WO2013098519A2

WO2013098519A2 - Use of a composition for preventing and combating the effects of tobacco on the skin

Info

Publication number: WO2013098519A2
Application number: PCT/FR2012/053077
Authority: WO
Inventors: Soumya TAHIRI
Original assignee: Achaladanelle
Priority date: 2011-12-26
Filing date: 2012-12-24
Publication date: 2013-07-04
Also published as: FR2984725B1; WO2013098519A3; FR2984725A1

Abstract

The subject matter of the invention is a composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic and/or dermatological active principle and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, for the use thereof as a composition for topical cutaneous application intended to improve the quality of the facial skin of persons who smoke or who have smoked, to combat the cutaneous manifestations associated with smoking and/or to help prevent the onset of skin diseases related to tobacco. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for human skin, intended to improve the quality of the skin of persons who smoke or who have smoked, comprising the topical application of such a composition, the active principle being a cosmetic active principle.

Description

USE OF A COMPOSITION FOR PREVENTING AND CONTROLLING THE EFFECTS OF TOBACCO ON THE SKIN

The present invention relates to the use on the skin of a composition for preventing or specifically fighting against cutaneous manifestations related to smoking.

It is well known that tobacco has significant harmful effects on the body. It has been known in particular for many years that tobacco plays a deleterious role in the development of cancers or cardiovascular and respiratory disorders.

More recently, several studies have confirmed that smoking also has disastrous consequences on the skin.

In particular, tobacco induces accelerated and premature aging of the skin:

- Tobacco generates free radicals which cause a strong oxidative stress and damage the cells;

- Tobacco accelerates the molecular mechanisms of aging: it causes a blocking of the fibroblasts' cellular response, induces the expression of MMPs which reduce collagen synthesis while abnormally accumulating elastic fibers and proteoglycans.

In addition, tobacco leads to asphyxiated, dehydrated and malnourished skin:

- tobacco, especially nicotine and carbon monoxide, reduces blood flow by vasoconstriction: the circulation of oxygen and antioxidant nutrients is greatly reduced and the cell is asphyxiated; - tobacco also induces oxidative stress and inactivation of vitamin A, known to have an effective anti-aging effect, and vitamin C, which contributes greatly to the production of collagen.

The skin of smokers or smokers thus has particular characteristics related to tobacco consumption, which differentiates them from other aged skin, especially photo-aged skins. In addition, cigarette smoke contains sticky and fatty particles and molecules, mainly nicotine, which deposit on the face and form a film characteristic of the skins of smokers that prevents optimal and adapted action of the active ingredients. The skins of smokers also suffer the harmful effect of burning mainly on the contours of the mouth but also on the face.

All these characteristics lead to dermatological damage of an aesthetic order, especially in women, which are manifested in particular in the face by:

- the appearance of dark circles and puffiness in the eyes,

dehydration and the appearance of fine lines on the lips,

- a gray complexion and pigment spots,

- clogged pores, the appearance of cysts and comedones, and - the appearance of early deep wrinkles.

All these manifestations are unpleasant and unsightly, and all the more so in our modern societies where we look for an ever younger and healthier appearance.

In addition, the particular condition of the skin of smokers or smokers may also be responsible for dermatological conditions such as acne, palmoplantar pustulosis, lupus erythematosus, eczema, papillomavirus infections, dermatitis and dermatitis. psoriasis. Currently, there are many anti-aging cosmetics designed to combat one or more of these visible signs of aging skin. However, the Applicant has found that none of these products was adapted and optimized, and therefore satisfactory in terms of effectiveness on the particular skins of smokers.

There is therefore a real and important need for a solution specifically adapted to the skin problems of smokers or smokers.

It is the objective of the present invention to propose the use of a particular composition which makes it possible both to act on the visible manifestations of early cutaneous aging caused by tobacco and to play a role in the prevention of the appearance skin diseases related to tobacco, while taking into account the characteristics of the skins of smokers or smokers. For this purpose, the invention aims in particular at a composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peel agent, for its use as a composition for topical skin application intended to improve the quality of the facial skin of smokers or smokers, to combat cutaneous manifestations related to smoking, and / or to prevent the occurrence of tobacco-related skin diseases.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and treatment of the human skin of smokers or smokers.

Advantageously, the combination in the same product of a surface peel agent and a cosmetic active ingredient and / or dermatological is particularly suitable for cutaneous problems related to smoking. The superficial soft peel removes particles and molecules present on the surface of the skin without attacking the skin, and allows an immediate penetration and optimized cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient in the cells of the skin to exercise its targeted action.

Other features and advantages will become apparent from the following detailed description of the invention.

The invention therefore aims at the use of a topically applied skin composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peel agent, to improve the quality of the facial skin of smokers and smokers, the fight against cutaneous manifestations related to smoking and / or the prevention of tobacco-related skin diseases.

The term "cutaneous topical application composition" means any composition intended to be applied locally to the skin, in particular a cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. The composition may be in any galenic form suitable for topical administration to the skin. It can be in particular in the form of solutions, aqueous gels, suspensions or emulsions and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, paste or foam. By superficial peeling agent is meant any chemical, biological or enzymatic agent having a superficial peeling action at the level of the epidermis, as opposed to a semi-deep or deep peel or a mechanical peel. The surface peel agent (s) present in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from fruit acids, fruit enzymes, salicylic acid or glycolic acid. Preferentially, the superficial peel agent is salicylic acid or the enzyme papain, a proteolytic enzyme that selectively degrades the corneodesmosales bonds between damaged and dead cells. As an illustration, the concentration of peeling agent in the composition may be between 0.2 and 7% by weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 and 4%.

In combination with the superficial peel agent, the composition comprises one or more active ingredient (s) cosmetic (s) or dermatological (s), preferably at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

The moisturizing active ingredient may especially be chosen from collagen, algae (brown, red, rich in sil icon), vegetable moisturizers such as aloe vera or mauve, for example, amino acids, fatty acids or oils such as hazelnut oil for example.

Preferably, the hydrating active ingredient is hyaluronic acid, more preferably of low molecular weight.

The composition according to the invention may also contain, preferentially in addition to the moisturizing active ingredient, one or more cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients having an effect:

anti-wrinkles, for example palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, known under the trade name Matrixyl®, brown or red algae, retinol, Q10, and / or

anti-wrinkles, for example resveratrol, and / or

anti-inflammatory, for example resveratrol, and / or

anti-free radical, for example polyphenols, vitamins A, C or E, and / or

- promoting drainage and microcirculation, for example a red vine extract, lemongrass, Lysine aspartate, holly or caffeine. The active ingredient (s) are very preferably present at the maximum concentration of optimization of the asset, according to the tests and results of the supplier. This high concentration makes it possible to obtain an effect adapted to cutaneous cells aged and damaged by cigarette smoke. The composition also comprises, in addition to the peeling agent and the active ingredient (s), a physiologically acceptable medium that does not cause unacceptable discomfort to the user, such as redness, tightness or tingling. It may contain as adjuvant, for example, an oil, a wax, a surfactant, a thickener or gelling agent, a humectant, a perfume, etc.

The composition can be obtained conventionally by mixing the constituents, and according to the recommendations known to those skilled in the art for the various elements that compose it.

According to the invention, the composition is particularly useful for treating cutaneous problems related to smoking. The superficial soft peel allows the active ingredients to penetrate immediately into the skin cells in sufficient quantity to have a very good efficiency.

The composition makes it possible both to eliminate the particles or molecules that form a film on the skin of smokers and to improve the quality of the skin by targeting specific cutaneous manifestations related to the premature aging of the skin caused by tobacco. In particular, it allows:

- moisturize the lips, and / or

- prevent or fight against fine lines in the lips, and / or - prevent or fight against puffiness and dark circles in the eyes, and / or

to prevent or fight against the appearance of early wrinkles in the cheekbones and eyes, and / or

- to improve the texture of the skin, and / or

- to improve the complexion, and / or

to prevent and / or fight against the appearance of pigmentary spots. The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic skin care method, which consists in applying to the skin of smokers or smokers, the composition described above, the active ingredient being a cosmetic active ingredient.

According to a variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied to the lips and / or the contour of the lips of smokers or smokers, to prevent or fight against the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers who have a high dehydration of the lips and the appearance of premature wrinkles and fine lines in the upper lip.

Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peeling agent, a moisturizing active agent and an anti-wrinkle active ingredient.

The composition may for example comprise the combination of at least:

- papain,

hyaluronic acid, and

palmitoyl pentapeptide-3.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is used for an application on the lips, using an applicator device comprising a mouthpiece with spongers exfoliating in sil icon.

This application also eliminates dead cells present on the skin of the lips and / or the contour of the lips, and further improve the effectiveness of the composition.

Advantageously, the device can have the format of a stick or a pen, and can be easily transported for an application several times a day.

Preferably the composition is applied at least 3 times a day on the lips or the contour of the lips. Even more preferentially, it is applied at least twice a day on the lips, and once before bedtime.

According to a second variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied to the entire face of smokers or smokers, in masks to be posed and then rinsed, to prevent and / or fight against encrusted and asphyxiated pores, poor circulation, dehydration and / or discolouration of the skin. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers by de-scaling pores, rehydrating the skin of the face and illuminating the complexion.

Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peeling agent, a moisturizing active ingredient and a desquamating physical agent (mechanical exfoliation).

The composition may for example comprise the combination of at least:

- salicylic acid,

hyaluronic acid,

- fine ground seeds of reason and / or synthetic beads for (e) s a mechanical peeling of the skin.

The composition may also contain a purifying agent, such as clay, and an astringent, such as lavender.

The composition is used for an application on the face in the form of an exfoliating mask.

Preferably, the application of the mask is divided into several stages:

- apply the composition on the face and neck moistened, gently exfoliating to peel off the particles with a chemical peel and a mechanical peeling,

- leave the mask for 10 to 20 minutes to treat and let the active ingredients present in the mask,

- rinse, preferably with lukewarm water, abundantly. For best results, the mask should be applied at least once a week to the entire face and neck.

According to a third variant of the invention, the composition may be used to be applied around the eyes of smokers or smokers to prevent or fight against dark circles, puffiness, wrinkles and / or fine lines. It aims in particular to meet the specific needs of smokers or smokers who have a poor microcirculation responsible for the appearance of dark circles and puffiness, and early wrinkles located around the eyes.

Such a composition comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, an anti-wrinkle active principle, an anti-free radical active ingredient, and at least one microcirculatory active ingredient promoting drainage and a moisturizing active ingredient.

The composition may for example comprise the combination of at least:

- salicylic acid or papain,

resveratrol,

- polyphenols of green tea or grapes,

- red vine or caffeine, and

lemongrass or lysine aspartate.

The composition is used for an application at the level of the eye contour, for example using an applicator device comprising a tip with a brush or roll-on. Advantageously, this allows a localized and soft application at the level of an area with thin and fragile skin. A small tube-shaped tube with a brush-shaped tip is preferred because it can be easily transported for application several times a day.

Preferably the composition is applied at least once a day, preferably 2 on the eye contour. The invention is now illustrated by an example of non-limiting composition of the results of a test carried out with this example.

The exemplary composition according to the invention comprises the following elements:

- Glycerin codex (Interchimie) 2.5%

- Refined hazelnut oil (ennagram) 1.8%

- Solagum AX (Seppic) 1%

- Emulium Kappa 2ECH (Gattefosse) 6%

- FANCOR ABYSSINIAN oil (interactive) 2,5%

- Shea butter (interactive) 3, 8%

- Lanette 16 (friend) 1,8%

- Microcare emollient CLG (Thor) 0.5%

- Tri caprylate (interchimie) 3, 2%

- Cetiol CC (friend) 3, 2%

- Inolex lexfeel natural (Saci) 1.8%

- Phenoxetol (sed) 0.5%

- Vanatural (Lavolee) 1%

- Matrixyl 3000 (Sederma) 3%

- Copherol F 1300C (Friend) 0.1%

- Renovhyal (Soliance) 0.3%

- Lip care ref 1108076 0,1%

(scented expressions)

- Peelmoist (Lipotec) 4.8%

- Water qs 100%.

Such a composition is particularly suitable for application to the lips and the lip contour of smokers or smokers.

Tests have been conducted to demonstrate the effectiveness of this composition on the skin of smokers. The purpose of the study is to evaluate the hydration and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the composition on the skin of smokers after 28 days of application. The study was conducted on 20 women aged 45 to 65 years smoking at least 7 cigarettes a day and having wrinkles on the upper lip.

The composition is administered using a device of an applicator device comprising a tip with silicone exfoliating pegs. Each dose administered corresponds to 0.1 ml of composition.

The operating protocol consists of applying for 28 days:

- the day: 3 doses on the lips 4 times a day (in the morning, at 10 o'clock, at 12 o'clock and at 6 o'clock)

- in the evening: apply 3 doses on the lips and 2 doses on the contour of the lips

The efficacy of the product is evaluated on D0, D7, D14 and D28.

The evaluated and measured parameters are:

- skin hydration index by a clinical instrumental evaluation (CO NEOMETE ® method)

- the roughness and the wrinkles by image analysis (prof ilometry of the skin, use of Primos 3D) The average of the results obtained is presented in the table below in percentage of variation compared to the results obtained with J0:

These results show that the composition according to the invention applied to the skin of smokers under the conditions of the test makes it possible to moisturize the lips and reduce the fine lines of the upper lip associated with tobacco.

Claims

A composition comprising the combination of at least one cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient and at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic superficial peel agent, for use as a topically applied composition for improving the quality of the skin. the skin of the face of smokers or smokers, to fight the cutaneous manifestations related to smoking and / or to prevent the appearance of tobacco-related skin diseases.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient is a skin hydrating active ingredient.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical agent, biological or enzymatic superficial peel and at least two active ingredients and cosmetic and / or dermatological :

a moisturizing active ingredient, and

an active principle anti-wrinkle and / or anti-wrinkle and / or anti-inflammatory skin and / or anti-radical and / or promoting drainage and microcirculation.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, for use as a composition for application to the lips and / or the contour of the lips to prevent or fight against wrinkles or fine lines in smokers or having smoked.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, a moisturizing active ingredient and an anti-wrinkle active principle.

6. Composition according to one of claims 4 or 5, for use as a composition for topical application using an applicator device comprising a tip with silicone sticks.

7. Composition according to one of claims 4 to 6 for its use as a composition to be applied at least 3 times per day at the lips and / or the contour of the lips of smokers or smokers.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 for its use as a mask application composition on the face to prevent or fight against encrusted and asphyxiated pores, poor circulation, dehydration and alteration of complexion. the facial skin of smokers or smokers.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical agent, biological or enzymatic superficial peel, a moisturizing active ingredient and a desquamating physical agent.

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, for use as a composition to be applied as a mask at least once a week to the entire face and neck of smokers or smokers.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, for use as an application composition around the eyes to prevent or fight against dark circles, wrinkles and / or fine lines of smokers or smokers.

12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one chemical, biological or enzymatic surface peeling agent, an anti-wrinkle active principle, an anti-radical active ingredient, a microcirculatory active principle promoting drainage and a moisturizing active ingredient.

13. Cosmetic process for the care of human skin, intended to improve the quality of the skin of smokers or smokers, including the application topical composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, the active ingredient of the composition being a cosmetic active ingredient.

14. A cosmetic method for the care of human skin according to claim 13, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin only the composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, the active ingredient of the composition being an active ingredient. cosmetic, both to eliminate particles or molecules that form a film on the skin of smokers and to improve the quality of the skin by targeting the specific cutaneous manifestations related to the premature aging of the skin caused by tobacco, in particular:

- moisturize the lips, and / or

- prevent or fight against fine lines in the lips, and / or

- prevent or fight against puffiness and dark circles in the eyes, and / or

- prevent or fight against the appearance of early wrinkles in the cheekbones and eyes, and / or

- improve skin texture, and / or

- improve the complexion, and / or

- prevent and / or fight against the appearance of pigmentary spots.