FR2984725A1 - USE OF A COSMETIC OR DERMOCOSMETIC COMPOSITION TO CONTROL THE EFFECTS OF TOBACCO ON THE SKIN - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peel agent, for use as a composition for topical application to improve the skin. the quality of the facial skin of people who smoke or have smoked. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of human skin, intended to improve the quality of the skin of smokers or smokers, including the topical application of such a composition.

Description

The present invention relates to the use on the skin of a cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic composition to prevent or fight specifically against cutaneous manifestations related to the skin and to the skin. smoking. It is well known that tobacco has significant harmful effects on the body. In particular, it has been known for many years that tobacco plays a deleterious role in the development of cancers or cardiovascular and respiratory disorders. More recently, several studies have confirmed that smoking also has disastrous consequences on the skin. Tobacco causes an accelerated aging of the skin, especially in women, which is manifested in particular in the face by - the appearance of dark circles and puffiness in the eyes, - dehydration and the appearance of fine lines at the level of the lips, 15 - a gray complexion and pigment spots, - clogged pores, the appearance of cysts and comedones, and - the appearance of early deep wrinkles. All these manifestations are unpleasant and unsightly, and all the more so in our modern societies where we seek an ever more youthful and healthy appearance.

Currently, there are many anti-aging cosmetics designed to combat one or more of these visible signs of aging skin. However, the Applicant has found that none of these products is adapted and optimized, and therefore satisfactory in terms of effectiveness on the skins of smokers, because they have particular characteristics related to tobacco consumption, which the differentiate from other aged skin, especially photo-skinned skins. In particular, cigarette smoke contains sticky and fatty particles and molecules, mainly nicotine, which are deposited on the face and form a film characteristic of the skins of smokers that prevents optimal and adapted action of the active ingredients. The skins of smokers also contain concentrated free radicals and also suffer the harmful effect of burning mainly on the contours of the mouth but also on the face.

There is therefore a real and important need for a specific solution, simple to manufacture and use, adapted to the skin problems of people who smoke or have smoked. It is the object of the present invention to use a particular composition which allows both to act on the visible manifestations of early cutaneous aging caused by tobacco, while taking into account the characteristics of the skin of the skin. smokers or smokers. For this purpose, the invention aims in particular at a composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peel agent, for use as a cutaneous topical application composition. intended to improve the quality of the facial skin of smokers or smokers. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and treatment of the human skin of smokers or smokers.

Advantageously, the combination in the same product of a superficial peel agent and a cosmetic active ingredient is particularly suitable for cutaneous problems related to smoking. The superficial soft peel eliminates the particles and molecules present on the surface of the skin without attacking the skin, and allows an immediate and optimized penetration of the cosmetic active ingredient in the cells of the skin to exert its targeted action. Other features and advantages will become apparent from the following detailed description of the invention. The invention therefore aims at the use of a topically applied skin composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, to improve the quality of the skin. facial skin of smokers or smokers. By topical application composition cutaneous means any composition intended to be applied locally on the skin, in particular a cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic composition. The composition may be in any galenic form suitable for topical administration to the skin. It can be in particular in the form of solutions, aqueous gels, suspensions or emulsions and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, paste or foam.

By superficial peeling agent is meant any chemical, biological or enzymatic agent having a superficial peeling action at the level of the epidermis, as opposed to a semi-deep or deep peel or a mechanical peel. The surface peel agent (s) present in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from fruit acids, fruit enzymes, salicylic acid or glycolic acid. Preferentially, the superficial peel agent is salicylic acid or the enzyme papain, a proteolytic enzyme that selectively degrades the corneodesmosales bonds between damaged and dead cells.

As an illustration, the concentration of peeling agent in the composition may be between 0.2 and 7% by weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 4%. In combination with the superficial peel agent, the composition comprises one or more active ingredient (s) active (s) cosmetic (s), preferably at least one moisturizing active ingredient. The moisturizing active ingredient may especially be chosen from collagen, algae (brown, red, rich in silicone), vegetable moisturizers such as aloe vera or mauve, for example, amino acids, fatty acids or oils such as hazelnut oil for example. Preferably, the hydrating active ingredient is hyaluronic acid, more preferably of low molecular weight. The composition according to the invention may also contain, preferentially in addition to the moisturizing active ingredient, one or more cosmetic active ingredients having an anti-wrinkle effect, for example palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, known under the trade name Matrixyl®, the brown or red algae, retinol, Q10, and / or - anti-wrinkles, for example resveratrol, and / or - anti-inflammatory, for example resveratrol, and / or anti-free radical, for example polyphenols, vitamins A , C or E, and / or - promoting drainage and microcirculation, for example a red vine extract, lemongrass, Lysine aspartate, holly or caffeine. The active ingredient (s) are very preferably present at the maximum concentration of optimization of the asset, according to the tests and results of the supplier. This high concentration makes it possible to obtain an effect adapted to cutaneous cells aged and damaged by cigarette smoke.

The composition also comprises, in addition to the peeling agent and the active ingredient (s), a physiologically acceptable medium that does not cause unacceptable discomfort to the user, such as redness, tightness or tingling. It may contain as adjuvant, for example, an oil, a wax, a surfactant, a thickener or gelling agent, a humectant, a perfume, etc. The composition can be obtained conventionally by mixing the constituents, and according to the recommendations known to those skilled in the art for the various elements that compose it.

According to the invention, the composition is particularly useful for treating cutaneous problems related to smoking. The superficial soft peel allows the active ingredients to penetrate immediately into the skin cells in sufficient quantity to have a very good efficiency. The composition makes it possible both to remove particles or molecules which form a film on the skin of smokers and to improve the quality of the skin by targeting specific cutaneous manifestations related to premature aging of the skin caused by tobacco. . In particular, it makes it possible: to moisturize the lips, and / or to prevent or fight against fine lines at the level of the lips, and / or to prevent or fight against puffiness and dark circles in the eyes, and / or to prevent or combat the appearance of early wrinkles at the level of the cheekbones and the eyes, and / or to improve the texture of the skin, and / or to improve the complexion, and / or to prevent and / or fight against the appearance of pigmentary spots.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic skin care process, which consists in applying to the skin of smokers or smokers, the composition described above. According to a variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied to the lips and / or the contour of the lips, to prevent or fight against the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers who have a high dehydration of the lips and the appearance of premature wrinkles and fine lines in the upper lip.

Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peeling agent, a moisturizing active agent and an anti-wrinkle active ingredient. The composition may for example comprise the combination of at least - papain, - hyaluronic acid, and - palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is used for an application on the lips, using an applicator device comprising a tip with silicone exfoliating pegs.

This application also eliminates dead cells present on the skin of the lips and / or the contour of the lips, and further improve the effectiveness of the composition. Advantageously, the device can have the format of a stick or a pen, and can be easily transported for an application several times a day.

Preferably the composition is applied at least 3 times a day on the lips or the contour of the lips. Even more preferentially, it is applied at least twice a day on the lips, and once before bedtime.

According to a second variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied to the entire face, as a mask to be posed and then rinsed, to prevent and / or fight against encrusted and asphyxiated pores, the poor circulation, the dehydration and / or alteration of the complexion of the skin. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers by de-scaling pores, rehydrating the skin of the face and illuminating the complexion. Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peel agent, a moisturizing active ingredient and a desquamating physical agent (mechanical exfoliation). The composition may, for example, comprise the combination of at least salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, fine ground seeds and / or synthetic beads intended for mechanical peeling. skin. The composition may also contain a purifying agent, such as clay, and an astringent, such as lavender. The composition is used for an application on the face in the form of an exfoliating mask. Preferably, the application of the mask is divided into several steps: applying the composition to the moistened face and neck, gently exfoliating to loosen the particles by a superficial chemical peel and a mechanical peel, leaving the mask between 10 and 20 minutes to treat and leave active the active ingredients present in the mask, - rinse, preferably with lukewarm water, abundantly. For best results, the mask should be applied at least once a week to the entire face and neck.

According to a third variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied around the eyes, to prevent or fight against dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles and / or fine lines. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers who have a poor microcirculation responsible for the appearance of dark circles and puffiness, and early wrinkles located around the eyes. Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, an anti-wrinkle active principle, an anti-free radical active ingredient, and at least one microcirculatory active ingredient promoting drainage and a moisturizing active ingredient. The composition may for example comprise the combination of at least - salicylic acid or papain, - resveratrol, polyphenols of green tea or grapes, - red vine or caffeine, and - lemongrass or lysine aspartate. The composition is used for an application at the level of the eye contour, for example using an applicator device comprising a tip with a brush or roll-on. Advantageously, this allows a localized and soft application at the level of an area with thin and fragile skin. A small tube-shaped tube with a brush-shaped tip is preferred because it can be easily transported for application several times a day. Preferably the composition is applied at least once a day, preferably 2 on the eye contour.

The invention is now illustrated by an example of a non-limiting composition, which comprises the following elements: - Glycerin codex (Interchimie) 2.5% - Refined hazelnut oil (ennagram) 1.8% Solagum AX (Seppic) 1% Emulium Kappa 2ECH (Gattefosse) 6% FANCOR ABYSSINIAN oil (interactive) 2.5% Shea butter (interactive) 3.8% Lanette 16 (friend) 1.8% Microcare emollient CLG (Thor) 0.5% Tri caprylate ( interchimie) 3.2% Cetiol CC (friend) 3.2% Inolex lexfeel natural (Saci) 1.8% Phenoxetol (scd) 0.5% Vanatural (Lavolee) 1% Matrixyl 3000 (Sederma) 3% Copherol F 1300C ( Friend) 0.1% Renovhyal (Soliance) 0.3% Lip Care ref1108076 0.1% (scented expressions) Peelmoist (Lipotec) 4.8% - Water qs 100%. Such a composition is particularly suitable for application to the lips and the lip contour of smokers or smokers.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peel agent, for use as a topical application composition for improving the quality of the skin of the face of persons smokers or having smoked. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient is a cutaneous moisturizing active ingredient. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peel agent and at least two cosmetic active ingredients - a principle moisturizing active ingredient, and an anti-wrinkle and / or anti-wrinkle and / or anti-inflammatory and / or anti-radical active principle and / or promoting drainage and microcirculation. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, for use as a composition for application to the lips and / or the contour of the lips to prevent or fight against wrinkles or fine lines in smokers or having smoked. 20 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, a moisturizing active ingredient and an anti-wrinkle active principle. 6. Composition according to one of claims 4 or 5, for use as a composition for topical application using an applicator device 25 comprising a tip with silicone exfoliating pegs. 7. Composition according to one of claims 4 to 6 for its use as a composition to be applied at least 3 times per day at the lips and / or the contour of the lips of smokers or smokers. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 for its use as a mask application composition on the face to prevent or fight against encrusted and asphyxiated pores, poor circulation, dehydration and alteration of complexion. the facial skin of smokers or smokers. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical agent, biological or enzymatic superficial peel, a moisturizing active ingredient and a desquamating physical agent. 10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, for use as a composition to be applied as a mask at least once a week to the entire face and neck of smokers or smokers. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, for use as an application composition around the eyes to prevent or fight against dark circles, wrinkles and / or fine lines of smokers or smokers. 12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, an anti-wrinkle active principle, an anti-radical active ingredient, a microcirculatory active principle promoting drainage and a moisturizing active ingredient. 13. A cosmetic process for the care of human skin, intended to improve the skin quality of smokers or smokers, comprising the topical application of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12. 14. A cosmetic method for the care of human skin according to claim 13, characterized in that it consists in applying a single product to the skin to both remove the particles or molecules that form a film on the skin of smokers and improve the quality of the skin by targeting specific skin manifestations related to the premature aging of the skin caused by tobacco, in particular: - moisturize the lips, and / or - prevent or fight against fine lines in the lips, and / or - prevent or fight against puffiness and dark circles in the eyes, and / or - prevent or fight against the appearance of early wrinkles in the cheekbones and eyes, and / or - improve the texture of the skin, and / or - improve the complexion, and / or - prevent and / or fight against the appearance of pigmentary spots.