EP4366684A1 - Ölige tröpfchen und zweiphasige zusammensetzung mit diesen tröpfchen - Google Patents

Ölige tröpfchen und zweiphasige zusammensetzung mit diesen tröpfchen

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Publication number
EP4366684A1
EP4366684A1 EP22748398.9A EP22748398A EP4366684A1 EP 4366684 A1 EP4366684 A1 EP 4366684A1 EP 22748398 A EP22748398 A EP 22748398A EP 4366684 A1 EP4366684 A1 EP 4366684A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
droplet
gel
mass
phase
oily
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22748398.9A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Marine LAFONT
Claudine GEOFFROY
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA filed Critical Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Publication of EP4366684A1 publication Critical patent/EP4366684A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/044—Suspensions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), more particularly to that of compositions such as anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing compositions.
  • the present invention relates to an oily droplet comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid, as well as to its use in a biphasic cosmetic composition.
  • the invention also includes a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets, said cosmetic composition being chosen from an anti-ageing, moisturizing or makeup-removing composition, as well as the use of biphasic cosmetic composition for cosmetic care and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably lips and/or skin (face and/or body), as well as a cosmetic care process, and/or hygiene of keratin materials, preferably of the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body).
  • the invention comprises a process for manufacturing the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • Two-phase compositions are compositions which have gained importance in recent years, particularly in the field of make-up removers: the interest of these two phases is to allow the make-up to be dissolved with the oily phase and to remove the excess with the aqueous phase.
  • “two-phase” or “two-phase” composition means a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase, comprising oils and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous by stirring. and again return to two separate phases after stopping the stirring.
  • the agitation may be manual agitation carried out by a user.
  • biphasic compositions have numerous advantages such as in particular the absence of surfactants or emulsifiers, which gives them a certain advantage over conventional emulsions. They thus have no superfluous raw materials, and present more naturalness.
  • conventional biphasic compositions do not only have advantages and to this day retain certain constraints of use: the composition must, for example, be stirred before using it, which can harm its effectiveness if it does not is not sufficiently agitated by the user.
  • This type of formulation also requires the choice of very hydrophilic and very lipophilic materials in order to guarantee a clear separation, which limits the choice in terms of raw materials.
  • conventional biphasic compositions have an oily phase which can be very significant.
  • the new oily droplet according to the invention makes it possible to provide, in biphasic cosmetic compositions, an oily phase in a transparent aqueous gel without emulsifier, to not need agitation for the use of said product, to increase its naturalness, but also to allow the incorporation of a perfume without solubilizer while keeping the transparency of the aqueous support (gel), and finally to bring an attractive visual to a classic care product.
  • the invention thus relates to an oily droplet comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid.
  • C8/C10/succinic triglycerides or "caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride” are glycerin esters fatty acids of vegetable origin in C8 and C10 fractionated, associated with natural succinic acid from a non-GMO fermentation.
  • “Lipoamino acid” means a compound resulting from the combination of an amino acid and a fatty acid.
  • the amino acid can be chosen from natural alpha-amino acids.
  • the amino acid can be chosen from proteinogenic amino acids.
  • the amino acid is chosen from alanine, aspartic acid, glycine, glutamic acid, serine, cysteine, arginine, proline, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, isoleucine , phenylalanine, lysine and mixtures thereof.
  • the amino acid is lysine or arginine.
  • the fatty acid can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid can be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, caprylic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, caprylic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise:
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise:
  • the density of the oily droplet according to the invention is approximately 1.00. It is generally 1.00 to 1.02.
  • the relative density of a substance is the mass of a certain volume of this substance over the mass of the same volume of water.
  • the measurement is made using a stainless steel pycnometer, at a temperature of 20 ⁇ 2°C.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention has an average diameter less than or equal to 3 mm, preferably 1 to 2 mm.
  • the diameter of the droplets can be measured under a Leica Si9 binocular loupe in its final packaging. Photos can be acquired using a conventional camera.
  • the cosmetic composition can be deposited either at the bottom of a glass-bottom Petri dish or taken and mounted between slide and coverslip in order to be examined under a DMI6 light microscope. In the latter case, the serum can be observed under different lighting modes such as brightfield, interference and differential contrast or polarized light.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a perfume, a dye, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic active ingredient.
  • lipophilic excipients when it is liquid, we mean a liquid that is immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into the water at 25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, not soluble in water, that is to say when it is introduced at the rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise an oil.
  • the oil can be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the oil is preferably of vegetable origin and/or preferably of natural origin.
  • oil means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at temperature ambient.
  • An oil is a water-immiscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water.
  • An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. “Non-volatile” means an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • volatile an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.
  • the oil can be chosen from the group comprising oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel oils , castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy, sunflower, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C10 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof.
  • oils of plant origin preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel oils , castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan,
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one oil, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise an ester.
  • the ester can be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the ester is preferably of vegetable origin and/or preferably of natural origin.
  • the ester can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable esters, preferably chosen from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, stearate ethylhexyl, isononyl isononanoate, triglycerides of C8 to C30 alcohols (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
  • vegetable esters preferably chosen from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, stearate ethylhexyl, isononyl isononanoate, triglycerides of C8 to C30 alcohols (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one ester, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.
  • the fatty acid can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid can be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one fatty acid, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.
  • the fatty alcohol can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one alcohol, relative to the total mass of the oily droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or dye.
  • the pigment can be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and/or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, nacres and/or optical effect pigments. They can be synthetic or natural.
  • pigment means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, mother-of-pearl, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
  • the mineral (inorganic) pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric, and mixtures thereof).
  • Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.
  • mother-of-pearl means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally has color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluoroflogopithe and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.
  • “dye” means coloring substances that are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
  • the pigment can be chosen from bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide.
  • the pigment is bismuth oxychloride.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% of at least one pigment, preferably from 1 to 5%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% of at least one colorant, preferably from 0.02 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one perfume.
  • perfume is understood to mean a perfuming composition whose primary function consists in modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 30% of at least one fragrance, preferably from 5 to 25%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the term “cosmetic active” means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, maintaining them in good condition or to correct body odor.
  • a cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient which acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit.
  • an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying.
  • the lipophilic cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, chamomile, chamomile, rosemary, calendula.
  • the cosmetic active can be easily selected by the person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorant)
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient, relative to the total mass of the droplet.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may also comprise at least one essential oil.
  • essential oil means an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the plant of origin. We mainly find terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, depending on the original composition.
  • the oily droplet according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 1% of at least one essential oil, preferably from 0.01 to 0.8%, relative to the total mass of the droplet.
  • surfactants emulsifiers/solubilizers
  • the invention also relates to a two-phase cosmetic composition
  • a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being suspended and dispersed in the gel.
  • the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :
  • aqueous phase in gel form preferably from 90 to 99.89% of aqueous phase in gel form, preferably from 92 to 99.89% and even more preferably from 96 to 99.5%, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of composition.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the gel, said composition comprising :
  • a gel is generally understood to be a three-dimensional network of solids diluted in a fluid. This network may be the result of chemical or physical bonds, or of small crystals or other bonds which remain intact in the carrier fluid.
  • the carrier fluid must be a good solvent for the basic molecules which form the network in order to allow swelling, which may be the case of water (hydrogel), oil or liquid. air (aerogel).
  • the gels are mainly composed of the fluid, and therefore have densities close to those of the latter.
  • the gel is an “aqueous gel” or “hydrogel”.
  • aqueous gel or
  • hydrogel a gel whose carrier fluid is water and whose network is formed by a hydrophilic gelling agent, chosen in particular from a polysaccharide or a carbomer.
  • the aqueous phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition is the aqueous gel.
  • the oily phase consists of all the droplets which are dispersed in the aqueous gel.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is called "biphasic", insofar as it differs from an emulsion (which results from the heterogeneous mixture of two normally immiscible liquids, but which mix under the effect of agitation and the addition of emulsifiers) and that it also differs from a "conventional two-phase (or two-phase) cosmetic composition” insofar as the two phases are not superposed.
  • the oily droplets are homogeneously dispersed in the matrix formed by the aqueous gel, and these remain dispersed in the gel at rest, unlike a conventional biphasic composition, which at rest sees the two phases separate again.
  • these are fatty substances (oily droplets) which have been inserted into an aqueous substrate (gel).
  • the pH of the aqueous phase can be within a range ranging from 4.5 to 7.5, preferably 5.
  • the pH can be adjusted with a pH adjuster, such as for example sodium hydroxide ( NaOH), L-arginine, citric acid or even lactic acid.
  • the density of the gel measured under the conditions as defined above, is around 1. It is generally 1.00 to 1.07.
  • the densities of the two phases (aqueous and oily) of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are identical or almost identical (difference less than or equal to 0.05), which allows the oily droplets to be maintained in suspension in the gel, and thus confers on the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention a stability greater than or equal to 3 months at a temperature of 40°C.
  • the composition is considered stable as long as the droplets remain in suspension in the gel: the droplets are distributed homogeneously throughout the gel without any sedimentation or creaming phenomenon being observed.
  • the acceptability threshold is defined at 1% of droplets that sediment or rise to the surface (creaming phenomenon). The composition is considered stable until this threshold is reached.
  • the viscosity of the aqueous phase (gel) of the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention is approximately 2000 to 15000 cps.
  • the viscosity can be measured using a BROOKFIELD AMETEK Model D220 type viscometer, according to the following protocol:
  • the dispersion of the oily droplets in the gel is homogeneous.
  • homogeneous dispersion means that the droplets are distributed homogeneously in the gel, without agglomeration, sedimentation, or creaming.
  • the aqueous gel may also comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a dye, a polyol, a gelling agent (i.e. a polysaccharide, including gums, and/or a carbomer), a preservative, an antimicrobial agent and a hydrophilic active.
  • a gelling agent i.e. a polysaccharide, including gums, and/or a carbomer
  • a preservative i.e. a polysaccharide, including gums, and/or a carbomer
  • an antimicrobial agent i.e. a hydrophilic active.
  • hydrophilic excipient is meant a water-miscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass in water at 25°C , is completely soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when solid, soluble in water, i.e. soluble at least by 0.1 g/L.
  • the aqueous gel may also comprise at least one gelling agent.
  • the polysaccharide can be chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (eg sodium hyaluronate) and mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum (for example of CAS 11138-66-2), gellan gum (for example of CAS 71010-52-1) and their mixture.
  • the aqueous gel may comprise from 0.01% to 4% by mass of gelling agent, relative to the total mass of the gel.
  • the aqueous gel may also comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C6 polyol.
  • polyol is meant a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions.
  • the C3 to C6 polyol can be linear or branched.
  • the polyol is preferably a diol.
  • the polyol can be chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
  • the gel may preferably comprise from 0.01% to 25% by mass of at least one polyol, relative to the total mass of the gel.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative and/or one antimicrobial agent.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antioxidant.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the hydrophilic cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising a floral water such as centaurea cyanus flower water (Cornflower floral water).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% by mass of at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient, relative to the total mass of the gel.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a make-up remover, an anti-aging care or a moisturizing composition.
  • the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% fall within the interval.
  • compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin.
  • the term "almost exclusively” means a composition which comprises less than 10% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 2%.
  • Materials of synthetic origin are designated as unavoidable compounds such as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and essential pigments in make-up products.
  • a composition of the make-up remover type can generally comprise less than 10% of products of synthetic origin (i.e. preservatives, perfumes).
  • a composition of the anti-ageing care type may generally comprise less than 5% of products of synthetic origin.
  • a composition of the moisturizing type can generally comprise less than 5% of products of synthetic origin.
  • the term “product of natural origin” means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: the ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e. found in nature.
  • products of natural origin are considered to be products such as than butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable.
  • the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of origin natural.
  • additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of origin natural.
  • An object of the invention is also an anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing composition, comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel and an oily phase in the form of oily droplets according to the invention, said droplets being in suspension and dispersed in the frost.
  • the invention also includes a use of oily droplets according to the invention in a biphasic composition comprising an aqueous phase in the form of a gel, said cosmetic composition being chosen from an anti-aging, moisturizing or makeup-removing care.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for, moisturizing and/or removing make-up from keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), comprising at least a step consisting in applying to the lips and/or the skin (face and/or body) at least one biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the invention also comprises the use of a biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), the hydration and/or the make-up removal of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body).
  • a biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), the hydration and/or the make-up removal of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or of the skin (face and/or body).
  • the use according to the invention may be a use of the biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for removing make-up, protecting and/or nourishing keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin (face and/or or body).
  • the invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps: a) formation of an aqueous gel at a temperature ranging from 60 to 80° C., with stirring; b) cooling of the gel obtained in step a) to a temperature ranging from 20 to 30° C.; c) formation of an oily phase comprising C8/C10/succinic triglycerides and at least one lipoamino acid at a temperature ranging from 25 to 80°C; d) bringing the aqueous gel and the oily phase into contact and stirring the mixture obtained at a temperature comprised within a range ranging from 20 to 30° C. for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, the speed of rotation being comprised within a interval ranging from 15 to 150 rpm, and obtaining the biphasic composition.
  • Figure 1 shows a photograph of bottles A, B and C comprising respectively compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) of example 4, after 8 days, at 40°C.
  • Example 1 biphasic cosmetic compositions 1a to 1h and 2i to 2i comprising oily droplets a to h and i to I
  • This example presents the preparation of biphasic cosmetic compositions 1a to 1h according to the invention comprising oily droplets a to h according to the invention.
  • Table 1 presents the composition in mass percentages of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1:
  • Mass percentages within each phase are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated.
  • Biphasic cosmetic compositions are prepared by following the following steps:
  • phase A Homogenize phase A and heat to 65° C. under a 500 rpm deflocculator
  • phase B Premix phase B and add to phase A under a deflocculator at 500 rpm;
  • Table 2 presents the composition in mass percentages of the two-phase cosmetic composition 2:
  • Table 2 biphasic cosmetic compositions 2i/d/k/l. The mass percentages within each phase (aqueous or oily) are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated.
  • the biphasic cosmetic composition 2 is prepared by following the following steps:
  • phase A Homogenize phase A and heat to 75° C. under a 500 rpm deflocculator
  • phase B Premix phase B and add to phase A under a deflocculator at 500 rpm;
  • phase C Premix phase C and add to phase AB at 75°C under a 500 rpm deflocculator
  • phase D Premix phase D and add to phase ABC at 75°C under a 500 rpm deflocculator;
  • a stability study of the biphasic cosmetic composition 1b is carried out. Stability is studied under 5 different temperature conditions monitored at different occurrences: -20°C up to 2 weeks, 4°C and 25°C up to 1 year, 40°C up to 3 months, 50° C up to 1 month.
  • Table 3 summarizes the results obtained during this study. When the composition is mentioned as “compliant”, this means that less than 1% of the oil droplets sediment or rise to the surface (creaming).
  • Example 3 hydration property of the biphasic cosmetic composition 1B
  • Measurement protocol a dielectric measurement linked to the hydration state of the stratum corneum is carried out at T0 on 2 zones, one will serve as a control, the other will be treated with the product.
  • compositions 1a (according to the invention), 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) (outside the invention) are prepared according to the protocol of example 1 of the patent application.
  • Table 5 Compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter). The mass percentages within each phase (aqueous or oily) are given relative to the total mass of said phase. The mass percentage of each phase relative to the total mass of the composition is also indicated. [103] Stability measurement / visual check
  • compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) are conducted.
  • the stability is studied according to 5 different temperature conditions monitored at different occurrences: 4°C and 25°C, 40°C, 50°C up to 8 days.
  • Organoleptic Controls composition 1a(bis) measurement of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1a(bis) as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days).
  • C compliant
  • NC balls rise slightly
  • B gel with white oil balls.
  • Organoleptic Controls composition 1a(ter) measurement of the stability of the two-phase cosmetic composition 1a(ter) as a function of temperature (in °C) and time (in days).
  • C compliant
  • NC balls rise slightly
  • B gel with white oil balls.
  • FIG. 1 represents a photograph of vials A, B and C respectively comprising compositions 1a, 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) after 8 days, at 40°C.
  • composition 1a brings together the stability conditions necessary for effective use of the composition.
  • Compositions 1a(bis) and 1a(ter) do not allow this (NC at T+1 week, at 40°C).

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP22748398.9A 2021-07-05 2022-06-30 Ölige tröpfchen und zweiphasige zusammensetzung mit diesen tröpfchen Pending EP4366684A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2107267A FR3124697A1 (fr) 2021-07-05 2021-07-05 Gouttelettes huileuses et composition biphasique comprenant lesdites gouttelettes
PCT/FR2022/051313 WO2023281188A1 (fr) 2021-07-05 2022-06-30 Gouttelettes huileuses et composition biphasique comprenant lesdites gouttelettes

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EP4366684A1 true EP4366684A1 (de) 2024-05-15

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CN115944581A (zh) * 2023-02-01 2023-04-11 欧诗漫生物股份有限公司 一种玫瑰细胞液及其制备方法与应用

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