FR3106751A1 - Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel containing in suspension gelled lipid beads in which sun filters are incorporated. - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition in the form of a transparent aqueous gel containing in suspension gelled transparent lipid beads in which sunscreens are incorporated. This cosmetic composition is characterized by a continuous aqueous phase thickened with a hydrophilic gelling agent, in which are suspended lipid beads with an average diameter of between 200 and 10,000 μm. These beads are composed of an oil or mixture of oils gelled with one or more lipophilic gelling agents, in which chemical sunscreens are dissolved or dispersed. This new sun protection formula offers an attractive visual appearance for the consumer, has a surprising sensory application for the consumer and the person skilled in the art, and ideally offers improved hold, in particular resistance to water or perspiration, due to the absence of surfactants in the formula. The compositions according to the present invention are particularly intended to protect users from damage linked to exposure to the sun.

Description

Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel containing in suspension gelled lipid beads in which sunscreens are incorporated.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel in which are suspended small beads of a lipid substance, solid and non-hydrophilic, being loaded with chemical or mineral sunscreens.

The compositions according to the present invention are particularly intended to protect users from damage linked to exposure to the sun.

These balls have diameters of between 200 and 10,000 μm, are spherical in shape, preferably have a uniform size, and melt on contact with the skin or during friction against the skin.

The sensory experience on application is particularly interesting due to the fact that the product is composed of two distinct phases, and the fact that the internal oily phase is of macroscopic size of the order of a millimeter. On application, a first impression of freshness is provided by the continuous phase composed of an aqueous gel. The water fraction evaporates, providing an immediate cool sensation. The beads suspended in the gel are evenly distributed over the surface of the skin, and are placed in direct contact with the skin during the evaporation of the aqueous continuous phase. Thus, in a second time the beads break on friction and uniformly cover the surface of the skin in a thin oily film. This second sensoriality leaves an impression of protection and comfort. The sunscreens are thus distributed evenly on the skin without having to rub for a long time to distribute the product, reducing the impression of unwanted stickiness in the sunscreen formulas.

Ideally, the thickness of the oily film is homogeneous over the entire surface of the skin by selecting the gelling agent and the general composition of the beads, allowing effective protection over the entire surface where the product is applied.

The absence of surfactants in the formula provides ideal hold, especially in the event of perspiration or immersion in fresh or salt water, which is often the case when using sunscreen formulas. Thus, unlike conventional creams containing emulsifiers, the composition applied remains on the surface of the skin and makes it possible to preserve the protective performance expected of the product. The better hold of the product on the surface of the skin also helps preserve the environment by limiting water pollution. This is particularly interesting in the current context of efforts to preserve ecosystems such as coral reefs. The absence of surfactants also allows better tolerance of the product by so-called sensitive skin.

The ingredients of the composition can be of mineral, synthetic or natural origin. The ingredients are preferably chosen of natural origin, making it possible to obtain compositions having percentages of natural origin above 75% for a sun protection factor (SPF) 50 and above 85% of natural origin for an FPS of 30.

The product described in this invention is ideally superior in performance compared to certain bi-phase sunscreen products available on the market. These two-phase products are typically composed half of a fluid aqueous phase typically separated and below of a fluid oily phase.

The advanced interest of this category of marketed products is also a feeling of freshness on application and an absence of surfactants. The user mixes these two phases himself by shaking the container, mixing the product more or less intimately according to subjective criteria, such as the agitation movement, the amplitude of the movement, the agitation time, etc. Application is hazardous if not mixed properly, possibly leading to single-phase application in the extreme case of product not being shaken. Product performance is not guaranteed in this extreme case of misuse. Unlike the existing two-phase products described above, the invention makes it possible to guarantee correct application of the product because the beads are distributed homogeneously in the gelled aqueous phase. They are not likely to shift or sediment, but retain an attractive visual appearance because the two phases are discernible to the naked eye.

Viscosity of compositions

The viscosity of the different compositions of the invention varies according to the ingredients selected, their percentages, and the method of mixing. The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure using a Brookfield model RVT viscometer. The speed selected is commonly the speed of 10 rpm. The mobile is selected according to the viscosity of the product. All viscosities are measured on approximately 100g samples, in the same glass container format, allowing reliable comparison of viscosities of different compositions. The measurement is taken over an interval of one minute, the value indicated on the device is recorded once stabilized, and the viscosity expressed in mPa.s.

Bead characterization

The beads are observed under a Motic DM-1802 optical microscope equipped with a high resolution 3.0 megapixel camera. Images are acquired using Motic Image Plus 2.0 software. The compositions of the invention can be observed at three different magnifications, 40, 100 and 400. The diameters of the balls can be measured on the software thanks to a prior calibration with reticles of known dimensions. The general aspect of the balls can also be evaluated, such as the surface roughness, the cohesion of the balls is evaluated by their ability to maintain a spherical shape, their surface homogeneity. The phenomena of crystallization that can take place are observed thanks to two polarizing filters, which is put into practice for the study of the recrystallization of the chemical filters contained in the compositions.

Composition stability

The compositions are stabilized the day after their manufacture. Stability studies are carried out at 4°C, 45°C and 55°C. Samples are prepared in 30 mL glass pillboxes and placed in FALC ICT 120 model incubators. A control is kept at room temperature. The developed compositions are then observed and compared at regular weekly intervals. The sensory characteristics and the general appearance of the compositions are compared between the different temperatures. The physico-chemical phenomena that can take place within the different compositions are noted by sensory analysis, observation under the microscope, viscosity measurement, and pH measurement.

pH measurement

The pH of the compositions is measured using a Hanna pH 209 pH meter.

Oil phase

The compositions comprise a gelled oily phase in the form of beads. By the expression "bead", as used according to the invention, is meant a particle characterized by a diameter of between 200 and 10,000 μm, a homogeneous and smooth surface as observed with the naked eye, having a ability to maintain this shape at operating temperatures of up to 45°C. Unlike drops, these beads can be isolated from the aqueous gel using a spatula, and left to dry at room temperature while retaining their shape. These beads also keep their shape when the product is placed on the skin without friction, allowing the user to observe them before full application of the product. This contributes to the positively surprising and innovative effect of this new galenic of sunscreen product.

Oils

The beads comprise according to the embodiments one or more oils. These oils are liquid at room temperature, and can be of mineral, synthetic, animal or vegetable origin. The oil content for the fatty phase is between 1% and 99%, preferably between 20% and 90%, and in particular between 30% and 60%. The ingredients listed below follow the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). For the convenience of the reader, the INCI is indicated directly, or the common name is indicated followed by the INCI in parentheses.

The oils can be oils of vegetable origin, typically composed of triglycerides. These are for example, but not limited to, almond oil (prunus amygdalus dulcis oil), apricot kernel oil (prunus armeniaca kernel oil), argan oil (argania spinosa oil), avocado oil (persea gratissima oil), baobab oil (adansonia digitata seed oil), camelina oil (camelina sativa seed oil), castor oil (ricinus communis seed oil), coconut oil (cocos nucifera oil), grapeseed oil (vitis vinifera seed oil), hemp seed oil (cannabis sativa seed oil), meadowfoam seed oil (limnanthes alba seed oil), macadamia nut oil (macadamia ternifolia seed oil), oat (avena sativa kernel oil), raspberry seed oil (rubus idaeus seed oil), rose oil (rosa damascena flower oil), sesame seed oil (sesamum indicum seed oil), olive oil (olea europea fruit oil), sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed extract), hazelnut oil (corylus avellana seed oil). Among the vegetable oils composed of monoesters we can cite jojoba oil (simmondsia chinensis seed oil), and among the vegetable oils composed of hydrocarbons we can cite among others squalene (squalene) which is polyunsaturated and its derivatives, and squalane (squalane) which is saturated.

Oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin. These are for example, but not limited to, paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum) and their derivatives, hydrogenated polybutenes (hydrogenated polybutene, alkanes of different carbon chain lengths, from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, among those -ci isohexadecane, isododecane, C13-15 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C9-12 alkane Linear or cyclic silicone oils and their derivatives, such as caprylyl methicone, dimethicone, methicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, lauryl phenylpropyl methicone, cyclomethicone The oils can be branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, among these alcohols of Guerbet such as ethylhexanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol.

Mention may be made, for example, of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, composed of one or more fatty acids composed of 5 to 22 carbon atoms and of one or more fatty alcohols composed of 3 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acids can comprise one or more acid functions, and the fatty alcohols can comprise one or more alcohol functions. These esters can be of natural origin, be partially of natural origin, or be of synthetic origin. Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, their ease of formulation, and their good acceptance by consumers. These may be, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, ceteraryl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isoeicosan, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate C12-15 alkyl benzoate caprylyl caprylate/caprate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isocetyl behenate, isopropyl stearate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate/caprate , propylene glycol dicaprylate/caprate, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.

Oily gelling agents

The substances making it possible to harden the composition of the oily mixtures can be butters or waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin or their derivatives. These waxes or butters can be introduced in mass proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 10% and 30% relative to the fatty phase. In the remainder of the description, butter is understood to mean fatty substances that are solid at ambient temperature, which melt at temperatures close to that of the skin. By wax, we mean fats that are solid at room temperature, which melt at temperatures above that of the skin.

Butters are interesting for this application because of their ease of formulation, are very good emollients and positively modify the sensory experience of the beads. They bring hardness to the balls while allowing them to be spread on the skin, facilitated by their melting properties. The origins of the butters that can be used in the invention are for example, but not limited to, shea butter and its derivatives (butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), cocoa butter (theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter) , mango butter (mangifera indica (mango) seed butter), cupuaçu butter (theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), kokum butter (garcinia indica seed butter), mowrah butter (bassia latifolia seed butter), butter of sal (shorea robusta seed butter), murumuru butter (astrocaryum murumuru seed butter), ucuuba butter (virola sebifera nut oil), bacuri butter (platonia insignis seed butter).

Butters from modified vegetable oils can also be used. These are derived from partially hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins, or vegetable oils of all origins mixed with partially or totally hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins.

Triglycerides reconstituted from different fatty acids can help structure the oily mixture. These triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue and three linear fatty acid residues with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 22 carbon atoms such as the following materials: glycerol trilaurate (trilaurin), glycerol trimyristate (trimyristin ), glycerol tripalmitate (tripalmitin), glycerol tristearate (tristearin), glycerol triarachidate (triarachidin), glycerol tribehenate (tribehenin), glycerol trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin).

Triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and consist of mixtures of linear fatty acids with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used, among these we can cite C10-18 triglycerides (C10- 18 triglycerides) of variable melting points, C18-36 triglycerides (C18-36 triglycerides) of variable melting points.

Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of a fatty acid with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms having the physical characteristics of butters can also be used. Among these may be mentioned, but not limited to, esters such as isostearyl behenate, isostearyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, octylpalmitate, cetylpalmitate, stearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, jojoba esters produced by interesterification of oil of jojoba, hydrogenation of jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two transformations (jojoba esters).

Waxes of vegetable or animal origin can be for example, but not limited to, candelilla wax (euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), carnauba wax (copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax), beeswax (beeswax), sumac wax also called Japanese wax (rhus verniciflua (sumac) peel cera), rice wax (oryza sativa (rice) bran wax), sunflower wax (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil) , myrica wax (myrica cerifera (bayberry) fruit wax), rose waxes (rosa centifolia flower wax and rosa damascena flower wax), orange wax (citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax). Fats that are solid at room temperature can be obtained from hydrogenated vegetable oils which can be, for example, but not limited to, hydrogenated vegetable oils whose composition is not specified (hydrogenated vegetable oil), argan oil (hydrogenated argania spinosa kernel oil), hydrogenated olive oil (hydrogenated olive oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (hydrogenated coconut oil), hydrogenated apricot kernel oil (hydrogenated oil), hydrogenated canola oil, hydrogenated pistacia vera seed oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated soybean oil ( hydrogenated soybean oil), hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sweet almond oil, hydrogenated castor oil.

Waxes of mineral or synthetic origin can make it possible to structure the oily mixture. These waxes can be mineral waxes resulting from the distillation of petroleum and composed of hydrocarbons with branched or linear chains, such as microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline wax), paraffin waxes (paraffin wax). Waxes extracted from lignite or coal or any other sedimentary rock, such as ozokerite wax (ozokerite), lignite wax or Montan wax and their waxes resulting from purification processes such as ceresin wax (paraffin) . Waxes from the Fisher-Tropsch process obtained by catalysis of carbon monoxide and hydrogen such as synthetic waxes and synthetic beeswax. Waxes from the silicone family, such as lauryl phenylisopropyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone, dimethiconol stearate, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone.

Other substances for hardening oily mixtures are gelling agents of natural or synthetic origin. These gelling agents have the advantage of producing oily mixtures with greater degrees of transparency than by thickening or hardening the oily mixtures with waxes or butters. This can be especially useful for producing transparent marbles which provide a very attractive visual.

Among these gelling agents which can harden oily mixtures, we can cite polyamides. These can be for example, but not limited to, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, polyamide-4, polyamide-8. These polyamides are usually used as film-forming agents in cosmetics. They also make it possible to obtain gelled oils when used in sufficient proportions by mass, typically greater than 10%. The gelling power depends on the type of polyamide used. Glutamic acid derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide can also be used to gel the oily phase and provide transparency properties. These are used in mass proportions of between 1% and 20%, preferably between 3% and 15%, and in particular between 4% and 12% relative to the fatty phase. Hydroxystearic acid can be used to provide a gelled and translucent texture. Dextrin derivatives can also be used, with varied sensory effects depending on the carbon chain grafted onto the dextrin biopolymer. Among these we can cite dextrin palmitate (dextrin palmitate), dextrin myristate (dextrin myristate), dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, dextrin isostearate. Stearoyl inulin can also be used to form gels.

It is possible to adjust the consistency of the balls by introducing into the mixture substances of mineral origin, modified or not, such as clays, silicates and silicas. These clays can be, for example, but not limited to, bentone and its derivatives, hectorite and its derivatives, montmorillonite and its derivatives. The silicates can be for example, but not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium silicate. The silicas can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, fumed silicas (silica) and modified silicas.

UV filters

The beads also contain chemical or mineral filters allowing the product to provide sun protection to the user. The filters can be used alone or preferably as a mixture of defined composition. This mixture of defined composition makes it possible, for example, to be able to claim protection performance according to the regulations in force in the geographical areas where the product wishes to be marketed. This concerns in particular the performance in protection in the field of ultraviolet A, called UVA, and in the field of ultraviolet B, called UVB.

The filters used can for example be of mineral origin. Filters can also be of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, in particular certain vegetable oils with sun protection properties.

These filters can be for example, but not limited to, metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as, for example, but not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzodophenone trisiloxane-4, diaminophenone-4 dicamphor , ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, peg-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine.

In addition to the UV filters that may be contained in the beads, certain water-soluble UV filters can be added to the composition in the aqueous phase. This is the case, for example, of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Composition of the aqueous gel

The aqueous gel is mainly composed of water, with a mass percentage preferably greater than 40%, and in particular between 75% and 95%. The water can be demineralized or not, be from a natural source or be floral water. The high water content among the other ingredients of the aqueous gel makes it possible to obtain ease of spreading and freshness on application of the compositions of the invention.

Aqueous gelling agents

The viscosity of the aqueous gel is adjusted by selecting one or more gelling agents, and adjusting their introduction mass percentages, typically between 0.01% and 10%. Among the aqueous gelling agents, anionic polymers such as polyacrylates (sodium polyacrylate, acrylic acid, carbomer) and derivatives of polyacrylates can be used such as acrylates copolymer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Gums can be used, for example but not limited to, cellulose gums (cellulose gum), xanthan gums (xanthan gum), gellan gums (gellan gum), sclerotium gums (sclerotium gum), derivatives of biosaccharides such as biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2, biosaccharide gum-4, tara gums (caesalpinia spinosa gum), locust bean gums (ceratonia siliqua (carob) gum), tamarind gums (tamarindus indica seed polysaccharide), xanthan gums (xanthan), acacia gums (acacia senegal gum), natto gums (natto gum), guar gums (cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum) and their derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar , guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), carrageenan (carrageenan), cellulose (cellulose gum) and its derivatives such as cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose. Starch of various origins such as potato starch (solanum tuberosum (potato) starch), corn starch (zea mays (corn) starch, tapioca starch (tapioca starch) and derivatives of starch such as sodium carboxymethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch.

The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the pH using acids or bases, when the gelling agent is sensitive to them. This is particularly the case of anionic gelling agents such as polyacrylates and derivatives of polyacrylates.

The viscosity of the aqueous gel can also be adjusted by modifying the salinity of the medium, when the gelling agent is sensitive thereto. This is particularly the case of gelling agents such as carrageenans.

Conservatives

The aqueous phase contains preservatives, and according to one embodiment preservatives coupled with other molecules having a certain antimicrobial efficacy. Among these we can list glycols, glycerine esters, essential oils, certain plant extracts, peptides, organic acids and their associated salts, certain phospholipids. The preservatives and preservation aids are ideally chosen so as to be compatible with the other ingredients, in particular the gelling agents of the aqueous phase, so as not to affect the viscosity of the aqueous gel. These glycols can be for example, but without being limited thereto, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol. Glycerin esters can be for example, but not limited to, ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate. The essential oils can be for example, but not limited to, essential oil of cinnamon, essential oil of cloves, essential oil of eucalyptus, essential oil of lavender, thyme essential oil, rosemary essential oil, tea tree essential oil, lemongrass essential oil. The plant extracts can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, extracts of bark of trees such as aspen or birch, extracts of blackcurrant. The organic acids and their associated salts can be for example, but not limited to, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, p-anisic acid, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylic acid, levulinic acid, undecylenic acid. Phospholipids can be for example, but not limited to, sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
Additional ingredients that may be part of the composition s

Various ingredients can be added to the compositions to improve their attractiveness, such as perfumes, touch agents, colorants, pigments, and active agents.

Perfumes can be of synthetic or natural origin. Among these we can cite essential oils. The perfumes incorporated in the beads have the advantage of being released when the product is applied to the skin, which reinforces the transformation effect of the product during use.

Feel-good agents can be fillers making it easier to spread the product through their lubricating properties, or improving the sensory on application and after application, making it possible to limit the stickiness and/or shine of the formulas. These touch agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Among these we can cite silicas and silica derivatives, plastic particles based on PMMA, Nylon. Cellulose and cellulose derivatives. Starches and starch derivatives. Clays and clay derivatives. Metallic particles or metallic oxides.

Dyes can be of natural or synthetic origin. They color the beads or the aqueous phase. Ideally, the color makes the product attractive by making it easier to distinguish the beads in the aqueous gel, but the skin is not tinted when the product is applied.

The pigments make it possible to bring color to the product and can advantageously make it possible to be able to modify the color of the skin during the application of the product, to produce a good-looking or tanned effect. The pigments can also make it possible to reinforce the action of sun protection by absorbing or reflecting part of the radiation.

The active ingredients can be vitamins and their derivatives, antiseptic and anti-acne molecules, keratolytics, depigmentants, anti-inflammatories, esters of so-called essential mineral salts, oils of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin having benefits for the skin. Plant extracts.

Means of obtaining compositions

The beads can be obtained by various means, by millifluidic process, by microfluidic process, by simple emulsion with a mixer, projection by a rotating disc, spraying, extrusion, drop-by-drop flow, passage through a grid, by division of an oily mass gelled by any mechanical means. The production processes can therefore be carried out cold or hot, with or without pressure or flow.

Preferably, the composition and the means of obtaining are chosen to allow reproducibility of the visual, sensory and physico-chemical characteristics of the product. Preferably, the size of the beads is homogeneous in the product, meaning that the beads have similar diameters between them. Alternatively, compositions can be mixed after production precisely to obtain different bead sizes or different bead colors in the product, when this visual effect is desired.

The preferred method of preparation is reported below. All the ingredients of the fatty phase are mixed, and the whole is heated to approximately 5°C above the melting or glass transition temperature of the substance having the highest melting or glass transition temperature . The whole is mixed until complete homogeneity.

Alternatively, some of the temperature-tolerant ingredients can be mixed to dissolve or disperse the gelling agents, and the rest of the ingredients can then be added at more moderate temperatures to preserve them.

The oily mixture can be cooled and solidified to produce beads at another time, can be reheated reversibly. The prepared molten mass or part of the mass is then trickled into the aqueous phase maintained under agitation by a rotary system, typically with a deflocculating blade or under orbital agitation.

Several parameters influencing the size of the droplets are adjusted to obtain the expected product. These parameters are, for example, the speed of rotation of the agitator, the geometry of the container and of the agitator, the viscosity and composition of the two phases, the temperature of the fatty phase, the temperature of the aqueous phase, the flow rate of incorporation of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase.

The product obtained, composed of oil droplets suspended in an aqueous gel, is then cooled with or without stirring. This cooling is done by any necessary and suitable means, such as cooling in the open air in the case of a small volume, by soaking the container in a cold bath, by circulating a cooling liquid in a double- envelope containing the mixture, by moving the container in a cold environment such as a fridge or freezer of dimensions adapted to the container. After the mixture has cooled, the oil droplets freeze and solidify to give beads that are more resistant to mechanical stress.

The product can then be directly transferred to any other container. The product can also continue to be worked by adding ingredients under moderate agitation by any means described above. These ingredients can be, among other things, active agents, perfumes, pH correctors, dyes, pigments, powders.

Examples

Several representative compositions of the invention are reported below.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 INCI Phase Composition (% mass) Aqua AT 56,115 49.006 51,947 Glycerine AT 1 1 1 Pentylene glycol AT 2.5 2.5 2.5 1,2-hexanediol AT 1.5 1.5 1.5 Caprylyl glycol AT 0.15 0.15 0.15 Carbomer AT 0.2 0.25 0.3 Xanthan gum AT 0.01 0.01 0.01 Sodium hydroxide AT 0.02 0.025 0.03 Dicaprylyl carbonate B 15 20 15 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate B 5.5 5.5 5.5 Ethylhexyl triazone B 2 2 2 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine B 3.5 3.5 3.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate B 5.5 5.5 5.5 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane B 5 5 5 Octyldodecanol & Dibutyl lauroyl glutamide & Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide B 5 4 6 Tocopheryl acetate B 0.04 0.04 0.04 Sodium hydroxide VS 0.015 0.019 0.023

The ingredient mixture octyldodecanol & dibutyl lauroyl glutamide & dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is marketed as AJK-OD2046 by Ajinomoto.

The ingredients of phase A are mixed with stirring with a deflocculating paddle, heating the mixture to 75°C. The carbomer of phase A is then partially neutralized with soda (sodium hydroxide) in a pH range typically between 4 and 5.5 until the desired viscosity is obtained, typically between 500 and 1500 mP.s.

The ingredients of phase B are mixed separately under stirring with a deflocculating blade, by heating the mixture to 75°C until the UV filters and gelling agents have completely dissolved.

Phase B is then added to phase A at a controlled stirring speed, depending on the volume of the mixture and the geometry of the stirrer. The size of the beads depends on the stirring speed, the stirring time and the composition of the two phases. The mixing is carried out at a temperature at which the two phases are liquid, typically above 60°C.

The whole is then cooled to room temperature without stirring. The system freezes, the oily gelling agent(s) solidifying the beads. The pH of the mixture can be modified by adding sodium hydroxide, which neutralizes the carbomer, until a desired viscosity is obtained to avoid the separation of the oil phase from the aqueous phase.

Claims (8)

Composition for cosmetic use characterized by an aqueous gel in which are suspended beads having an average diameter of between 200 and 10,000 µm, composed of a lipid substance which is solid at ambient temperature, and containing in particular sunscreens. Advantageously, the composition contains ingredients having the highest possible percentages of natural origin. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the beads are transparent or translucent, colored or not. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the proportion by weight of beads is between 5 and 70%. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the beads are resistant to mechanical stresses considered normal when they pass through the orifice of a cosmetic container, allowing them in particular to keep their visual appearance when they leave the tube. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that a hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the aqueous phase in a proportion of between 0.02 and 20%. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that a lipophilic gelling agent is present in the oily phase in a proportion of between 0.02 and 90%. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous gel is composed of at least 40% water. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the beads have melting points of between 40 and 65°C.