JP2015520116A - Cosmetic composition comprising non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil and non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar oil, non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil, and dextrin ester - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety or a mixture thereof in a total of 20% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a total weight of the composition A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar oil or mixture thereof, and a total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or to the total weight of the composition or The mass ratio of the mixture to (total amount of non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil to total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, more preferably the total mass of non-volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9. A) composition for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least an ester of dextrin.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, and more particularly, at least one hydrocarbon-based resin, hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, non-volatile phenylated dimethicone oil, non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar oil, non-volatile hydrocarbon The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising a modified polar oil and a dextrin ester.

  The invention also relates to a method of using such a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, the method applying such a cosmetic composition to the skin and / or lips. Process.

  In general, when women use lip product makeup products, especially lipstick or lip gloss types, they find that the product is easy to apply and comfortable on the skin or lips after application. And there is good persistence, specifically no migration, and in particular no color migration or a low amount of color migration.

  It is known to use compositions comprising a shine deposit on the skin or lips and a non-volatile oil to obtain gloss persistence.

French Patent No. 0853634 European Patent No. A-847752 JP 23-20933 US Patent No. 7470725 European Patent No. A-542669 European Patent No. A-787730 European Patent No. A-787731 International Publication No. A-96 / 08537

C.M.Hansen, `` The three dimensional solubility parameters '', J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967) CTFA (6th edition, 1995) Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990 "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Volume 60, 309, February 1938 Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles" Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957

  However, users have a “sticky” sensation during application (hard to apply) and a feeling of dryness on the skin or lips for products incorporating these non-volatile oils. In addition, deposits formed from galenical formulations incorporating such oils in high content have insufficient levels of color transfer resistance.

  Therefore, further improving the cosmetic properties of the composition, in particular application properties such as slip and ease of application, and obtaining a uniform deposit on the lips and / or skin, and especially transfer resistance, especially color It has been sought to obtain deposits on the skin and / or lips that have good transfer resistance. The deposit should also have little or no tack and should have a good level of shine.

  The inventors have unexpectedly found that 20 wt% to 60 wt% non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety, 15 wt% to 30 wt% non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar oil, 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil (the ratio of the total non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil to the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9), and The use of at least dextrin esters in combination makes it possible to overcome this drawback.

  The object of the present invention is to overcome these drawbacks and to be homogeneous and stable (e.g. separation and / or leaching and / or sedimentation of the pigment into two phases, in particular at room temperature and / or 47). Good cosmetic properties (especially application properties such as slip and ease of application, especially on the lips, good adhesion to the support (skin or lips)) And thereby good survivability of the deposits of the composition, in particular no or low amount of color transfer of the deposits, and deposits with little or no stickiness, good levels of shine It is to propose a cosmetic composition capable of providing a certain thing.

Thus, according to one of the aspects of the present invention, the present invention is provided in a physiologically acceptable medium,
-A total of 20% to 60% by weight of the total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
(The total mass ratio of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil / total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9)
-Relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least an ester of dextrin.

  Such a composition is stable and homogeneous, preferably its deposit on the keratinous material and in particular on the lips and / or skin is easy to apply (good slip, homogeneous deposit) and deposit The product is a makeup composition that has good transfer resistance after application (in particular, no or little deposit color transfer, especially on eg drinking cups or glasses). Apart from that, the deposits obtained with such compositions have little or no tackiness and good levels of shine.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, wherein the method is in a physiologically acceptable medium,
-A total of 20% to 60% by weight of the total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
(The mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil to the total amount of non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, more preferably the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9)
Applying at least a composition comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least an ester of dextrin to the skin and / or the lips.

  Advantageously, the composition under investigation according to the invention is an oil-in-oil composition. In the oil-in-oil type composition of the present invention, the non-volatile silicone oil and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil are in a stable oil-in-oil state before application and do not separate from each other. After application, non-volatile silicone oil rises to the surface of the deposit and the separated non-volatile silicone oil covers the adherent layer of non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil. The resulting composition therefore has good transfer resistance and imparts a good level of shine. This separation is further facilitated by rubbing the upper and lower lips again during application.

  Advantageously, the composition under investigation according to the invention is an anhydride.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium For the purposes of the present invention, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” is usually used in a medium suitable for applying the composition to the skin and / or lips, eg a cosmetic composition. It is contemplated to indicate the oil or organic solvent used.

  The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable, tolerance, toxicity and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, and where the composition is conditioned Adapted to different forms.

  As will emerge from the following examples, the combination under consideration by the present invention imparts to the composition a deposit on the skin or lips that simultaneously improves its glossy and color-free properties. Has been found to be most particularly effective. Apart from that, the deposit also exhibits a persistence over time, in particular a deposit color persistence (no embrittlement or fragmentation of the deposit occurs and remains homogeneous) and satisfactory comfort. It exhibits excellent properties when applied (especially slipperiness, disintegration, density and uniformity of the formed sediment, and reduced stickiness upon drying) and when worn (i.e., softness, sticky sensation) Or absence of stringency or dry sensation).

  Beyond that, in the case of lipsticks (solid or liquids such as gloss), this improvement of no color transfer and no stickiness or slight was not obtained at the expense of shine, but shine. Is another property that is commonly explored in this type of makeup product. In particular, contrary to all expectations, the matte effect of cosmetic products containing the combination under investigation according to the invention has not been observed.

The present invention also provides a physiologically acceptable medium,
-A total of 20% to 60% by weight of the total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
(The total mass ratio of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil / total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9)
-At least an ester of dextrin,
It also preferably relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase with at least one colorant.

  The compositions under investigation according to the invention and used in the method according to the invention can be solid or liquid at 20 ° C.

  In a preferred embodiment, especially in the case of compositions intended to care and / or make up the lips, the composition used according to the invention is anhydrous or relative to the total mass of the composition Less than 3% by weight water, preferably less than 1% by weight water.

  The term “anhydride” specifically means that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

  The composition according to the invention and / or the composition used according to the method according to the invention is in the form of a composition for making up the skin and / or lips, in particular for facial or body skin. Well, this is a product for facial gloss such as foundation, face powder, eye shadow, etc .; products for lips such as lipstick, lip care products; concealer products; blusher; eyeliner; lip pencil or eye pencil; body makeup Up product; can be gloss (lip gloss).

  According to an advantageous first embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended to make up the lips, more particularly a lipstick (stick lipstick) or gloss (liquid lipstick).

  Advantageously, the lipstick composition according to the invention is anhydrous.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid” characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 ° C. In particular, the solid compositions according to the invention, at a temperature 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), ^-1 greater hardness 30 Nm, preferably 35 Nm ^-1 greater.

Protocol to measure hardness

  Lipstick sticks are stored at 20 ° C. 24 hours prior to hardness measurement.

  Hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. via the “cheese wire” method, which is a product that is preferably a cylinder by moving the wire at a speed of 100 mm / min with a hard tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 μm. Consisting of cutting the bar horizontally.

The hardness represented by Nm ⁻¹ of the sample of the composition of the present invention is measured using a DFGHS2 tensile tester manufactured by Indelco-Chatillon.

  The measurement is repeated 3 times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the above tensile tester is marked Y and shown as grams. This average is converted to Newton and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance that the wire will pass. In the case of a cylindrical bar, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted to Nm ¹ by the following formula:
(Y × 10 ^-3 × 9.8) / L

  To measure at different temperatures, the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before measurement.

According to this measuring method, the solid compositions according to the present invention, the hardness at 20 ° C. is, 30 Nm ^-1 or more, preferably 35 Nm ^-1 greater, preferably 40 Nm ^-1 greater.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention, in particular, less than hardness 500 Nm ^-1 at 20 ° C., in particular 400Nm less than ^-1, preferably less than 300 Nm ^-1.

In particular, a composition whose hardness is greater than 30 Nm ⁻¹ at 20 ° C. and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is said to be “solid”.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is liquid at 20 ° C.

Protocol for measuring viscosity:
Viscosity measurements are generally performed at 25 ° C. using a Rheomat RM180 equipped with a No. 4 spindle, which is measured 10 minutes after rotation of the spindle in the composition (at this time, viscosity stabilization and Stabilization of the rotation speed of the spindle is observed) and the shear rate is 200 rpm.

  Preferably, the composition has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 2 and 20 Pa.s, preferably between 4 and 17 Pa.s.

  Preferably, the viscosity at 25 ° C. of the composition according to the invention is between 5 and 16 Pa.s.

  The terms “between” and “within” should be understood to include upper and lower values.

  The following examples are given by way of illustration and have no limiting nature.

  The invention also encompasses a cosmetic method for making up and / or caring for the lips, which method comprises at least the step of applying a composition as defined above to the lips.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a volatile oil, preferably a volatile hydrocarbonated oil, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase, more particularly at least one liquid fatty phase.

Nonvolatile Phenylated Silicone Oil Having Dimethicone Part The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone part.

  More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a total of 20% to 60% by weight of non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety in a total of 20% to 60% by weight, preferably 30% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Including.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention of the lipstick or lip gloss type for caring for and / or making up the lips comprises a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety. A total of 20 mass% to 60 mass% can be included with respect to the total mass of the object.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention of the lipstick or lip gloss type for caring for and / or making up the lips comprises a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or a mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone part. The total amount of the composition may be 25 to 55% by mass.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention of the lipstick or lip gloss type for caring for and / or making up the lips comprises a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or a mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone part. The total amount of the composition may be 30 to 50% by mass.

  The term “oil” means a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

  Silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the present invention are non-volatile.

  In particular, the non-volatile silicone oil that can be used in the present invention has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 9 to 800,000 cSt, preferably 600,000 cSt or less, and preferably 500,000 cSt or less. The viscosity of these silicone oils can be measured according to ASTM standard D-445.

The term “non-volatile oil” refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero, less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa), and better still less than 10 ⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). means.

In particular, the non-volatile silicone oil that can be used in the present invention has a viscosity of at least 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s) at 25 ° C., preferably less than 800,000 cSt, preferably from 50 It may be selected from silicone oils that are between 600000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500000 cSt. The viscosity of the silicone oil can be measured according to ASTM standard D-445.

  The expression “phenylated silicone oil” or “phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent. The expression “dimethicone” (INCL name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane moiety (chemical substance name).

  Nonvolatile phenylated silicone oils having at least a dimethicone moiety are also referred to as non-volatile “phenyl dimethicone oils”.

The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety can be selected from:
a) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (IV)

[Wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents —CH ₂ —CH (CH ₃ ) (Ph)].
b) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (V)

(Wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR ′ represents a —OSiMe ₃ group, y ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000. ). Specifically, y and z are numbers such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. Usable are, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone sold in particular under the reference name Belsil PDM1000 by the company Wacker.
c) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (VI), and mixtures thereof

(Where
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based groups;
-m, n, p and q are each independently an integer between 0 and 900, and p is an integer between 1 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is not 0) .

  Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900, better still between 1 and 800. Preferably q is equal to 0.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or cyclic C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably saturated, in particular C _{1 to} C ₁₂ carbonization. a hydrogen-based group, C ₃ -C ₁₆ with particular, and more particularly C ₄ -C _10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ and in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl group, or aralkyl group is there. Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may be particularly the same, more preferably a methyl group.
d) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (VII), and mixtures thereof

(Where
-R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group or an aralkyl group,
R ₃ and R ₄ are, independently of one another, a C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based alkyl group, preferably methyl,
-p is an integer between 1 and 100,
-m and n are, independently of one another, an integer between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100).

Preferably, R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably saturated. , in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based group, specifically from _{C 3 ~C 16, C 4 ~C} 10 and more particularly, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ and in particular C ₁₀ -C _{13 is an} aryl group or an aralkyl group. Preferably, R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. it can.

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ may be particularly the same or may be a methyl group. Preferably, in formula (VII), m = 1 or 2 or 3 and / or n = 0 can be applied.
e) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula and mixtures thereof

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms together or separately, and R ₃ and R ₄ are 1 to 6 together or separately. An alkyl group having a carbon atom, or an aryl group, provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl group,
X is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group or a vinyl group,
n and p are integers greater than or equal to 1 selected to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol, more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol) .
f) as well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the mass average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety according to the present invention ranges from 500 to 10000 g / mol.

  Preferably, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is selected from phenyl dimethicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII):

(Wherein R ₁ to R ₆ , m, n and p are as previously defined).

  A) According to the first embodiment, in formula (VII), m = 0, and n and p are independently an integer between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6 are methyl groups. According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably from diphenyl dimethicone, for example, KF-54 (400 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF54HV (5000 cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Selected from KF-50-300CS (300 cSt), Shin-Etsu Chemical KF-53 (175 cSt), Shin-Etsu KF-50-100CS (100 cSt).

B) According to the second embodiment, in formula (VII), p is between 1 and 100, in formula (VII), the sum m is between 1 and 100, and n = 0 is there. Silicone oil selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone such as Belsil PDM1000 from Wacker is used as the silicone oil of formula (VII) (where n = 0 and R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl groups) It is particularly possible to do.

  Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is selected from: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone [eg Belsil PDM1000 from Wacker (see formula (V) above)], phenyl dimethicone, phenyl Trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone (for example, KF-54 (400cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF54HV (5000cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. KF-53 (175cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-100CS (100cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.].

According to a preferred first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a phenyl silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety, preferably selected from:
-Diphenyl dimethicone, for example KF-54 (400cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF54HV (5000cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., KF-50-300CS (300cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. KF-53 (175cSt) from Co., Ltd., KF-50-100CS (100cSt) from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.,
-Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, for example Belsil PDM1000 from Wacker,
-Trimethylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone,
-As well as mixtures thereof.

  Of the silicone oils mentioned above, it should be noted that phenyl dimethicone silicone oil has been found to be particularly advantageous. They can in particular give a good level of gloss to the deposits made with the composition according to the invention on the skin or lips without causing any sticking and are non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar In connection with oils and non-volatile polar hydrogenated oils, non-transferable deposits can be formed.

Additional non-volatile silicone oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional non-volatile silicone oil different from said non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety.

  Among these additional silicone oils, a distinction can be made between two types of oils depending on whether they contain phenyl or not.

1. Non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil According to a first embodiment, the additional non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenylated silicone oil.

  The expression “non-phenylated silicone oil” or “non-phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent.

  Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane; alkyl dimethicone; vinyl methyl methicone; and optionally modified with fluorinated aliphatic groups, There are also silicones modified with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and / or amine groups.

  According to a first embodiment, the additional non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenylated oil, preferably a polydimethylsiloxane; an alkyl dimethicone; a vinyl methyl methicone; and an optionally fluorinated aliphatic group. Selected from silicones modified with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and / or amine groups.

  The additional non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil is preferably selected from dimethicone oils, preferably selected from polydimethylsiloxane, alkyl dimethicone.

“Dimethicone” (INCL name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
The additional non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oil can be selected from:
-Non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),
-PDMS which is pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain and in which these groups contain alkyl or alkoxy groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, eg commercial reference names from Evonik Goldschmidt Cetyl dimethicone, sold in ABIL WAX9801
-PDMS containing aliphatic and / or aromatic groups or functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and / or amine groups,
A polyalkylmethylsiloxane, for example cetyl dimethicone sold under the commercial reference name ABIL WAX9801 from the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or a polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, for example polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane,
-Polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and / or amine groups,
-Polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains at least one additional non-phenylated linear silicone oil.

  These additional non-volatile non-phenylated linear silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane; alkyl dimethicone; vinyl methyl methicone; and optionally modified with fluorinated aliphatic groups, or hydroxyl groups, thiol groups and And / or selected from silicones modified with functional groups such as amine groups.

  The additional non-phenylated linear silicone oil may in particular be selected from silicones of the formula (I)

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ together or separately are alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R ₃ and R ₄ together or separately are alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, vinyl groups, amine groups or hydroxyl groups;
X is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group or an amine group,
n and p are integers chosen in particular to have a liquid compound whose viscosity at 25 ° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s) and 800,000 cSt ).

Additional non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the present invention can include the following:
-Substituents R _{1 to} R ₆ and X are methyl groups, p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name SE30 by General Electric, the name by Wacker Products sold under the name AK 500,000, products sold under the name Mirasil DM 500000 from Bluestar and products sold under the name Dow Corning200 Fluid500000cSt by Dow Corning,
The substituents R _{1 to} R ₆ and X represent methyl groups, and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 60000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000CS by the company Dow Corning, and Product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM60000 by Wacker,
-The substituents R _{1 to} R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350CS by the company Dow Corning,
-The substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are numbers such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive Product.

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises a polyalkylmethylsiloxane, for example cetyl dimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX9801 from the company Evonik Goldschmidt.

  Preferably, the composition comprises 0.1-10% polyalkylmethylsiloxane, such as cetyl dimethicone.

2. Nonvolatile Phenylated Silicone Oil Without Dimethicone Part According to a variant of the second embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional, non-dimethicone part non-volatile Contains a functional phenylated silicone oil.

  The expression “phenylated silicone oil” or “phenyl silicone oil” means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

Nonvolatile phenylated silicone oils that do not have a dimethicone moiety are selected from:
a) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (I)

(Wherein the R groups independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl). Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least 3 phenyl groups, for example at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups.
b) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (II)

(Wherein the R groups independently of one another represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl). Preferably, in this formula, the organopolysiloxane comprises at least 3 phenyl groups, such as at least 4 or at least 5 phenyl groups. Mixtures of the aforementioned phenylorganopolysiloxanes can be used. Examples that may be mentioned are mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxane.
c) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (III)

(Wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl).

Such phenyl silicone oil is preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. These oils are specifically referred to by Dow Corning under the reference name PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl Tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, manufactured by Pentaphenyltrisiloxane) or sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
d) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (V ')

[Wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR ′ represents —OSiMe ₃ group, y is 0, z ranges between 1 and 1000, and in particular z is a compound It is a number such that (V ′) is a non-volatile oil].

According to the second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Usable are, for example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxanes sold in particular under the reference name Dow Corning556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).
e) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (VIII) and mixtures thereof

(Where
- R independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based group, preferably R is C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl Group or aralkyl group,
-m and n are, independently of one another, an integer between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100).

Preferably, R, independently of one another, is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably saturated, in particular a C _{1 to} C ₁₂ hydrocarbon group. More specifically C ₃ -C ₁₆ , more particularly C ₄ -C ₁₀ , or monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ and especially C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl groups, or aralkyl groups. Preferably, R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. R may be particularly the same or may be a methyl group. Preferably, in the formula (VIII), m = 1, 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 can be applied.

  According to one preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is from 1 to 100. Between 100. Preferably, R is a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, the viscosity at 25 ° C. is between 5 and 1500 mm ² / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably the viscosity is between 5 and 1000 mm ² / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt). A phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) can be used.

  According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably selected from phenyl trimethicone, such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, KF56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., oil diphenylsiloxyphenyl tri Methicone, Oil Silbione 70663V30 (28cSt) from Rhone-Poulenc. The value in parenthesis represents the viscosity at 25 ° C.

According to this embodiment, when n = 0, the silicone oil is preferably DC556 from Dow Corning, and when m and n are between 1 and 100, the silicone oil is preferably Shin-Etsu. KF56A from Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.
f) and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional silicone oil is a phenyl silicone oil that does not have a dimethicone moiety and has the following:
-Phenyltrimesylsiloxytrisiloxane, phenyltrimethicone, eg DC556 from Dow Corning,
-Tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, such as PH-1554HRI or Dow Corning554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning,
-Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, for example KF56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., Oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc,
-Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, such as PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning555 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning,
-And mixtures thereof.

As a preferred additional non-volatile silicone oil different from the non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil, the following silicones can be cited as examples:
A non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having no dimethicone moiety, preferably selected from: tetramethyltetraphenyl trisiloxane (e.g. PH-1554HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning), phenyl trimethicone (e.g. Dow Phenyltrimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Corning), phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilylated 2-phenylethyl, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (e.g. the name Dow by Dow Corning Corning PH-1555HRI Cosmetic fluid sold product) (see formula (III) above), diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (eg KF56A from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.),
-Non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) that is pendant and / or at the end of the silicone, polydimethylsiloxane containing alkyl or alkoxy groups,
-As well as mixtures of these.

  The composition according to the invention comprises additional non-volatile silicone oils, in total, from 0.1% to 80%, in particular from 1% to 70%, preferably 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. To 60% by mass.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise an additional non-volatile silicone oil different from said non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety.

Non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbonated oil (also referred to as a non-polar “hydrocarbon-based” oil).

  More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil with a solubility parameter at 25 ° C., δ _a equal to 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

  The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen 3D solubility space is described in the article “The three dimensional solubility parameters” by C.M. Hansen, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space,
-δ _D is characterized by the London dispersion force resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions,
-δ _p is characterized by the Debye interaction force between the permanent dipoles and the Caesom interaction force between the induced and permanent dipoles,
- [delta] _h is characterized by specific interaction forces (e.g. hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.), and
-δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ² ) ^1/2 .

The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are represented by (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” (or “hydrocarbonized oil” or “hydrocarbon oil”) is formed essentially from or further by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It means an oil that is composed and does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. This may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and / or amide groups.

  These oils can be of plant origin, mineral origin or synthetic origin.

  Preferably, the non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.

Specifically, the non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the following:
-Liquid paraffin or its derivatives,
-Squalane,
-Isoeikosan,
-Naphthalene oil,
-Polybutylene, such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 134 g / mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol, manufactured or sold by Amoco ),
-Polyisobutene,
-Hydrogenated polyisobutylene, for example Parleam (registered trademark) sold by NOF Corporation, Panalane H-300E (MW = 1340 g / mol) manufactured or sold by Amoco, manufactured or sold by Synteal Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g / mol) and Rewopal PIB1000 (MW = 1000 g / mol) manufactured or sold by Witco, or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation instead,
-Decene / butene copolymer, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymer, especially Indopol L-14,
-Polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, e.g. Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) manufactured or sold by Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6, sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,
-As well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous apolar oil, which is preferably polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene and / or hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. Selected from.

  The composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil in a total content ranging from 20% to 30% by weight, preferably from 22% to 28% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Can be included.

  Preferably, the non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil comprises at least hydrogenated polydecene and / or hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably in a total range of 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Contains by content.

  Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least hydrogenated polydecene and / or hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably 20% to 30% by weight, preferably 22% to 28% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Including the total content in the mass% range.

  Preferably, the mass ratio of the total nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to the total non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil is less than 0.9.

  More preferably, the mass ratio of the total nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to the total non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil is 0.8 or less, preferably between 0.25 and 0.8.

  More preferably, the mass ratio of the total nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to the total non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil is comprised between 0.3 and 0.8.

  Preferably, the mass ratio of total non-volatile phenylated dimethicone oil to total non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil is between 0.5 and 1.5.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbonated polar oil The composition according to the invention comprises at least a non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil. More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises a total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25 ° C. is not 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

  These oils can be of plant origin, mineral origin or synthetic origin.

In particular, the additional hydrocarbon-based non-volatile polar oil may be selected from the following oil list and mixtures thereof:
Hydrocarbon hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or jojoba oil,
-Ester oil, preferably selected from:
-Fatty acid esters, in particular those of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular those of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolinic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate Or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate,
Synthetic esters, for example the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ represents 4 to 40 carbon atoms, a hydrocarbon-based chain is particularly branched, however, the oil of R ₁ + a R ₂ ≧ 16), for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ ~ C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoic acid, Decanoic acid or ricinoleic alcohol or polyalcohol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl palmitate Hexyl, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate 2-octyl-decyl, 2-diethylhexyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate or succinic acid; preferably, preferred synthetic esters R ₁ COOR ₂ (wherein, R ₁ is 4 Represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue having 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain having 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular branched, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ ≧ 20),
-Linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol),
-Hydroxylated esters, preferably those having a total carbon number in the range 35-70, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol), isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, malein Diisostearyl acid, glyceryl stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate,
-Esters of aromatic acids with alcohols having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for example tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol),
- branched C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids such as those described in European Patent No. A-0955039, in particular citric acid Torii SOARER Kizil (MW = 1033.76g / mol), tetra isononanaldehyde acid Pentaerisu Lithyl (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol) ), Polyglyceryl tetraisostearate-2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoic acid pentaerythrityl (MW = 1538 g / mol),
An optionally unsaturated polyester obtained by esterifying at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, for example sold under the reference Zenigloss from Zenitech. Succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil,
-Diesters of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as diisostearyl malate,
-Diol dimer and general formula HO-R ¹ -(-OCO-R ² -COO-R ^1- ) _h -OH
(Where
R ¹ represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic acid diacid,
R ² represents a hydrocarbonated dilinoleic acid diacid residue, and
h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9)
Ester of diacid dimer,
In particular, an ester of dilinoleic acid diacid and dilinoleyldiol dimer sold under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 (registered trademark) and DD-DA7 (registered trademark) by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid timers and / or trimers and diols, such as those described in French Patent 0853634, in particular polyesters obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made in this regard of polymers sold under the name Viscoplast 14436H by the company Biosynthis (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, for example Hailuscent. ISDA,
A fatty alcohol having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably branched, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
- C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
-Oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol),
-Fatty acids having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid,
A dialkyl carbonate in which the two alkyl chains are probably identical or different, for example dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis,
-Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW = 7300 g / mol) manufactured or sold by ISP.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil selected from:
-Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, preferably for example vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer,
-Hydroxylated esters, preferably in the range 35-70 total carbons, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl maleate, glyceryl stearate; Preferably selected from diethylene glycol diisononanoate,
-Oils from plant sources, preferably selected from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids,
-Triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate-2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoic acid pentaerythrityl (MW = Branched fatty alcohols or fatty acid C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ esters, preferably selected from 1538 g / mol),
-Diesters such as diisostearyl malate,
-Formula R ₁ COOR _{2 wherein} R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ has 4 to 40 carbon atoms In particular a branched hydrocarbon-based chain, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ ≧ 16)
-And mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil is selected from ester oils, preferably diester oils and / or hydroxylated ester oils, preferably diisostearyl malate.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile polar hydrocarbonated oil in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Contains by content.

  The makeup and / or care cosmetic compositions of the present invention also include a cosmetically acceptable medium that may include conventional ingredients as a function of the intended use of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention also comprises a fatty pasty compound preferably selected from preferably volatile oils such as isododecane and / or esters of petrolatum and / or diol dimers and diacid dimers, and At least one additional compound preferably selected from / or fillers and / or colorants and / or mixtures thereof may also be included.

  Preferably, the mass ratio of total non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to total non-volatile silicone oil is between 0.1 and 2.2, more preferably between 0.1 and 1.5, more preferably between 0.2 and 1. Between.

  More preferably, the mass ratio of the total nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to the total non-volatile silicone oil, preferably the mass ratio to non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil is less than 0.9, preferably between 0.25 and 0.8. And even more preferably between 0.3 and 0.8.

Additional Fat Phase According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional liquid fat in addition to the non-volatile silicone oil, the non-volatile hydrocarbonated nonpolar oil, and the non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil. A phase may be included, which is preferably selected from volatile oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils different from the non-phenylated dimethicone oils described above.

  The additional liquid fatty phase can represent from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention and / or the composition used in the composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 40% by weight of an additional liquid fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. it can.

  More particularly, the composition according to the invention and / or the composition used in the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of an additional liquid fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. Can do.

Volatile oil According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil.

  Thus, the composition under investigation according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more oils that may be specifically selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof. .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oil that can evaporate in less than one hour when contacted with keratin materials at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature, in particular, the vapor pressure ranges from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{−3 to} 300 mmHg), preferably from 1.3 Pa. The range is 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), preferentially 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

  The oil can be of animal origin, plant origin, mineral origin or synthetic origin.

Volatile fluoro oil The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

  The fluoro oils that can be used in the present invention may be selected from fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones described in EP-A-847752, and perfluoro compounds.

  According to the invention, the term “perfluoro compound” means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil according to the invention is selected from perfluoro oils. Examples of perfluoro oils that can be used in the present invention are perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is selected from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, specifically the Fiflow® product sold by the companies Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use a fluoro oil whose INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene and sold under the reference name Fiflow220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

Volatile hydrocarbon oil According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile hydrocarbonated oil such as isododecane and / or isohexadecane.

  Such compounds are compatible with non-volatile hydrocarbonated oils and silicone oils and improve the spreadability during application and the transfer resistance of the deposit.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” (or “hydrocarbonized oil” or “hydrocarbon oil”) is formed essentially from or further from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It means an oil that is composed and does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and / or amide groups.

Volatile hydrocarbon oils are hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched C _{8 to} C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (2,2,4, 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

  Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are also linear volatile alkanes having 7 to 17 carbon atoms, specifically 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more specifically 11 to 13 carbon atoms. There may be. Particular mention may be made of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

  The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from or further composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It is contemplated. It may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and / or amide groups.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least isodecane and / or isohexadecane.

  According to one embodiment, the composition does not contain additional volatile hydrocarbonated oils other than isodecane and / or isohexadecane.

  More particularly, the composition according to the invention contains between 0.1% and 20% by weight of volatile oil, preferably isodecane and / or isohexadecane, based on its total weight.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains between 1% and 15% by weight of volatile oil, preferably isodecane and / or isohexadecane, based on its total weight.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains between 1% and 10% by weight of volatile oil, preferably isodecane and / or isohexadecane, relative to its total weight.

  Other volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents (oils) that can be used in the composition according to the invention include ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (3-8 in total) E.g. ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at room temperature, e.g. diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms A linear or branched lower monoalcohol having the formula: for example ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile oil has a flash point greater than 65 ° C, and better still greater than 80 ° C. An example of such a volatile oil is isohexadecane.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a volatile oil having a flash point of less than 80 ° C., less than 15% by weight, better still less than 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Volatile Silicone Oil According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.

  The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising Si—O groups.

Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention are specifically selected from silicone oils having a viscosity ≦ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / s), preferably greater than 0.5 cSt. Can be done.

  The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular comprising Si—O groups.

  Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention have a flash point in the range of 40 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably a flash point of greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 105 ° C. And selected from silicone oils. Specifically, the flash point is measured according to ISO standard 3679.

  Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

  More specific mention may be made of volatile silicone oils, especially decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, in particular dodeca sold under the name DC-246 by the company Dow Corning. Methylcyclohexasiloxane, especially octamethyltrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1cSt by Dow Corning, especially decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5cSt by Dow Corning , And the name DC-200 Fluid 5cSt, sold by Dow Corning, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and dodecamethyl from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Pentasiloxane, Octyltrimethico , Hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxa or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) , KF96A, and mixtures thereof.

Solid fatty material The composition according to the invention may also preferably comprise at least one solid fatty material selected in particular from waxes and / or pasty fatty materials.

Wax According to a preferred first embodiment, the composition is free of wax or contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of wax, based on the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, according to this embodiment, the composition is liquid at room temperature. In particular, in the case of makeup compositions, for example in the case of makeup compositions for lips, the composition can be lip gloss.

  In a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one wax. According to this embodiment, the amount of wax in the makeup and / or care composition according to the invention is between 0.5% and 30% by weight, in particular between 1% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition. % By weight, or even between 2% and 15% by weight.

  In particular, the presence of a wax is preferred when the composition according to the invention is solid at room temperature. In particular, in the case of makeup compositions, for example the makeup composition for lips, the composition can be a lipstick.

The term “wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible change of state of solid / liquid, has a melting point of 30 ° C. or higher, and is possible up to 200 ° C. . The wax may be selected from waxes of animal origin, plant origin, mineral origin or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof. Particular mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and cinna wax; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, auricully wax, alfalfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, waxy wax and urushi wax; Montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin and ozokerite; polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and esters thereof. Can be further mentioned are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains. Among these, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate can be mentioned in particular. . Further mention may be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes. Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be used.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, in particular a hydrocarbon wax.

Pasty fatty substance According to the first embodiment, the composition does not contain a pasty fatty substance.

  According to a preferred second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. According to this embodiment, preferably the amount of pasty fatty substance in the makeup and / or care composition according to the invention is between 0.5% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Especially between 1% and 50% by weight, or even between 2% and 40% by weight.

  Preferably, the total amount of pasty fatty compounds in the composition according to the invention is between 5% and 30% by weight, in particular between 10% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  The term “pasty”, for the purposes of the present invention, exhibits an anisotropic crystal configuration in the solid state and is accompanied by a reversible change of state of the solid / liquid comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. Is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound.

  The term “pasty compound” is understood within the meaning of the invention to mean a compound whose hardness at 20 ° C. ranges from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

  Hardness is measured by penetrating the probe into a sample of the compound, in particular using a texture analyzer (eg Rheo TA-XT2i) equipped with a 2 mm diameter stainless steel cylinder. The hardness measurement is performed at 20 ° C. in the middle of 5 samples. A cylinder is introduced into each sample at a preliminary speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s with a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The value recorded as hardness is the maximum peak hardness.

  In addition, the pasty compound is in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. In other words, the starting melting point temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. accounts for 9 to 97% by mass of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C. preferably accounts for between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

  The liquid fraction of pasty compound by mass at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C. to the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.

  The melting enthalpy of a pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty compound is “in the solid state” when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty compound is “in a liquid state” when all of its mass is in liquid form.

  The enthalpy of melting of the pasty compound is, for example, 5 ° C per minute according to ISO standard 11357-3, 1999, using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) such as a calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Or equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained with a temperature increase of 10 ° C. The melting enthalpy of a pasty compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid state to a liquid state. This is expressed in J / g.

  The melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C. is the amount of energy that is absorbed by the sample to change from a solid state to a state consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction (this is indicated at 23 ° C.).

  The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is preferably 30% to 100% by weight, preferably 80% to 100% by weight, more preferably 90% to 100% by weight, based on the compound. Occupies%. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is 32 ° C. or less.

  The liquid fraction of pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at 32 ° C to the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound. The melting enthalpy consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ° C.

  The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. Pasty compounds can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin. Particular mention may be made of the following, alone or as a mixture:

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously selected from:
Lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters, such as isopropyl lanolinate, and oxypropylenated lanolin;
-Petrolatum, petrolatum, specifically the product whose INCI name is Petrolatum and sold under the name Ultima White PET USP by Penreco,
-Polyol ether selected from: polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether, fatty alcohol ether of sugar, and mixtures thereof, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether containing 5 oxyethylene (5OE) units (CTFA name: PEG- 5 pentaerythrityl ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether containing 5 oxypropylene (5OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether), and mixtures thereof, more particularly PEG-5 pentaerythritol A mixture of lithyl ether, PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which has a mass composition of 46/46/8 (46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrityl ether, and 8% soybean oil),
-Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
-Polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,
-Vinyl polymers, especially:
Olefin homopolymers and copolymers,
Hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
· C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups preferably have, (meth) alkyl acrylate, linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers,
Vinyl ester oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers having C _{8 to} C ₃₀ alkyl groups,
Vinyl ether oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers having C _{8 to} C ₃₀ alkyl groups,
- one or more C ₂ -C _100, preferably liposoluble polyethers resulting from poly etherification between C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,
-Esters (i.e. pasty fatty substances containing at least one ester function),
-And / or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred among the fat-soluble polyethers are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and C ₆ -C ₃₀ long chain alkylene oxides, more preferably the alkylene of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the copolymer. The mass ratio to oxide is 5:95 to 70:30. Of particular mention in this family are copolymers in which long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks with an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example sold under the trade name Elfacos ST9 by the company Akzo Nobel. Polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymers such as ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45OE).

Preferably, the pasty fatty substance comprises at least one ester functional group. Among the fatty substances of esters, the following are particularly preferred:
-Esters of glycerol oligomers, especially diglycerol esters, specifically condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, where some of the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are stearic acid, capric acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc. Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl-2 adipate sold, for example, under the trade name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,
- vinyl esters homopolymers having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, for example, polyvinyl laurate (sold in particular under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex), and propionic acid sold under the trade name Waxenol801 by Alzo Inc. Arachidyl,
-Phytosterol esters,
Fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, such as triglycerides of fatty acids, which are in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ and are partly or wholly hydrogenated, for example sold by the company Sasol under the name Softisan 100,
-Pentaerythritol ester,
A non-crosslinked polyester obtained from polycondensation of linear or branched C _{4 to} C ₅₀ dicarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with C _{2 to} C ₅₀ diols or polyols,
An aliphatic ester of an ester obtained by esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid has 4 to 30, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, It is selected from octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. Aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters advantageously have 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms, better 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups. Derived from hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acids, preferably having 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and better still 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is selected from:
a) a partial or total ester of a saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid,
b) a partial or total ester of an unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid,
c) a partial or total ester of a saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,
d) a partial or total ester of a saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid,
e) partial esters or total esters of C ₂ -C ₁₆ aliphatic polyol have reacted with monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid,
As well as mixtures thereof,
-Esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, especially dimer dilinoleates, optionally free alcohol functions or acid functions esterified with acid groups or alcohol groups: May be selected in particular from esters having the names: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / dimermarinol dimerlinoleyl phytosteryl (commercially available under the reference names Plandool G and Plandol G7), phytosteryl / isostearyl / stearyl / Dimer linoleate behenyl (Plandol H or Plandol S) and mixtures thereof,
-An ester obtained by reacting a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms with an ester, which comprises dimer acid, dimer diol, and a trivalent or higher polyvalent having 3 to 10 carbon atoms. 0.8 to 1.5 molar equivalents, preferably 0.4 to 0.8, based on 1 molar equivalent of the carboxylic acid groups obtained by reacting with a mixture of dihydric alcohols and remaining in the ester obtained from the mixture of dimer acid and alcohol. It is obtained by using a molar equivalent, more preferably 0.2 to 3.5 molar equivalents of a monohydric alcohol.

  Dimer acid can be obtained by standard industrial methods. More specifically, dimer acids can be obtained by dimerizing unsaturated fatty acids having 11 to 22 carbon atoms, or lower alcohol esters thereof having a clay catalyst or the like. The obtained dimer acid has a dibasic acid having about 36 carbon atoms as a main component, and can contain trimer acid and monomer acid depending on the degree of purification. Dimers derived from plant fats and oils are preferred. For example, PRIPOL 1006, PRIPOL 1009, PRIPOL 1015 and PRIPOL 1025 provided by Croda Inc. and the like can be used as the dimer.

  A dimer diol is more specifically a product having a diol having about 36 carbon atoms as the main component. Dimer diols are obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned dimer acid and / or its lower alcohol ester in the presence of a catalyst to form a diol having about 36 carbon atoms, where the carboxylic acid portion of the dimer acid. Is alcohol. Dimer diols derived from plant fats and oils are preferred. For example, PRIPOL 2033 provided by Croda Inc. can be used.

  The trihydric or higher polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms is preferably selected from glycerol, diglycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, ditrimethylolpropane and dipentaerythritol.

  Monohydric alcohols having 1 to 34 carbon atoms are more particularly linear saturated alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, branched saturated having 8 to 22 carbon atoms Selected from alcohol, cholesterol and phytosterols. Preferably, the monohydric alcohol is a linear saturated monohydric alcohol having 16 or more carbon atoms and is in a paste form. According to another embodiment, the monohydric alcohol is cholesterol or phytosterol. In addition, double bonds remain after the dimerization reaction. Thus, dimer acids can be used in which hydrogenation is further carried out.

Such a product is described in, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 23-20933 proposed under the name of Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
-Mango fats, for example, products sold under the reference name Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn,
-Hydrogenated oils of plant origin, such as hydrogenated isostearic acid castor oil [sold as SALACOS HCIS (VL) from Nissin Oilio Group Ltd.], hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil Mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated mixtures of soybean oil, palm oil, palm oil and rapeseed oil, such as the mixture sold under the name Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name) : Hydrogen compound vegetable oil),
-Shea butter, in particular products whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, for example products sold under the reference name Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn,
-Hydrogenated rosin acid ester, for example dilinoleyl dimer of hydrogenated rosin acid (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Japan Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.),
-As well as mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the pasty fatty substance is a hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least one SK functional group.

  Preferably, the pasty fatty substance is hydrogenated isostearic acid castor oil [SALACOS HCIS (VL) from Nissin Oilio Group Ltd.], bis-behenyl / isostearyl / dimerlinoleic acid dimerlinoleyl phytosteryl, A monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms, obtained by reacting a dimer acid with a mixture of a dimer diol and a trihydric or higher polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, Esters obtained by reacting with dihydric acid and alcohol obtained by using 0.8 to 1.5 molar equivalents of monohydric alcohol to 1 molar equivalent of carboxylic acid groups remaining in the ester obtained from the mixture of alcohols (For example, described in JP-A-23-20933), bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilino Eat [Risocast-DA-L (registered trademark), Risocast DA-H (registered trademark) sold by Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.], polyvinyl laurate, petrolatum, mango fat, shea fat, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogen Selected from hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the fatty paste-like compound is selected from petrolatum and / or an ester of a diol dimer and a diacid dimer.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips is in a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one of the following: Including fat phase:
-A total of 20% to 60% by weight of the total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
(The mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil to the total amount of non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, more preferably the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9)
-At least with dextrin esters
-(i) bis-behenyl / isostearyl / dimerlinoleic acid dimerlinoleyl phytosteryl, (ii) an ester obtained by reacting a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 34 carbon atoms with an ester (dimer acid Carboxylic acid remaining in the ester obtained from the dimer acid and alcohol mixture obtained by reacting with a dimer diol and an alcohol mixture of a trihydric or higher polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms At least one pasty compound selected from (obtained by using 0.8 to 1.5 molar equivalents of a monohydric alcohol relative to 1 molar equivalent of the group), and preferably selected in (ii) .

  Preferably the composition is preferably from a fatty pasty compound, preferably selected from preferably hydrocarbonated volatile oils such as isododecane and / or esters of petrolatum and / or diol dimers and diacid dimers. Contains at least one additional fatty phase selected.

Filler The makeup and / or care composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers.

  According to the first embodiment, the composition does not contain a filler.

  According to a preferred second embodiment, the composition comprises at least one or more fillers.

  The term “filler” should be understood to mean any form of particles, colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, which is insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. . These fillers are particularly useful for modifying the rheology or texture of the composition.

  The filler may be inorganic or organic and of any shape, small, spherical or elliptical, regardless of crystallographic form (e.g. layered, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic etc.) be able to. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, benton, fumed silica particles and polyamide [Nylon®] powder [Atochem, optionally treated with hydrophilic or hydrophobic properties. Orgasol® from], poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer [Teflon®] powder, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / Acrylonitrile microspheres such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres [eg Polytrap® from Dow Corning] and silicone resin microbeads [eg Tospearls® from Toshiba Corporation )], Precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica micro [Silica Beads (R) from Maprecos], elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms Metal soaps derived from acids, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

  These may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. Specifically, they may be hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymers. Specifically, such particles are commercially available, for example, from Toyo Pigment Co., Ltd. under the names Plastic Powder D-400 (registered trademark) or Plastic Powder D-800 (registered trademark).

  According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least silica, preferably hydrophobically treated silica.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one filler, in particular from fumed silica, optionally treated hydrophilic or hydrophobic, preferably treated hydrophobic. Selected. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one filler known as silylated silica dimethyl (according to CTFA).

  Hydrophobic groups may in particular be dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are specifically treated with fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Obtained by. Silicas thus treated are known as silylated silica dimethyl according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These include, for example, the reference names Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® from Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 (from Cabot). Registered trademark).

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise “nanosilica” and preferably does not comprise hydrophobically treated silica, whose INCL name is silylated silicadimethyl. The term “nanosilica” means a silica having a nanometer size or having a fraction of at least a nanometer size.

  Preferably, the composition comprises a filler between 0.01% and 25% by weight, specifically between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, when the composition is in liquid form, it comprises silica, kaolin, benton, fumed silica particles, preferably hydrophobically treated, and at least one filler preferably selected from lauroyllysine and starch. Including.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention can comprise a filler selected from:
-An organically modified clay, preferably treated with a compound specifically selected from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. Organic modified clays that can be mentioned are organically modified bentonites, such as products sold under the name Bentone 34 by Rheox, and organic modified hectorites, such as sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by Rheox. Products
-Hydrophobic fumed silica. Such silicas are, for example, the reference Aerosil R812® by Degussa and the Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by Cabot and by the reference Aerosil R972® by Degussa. Sold by Aerosil R974 (R) and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 (R) and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 (R) by Cabot.

  The filler can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.4% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophobic Silica Airgel Particles According to a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles. Such a compound is a filler.

  Preferably, such compounds are present when the composition does not contain nanosilica, and more particularly when it does not contain silylated silica dimethyl.

  Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 6% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to this embodiment, the composition may comprise at least an additional filler, for example as previously described as an example.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles when the composition does not comprise the previously described nanometer silica particles, such as silica dimethyl silylate.

  Silica airgel is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

These are generally sol - in a liquid medium through a gel process, then typically is dried by extraction with supercritical fluids, which are most commonly used is supercritical CO _2. This type of drying can avoid pore shrinkage and shrinkage of the material. The sol-gel method and various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

Hydrophobic silica airgel particles which may be used in the present invention, the specific surface (S _M) is 500 to 1500 ² / g per mass unit, preferably 600~1200m ² / g, better still 600~800m ² / g The size represented by the volume average diameter (D [0.5]) is 1 to 1500 μm, better 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, specifically 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, The range is more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and still more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

  According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention have a size represented by a volume average diameter (D [0.5]) of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, and more preferably 5 to 5 μm. The range is 20 μm, and even better, 5-15 μm.

  The specific surface area per mass unit can be determined via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, 1938. It is described in February, and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

  The size of the hydrophobic silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. Data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory is rigorous for isotropic particles and makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is specifically described in the publication “Light Scattering by Small Particles” chapters 9 and 10 by Van de Hulst, H.C., Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S _M ) in the range of 600 to 800 m ² / g and a volume average diameter (D [ The size represented by 0.5]) ranges from 5 to 20 μm, and more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

Hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention are advantageously packing density ρ is 0.04 g / cm ³ from 0.10 g / cm ^3, preferably in the range of 0.08 g / cm ³ from 0.05 g / cm ³ be able to.

  In the context of the present invention, this density is known as the packing density and can be assessed according to the following protocol:

Pour 40 g of powder into a graduated cylinder; then place the graduated cylinder on a Stampf Volumeter Stav2003 machine; then subject the graduated cylinder to a series of 2500 filling motions (this operation is the volume between two consecutive tests) Until the difference is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of the filled powder is measured directly with a graduated cylinder. The packing density is determined by the ratio m / Vf (Vf is expressed in cm ³ and m is expressed in g), in this case 40 / Vf.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles which may be used in the present invention, 1 volume specific surface area per unit S _v is 5~60m ² / cm ^3, preferably 10 to 50 m ² / cm ^3, better Ranges from 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ .

The specific surface area per volume unit is obtained by the following relation:
S _v = Swxρ (as defined above, where ρ is the packing density expressed in g / cm ³ and S _M is the specific surface area per volume unit expressed in m ² / g. is there).

  Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the present invention have an oil absorption capacity ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g, better still from 8 to 12 ml / g, measured at the wet point. To do.

  The oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, is written as Wp and corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

  This is measured according to the “wet point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of powder as described in the NF T30-022 standard. This corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed on the vacant surface of the powder by measuring the wet point and / or the amount of oil absorbed into the powder by determining the wet point and is described below:

  An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then oil (isonononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. Add 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, then mix with a spatula and add the oil until an assembly of oil and powder is formed. At this moment, one drop of oil is added at a time and then the mixture is ground with a spatula. When a firm and smooth paste is obtained, stop adding oil. This paste must be able to spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. Then write down the volume of oil used, Vs (expressed in ml).

  The amount of oil taken up corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

  The hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably of the silylated silica type (INCI name: silylated silica).

  The term “hydrophobic silica” refers to the halogenation of any silica whose surface has been treated with a silylating agent, eg alkylchlorosilane, in order to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si—Rn groups, eg trimethylsilyl groups. Silane, siloxane, especially dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazane.

  For the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles that are surface modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,707,725.

  Of particular use are hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

Examples of hydrophobic silica airgel particles that can be used in the present invention include an airgel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silylated silica) by the company Dow Corning, the particles having an average size. Is about 1000 microns, and the specific surface area per mass unit is in the range of 600 to 800 m ² / g

  Further mention may be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the reference names Aerogel TLD201, Aerogel OGD201, Aerogel TLD203 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT1100.

More specifically used is an airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica) by Dow Corning, whose particles range in average size from 5 to 15 microns. The specific surface area per mass unit ranges from 600 to 800 m ² / g (oil intake equal to 1080 ml / 100 g).

Advantageously, the hollow particles according to the invention are at least partly formed from hydrophobic silica airgel particles, preferably having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S _M ) in the range of 500-1500 m ² / g, Preferably, the size is 600 to 1200 m ² / g, and the size expressed by volume average diameter (D [0.5]) is 1 to 1500 μm, more preferably 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, specifically 1 to 30 μm. More preferably, the range is 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and still more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

  The use of hydrophobic silica airgel particles can also advantageously improve the stability of the composition.

The composition according to the dextrin esters present invention are esters of at least dextrin esters of preferably dextrin with a fatty acid, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acids.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and a C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ fatty acid.

  Preferably, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate, such as that marketed by Chiba Flour Mills under the reference name Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL®.

  The composition according to the invention preferably contains the dextrin ester in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention can comprise dextrin esters in a content ranging from 3.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not contain dextrin esters.

Dye The composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise at least one dye (also known as a colorant), which is a water-soluble or fat-soluble dye, pigment and pearlescent agent, and A mixture thereof may be selected.

  The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more dyes selected from water-soluble dyes and powdered dyes, such as pigments, pearlescent agents and glitter flakes, which are well known to those skilled in the art. is there.

  The dye can be present in the composition in a content of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

  The term “pigment” should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions intended to color and / or opacify the resulting coating. .

  The pigment can be present in a proportion of 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular 0.2% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

  Mentioned as inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention are titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydroxide. .

  It can also be a pigment having a structure which may be of the type sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica, for example. Such pigments are sold, for example, by Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS and have a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

  The dye can also include a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, a type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is a product sold by Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. under the reference name PC BALL PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

  Among the organic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine-based or barium-based, strontium-based, calcium-based or aluminum-based lakes, or alternatively European patents. There are diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in A-542669, European Patent A-787730, European Patent A-787731 and International Publication A-96 / 08537.

  The term “pearlescent agent” may or may not be iridescent, specifically produced in its shell by certain molluscs, or otherwise synthesized, and optical interferences. It should be understood to mean any form of colored particles having a color effect therethrough.

  Pearlescent agents are based on titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and also bismuth oxychloride It can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as pearlescent pigments. They can also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two continuous phases of metal oxide and / or organic dye are laminated.

  Further examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigments or with bismuth oxychloride.

  Among the commercially available pearlescent agents are the pearlescent agents Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by Engelhard, the Timiron pearlescent agent sold by Merck, Eckart Prestige mica-based pearlescent agent sold by the company and Sunshine synthetic mica-based pearlescent agent sold by Sun Chemical.

  The pearlescent agent can have a color or shade of yellow, peach, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper, more particularly.

  Examples of pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention are the names Brilliant gold212G (Timica), Gold222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold233X, in particular by Engelhard. Golden pearlescent agent sold under (Cloisonne); in particular sold under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck and under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by Engelhard Bronze pearlescent agents; in particular sold by Engelhard under the names Orange363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) Orange pearlescent agents; especially brown pearlescent agents sold under the names Nu-antique copper340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by Engelhard; in particular sold under the name Copper340A (Timica) by Engelhard Has a copper tint A pearlescent agent with a red tint sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); in particular yellow sold under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by Engelhard A pearlescent agent with a gold shade, especially sold under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by Engelhard; in particular sold under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by Engelhard Pink pearlescent agent; in particular black pearlescent agent with gold shade sold under the name Nu antique bronze240AB (Timica) by Engelhard; in particular sold under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by Merck Blue pearlescent agents; especially white pearlescent agents with a silvery hue sold under the name Xirona Silver by Merck; and especially gold-colored sold under the name Indian summer (Xirona) by Merck Green, pinkish o Nji color pearlescent agent, as well as mixtures thereof.

  The term “dye” should be understood to mean compounds that are generally organic compounds and are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in the hydroalcoholic phase.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dye is, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain at least one material with special optical effects as a dye.

  This effect is different from simple prior art tone effects, i.e. unified and stabilized effects such as standard dyes, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “stabilized” means that there is no effect of color variation in response to temperature changes or alternatively in response to viewing angles.

  For example, this material can be selected from metallic shades, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and particles with fibers, in particular interference fibers. Needless to say, these various substances can be combined to provide two effects simultaneously, or even the manifestation of a novel effect according to the present invention.

Aqueous Phase The composition of the present invention may also comprise an aqueous phase, which is 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 30% by weight, or even 1%, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition can be 20% by mass to 20% by mass. This aqueous phase can be formed essentially from water, or water and a water-miscible solvent (miscible with more than 50% by weight in water at 25 ° C.) (especially 1-5 carbon atoms). monoalcohols having, for example, ethanol or isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C ₃ -C ₄ ketones, C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes, and can comprise a mixture of selected) mixtures thereof.

  However, as specified above, advantageously, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous.

  The term “anhydride” specifically means that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Additives The makeup and / or care compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, for example reducing agents, thickeners, which are particularly hydrophobic. , Film forming agents, silicone elastomers, softeners, antifoams, wetting agents, UV screening agents, ceramides; cosmetic active agents; peptizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, sprays, hydrophilic or lipophilic, synthetic Film- or non-film-forming polymer; selected from lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents. The above-mentioned additives are generally present in their respective amounts between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will carefully select the composition of the composition such that the advantageous properties associated with the present invention are not or substantially not adversely affected.

Conventional Additional Cosmetic Ingredients The composition used according to the present invention may also contain any conventional cosmetic ingredients, which are in particular antioxidants, film-forming polymers, perfumes, preservatives, softeners, Wetting agents, neutralizing agents, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free radical scavengers and sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof may be selected.

  The amount of each of these various components is the amount conventionally used in the envisaged field, for example, ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will recognize optional additional ingredients and / or such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the present invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition. You will choose these quantities carefully.

  The composition according to the invention can be in liquid or solid form.

  According to a first embodiment, the composition is in solid form. In particular, it can be a cosmetic product selected from lip balms and / or lipsticks. The product is preferably in the form of a stick or in the form of a cast in the dish.

  According to one embodiment, it is a lipstick or a lip balm in stick form.

  The composition according to the invention may constitute a liquid lipstick for lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body care product, or a sunscreen product.

  According to one preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is in liquid form. An example of a liquid formulation that can be mentioned in particular is lip gloss.

  As mentioned earlier, the composition according to the invention is homogeneous and stable, in particular in terms of gloss, comfort (sediment depth) and absence of sediment color transfer. Make available deposits on skin or lips with cosmetic properties. In particular, the composition according to the invention specifically forms a deposit in which the lip product does not transfer on the cup while drinking when the composition contains one or more colorants. Can do.

  In the description, and in the examples that follow, unless stated otherwise, percentages are percent by weight and ranges of values given in the form of “between ...” are described. Including lower and upper limits.

  Unless otherwise stated, the values in the following examples are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the technical field of the present invention.

(Example 1)
Liquid lip product type (gross) cosmetic formulation according to the invention A liquid makeup formulation having the following composition was prepared (percentage shown is% by weight). Formulation 1 illustrates the present invention.

Method of preparation The composition was obtained according to the following protocol:

  In the first stage, fatty phase fillers, pigments and / or active agents were ground in a three-roll mill (diisostearyl malate) in some oily phases.

  The remainder of the fat-soluble component was then mixed with a Rayneri blend in a heated pan at a temperature of about 100 ° C. to obtain a homogeneous mixture. The ground pigment material was then incorporated into the mixture with a pearlescent agent (if present) and stirring continued to homogenize the mixture.

Evaluation The viscosity of composition 1 at 25 ° C. was evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

  The resulting composition was placed at 24 ° C. and 47 ° C. for 72 hours to evaluate the stability of the composition. More specifically, it is observed whether the composition is stable, i.e. remains homogeneous (no phase separation occurs and / or no pigment settling occurs).

  The composition was then applied to the lips in order to evaluate the application characteristics and characteristics of the resulting deposits (shine, color transfer resistance and stickiness).

  The stickiness of the deposit made on the lips with the formulation to be evaluated is evaluated by rubbing the upper and lower lips together 5 minutes after application, She was rated at the time of her upper and lower lip deposit removal.

  Color transfer resistance was assessed by placing the lips on a white cup while drinking 5 minutes after applying the composition to the lips.

  Formulation 1 according to the invention with 40% non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil has good application properties (smooth sliding) and good color transfer resistance (little color on the cup). The deposit made with Formulation 1 is slightly sticky and has a good level of shine.

(Example 2)
Liquid Lip Gloss Composition as a Comparative Example Comparative Example 2 is a liquid lip gloss other than the present invention, containing only 10% non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil and over 30% non-volatile non-polar oil.

  Composition 2 was prepared and evaluated in the same manner as previously described.

  The results are as follows.

  Comparative composition 2 is homogeneous and stable, and the deposit on the lips has a good level of shine.

  However, the composition 2 is less easily applied (not slippery) than the composition 1 according to the present invention, and the deposit on the lips is more sticky and has poor color transfer resistance.

(Examples 3 to 7)
Liquid Lip Gloss Composition Liquid makeup formulations 3-7 having the following compositions were prepared (the percentages shown are% by weight).

  Formulations 3 and 4 illustrate the present invention. Compositions 5, 6 and 7 are comparative compositions other than the present invention.

  Compositions 3 through 7 were prepared and evaluated in the same manner as previously described.

  The results are as follows.

  All compositions are homogeneous and stable. Only the compositions 3 and 4 according to the invention make it possible to obtain deposits on the lips with good color transfer resistance, in particular resistance to color transfer to the cup. In addition, the deposits obtained with compositions 3 and 4 have good levels of shine and no or little stickiness. Compositions 3 and 4 according to the invention are easy to apply, i.e. slide well, and the resulting deposits are thick and comfortable.

(Example 8)
Cosmetic composition of liquid lip product type (gross) The same preparation method is carried out to prepare the following composition (percentage shown is% by weight).

  The mixture is heated to 210 ° -220 ° C. under a stream of nitrogen to carry out the esterification reaction for 41 hours while distilling off the water produced during the reaction.

  This gave 1618 g of the desired ester (yield: 99.2%).

  The obtained ester was a pale yellow paste. (Gardner color number: 1 or less, acid value: 4.0, saponification value: 133.6, hydroxyl value: 6.8)

Evaluation The same evaluation method as described in detail in the previous examples was used. The properties of the composition are shown in the table below.

Claims (18)

In a physiologically acceptable medium,
-A total of 20% to 60% by weight of the total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil or mixture thereof having at least a dimethicone moiety, relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
-A total of 3% to 20% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil or mixture thereof relative to the total weight of the composition;
(The mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil to the total amount of non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, more preferably the mass ratio of the total amount of non-volatile silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9)
-A cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least an ester of dextrin.   2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 20% by mass to 30% by mass in total with respect to the total mass of the composition.   The mass ratio of total non-volatile nonpolar hydrocarbonated oil / total non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is less than 0.9, preferably between 0.1 and 0.8, preferably between 0.2 and 0.7. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein   The non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil is selected from polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, and mixtures thereof. Composition. Nonvolatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is:
a) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (IV)

[Wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents —CH ₂ —CH (CH ₃ ) (Ph)]
b) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (V)

[Wherein Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR ′ represents an —OSiMe ₃ group, y ranges between 1 and 1000, z ranges between 1 and 1000, Specifically, y and z are numbers such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil, preferably, for example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone]
c) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (VI), and mixtures thereof

(Where
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably R ₁ to R ₁₀ are in particular May be the same, more preferably a methyl group,
-m, n, p and q are each independently an integer between 0 and 900, and p is an integer between 1 and 900, provided that the sum m + n + q is not 0)
d) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (VII), and mixtures thereof

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, an aryl group or an aralkyl group, preferably a methyl group,
R ₃ and R ₄ are, independently of one another, a C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based alkyl group, preferably methyl,
-p is an integer between 1 and 100,
-m and n are independently integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100)
e) Phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (IX) and mixtures thereof

(Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ are alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms together or separately, and R ₃ and R ₄ are 1 to 6 together or separately. An alkyl group having 1 carbon atom or an aryl group, provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl group, and X is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, or vinyl. And n and p are integers greater than or equal to 1)
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which may be selected from f) as well as mixtures thereof. Said non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety has the formula (VII) wherein m, n, p and R ₁ to R ₆ are as defined above, preferably R ₁ to R ₆ Is a methyl group, wherein m = 0 and n and p are independently of each other selected from phenyl dimethicone oils, preferably the silicone oil is 6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the composition is selected from diphenyl dimethicone. Said non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety has the formula (VII) wherein m, n, p and R ₁ to R ₆ are as defined above, preferably R ₁ to R ₆ Is a methyl group, wherein p is between 1 and 100, and the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, where n = 0). 6. A composition according to claims 1 to 5, preferably wherein the silicone oil is selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. The non-volatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety,
-Diphenyl dimethicone,
-Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone,
-Trimethylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and / or
-Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, selected from a mixture thereof.   The nonvolatile phenylated silicone oil having at least a dimethicone moiety is contained in a total amount of 25% to 55% by weight, preferably 30% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1.   The mass ratio of the total nonpolar non-volatile hydrocarbonated oil to the total non-volatile phenyl dimethicone oil is 0.8 or less, preferably between 0.25 and 0.8, according to any one of claims 1 to 9. The composition as described.   11. The non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbonated polar oil is selected from ester oils, preferably diester oils and / or hydroxylated ester oils, preferably diisostearyl malate. Composition.   From dextrin esters or mixtures thereof comprising from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3.2% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 12. The composition according to any one of 11 above.   Fatty pasty compounds, preferably selected from preferably volatile oils such as isododecane and / or esters of petrolatum and / or diol dimers and diacid dimers, and / or fillers and / or coloring 13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one additional compound, preferably selected from agents, and / or mixtures thereof.   14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least a filler such as silica and / or hydrophobic silica.   Hydrophobic silica airgel particles, preferably also hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably containing 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the range from 10% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 4% by weight.   16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, which is a lip product such as a lipstick, lip care product, lipstick pencil or lip gloss.   17. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, which is a liquid.   Making up the skin and / or lips, comprising applying at least the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 onto the skin and / or lips, preferably onto the lips, and / or Or a way to care.