FR3120522A1 - Solid cosmetic composition shaped by three-dimensional printing and comprising a proportion of air - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition shaped by three-dimensional printing and comprising a proportion of air. The composition is heated and is mechanically forced through a die. The extruded material is deposited on a substrate by a robot controlled on three or more axes. The successive deposits make it possible to create a three-dimensional part. The filling of this part obtained by successive deposits is partially hollow. The filling rate, corresponding to the proportion by volume of cosmetic composition relative to the proportion by volume of the shaped part, is between 1% and 99%, the remainder being air. The structure of the fill is made by repeating a fill pattern such as a triangle, hexagon, cube, gyre. The parts thus produced having aerated filling structures present new properties for those skilled in the art and for users. These new properties are due to the presence of air in the cosmetic composition, the increase in the contact surface between the air, the product, possibly water, and the surface to which the cosmetic composition is applied.

Description

Solid cosmetic composition shaped by three-dimensional printing and comprising a proportion of air

The subject of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition shaped by printing in three dimensions. The composition is heated and is mechanically forced through a die. The extruded material is deposited on a substrate by a robot controlled on three or more axes. The successive deposits make it possible to create a three-dimensional part. The filling rate, corresponding to the proportion by volume of cosmetic composition in relation to the volume of the part, is between 1% and 99%, the rest being air. The fill structure is made by repeating a fill pattern such as a triangle, hexagon, square, gyre, parallelepiped, octahedron. The parts thus produced having hollow filling structures have new properties for those skilled in the art and for users.

The innovation presented in this patent aims to offer users of cosmetic products an appearance, a sensory experience on application, and different properties for categories of already existing cosmetic products. Sun products, foundations, lipsticks, care products can, among other things, be shaped by extrusion with different filling rates. The innovation extends the current trend of solid products cast mainly in moulds, and whose structures are solid.

The foaming power of solid cosmetic compositions intended to be rinsed off is thus significantly improved thanks to the increase in the interfaces between water, air and the product. The greasy or sticky sensory aspect of certain solid cosmetic compositions such as body balms and sunscreen products is reduced by the mostly hollow shaping of the parts produced by extrusion. The amount of oil used to produce printed and hollow cosmetic compositions is reduced compared to the amount of oil used for cosmetic compositions poured into molds and solid. This makes it possible to positively affect the sensory of the formulas by reducing the oily sensory.

Patent WO 2018/031405 describes a device for three-dimensional printing of a cosmetic formula. The technical characteristics of the device are claimed there. Obtainable shapes, fill patterns, fill rates, properties of printed cosmetic items are not mentioned there. A cosmetic make-up composition containing pigments is given as an example. The interest and the new properties of the product printed rather than formed with other methods common to those skilled in the art, such as injection into a mold are not discussed there.

Patent WO 2017/102562 describes obtaining a colored cosmetic composition using an inkjet printer. The cosmetic composition consists mainly of powders, the resulting form is a thin surface.

The invention described here consists of the extrusion and deposition on a substrate of a cosmetic composition, in order to obtain a part characterized by a shape, a filling pattern and new properties in use.

Production of parts

The plans of the parts to be produced are drawn up on modeling software. Slicing software is then used to slice the digital model and provide the machine with the information needed by the robot to perform the three-dimensional printing.

Cosmetic compositions are heated in a melter until they become pasty to liquid, allowing them to pass through a die by gravity or under mechanical stress. This mechanical stress can be achieved, for example, by direct pressure on the cosmetic composition with a piston, by overpressure with a compressed air inlet in the melter, by a system of gears, or by an endless screw.

The deposition of the cosmetic composition on the substrate is done by a robot controlled on 3 axes or more. The useful volume is of a size adapted to the part thus produced, of the order of 10 cm in diameter by 10 cm in height.

The deposit of the cosmetic composition can also be done directly in the final container. For example, in the case of a lipstick, the cosmetic composition can be directly printed in the case by starting the printing in the part which is known by those skilled in the art as the cup, and which allows to hold the piece of lipstick in place in the case.

The substrate can be refrigerated to increase the rate of hardening of the deposited cosmetic composition. The space in which the printing is carried out can also be refrigerated.

The compositions thus shaped are then evaluated in terms of hardness, sensory on application, and performance on use. The expression “shaping” as used according to the invention is defined as being the cosmetic composition printed in three dimensions.

Shapes of parts

Extruded parts can show the fill pattern entirely. Parts can also have a shell that partially or completely covers the fill pattern.

The expression "shell" as used according to the invention is defined as an apparent outer surface of the part. This shell is characterized by a thickness depending on the extrusion mode chosen, such as the diameter of the die, or the number of successive deposits used to make the shell. The appearance of the shell, like the color or the mattness, depends on the cosmetic composition used.

Examples of printed parts are shown in , , , , and . The maximum dimensions of these pieces are 10 cm.

The hull can be directly composed of the walls of the filling patterns, as shown in the and .

This shell can be added to the infill pattern for aesthetic reasons, as on the , and .

The part may be completely covered by the shell, but it is preferentially uncovered on the area where the friction is exerted on application.

Filling of parts

The parts produced by extrusion and successive deposition of the cosmetic composition are mostly hollow. The expression “filling rate” as used according to the invention is defined as the proportion by volume of cosmetic composition relative to the proportion by volume of the shaped part. This degree of filling is between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 90%, and in particular between 50% and 70%, the remainder being air. The filling of the parts is carried out with one or more filling patterns.

The expression “filling pattern” as used according to the invention is defined as a hollow geometric shape delimited by walls made of cosmetic composition, this geometric shape being repeated inside the shaped part.

The filling pattern or patterns are chosen according to the proportion of air and desired cosmetic composition, the expected mechanical strength for the part, the desired properties in use, the extrusion time required to produce a part.

An infill pattern is characterized by a wall thickness separating two hollow spaces. This wall thickness is conditioned by the diameter of the die. The geometry of the fill pattern can be for example triangle, hexagon, cube, gyre, square, line as observed in section view. The filling patterns have dimensions comprised between 0.1 mm and 250 mm, preferably between and 1 mm and 150 mm, and in particular between 2.5 mm and 100 mm. The filling patterns repeated at least once can have elongated shapes, such as a block whose two opposite faces have dimensions of the order of mm, while the four remaining faces have dimensions similar to that of the part, of the order of 100 mm. Filling patterns can also be geometric shapes whose dimensions are all of the order of mm, the pattern being repeated at least once within the part in all three dimensions. These patterns repeated in three dimensions within the piece can have hollow geometric shapes such as parallelepipeds, dodecahedrons, octahedrons.

Examples of sections of printed parts showing the fill patterns are shown in , , , , and .

Part fill may not be uniform within the part. This is particularly the case for parts having elongated shapes, such as lipsticks or lip balms cast in the form of sticks. The parts may contain solid parts serving as structural reinforcement, in order to avoid the breakage of the part during use. These can, for example, be solid reinforcements located in the center of the stick, as shown in . These can for example be solid reinforcements located at the level of the contact zone between the part and the container, such as a part of a stick embedded in a cup.

Parts hardnesses

The hardnesses of the parts are evaluated 24 hours after extrusion, so that the cosmetic composition used has completely solidified. The hardnesses are then measured at ambient temperature, approximately 25°C, and at atmospheric pressure using a CT3 Texture Analyzer texturometer equipped with a measuring probe code TA026, type of butter cutting wire. The load is triggered at 1 g, the test speed is 1 mm/s. The results of the measurement make it possible to determine the maximum hardnesses, and to check the homogeneity of the hardness within the section of the parts. The cosmetic compositions and the parts formed from the cosmetic compositions are considered to be solid when the maximum hardness measured is greater than 50 g by following the measurement mode described above. Otherwise, the cosmetic compositions and the parts formed from the cosmetic compositions are considered pasty when the maximum hardness measured is less than 50 g.

Determination of the filling rate

The filling rate of the parts is determined during the creation of the model on software. It is also estimated after production of the part by measuring density. The part is weighed to know its mass. The part is then immersed in graduated laboratory equipment, such as a test tube. The water displacement is measured on the graduations, which makes it possible to estimate the volume of the part. The filling rate is then determined by calculating the fraction of cosmetic composition of known density and the fraction of air of known density (taken as being equal to 1.292 kg.m ^-3 ) making it possible to obtain the same density as that of the piece.

Part stability

The parts are stabilized the day after they are manufactured. Stability studies are carried out at 4°C, 45°C and 55°C. The parts are placed in FALC ICT 120 model incubators. A control is kept at ambient temperature. The parts are then observed and compared at regular weekly intervals. The sensory characteristics and the general appearance of the pieces are compared between the different temperatures. The physico-chemical phenomena that can take place within the different parts are noted by sensory analysis and hardness measurement.

Cosmetic composition

The parts are made from an extruded cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition is solid at temperatures below 55°C, and is pasty to liquid at the extrusion temperature of between 55°C and 120°C. The cosmetic composition is mainly composed of fatty substances in mass proportions of between 5% and 95%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 15% and 50% relative to the total of the ingredients, excluding air . The other ingredients can be, for example, solid powders, or liquids that are immiscible with fatty substances. The fatty substances used are (at atmospheric pressure) oils that are liquid at 20°C, waxes that are solid at 20°C and liquid above 60°C, butters that are solid at 20°C and liquid at temperatures close to that of the skin, above 40°C. At least one fatty substance which is solid at 20° C. has a melting point above 60° C. in the composition. The ingredients and their percentages of introduction into the cosmetic composition are selected to obtain the expected properties of the parts produced.

Oils

The cosmetic composition comprises, according to the embodiments, one or more oils. These oils can be of mineral, synthetic, animal or vegetable origin. The oil content in the cosmetic composition is between 5% and 95%, preferably between 10% and 50%, and in particular between 150% and 30% by mass. The ingredients listed below follow the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). For the convenience of the reader, the INCI is indicated directly, or the common name is indicated followed by the INCI in parentheses.

The oils can be oils of vegetable origin, typically composed of triglycerides. These are for example, but not limited to, almond oil (prunus amygdalus dulcis oil), apricot kernel oil (prunus armeniaca kernel oil), argan oil (argania spinosa oil), avocado oil (persea gratissima oil), baobab oil (adansonia digitata seed oil), camelina oil (camelina sativa seed oil), castor oil (ricinus communis seed oil), coconut oil (cocos nucifera oil), grapeseed oil (vitis vinifera seed oil), hemp seed oil (cannabis sativa seed oil), meadowfoam seed oil (limnanthes alba seed oil), macadamia nut oil (macadamia ternifolia seed oil), oat (avena sativa kernel oil), raspberry seed oil (rubus idaeus seed oil), rose oil (rosa damascena flower oil), sesame seed oil (sesamum indicum seed oil), olive oil (olea europea fruit oil), sunflower oil (helianthus annuus seed extract), hazelnut oil (corylus avellana seed oil). Among the vegetable oils composed of monoesters we can cite jojoba oil (simmondsia chinensis seed oil), and among the vegetable oils composed of hydrocarbons we can cite among others squalene (squalene) which is polyunsaturated and its derivatives, and squalane (squalane) which is saturated.

Oils can be of mineral or synthetic origin. These are for example, but not limited to, paraffin oils (paraffinum liquidum) and their derivatives, hydrogenated polybutenes (hydrogenated polybutene, alkanes of different carbon chain lengths from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, among these- ci isohexadecane, isododecane, C13-15 alkane, C14-22 alkane, C15-19 alkane, C18-21 alkane, C21-28 alkane, C9-12 alkane Linear or cyclic silicone oils as well as their derivatives, such such as caprylyl methicone, dimethicone, methicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, lauryl methicone, lauryl phenylpropyl methicone, cyclomethicone The oils can be branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 5 to 20 carbon atoms, among these Guerbet alcohols such as ethylhexanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol.

Mention may be made, for example, of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters, composed of one or more fatty acids composed of 5 to 22 carbon atoms and of one or more fatty alcohols composed of 3 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acids can comprise one or more acid functions, and the fatty alcohols can comprise one or more alcohol functions. These esters can be of natural origin, be partially of natural origin, or be of synthetic origin. Esters of natural origin are preferred for the invention, given their stability, their ease of formulation, and their good acceptance by consumers. These may be, but are not limited to, isopropyl isostearate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, tridecyl trimellitate, triethylhexyl trimellitate, isoeicosan, isodecyl neopentanoate, lauryl lactate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl behenate, isododecylethylhexanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, diisooctyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, hexyl laurate, coco-caprylate/caprate, cetearyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, cetyl octanoate , tricaprylin, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, cetearyl hexanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, decyl cocoate, diethylhexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl maleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylhexyl cocoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl laurate, isocetyl behenate, isopropyl stearate, isostearyl avocadate, isostearyl avocadate, isocetyl behenate isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl erucate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, oleyl erucate, oleyl oleate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, propanediol dicaprylate, propanediol dicaprylate/caprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate tridecylellitate/caprate, , triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl trilinoleate, trioctyldodecyl citrate.

Solid fatty substances

The substances making it possible to harden the cosmetic composition are waxes, butters and oily gelling agents. They are introduced in mass proportions of between 1% and 99%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 15% and 50% relative to the fatty phase.

Butters are interesting for this application because of their ease of formulation, are very good emollients and positively modify the sensory experience of the parts. They bring hardness to the parts while allowing spreading on the skin facilitated by their melting properties. The origins of the butters that can be used in the invention are for example, but not limited to, shea butter and its derivatives (butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), cocoa butter (theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter) , mango butter (mangifera indica (mango) seed butter), cupuaçu butter (theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), kokum butter (garcinia indica seed butter), mowrah butter (bassia latifolia seed butter), butter of sal (shorea robusta seed butter), murumuru butter (astrocaryum murumuru seed butter), ucuuba butter (virola sebifera nut oil), bacuri butter (platonia insignis seed butter).

Butters from modified vegetable oils can also be used. These are derived from partially hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins, or vegetable oils of all origins mixed with partially or totally hydrogenated vegetable oils of all origins.

Triglycerides reconstituted from different fatty acids can help structure the oily mixture. These triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue and three linear fatty acid residues with carbon chain lengths typically between 12 and 22 carbon atoms such as the following materials: glycerol trilaurate (trilaurin), glycerol trimyristate (trimyristin ), glycerol tripalmitate (tripalmitin), glycerol tristearate (tristearin), glycerol triarachidate (triarachidin), glycerol tribehenate (tribehenin), glycerol trihydroxystearate (trihydroxystearin).

Triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and consist of mixtures of linear fatty acids with carbon chain lengths typically between 10 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used, among these we can cite C10-18 triglycerides (C10- 18 triglycerides) of variable melting points, C18-36 triglycerides (C18-36 triglycerides) of variable melting points.

Monoglycerides or diglycerides that are solid at room temperature and consist of a glycerol molecule esterified with a fatty acid with a carbon chain length typically between 10 and 36 carbon atoms can also be used. Among these may be mentioned, but not limited to, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl behenate.

Surfactants based on glycerol oligomers modified with one or more fatty acids can also be used to harden the compositions. Among these may be mentioned, but not limited to, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate.

Fatty alcohols with carbon chains comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms can also be used to harden the cosmetic composition. Among these can be cited, but not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol.

Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched esters composed of a fatty acid with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a fatty alcohol with a carbon chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms having the physical characteristics of butters can also be used. Among these may be mentioned, but not limited to, esters such as isostearyl behenate, isostearyl hydroxystearate, myristyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate, octylpalmitate, cetylpalmitate, stearyl behenate, behenyl behenate, jojoba esters produced by interesterification of oil of jojoba, hydrogenation of jojoba oil, or a mixture of the two transformations (jojoba esters).

Waxes of vegetable or animal origin can be for example, but not limited to, candelilla wax (euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), carnauba wax (copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax), beeswax (beeswax), sumac wax also called Japanese wax (rhus verniciflua (sumac) peel cera), rice wax (oryza sativa (rice) bran wax), sunflower wax (helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil) , myrica wax (myrica cerifera (bayberry) fruit wax), rose waxes (rosa centifolia flower wax and rosa damascena flower wax), orange wax (citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax). Fats that are solid at room temperature can be obtained from hydrogenated vegetable oils which can be, for example, but not limited to, hydrogenated vegetable oils whose composition is not specified (hydrogenated vegetable oil), argan oil (hydrogenated argania spinosa kernel oil), hydrogenated olive oil (hydrogenated olive oil), hydrogenated coconut oil (hydrogenated coconut oil), hydrogenated apricot kernel oil (hydrogenated oil), hydrogenated canola oil, hydrogenated pistacia vera seed oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated soybean oil ( hydrogenated soybean oil), hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sweet almond oil, hydrogenated castor oil.

Waxes of mineral or synthetic origin can make it possible to structure the cosmetic composition. These waxes can be mineral waxes resulting from the distillation of petroleum and composed of hydrocarbons with branched or linear chains, such as microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline wax), paraffin waxes (paraffin wax). Waxes extracted from lignite or coal or any other sedimentary rock, such as ozokerite wax (ozokerite), lignite wax or Montan wax and their waxes resulting from purification processes such as ceresin wax (paraffin) . Waxes from the Fisher-Tropsch process obtained by catalysis of carbon monoxide and hydrogen such as synthetic waxes and synthetic beeswax. Waxes from the silicone family, such as lauryl phenylisopropyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone, dimethiconol stearate, C26-28 alkyl methicone, C30-45 alkyl methicone.

Other substances making it possible to harden the cosmetic composition are gelling agents of natural or synthetic origin. These gelling agents have the advantage of producing cosmetic compositions with greater degrees of transparency than using waxes or butters. This can be especially useful for producing transparent parts that provide a very attractive visual.

Among these gelling agents which can harden oily mixtures, we can cite polyamides. These can be for example, but not limited to, polyamide-2, polyamide-3, polyamide-4, polyamide-8. These polyamides are usually used as film-forming agents in cosmetics. They also make it possible to obtain gelled oils when used in sufficient proportions by mass, typically greater than 10%. The gelling power depends on the type of polyamide used. Glutamic acid derivatives such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide can also be used to gel the oily phase and provide transparency properties. Hydroxystearic acid can be used to provide a gelled and translucent texture. Dextrin derivatives can also be used, with various sensory effects and different degrees of transparency depending on the carbon chain grafted onto the dextrin biopolymer. Among these we can cite dextrin palmitate (dextrin palmitate), dextrin myristate (dextrin myristate), dextrin palmitate/hexyldecanoate, dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, dextrin isostearate. Stearoyl inulin can also be used to form gels.

It is possible to adjust the hardness of the compositions by introducing into the mixture substances of mineral origin, modified or not, such as clays, silicates and silicas. These clays can be, for example, but not limited to, bentone and its derivatives, hectorite and its derivatives, montmorillonite and its derivatives. The silicates can be for example, but not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium silicate. The silicas can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, fumed silicas (silica) and modified silicas.

UV filters

The cosmetic composition may contain chemical or mineral filters allowing the product to provide sun protection to the user. The filters can be used alone or preferably as a mixture of defined composition. This mixture of defined composition makes it possible, for example, to be able to claim protection performance according to the regulations in force in the geographical areas where the product wishes to be marketed. This concerns in particular the performance in protection in the field of ultraviolet A, called UVA, and in the field of ultraviolet B, called UVB.

The filters used can for example be of mineral origin. Filters can also be of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, in particular certain vegetable oils with sun protection properties.

These filters can be for example, but not limited to, metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as, for example, but not limited to, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole trisiloxane, menthyl anthranilate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, benzodophenone trisiloxane-4, diaminophenone-4 dicamphor , ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, homomenthyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, peg-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine.

In addition to the UV filters that may be contained in the cosmetic composition, certain water-soluble UV filters may be added to the cosmetic composition when it contains a fraction of water. This is the case, for example, of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

Conservatives

The cosmetic composition may contain preservatives, and according to one embodiment preservatives coupled with other molecules having antimicrobial efficacy. This guarantees the safe use of the parts produced. This in particular for parts obtained from cosmetic compositions containing a fraction of water. This is also the case for parts likely to be in prolonged contact with water or in a humid environment, such as parts intended to be used as a cleaner. Among the preservatives used, we can cite glycols, glycerin esters, essential oils, certain plant extracts, peptides, organic acids and their associated salts, certain phospholipids. The glycols can be for example, but not limited to, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol. Glycerin esters can be for example, but not limited to, ethylhexylglycerin, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate. The essential oils can be for example, but not limited to, essential oil of cinnamon, essential oil of cloves, essential oil of eucalyptus, essential oil of lavender, thyme essential oil, rosemary essential oil, tea tree essential oil, lemongrass essential oil. The plant extracts can be, for example, but without being limited thereto, extracts of bark of trees such as aspen or birch, extracts of blackcurrant. The organic acids and their associated salts can be for example, but not limited to, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, p-anisic acid, caprylhydroxamic acid, caprylic acid, levulinic acid, undecylenic acid. Phospholipids can be for example, but not limited to, sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
Additional ingredients that may be part of the composition s

Various ingredients can be added to the compositions to improve their attractiveness, such as perfumes, touch agents, colorants, pigments, and actives.

Perfumes can be of synthetic or natural origin. Among these we can cite essential oils.

Feel-good agents can be fillers making it easier to spread the product through their lubricating properties, or improving the sensory on application and after application, making it possible to limit the stickiness and/or shine of the formulas. These touch agents can be of natural or synthetic origin. Among these we can cite silicas and silica derivatives, plastic particles based on PMMA, Nylon. Cellulose and cellulose derivatives. Starches and starch derivatives. Clays and clay derivatives. Metallic particles or metallic oxides.

The pigments make it possible to bring color to the product and can advantageously make it possible to be able to modify the color of the skin during the application of the product, to produce a good-looking or tanned effect. The pigments can also make it possible to reinforce the action of sun protection by absorbing or reflecting part of the radiation.

The active ingredients can be vitamins and their derivatives, antiseptic and anti-acne molecules, keratolytics, depigmentants, anti-inflammatories, esters of so-called essential mineral salts, oils of animal, vegetable or synthetic origin having benefits for the skin. Plant extracts.

Surfactants

The cosmetic composition may contain surfactants, this is particularly the case for parts intended to be used as solid shampoo, solid conditioner, solid make-up remover.

These are preferably in the form of powders. They can be for example, but not limited to, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, sodium coco-sulfate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, arachidyl/behenyl betainate esylate.

Means of obtaining compositions

Examples

Several representative compositions of the invention are reported below.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) ARACHIDYL/BEHENYL BETAINATE ESYLATE& ARACHIDYL/BEHENYL ALCOHOL HAS 48 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER HAS 20 THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER HAS 5 OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL HAS 14.4 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & COCO-GLUCOSIDE HAS 8 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL HAS 0.1 ZEA MAYS STARCH B 4 SCENT VS 0.5

Table 1 presents a solid hair conditioner cosmetic composition capable of being extruded at 80°C. The Phase A ingredients are heated to 80°C and mixed with a deflocculator blade at 300 rotations per minute (rpm). The phase B starch powder is then added once A is homogeneous, under the same temperature and stirring conditions. The fragrance of phase C is then added under the same conditions. The cosmetic composition obtained is liquid at 80°C and solid at 25°C.

The part made with this solid conditioner composition and a filling rate of between 40 and 80% deposits product more easily during use. The contact surface between warm water and the product is increased. The product melts more under lukewarm water, while remaining hard when dry. Hair is easier to detangle, shinier.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE HAS 25.8 COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA HAS 5 CANDELILLA CERA HAS 29 THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER HAS 3 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE HAS 0.2 CI 77499 B 0.434 CI 77491 B 1,221 CI 77492 B 4,823 CI 77891 B 20,522 ZEA MAYS STARCH B 10

Table 2 presents a solid foundation cosmetic composition capable of being extruded at 80°C. Phase A ingredients are heated to 85°C and mixed with a rotor stator equipped with an emulsion grid at 3000 rotations per minute (rpm). The pigments and starch powder of phase B are then added once A is homogeneous, under the same temperature and stirring conditions. The cosmetic composition obtained is liquid at 80°C and solid at 25°C.

The piece made with this solid foundation composition and a filling rate of between 50 and 70% has an improved sensory on application. The sensory is non-greasy thanks to the proportion of powder incorporated into the cosmetic composition and the air incorporated into the part during extrusion and deposition.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE HAS 21.7 OCTYLDODECANOL HAS 10 OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL HAS 20 COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA HAS 8 CANDELILLA CERA HAS 30 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES HAS 5 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL HAS 0.3 KAOLIN B 5

Table 3 presents a solid body balm cosmetic composition that can be extruded at 75°C. Phase A ingredients are heated to 85°C and mixed with a rotor stator equipped with an emulsion grid at 3000 rotations per minute (rpm). The kaolin powder of phase B is then added once A is homogeneous, under the same temperature and stirring conditions. The cosmetic composition obtained is pasty at 75°C and solid at 25°C.

The piece produced with this composition of solid body balm and a filling rate of between 50 and 70% has an improved sensory experience on application, lightened by reducing the quantity of composition in direct contact with the skin. The quantity of product deposited on the skin is also optimized by adjusting the proportion by mass of the solid fatty substances relative to the liquid fatty substances of the cosmetic composition.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) POLYGLYCERYL-6 STEARATE& POLYGLYCERYL-6 BEHENATE HAS 27.9 GLYCERYL STEARATE HAS 20 CETYL ALCOHOL HAS 6 SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE& COCONUT ACID& SODIUM ISETHIONATE B 40 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE & SODIUM CHLORIDE & AQUA B 5 ZEA MAYS STARCH VS 1 P-ANISIC ACID VS 0.1

Table 4 presents a cosmetic solid shampoo composition that can be extruded at 85°C. Phase A ingredients are heated to 65°C and mixed with a rotor stator fitted with an emulsion screen at 3000 rotations per minute (rpm). The surfactant powders of phase B are then gradually added once A is homogeneous. The temperature is gradually increased to 85°C as the surfactant powders are added. The starch powder and the preservative are then added at 85°C and also with stirring at 3000 rpm. The cosmetic composition obtained is pasty at 85°C and solid at 25°C.

The part made with this solid shampoo composition and a filling rate of between 50 and 70% has an improved foaming power compared to a part made with a filling rate of 100%. The contact surfaces between the water, the product, the air and the keratinous substances are increased, which generates foam more quickly on friction.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE HAS 8.15 COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE HAS 6 RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL HAS 5 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE HAS 0.1 C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES HAS 3 CANDELILLA CERA HAS 31 RICINUS COMMUNIS ROOT EXTRACT& STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE& PROPYLENE CARBONATE HAS 3 CI 77499 B 0.005 CI 77491 B 0.063 CI 77492 B 0.682 TITANIUM DIOXIDE [NANO]& SILICA VS 15 ZINC OXIDE [NANO] VS 15 MICA VS 9

Table 5 presents a cosmetic sunscreen composition that can be extruded at 75°C. Phase A ingredients are heated to 85°C and mixed with a rotor stator equipped with an emulsion screen at 3000 rotations per minute (rpm). The phase B pigment powders are then gradually added once A is homogeneous. The mineral sunscreens and the mica powder are then added at 85° C. and also with stirring at 3000 rpm. The cosmetic composition obtained is liquid at 75°C and solid at 25°C.

The part produced with this composition of solid sunscreen product and a filling rate of between 40 and 80% has a sensory experience on application with less friction, is more powdery, with a mixed oily sensory experience.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE HAS 8.32 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE HAS 8 OCTYLDODECANOL HAS 8 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRABEHENATE HAS 3 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL HAS 3 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE HAS 0.1 COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA HAS 18 CANDELILLA CERA HAS 18 RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL B 25 CI 77499 B 0.16 CI 77491 & CI 77499 B 0.52 CI 77891& ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE B 0.4 RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL & CI 15850 B 2.5 ZEA MAYS STARCH VS 4 MICA VS 1

Table 6 presents a cosmetic lipstick composition capable of being extruded at 75°C. Phase A ingredients are heated to 85°C and mixed with a rotor stator equipped with an emulsion grid at 3000 rotations per minute (rpm). The phase B pigments are then gradually added once A is homogeneous. The starch and mica powders are then added at 85°C with stirring at 3000 rpm. The cosmetic composition obtained is liquid at 70°C and solid at 25°C.

The part produced with this solid lipstick composition and a filling rate of between 30 and 80% has a new sensory experience for the user on application. The incorporation of air in the filling patterns helps to lighten the sensory when rubbing on the lips. It is possible by choosing a filling rate of less than 70% and filling patterns of sizes greater than 100 micrometers to feel the internal structure of the part on the lips.

INCI Phase Composition (% mass) ETHYLCELLULOSE& AQUA& PROPYL GALLATE HAS 8 DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE HAS 7.5 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE HAS 63 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL B 0.1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE VS 7 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE VS 2.5 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE VS 6.9 DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE VS 5

Table 7 presents a cosmetic composition of a transparent sunscreen product that can be extruded at 90°C. The ingredients of phase A are heated to 140°C and mixed with a deflocculator blade at 300 rpm. The antioxidant from phase B and the sunscreens from phase C are then gradually added when A is homogeneous, at 100°C with stirring at 300 rpm. The cosmetic composition obtained is liquid at 90°C and solid at 25°C.

The part produced with this composition of transparent solar product and a filling rate of between 40 and 80% has a new sensory experience for the user. The incorporation of air into the infill patterns helps alleviate the sticky sensory of chemical sunscreens.

Claims (7)

Solid cosmetic composition characterized in that it is obtained by shaping a part obtained by three-dimensional printing by extrusion and successive deposits of a cosmetic composition on a substrate, the hollow filling structure of the part being produced by repetition of a filling pattern which makes it possible to obtain a part whose filling rate corresponding to the proportion by volume of cosmetic composition relative to the volume of the part is between 1% and 99%, preferably between 30% and 90%, and in particular between 50% and 70%, the remainder being air, the cosmetic composition being mainly composed of fatty substances. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized by one or more filling patterns repeated at least once. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, the filling patterns of which have dimensions of between 0.1 mm and 250 mm, preferably between and 1 mm and 150 mm, and in particular between 2.5 mm and 100 mm. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized by a shell, outer surface covering in whole or in part the filling pattern or patterns. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized as being solid and having a defined shape at a temperature below 55°C, and being pasty to liquid at a temperature above 55°C. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the fatty substances are comprised in mass proportions of between 5% and 95%, preferably between 5% and 70%, and in particular between 15% and 50% relative to the total ingredients, excluding air. Shaped cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which at least one fatty substance which is solid at 20°C has a melting point above 60°C.