergistic effectiveness are also particularly stable to light. This photostability guarantees the user effective sun protection over time when the product is exposed to the sun, and after application.

The sensory experience on application is particularly interesting because the product is made up of two distinct phases. The cosmetic compositions can be applied directly to the skin, or an applicator can be used to transfer product between the packaging and the skin. The solid compositions melt under the effect of the temperature of the skin and/or by friction. A sensation of freshness is notably provided by the evaporation of the water contained in the compositions. This feeling of freshness can be quantified by measuring the temperature of the skin using an infrared thermometer. Average temperature drops of 1.5°C are noted for the compositions produced. This cooling of the surface of the skin persists for about thirty seconds.

The aqueous phase fractions contained in the compositions are ideally greater than 10%.

After evaporation of the water fractions, the films deposited on the skin have improved hold compared to fluid emulsions, thanks to the fractions of solid fatty substances contained in the compositions. This notably makes it possible to greatly reduce the transfer of colored compositions onto other surfaces. This also makes it possible to greatly reduce the dissolution or dispersion of sunscreens in aqueous media.

Ideally, the thickness of the deposited film is homogeneous over the entire surface of the skin. This allows effective sun protection over the entire surface where the product is applied. In the case of compositions also containing pigments, this makes it possible to have a homogeneous covering of the surface on which the product is applied, to have a better hold.

The solid compositions advantageously have an oily phase and an aqueous phase, making it possible to incorporate therein both oily active agents and aqueous active agents. Also, other ingredients such as perfumes, dyes, pigments, sunscreens, active ingredients can be incorporated into one phase or the other of the compositions. This leaves the formulator with a wide choice of ingredients that can be used in these solid compositions.

The compositions are solid emulsions formed hot, at temperatures of the order of 60°C, the aqueous phase being the dispersed phase. This advantageously makes it possible to reduce the risks of contamination of the product by pathogens and makes it possible to adapt the preservative system. It is thus possible to reduce the use of listed preservatives and to use only pseudo-preservatives, such as glycols. These are better accepted by users.

The U.S. Pat. No. 6,183,760 describes a solid emulsion thanks to the addition of gelling agent in the water of the internal phase. The U.S. Pat. No. 3,957,969 describes a solid emulsion formed using a gel of polyols dispersed in a fatty phase, before adding water. The U.S. Pat. No.5,593,662 describes a solid emulsion whose internal phase is essentially composed of polyols. Patent WO 2016/017188 describes a solid emulsion whose internal phase contains a powder and therefore the external phase is partly gelled by a clay derivative.

Composition hardness

The hardnesses of the different compositions of the invention vary according to the ingredients selected, their percentages, and the method of mixing. The compositions are cast according to the defined conditions, and left at ambient temperature for 24 hours. The hardnesses are then measured at room temperature, approximately 20° C., and at atmospheric pressure using a CT3 Texture Analyzer texturometer equipped with a measuring probe code TA026 of the butter cutting wire type. The load is triggered at 1 g, the test speed is 1 mm/s. The results of the measurement make it possible to determine the maximum hardnesses, and to check the homogeneity of the hardness within the section of the compositions. The cosmetic compositions and the parts formed from the cosmetic compositions are considered to be solid when the maximum hardness measured is greater than 50 g by following the measurement mode described above. Otherwise, the cosmetic compositions and the parts formed from the cosmetic compositions are considered pasty when the maximum hardness measured is less than 50 g.
Characterization of the microscopic structures of the compositions

The compositions are observed under the Motic DM-1802 optical microscope equipped with a high resolution 3.0 megapixel camera. Images are acquired using Motic Image Plus 2.0 software. The compositions of the invention can be observed at three different magnifications, 40, 100 and 400. The crystallization phenomena that can take place are observed thanks to two polarizing filters, which is put into practice for the study of the crystallization of bodies solid fats and the possible recrystallization of the chemical filters contained in the compositions. The microscopy images also make it possible to validate the good dispersion of the pigments as well as the fineness of the emulsions.

Characterization of the fresh effect

The cooling effect is quantified using a Voltcraft IR 260-8S infrared thermometer. The surface temperature of the skin on the inside of the wrist is measured by holding the thermometer vertically to the skin, at a distance of 5 cm. The product is applied to a square surface with sides of 5 cm, the quantity deposited corresponding to 1.3 mg/cm². The temperature is immediately taken and followed over time until the return to the initial temperature without deposited product.

Composition stability

The compositions are stabilized the day after their manufacture. Stability studies are carried out at 4°C, 45°C and 55°C. Samples are prepared in 30 mL glass pillboxes and placed in FALC ICT 120 model incubators. A control is kept at room temperature. The developed compositions are then observed and compared at regular weekly intervals. The sensory characteristics and the general appearance of the compositions are compared between the different temperatures. The physico-chemical phenomena that can take place within the different compositions are noted by sensory analysis, observation under the microscope, viscosity measurement, and pH measurement.

pH measurement

The pH of the aqueous phases of the compositions is measured using a Hanna pH 209 pH meter.

Oil phase

The compositions comprise an external oily phase which may be composed of one or more oils, one or more fatty substances which are solid at 20°C, one or more sunscreens, one or more pigments or other colored bodies, one or more powders making it possible to modify the sensory or the appearance of the product, one or more emulsifiers, a perfume. The fatty substances used are (at atmospheric pressure) oils that are liquid at 20°C, waxes that are solid at 20°C and liquid above 60°C, butters that are solid at 20°C and liquid at temperatures close to that of the skin, above 40°C.

Oils

The compositions comprise according to the embodiments one or more oils. These oils are liquid at 20°C, and can be of mineral, synthetic, animal or vegetable origin. The oil content for the fatty phase is between 1% and 99%, preferably between 20% and 90%, and in particular between 30% and 60%. The ingredients listed below follow the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). For the convenience of the reader, the INCI is indicated directly, or the common name is indicated followed by the INCI in parentheses.

The oils can be oils of vegetable origin, typically composed of triglycerides. These are for example, but not limited to, almond oil (prunus amygdalus dulcis oil), apricot kernel oil (prunus armeniaca kernel oil), argan oil (argania spinosa oil), avocado oil (persea gratissima oil), baobab oil (adansonia digitata seed oil), camelina oil (camelina sativa seed oil), castor oil (ricinus communis seed oil), coconut oil (cocos nucifera oil), grapeseed oil (vitis vinifera seed oil), hemp seed oil (cannabis sativa seed oil), meadowfoam seed oil (limnanthes alba seed oil), macadamia nut oil (macadamia ternifolia seed oil), oat (avena sativa kernel oil), raspberry seed oil (rubus idaeus seed oil), rose oil (rosa damascena flower oil), sesame seed oil (sesamum indicum seed oil), olive oil (olea europea fruit oil), sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed extract), hazelnut oil (corylus avellana seed oil). Among the vegetable oils composed of monoesters we can cite jojoba oil (simmondsia chinensis seed oil), and among the vegetable oils composed of hydrocarbons we can cite among others squalene (squalene) which is polyunsaturated and its derivatives, and squalane (squalane) which is saturated.

Oils can be of mineral origin, derived from petroleum, synthetic. These are for example, but not limited to, paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum) and their derivatives, hydrogenated polybutenes (hydrogenated polybutene, alkanes of different carbon chain lengths, from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, among those -ci isohexadecane, isododecane, C13-15 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C9-12 alkane Linear or cyclic silicone oils and their derivatives, such as caprylyl methicone, dimethicone, methicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, lauryl phenylpropyl methicone, cyclomethicone The oils can be branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, among these alcohols of Guerbet such as ethylhexanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol.

Mention may be made, for example, of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, composed of one or more fatty acids composed of 5 to 22 carbon atoms and of one or more fatty alcohols composed of 3 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acids can comprise one or more acid functions, and the fatty alcohols can comprise one or more alcohol functions. These esters can be of natural origin, be partially of natural origin, or be of synthetic origin. Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, their ease of formulation, and their good acceptance by consumers. These may be, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, ceteraryl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isoeicosan, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate , octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyldodecanol, oleyl lactate, oleyl alcohol, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, cetearyl ethylnoate , cetearyl isononanoate, ce tyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isocetyl behenate, isopropyl steavocate avocado, isostearyldatea , isostearyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate tridecaprylate/neopentanoate glycoloprate, propylene stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.

Solid fatty substances

The substances making it possible to harden the composition of the oily mixtures can be butters or waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin or their derivatives. These waxes or butters can be introduced in mass proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% relative to the cosmetic composition. The fatty substances making it possible to harden the compositions are butters which are solid at 20° C. and liquid at temperatures close to that of the skin above 40° C., waxes which are solid at 20° C. and liquid above 60° C. vs.

Butters are interesting for this application by their ease of formulation, are very good emollients and positively modify the sensory of the compositions. They provide hardness to the compositions while allowing spreading on the skin facilitated by their melting properties. The origins of the butters that can be used in the invention are for example, but not limited to, shea butter and its derivatives (butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), cocoa butter (theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter) , mango butter (mangifera indica (mango) seed butter), cupuaçu butter (theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), kokum butter (garcinia indica seed butter), mowrah butter (bassia latifolia seed butter), butter of sal (shorea robusta seed butter), murumuru butter (astrocaryum murumuru seed butter), ucuuba butter (virola sebifera nut oil), bacuri butter (platonia insignis seed butter).

Butters from modified vegetable oils can also be used. These are derived from partially hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins, or vegetable oils of all origins mixed with partially or totally hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins.

Triglycerides reconstituted from different fatty acids can help structure the oily mixture. These triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue and three linear fatty acid residues with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 22 carbon atoms such as the following materials: glycerol trilaurate (trilaurin), glycerol trimyristate (trimyristin ), glycerol tripalmitate (tripalmitin), glycerol tristearate (tristearin), glycerol triarachidate (triarachidin), glycerol tribehenate (tribehenin), glycerol trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin).

Triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and consist of mixtures of linear fatty acids with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used, among these we can cite C10-18 triglycerides (C10- 18 triglycerides) of variable melting points, C18-36 triglycerides (C18-36 triglycerides) of variable melting points.

Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of a fatty acid with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms having the physical characteristics of butters can also be used. Among these may be mentioned, but not limited to, esters such as isostearyl behenate, isostearyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, octylpalmitate, cetylpalmitate, stearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, jojoba esters produced by interesterification of oil of jojoba, hydrogenation of jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two transformations (jojoba esters).

Waxes of vegetable or animal origin can be for example, but not limited to, candelilla wax (euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), carnauba wax (copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax), beeswax (beeswax), sumac wax also called Japanese wax (rhus verniciflua (sumac) peel cera), rice wax (oryza sativa (rice) bran wax), sunflower wax (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil) , myrica wax (myrica cerifera (bayberry) fruit wax), rose waxes (rosa centifolia flower wax and rosa damascena flower wax), orange wax (citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax). Fats that are solid at room temperature can be obtained from hydrogenated vegetable oils which can be, for example, but not limited to, hydrogenated vegetable oils whose composition is not specified (hydrogenated vegetable oil), argan oil (hydrogenated argania spinosa kernel oil), hydrogenated olive oil (hydrogenated olive oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (hydrogenated coconut oil), hydrogenated apricot kernel oil (hydrogenated oil), hydrogenated canola oil, hydrogenated pistacia vera seed oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated soybean oil ( hydrogenated soybean oil), hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sweet almond oil, hydrogenated castor oil.

Waxes of mineral or synthetic origin can make it possible to structure the oily mixture. These waxes can be mineral waxes resulting from the distillation of petroleum and composed of hydrocarbons with branched or linear chains, such as microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline wax), paraffin waxes (paraffin wax). Waxes extracted from lignite or coal or any other sedimentary rock, such as ozokerite wax (ozokerite), lignite wax or Montan wax and their waxes resulting from purification processes such as ceresin wax (paraffin) . Waxes from the Fisher-Tropsch process obtained by catalysis of carbon monoxide and hydrogen such as synthetic waxes and synthetic beeswax. Waxes from the silicone family, such as lauryl phenylisopropyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone, dimethiconol stearate, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone.

Oily gelling agents

Other substances for hardening oily mixtures are gelling agents of natural or synthetic origin. Among these gelling agents which can harden oily mixtures, we can cite polyamides. These can be for example, but not limited to, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, polyamide-4, polyamide-8. These polyamides are usually used as film-forming agents in cosmetics. They also make it possible to obtain gelled oils when used in sufficient proportions by mass, typically greater than 10%. The gelling power depends on the type of polyamide used. Glutamic acid derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide can also be used to gel the oily phase and provide transparency properties. These are used in mass proportions of between 1% and 20%, preferably between 3% and 15%, and in particular between 4% and 12% relative to the fatty phase. Hydroxystearic acid can be used to provide a gel texture. Dextrin derivatives can also be used, with varied sensory effects depending on the carbon chain grafted onto the dextrin biopolymer. Among these we can cite dextrin palmitate (dextrin palmitate), dextrin myristate (dextrin myristate), dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, dextrin isostearate. Stearoyl inulin can also be used to form gels.

It is possible to adjust the consistency of the compositions by introducing into the mixture substances of mineral origin, modified or not, such as clays, silicates and silicas. These clays can be, for example, but not limited to, bentone and its derivatives, hectorite and its derivatives, montmorillonite and its derivatives. The silicates can be for example, but not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium silicate. The silicas can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, fumed silicas (silica) and modified silicas.

Emulsifiers

The compositions ideally contain one or more emulsifiers, making it possible to obtain a homogeneous mixture of the aqueous phase in the oily phase.

These emulsifiers can be, but are not limited to, ethoxylated compounds, propoxylated compounds, and silicone derivatives. This is particularly the case for bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, bis-PEG/ PPG-14/14 dimethicone, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7/dimethicone copolymer, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 dimethicone, oleth-2.

These emulsifiers can be, but are not limited to, esters of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol. This is particularly the case of polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 sorbityl linseedate , polyglyceryl-4 oleate, glyceryl olivate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 behenate, polyglyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate.

These emulsifiers can be, without being limited thereto, esters of fatty acids and sorbitol or sorbitan such as sorbitan oleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan tristearate.

Cationic emulsifiers can be used to modify the sensory of the product.

UV filters

The compositions also contain chemical or mineral filters allowing the product to provide sun protection to the user. The filters can be used alone or preferably as a mixture of defined composition. The sunscreen(s) represent a mass proportion of between 1% and 50%, preferably between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 35% relative to the cosmetic composition. This mixture of defined composition makes it possible, for example, to be able to claim protection performance according to the regulations in force in the geographical areas where the product wishes to be marketed. This concerns in particular the performance in protection in the field of ultraviolet A, called UVA, and in the field of ultraviolet B, called UVB.

The filters used can for example be of mineral origin. Filters can also be of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, in particular certain vegetable oils with sun protection properties.

These filters can be for example, but not limited to, metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as, for example, but not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzodophenone trisiloxane-4, diaminophenone-4 dicamphor , ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, peg-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine.

In addition to the UV screening agents which may be contained in the compositions, certain water-soluble UV screening agents may be added to the composition in the aqueous phase. This is the case, for example, of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Composition of the aqueous phase

The aqueous phase is mainly composed of water, with a mass percentage preferably greater than 40%, and in particular between 75% and 95%. The water can be demineralized or not, be from a natural source, be a juice, a juice recomposed from a dry extract, be a floral water. The aqueous phase represents a mass proportion of between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, and in particular between 10% and 40% relative to the cosmetic composition.

The high water content among the other ingredients of the aqueous phase makes it possible to obtain ease of spreading and freshness on application of the compositions of the invention. The compositions cast in the form of sticks applied to the skin make it possible to immediately lower the temperature of the surface of the skin by 1.5°C. The temperature then returns to its initial value after a period of 30 seconds.

Conservatives

The aqueous phase contains preservatives, and according to one embodiment preservatives coupled with other molecules having a certain antimicrobial efficacy. Among these we can list glycols, glycerine esters, essential oils, certain plant extracts, peptides, organic acids and their associated salts, certain phospholipids. The preservatives and preservation aids are ideally chosen so as to be compatible with the other ingredients, in particular the gelling agents of the aqueous phase, so as not to affect the viscosity of the aqueous gel. These glycols can be for example, but without being limited thereto, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol. Glycerin esters can be for example, but not limited to, ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate. The essential oils can be for example, but not limited to, essential oil of cinnamon, essential oil of cloves, essential oil of eucalyptus, essential oil of lavender, thyme essential oil, rosemary essential oil, tea tree essential oil, lemongrass essential oil. The plant extracts can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, extracts of bark of trees such as aspen or birch, extracts of blackcurrant. The organic acids and their associated salts can be for example, but not limited to, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, p-anisic acid, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylic acid, levulinic acid, undecylenic acid. Phospholipids can be for example, but not limited to, sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
Additional ingredients that may be part of the composition s

Various ingredients can be added to the compositions to improve their attractiveness, such as perfumes, touch agents, colorants, pigments, and active agents.

Perfumes can be of synthetic or natural origin. Among these we can cite essential oils. The perfumes incorporated into the compositions have the advantage of being released when the product is applied to the skin, which reinforces the transformation effect of the product on use.

Feel-good agents can be fillers making it easier to spread the product through their lubricating properties, or improving the sensory on application and after application, making it possible to limit the stickiness and/or shine of the formulas. These touch agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Among these we can cite silicas and silica derivatives, plastic particles based on PMMA, Nylon. Cellulose and cellulose derivatives. Starches and starch derivatives. Clays and clay derivatives. Metallic particles or metallic oxides.

Dyes can be of natural or synthetic origin. Ideally, the color makes the product attractive but the skin is not tinted when the product is applied.

The pigments make it possible to bring color to the product and can advantageously make it possible to be able to modify the color of the skin during the application of the product, to produce a good-looking or tanned effect. The pigments can also make it possible to reinforce the action of sun protection by absorbing or reflecting part of the radiation.

The active ingredients can be vitamins and their derivatives, antiseptic and anti-acne molecules, keratolytics, depigmentants, anti-inflammatories, esters of so-called essential mineral salts, oils of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, vegetable extracts with benefits for the skin.

Examples

Several representative compositions of the invention are presented as examples below. These examples are not limiting.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE AT 9.25 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE AT 25.0 THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER AT 5.0 CANDELILLA CERA AT 12.0 RICINUS COMMUNIS ROOT EXTRACT& STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE& PROPYLENE CARBONATE AT 3.6 POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE AT 0.5 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE AT 0.5 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE AT 0.1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE AT 3.0 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE AT 10.0 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE AT 5.0 ZINC OXIDE AT 5.0 TITANIUM DIOXIDE & SILICA AT 5.0 AQUA B 10.0 1,2-HEXANEDIOL B 0.25 PENTYLENE GLYCOL B 0.25 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL B 0.05 GLYCERIN B 5.0 MAGNESIUM SULFATE B 0.5

The procedure for the example given in Table 1 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are heated to 75°C and homogenized with a rotor-stator mixer (Silverson L5) at a speed of 7000 rpm. The ingredients of aqueous phase B are heated and homogenized at 60°C using a stirrer with a deflocculating paddle. Phase B is then added to phase A with the rotor-stator mixer at a speed of 4000 rpm at 60°C until the whole is homogeneous.

The composition given in Table 1 has a content of natural origin greater than 75% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard, and an SPF greater than 50. The temperature of the surface of the skin is reduced by 1.2°C immediately after application of the product on the skin, following the measurement protocol described above.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE AT 10.0 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE AT 19.0 RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL AT 3.0 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE AT 0.1 THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER AT 6.0 CANDELILLA CERA AT 8.0 RICINUS COMMUNIS ROOT EXTRACT& STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE& PROPYLENE CARBONATE AT 2.0 POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE AT 0.5 POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE AT 0.5 CI 77499 B 0.005 CI 77491 B 0.063 CI 77492 B 0.682 TITANIUM DIOXIDE [NANO]& SILICA VS 15.0 ZINC OXIDE [NANO] VS 15.0 AQUA D 14.1 1,2-HEXANEDIOL D 0.25 PENTYLENE GLYCOL D 0.25 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL D 0.05 GLYCERIN D 5.0 MAGNESIUM SULFATE D 0.5

The procedure for the example given in Table 3 is as follows: the ingredients of phase A are heated to 75°C and homogenized with a rotor-stator mixer (Silverson L5) at a speed of 7000 rpm. The pigments of phase B are then added under the same conditions to phase A. The mineral UV filters of phase C are then added under the same conditions to phase A+B. The ingredients of the aqueous phase D are heated and homogenized at 60°C using a stirrer with a deflocculating paddle. Phase D is then added to phase A+B+C with the rotor-stator mixer at a speed of 4000 rpm until the whole is homogeneous.

The composition given in Table 2 has a content of natural origin greater than 99% calculated according to the ISO16128 standard, and an SPF greater than 50. The temperature of the surface of the skin is reduced by 1.5°C immediately after application of the product on the skin, following the measurement protocol described above.

Claims (6)

Composition for cosmetic use characterized by a solid emulsion composed of an oily phase containing one or more fatty substances which are solid at 20°C, one or more fatty substances which are liquid at 20°C, sunscreens, a pair of emulsifiers derived from glycerol and fatty acids, a dispersed aqueous phase composed mainly of water. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the emulsion is in solid form at a temperature below 55°C. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase represents a mass proportion of between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, and in particular between 10% and 30% relative to the cosmetic composition. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the sunscreens, preferably of mineral origin, present in a mass proportion of between 1% and 50%, preferably between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 35% with respect to the cosmetic composition. Composition according to Claim 1, containing fatty substances which are solid at 20°C introduced in mass proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% relative to the cosmetic composition. Composition according to Claim 1, containing a pair of emulsifiers chosen from the category of ethoxylated emulsifiers, preferably are chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, or from fatty acid and sorbitan esters.