EP1553914A2

EP1553914A2 - Novel cosmetic formulations based on a gel-forming and/or thickening agent and applications of same

Info

Publication number: EP1553914A2
Application number: EP03775463A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jean-Pierre Arnaud; Agnès LE FUR; Danh Le Hung
Original assignee: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics SAS
Current assignee: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics SAS
Priority date: 2002-10-02
Filing date: 2003-10-02
Publication date: 2005-07-20
Also published as: AU2003283489A1; FR2845287B1; FR2845287A1; WO2004030605A3; AU2003283489A8; WO2004030605A2; US20060153792A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of essential goods and, in particular, the field of cosmetics, hygiene and dermopharmaceutics. More specifically, the invention relates to aqueous, fluid or gel cosmetic compositions which are intended to be applied to the skin, mucous membranes or teguments. The inventive compositions are characterised in that they contain, by way of an active principle, a gel-forming and/or thickening agent which is formed by a combination of three components, namely: (i) an ammonium acrylate and polyacrylamide copolymer and/or an anionic acrylic copolymer, (ii) lecithins or phospholipids of plant origin and (iii) a polyglyceryl acylate, together with or mixed with excipients suitable for topical use. Said compositions can comprise other active principles suitable for use in cosmetics. The invention also relates to the use of the inventive compositions in cosmetics or dermopharmaceutics for the production of emulsions, gels or creams which are perfectly stable.

Description

NEW COSMETIC FORMULATIONS BASED ON A GELLING AND / OR THICKENING AGENT AND THEIR APPLICATIONS.

The present invention relates to the field of the necessities of life and more particularly to the field of cosmetics, to the field of hygiene and to the field of dermo-pharmacy.

More specifically, it relates to new compositions intended for skin care and the particularity of which is to form a gel or to produce an emulsion with or without the use of a complementary surfactant.

More specifically, it relates to aqueous, fluid or gelled compositions, intended to be applied to the skin, mucous membranes or the integuments, characterized in that they contain, as active principle, a gelling and / or thickening agent, formed of a combination of three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids or lecithins of plant origin, and a polyglyceryl acylate, in combination or in mixture with excipients or vehicles more particularly suitable for cosmetic use.

The compositions according to the invention have significant advantages over those already produced according to the prior art which contain, as gelling agent, cellulose derivatives or vegetable gums. Indeed, these new compositions have on the one hand a soft and pleasant touch and on the other hand, do not show any risk of deterioration. This results in the fact that they do not exhibit a tendency to recrystallize the active chemical substances which they contain, in particular in the event of a temperature variation or when the formulations contain poorly soluble active principles, which tend to recrystallize. This stability is notably demonstrated by the study of the viscosity as a function of parameters such as the operating mode, the pH, the alcohol, the electrolytes, the raw materials, and presented in examples V and VI).

The compositions incorporating the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention have in particular the advantage of being perfectly stable over a wide temperature range and of being able to be stored without risk of recrystallization or surface drying, if the containers are kept open or partially filled.

In addition, the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention can constitute an emulsifying agent since it makes it possible to produce emulsions cold or hot, without an emulsifier of the additional surfactant type, and without the need for use a calculation the coefficient of Hydrophilic Balance / pophile J (HLB). Thus, in a particularly surprising manner, the emulsifying agent according to the invention can be added to the fatty phase before carrying out the emulsifying phase by adding an aqueous vehicle. Example IV thus shows that it is possible to emulsify up to 40% of oil in a composition according to the invention containing 3% by weight of gelling and / or thickening agent.

Furthermore, the agent according to the invention can constitute a thickening and stabilizing agent since it can be added hot to an oil-in-water emulsion and thus makes it possible to thicken and stabilize it, in particular during the cooling. This capacity was notably demonstrated in the study of the influence of the temperature of the formulation process on the viscosity of the solution and presented in example VI) B).

The agent according to the invention can also constitute a good gelling agent. It also gives remarkable properties to the compositions which incorporate it. Experiments, the results of which are presented in Example III, have demonstrated that such a gelling and / or thickening agent generates, on application of the fluid or gelled composition, a freshness effect much greater than that observed with usual gelling agents. An increase of around 9.4% was indeed observed. In addition, the sticky effect, which is a disadvantage often observed with the usual gelling agents is here attenuated very remarkably, by almost 17.5%.

The gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention retains its properties over a wide pH range, which can vary from 2 to 12, and is compatible with ethanol up to a maximum percentage of 40% by total weight of the composition. In addition, it offers good resistance to electrolytes such as salts in general, but also to certain substances which are particularly difficult to formulate, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate used as depigmenting active agent and often incompatible with many common gelling agents. This stability was the subject of a study presented in particular in Examples V and VI. The compositions which incorporate this gelling and / or thickening agent are thus particularly well stabilized.

All these remarkable properties thus make this gelling and / or thickening agent, a particularly interesting compound for the formulation of cosmetic, pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological compositions or also for other industrial purposes (detergent, stationery, building, construction, petrochemistry) . The important element of the invention lies in the use of a gelling and / or thickening agent which, according to the invention, is based on phospholipids or lecithins, of plant origin. These indeed contribute significantly to the excellence of the properties of the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention.

According to the invention, the phospholipids of plant origin and the lecithins are in particular those extracted from soybean oil, rice oil or sunflower oil. We can also use phospholipids from other oil plants or oils such as rapeseed, poppy, corn, babassu, thistle oil, white Limnanthes oil (meadow grass), cottonseed oil or wheat germ oil. The preferred phospholipids according to the invention are those derived from sunflower oil. Those extracted from soybeans, rapeseed, rice, oats are also compatible with the invention.

Phospholipids, in particular those extracted from sunflower, are known substances which are already on the market. It is most often a transparent liquid, amber-brown in color that spreads like a thin clear film. It is a standardized product with constant viscosity. This product does not contain any raw materials from soy or wheat. Consequently, it is not subject to any regulations concerning genetically modified organisms, in accordance with EEC regulations 49/2000 and 50/2000.

The addition of these sunflower phospholipids has already been described in food and in particular in the manufacture of chocolate paste, (Russian patent 2058743 in the name of Krasd Poly) as improving the quality and reducing the viscosity of the mixture of ingredients. These phospholipids also reduce the tendency to crystallize fat and prevent it from becoming rancid.

It has also been noted that the addition of water to a gel significantly increases its viscosity, but on the contrary that the addition of sunflower phospholipids significantly reduces this drawback.

Sunflower phospholipids also have the advantage of not degrading during storage and keep their properties intact above 15 ° C, without however the temperature exceeding 60 ° C.

The gelling and / or thickening agent according to the present invention is formed from the combination of at least three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids or lecithins original vegetable, and a polyglyceryl acylate, optionally in combination or in admixture with excipients or vehicles suitable for cosmetic or dermatological use.

By the term "phospholipid" is meant according to the invention glycerides containing a residue of orthophosphoric acid, linked by an ester function.

By the term "lecithin" is meant according to the invention a mixture of at least 60% of phospholipids in oil, in particular sunflower oil or sunflower triglycerides.

According to the invention, the acrylic copolymer may in particular be a sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer. This copolymer, which is particularly advantageous according to the invention, is marketed in a diluted form called Flocare DP / ET36 LM (Company SNF SA) which constitutes a liquid dispersion of the polymer at 60% by weight in 40% hydrogenated polydecene and in a trideceth -6 to 10%. This product is described in particular in patent WO01 / 97772 in the name of SNF SA.

The polyacrylamide and ammonium acrylate copolymer and the anionic acrylic copolymer are commercial products.

According to the invention, the polyglyceryl acylate is preferably a stearate, a distearate, a palmitate or a polyglyceryl linoleate. Preferably, the polyglyceryl acylate will be a polyglyceryl acylate. 10. Polyglyceryl acylate, in particular polyglyceryl stearate and in particular polyglyceryl stearate, is a known and already marketed product.

In the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention, the respective proportions of each of the constituents may vary within the following broad limits, expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the agent:

- from 20 to 50% of copolymer and preferably from 30% to 50% - from 6 to 40% of phospholipids and preferably from 20% to 30%

- from 5 to 40% of polyglyceryl acylate and preferably from 10% to 30%

For convenience, the preferred gelling and / or thickening agent contains equal amounts of copolymers, phospholipids of plant origin, and mixed polyglyceryl acylate. The gelling and / or thickening agent may also consist of only these three components, thus completing the agent to 100% by weight. In this form, the gelling and / or thickening agent can be incorporated directly into the compositions. It can also be combined with a physical combination containing diluted pure oil or a polydiene or an isononyl ester. Preferably, it will be associated with a polymer carrier such as a hydrogenated polyisobutene.

A subject of the invention is therefore also the gelling and / or thickening agent formed from three constituents: polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids of plant origin and associated glyceryl acylate in a physical combination containing pure oil or a polydiene or an isononyl ester.

It should be noted that the concentrations are given as a percentage of active ingredient.

The polymer can thus be in diluted form, in particular in polydiene and in this case, an amount varying from 50 to 80% of copolymer in diluted form will be used, said diluted form containing from 40 to 60% of active ingredient of copolymer. .

The phospholipids can be in the form of lecithins and in this case, an amount of lecithin will be used varying from 10% to 40% of the total weight of the agent. In this case, the lecithins according to the invention containing a maximum of 40% of oil in the form of triglycerides, the gelling and / or thickening agent will contain an oil concentration, in particular sunflower oil, of less than 16% by weight agent's total.

The present invention makes available a new type of gelling and / or thickening agent in the form of powder or gel, formed from substances devoid of toxicity. The agent, in particular when it contains exclusively a polymer, phospholipids in oil and glyceryl acylate, can be in solid form, and it is then possible, by spraying, to reduce it to powder.

However, for better handling and homogenization, the agent according to the invention will preferably be used in gelled form. It is then presented in the form of a fluid gel of orange color, usable in a wide pH range from 2 to 12, preferably from 4 to 8, preferably at an optimum pH of 5 to 7. The viscosity in the water of a suspension at 2% of the agent according to the invention is then of the order of 75,000 cps, determined with a R eoviscosimeter LGV6. The viscosity of an aqueous gel of 1 to 5% is between approximately 9 OOOcPs and 400 OOOcPs. A study whose results are presented in Example VI) A) has shown that the gelling power of the agent according to the invention can be observed very clearly from the concentration of 0.5% and is very important from 3%.

A subject of the invention is also, in fact, fluid or gelled aqueous compositions characterized in that they contain, as active principle, at least one gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention, in combination or in mixture with excipients or vehicles suitable for use, in particular cosmetic or dermatological use.

The fluid or gelled compositions according to the invention generally contain a concentration varying from 0.05% to 10% and preferably from 0.2 to 4% of gelling and / or thickening agent previously defined by total weight of the composition.

It has in fact been found that it is possible, with this gelling and / or thickening agent, to produce cosmetic compositions in the form of gels which can incorporate one or more active ingredients or principles. The gelled compositions according to the invention in particular contain a concentration varying from 0.10 to 10% of the gelling and / or thickening agent and preferably from 0.2 to 5%. Preferably the most advantageous composition contains from 0.5 to 5% of agent and preferably from 0.5 to 3%.

The gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention can, in addition, serve as emulsifiers or vectors for a large number of cosmetic preparations. A composition containing 3% by weight of the gelling and / or thickening agent (Example III) has thus made it possible to emulsify up to 40% of oil. In oil-in-water emulsions, the addition of the gel according to the invention, at a dose varying from 0.20 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 7.5%, and very advantageously from 0.2 to 4 % in the fatty phase until complete dispersion in cold or hot, thus makes it possible to prepare fluid or viscous emulsions, of perfect stability.

The compositions according to the invention, in particular those which are gelled, can contain a very variable proportion of water which makes it possible to adjust the viscosity of the preparation. It generally ranges between 5 and 90% by weight and in particular between 20 and 70%. Such a content gives the gel a fine texture and a refreshing feeling. As a result, the application of the gels according to the invention gives an impression of freshness which owes nothing to the evaporation of a solvent or to the volatilization of a product with a high vapor pressure. For the production of the O / W type emulsion according to the invention, preferably 30 to 70% water will be used. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention will be used in the form of an emulsion, and in particular an oil in water emulsion. Preferably, the term emulsion will be understood to mean a conventional dispersion. The particle size study presented in Example 7 has shown that, in emulsions according to the invention of the oil-in-water type, produced at 1000 and 3000 revolutions per minute, the average particle size is mainly between 1 μm and 20 μm , or even between 1 μm and 11 μm.

In addition to the facilities for formulating the emulsions hot or cold previously exposed, the gelling and / or thickening agent has the surprising advantage of being able to be incorporated both in the fatty phase and in the aqueous phase in order to produce an emulsion of the type oil-in-water or water-in-oil.

No other additional surfactant is necessary and the compositions according to the invention may contain only the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention. The compositions according to the invention can, in addition, incorporate one or more active principles or ingredients, in particular those chosen from antibacterial agents, viscosity agents, plasticizers, hydrating agents, phytoestrogens, acids amino, α-hydroxylated acids, silicones, fatty acid derivatives, texture products, self-tanning agents, organic or mineral sunscreens, pigmentation agents, depigmenting agents, sea water , antioxidants, vitamins, slimming agents.

It is also possible to incorporate into these gelled or fluid compositions according to the invention, ceramides or pseudo-ceramides, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, plasmalogens, other lipids such as those extracted from gluten, tri- saccharides, neutral lipids, glycolipids and other phospholipids. They can also incorporate flavoring or perfuming agents, dyes, mineral pigments, such as iron oxides, fillers, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin (lanolin , suint), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fluorinated oils (perfluorinated polyethers, perfluorodecaline), fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol) waxes (carnauba wax, montana wax, ozokerite, wax Périlla), other lipophilic gelling agents, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobized silica, polyethylenes, mica or other substances used in cosmetics. As sun protection agent, it is possible in particular to use known organic and / or mineral physical filters, such as, for example, micronized particles of metal oxide, in particular of titanium, iron, cerium oxides. , aluminum, particles of metallic silicates, organic compounds such as tetramethyl butyl phenol bis-benzotriazolyl (MBBT marketed by Ciba). For the realization of sun care, the choice of the filter used will be determined according to its physicochemical properties and the choice of its concentration according to the desired final consistency of the composition, in accordance with the invention.

The compositions according to the invention can also incorporate active ingredients for preparations of the anti-aging cream, anti-wrinkle cream type, as foundations, as cream for the hygiene of infants, for lipstick preparations, softening agents, such as esters of jojoba oil, other thickening agents such as Lanette wax, softening agents such as hazelnut oil or avocado oil, moisturizing agents such as Jojoba extract. One can also incorporate into the gels an agent which lightens the complexion and / or attenuates the visible effect of wrinkles such as the product based on calcium borosilicate and aluminum marketed under the name LUXIL (lightening effect known as "soft-focus ").

The gels according to the invention are suitable for the production of cosmetic creams, in particular with hydrating, anti-wrinkle, slimming power, with anti-irritant power, for the production of products for ocular or palpebral use which are perfectly tolerated, dermal creams with a very good skin tolerance and with a creamy feel, very fresh and very emollient, baby creams, creams for treating diaper rash, lipsticks in the form of sticks, sticks or a fluid preparation to be applied to brush. The same preparations can also be presented in the form of aerosols, milks or lotions.

It is also possible to incorporate opalescent agents or agents with a pearly appearance or a glittery appearance, in particular in oil-in-water emulsions for skin care, for carrying out sun protection care, make-up or, on the contrary, for make-up removing creams. .

A subject of the present invention is therefore the use of the predefined gelling and / or thickening agent as a gelling agent, and / or as a thickening agent, or as an emulsifying agent, or as a stabilizing agent, or as a touch-improving agent and in particular the feeling of freshness to the touch in compositions of an industrial nature, in particular cosmetic, pharmaceutical and in particular dermatological, more specifically intended to be applied to the skin, the integuments and the mucous membranes of humans or animals.

The subject of the invention is also a process for producing an oil-in-water emulsion, consisting in incorporating into the fatty phase the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention preferably in the form of a gel, and in adding that -ci of an aqueous phase.

The compositions according to the invention have no local toxicity or intolerance. They are also not allergenic.

The following examples are presented to illustrate the invention and should in no way be considered as limiting the scope of the invention. Unless otherwise stated, the concentrations are given as a percentage relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE I Examples of films according to the invention:

In the examples below, the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention is used in the form of a gel of particularly advantageous composition, in accordance with the present invention and called Lucagel.

The Lucagel agent is made up of approximately:

- sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer 28 to 46%

-polyisobutene hydrogenated 21 to 34%

- phospholipids 6 to 24% - sunflower oil 4 to 16%

- polyglyceryl stearate - 10 10 to 20%

EXAMPLE II Examples of Uses of the Gelling and / or Thickening Agent

• As an aqueous phase thickener

The complex gelling product called Lucagel disperses in water with simple stirring, without prior swelling and without requiring the addition of a neutralizing agent.

The viscosity of the aqueous gel containing from 1 to 3% of active principle ranges from 14,000 to 100,000 cps. The pH of such a gelled product ranges from 5.5 to 8.5. The gel is sensitive to electrolytes from a concentration of 0.25%. It is compatible with ethanol up to a concentration of 30%. In practice, gels containing 2 to 3% of Lucagel are produced which are dispersed in an aqueous phase or in an oily phase. The gelling agent can also be introduced after emulsification as part of an emulsion stabilization. Dispersion can be carried out cold or hot without difficulty. • For the production of oil-in-water emulsions

Mpde _. Qperative _. 1; 2 to 3% of Lucagel is dispersed in the lipid phase of an oil-in-water emulsion, as well as mineral and vegetable oils, esters of silicone fatty acids, chemical derivatives of cholesterol. Mixtures of lipid products can also be used. They are incorporated cold or hot in the fatty phase. The emulsion is then produced by adding an aqueous phase, until complete dispersion, with or without the addition of additional surfactant or by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with stirring.

MP _. of _. operative _. __ _2. 1 to 3% of Lucagel is dispersed in the cold or hot aqueous phase. The emulsion is then produced by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase or vice versa with stirring.

• As thickener and stabilizer of an oil-in-water emulsion

An oil-in-water emulsion is produced by dispersing an aqueous phase in an oily solution formed of paraffin oil added with cottonseed oil and sweet almond oil. The emulsion is heated to 30 ° C. During cooling, the agent is then added in the form of a pure gel according to the invention.

It is also possible to incorporate a flower essence or a flavoring product such as irone, ionones, cinnamic aldehyde or phenylacetic acid into the emulsion.

EXAMPLE III Sensory study of the effect of the gelling and / or thickening agent in the compositions incorporating it: • Procedure:

General conditions: In accordance with standard NF ISO 1 1036 and in order for the tests to be statistically valid, the tests were carried out on 20 qualified subjects who are expert panelists who have undergone touch training and after evaluation of their reproducibility and sensory discrimination.

The tests were carried out under conditions provided for by standard V09-105. Thus, the products were distributed in white pots, identified by a code specific to the organization of the sensory analysis laboratory. The profile of each product is determined on spreading and then one minute later. In individual and independent test conditions, each expert tested two samples at the same time: the product according to the invention and a reference gelling product, composed of polyacrylamide, C13-C14 isoparaffin and laureth-7. The expert then transcribes these differences in sensation compared to the standard using a measurement grid from 0 to 10, the sensory difference being considered as zero at the value 10.

An average comparison test is then carried out to identify the significant differences between the products.

To interpret this test, the value t 2.08 corresponding to the value of the Student t table is used for 20 tests with a risk of 5%.

The confidence interval for each mean is calculated (CI) according to the formula:

CI = (Standard deviation / number of tests) X (2.08)

Then the differences between the means are carried out for each descriptor according to the following formula: (Average (higher Influence value of the operating mode) -IC) - (Average (lower value) + CI) = X

The difference is said to be significant, when X is strictly greater than 0.

Results and interpretation: The freshness effect observed is increased by 9.4% compared to the gelling products used until now.

The sticky effect observed is reduced by 17.5% compared to the gelling products used until now.

EXAMPLE IV Maximum quantity of emulsifiable oil

We measure the viscosity of compositions containing purified water (qs 100%), Phenonip (phenoxyethanol + paraben esters (Clariant), 0.5%), Cetiol SN (Butyrospermum parkii otherwise called Shea butter (Cognis), qs) , and a variable dose of gelling and / or thickening agent. The amount of emulsifiable oil is the other variable. The following results are obtained:

FIG. 1 translates these results in graphical form and represents the maximum percentage of emulsifiable oil as a function of the percentage of gelling and / or thickening agent by weight of the composition.

The gelling and / or thickening agent thus exhibits remarkable emulsifying properties, and this at low concentrations. At concentrations of the order of 3 to 5%, it in fact makes it possible to emulsify up to 40% of the weight of the oil composition.

EXAMPLE V Study of the compatibility of the gelling and / or thickening agent with the raw materials The composition tested contains:

Purified water qs 100%

Phenonip (phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight

+ paraben esters) (Clariant)

Oil 25% by weight Agent according to the invention 3% by weight

Component tested 3% by weight

The viscosity is then measured and the following results are obtained

It is thus observed that it is possible to use different raw materials, without altering the gelling power of the agent. The gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention is thus compatible with many of the conventional components in cosmetics, such as in particular silicones, extracts of Prunus (sweet almonds), DHA 5%. EXAMPLE VI Influence of different parameters on the viscosity of the composition according to the invention.

A. Influence of the concentration of gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention: The gelling and / or thickening agent is added in different percentages (0.5,1,2,3,5) to purified water, the viscosity is then measured and the following results are obtained.

FIG. 2 represents the viscosity (in cPs) as a function of the concentration of gelling and / or thickening agent.

We note that there is a Gaussian “dose-effect” relationship. Thus, the gelling power of the agent according to the invention is observable from the concentration of 0.5%. From 3%, the gelling effect is particularly strong.

B. Influence of the operating mode: The formulation tested has the following composition:

Purified water 75% by weight

Phenonip (phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight

+ paraben esters) (Clariant)

Cetiol SN 25% by weight

(shea butter, Cognis)

Gelling agent according to the invention 3% by weight

The compositions are produced according to the methods usually used to produce emulsions, phase inversions, and gels in water. The viscosity measurements (in cPs) are as follows:

It is thus observed that the cold processes make it possible to obtain a higher viscosity for the same dose of gelling agent. In addition, the gelling power is only slightly altered by heat and remains very strong. The gelling agent therefore resists relatively well the heat and can therefore be used in preparations requiring hot formulation processes.

C. Influence of electrolytes: The viscosity of a solution containing different concentrations of sodium chloride is measured:

Cetiol SN 25% by weight

(shea butter, Cognis)

Phenonip (phenoxyethanol 0.5%) by weight + paraben esters) (Clariant)

Oil 25% by weight

Gelling agent according to the invention 3% by weight

Variable NaCl

Purified water qs

The following results are obtained:

FIG. 3 represents the viscosity as a function of the concentration of sodium chloride. It is thus observed that the gelling power is relatively constant for salt concentrations of less than about 0.4%. Beyond that, the gelling effect, although still present, is considerably weakened.

In addition, it is noted that the viscosity is kept high for concentrations between 0 and 0.2% NaCl. This is particularly observable at the NaCl concentration of approximately 0.1%.

D. Influence of alcohol: The viscosity of a solution containing different concentrations of alcohol is measured:

Cetiol SN 25% by weight

(shea butter, Cognis)

Phenonip (phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight + paraben esters) (Clariant) Gelling agent according to the invention 3% by weight

Variable alcohol

Purified water qs

The following results are obtained

Figure 4 shows the viscosity as a function of the alcohol concentration. It is observed that the viscosity is not altered by alcohol concentrations up to 5% by weight of the concentration. The gelling power, although reduced, is still important for concentrations of the order of 10% to 20%. Above 20%, the gelling power decreases linearly, disappearing at around 40%. It is therefore the alcohol limit dose. E. Influence of pH:

The viscosity of a solution is initially measured at a pH of 5.68 and adjusted to different pH:

Cetiol SN 25% by weight

(shea butter, Cognis)

Phenonip (phenoxyethanol 0.5% by weight + paraben esters) (Clariant)

Gelling agent according to the invention 3% by weight pH adjusting agent

Purified water qs

Citric acid is used as the acidic adjusting agent and sodium hydroxide as the basic adjusting agent.

The following results are obtained:

Figure 5 shows the variations in viscosity as a function of pH. It is observed that the viscosity is relatively constant in a pH range from 2 to 12, and remains greater than 30 OOOcPs for a gelling agent concentration of 3%. It is noted, in particular, that between the pH values of approximately 4.08 and 7.42, the gelling effect is almost not diminished.

EXAMPLE VII Study of the particle size of an O / W emulsion containing the gelling and / or thickening agent according to the invention:

The composition tested contains as a percentage of the total weight:

Purified water 73.85% Butylene glycol 3%

Glycerin 2%

EDTA, 4Na 0.05%

Lucagel 3%

Cetiol SN 15% α-tocopherol 01%

Phenonip 0.7%

Two compositions were produced by shearing: one at 1000 rpm, the other at 3000 rpm. The particle size was measured according to the usual cold and deflocculating methods. The following results were obtained during these two tests:

This study shows that the majority of the drops are between 1 and 20 μm. For a composition produced at 1000 revolutions / min, this is more particularly a particle size mainly between 1 and 1 μm. For a composition produced at 1000 revolutions / min, this is more particularly a particle size mainly between 1 and 5 μm. EXAMPLE VIII Examples of Cosmetic Compositions Containing the Gelling and / or Thickening Agent • Gel for shampoos:

- Percentage composition

Ingredient Phase I CI (Suppliers) in g

A Demineralized water qs 100g

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.20 Sodium sorbate Sodium Sorbate (Laserson) 0.25 Sodium salicylate Sodium Salicylate (BMP) 0.25 Euxyl K 400 * methyl dibromo glutaronitrile 0.20

+ phenoxyethanol (Seppic) 0.20

Lucagel 3.00

Opacifier 680 *** sodium styrene / acrylates copolymer (Morton) 0.80 B Amisol Trio ** l phospholipids 4.00

+ soy glycine - sterols (LM Cosmetics)

Vitamin E tocopherol (BASF) 0.80

Perfume Fragrance 0.40

C Euroquat C47 * * * * cocamidopropyl betaine (EOC) 4.00

D Texapon N40 sodium laurethsulfate (Cognis) 30.00

E 15% Na Cl (LMC) 13.00

F Triethanolamine triethanolamine (BASF) qs pH 6.50

Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.

2. Phase B is introduced into phase A and this mixture is stirred until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.

3. During the cooling of this mixture, phases C, D, E and F are added successively without ceasing to agitate.

• Rejuvenating cream:

- Percentage composition

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in g

A Soybean soy isoflavones (Glycine soy) sterols (Acatris) 1, 50

Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 1, 00 Wax Lanette Cl 6 Cetyl Alcohol (Cognis) 0.85 Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol (Cognis) 1.25 Hazelnut Oil Hazel Nut Oil (Alban Millier) 1, 50 Luxil calcium Aluminum boro silicate (Potters) 3.00 Germaben II 30% diazolidinylurea 0.80 + 11% methyl paraben + 3% propylparaben + 56% propylene glycol

B Water 75.00

Ultrez 10 Carbomer (Noveon) 0.15

Lucagel 2.00

Herbasol Green tea Camellia sinensis extract (Cosmetochem) 1.00

C 1401 Dimethicone Copolyol fluid (Dow Corning) 0.50

D Blue n ° 1 FDC Blue 1 (LCW) qs

Serine Serine (Ajinomoto) 0.15

Histidine Histidine (Ajinomoto) 0.15 Arginine L- Arginine (Ajinomoto) 0.30 Lovin Fragrance 0.24

Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.

2. Phase A is emulsified in phase B with stirring.

3. During cooling, phases C, D and E are introduced successively,

4. The final mixture is stirred until a homogeneous cream is obtained.

• Anti-aging moisturizer:

In this composition, Lucagel is used as a stabilizer for another emulsifier.

- Percentage composition

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qspl00%

Satiaxane CX 91 xanthan gum (Laserson) 0.20 EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.02 Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 2.00 Butylene glycol Butylene Glycol (Interchimie) 3.00 Tri Methyl Glycine Betaine (Finfeeds / LMC) 4.00

B Amisol ^® Soft behenic alcohol 4.00 + glyceryl stearate + soybean sterols (soy glycine) (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.50

Nipanox BHT BHT (Clariant) 0.05

Cetiol SB 45 butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 2.50

Phytosqualane Squalane (Sophim) 5.00

Tegosoft CO cetyl octanoate (Degussa) 3.00

Eutanol G16S decyl hexyl stearate (Cognis) 3.00

Isopropyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate (Cognis) 2.00

Lanette 16 cetyl alcohol (Cognis) 0.60

Palmitic acid Palmitic Acid (Dubois) 0.40

Abil Wax 2440 dimethicone behenoxy (Degussa) 0.50

Abil 350 dimethicone (Degussa) 0.80

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 3.00

Parsol MCX ethyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 (Givaudan)

C Lucagel 0.40

D Euxyl K400 Phenoxyethanol 0.20

+ methylbromoglutaronitrile

(Seppic)

E Mamaku V. E Water 2.00

+ cyatheaceae extract

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

F C-3810 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.35

Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 70-75 ° C.

2. Phase B is incorporated into phase A with stirring. Agitation for 15 to 20 minutes is then necessary to hydrate the phospholipids. 3. The mixture is homogenized at 5,000 rpm (Silverson or Ultra Turrax device) for 5 minutes.

4. Phases C and D are introduced into this mixture with stirring and the product thus formed is well mixed until homogenization.

5. The product is left to cool with gentle stirring.

6. At approximately 35 ° C, phases E and F are introduced.

7. The whole is homogenized at 1,500 rpm for 1 minute to avoid recrystallization during a long storage period.

- Characteristics of the composition

Anti-aging hydrating and softening lotion.

This composition has an acidic pH.

- Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.10

Tri methyl glycine Betaine (Finfeeds / LMC) 3.00

Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 2.00

Elestab CPN Chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.10

B Grapeseed oil seed oil (Yitis vinifera) (IES) 5.00

Phytosqualane squalane (Sophim) 5.00

Cetiol SB45 Butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 2.00 Vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.10

Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Lucagel 2.50

C Isocell ^® life Water 3.00

+ lecithin

+ Glycerol

+ butylene glycol

+ sodium acrylate / styrene copolymer

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

D Demineralized water Water 2.00

Laminactin Glycerin 2.00 + water

+ lysolecithin

+ Perilla frutescens seed oil (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

E Citric acid 15% Water + citric acid 6.67

F FDC Blue 1 CI 42090 (LCW) qs

FDC yellow 5 CI 19 140 (LCW) qs

G C-3847 Fragrance (Vanessence)) 0.20 Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 60 ° C.

2. Phase A is incorporated into phase B with stirring. The whole is mixed until the cream is thick and homogeneous.

3. The product is left to cool.

4. At 40 ° C phases C and D are introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization.

5. Phase E is then introduced and the whole homogenized.

6. At approximately 35 ° C., phase F is introduced and the whole is mixed until a homogeneous product is obtained.

- Characteristics of the composition:

• Anti-aging hydrating mineral cream:

This cream is particularly rich in mineral salts.

- Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in% A Demineralized water qs 100%

Elastab CPN Chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.10

B Alphaflow 30 Polyisobutene hydrogenated 5.00 (Color Creations)

Phytosqualane Squalane ((Sophim)) 2.50

Crodamol W Dist. stearyl heptanoate (Croda) 2.50

Cetiol SB 45 Butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 3.00

Vitamin E acetate Tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.10

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 3.00

Lucagel 2.50

Mamaku V. E Water 2.00

+ cyatheaceae extract

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

D Laminactine ^® Glycerin 2.00

+ water

+ lysolecithin

+ perilla frutescens seed oil

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

FDC RED 4 Cl 14700 (LCW) qs

FDC YELLOW 5 Cl 19140 (LCW) qs

C-3847 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.30 - Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 60 ° C.

3. The product is left to cool with stirring.

4. At 40 ° C, phases C and D are introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization.

5. At approximately 35 ° C, phases C, D, E and F are introduced.

- Characteristics of the composition

• Moisturizing and refreshing cream for sensitive skin;

This composition is used cold.

- Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

EDTA, 4Na (Lambert Rivière) 0.10

Glycerin (Interchimie) 3.00

Tri Methyl Glycine Betaine (Finfeeds / LMC) 2.00

B Lucagel 2.50 phenonip phenoxyethanol 1.00 paraben esters (Clariant) phytosqualane squalane (Sophim) 4.00

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 4.00

Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (IES) 4.00

Dub Inin isononyl isonoanoate (Dubois) 4.00

DC 200.5 CS dimefhicone (Dow Corning) 4.00

Tocopherol tocopherol (Laserson) 0.10

C Isocell ^® Life water 2.00

+ lecithin

+ glycerol

+ butylene glycol

+ sodium acrylate / styrene copolymer

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

D Suprem 'Plum water 2.00

- plum extract (Prunus domesticά)

- Hydrogenated hecithin

+ polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate

+ glycerin

-t-stearate glyceride

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

C-3810 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.20

- Procedure: 1. The two phases A and B are mixed at room temperature with gentle stirring.

2. The product is mixed until the cream is thick and homogeneous.

3. Phases C, D and E are introduced successively and the whole is mixed gently until homogenized. Characteristics of the composition:

Radiance revealing cream.

This composition is a cream containing particles and at an acid pH. It is particularly well suited for exfoliation.

- Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 2.00

Elestab CPN Chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.10

B Cetiol SN cetearyle octanoate (Cognis) 3.00

Isohexadecane Isohexdecane (CCW) 3.00

Lipex 203 Mangifera indica (Unipex) 3.00

DC 345 Cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 3.00

Cetyl palmitate Cetyl Palmitate (Gattefosse) 1.00

Salicylic Acid Salicylic Acid (Saci -CFPA) 1.00 phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Lucagel 4.00

C Apricot kernel powder Prunus armeniaca 3.00 (Alban Muller)

D Isocel ^® L citrus water 2.00

+ alcohol

+ lecithin

+ glycerin

+ Citrus limonum

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

Mamaku V. E Water 2.00

+ cyatheaceae extract

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

E FDC Yellow 5 CI 19140 (LCW) qs

DC Red 33 CI 17200 (LCW) qs

F C-3810 Fragrance 0.40

Procedure:

1. The two phases A and B are heated to around 70 ° C.

2. Phase A is incorporated into phase B, with moderate stirring. Agitation is gradually increased to allow good homogenization

(around 1500 to 2000 rpm). Agitation is reduced when the product becomes thick and homogeneous.

3. The product is left to cool. 4. Phase C is introduced.

5. At approximately 35 ° C, phases D, E and F are introduced and the whole is mixed slowly until complete homogenization. - Characteristics of the composition

• Mattifying mask with Varsile and oils - Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

Veegum HV Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 1.00 (Vanderbilt)

B Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 3.00 tri methyl glycine betaine (Finfeeds / LMC) 2.00

Elestab CPN chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.20

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.02

C Biophilic ^® S C alcohols 12-16 1.00

+ lecithin

+ palmitic acid

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

Dub GVF Glyceryl linoleate 2.00 + Glyceryl oleate + Glyceryl linoleate (Dubois)

Phytosqualane squalane (Sophim) 1.00

Vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.50

Phenonip phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 5.00

D Dermosoft octiol glycol caprylyle (DR Straetmans / LMC) 0.50

E Kaolin ultra-ventilated clay (Argiletz) 7.00

F Lucagel 1.50

G Demineralized water 15.00

Matipure ^® magnesium aluminum silicate 3.00

+ hydroxyethylcellulose

+ black cumin grain oil

(Nigella sativa)

+ pumpkin seed oil

(Cucurbita pepo)

+ phospholipids

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

HC-3810 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.35

- Procedure:

1. The two phases A and C are heated to around 70-75 ° C.

2. Phase B is incorporated into phase A.

3. Phase C is then introduced. The mixture is left under gentle stirring for 15 to 20 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids.

4. The mixture is then homogenized by vigorous stirring at 2000 rpm (device Silverson or ultra Turrax) for 1 minute.

5. Phases D and E are introduced.

6. Phase F is introduced and the mixture obtained is stirred until a homogeneous product is obtained.

7. Phase G is then introduced and the mixture is left to cool.

8. At approximately 35 ° C, phase H is introduced.

Characteristics of the composition:

• Lightening cream :

This composition has a basic pH and contains electrolytes (MAP). Lucagel is also coupled with another emulsifier

- Percentage composition

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

Butylene glycol Butylene Glycol (Interchimie) 2.00 Satiaxane CX91 xanthan gum (Laserson) 0.20 Citrate Na sodium citrate (Lambert Rivière) 0.30 Triethanolamine (Laserson) qs pH 8

B Amisol ^® Soft behenic alcohol 5.00 + glyceryl stearate + phospholipids

+ soybean sterols (soy glycine) (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

Lanette 16 cetyl alcohol (Cognis) 4.00 glyceryl stearate Glyceryl stearate (Dubois) 1.50

Nipanox BHT BHT (Clariant) 0.05

Phenonip phenoxyethanol 1.00 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Parsol MCX ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00 (Givaudan)

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 6.00

Cetiol SN cetearyle octanoate (Cognis) 4.00

^• Bisabolol 0.50

C Lucagel 1.00

D Demineralized water 12.00

EDTA, 4NA Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) ^' 0.20

MAP ascorbyl magnesium phosphate 3.00 (Cosmotochem)

E Butylene glycol Butylene Glycol (Interchimie) 2.00

UV Titanium M212 CI 77891 (Kemira) 2.00

F C-3221/4 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.35 Procedure:

1. The two phases A and C are heated to around 70-75 ° C.

2. Phase B is incorporated into phase A with gentle stirring. The mixture is kept under gentle stirring for 15 to 20 minutes to hydrate the phospholipids.

3. The mixture is then homogenized by vigorous stirring at 3 OOOtrs / min for 3 minutes.

4. Phase D is introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization. 5. The product is left to cool, with gentle stirring. 6. At 40 ° C (when the viscosity decreases), phase D is added and the whole is mixed until homogenization.

7. At 35 ° C, phases E and F are introduced and the whole is mixed until homogenization. 8. Finally, the product is homogenized for 1 minute at 1,500 rpm to avoid recrystallization during a long storage period. The pH is adjusted if necessary.

- Characteristics of the composition

• Slimming gel-cream:

This gel is a slimming agent with caffeine (Isocell slim) and sodium salts (sodium salicylate)

- Percentage composition

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.10

Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 3.00

Elestab CPN chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.10

Satiaxane CX91 xanthan gum (Laserson) 0.20

B Cetiol SN cetearyle octanoate (Cognis) 5.00

DC 345 cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 5.00

Vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 0.10

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Lucagel 5.00

Demineralized water 15.00

Isocell slim Caffeine 5.00

+ sodium salicylate

+ lecithin

+ silica

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)

D Mamaku V. E water 2.00

+ cyatheaceae extract

(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) C-3810 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.20

Procedure:

1. Phases A, B and C are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.

2. Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring. Agitation is increased until a thick and homogeneous product is obtained.

3. Phase C is added with gentle stirring. Stirring is continued until a homogeneous product is obtained.

4. The mixture is left to cool.

5. Phases D and E are introduced and the whole is kept under stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

- Characteristics of the composition:

• Face powder :

Percentage composition: INCI Ingredient (Suppliers) base in% i. Demineralized water qs 100%

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.10

Dermosoft octiol Glycol Caprylic 0.50 (Dr Straetmans / LMC)

Lucagel 5.00

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Dub Inin isononyl isonoanoate (Dubois) 10.00

Melanin mimic Titanium dioxide CI77499, CI77491 10.00

CI77942, hydrogenated decene oligomers Apricot kernel oil PEG40 ester, cetearyl Glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, Polyhydroxystearic acid, alumina dimethicone (Granula)

Procedure:

2. Phase B is introduced into phase A with stirring. Phase C is added with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

• Conditioner: (hair care without surfactant)

- Percentage composition:

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.20

Glycerin (Interchimie) 2.00 B DC 1401 Dimethicone Copolyol (Dow Corning) 8.00

Lucagel 3.00 Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50

+ paraben esters

(Clariant)

Demineralized water 10.00 Leogard GP Polyquaternium 10 (Akzo Nobel) 0.20 EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.20

D Orange Sweet Sweet orange essential oil (Australian Botanical) 0.20 Citric acid 15% Water + citric acid up to pH5

- Procedure:

1. Phases A and B are heated separately to approximately 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.

2. Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring. Phase C is added with gentle stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

3. The mixture is left to cool

4. At 35 ° C, phases D and E are introduced and the mixture is homogenized.

• Sun care gel-cream:

- Percentage composition INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in% A Parsol MCX Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnate 7.50 (Givaudan)

Parsol 1789 Methoxy butyle dibenzoate methane 2.00 (Givaudan)

Eusolex 6300 4 methylbenzylidene camphor (Merck) 2.50

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50 + paraben esters (Clariant)

Dermosoft octiol glycol Caprylic (DR Straetmans / LMC) ι 0.50

Vitamin E acetate tocopheryl acetate (Laserson) 1.00

DC 593 dimethicone 1.00 + trimethylsiloxysilicate (Dow Corning)

Abil AV 1000 phenyl trimethicone (Degussa) 1.00

DC 345 Cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning) 5.00

Alphaflow 30 Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 4.00 (Color Creations)

Cetiol SB 45 Butyrospermum parkii (Cognis) 1.50

Lucagel 3.50

B Demineralized water qs 100%

Glycerin Glycerin (Interchimie) 3.00

EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Univar) 0.02

Elestab CPN Chlorphenesin (Serobiological Lab) 0.20

C Z-COTE CI-77497 (Sun Smart) 5.00

D C-3043/23 Fragrance (Vanessence) 0.35 Procedure:

2. Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

3. The mixture is left to cool.

4. At 35 ° C, phases C and D are introduced and the mixture is homogenized.

Characteristics of the composition

• Sun care gel-cream: This composition is a physical and chemical sun care

- Percentage composition

INCI Ingredient Phase (Suppliers) in%

A Demineralized water qs 100%

Lucagel 5.00

Phenonip Phenoxyethanol 0.50

+ paraben esters

(Clariant)

Dermosoft octiol Caprylyl glycol (DR Straetmans / LMC) 0.50 EDTA, 4Na Tetrasodium EDTA (Lambert Rivière) 0.10 B Dub Inin isononyl isonoanoate (Dubois) 10.00 Granlux GAI-45 Titanium dioxide, isononyle 10.00 isononanoate, Polyglyceryl 4 isostearate, cetym PEG / PPG 10/1, Dimethicone, hexyl laurate, aluminum stearate

(Granula)

- Procedure:

1. Phase A is heated to around 60-65 ° C with gentle stirring until homogenized.

2. Then it is left to cool

3. At 35 ° C., phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Claims

1. Gelling and / or thickening agent characterized in that it is formed from the combination of at least three constituents: a polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate copolymer and / or an anionic acrylic copolymer, phospholipids d 'vegetable origin, and a polyglyceryl acylate.

2. Gelling and / or thickening agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains a concentration of copolymer varying from 20 to 50% of the total weight of the agent, a concentration of phospholipids varying from 6 to 40% and a concentration of polyglyceryl acylate varying from 5 to 40%.

3. Gelling and or thickening agent according to claim 1 or 2, in which the copolymer is present at a concentration varying from 50 to 80% in a diluted form in a hydrogenated polyisobutene containing from 40% to 60% of active material.

4. Gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of the preceding claims, in which the phospholipids are in the form of lecithins which are present at a concentration varying from 10% to 40% by total weight of the agent.

5. A gelling and / or thickening agent according to claim 4 in which the lecithins contain less than 40% of oil and more than 60% of phospholipids.

6. Gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of the preceding claims, in which the acrylic copolymer is a sodium acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.

7. Gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of the preceding claims, in which the polyglyceryl acylate is a stearate, a distearate or a linoleate.

8. A gelling and / or thickening agent according to claim 7, in which the polyglyceryl acylate is a polyglyceryl stearate.

9. Gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of the preceding claims, consisting of three constituents: copolymer of polyacrylamide and / or ammonium acrylate or anionic acrylic copolymers, of phospholipids of plant origin and of acylate of polyglyceryl, these three constituents completing the agent to 100% by weight.

10. Aqueous, fluid or gelled composition, intended to be applied to the skin, mucous membranes or the integuments, characterized in that it contains, as active principle, at least one gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of the preceding claims, in combination or in mixture with one or more excipients, or vehicles suitable for cosmetic or dermatological use.

11. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it is produced in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, with or without additional emulsifying agent, said gelling and / or thickening agent, under the form of a gel, being incorporated in the fatty phase or in the aqueous phase of said compositions.

12. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 10 and 11 in which the average size of the emulsion particles varies from 1 to 11 μm.

13. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 10 to 12, in which the gelling and / or thickening agent is present at a concentration varying from 0.05 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 10 to 13, in which the gelling and / or thickening agent is present at a concentration varying from 0.2 to 4%.

15. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of claims 10 to 14, in which the vehicle is water or an aqueous vehicle, in a proportion ranging between 20 and 70%.

16. Use of the gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of claims 1 to 15, as stabilizing and / or thickening agent in an emulsion of cosmetic or dermatological nature.

17. Use of the gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of claims 1 to 16, in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 10% in an emulsion of cosmetic or industrial nature.

18. A method of producing an oil-in-water emulsion consisting in incorporating into the fatty phase the gelling and / or thickening agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, and in adding the latter of an aqueous phase.