EP4366684A1

EP4366684A1 - Oily droplets and two-phase composition comprising said droplets

Info

Publication number: EP4366684A1
Application number: EP22748398.9A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marine LAFONT; Claudine GEOFFROY
Original assignee: Laboratories de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Current assignee: Laboratories de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Priority date: 2021-07-05
Filing date: 2022-06-30
Publication date: 2024-05-15
Also published as: FR3124697A1; WO2023281188A1

Abstract

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular for care and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably of the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body), more particularly to the field of compositions such as anti-ageing, moisturising or make-up removal compositions. [2] The present invention relates to an oily droplet comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and lauroyl lysine, and to the use thereof in a two-phase cosmetic composition. The invention also includes a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets, said cosmetic composition being selected from an anti-ageing, moisturising or make-up removal composition, as well as the use of the two-phase cosmetic composition for cosmetic care and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably of the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body), as well as a cosmetic method for care and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably of the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body). Finally, the invention comprises a method for manufacturing the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Description

OILY DROPS AND BIPHASIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE SAID DROPS

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), more particularly to that of compositions such as anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing compositions.

[2] The present invention relates to an oily droplet comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid, as well as to its use in a biphasic cosmetic composition. The invention also includes a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets, said cosmetic composition being chosen from an anti-ageing, moisturizing or makeup-removing composition, as well as the use of biphasic cosmetic composition for cosmetic care and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably lips and/or skin (face and/or body), as well as a cosmetic care process, and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably of the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body). Finally, the invention comprises a process for manufacturing the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[3] The plaintiff is a creator of Botanical Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its search for raw materials and its expertise in formulation drives it to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. . In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is leading an innovation process to substitute ingredients from non-renewable and not easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of products for consumers. [4] Two-phase compositions are compositions which have gained importance in recent years, particularly in the field of make-up removers: the interest of these two phases is to allow the make-up to be dissolved with the oily phase and to remove the excess with the aqueous phase. Conventionally, “two-phase” or “two-phase” composition means a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase, comprising oils and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous by stirring. and again return to two separate phases after stopping the stirring. The agitation may be manual agitation carried out by a user. Conventional biphasic compositions have numerous advantages such as in particular the absence of surfactants or emulsifiers, which gives them a certain advantage over conventional emulsions. They thus have no superfluous raw materials, and present more naturalness. However, despite these certain advantages, conventional biphasic compositions do not only have advantages and to this day retain certain constraints of use: the composition must, for example, be stirred before using it, which can harm its effectiveness if it does not is not sufficiently agitated by the user. This type of formulation also requires the choice of very hydrophilic and very lipophilic materials in order to guarantee a clear separation, which limits the choice in terms of raw materials. For certain applications, such as anti-ageing care, conventional biphasic compositions have an oily phase which can be very significant. Also, the need for conventional biphasic compositions to have, at rest, a clear interface, imposes constraints which may result in the impossibility of adding certain ingredients such as surfactants (emulsifying, solubilizing) certain perfumes or raw materials polar. Finally, for some of these biphasic compositions, the phase shift duration of the product (duration during which it is impossible to use the product which must remain at rest) can be restrictive when the user needs several successive uses.

[5] There is thus a need to propose new biphasic compositions which solve the problems observed in the known biphasic compositions. In particular, there is a need to provide oily droplets (which can be dispersed in an aqueous phase such as an aqueous gel) and/or biphasic cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets which allow easier handling for the user, better efficiency (in particular when it comes to composition of the anti-aging care type), an attractive visual appearance or even a soft and pleasant touch. In the particular case of anti-aging care and/or moisturizing compositions, there is the additional need to provide biphasic compositions comprising a minimum of fatty phase in order to limit the greasy effect on the skin.

[6] It is to the credit of the applicant to propose a new oily droplet, preferably composed of raw materials of natural origin and which, when incorporated into a two-phase cosmetic composition, allows easier handling for the user. /trice, better efficiency (especially when it comes to anti-aging care), to obtain an attractive visual, improved sensoriality as well as increased naturalness. The new oily droplet also makes it possible to obtain biphasic cosmetic compositions whose oily phase is lower (in quantity) compared to conventional biphasic compositions. The new oily droplet according to the invention makes it possible to provide, in biphasic cosmetic compositions, an oily phase in a transparent aqueous gel without emulsifier, to not need agitation for the use of said product, to increase its naturalness, but also to allow the incorporation of a perfume without solubilizer while keeping the transparency of the aqueous support (gel), and finally to bring an attractive visual to a classic care product.

[7] The invention thus relates to an oily droplet comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid.

[8] C8/C10/succinic triglycerides or "caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride" (INCI), for example CAS number = 91744-56-8, are glycerin esters fatty acids of vegetable origin in C8 and C10 fractionated, associated with natural succinic acid from a non-GMO fermentation.

[9] “Lipoamino acid” means a compound resulting from the combination of an amino acid and a fatty acid. The amino acid can be chosen from natural alpha-amino acids. The amino acid can be chosen from proteinogenic amino acids. Preferably, the amino acid is chosen from alanine, aspartic acid, glycine, glutamic acid, serine, cysteine, arginine, proline, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, isoleucine , phenylalanine, lysine and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amino acid is lysine or arginine. The fatty acid can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid can be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, caprylic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, caprylic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the lipoamino acid is chosen from lauroyl lysine (for example with CAS number=52315-75-0) capryloyl lysine (for example with CAS number=23735-96-8), and mixtures thereof.

[10] The oily droplet according to the invention may comprise:

- from 40% to 99.99% by mass of C8/C10/succinic triglycerides, preferably from 45 to 70%,

- from 0.01% to 40% by mass of at least one lipoamino acid, preferably from 20 to 40%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the oily droplet.

[11] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise:

- from 45 to 70% by mass of C8/C10/succinic triglycerides,

- from 20% to 40% by mass of at least one lipoamino acid, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the oily droplet. [12] Advantageously, the density of the oily droplet according to the invention is approximately 1.00. It is generally 1.00 to 1.02.

The relative density of a substance is the mass of a certain volume of this substance over the mass of the same volume of water. The measurement is made using a stainless steel pycnometer, at a temperature of 20 ± 2°C.

Measure :

Weigh the empty pycnometer. Note the mass of the empty pycnometer (mo).

Fill the pycnometer with water. Close the pycnometer and wipe off the excess water that has come out of the opening of the pycnometer with a paper towel.

Weigh the pycnometer filled with water (mi)

Then fill the pycnometer to the brim with the substance to be analyzed, avoiding the formation of air bubbles. Close the pycnometer by turning the lid.

Wipe off the excess product that has come out of the opening of the pycnometer with an absorbent paper.

Weigh the pycnometer filled with the substance (nri2).

The relative density of the product is given by the following relationship: d= mo, the mass of the empty pycnometer, mi, the mass of the pycnometer filled with water, nri2, the mass of the pycnometer filled with the substance.

[13] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention has an average diameter less than or equal to 3 mm, preferably 1 to 2 mm. For example, in a biphasic cosmetic composition, the diameter of the droplets can be measured under a Leica Si9 binocular loupe in its final packaging. Photos can be acquired using a conventional camera. The cosmetic composition can be deposited either at the bottom of a glass-bottom Petri dish or taken and mounted between slide and coverslip in order to be examined under a DMI6 light microscope. In the latter case, the serum can be observed under different lighting modes such as brightfield, interference and differential contrast or polarized light. [14] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a perfume, a dye, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic active ingredient.

[15] By lipophilic excipients, when it is liquid, we mean a liquid that is immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into the water at 25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, not soluble in water, that is to say when it is introduced at the rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

[16] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil can be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The oil is preferably of vegetable origin and/or preferably of natural origin.

[17] In the context of the invention, the term "oil" means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at temperature ambient. An oil is a water-immiscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. “Non-volatile” means an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C. [18] Advantageously, the oil can be chosen from the group comprising oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel oils , castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy, sunflower, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C10 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[19] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one oil, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.

[20] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise an ester. The ester can be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ester is preferably of vegetable origin and/or preferably of natural origin.

[21] Advantageously, the ester can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable esters, preferably chosen from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, stearate ethylhexyl, isononyl isononanoate, triglycerides of C8 to C30 alcohols (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[22] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one ester, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.

[23] Advantageously, the fatty acid can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid can be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof. [24] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one fatty acid, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.

[25] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[26] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one alcohol, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.

[27] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or dye. The pigment can be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and/or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, nacres and/or optical effect pigments. They can be synthetic or natural.

[28] In the context of the invention, the term "pigment" means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, mother-of-pearl, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The mineral (inorganic) pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.

[29] In the context of the invention, "mother-of-pearl" means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally has color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluoroflogopithe and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.

[30] In the context of the invention, “dye” means coloring substances that are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[31] Advantageously, the pigment can be chosen from bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide. Preferably, the pigment is bismuth oxychloride.

[32] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one pigment, preferably from 1 to 5%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[33] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% of at least one colorant, preferably from 0.02 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[34] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one perfume. The term “perfume” is understood to mean a perfuming composition whose primary function consists in modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.

[35] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 30% of at least one fragrance, preferably from 5 to 25%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[36] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[37] In the context of the invention, the term “cosmetic active” means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, maintaining them in good condition or to correct body odor. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient which acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying.

[38] Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, chamomile, chamomile, rosemary, calendula. The cosmetic active can be easily selected by the person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorant)

[39] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[40] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one essential oil. The term "essential oil" means an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the plant of origin. We mainly find terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, depending on the original composition.

[41] Advantageously, the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 1% of at least one essential oil, preferably from 0.01 to 0.8%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[42] The new oily droplet, object of the invention, thus solves these problems and disadvantages of the prior art. Surprisingly, the oily droplet, in biphasic cosmetic compositions, makes it possible to obtain the following advantages over the latter:

- to minimize the number of raw materials;

- to dispense with surfactants (emulsifiers/solubilizers); - to minimize the environmental impact;

- to give biphasic cosmetic compositions an attractive visual appearance

- to add a perfume without the need for a solubilizer;

- to offer practical use, without prior agitation;

- to improve sensoriality.

[43] The invention also relates to a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being suspended and dispersed in the gel.

[44] Advantageously, the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :

- from 0.11 to 10% by mass of oily phase in the form of droplets, preferably from 0.11 to 8%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 4%, and

- from 90 to 99.89% of aqueous phase in gel form, preferably from 92 to 99.89% and even more preferably from 96 to 99.5%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of composition.

[45] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :

- from 0.11 to 8% by mass of oily phase in the form of droplets, preferably from 0.5 to 4%, and

- from 92 to 99.89% of aqueous phase in gel form, preferably from 96 to 99.5%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the composition. [46] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :

- from 0.5 to 4% by mass of oily phase in the form of droplets, and

- from 96 to 99.5% of aqueous phase in gel form, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[47] A gel is generally understood to be a three-dimensional network of solids diluted in a fluid. This network may be the result of chemical or physical bonds, or of small crystals or other bonds which remain intact in the carrier fluid. To obtain a gel, the carrier fluid must be a good solvent for the basic molecules which form the network in order to allow swelling, which may be the case of water (hydrogel), oil or liquid. air (aerogel). By weight and by volume, the gels are mainly composed of the fluid, and therefore have densities close to those of the latter. According to the invention, the gel is an “aqueous gel” or “hydrogel”.

[48] Thus, in the context of the invention, the term “aqueous gel” or

"hydrogel", a gel whose carrier fluid is water and whose network is formed by a hydrophilic gelling agent, chosen in particular from a polysaccharide or a carbomer.

[49] Advantageously, the aqueous phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition is the aqueous gel. The oily phase consists of all the droplets which are dispersed in the aqueous gel. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is called "biphasic", insofar as it differs from an emulsion (which results from the heterogeneous mixture of two normally immiscible liquids, but which mix under the effect of agitation and the addition of emulsifiers) and that it also differs from a "conventional two-phase (or two-phase) cosmetic composition" insofar as the two phases are not superposed. In the biphasic compositions according to the invention, the oily droplets are homogeneously dispersed in the matrix formed by the aqueous gel, and these remain dispersed in the gel at rest, unlike a conventional biphasic composition, which at rest sees the two phases separate again. In the case of the biphasic compositions according to the invention, these are fatty substances (oily droplets) which have been inserted into an aqueous substrate (gel).

[50] Advantageously, the pH of the aqueous phase can be within a range ranging from 4.5 to 7.5, preferably 5. The pH can be adjusted with a pH adjuster, such as for example sodium hydroxide ( NaOH), L-arginine, citric acid or even lactic acid.

[51] Advantageously, the density of the gel, measured under the conditions as defined above, is around 1. It is generally 1.00 to 1.07.

[52] Advantageously, the densities of the two phases (aqueous and oily) of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are identical or almost identical (difference less than or equal to 0.05), which allows the oily droplets to be maintained in suspension in the gel, and thus confers on the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention a stability greater than or equal to 3 months at a temperature of 40°C. The composition is considered stable as long as the droplets remain in suspension in the gel: the droplets are distributed homogeneously throughout the gel without any sedimentation or creaming phenomenon being observed. The acceptability threshold is defined at 1% of droplets that sediment or rise to the surface (creaming phenomenon). The composition is considered stable until this threshold is reached.

[53] Advantageously, the viscosity of the aqueous phase (gel) of the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention is approximately 2000 to 15000 cps. For example, the viscosity can be measured using a BROOKFIELD AMETEK Model D220 type viscometer, according to the following protocol:

- Condition the sample in a 210mL or 100mL twist-off,

- Check that it is not bubbled, not aerated, and filled to 1cm from the opening,

- Thermostat the sample at 25°C,

- Center the container under the axis of the viscometer, - Adjust the height of the elevator,

- Check that the device is upgraded,

- Fix the quick hitch system,

- Carry out the auto-zero,

- Select the mobile,

- Introduce the mobile into the sample at 45°,

- Fix the mobile and adjust the sample up to the mark,

- Save mobile and speed,

- Let the mobile run for 60 seconds,

- Note the viscosity and the percentage of full scale,

- Stop the rotation of the mobile.

[54] Advantageously, the dispersion of the oily droplets in the gel is homogeneous. The term "homogeneous dispersion" means that the droplets are distributed homogeneously in the gel, without agglomeration, sedimentation, or creaming.

[55] Advantageously, the aqueous gel may also comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a dye, a polyol, a gelling agent (i.e. a polysaccharide, including gums, and/or a carbomer), a preservative, an antimicrobial agent and a hydrophilic active.

[56] By hydrophilic excipient is meant a water-miscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass in water at 25°C , is completely soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when solid, soluble in water, i.e. soluble at least by 0.1 g/L.

[57] Advantageously, the aqueous gel may also comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agent can be a polysaccharide, a carbomer (for example from CAS=9007-20-9/9003-01-4/76050-42-5/9062-04-8) or a polyacrylate, preferably a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide can be chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (eg sodium hyaluronate) and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum (for example of CAS 11138-66-2), gellan gum (for example of CAS 71010-52-1) and their mixture.

[58] Advantageously, the aqueous gel may comprise from 0.01% to 4% by mass of gelling agent, relative to the total mass of the gel.

[59] Advantageously, the aqueous gel may also comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C6 polyol. By polyol is meant a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions. The C3 to C6 polyol can be linear or branched. The polyol is preferably a diol. The polyol can be chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[60] Advantageously, the gel may preferably comprise from 0.01% to 25% by mass of at least one polyol, relative to the total mass of the gel.

[61] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative and/or one antimicrobial agent.

[62] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antioxidant.

[63] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[64] Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising a floral water such as centaurea cyanus flower water (Cornflower floral water).

[65] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% by mass of at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, relative to the total mass of the gel.

[66] Advantageously, the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a make-up remover, an anti-aging care or a moisturizing composition. [67] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% fall within the interval.

[68] In the present invention, all the percentages (%) are given in mass percentage, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet or else relative to the total mass of the biphasic cosmetic composition. In the case of the two-phase cosmetic composition, the percentages can also be given relative to the total mass of the oily phase or of the aqueous phase.

[69] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin. Thus, the term "almost exclusively" means a composition which comprises less than 10% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 2%. Materials of synthetic origin are designated as unavoidable compounds such as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and essential pigments in make-up products. For example, a composition of the make-up remover type can generally comprise less than 10% of products of synthetic origin (i.e. preservatives, perfumes).

For example, a composition of the anti-ageing care type may generally comprise less than 5% of products of synthetic origin. For example, a composition of the moisturizing type can generally comprise less than 5% of products of synthetic origin.

[70] In the context of the invention, the term “product of natural origin” means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: the ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e. found in nature. In the context of the invention, products of natural origin are considered to be products such as than butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable.

[71] Advantageously, the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of origin natural.

[72] An object of the invention is also an anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing composition, comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the frost.

[73] The invention also includes a use of oily droplets according to the invention in a biphasic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel, said cosmetic composition being chosen from an anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing care.

[74] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for, moisturizing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), comprising at least a step consisting in applying to the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body) at least one biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[75] The invention also comprises the use of a biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), the hydration and/or the make-up removal of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body).

[76] Advantageously, the use according to the invention may be a use of the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for removing make-up, protecting and/or nourishing keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or or body).

[77] The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps: a) formation of an aqueous gel at a temperature ranging from 60 to 80° C., with stirring; b) cooling of the gel obtained in step a) to a temperature ranging from 20 to 30° C.; c) formation of an oily phase comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid at a temperature ranging from 25 to 80°C; d) bringing the aqueous gel and the oily phase into contact and stirring the mixture obtained at a temperature comprised within a range ranging from 20 to 30° C. for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, the speed of rotation being comprised within a interval ranging from 15 to 150 rpm, and obtaining the biphasic composition.

[78] The invention is further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

[79] Figure 1 shows a photograph of bottles A, B and C comprising respectively compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) of example 4, after 8 days, at 40°C.

[80] Examples

[81] Density and viscosity measurements were measured using the method described above.

[82] Example 1: biphasic cosmetic compositions 1a to 1h and 2i to 2i comprising oily droplets a to h and i to I

[83] This example presents the preparation of biphasic cosmetic compositions 1a to 1h according to the invention comprising oily droplets a to h according to the invention.

[84] Table 1 presents the composition in mass percentages of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1:

Mass percentages within each phase (aqueous or oily) are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated.

[85] Equipment used: IKA WERKE EURO-ST P CV: mechanical stirrer,

Rayneri: Turbotest benchtop mixer.

[86] Biphasic cosmetic compositions are prepared by following the following steps:

1) Homogenize phase A and heat to 65° C. under a 500 rpm deflocculator;

2 Premix phase B and add to phase A under a deflocculator at 500 rpm;

3) Cool to 25° C. under a 500 rpm deflocculator;

4) Adjust the pH to 4.6-5.1 with a pH adjuster such as sodium hydroxide or citric acid;

5) Premix the PM of phase C with a magnetic bar;

6) Add phase C slowly with low four-blade stirring at 150 rpm to the rest of the formula.

[87] Table 2 presents the composition in mass percentages of the two-phase cosmetic composition 2:

Table 2: biphasic cosmetic compositions 2i/d/k/l. The mass percentages within each phase (aqueous or oily) are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated.

[88] The biphasic cosmetic composition 2 is prepared by following the following steps:

1) Homogenize phase A and heat to 75° C. under a 500 rpm deflocculator;

2) Premix phase B and add to phase A under a deflocculator at 500 rpm;

3) Premix phase C and add to phase AB at 75°C under a 500 rpm deflocculator

4) Premix phase D and add to phase ABC at 75°C under a 500 rpm deflocculator;

5) Cool ABCD to 25°C;

6) Adjust the pH to obtain a pH between 4.5-5 with a pH adjuster such as sodium hydroxide or citric acid;

7) Premix the raw materials of phase E and heat to 75 - 80°C under a magnetic bar;

8) Cool phase E to 30° C.;

9) Add in this phase E the raw materials F, G and H;

8) Add the EFGH phase slowly with low four-blade stirring at 150 rpm to the rest of the ABCD formula.

[89] Example 2: study of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1b

[90] A stability study of the biphasic cosmetic composition 1b is carried out. Stability is studied under 5 different temperature conditions monitored at different occurrences: -20°C up to 2 weeks, 4°C and 25°C up to 1 year, 40°C up to 3 months, 50° C up to 1 month.

[91] Table 3 below summarizes the results obtained during this study. When the composition is mentioned as “compliant”, this means that less than 1% of the oil droplets sediment or rise to the surface (creaming).

Table 3: Organoleptic Controls: measurement of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1 B as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days). Legend: C = compliant, NC = balls rise slightly, B = gel with white oil balls.

[92] We can see that the stability of the formula is consistent with the stability criteria: the composition at 1 year at 25°C and 4°C remains consistent with the results obtained at D1. Table 4: Physicochemical controls: measurement of the viscosity of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1 B as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days).

[93] The change in pH and viscosity of the composition is acceptable over a period of 1 year, at a temperature of 25°C.

[94] Example 3: hydration property of the biphasic cosmetic composition 1B

[95] A hydration test is carried out on 20 volunteers with normal, dry and very dry skin types.

[96] Measurement protocol: a dielectric measurement linked to the hydration state of the stratum corneum is carried out at T0 on 2 zones, one will serve as a control, the other will be treated with the product.

[97] This measurement is again carried out on the 2 zones 30 minutes and 1 hour after application of the product. The evaluation of the effectiveness of the product is done by comparing the measurements before/after and by comparison with an untreated area, each volunteer being his own control.

[98] Apparatus used: Corneometer CM825 (Courage and Khazaka).

[99] Results: Under the conditions of the study, 30 min and 1 hour after application, the product has an excellent immediate moisturizing effect: hydration index increased by 60 to 80% compared to an untreated area.

[100] Example 4: comparative tests

[101] Compositions 1a (according to the invention), 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) (outside the invention) are prepared according to the protocol of example 1 of the patent application.

[102] Table 5 below summarizes the ingredients and proportions involved.

Table 5: Compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter). The mass percentages within each phase (aqueous or oily) are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated. [103] Stability measurement / visual check

[104] The stability of cosmetic compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) is conducted. The stability is studied according to 5 different temperature conditions monitored at different occurrences: 4°C and 25°C, 40°C, 50°C up to 8 days.

[105] Tables 6 to 8 below summarize the results obtained. When the composition is mentioned as “compliant”, this means that less than 1% of the oil droplets sediment or rise to the surface (creaming).

Table 6: Organoleptic Controls composition 1a: measurement of the stability of the biphasic cosmetic composition 1a as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days). Legend: C = compliant, NC = balls rise slightly, B = gel with white oil balls.

Table 7: Organoleptic Controls composition 1a(bis): measurement of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1a(bis) as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days). Legend: C = compliant, NC = balls rise slightly, B = gel with white oil balls.

Table 8: Organoleptic Controls composition 1a(ter): measurement of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1a(ter) as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days). Legend: C = compliant, NC = balls rise slightly, B = gel with white oil balls.

[106] FIG. 1 represents a photograph of vials A, B and C respectively comprising compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) after 8 days, at 40°C.

[107] Only composition 1a according to the invention brings together the stability conditions necessary for effective use of the composition. Compositions 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) do not allow this (NC at T+1 week, at 40°C).

Claims

[Claim 1] An oily droplet comprising:

- from 0.01% to 40% by mass of at least one lipoamino acid, preferably from 20 to 40%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the droplet.

[Claim 2] Droplet according to claim 1 further comprising one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a perfume, a dye, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, a antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic active ingredient.

[Claim 3] Droplet according to the preceding claim, in which the oil of plant origin is chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose , olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy, sunflower, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), triglycerides (i.e. of C8 to C30 alcohols), C10 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof, the droplet preferably comprising from 0.01% to 10% by mass of oil, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[Claim 4] Droplet according to Claim 2 or 3, in which the ester is an ester of a C1 to C6 acid and a C8 to C22 alcohol, preferably selected from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, triglycerides of C8 to C30 alcohols (ie caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof , the droplet preferably comprising from 0.01% to 10% by mass of ester, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[Claim 5] Droplet according to any one of Claims 2 to 4, in which the fatty acid is a C8 to C26 acid, preferably selected from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, the droplet preferably comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of fatty acid, based on the total weight of the droplet.

[Claim 6] Droplet according to any one of Claims 2 to 5, in which the fatty alcohol is a C10 to C22 alcohol, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof, the droplet preferably comprising from 0.01% to 10% by mass of fatty alcohol, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[Claim 7] Droplet according to any one of Claims 2 to 6, in which the pigment is chosen from bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, preferably bismuth oxychloride, the droplet preferably comprising from 0.01% to 10% by mass of pigment, relative to the total mass of the droplet.

[Claim 8] Droplet according to any one of the preceding claims, having an average diameter less than or equal to 3 mm, preferably 1 to 2 mm.

[Claim 9] Biphasic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of droplets according to any one of the preceding claims, the said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, the said composition comprising:

- from 90 to 99.89% of aqueous phase in gel form, preferably from 92 to 99.89% and more preferably from 96 to 99.5%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[Claim 10] Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the aqueous gel may also comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a colorant, a polyol, a gelling agent, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent and a hydrophilic active agent.

[Claim 11] Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the gelling agent is a polysaccharide and is chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (eg sodium hyaluronate) and mixtures thereof, preferably xanthan or gellan gum, the gel preferably comprising from 0.01% to 4% by mass of polysaccharide, relative to the total mass of the gel.

[Claim 12] Composition according to Claim 10 or 11, in which the polyol is preferably a diol and is chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof, the gel preferably comprising from 0.01% to 25% by mass of polyol, relative to the total mass of the gel.

[Claim 13] A composition according to any of claims 9 to 12, further comprising one or more additional cosmetic excipients.

[Claim 14] Process for the manufacture of a biphasic composition according to any one of Claims 9 to 13, comprising the steps: a) forming an aqueous gel at a temperature ranging from 60 to 80°C, with stirring; b) cooling of the gel obtained in step a) to a temperature ranging from 20 to 30° C.; c) formation of an oily phase comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and lauroyl lysine at a temperature ranging from 25 to 80°C; d) bringing the aqueous gel and the oily phase into contact and stirring the mixture obtained at a temperature comprised in a range ranging from 20 to 30° C. for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, the speed of rotation being within a range ranging from 15 to 150 rpm, and obtaining the biphasic composition.

[Claim 15] Use of a droplet or of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 for cosmetic care and/or hygiene, preferably the skin and/or the lips.