Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/042—Gels
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
  • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
  • B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
  • B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
  • B01J13/0052—Preparation of gels
  • B01J13/0056—Preparation of gels containing inorganic material and water
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
  • B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
  • B01J13/00—Colloid chemistry, e.g. the production of colloidal materials or their solutions, not otherwise provided for; Making microcapsules or microballoons
  • B01J13/0052—Preparation of gels
  • B01J13/0065—Preparation of gels containing an organic phase
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
  • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
  • C09K23/017—Mixtures of compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of the necessities of life and more particularly to the field of cosmetics, to the field of hygiene and to the field of dermo-pharmacy.
• compositions intended for skin care and the particularity of which is to form a gel or to produce an emulsion with or without the use of a complementary surfactant.
• aqueous, fluid or gelled compositions intended to be applied to the skin, mucous membranes or the integuments, characterized in that they contain, as active principle, a gelling and / or thickening agent, formed of a combination of three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids or lecithins of plant origin, and a polyglyceryl acylate, in combination or in mixture with excipients or vehicles more particularly suitable for cosmetic use.
• a gelling and / or thickening agent formed of a combination of three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids or lecithins of plant origin, and a polyglyceryl acylate, in combination or in mixture with excipients or vehicles more particularly suitable for cosmetic use.
• compositions according to the invention have significant advantages over those already produced according to the prior art which contain, as gelling agent, cellulose derivatives or vegetable gums. Indeed, these new compositions have on the one hand a soft and pleasant touch and on the other hand, do not show any risk of deterioration. This results in the fact that they do not exhibit a tendency to recrystallize the active chemical substances which they contain, in particular in the event of a temperature variation or when the formulations contain poorly soluble active principles, which tend to recrystallize. This stability is notably demonstrated by the study of the viscosity as a function of parameters such as the operating mode, the pH, the alcohol, the electrolytes, the raw materials, and presented in examples V and VI).
• compositions incorporating the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention have in particular the advantage of being perfectly stable over a wide temperature range and of being able to be stored without risk of recrystallization or surface drying, if the containers are kept open or partially filled.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention can constitute an emulsifying agent since it makes it possible to produce emulsions cold or hot, without an emulsifier of the additional surfactant type, and without the need for use a calculation the coefficient of Hydrophilic Balance / pophile J (HLB).
• the emulsifying agent according to the invention can be added to the fatty phase before carrying out the emulsifying phase by adding an aqueous vehicle.
• Example IV thus shows that it is possible to emulsify up to 40% of oil in a composition according to the invention containing 3% by weight of gelling and / or thickening agent.
• the agent according to the invention can constitute a thickening and stabilizing agent since it can be added hot to an oil-in-water emulsion and thus makes it possible to thicken and stabilize it, in particular during the cooling.
• This capacity was notably demonstrated in the study of the influence of the temperature of the formulation process on the viscosity of the solution and presented in example VI) B).
• the agent according to the invention can also constitute a good gelling agent. It also gives remarkable properties to the compositions which incorporate it.
• the results of which are presented in Example III have demonstrated that such a gelling and / or thickening agent generates, on application of the fluid or gelled composition, a freshness effect much greater than that observed with usual gelling agents. An increase of around 9.4% was indeed observed.
• the sticky effect which is a disadvantage often observed with the usual gelling agents is here attenuated very remarkably, by almost 17.5%.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention retains its properties over a wide pH range, which can vary from 2 to 12, and is compatible with ethanol up to a maximum percentage of 40% by total weight of the composition.
• it offers good resistance to electrolytes such as salts in general, but also to certain substances which are particularly difficult to formulate, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate used as depigmenting active agent and often incompatible with many common gelling agents.
• This stability was the subject of a study presented in particular in Examples V and VI. The compositions which incorporate this gelling and / or thickening agent are thus particularly well stabilized.
• this gelling and / or thickening agent a particularly interesting compound for the formulation of cosmetic, pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological compositions or also for other industrial purposes (detergent, stationery, building, construction, petrochemistry) .
• the important element of the invention lies in the use of a gelling and / or thickening agent which, according to the invention, is based on phospholipids or lecithins, of plant origin. These indeed contribute significantly to the excellence of the properties of the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention.
• the phospholipids of plant origin and the lecithins are in particular those extracted from soybean oil, rice oil or sunflower oil.
• the preferred phospholipids according to the invention are those derived from sunflower oil. Those extracted from soybeans, rapeseed, rice, oats are also compatible with the invention.
• Phospholipids in particular those extracted from sunflower, are known substances which are already on the market. It is most often a transparent liquid, amber-brown in color that spreads like a thin clear film. It is a standardized product with constant viscosity. This product does not contain any raw materials from soy or wheat. Consequently, it is not subject to any regulations concerning genetically modified organisms, in accordance with EEC regulations 49/2000 and 50/2000.
• sunflower phospholipids have already been described in food and in particular in the manufacture of chocolate paste, (Russian patent 2058743 in the name of Krasd Poly) as improving the quality and reducing the viscosity of the mixture of ingredients. These phospholipids also reduce the tendency to crystallize fat and prevent it from becoming rancid.
• Sunflower phospholipids also have the advantage of not degrading during storage and keep their properties intact above 15 ° C, without however the temperature exceeding 60 ° C.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the present invention is formed from the combination of at least three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids or lecithins original vegetable, and a polyglyceryl acylate, optionally in combination or in admixture with excipients or vehicles suitable for cosmetic or dermatological use.
• phospholipid is meant according to the invention glycerides containing a residue of orthophosphoric acid, linked by an ester function.
• lecithin is meant according to the invention a mixture of at least 60% of phospholipids in oil, in particular sunflower oil or sunflower triglycerides.
• the acrylic copolymer may in particular be a sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
• This copolymer which is particularly advantageous according to the invention, is marketed in a diluted form called Flocare DP / ET36 LM (Company SNF SA) which constitutes a liquid dispersion of the polymer at 60% by weight in 40% hydrogenated polydecene and in a trideceth -6 to 10%.
• This product is described in particular in patent WO01 / 97772 in the name of SNF SA.
• the polyacrylamide and ammonium acrylate copolymer and the anionic acrylic copolymer are commercial products.
• the polyglyceryl acylate is preferably a stearate, a distearate, a palmitate or a polyglyceryl linoleate.
• the polyglyceryl acylate will be a polyglyceryl acylate. 10.
• Polyglyceryl acylate, in particular polyglyceryl stearate and in particular polyglyceryl stearate, is a known and already marketed product.
• the respective proportions of each of the constituents may vary within the following broad limits, expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the agent:
• polyglyceryl acylate from 5 to 40% of polyglyceryl acylate and preferably from 10% to 30%
• the preferred gelling and / or thickening agent contains equal amounts of copolymers, phospholipids of plant origin, and mixed polyglyceryl acylate.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent may also consist of only these three components, thus completing the agent to 100% by weight.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent can be incorporated directly into the compositions. It can also be combined with a physical combination containing diluted pure oil or a polydiene or an isononyl ester. Preferably, it will be associated with a polymer carrier such as a hydrogenated polyisobutene.
• a subject of the invention is therefore also the gelling and / or thickening agent formed from three constituents: polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids of plant origin and associated glyceryl acylate in a physical combination containing pure oil or a polydiene or an isononyl ester.
• the polymer can thus be in diluted form, in particular in polydiene and in this case, an amount varying from 50 to 80% of copolymer in diluted form will be used, said diluted form containing from 40 to 60% of active ingredient of copolymer. .
• the phospholipids can be in the form of lecithins and in this case, an amount of lecithin will be used varying from 10% to 40% of the total weight of the agent.
• the lecithins according to the invention containing a maximum of 40% of oil in the form of triglycerides, the gelling and / or thickening agent will contain an oil concentration, in particular sunflower oil, of less than 16% by weight agent's total.
• the present invention makes available a new type of gelling and / or thickening agent in the form of powder or gel, formed from substances devoid of toxicity.
• the agent in particular when it contains exclusively a polymer, phospholipids in oil and glyceryl acylate, can be in solid form, and it is then possible, by spraying, to reduce it to powder.
• the agent according to the invention will preferably be used in gelled form. It is then presented in the form of a fluid gel of orange color, usable in a wide pH range from 2 to 12, preferably from 4 to 8, preferably at an optimum pH of 5 to 7.
• the viscosity in the water of a suspension at 2% of the agent according to the invention is then of the order of 75,000 cps, determined with a R eoviscosimeter LGV6.
• the viscosity of an aqueous gel of 1 to 5% is between approximately 9 OOOcPs and 400 OOOcPs.
• a study whose results are presented in Example VI) A) has shown that the gelling power of the agent according to the invention can be observed very clearly from the concentration of 0.5% and is very important from 3%.
• a subject of the invention is also, in fact, fluid or gelled aqueous compositions characterized in that they contain, as active principle, at least one gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention, in combination or in mixture with excipients or vehicles suitable for use, in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.
• the fluid or gelled compositions according to the invention generally contain a concentration varying from 0.05% to 10% and preferably from 0.2 to 4% of gelling and / or thickening agent previously defined by total weight of the composition.
• the gelled compositions according to the invention in particular contain a concentration varying from 0.10 to 10% of the gelling and / or thickening agent and preferably from 0.2 to 5%.
• the most advantageous composition contains from 0.5 to 5% of agent and preferably from 0.5 to 3%.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention can, in addition, serve as emulsifiers or vectors for a large number of cosmetic preparations.
• a composition containing 3% by weight of the gelling and / or thickening agent (Example III) has thus made it possible to emulsify up to 40% of oil.
• the addition of the gel according to the invention at a dose varying from 0.20 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 7.5%, and very advantageously from 0.2 to 4 % in the fatty phase until complete dispersion in cold or hot, thus makes it possible to prepare fluid or viscous emulsions, of perfect stability.
• compositions according to the invention in particular those which are gelled, can contain a very variable proportion of water which makes it possible to adjust the viscosity of the preparation. It generally ranges between 5 and 90% by weight and in particular between 20 and 70%. Such a content gives the gel a fine texture and a refreshing feeling. As a result, the application of the gels according to the invention gives an impression of freshness which owes nothing to the evaporation of a solvent or to the volatilization of a product with a high vapor pressure.
• preferably 30 to 70% water will be used for the production of the O / W type emulsion according to the invention.
• compositions according to the invention will be used in the form of an emulsion, and in particular an oil in water emulsion.
• emulsion will be understood to mean a conventional dispersion.
• the particle size study presented in Example 7 has shown that, in emulsions according to the invention of the oil-in-water type, produced at 1000 and 3000 revolutions per minute, the average particle size is mainly between 1 ⁇ m and 20 ⁇ m , or even between 1 ⁇ m and 11 ⁇ m.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent has the surprising advantage of being able to be incorporated both in the fatty phase and in the aqueous phase in order to produce an emulsion of the type oil-in-water or water-in-oil.
• compositions according to the invention may contain only the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention.
• the compositions according to the invention can, in addition, incorporate one or more active principles or ingredients, in particular those chosen from antibacterial agents, viscosity agents, plasticizers, hydrating agents, phytoestrogens, acids amino, ⁇ -hydroxylated acids, silicones, fatty acid derivatives, texture products, self-tanning agents, organic or mineral sunscreens, pigmentation agents, depigmenting agents, sea water , antioxidants, vitamins, slimming agents.
• ceramides or pseudo-ceramides triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, plasmalogens, other lipids such as those extracted from gluten, tri- saccharides, neutral lipids, glycolipids and other phospholipids.
• flavoring or perfuming agents dyes, mineral pigments, such as iron oxides, fillers, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin (lanolin , suint), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fluorinated oils (perfluorinated polyethers, perfluorodecaline), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol) waxes (carnauba wax, montana wax, ozokerite, wax Périlla), other lipophilic gelling agents, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobized silica, polyethylenes, mica or other substances used in cosmetics.
• oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin (lanolin , suint), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fluorinated oils (perfluorinated polyethers, perfluorodecaline), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol
• organic and / or mineral physical filters such as, for example, micronized particles of metal oxide, in particular of titanium, iron, cerium oxides. , aluminum, particles of metallic silicates, organic compounds such as tetramethyl butyl phenol bis-benzotriazolyl (MBBT marketed by Ciba).
• MBT tetramethyl butyl phenol bis-benzotriazolyl
• compositions according to the invention can also incorporate active ingredients for preparations of the anti-aging cream, anti-wrinkle cream type, as foundations, as cream for the hygiene of infants, for lipstick preparations, softening agents, such as esters of jojoba oil, other thickening agents such as Lanette wax, softening agents such as hazelnut oil or avocado oil, moisturizing agents such as Jojoba extract.
• softening agents such as esters of jojoba oil
• other thickening agents such as Lanette wax
• softening agents such as hazelnut oil or avocado oil
• moisturizing agents such as Jojoba extract.
• One can also incorporate into the gels an agent which lightens the complexion and / or attenuates the visible effect of wrinkles such as the product based on calcium borosilicate and aluminum marketed under the name LUXIL (lightening effect known as "soft-focus ").
• the gels according to the invention are suitable for the production of cosmetic creams, in particular with hydrating, anti-wrinkle, slimming power, with anti-irritant power, for the production of products for ocular or palpebral use which are perfectly tolerated, dermal creams with a very good skin tolerance and with a creamy feel, very fresh and very emollient, baby creams, creams for treating diaper rash, lipsticks in the form of sticks, sticks or a fluid preparation to be applied to brush.
• the same preparations can also be presented in the form of aerosols, milks or lotions.
• opalescent agents or agents with a pearly appearance or a glittery appearance in particular in oil-in-water emulsions for skin care, for carrying out sun protection care, make-up or, on the contrary, for make-up removing creams. .
• a subject of the present invention is therefore the use of the predefined gelling and / or thickening agent as a gelling agent, and / or as a thickening agent, or as an emulsifying agent, or as a stabilizing agent, or as a touch-improving agent and in particular the feeling of freshness to the touch in compositions of an industrial nature, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological, more specifically intended to be applied to the skin, the integuments and the mucous membranes of humans or animals.
• the subject of the invention is also a process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion, consisting in incorporating into the fatty phase the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention preferably in the form of a gel, and in adding that -ci of an aqueous phase.
• compositions according to the invention have no local toxicity or intolerance. They are also not allergenic.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention is used in the form of a gel of particularly advantageous composition, in accordance with the present invention and called Lucagel.
• the Lucagel agent is made up of approximately:
• the complex gelling product called Lucagel disperses in water with simple stirring, without prior swelling and without requiring the addition of a neutralizing agent.
• the viscosity of the aqueous gel containing from 1 to 3% of active principle ranges from 14,000 to 100,000 cps.
• the pH of such a gelled product ranges from 5.5 to 8.5.
• the gel is sensitive to electrolytes from a concentration of 0.25%. It is compatible with ethanol up to a concentration of 30%.
• gels containing 2 to 3% of Lucagel are produced which are dispersed in an aqueous phase or in an oily phase.
• the gelling agent can also be introduced after emulsification as part of an emulsion stabilization. Dispersion can be carried out cold or hot without difficulty.
• Mpde . Qperative . 1; 2 to 3% of Lucagel is dispersed in the lipid phase of an oil-in-water emulsion, as well as mineral and vegetable oils, esters of silicone fatty acids, chemical derivatives of cholesterol. Mixtures of lipid products can also be used. They are incorporated cold or hot in the fatty phase. The emulsion is then produced by adding an aqueous phase, until complete dispersion, with or without the addition of additional surfactant or by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with stirring.
• MP . of . operative . __ 2. 1 to 3% of Lucagel is dispersed in the cold or hot aqueous phase. The emulsion is then produced by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase or vice versa with stirring.
• An oil-in-water emulsion is produced by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily solution formed of paraffin oil added with cottonseed oil and sweet almond oil. The emulsion is heated to 30 ° C. During cooling, the agent is then added in the form of a pure gel according to the invention.
• a flower essence or a flavoring product such as irone, ionones, cinnamic aldehyde or phenylacetic acid into the emulsion.
• the confidence interval for each mean is calculated (CI) according to the formula:
• FIG. 1 translates these results in graphical form and represents the maximum percentage of emulsifiable oil as a function of the percentage of gelling and / or thickening agent by weight of the composition.
• the gelling and / or thickening agent thus exhibits remarkable emulsifying properties, and this at low concentrations. At concentrations of the order of 3 to 5%, it in fact makes it possible to emulsify up to 40% of the weight of the oil composition.
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight
• the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention is thus compatible with many of the conventional components in cosmetics, such as in particular silicones, extracts of Prunus (sweet almonds), DHA 5%.
• EXAMPLE VI Influence of different parameters on the viscosity of the composition according to the invention.
• FIG. 2 represents the viscosity (in cPs) as a function of the concentration of gelling and / or thickening agent.
• the gelling power of the agent according to the invention is observable from the concentration of 0.5%. From 3%, the gelling effect is particularly strong.
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight
• compositions are produced according to the methods usually used to produce emulsions, phase inversions, and gels in water.
• the viscosity measurements are as follows:
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.5%) by weight + paraben esters
• FIG. 3 represents the viscosity as a function of the concentration of sodium chloride. It is thus observed that the gelling power is relatively constant for salt concentrations of less than about 0.4%. Beyond that, the gelling effect, although still present, is considerably weakened.
• the viscosity is kept high for concentrations between 0 and 0.2% NaCl. This is particularly observable at the NaCl concentration of approximately 0.1%.
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight + paraben esters
• Gelling agent 3% by weight
• Figure 4 shows the viscosity as a function of the alcohol concentration. It is observed that the viscosity is not altered by alcohol concentrations up to 5% by weight of the concentration. The gelling power, although reduced, is still important for concentrations of the order of 10% to 20%. Above 20%, the gelling power decreases linearly, disappearing at around 40%. It is therefore the alcohol limit dose.
• the viscosity of a solution is initially measured at a pH of 5.68 and adjusted to different pH:
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight + paraben esters
• Citric acid is used as the acidic adjusting agent and sodium hydroxide as the basic adjusting agent.
• Figure 5 shows the variations in viscosity as a function of pH. It is observed that the viscosity is relatively constant in a pH range from 2 to 12, and remains greater than 30 OOOcPs for a gelling agent concentration of 3%. It is noted, in particular, that between the pH values of approximately 4.08 and 7.42, the gelling effect is almost not diminished.
• composition tested contains as a percentage of the total weight:
• compositions were produced by shearing: one at 1000 rpm, the other at 3000 rpm.
• the particle size was measured according to the usual cold and deflocculating methods. The following results were obtained during these two tests:
• Opacifier 680 *** sodium styrene / acrylates copolymer (Morton) 0.80 B Amisol Trio ** l phospholipids 4.00
• Vitamin E tocopherol 0.80
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.
• Phase B is introduced into phase A and this mixture is stirred until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.
• phases C, D, E and F are added successively without ceasing to agitate.
• Soybean soy isoflavones Glycine soy
• sterols Acatris
• Herbasol Green tea Camellia sinensis extract (Cosmetochem) 1.00
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.
• Phase A is emulsified in phase B with stirring.
• Lucagel is used as a stabilizer for another emulsifier.
• Nipanox BHT BHT (Clariant) 0.05
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.
• Phase B is incorporated into phase A with stirring. Agitation for 15 to 20 minutes is then necessary to hydrate the phospholipids. 3. The mixture is homogenized at 5,000 rpm (Silverson or Ultra Turrax device) for 5 minutes.
• Phases C and D are introduced into this mixture with stirring and the product thus formed is well mixed until homogenization.
• the whole is homogenized at 1,500 rpm for 1 minute to avoid recrystallization during a long storage period.
• Anti-aging hydrating and softening lotion Anti-aging hydrating and softening lotion.
• This composition has an acidic pH.
• Cetiol SB45 Butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 2.00 Vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.10
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 60 ° C.
• Phase A is incorporated into phase B with stirring. The whole is mixed until the cream is thick and homogeneous.
• Phase E is then introduced and the whole homogenized.
• phase F is introduced and the whole is mixed until a homogeneous product is obtained.
• This cream is particularly rich in mineral salts.
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 60 ° C.
• Phase A is incorporated into phase B with stirring. The whole is mixed until the cream is thick and homogeneous.
• phases C and D are introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization.
• This composition is used cold.
• the product is mixed until the cream is thick and homogeneous.
• This composition is a cream containing particles and at an acid pH. It is particularly well suited for exfoliation.
• Salicylic Acid Salicylic Acid (Saci -CFPA) 1.00 phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)
• the two phases A and B are heated to around 70 ° C.
• Phase A is incorporated into phase B, with moderate stirring. Agitation is gradually increased to allow good homogenization
• Phase C is introduced.
• Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)
• the two phases A and C are heated to around 70-75 ° C.
• Phase B is incorporated into phase A.
• Phase C is then introduced.
• the mixture is left under gentle stirring for 15 to 20 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids.
• the mixture is then homogenized by vigorous stirring at 2000 rpm (device Silverson or ultra Turrax) for 1 minute.
• Phase F is introduced and the mixture obtained is stirred until a homogeneous product is obtained.
• Phase G is then introduced and the mixture is left to cool.
• phase H is introduced.
• This composition has a basic pH and contains electrolytes (MAP). Lucagel is also coupled with another emulsifier
• Butylene glycol Butylene Glycol (Interchimie) 2.00 Satiaxane CX91 xanthan gum (Laserson) 0.20 Citrate Na sodium citrate (Lambert Rivière) 0.30 Triethanolamine (Laserson) qs pH 8
• soybean sterols (soy glycine) (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
• Nipanox BHT BHT (Clariant) 0.05
• the two phases A and C are heated to around 70-75 ° C.
• Phase B is incorporated into phase A with gentle stirring. The mixture is kept under gentle stirring for 15 to 20 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids.
• phase D is introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization. 5. The product is left to cool, with gentle stirring. 6. At 40 ° C (when the viscosity decreases), phase D is added and the whole is mixed until homogenization.
• This gel is a slimming agent with caffeine (Isocell slim) and sodium salts (sodium salicylate)
• Phases A, B and C are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.
• Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring. Agitation is increased until a thick and homogeneous product is obtained.
• Phase C is added with gentle stirring. Stirring is continued until a homogeneous product is obtained.
• Phases D and E are introduced and the whole is kept under stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• Percentage composition INCI Ingredient (Suppliers) base in% i. Demineralized water qs 100%
• Phases A, B and C are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.
• Phase B is introduced into phase A with stirring.
• Phase C is added with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• Phases A and B are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.
• Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring.
• Phase C is added with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• phases D and E are introduced and the mixture is homogenized.
• Phases A and B are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.
• Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• phases C and D are introduced and the mixture is homogenized.
• Sun care gel-cream This composition is a physical and chemical sun care
• Dermosoft octiol Caprylyl glycol (DR Straetmans / LMC) 0.50 EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.10 B Dub Inin isononyl isonoanoate (Dubois) 10.00 Granlux GAI-45 Titanium dioxide, isononyle 10.00 isononanoate, Polyglyceryl 4 isostearate, cetym PEG / PPG 10/1, Dimethicone, hexyl laurate, aluminum stearate
• Phase A is heated to around 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.
• phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

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