CN111278424A - Solid anhydrous compositions and uses - Google Patents

Abstract

Solid anhydrous composition, in particular for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising a) at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60 ℃, b) at least one wax derived from C different from a)₆‑C₃₀A wax of a solid linear ester of a fatty acid, c) at least one non-volatile oil, d) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from i) at least one sucroseC₂‑C₆A carboxylic acid ester, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin, or iii) mixtures thereof, and e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle. The solid anhydrous compositions have improved color durability and improved moisturized feel.

Description

Solid anhydrous compositions and uses

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to care and/or make-up compositions for keratin materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method comprising the use of said composition.

The expression "composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean a composition other than a rinse-off cleansing composition.

Background

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips generally comprise one or more fatty substances and are structured with "structuring" or "gelling" agents (conventionally waxes or polymers) in order to improve the rigidity of the composition and in particular to obtain a solid composition, preferably in stick form. These solid compositions remain stable and do not exude (exude) in particular, especially at room temperature.

However, there is still room for improvement in the compositions of the prior art, for example in terms of the feel of moisturization or color retention.

Object of the Invention

Thus, in one aspect, it is necessary to formulate compositions having excellent sensory properties, such as moisturization rather than a sticky feel (dragyssensory).

In another aspect, it is necessary to formulate compositions having good color durability.

In another aspect, it is necessary to formulate a composition that combines all of the benefits described in the preceding aspects.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that a) at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60 ℃, b) at least one wax derived from C different from a)₆-C₃₀A wax of a solid linear ester of a fatty acid, C) at least one non-volatile oil, d) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from i) at least one sucrose C₂-C₆The specific combination of a carboxylic acid ester, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin, or iii) mixtures thereof, and e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle can beSatisfying one or more of the above requirements.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials a composition as described above.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following specification and examples.

Detailed Description

Throughout this specification including the claims, the term "comprising" means that other steps and/or ingredients may be added which do not affect the end result. The products, compositions, methods, and processes of the present invention can include all of the necessary elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.

Throughout this specification including the claims, the term "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

As used herein throughout this specification, including the claims, the term "about" means within 10% of the stated value (e.g., "about 10%" means 9% -11%, "about 2%" means 1.8% -2.2%).

The term "solid" means having a hardness greater than or equal to 30 Nm at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) when measured according to the protocol described below^-1The composition of (1).

The compositions whose hardness is to be determined are stored at 20 ℃ for 24 hours before the measurement.

The hardness can be measured at 20 ℃ by the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting the bar, which is preferably a cylinder, transversely by moving a tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm at a speed of 100 mm/min relative to the product bar.

Measured in Nm using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Inpelco-Chatillon^-1The hardness of the composition of the invention is shown.

This measurement was repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values (denoted Y) read using the tensile tester described above is given in grams. This average is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness was converted into Nm by the following formula^-1：

(Y × 10^-3× 9.8)/L。

For measurements at different temperatures, the bars were stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurements.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a Nm greater than or equal to 40^-1Preferably more than 50 Nm^-1Hardness at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular less than 500 Nm^-1In particular less than 400 Nm^-1And preferably less than 300 Nm^-1Hardness at 20 ℃.

Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value of from 80 to 160, preferably from 100 to 140 gF. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means (support means).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Such small amounts of water may, if appropriate, be provided by the composition ingredients containing residual amounts of water, rather than intentionally.

Preferably, the "keratin materials" according to the invention are the skin and the lips. By "skin" is meant all body skin, including the scalp. The keratin material is also preferably the lips.

The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is the name system provided by International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care products Council for describing Personal Care Ingredients.

The term "permanent (wear)" of a composition as used herein means that the color of the composition remains the same or substantially the same as when applied over a period of time or time as seen by the naked eye. The persistent properties can be assessed by any method known in the art for assessing such properties. For example, the persistence can be assessed by a test involving applying the composition to the lips of a human and assessing the color of the composition after a specified time. For example, the color of the composition may be evaluated immediately after application to the skin or lips, and then these characteristics may be evaluated and compared after a period of time. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

Wax a)

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60 ℃.

Waxes contemplated in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds which are solid at room temperature (25 ℃), have a reversible solid/liquid state change, have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60 ℃ (which may be up to 200 ℃, in particular up to 120 ℃).

The waxes a) according to the invention may be of natural origin, for example of vegetable, animal or mineral origin. It may also be of synthetic origin, or a mixture thereof.

As examples of waxes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of:

waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax (berry wax), shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax (orange wax), lemon wax (lemon wax), ozokerite and hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil;

waxes of synthetic origin, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes obtained by polymerization of ethylene; waxes obtained by fischer-tropsch synthesis (fischer-tropsch waxes) and waxy copolymers and esters thereof; by containing straight or branched chains C₈-C₃₂Aliphatic chains, preferably C₁₆To C₁₈Fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of chain animal or vegetable oils; a silicone wax; a fluorine wax; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the waxes a) of the invention are selected from those of synthetic origin.

Mention may be made of Polyethylene waxes, such as those sold under the trade name Performalene500-L Polyethylene by New Phase Technologies.

Examples of waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis or Fischer-Tropsch waxes which may be mentioned are synthetic waxes such as those sold under the trade name Cirebelle 108 by the company Cirebelle (technical name: paraffin wax).

Mention may also be made of₈-C₃₂Aliphatic chains, preferably C₁₆To C₁₈Fatty acids obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of chain animal or vegetable oils. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of stearic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof. The fatty acids used in the present invention are available under the trade name, e.g. A&E Connock (Perfumery&Cosmetics) Ltd, Emersol sold by Emery Oleochemical LLC, and Palmitic Acid PC sold by Protameen Chemicals, Inc.

Mention may also be made of waxes of this type, for example Phytomax ricin 16L64 from Sophim^®And 22L73^®Those sold under the name obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792190.

By using C₁₂To C₁₈Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of Olive oil esterified with chain fatty alcohols, such as those sold by the company soplim under the trade names phytomax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L 57.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, such as C₃₀-₄₅Alkyl polydimethyl siloxane; and a fluorine wax.

Preferably, the wax a) of the present invention is selected from polyethylene wax, beeswax or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight of wax a), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wax b)

The compositions of the invention comprise at least one compound derived from C₆-C₃₀Waxes of solid linear esters of fatty acids, which differ from waxes a) as described above, to provide good organoleptic propertiesProperties such as a moisturizing feel without stickiness (draggy).

Examples of fatty acids mentioned above are caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and cerotic acid, saturated or unsaturated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the solid linear esters contain a total of from 25 to 36 carbon atoms and have a melting point of from 38 ℃ to 60 ℃. Preferably, the linear ester is said to be solid when all its mass is in a solid crystalline form at room temperature.

The solid linear ester suitable for use in the present invention is preferably selected from stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate (INCI name: myristyl myristate), cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate and cetyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

As the stearyl stearate most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, there can be used, for example, Lipo Chemicals, Liponate^®SS is a product sold under the name of.

According to a preferred embodiment, the wax b) according to the invention is derived from C₁₀-C₂₂Fatty acids and solid linear esters containing from 25 to 36 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the wax b) according to the invention is derived from C₁₂-C₂₀Fatty acids and solid linear esters containing from 28 to 36 carbon atoms. As an example of a mixture of solid linear esters most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of myristic acid/palmitic acid/tetradecyl stearate/hexadecyl/octadecyl palmitate (INCI name: hexadecyl palmitate), for example from Suzhoueleco chemical industry, Inc. under the name OLEM CP^®Sold under the name of Cutina CP manufactured by BASF corporation^®、Cutina CP/MB^®Sold under the name Ercawax CP V/O by ERCA^®、Ercawax CP V/O MB^®Sold under the name of Paester 9104 and sold under the name of Patech Fine Chemicals.

Preferably, the wax b) of the present invention is selected from tetradecyl palmitate, hexadecyl palmitate or mixtures thereof, more preferably hexadecyl palmitate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a solid linear ester content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the waxes a) to b) is from 0.05 to 5. Preferably, the weight ratio of the waxes a) to b) is from 0.5 to 4.

Non-volatile oil

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

"oil" is different from the wax described above in that the oil is at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10)⁵Pa or 760 mmHg) is liquid.

The term "non-volatile oil" means a substance which remains on the keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular has a residence time of less than 10^-3An oil having a vapour pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an amount such that it evaporates after 30 minutes under the conditions specified above of less than 0.07 mg/cm²The evaporation rate of (c).

The oil may be selected from polar oils, non-polar oils or mixtures thereof.

Polar oil

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means a polar oil whose solubility parameter δ at 25 ℃ is defined by its solubility parameter_aIs not 0 (J/cm)³)^1/2The oil of (1).

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, fluoro oils, silicone oils or mixtures thereof. The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that is formed substantially of, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms and does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. Which may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

According to a preferred mode, the composition comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be selected from the list of oils, and mixtures thereof:

- C₁₀-C₂₆alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

more particularly, C₁₀-C₂₆The alcohol is saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight chain, and contains 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

Preferably, C₁₀-C₂₆The alcohol is an aliphatic alcohol which is preferably branched when it contains at least 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or natural origin, such as alcohols derived from plant materials (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.).

Needless to say, other long chain alcohols, such as ether alcohols or "Guerbet" alcohols, may also be used.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for example coconut oil alcohol (C)₁₂To C₁₆) Or tallow alcohol (C)₁₆To C₁₈) Or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type.

Fatty alcohols containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferably used.

As specific examples of fatty alcohols which can be preferably used, mention may be made in particular of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol, such as that sold under the trade name Eutanol G by BASF^®The product is sold.

- C₂-C₈Monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated monoesters of alcoholsDi-or tri-esters

In particular:

* C₂-C₈carboxylic acid and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated monoesters of alcohols,

* C₂-C₈dicarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated diesters of alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisooctadecyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,

* C₂-C₈tricarboxylic acids and C₂-C₈Optionally hydroxylated triesters of alcohols, such as citric acid esters, for example trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate,

- C₂-C₈polyhydric alcohol and one or more C₂-C₈Esters of carboxylic acids, such as diol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or diol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.

-ester oils, in particular ester oils containing at least 18 carbon atoms, even more in particular from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

Examples which may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.

Ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated.

The non-volatile ester oil may for example be selected from:

monoesters comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, more particularly containing a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular of formula R₁COOR₂Wherein R is₁Represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, which is in particular branched, with the proviso that the group R₁And R₂Has a total number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 18, such as Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoic acid C₁₂To C₁₅Alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl dodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearateEsters, benzoic acid C₁₂-C₁₅Alkyl esters such as 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, caprylate, caprate or ricinoleate of an alcohol or polyol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, they are of the formula R₁COOR₂In which R is₁Represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R₂Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, which is in particular branched, R₁And R₂Such that the radical R₁And R₂The sum of carbon atoms of (a) is greater than or equal to 18.

Even more particularly, the ester contains a total of 18 to 40 carbon atoms.

Preferred monoesters which may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl pivalate;

fatty acids, in particular fatty acids containing at least 18 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, especially lanolin acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or monoesters of stearic acid and a glycol, for example propylene glycol monoisostearate.

Diesters containing in particular at least 18 carbon atoms, more in particular a total of from 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular a total of from 18 to 50 carbon atoms. In particular, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and of monoalcohols, such as diisostearyl malate, preferably diol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglycerol-2 diisostearate (in particular, such as the compounds sold under the trade name Dermol DGDIS by the company Akzo);

hydroxylated mono-and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbons of at least 18 carbon atoms, more particularly from 18 to 70, such as polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl stearate;

triesters containing in particular at least 35 carbon atoms, more in particular a total of from 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as in particular triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as triisooctadecyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

tetraesters containing in particular at least 35 carbon atoms, more in particular having a total carbon number of from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of monocarboxylic acids, for example pentaerythritol tetrapelargonate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, glycerol tri (2-decyl) tetradecanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythritol tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate;

polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diols, such as those described in patent application FR 0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1, 4-butanediol. Mention may be made in this connection, inter alia, of the polymers sold by biosynths under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic/butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA;

esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono-or dicarboxylic acid, such as dimer diol and dimer fatty acid, and dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid, which may be derived in particular from unsaturated fatty acids, especially C₈To C₃₄In particular C₁₂To C₂₂In particular C₁₆To C₂₀More particularly C₁₈Of unsaturated fatty acids, such as dilinoleic acid and esters of dilinoleic glycol dimers, for example under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 from Nippon Fine Chemical^®And DD-DA7^®Those sold;

polyesters derived from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of a hydroxylated carboxylic acid with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, such as succinic acid and castor oil isostearate sold by Zenitech under the designation Zenigloss;

hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils, such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), in particular containing at least 7 carbon atoms, more particularly containingFatty acid triglycerides of fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may in particular be made of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof, for example the product sold by Cognis under the designation Myrinol 318, triheptanoin, tricaprylin and C_18-36Acid triglycerides, such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by St é arineries Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, sandalwood seed oil (ximenia oil) or baccara oil (pracoxi oil);

vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as GanexV 216) by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol);

- C₁₂-C₂₆fatty acids, preferably C₁₂-C₂₂Fatty acids, which are preferably unsaturated, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, e.g. Cognis in Cetiol CC^®Dioctyl carbonate sold under the name;

-or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based polar oil according to the invention is selected from C₁₀-C₂₆Alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, ester oils, especially ester oils containing at least 18 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 18 to 70 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the hydrocarbon-based polar oil of the invention is selected from C₁₂-C₂₂Alcohols, especially diesters containing at least 18 carbon atoms, even more especially containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is selected from diisooctadecyl malate (for example under the name Schercemol from Lubrizol corporation^™Sold by Dism Ester), octyldodecanol (e.g., Eutanol from ABSF, Inc.)^®G) Or mixtures thereof.

Apolar oil

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" is intended to mean an oil which is present inSolubility parameter delta a at 25 ℃ equal to 0 (J/cm)³)^1/2The oil of (1).

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in The Hansen three-dimensional solubility space is described in The C.M. Hansen article, "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J.Point technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- δ_Dcharacterizing the London dispersion force resulting from dipole formation induced during molecular collisions;

- δ p characterizes the Debye interaction between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction between induced and permanent dipoles;

δ h characterizes specific interaction forces (e.g. hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and is

δ a has been replaced by formula δ a = (δ p + δ h)^½And (4) determining.

Parameters δ p, δ h, δ D and δ a in (J/cm)³)^½And (4) showing.

Since the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is non-polar, the compound then contains no oxygen, nitrogen atoms.

The non-volatile apolar oil is more preferably a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils may preferably be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

-liquid paraffin or a derivative thereof,

-squalane, which is a mixture of squalane,

-an isoeicosane, a mixture of isoeicosane,

-a liquid petrolatum,

-a naphthalene oil,

polybutenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Ineos,

hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil falls^®Panalane H-300E sold or manufactured by Amoco Inc. (MW = 1340 g @)mol), Viseal 20000 (MW =6000 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Synteal, and Rewopal PIB 1000 (MW = 1000 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Witco,

-decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example: puresyn 10 (MW =723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals,

-and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-volatile oil of the present invention is polybutene. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, hydrocarbon-based non-polar oils or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based mono-or di-esters of carboxylic acid residues containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms and of alcohol residues representing a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic alcohols containing from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, polybutenes or mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the non-volatile oil is selected from diisooctadecyl malate, polybutene, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimerate linoleate or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the at least one non-volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Essential oils

Although this does not represent a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil as an additional oil.

Such volatile oils may be, in particular, hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil which evaporates in less than 1 hour on contact with keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Volatile organic solvents and volatilisation of the inventionThe oil is liquid at room temperature, has a specific pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 Pa) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure^-3To 300 mmHg), particularly from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils or mixtures thereof.

In particular, volatile oils that may be mentioned include volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular having a flash point of less than or equal to 80 ℃ (flash point measured in particular according to ISO Standard 3679), such as hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular:

-branched C₈-C₁₄Alkanes, e.g. C of petroleum origin₈-C₁₄Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and oils such as those sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,

linear alkanes, such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof sold by Sasol under the designations Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively, undecane-tridecane mixtures, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

As other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular as volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point of less than or equal to 80 ℃, mention may also be made of ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (containing a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols, especially straight-chain or branched lower monoalcohols containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

Advantageously, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight, better still less than 2% by weight of volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition is preferably free of volatile oils.

Film-forming polymers

The term "film-forming polymer" as used herein refers to a polymer or resin that leaves a film on a substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent associated with the film-forming polymer has evaporated, absorbed into, and/or dissipated on the substrate.

According to the invention, the at least one film-forming polymer is chosen from i) at least one sucrose C₂-C₆A carboxylic acid ester, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin or iii) mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the at least one film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sucrose carboxylate

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one sucrose C₂-C₆Carboxylic acid esters to improve the persistence of the color.

More particularly, this sucrose C₂-C₆The carboxylic acid ester is selected from the group consisting of mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, particularly sucrose diacetate-hexa (2-methylpropionate), such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food GradeKosher by Eastman Chemical company (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate).

Advantageously, the composition of the invention may comprise, if used alone or as part of the at least one film-forming polymer, from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, of the at least one sucrose C relative to the total weight of the composition₂-C₆A carboxylic acid ester.

More particularly, the at least one sucrose C₂-C₆The carboxylic acid ester is present in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt. -%, preferably 5 to 15 wt. -%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming silicone resins

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming silicone resin. This film-forming silicone resin or resins make it possible to improve the staying power and to obtain all the surprising effects mentioned above.

In general, the term "resin" refers to a three-dimensional structure.

The at least one film-forming silicone resin used in the composition of the invention may be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.

In one embodiment, the film-forming silicone resin is selected from silsesquioxanes, siloxysilicates (siloxysilicates) and resins obtained by hydroxysilylation (hydrosillation).

The use of silicone polymers or derivatives thereof as film formers in cosmetic compositions is known in the art: see, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,965,112, 5,800,816, 5,911,974 and 5,959,009. However, the combination of such resins with the specific polymers according to the invention is neither described nor suggested in the prior art. In view of the prior art, it is completely unthinkable that such a combination may bring about a surprising improvement in the properties of the deposit obtained from a cosmetic composition comprising such a combination, in particular endurance and possibly non-transferability.

The nomenclature of silicone resins (also known as silicone resins) is known in the art under the name "MDTQ" nomenclature, which describes the resin in terms of the various siloxane monomer units it contains, each "MDTQ" characterizing a class of units.

The letter "M" represents a compound of the formula R1R2R3SiO_1/2A silicon atom is attached to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter "D" denotes the difunctional unit R1R2SiO_2/2Wherein the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter "T" represents a SiO of the formula R1_3/2A trifunctional unit of (a).

Such resins are described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", volume 15, Johnad Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), page 265 and 270 and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

In the previously defined units M, D and T, R, i.e. R1, R2 and R3, respectively represent a hydrocarbyl (especially alkyl) group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter "Q" refers to tetrafunctional SiO_4/2A unit in which a silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the remainder of the polymer.

From these different units, a variety of silicone resins of different nature can be obtained, the nature of these polymers being a function of the type of monomer (or unit), of the nature and number of the radicals R, of the length of the polymer chain, of the degree of branching and of the size of the side chains.

As silicone resins that can be used in the first composition according to the invention, mention may be made of silicone resins of MQ type, T type or MQT type.

According to a preferred embodiment, MQ resins are used.

MQ resin

As an example of silicone resins of the MQ type, mention may be made of the formula [ (R1)₃SiO_1/2]_x(SiO_4/2)_y(MQ units) where x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a group as defined above and is preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.

As an example of silicone resins of MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, mention may be made of the Momentive Material company under the reference SR^®1000. Those sold under the designation TMS 803 by Wacker, KF-7312J by Shin-Etsu, or DC 749, DC 593 by Dow Corning.

As silicone resins containing MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshire 151 sold by General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,302.

Resin T

As examples of silicone resins of the type T, mention may be made of the formula (RSiO)_3/2)_x(T unit) wherein x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which polysilsesquioxane may also contain Si-OH end groups.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be preferably used, for example:

the company Wacker has the designation Resin MK, such as those sold by Belsil PMS MK: comprising a repeating unit CH₃SiO_3/2(T unit) also containing up to 1% by weight of (CH)₃)₂SiO_2/2A unit (unit D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g/mol, or

Those sold under the reference KR 220L by the company SHIN-ETSU, which is of the formula CH₃SiO_3/2And having SiOH (silanol) end groups; those sold under the designation KR-242A, which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups, or those sold under the name KR 251, which comprise 88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and have Si-OH end groups.

MQT resins

As resins containing MQT units, those cited in the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,110,890 are particularly known.

A preferred form of MQT resin is MQT-propyl resin (also known as MQTpr). Such resins that can be used in the first composition used according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:

(I) (R1₃SiO_1/2)_a

(II) (R2₂SiO_2/2)_b

(III) (R3SiO_{3 / 2})_cand

(IV) (SiO_4/2)_d

wherein

R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbon group (in particular an alkyl group) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

a is 0.05 to 0.5,

b is a number from 0 to 0.3,

c is greater than 0, and c is greater than 0,

d is from 0.05 to 0.6,

a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d are mole fractions,

provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the silicone resin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the silicone resin comprises the following units:

(I) (R1₃SiO_1/2)_a

(III) (R3SiO_3/2)_cand are and

(IV) (SiO_4/2)_d

wherein

R1 and R3 independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 is preferably methyl and R3 is preferably propyl,

a is from 0.05 to 0.5, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4,

c is greater than 0, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4,

d is from 0.05 to 0.6, preferably from 0.2 to 0.6, or from 0.2 to 0.55,

a + c + d = 1, and a, c and d are mole fractions,

provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the silicone resin are propyl groups.

The silicone resins useful in the compositions according to the invention may be obtained by a process comprising reacting:

A) comprising at least 80 mol% of (R1)₃SiO_1/2)_aAnd (SiO)_4/2)_dThe MQ resin of (1) above,

r1 represents an alkyl, aryl, carbinol (carbamate group) or amino group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms,

a and d are greater than 0 and,

the ratio a/d is from 0.5 to 1.5;

and

B) comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3 SiO)_3/2)_cThe propyl group of (a) of (b),

r3 represents an alkyl, aryl, carbinol or amino group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms,

c is greater than 0, and c is greater than 0,

with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl,

wherein the mass ratio A/B is 95:5 to 15:85, and the mass ratio A/B is preferably 30: 70.

Advantageously, the weight ratio A/B is from 95:5 to 15: 85. Preferably, the A/B ratio is less than or equal to 70: 30.

Preferably, therefore, the silicone resin is chosen from:

A) MQ type resins, especially selected from (i) alkylsiloxysilicates, which may be of the formula [ (R1)₃SiO_1/2]_x(SiO_4/2)_yWherein x and y are integers from 50 to 80 and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, and/or

B) T-type resin, in particular selected from the group consisting of resins of the formula (RSiO)_3/2)_xWherein x is greater than 100 and the group R is an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, the polysilsesquioxane may further comprise Si-OH end groups, and/or

C) MQT-type resins, in particular of the MQT-propyl type, which may contain the unit (i) (R1)₃SiO_1/2)_a、(ii)(R2₂SiO_2/2)_b、 (iii) (R3SiO_3/2)_cAnd (iv) SiO_4/2)_dWherein R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrocarbon group, in particular an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

a is 0.05 to 0.5,

b is a number from 0 to 0.3,

c is greater than 0, and c is greater than 0,

d is from 0.05 to 0.6,

a + b + c + d = 1, a, b, c and d are mole fractions,

provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the silicone resin are propyl groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, the film-forming silicone resin is an MQ resin, in particular selected from (i) alkylsiloxysilicates as disclosed above.

More particularly, the at least one film-forming silicone resin is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

The composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel processes in a liquid medium, followed by drying, usually by supercritical fluid extraction, the most common supercritical fluid being supercritical CO₂. This type of drying avoids porosity and material shrinkage. The Sol-Gel method and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have 500 to 1500 m²G, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²G, preferably 600 to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (S)/g_M) And a volume mean diameter (D [0.5] of 1 to 1500 [ mu ] m, preferably 1 to 1000 [ mu ] m, preferably 1 to 100 [ mu ] m, in particular 1 to 30 [ mu ] m, more preferably 5 to 25 [ mu ] m, better still 5 to 20 [ mu ] m, still better still 5 to 15 [ mu ] m]) The indicated dimensions.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as a volume mean diameter (D [0.5 ]) of from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm, still better still from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by The nitrogen absorption method known as The BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in The Journal of The American Chemical Society, volume 60, page 309, month 2 1938 and corresponding to The International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles involved.

The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer model 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. Data were processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory of being exact for isotropic particles allows the determination of the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication "Light carving by Small Particles", by Van de Hulst, h.c., chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, new york, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the invention have a particle size of 600 to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (S)/g_M) And a volume mean diameter (D [0.5 ]) of from 5 to 20 [ mu ] m, preferably from 5 to 15 [ mu ] m]) The indicated dimensions.

The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a density of 0.02 g/cm³To 0.10 g/cm³Preferably 0.03 g/cm³To 0.08 g/cm³In particular 0.05 g/cm³To 0.08 g/cm³Tap density ρ of (d).

In the context of the present invention, such densities can be evaluated according to the following scheme, known as the tap density scheme:

pouring 40 g of the powder into a measuring cylinder; the cylinder was then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the cylinder was then subjected to a series of 2500 taps (this was repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive experiments was less than 2%); the final volume Vf of the tapped powder was then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The pass ratio m/Vf (40/Vf in this case) (Vf in cm³Expressed in g) was measured.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a particle size of 5 to 60m²/cm³Preferably 10 to 50 m²/cm³More preferably 15 to 40 m²/cm³Specific surface area per unit volume S of_V。

By the relation: s_V= S_MXrho gives the specific surface area per unit volume, where rho is in g/cm³Indicated tap Density, S_MIs as defined above in m²Specific surface area per unit mass expressed in/g.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption measured at the wet point of from 5 to 18ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g, better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The oil absorption measured at the wet point (designated Wp) corresponds to the amount of oil that has to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the "wet-point" method or the powder oil absorption assay described in standard NF T30-022. Which corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the active surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by the following wet-point measurement:

a quantity of m = 2 grams of the powder was placed on a glass plate and then oil (isononyl isononanoate) was added dropwise. After 4 to 5 drops of oil were added to the powder, mixing was performed using a spatula and the addition of oil was continued until aggregates of oil and powder were formed. From this point, oil was added at a rate of one drop at a time, followed by blade milling of the mixture. The addition of oil was stopped when a compact smooth paste was obtained. This paste must be capable of spreading on a glass plate without cracking or clumping. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used was then recorded.

The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The aerogels used according to the invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silicate).

The term "hydrophobic" refers to any silica whose surface is treated with a silylating agent, for example a halosilane, such as an alkylchlorosilane, a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or a silazane, to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn, for example a trimethylsilyl group.

For the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US 7470725.

Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are preferably used.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made, by way of example, of the aerogels sold by Dow Corning company under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: silica silylate), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and between 600 and 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass of g.

Mention may also be made of Cabot under the designations Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD203, ENOVA^®Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova^®Aerogel sold by Aerogel MT 1200.

Aerogels sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning are preferably used, the particles of which have an average size of 5 to 15 μm and a particle size of 600 to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass of g.

Preferably, the at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the solid anhydrous composition, in particular for care and/or make-up of keratin materials, comprises from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one wax a) selected from polyethylene waxes, beeswax or a mixture thereof; 0.5 to 20 wt%, preferably 1 to 10 wt% cetyl palmitate; 3 to 80% by weight, preferably 5 to 60% by weight, of at least one non-volatile oil selected from diisostearyl malate, polybutene, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimerate linoleate or mixtures thereof; 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 5 to 15 wt% of at least one film forming polymer selected from sucrose acetate isobutyrate, trimethylsiloxysilicate or a mixture thereof; 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, of at least one hydrophobic silylated silica aerogel particles.

Dye material

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dye, in particular at least one pulverulent dye. The dyes according to the invention are different from fillers. The dyes are chosen in particular from organic or inorganic dyes, such as in particular pigments or nacres (nacre) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with specific optical effects, and mixtures thereof.

The pulverulent dyes are chosen in particular from organic or inorganic pulverulent dyes, especially of the pigment or nacreous type, materials having a particular optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the pulverulent dyes are chosen from pigments and nacres and mixtures thereof.

Pigment (I)

The term "pigment" is understood to mean a white or colored, inorganic or organic particle that is insoluble in aqueous solutions and is intended to color and/or opacify the corresponding composition.

Examples of such dyes which may be mentioned include more particularly mineral pigments such as titanium oxide and iron oxide, water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants, for example Sudan Red, β -carotene, beetroot juice, the disodium salt of ponceau Red, the disodium salt of alizarin Green, quinoline Yellow, DC Red number 7, DC Green number 6, DC Yellow number 11, DC Violet number 2, DC Orange number 5, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, lutein, canthaxanthin, carmine, erythrosine, indigo blue and riboflavin.

Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent (irridescent) or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. The pigments may optionally be surface treated within the scope of the present invention, but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorochemicals, lecithin and amino acids.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, encoded in the Color Index under the designation CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides coded under the reference numbers CI 77,499, 77,492 and 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and ferric blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D & C Red number 19(CI 45,170), D & C Red number 9(CI 15,585), D & C Red number 21 (CI45,380), D & C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Orange number 5 (CI45,370), D & C Red number 27 (CI45,410), D & C number 13 (CI 15,630), D & C Red number 7 (CI 15,850), D & C Red number 6 (CI 15,850), D & C Yellow number 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Red number 36 (CI 12,085), D & C Orange 10 (CI45,425), D & C Yellow number 6 (CI 15,985), D & C number 30 (CI 73,360), D & C Red 4203 (CI 4204208590), and Blue dye based on CI 8990 or Blue Red FD 36 (CI 42090) Mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-containing titanium mica, iron blue-containing titanium mica, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica containing organic pigments of the aforementioned type and those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.

The precise amount and type of colorant used in the compositions of the present invention will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and will therefore be determined by one skilled in the art of cosmetic formulation.

According to one aspect, the at least one dye is present in the present composition in an amount effective to provide color when applied to a keratin substrate.

Additive agent

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents and oils different from the non-volatile oils listed above, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive commonly used in the field in question, for example selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, fillers, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives (preserving agents), fragrances, neutralizers, antibacterial agents (antistatics), UV screeners, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, colorants and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operation for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the composition according to the invention so as not to thereby influence its desired cosmetic properties and its stability.

Galenic form (Galenic form)

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for use as skin care, make-up or cosmetic treatment products. More particularly, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of color cosmetic products such as lip balms, lipsticks, lip glosses, and the like.

The compositions of the present invention are solids. "solid" is defined as above.

The composition of the invention is anhydrous, which is also as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition considered more particularly according to the invention is solid and in the form of a cast product, obtained by hot casting in a mould and cooling to room temperature by the phenomenon of solidification to solid or by means of a cooling tunnel according to industrially available tools, which are well known to those skilled in the art.

Their texture was thick and similar to that of butter.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of cast products possess organoleptic satisfactory properties, in particular no greasy feel, they allow the user to apply extremely well during application and at the same time do not break when used at high temperatures, such as 37 ℃. Furthermore, cast products of the composition of the invention have an improved aesthetic appearance after long-term storage.

Method and use

The compositions of the invention may generally be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. However, it will be appreciated that the skilled person can select the method of preparation of the composition on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the ingredients used, e.g. the use envisaged for the composition.

According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without thereby limiting its scope.

Examples

The amounts/concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions/formulations described below are expressed in weight% relative to the total weight of each composition/formulation.

I. Preparation of

Formulations A, B and C of the present invention and comparative formulations A, B, C and D were prepared:

chemical or INCI name	Invention A (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Invention B (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Invention C (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Comparison A (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Comparison B (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Comparison C (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)	Comparison D (heavy) Amount% by activity Ingredient meter)
								Polyethylene wax (from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES) PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE®)	8.2	8.2	8.2	8.2	8.2	8.2	8.2
Beeswax (CIRE D from KOSTER KEUNEN' ABEILLE BLANCHE ( GR B 889 )®)	2.3	2.3	2.3	5.5	2.3	2.3	2.3
								Cetyl palmitate (from SUZHOU ELECO) OLEM CP of CHEMICAL INDUSTRY®)	3.2	3.2	3.2	-	3.2	3.2	3.2
Diisostearyl malate (from LUBRIZOL) SCHERCEMOL DISM ESTER®)	Qs to 100	-	-	Qs to 100	-	-	-
								Polybutene (INDOOL H from PAKHOED PRODUCTS) 100®)	8	-	-	8	-	-	-
Neopentyl glycol dicaprate (from NISSHIN OILLIO) ESTEMOL N-01®)	20	-	-	20	-	-	-
								Diisopropyl dimer linoleate (from LUBRIZOL) SCHERCEMOL DID ESTER®)	24	Qs to 100	Qs to 100	24	Qs to 100	Qs to 100	Qs to 100
Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (from EASTMAN CHEMICAL) SUSTANE SAIB FOOD GRADE KOSHER®)	9	10	-	9	-	-	-
								Trimethylsiloxysilicate (from MOMENTIVE) SR 1000 of PERFOMANCE MATERIALS®)	0.01	-	10	0.01	-	-	-
Silylated silica (DOW from DOW CORNING) CORNING VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES ®)	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.6
								Pentaerythritol tetra-di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate (TINOGARD TT from BASF®)	0.05	-	-	0.05	-	-	-
Hydrogenated styrene/methylstyrene/indene copolymers (from EASTMAN CHEMICAL REGALITE R1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN®)	-	-	-	-	9.95	-	-
								Dibehenyl alcohol/isostearyl alcohol/phytosterol dimer linolyl alcohol di Polylinoleate (from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) PLANDOL-G of®)	-	-	-	-	-	9.95	-
Acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymerization Substance (MEXOMERE PAZ from CHIMEX)®)	-	-	-	-	-	-	5
								RED 28 LAKE (SUNCROMA D from SUN)&C RED 28 AL LAKE C14-6623®)	1.65	1.65	1.65	1.65	1.65	1.65	1.65
BLUE 1 LAKE (09901 FD from SENSITINT)&C BLUE # 1 LAKE®)	0.0144	0.0144	0.0144	0.0144	0.0144	0.0144	0.0144
								YELLOW 6 LAKE (SUNCROMA FD from SUN)&C YELLOW 6 AL LAKE C70-5270®)	0.68	0.68	0.68	0.68	0.68	0.68	0.68
RED 7 (UNIPURE RED LC from SENSITINT) 3079 OR®)	0.72	0.72	0.72	0.72	0.72	0.72	0.72
								Titanium dioxide (TIPAQUE from ISHIHARA SANGYO) PF-671 (cosmetic grade)®)	3.70	3.70	3.70	3.70	3.70	3.70	3.70
MICA (MICA CONCORD 1000 from SCIAMA®)	0.11	0.11	0.11	0.11	0.11	0.11	0.11

Comparative formulation a does not contain the inventive wax b), for example cetyl palmitate.

Comparative formulations B to D replaced the film-forming polymer of the invention with other polymers.

The following formulations were prepared according to the following procedure:

mixing all the components in each formula at a temperature of 95 ℃ respectively;

stirring the mixture until uniform;

pouring the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold, leaving the mixture in the mold at 25 ℃ until solidification;

the solid mixture was demolded from the lipstick mold.

Evaluation of inventive and comparative formulations

The formulations of the present invention and comparative formulations were evaluated using the following protocol.

Method for evaluating moisturizing sensation

The moisturizing sensation was evaluated by 6 panelists by applying the above listed formulations to the lips and the comments were made by the panelists.

Method for evaluating color persistence

Each formula was applied to the lips of the panelists. All panelists applied two coats to the upper and lower lips, respectively, and then photographed the lips immediately after application. The panelists were then asked to remain on the lipstick for 2 hours. The lips of the panelists were photographed 2 hours after holding the makeup. By comparing the photographs before and after, the reviewer scored to evaluate the color persistence of each sample (5 for best color persistence, 1 for worst color persistence).

The results obtained are detailed in the table below:

TABLE 1 organoleptic Properties

Properties of

Invention A

Invention B

Invention C

Comparison A

Comparison B

Comparison C

Comparison D

Sense of moisture retention

Excellent and no sticking

Good and no viscosity-lag

Good and no viscosity-lag

Extremely poor (Dry, sticky)

Difference (Dry and sticky)

Difference (Dry and sticky)

Difference (Dry and sticky)

Color durability

5

4

4

5

2

4

2

The formulations A to C according to the invention were also stored at temperatures of 4 ℃, 20 ℃ and 37 ℃ for 2 months. All formulations were stable after 2 months of storage. In addition, they did not bleed out.

Table 1 above shows that the inventive formulations a to C all have improved sensory properties and excellent color durability compared to the comparative formulations a to D.

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present disclosure. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments of the disclosure, but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The previous description is further intended to explain the best mode known of practicing the disclosure and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses disclosed herein. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the disclosure to the form disclosed herein. It is also intended that the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments.

All publications, patents, and patent applications cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference for any and all purposes as if each individual publication, patent, or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of inconsistencies, the present disclosure controls.

Claims (16)

1. Solid anhydrous composition, in particular for care and/or make-up of keratin materials, comprising:

a) at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 60 ℃,

b) at least one compound derived from C different from a)₆-C₃₀Waxes of solid linear esters of fatty acids,

c) at least one non-volatile oil,

d) at least one film-forming polymer selected from i) at least one sucrose C₂-C₆A carboxylic acid ester, ii) at least one film-forming silicone resin, or iii) mixtures thereof, and

e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim 1, in which the wax a) is chosen from waxes of natural origin, waxes of synthetic origin or mixtures thereof; preferably selected from beeswax, lanolin wax, insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, and bayberryCandelilla wax, ouricury wax, thatch wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, hydrogenated oils, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and esters thereof, obtained by reacting a compound containing a linear or branched C₈-C₃₂Fatty acids or esters obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils of fatty chains, silicone waxes, fluoro waxes or mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from polyethylene wax, beeswax or mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 2, in which the wax a) is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, in which the wax b) is derived from C₁₀-C₂₂Solid linear esters of fatty acids and containing from 25 to 36 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof, preferably derived from C₁₂-C₂₀A solid linear ester of a fatty acid and containing from 28 to 34 carbon atoms or a mixture thereof, preferably selected from tetradecyl myristate, tetradecyl palmitate, tetradecyl stearate, hexadecyl myristate, hexadecyl palmitate, hexadecyl stearate, octadecyl myristate, octadecyl palmitate, octadecyl stearate or mixtures thereof; preferably selected from myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or mixtures thereof, more preferably cetyl palmitate.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, in which the wax b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one wax a) to the at least one wax b) is from 0.05 to 5, preferably from 0.5 to 4.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein said at least one non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, hydrocarbon-based apolar oils or mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from C₁₀-C₂₆An alcohol, preferably a mono-alcohol, an ester oil, in particular an ester oil containing at least 18 carbon atoms, even more in particular 18 to 70 carbon atoms, polybutene or a mixture thereof, more preferably selected from C₁₂-C₂₂Alcohols, especially diesters containing at least 18 carbon atoms, more especially containing a total of 18 to 60 carbon atoms, polybutenes or mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from diisooctadecyl malate, polybutene, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimerate linoleate or mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, in which the at least one non-volatile oil is present in an amount ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein said at least one sucrose C₂-C₆The carboxylic acid ester is selected from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, in particular sucrose diacetate hexa (2-methylpropionate), preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the at least one film-forming silicone resin is selected from MQ resins, preferably of formula [ (R1)₃SiO_1/2]_x(SiO_4/2)_yWherein x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl group.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the at least one film-forming polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a particle size ranging from 500 to 1500 m²G, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²G, preferably 600 to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (S)/g_M) And a volume mean diameter (D [0.5] of 1 to 1500 [ mu ] m, preferably 1 to 1000 [ mu ] m, more preferably 1 to 100 [ mu ] m, in particular 1 to 30 [ mu ] m, more preferably 5 to 25 [ mu ] m, better still 5 to 20 [ mu ] m, still better still 5 to 15 [ mu ] m]) The indicated sizes, and an oil absorption measured at the wet point of from 5 to 18ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g, better still from 8 to 12 ml/g of particles.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, in which the at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is a silylated silica aerogel particle.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, in which the at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel particle is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, comprising from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one wax a) chosen from polyethylene waxes, beeswax or a mixture thereof; 0.5 to 20 wt%, preferably 1 to 10 wt% cetyl palmitate; 3 to 80% by weight, preferably 5 to 60% by weight, of at least one non-volatile oil selected from diisostearyl malate, polybutene, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimerate linoleate or mixtures thereof; 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 5 to 15 wt% of at least one film forming polymer selected from sucrose acetate isobutyrate, trimethylsiloxysilicate or a mixture thereof; 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, of at least one hydrophobic silylated silica aerogel particles.

16. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 15.