FR3142087A1 - MOISTURIZING COMPLEX, AND USE IN MOISTURIZING COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

[1] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, and/or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or skin (face and/or or body), more particularly that of compositions such as moisturizing, care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions. [2] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of six compounds (also called hydrating complex): low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel. The composition according to the invention is a moisturizing cosmetic composition, and in particular a care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition which also provides a moisturizing effect. The invention also includes a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel-cream, a cream, a balm, a two-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention , as well as l. The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cosmetic care, hydration and/or makeup of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), as well as a cosmetic process of care and/or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or skin (face and /or body).

Description

MOISTURIZING COMPLEX, AND USE IN MOISTURIZING COMPOSITIONS

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular the care, and/or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or skin (face and/or body). , more particularly to that of compositions such as moisturizing, care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of six compounds (also called moisturizing complex): low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt , glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel. The composition according to the invention is a moisturizing cosmetic composition, and in particular a care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition which also provides a moisturizing effect. The invention also includes a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel-cream, a cream, a balm, a two-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention . The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cosmetic care, hydration and/or makeup of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or the skin (face and/or body), as well as a cosmetic process for care and/or hygiene of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably lips and/or skin (face and /or body).

The plaintiff is the creator of Plant Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Her research for raw materials and her expertise in formulation push her to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is leading an innovation process to substitute ingredients from non-renewable and not easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to guarantee at the same time the safety, effectiveness and sensoriality of the products for consumers.

Compositions comprising moisturizing complexes have been present for many years, particularly in the field of moisturizing cosmetic compositions: the advantage of this type of complex is that it makes it possible to considerably prolong the moisturizing effect of the compositions. Conventionally, the term moisturizing composition means a composition comprising compounds such as humectant agents, hygroscopic molecules such as glycerin or other glycols, urea, amino acids, betaine, sugars or hyaluronic acid. Classic moisturizing cosmetic compositions have many advantages, such as a hydration capacity of up to 48 hours. However, despite certain advantages, classic moisturizing cosmetic compositions still retain certain constraints, in particular the difficulty of obtaining a moisturizing effect lasting beyond 48 hours.

For certain applications, conventional moisturizing cosmetic compositions cannot be used, in particular because of the sticky effect induced by certain compounds useful for hydration, including betaine.

There is thus a need to propose new moisturizing cosmetic compositions which resolve the problems observed in known compositions. In particular, there is a need to offer a new moisturizing complex, which can be integrated into a whole range of cosmetic compositions such as foundations, masks, sunscreens, lotions, serums, gel-creams, creams, balms or gels which allow to confer a hydration capacity or to improve a pre-existing hydration capacity of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably of the lips and/or skin (face and/or body).

It is the applicant's merit to propose a new composition comprising a combination of six raw materials and which, when incorporated into a cosmetic composition, gives it a moisturizing effect, or considerably improves it when it is already present. The new composition according to the invention allows a significantly prolonged duration of hydration of keratin materials compared to current solutions. The composition according to the invention can provide a moisturizing effect, or an improved moisturizing effect, up to 72 hours after application, or even 100 hours and beyond after only a single application. The new moisturizing complex also makes it possible to obtain moisturizing cosmetic, care, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions whose moisturizing capacity is much greater than those not comprising the combination of six raw materials according to the 'invention.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of non-rinsed moisturizing cosmetic compositions. By non-rinsed we mean a composition which is intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (See article 1 of directive 76/768/EC). In the context of the invention, the term “unrinsed” means a composition applied without being rinsed afterwards. The composition of the invention therefore makes it possible to maintain in good condition the various superficial parts of the human body to which it is applied. This point was verified by a standard tolerance test sequence.

The invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition comprising low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel.

Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention the combination of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe vera gel, gives the moisturizing effect. This combination of six raw materials, also called moisturizing complex, can be used in the composition of various cosmetic compositions, such as moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene compositions.

Advantageously, the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in a range from 5,000 Da to 15,000 Da, preferably 10,000 Da. This may be low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with CAS number 9004-61-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 0.5% of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid is sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight in a range from 500,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, preferably 1,000,000 Da. It may be sodium hyaluronate with CAS number 9067-32-7/9004-61-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 2% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, glycerin is of plant origin. Glycerin has a purity index in the range of 99.0 to 101%, and has a refractive index in the range of 1.47 and 1.475. It may be glycerin with CAS number 56-81-5. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 15% of glycerin, preferably 5 to 10%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, diglycerin is of plant origin. Diglycerin has a purity index greater than 90%, and has a refractive index ranging from 1.275 to 1.285. It may be diglycerin with CAS number 59113-36-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 10% of diglycerin, preferably 1 to 5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, gellan gum is of natural origin. This may be KELCOGEL grade gellan gum (for example CG-LA). Gellan gum has a gel strength generally in the range of 190.0 blooms to 290.0 blooms. This may be gellan gum with CAS number 71010-52-1. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 0.5% gellan gum, preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, the aloe vera gel may comprise water and aloe vera powder. It may be aqua & aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder (INCI). According to the invention, the aloe vera gel may comprise 90 to 99.9% water and 0.1 to 10% aloe vera, preferably 99.5% water and 0.5%. of aloe vera, relative to the mass of said aloe vera gel. In the gel, aloe vera is generally present in powder form. The aloe vera gel can for example be a gel recomposed by hydration of an ALOE VERA POWDER 200X powder, CAS number 85507-69-3 / 94349-62-9. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 1 to 40% of aloe vera gel, preferably 5 to 20%, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise:
- 0.01 to 0.5% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid,
- from 0.01 to 2% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt,
- from 1 to 15% glycerin,
- from 1 to 10% diglycerin,
- from 0.01 to 0.5% gellan gum, and
- from 1 to 40% aloe vera gel,
the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise:
- 0.01 to 0.1% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid,
- 0.01 to 0.1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt,
- 5 to 10% glycerin,
- 1 to 5% diglycerin,
- from 0.1 to 0.5% gellan gum, and
- 5 to 20% aloe vera gel,
the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise water, optionally one or more elements chosen from solvents miscible with water, fatty substances, including oils, UVA and/or UVB filters, surfactants, polyols, gelling agents, emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters, perfumes, dyes, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils and even cosmetic active ingredients.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more lipophilic excipients chosen from a UVA and/or UVB filter, a perfume, a dye, a pigment, an oil, preferably of plant origin, an ester, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, an antioxidant, an essential oil and a lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

By lipophilic excipients is meant, when it is liquid, a liquid immiscible with water, that is to say when it is introduced in a proportion of at least 1% by mass in water at 25 °C, is not soluble in water at all, or soluble at less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, not soluble in water, that is to say when it is introduced at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble at less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil can be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The oil is preferably of plant origin and/or preferably of natural origin.

In the context of the invention, the term “oil” means oily/fatty compounds whose definition is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble at less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. By “non-volatile” we mean an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). By “volatile” we mean an oil likely to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils which can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

Advantageously, the oil can be chosen from the group comprising oils of vegetable origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor oils. , sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grape seeds, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose , olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy, flax, squalane (sugar cane oil), C10 to C30 alkanes and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ester. The ester can be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ester is preferably of plant origin and/or preferably of natural origin.

Advantageously, the ester can be chosen from the group comprising plant esters, preferably chosen from ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate , isononyl isononanoate, C8 to C30 alcohol triglycerides (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride), dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the fatty acid can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids. Preferably, the fatty acid can be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from the group comprising plant fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the UVA and/or UVB filter is a lipophilic organic UV filter. The lipophilic organic UV filter may be one or more lipophilic organic UV filters chosen from lipophilic organic UVA filters, lipophilic organic UVB filters, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the UVA and/or UVB filter can be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane or avobenzone, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, salicylic derivatives, such as homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, cinnamic derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, cinoxate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate , β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, such as octocrylene, benzophenone derivatives, such as benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8 , n-hexyl benzophenone-12, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, benzylidene camphor derivatives, such as 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane, triazine derivatives, such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, silicone triazines substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s -triazine;- anthranilic derivatives, such as menthyl anthranilate, imidazoline derivatives, such as ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate, benzalmalonate derivatives, such as di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, such as 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and benzoxazole derivatives, such as 2 ,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, lipophilic merocyanine derivatives , such as octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate. Preferably, the UVA and/or UVB filter can be chosen from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, 2- n-hexyl (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(4' -dineopentyl amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6 -(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2 ,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or colorant. The pigment can be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and/or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lacquers, mother-of-pearl and/or optical effect pigments. They can be synthetic or natural.

In the context of the invention, the term “pigment” means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which can be monochrome, lacquers, mother-of-pearl, or pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The mineral (inorganic) pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, blue ferric, and their mixtures). Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.

In the context of the invention, the term “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles or elements of all shapes, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally presents color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluorflogopith and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.

In the context of the invention, the term “dye” means coloring substances which are not pigments or nacres. This may, for example, be a dye such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one perfume. By “perfume” is meant a perfuming composition whose primary function consists of modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

In the context of the invention, the term "cosmetic active" means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair systems and capillary, lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, maintaining them in good condition or correct body odor. A cosmetic active ingredient is therefore generally an ingredient that acts on the skin to provide it with real benefit. For example, an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, hydrating, mattifying, redensifying.

Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, matricaria, chamomile, rosemary, calendula. The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by those skilled in the art depending on the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, hydrating, mattifying, redensifying, deodorant).

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one essential oil. The term “essential oil” means an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. We mainly find terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, depending on the original composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic excipients chosen from a surfactant, a dye, a polyol (different from glycerin and diglycerin already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention), a gelling agent (i.e. a polysaccharide, different from the high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention, including in particular gums (different from the gellan gum already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention, and/ or a carbomer), a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, a chelating agent and a hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

By hydrophilic excipient is meant a liquid miscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble at least 90% by weight, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, that is to say soluble at least 0.1 g/L.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant. The surfactant may be an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactant or a combination of mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant can be chosen from the group comprising an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl sulfoacetate, an isethionate, a taurate, an acylglutamate, and a sarcosinate.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one, or two, or three of the anionic surfactants mentioned. For example, the composition of the invention may contain an ammonium lauryl sulfate, a lauryl sulfoacetate, a sodium cocoyl isethionate, a sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, a sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, a sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, a sodium stearoyl glutamate, a sodium lauroyl glutamate or a mixture.

According to the invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant can be chosen from the group comprising N-alkylamidobetaines, betaines, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate

According to the invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant can be chosen from the group comprising glycolipids, alkylpolyglucosides, glyceryl and fatty acid esters, sucrose and fatty acid esters, esters oxyalkylenated sucrose, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols and glucamine derivatives. For example: the composition of the invention may contain decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, glyceryl oleate, pEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sorbitan palmitate, cocoyl methyl glucamide, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl -4 caprate.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one gelling agent (different from gellan gum and high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids of the moisturizing complex). The gelling agent may be a polysaccharide, a carbomer (for example from CAS = 9007-20-9 / 9003-01-4 / 76050-42-5 / 9062-04-8) or a polyacrylate, preferably a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide can be chosen from xanthan gum, glucomannan, gellan gum, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g. sodium hyaluronate) and their mixtures. Preferably, the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum (for example from CAS 11138-66-2), glucomannan, sodium carboxymethyl starch, algin, chondrus crispus powder and their mixture.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C6 polyol (different from the glycerin and diglycerin already present in the moisturizing complex according to the invention). The term polyol means a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions. The C3 to C6 polyol can be linear or branched. The polyol is preferably a diol. The polyol can be chosen from propylene glycol (1,2-propandiol), butylene glycol (1,2-butandiol), pentylene glycol (1,2-pentandiol), 1-propane, 3-diol, methypropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative and/or an antimicrobial agent. The at least one preservative and/or one antimicrobial agent may be chosen from the substances listed in Appendix V “Preservatives” of Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of November 30, 2009 may be added, and more particularly from the sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant can be chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol and mixtures thereof. It may be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient. .

Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group comprising a floral water such as centaurea cyanus flower water (Cornflower floral water) or carpobrotus edulis extract.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one chelating agent. The chelating agent may be chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. It may be any other cosmetic substance having the capacity to bind positive ions to form a stable complex.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide ( pH adjuster), citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A. (retinol).

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be a liquid serum, a gel cream or a rich cream and comprise:
- 0.05 to 0.1% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid,
- 0.05 to 0.1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt,
- 5 to 10% glycerin,
- 1 to 3% diglycerin,
- from 0.2 to 0.4% gellan gum, and
- 6 to 12% aloe vera gel,
- from 0.1 to 10% of at least one polyol (different from glycerin and diglycerin),
- from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient,
- from 0.05 to 0.3% of a chelating agent,
- from 0.01 to 0.4% of at least one inorganic salt, preferably calcium chloride,
- optionally from 0.01 to 0.5% of at least one oil,
- optionally from 0.05 to 0.5% of a perfume,
- optionally from 0.1 to 3% of at least one surfactant,
- optionally from 0.1 to 1% of at least one antioxidant,
- optionally from 0.5 to 5% of at least one gelling agent, preferably at least one polysaccharide (different from low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid),
- from 45 to 86% water,
the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be a liquid serum, a gel cream or a rich cream and comprise:
- 0.01 to 0.1% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid,
- 0.01 to 0.1% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt,
- 5 to 8% glycerin,
- 1 to 3% diglycerin,
- from 0.2 to 0.4% gellan gum, and
- 6 to 12% aloe vera gel,
- from 0.1 to 10% of at least one polyol (different from glycerin and diglycerin),
- from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient,
- from 0.05 to 0.3 of a chelating agent,
- from 0.01 to 0.4% of at least one inorganic salt, preferably calcium chloride,
- from 0.1 to 1% of at least one surfactant,
- optionally from 0.01 to 0.5% of at least one oil,
- from 60 to 88% water,
the percentages being given in relation to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the moisturizing complex, the following advantages:
- improve hydration, up to at least 72 hours for a single application, and up to 100 hours in certain applications such as hydrating serums, for example for the face,
- impart a moisturizing effect to compositions which normally do not have one (e.g. foundation, sun protection, etc.),
- strongly improve the moisturizing effect of moisturizing compositions, and
- effective hydration, without sticky effect.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition.

In the present invention, when an interval is given, the limits are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% are included in the interval.

In the present invention, all percentages (%) are given as a mass percentage, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In the case of cosmetic compositions such as so-called biphasic compositions or emulsions, the percentages can also be given in relation to the total mass of the oily phase or the aqueous phase.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin. Thus, by “almost exclusively” is meant a composition which comprises less than 10% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 2%. Unavoidable compounds such as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and pigments essential in makeup products are designated as materials of synthetic origin. For example, a makeup remover type composition can generally include less than 10% of products of synthetic origin (i.e. preservatives, perfumes). For example, an anti-aging treatment type composition may generally include less than 5% products of synthetic origin. For example, a moisturizing type composition may generally comprise less than 5% of products of synthetic origin.

In the context of the invention, the term "product of natural origin" means a product falling within the definition given by standard ISO 16128: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50 % of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or by any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, that is, found in nature. In the context of the invention, we consider products of natural origin to be products such as butters or oils derived from plants or hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.

Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more phases (including at least one aqueous phase). The composition according to the invention can be in the form of a lotion, a serum, a gel, an emulsion (e.g. balm, cream or gel-cream), water-in-oil or oil-in- water, or a two-phase composition (i.e. a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear speed and become homogeneous by stirring and return again to two separate phases after stopping the agitation).

The invention also relates to a foundation, a mask, a sunscreen, a lotion, a serum, a gel-cream, a cream, a balm, a two-phase composition or a gel comprising a cosmetic composition according to 'invention.

An object of the invention is also a moisturizing, makeup, sun protection or hair hygiene composition, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The invention also includes a use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims to moisturize the skin and/or lips, preferably for a period of at least 72 hours, and more preferably from 72 to 100 hours. .

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care, hydration and/or makeup of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably the lips and/or skin (face and/or body), comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the lips, the skin (face and/or body) and/or the hair, at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The invention also includes the use of a biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hydration and/or makeup of keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably of lips and/or skin (face and/or body).

Advantageously, the use according to the invention may be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention to moisturize, protect and/or nourish keratin materials (skin and/or hair), preferably the lips and/or the skin ( face and/or body).

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

Example 1: study of the effectiveness of the moisturizing complex according to the invention in three different compositions and verification of the effectiveness of hydration over 72 hours.

The study was carried out on different galenics in order to demonstrate its effectiveness on three different care galenics:
- Liquid serum (composition 1);
- Gel Cream (composition 2) and
- Rich Cream (composition 3).

Process for preparing the 3 compositions: The aqueous phase (A) is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. For compositions 2 and 3, the fatty phase (B) is prepared in parallel and also heated to a temperature of 75°C. For compositions 2 and 3, the emulsion is produced by adding the fatty phase (B) to the aqueous phase (A) at a temperature of 75°C with vigorous stirring. The compositions are then cooled with slow stirring until room temperature (approximately 20-25°C). Materials that are more sensitive (C) to temperature, such as perfume, for example, are introduced during cooling. INCI Phase Composition 1 (% by weight) Composition 2 (% by weight) Composition 3 (% by weight) AQUA HAS 63.16-85.5 48.66-75.71 52.46-81.51 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE HAS 0.4-1.0 - 0.4-1.0 ALOE BARBADENSIS GEL HAS 6-12 6-12 6-12 DIGLYCERIN HAS 1-3 1-3 1-3 GELLAN GUM HAS 0.2-0.4 0.2-0.4 0.2-0.4 GLUCOMANNAN HAS - - 0.5-1.2 PENTYLENE GLYCOL HAS 1.5-3 1.5-3 1.5-3 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL HAS 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE HAS 0.05-0.3 0.05-0.3 0.05-0.3 CALCIUM CHLORIDE HAS 0.01-0.4 0.01-0.4 0.01-0.4 GLYCERIN HAS 5-8 5-8 5-10 SODIUM HYALURONATE HAS 0.05-0.1 0.05-0.1 0.05-0.1 HYALURONIC ACID HAS 0.05-0.1 0.05-0.1 0.05-0.1 CHONDRUS CRISPUS POWDER HAS 0.01-1 - - 1,2-HEXANEDIOL HAS 0.1-1 0.1-1 0.1-1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL. HAS - - 2-5 SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH HAS - - 0.5-1.5 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL B 0.01-0.5 0.01-0.5 0.01-0.5 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE B - 0.8-2.5 - SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE B 0.2-0.8 ALGIN B - 1.2-2.2 - CARPOBROTUS EDULIS EXTRACT VS 0.01-5 0.01-5 0.01-5 SODIUM HYDROXIDE VS 0.01-0.04 0.01-0.04 0.01-0.04 POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE VS - - 0.5-1.0 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE VS - - 0.5-1.0 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE VS - 8-11 -

Table 1: mass compositions (in %) of compositions 1, 2 and 3.

• des mesures Raman par 3 mesures sur 3 zones de l’avant-bras soit 7588 spectres afin d’évaluer l’épaisseur du stratum cornéum ainsi que l’évaluation de son état d’hydratation : eau libre, eau totale, eau liée ;
• des mesures de la capacitance su stratum cornéum (cornéométrie dans les conditions standards) par 4 mesures sur l’avant-bras.

The study of moisturizing effectiveness at 72 hours was demonstrated via:

• Raman measurements by 3 measurements on 3 areas of the forearm, i.e. 7588 spectra in order to evaluate the thickness of the stratum corneum as well as the evaluation of its hydration state: free water, total water, bound water;
• measurements of the capacitance of the stratum corneum (corneometry under standard conditions) by 4 measurements on the forearm.

The evaluation of moisturizing effectiveness was carried out on the forearm. The panelists were recruited according to the following conditions:
- Volunteers with dry to very dry skin;
- Phototype I to III;
- All ages ;
- No cream on the forearm for 48 hours.

Corneometry results:
The measurements show significant hydration by measuring the capacitance of the stratum corneum for compositions 1 to 3 at 72 hours:
Liquid serum: +9.6% of capacitance compared to the untreated control;
Gel Cream: +13.3% of capacitance compared to the untreated control; And
Rich Cream: +18.5% capacitance compared to the untreated control.

Raman measurement results:
The measurements carried out on compositions 1 to 3 show significant hydration by measuring the state of hydration (total water) of the stratum corneum for at 72 hours:
Composition 1: +23.7% hydration compared to the untreated control;
Composition 2: +15.9% hydration compared to the untreated control; And
Composition 3: +16.7% hydration compared to the untreated control.

Example 2: Formulation of a 100-hour moisturizing serum: composition 4

Process for preparing compositions 4 to 7: The aqueous phase (A) is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. The composition is then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature. Materials that are more sensitive (C) to temperature, such as perfume, for example, are introduced during cooling. INCI NAME Phase Comp. 4 (% by mass) Comp. 5 (% by mass) Comp. 6 (% by mass) Comp. 7 (% by mass) AQUA HAS 64.02-86.678 78,008 76.99 75.11 ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF GEL HAS 6-12 10 10 10 DIGLYCERIN HAS 1.5-3 1.5 1.5 1.5 GELLAN GUM HAS 0.2-0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3 GLYCERIN HAS 5-8 8 8 8 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE HAS 0.05-0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 CALCIUM CHLORIDE HAS 0.01-0.4 0.04 0.2 0.1 SODIUM HYALURONATE HAS 0.05-0.1 0.04 0.03 0.04 HYALURONIC ACID HAS 0.05-0.1 0.04 0.03 0.04 1,2-HEPTANEDIOL HAS 0.1-1 1 1 1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL HAS 0.1-1 0.6 0.6 0.6 SCENT VS 0.05-0.5 0.05 0.05 0.05 POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE VS 0.1-2 0.1 0.5 1 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE VS 0.1-2 0.1 0.5 1 CARPOBROTUS EDULIS EXTRACT VS 0.01-5 1 1 1 CITRIC ACID VS 0.001-0.08 0.002 0.05 0.03 SODIUM HYDROXIDE VS 0.001-0.1 0.02 0.05 0.03

Table 2: mass composition (in %) of compositions 4, 5, 6 and 7

Hydration measurements were carried out under standard corneometry conditions on composition 4.

The evaluation of moisturizing effectiveness was carried out on the forearm and ½ legs. The panelists were recruited according to the following conditions:
- Volunteers with normal, dry to very dry skin;
- Women aged 56 to 70;
- No cream on the forearm and ½ thigh for 48 hours.

Corneometry results on 12 cases:
Significant average increase in hydration of 40%, 1 hour after 1 application and 15%, 100 hours after 1 application compared to the untreated control.

Example 3: Improvement of hydration and sensoriality, comparison of composition 4 and composition counter-example 1

Process for preparing the composition counterexample 1: The aqueous phase is heated to 75°C, the ingredients of the aqueous phase (A) are added one by one at this temperature, under a Raynerie deflocculator. The composition is then cooled with slow stirring to room temperature. Materials that are more sensitive (C) to temperature, such as perfume, for example, are introduced during cooling. INCI NAME CE 1 (% by mass) AQUA 61.61 GELLAN GUM 0.4 GLYCERIN 14.0 CALCIUM CHLORIDE 0.04 INOSITOL 0.6 SORBIC ACID 0.1 PANTHENOL 0.5 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 0.2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE 10 METHYLPROPANEDIOL 6.0 DIGLYCERIN 1.0 METHYL GLUCETH-20 2.0 BETAINE 1.0 SCENT 0.05 CARPOBROTUS EDULIS EXTRACT 1.1 HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA WATER 1.1

Table 3: mass composition (in %) composition counterexample 1 (CE1)

Measurement of hydration by corneometry under standard conditions of use at 30 minutes, 24 hours and 48 hours after application of composition CE1, a significant average increase in the hydration index of respectively 64%, 16% is observed. and 12% compared to the untreated control.

Composition 4 according to the invention has better hydration performance over time than composition CE1 not comprising the combination of the hydrating complex according to the invention. Composition 4 allows prolonged hydration lasting 100 hours for a single application, while composition CE1 only allows hydration for 48 hours.

In the new complex we did not need to add betaine which is an ingredient commonly used in cosmetic compositions for its moisturizing properties. The performance of this complex is superior even without its use. It can be added as an excipient to this complex for formulation purposes.

Betaine can bring a stickier sensoriality to facial care formulas. The performance of our betaine-free moisturizing complex has allowed us to reduce the stickiness effect in consumer perception.

A blind consumer test was carried out to evaluate, on the basis of a self-assessment, the cosmetic quality of 2 products: composition 4 and composition CE1.

The inclusion criteria for this test are as follows: 88% women, 12% men, age between 19 and 45 years, all skin types. The panelists applied the product twice daily for 7 days. Category Criteria CE1 Comp. 4 Cosmetic quality Does not stick 73% 80% Cosmetic quality Refreshing 75% 84% Perceived effect My skin is comfortable 83% 91% Perceived effect Provides a surge of hydration 79% 85% Perceived effect Provides sufficient hydration 70% 77% - Which one did you prefer? 32% 51% - Which provides better hydration? 26% 45% - Which do you prefer in terms of sensoriality? 27% 48%

Table 4: self-assessment of panelists (105 people)

In conclusion: The moisturizing performance of composition 4 is better in terms of measured effectiveness (by corneometry), which is confirmed by the perceived effectiveness. In addition, the sensoriality of the product is better: less sticky, more refreshing, preferred by 48% of panelists (vs. 27% for the old one).

Example 4: measurement of hydration on another formulation such as foundation. MIXED NAME CE2 (% by mass) GLYCERIN 5,996 METHYLPROPANEDIOL 5,000 IC 77891 4,943 IC 77499 0.111 IC 77491 0.242 IC 77492 0.704 AQUA 42,712 TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.100 METHYLSILANOL MANNURONATE 0.030 PYRUS MALUS FRUIT EXTRACT 0.176 APHLOIA THEIFORMIS LEAF EXTRACT 0.004 CENTAUREA CYANUS FLOWER WATER 1,100 INOSITOL 0.500 MESEMBRYANTHEMUM CRYSTALLINUM EXTRACT 0.022 XANTHAN GUM 0.300 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 1,000 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 1,000 STEARYL ALCOHOL 2,000 PEG-100 STEARATE 2,000 STEARIC ACID 1,500 PALMITIC ACID 1,000 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.800 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE 5,000 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 4,500 HOMOSALATE 5,000 OCTOCRYLENE 5,000 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 2,000 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.700 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.200 SESAMUM INDICUUM SEED OIL 2,000 AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER 0.200 RETINYL PALMITATE 0.055 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 0.045 ETHYL LINOLEATE 0.200 SCENT 0.500 ALCOHOL 2,820 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.040 TALC 0.500

Table 5: mass composition (in %) composition counterexample 2 (CE2)

Measurement of hydration by corneometry under standard conditions of use at 15 minutes, and 24 hours after application of the CE2 composition, we observe a significant average increase in the hydration index of respectively 55% and 12% compared to to the untreated area.

Composition 4 according to the invention has better hydration performance over time than composition CE2 not comprising the combination of the moisturizing complex according to the invention. Composition 4 allows prolonged hydration lasting 100 hours (+15% hydration compared to the untreated area) for a single application, while composition CE2 only allows hydration for 24 hours (+12 % hydration compared to the untreated area).

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, preferably in the form of sodium salt, glycerin, diglycerin, gellan gum and aloe gel vera. Composition according to claim 1, in which the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in a range ranging from 3,000 Da to 15,000 Da, preferably 10,000 Da. Composition according to claim 1, in which the high molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight in a range ranging from 500,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, preferably 1,000,000 Da. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the aloe vera gel is aqua & aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising water, optionally one or more elements chosen from water-miscible solvents, fatty substances, including oils, UVA and/or UVB filters, surfactants, polyols, gelling agents, emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters, perfumes, dyes, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils and even cosmetic active ingredients. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of foundation, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, gel cream, cream, bi-phase composition or gel. Foundation, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, gel-cream, cream, balm, two-phase composition or gel comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Cosmetic process for caring for, hydrating and/or making up keratin materials, preferably lips, skin and/or hair, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the lips, skin and/or hair at least one cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims on the lips and/or the skin. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims for hydrating keratin materials, preferably the lips, skin and/or hair, preferably for a period of at least 72 hours, and more preferably for 72 hours. at 100 hours. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims to impart a moisturizing effect to a foundation composition, mask, sunscreen, lotion, serum, gel-cream, cream, balm, two-phase composition or gel.