FR2999912A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for artificially coloring the skin, providing a natural tan without sun and/or providing good radiant complexion, comprises dihydroxyacetone, extract of aloe gel and/or erythrulose, glycerin, and gelling agent - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition, useful for artificially coloring the skin, providing a natural tan without sun and/or providing good radiant complexion, comprises dihydroxyacetone, extract of aloe gel and/or erythrulose, glycerin, and gelling agent Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2999912A1 FR2999912A1 FR1203550A FR1203550A FR2999912A1 FR 2999912 A1 FR2999912 A1 FR 2999912A1 FR 1203550 A FR1203550 A FR 1203550A FR 1203550 A FR1203550 A FR 1203550A FR 2999912 A1 FR2999912 A1 FR 2999912A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- dha
- skin
- providing
- erythrulose
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Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 42
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 9
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims description 14
- 241001116389 Aloe Species 0.000 title claims description 8
- 235000011399 aloe vera Nutrition 0.000 title claims description 8
- UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N erythrulose Chemical compound OCC(O)C(=O)CO UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims description 7
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 title claims description 7
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 title claims description 4
- RXKJFZQQPQGTFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N dihydroxyacetone Chemical compound OCC(=O)CO RXKJFZQQPQGTFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 54
- 229940120503 dihydroxyacetone Drugs 0.000 title abstract description 27
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005070 sampling Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 11
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 5
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 5
- 239000012141 concentrate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 206010013786 Dry skin Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000037336 dry skin Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000037307 sensitive skin Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-VKHMYHEASA-N L-erythrulose Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)C(=O)CO UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 206010039792 Seborrhoea Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000002730 additional effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000002485 formyl group Chemical class [H]C(*)=O 0.000 description 1
- 125000000468 ketone group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037312 oily skin Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000546 pharmaceutical excipient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION CONCENTREE EN DIHYDROXYACETONE L'invention concerne le domaine des cosmétiques et plus particulièrement celui des soins auto bronzants. L'invention concerne plus particulièrement une composition cosmétique comprenant de 15 à 50% de dihydroxyacétone, et plus particulièrement de 20 à 40% de dihydroxyacétone (DHA).The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and more particularly to the field of self-tanning treatments. The invention more particularly relates to a cosmetic composition comprising from 15 to 50% of dihydroxyacetone, and more particularly from 20 to 40% of dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
10 Les compositions autobronzantes connaissent un succès croissant: de plus en plus de personnes souhaitent avoir bonne mine tout au long de l'année. Elles recherchent une coloration de la peau naturelle semblable à celle obtenue avec le soleil sans avoir recours à des cabines de bronzage 15 artificiel. L'utilisation de la dihydroxyacétone (DHA) comme agent autobronzant est connue depuis les années 1960. Elle repose sur le principe de la réaction de Maillard, qui intervient entre les protéines et les acides aminés du stratum 20 corneum (couche superficielle de l'épiderme) et les groupes aldéhydes ou cétones des molécules de sucres réductrices de la DHA. Cette réaction génère des composés bruns connus sous le nom de mélanoïdes, la peau arbore alors un hâle sans necessiter de soleil.Self-tanning compositions are becoming increasingly popular: more and more people want to look good throughout the year. They seek a natural skin color similar to that obtained with the sun without resorting to artificial tanning booths. The use of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as a self-tanning agent has been known since the 1960s. It is based on the principle of the Maillard reaction, which intervenes between the proteins and the amino acids of the stratum corneum (superficial layer of the epidermis). ) and the aldehyde or ketone groups of the reducing sugar molecules of DHA. This reaction generates brown compounds known as melanoids, the skin then sports a tan without the need for sunshine.
25 Depuis les premières utilisations de la DHA, de nombreuses améliorations ont été apportées, principalement dans la formulation de son excipient afin d'en améliorer la facilité d'application, en augmenter sa pénétration cutanée (WO 9412146) ou en y ajoutant une silicone (EP 0 547 864 ; FR 30 2 746 312). De par la nature même de la réaction de la DHA avec les acides aminés et protéines cutanée propres à chaque individu, les résultats ne sont pas comparables d' une personne à l'autre. En effet selon sa nature de protéines cutanées une personne réagira vivement à un produit et présentera une coloration prononcée, alors qu'avec ce même produit à la même concentration de DHA une autre ne présentera qu'une faible coloration et ne sera pas satisfaite du résultat. C'est la raison pour laquelle on a vu apparaitre sur le marché ces dernières années des produits avec des concentrations de DHA plus ou moins importantes essayant de répondre à ce besoin. Il subsiste encore des progrès à faire car l'on ne peut pas proposer à la vente une très grande gamme de produits ayant des concentrations de DHA adaptées à chaque nature protéique cutanée. De même un autre inconvénient de ce type de produit est de ne pas respecter la nature première de la peau de l'utilisatrice. En effet, un produit auto bronzant répond à un seul but : apporter un hâle sans soleil à la peau. Il n'entend pas traiter une peau sèche, une peau grasse ou une peau sensible. Il faudrait pour répondre aux besoins des consommatrices disposer d'une large gamme adaptée à chaque type de peaux, ce qui n'est pas commercialement possible. Donc l'utilisation d'une composition auto bronzante oblige l'utilisatrice à renoncer à son soin habituel, ce qui présente un désagrément particulièrement important en terme de confort pour une personne ayant une peau sèche ou une peau sensible par exemple. Ces dernières préfèrent souvent se passer de soin auto bronzant. C'est en particulier pour celles ci que la demanderesse a développé une composition particulièrement concentrée en DHA à ajouter à leurs soins habituels afin d'en conserver le bénéfice. En effet il suffit à l'utilisatrice d'ajouter quelques gouttes de concentré auto bronzant à son soin habituel dans le creux de la main, à mélanger soigneusement les deux avant l'application sur sa peau. Non seulement l'ajout de DHA ne modifie en rien les propriétés dudit soin mais lui apporte un effet supplémentaire sur la coloration de la peau après quelques heures. Il appartient à l'utilisatrice de doser la quantité de DHA qu' elle ajoute à son soin quotidien en fonction de la coloration souhaitée et ceci en respectant sa nature protéique cutanée. L'intérêt de cette large palette de possibilités étant de s'adapter totalement à la demande de l'utilisatrice. Il est bien entendu que l'utilisatrice pourra ajouter ce concentré de DHA aussi bien à son soin visage qu'à son soin corps selon les parties qu'elle souhaite colorer et aussi bien le matin que le soir. L'invention concerne donc l'utilisation d'une composition cosmétique comprenant de 15 à 50% de DHA, et plus particulièrement de 20 à 40% de DHA. La composition selon l'invention peut comporter en plus de la DHA des ingrédients classiques connus de l'homme du métier, comme par exemple des ingrédients hydratants de la glycérine ou un gel d'aloès pour lutter contre l'effet quelque peu desséchant de la DHA. De même il est intéressant d'ajouter un gélifiant de type gomme de xanthane par exemple, pour gélifier la formule et la rendre plus facile d'utilisation pour l'utilisatrice. La composition selon l'invention peut judicieusement comporter de l'érythrulose puisque la demanderesse a montré précédemment (FR2 772 268) qu'associé au gel d'aloès il aidait à rendre la coloration apportée par DHA plus durable et plus homogène. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier l'invention comporte un gel d'aloès et/ou de l'érythrulose et/ou de la glycérine. On peut se procurer un gel d'aloès par exemple chez. le fournisseur de matières premières Jan Dekker sous la dénomination ALOES UP1. De même, on peut se procurer de l'érythrulose par exemple chez le fournisseur de matières premières DSM sous la dénomination ERYTHURULOSE. Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention la composition comporte 0.5 à 2% de gel d'aloès, de 0.5 à 2 % d'érythrulose, de 2 à 7 % de glycérine et de 0.1 à 0.5% de gélifiant Comme par exemple de la gomme xanthane. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition autobronzante en mélange avec une autre composition exempte de DHA, afin de rendre cette dernière autobronzante. La composition exempte de DHA étant 15 aussi bien un soin pour le visage que pour le corps et quel que soit le type de peaux pour lequel il est formulé. De plus l'invention concerne l'utilisation de ladite composition autobronzante pour colorer 20 artificiellement la peau, et/ou lui donner un hâle naturel . sans soleil, et/ou lui donner une bonne mine éclatante. L'invention concerne aussi un procédé de préparation d'une composition autobronzante caractérisée en 25 ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : - prélèvement d'une dose d'une composition cosmétique exempte de DHA. On entend par dose la quantité habituellement utilisée pour le visage qui est de 1.5 gr. -ajout de 1 à 3 gouttes, c' est-à-dire de 0.03 30 à 0.09 gr de la composition autobronzante. - mélange extemporané des 2 compositions. On pourra bien entendu suivant la zone d'application concernée, ajouter plusieurs doses.Since the first uses of DHA, many improvements have been made, mainly in the formulation of its excipient to improve its ease of application, increase its skin penetration (WO 9412146) or by adding a silicone ( EP 0 547 864; FR 2 746 312). By the very nature of the reaction of DHA with the amino acids and cutaneous proteins specific to each individual, the results are not comparable from one person to another. Indeed according to its nature of cutaneous proteins a person will react strongly to a product and will present a pronounced coloration, while with this same product at the same concentration of DHA another will have only a weak coloration and will not be satisfied with the result . This is why we have seen on the market in recent years products with concentrations of DHA more or less important trying to meet this need. There is still progress to be made because we can not offer for sale a very wide range of products with DHA concentrations adapted to each cutaneous protein nature. Similarly another disadvantage of this type of product is not to respect the nature of the skin of the user. Indeed, a self-tanning product meets a single goal: to bring a tan without sun to the skin. It does not intend to treat dry skin, oily skin or sensitive skin. It would be necessary to meet the needs of consumers have a wide range adapted to each type of skin, which is not commercially possible. So the use of a self-tanning composition requires the user to give up her usual care, which is particularly troublesome in terms of comfort for a person with dry skin or sensitive skin for example. The latter often prefer to do without self-tanning care. It is particularly for these that the applicant has developed a composition particularly concentrated in DHA to add to their usual care in order to retain the benefit. Indeed it is sufficient for the user to add a few drops of self-tanning concentrate to his usual care in the palm of the hand, to mix thoroughly before applying both on the skin. Not only does the addition of DHA in no way affect the properties of said treatment but gives it an additional effect on the coloring of the skin after a few hours. It is up to the user to dose the amount of DHA that she adds to her daily care depending on the desired color and this while respecting its cutaneous protein nature. The advantage of this wide range of possibilities is to adapt completely to the user's request. It is understood that the user will be able to add this concentrate of DHA as well to its facial care as to its body care according to the parts that it wishes to color and as well the morning as the evening. The invention therefore relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising from 15 to 50% of DHA, and more particularly from 20 to 40% of DHA. The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to DHA, conventional ingredients known to those skilled in the art, for example moisturizing ingredients of glycerin or an aloe gel to combat the somewhat drying effect of DHA. Similarly, it is advantageous to add a gelling agent such as xanthan gum, for example, to gel the formula and make it easier for the user to use. The composition according to the invention may suitably comprise erythrulose since the applicant has previously shown (FR2 772 268) that associated with the aloe gel it helped to make the color provided by DHA more durable and more homogeneous. According to a particular embodiment, the invention comprises an aloe gel and / or erythrulose and / or glycerine. An aloe gel is available for example at. raw material supplier Jan Dekker under the name ALOES UP1. Similarly, erythrulose can be obtained for example from the supplier of raw materials DSM under the name ERYTHURULOSE. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises 0.5 to 2% of aloe gel, 0.5 to 2% of erythrulose, 2 to 7% of glycerin and 0.1 to 0.5% of gelling agent. xanthan gum. The invention also relates to the use of said self-tanning composition mixed with another composition free of DHA, in order to make the latter self-tanning. The DHA-free composition is both a facial and a body care and whatever type of skin it is formulated for. In addition the invention relates to the use of said self-tanning composition for artificially coloring the skin, and / or giving it a natural tan. without sun, and / or give it a good glowing appearance. The invention also relates to a method for preparing a self-tanning composition characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - taking a dose of a cosmetic composition free of DHA. By dose is meant the amount usually used for the face which is 1.5 gr. addition of 1 to 3 drops, that is to say 0.03 to 0.09 gr of the self-tanning composition. - extemporaneous mixture of 2 compositions. Of course, depending on the area of application concerned, add several doses.
10 L'invention concerne enfin un procédé pour colorer artificiellement la peau, et/ou lui donner un hâle naturel sans soleil, et/ou lui donner une bonne mine éclatante, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application sur la zone concernée de la composition obtenue selon le procédé défini précédemment. Les exemples suivants illustrent l'invention sans toutefois en limiter la portée. CONCENTRE AUTOBRONZANT DHA 20,00 ERYTHRULOSE 2,00 GEL D'ALOES 2,00 GLYCERINE 5,00 GOMME XANTHANE 0,50 ALCOOL 10,00 EAU DEMINERALISEE o.s.P.100. 30Finally, the invention relates to a method for artificially coloring the skin, and / or giving it a sunless natural tan, and / or giving it a good glowing appearance, characterized in that it comprises the application to the area concerned of the composition obtained according to the process defined above. The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting its scope. CONCENTRATE AUTOBRONZANT DHA 20,00 ERYTHRULOSE 2,00 ALOE GEL 2,00 GLYCERIN 5,00 XANTHANE GUM 0,50 ALCOHOL 10,00 DEMINERALIZED WATER o.s.P.100. 30
Claims (10)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1203550A FR2999912B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2012-12-21 | COMPOSITION CONCENTRATED WITH DIHYDROXYYACETONE |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1203550A FR2999912B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2012-12-21 | COMPOSITION CONCENTRATED WITH DIHYDROXYYACETONE |
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Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR2999912A1 true FR2999912A1 (en) | 2014-06-27 |
FR2999912B1 FR2999912B1 (en) | 2015-02-13 |
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FR1203550A Active FR2999912B1 (en) | 2012-12-21 | 2012-12-21 | COMPOSITION CONCENTRATED WITH DIHYDROXYYACETONE |
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Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3098113A1 (en) | 2019-07-04 | 2021-01-08 | Capsum | Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates |
Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2759287A1 (en) * | 1997-02-07 | 1998-08-14 | Scp Paule Charmasson | Cosmetic self-tanning preparation based on di:hydroxy-acetone |
US20020031482A1 (en) * | 1997-03-05 | 2002-03-14 | Thomas Schreier | Combination of erythrulose and a reducing sugar with self-tanning properties |
US20050089486A1 (en) * | 2003-09-24 | 2005-04-28 | Ralph Spindler | Self-tanning compositions and method of using the same |
US20070264209A1 (en) * | 2006-03-06 | 2007-11-15 | Chaudhuri Ratan K | Soluble containers for self-tanning formulations |
US20080003245A1 (en) * | 2006-06-30 | 2008-01-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Use of octyl salicylate in cosmetic preparations containing 1,3-dihydroxyacetone |
US20080279792A1 (en) * | 2004-02-11 | 2008-11-13 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic And Dermatological Self-Tanning Formulations Comprising Dihydroxyacetone And Glycerin |
-
2012
- 2012-12-21 FR FR1203550A patent/FR2999912B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2759287A1 (en) * | 1997-02-07 | 1998-08-14 | Scp Paule Charmasson | Cosmetic self-tanning preparation based on di:hydroxy-acetone |
US20020031482A1 (en) * | 1997-03-05 | 2002-03-14 | Thomas Schreier | Combination of erythrulose and a reducing sugar with self-tanning properties |
US20050089486A1 (en) * | 2003-09-24 | 2005-04-28 | Ralph Spindler | Self-tanning compositions and method of using the same |
US20080279792A1 (en) * | 2004-02-11 | 2008-11-13 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic And Dermatological Self-Tanning Formulations Comprising Dihydroxyacetone And Glycerin |
US20070264209A1 (en) * | 2006-03-06 | 2007-11-15 | Chaudhuri Ratan K | Soluble containers for self-tanning formulations |
US20080003245A1 (en) * | 2006-06-30 | 2008-01-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Use of octyl salicylate in cosmetic preparations containing 1,3-dihydroxyacetone |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3098113A1 (en) | 2019-07-04 | 2021-01-08 | Capsum | Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a fatty phase in the form of drops and aggregates |
Also Published As
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FR2999912B1 (en) | 2015-02-13 |
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