FR3034667A1 - COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AGAINST ACNE - Google Patents
COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION AGAINST ACNE Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3034667A1 FR3034667A1 FR1500752A FR1500752A FR3034667A1 FR 3034667 A1 FR3034667 A1 FR 3034667A1 FR 1500752 A FR1500752 A FR 1500752A FR 1500752 A FR1500752 A FR 1500752A FR 3034667 A1 FR3034667 A1 FR 3034667A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- composition
- polysaccharide
- acne
- weight
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K35/00—Medicinal preparations containing materials or reaction products thereof with undetermined constitution
- A61K35/02—Medicinal preparations containing materials or reaction products thereof with undetermined constitution from inanimate materials
- A61K35/08—Mineral waters; Sea water
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K31/715—Polysaccharides, i.e. having more than five saccharide radicals attached to each other by glycosidic linkages; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ethers, esters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Pharmaceuticals Containing Other Organic And Inorganic Compounds (AREA)
Abstract
L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique destinée au traitement des peaux acnéiques. Elle comprend à titre de principe actif un mélange d'eau thermale et d'un polysaccharide de structure branchée comprenant du rhamnose, du glucose et de l'acide glucuronique, les autres ingrédients étant constitués par des composés admissibles dans les domaines cosmétique et/ou dermatologique et/ou thérapeutique, l'eau thermale étant présente selon un pourcentage de 0,8 à 55% en masse et le polysaccharide selon un pourcentage en masse de 0,3 à 10%.The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for the treatment of acne skin. It comprises as active ingredient a mixture of thermal water and a branched structure of polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, glucose and glucuronic acid, the other ingredients being constituted by compounds that are acceptable in the cosmetic and / or dermatological and / or therapeutic, the thermal water being present in a percentage of 0.8 to 55% by weight and the polysaccharide in a percentage by mass of 0.3 to 10%.
Description
1 Le secteur technique de la présente invention est celui des compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques destinées aux soins de la peau sujette à l'acné. Dans le domaine de l'acné, on cherche à réguler les 5 facteurs impliqués dans le processus inflammatoire des peaux grasses à tendance acnéique. Ces facteurs sont les ribotypes RT4 et RT5 de Propionibacterium acnes. En effet, certaines espèces de bactéries commensales peuvent devenir des pathogènes opportunistes sous l'influence 10 de modifications de leur environnement. Des études récentes sur le microbiome (composition génomique d'origine microbienne présente dans un milieu) de la peau ont montré que l'analyse du ribotype bactérien, déterminé par la recherche et séquençage des ADNr16S, peut /5 indiquer le caractère commensal ou pathogène de la bactérie. Il peut également être un indicateur de résistance aux traitements. Le ribotype bactérien peut apporter des indications sur le métabolisme de la bactérie et son potentiel à sécréter 20 telles ou telles enzymes, protéines ou autres molécules. En fonction de leur ribotype, les bactéries peuvent produire un biofilm propice à leur bon développement et qui favorisera leur adhérence. Le biofilm est présent sur la partie superficielle de 25 l'épiderme et dans les canaux et orifices des annexes cutanées (pores des glandes pilosébacés, pores des glandes sudorales et sudoripares). Les bactéries microbiote (espèces de microorganismes vivants dans un milieu) et le biofilm peuvent être regroupés 30 sous la dénomination «Micro-biofilm Les études bibliographiques récentes à partir de prélèvements bactériens issus de peaux pathologiques et de peaux saines et après identification du Ribotype par analyse des ADNr16S issus de ces prélèvements permettent de faire le 35 lien entre le ribotype et la pathogénicité ou non des bactéries. Forest Fizt Gibbon et al., J Invest Dermatol, 133(9), 2152-2160 de septembre 2013, ont étudié le génome de 3034667 2 nombreuses souches bactériennes provenant de glandes pilosébacées de patients acnéiques ou en bonne santé. Ils concluent à une très forte proportion de Propionibacterium acnes (87% des espèces de bactéries) dans 5 les deux populations de sujets sains et acnéiques. En étudiant la répartition dans ces deux populations des différents ribotypes (RT1 à RT10) de Propionibacterium acnes, on n'observe pas de différences pour les Ribotypes RT1, 2 et 3, mais une présence spécifique de Ribotypes RT4 et RT5 chez 10 les acnéiques et une présence spécifique de RT6 chez les sujets sains. L'analyse des Ribotypes RT4 et RT5 montre la présence de loci/gènes spécifiques Tad (Tight adhesion -> virulence) et Sag (hémolytique -> pathogénicité) qui semble provenir de /5 plasmides ou ADN étrangers. Par contre, l'analyse de RT2 et RT6 montre un génome bien protégé vis-à-vis d'une invasion de plasmides ou ADN étranger. D'autre part, la pathogénicité du Propionibacterium acnes 20 a été corrélée à son activité lipasique qui induit de l'irritation cutanée (S. Higaki, J.Dermatol., vol.27, n°8, pp 519-522, 2000). L'étude A. McDowell (PLOS one, vol.8,pp 1-22, sept.2013), par l'analyse génotypique (MLST) de souches de 25 Propionibacterium acnes, a permis d'associer à la virulence bactérienne la présence de gènes, notamment «CAMP2 » (cohaemolytic, hijack sphingomyelinase -> invasion et dégradation du tissu). L'étude a mis en évidence, la présence majoritaire du 30 phylotype IA1 dans les lésions d'acné et l'expression de possibles facteurs de virulence telle que des Adhésines à dermatan sulfate. Il semble y avoir une correspondance entre les phylotypes IA1 et IC (MLST) et ribotype RT5 (ADNr16S). L'étude I.Dekio, Biomed - 2013 a permis d'associer des 35 profils d'expression protéique différents selon les conditions de cultures (aérobie ou anaérobie) de trois phylogroupes (I, II et III) de Propionibacterium acnes. 3034667 3 L'anaérobiose favorise notamment pour le phylotype IB l'expression de CAMP, de C4-type (lectines), d'antioxydant, de production d'acide gras courte chaîne (acide propionique). En conclusion, on peut imaginer que l'environnement 5 anaérobie pourrait modifier le phylotype et ribotype du P.acnès qui deviendrait dans ces conditions un pathogène opportuniste. On peut également imaginer qu'au contact d'autres microorganismes, une modification du génome débouche sur un 10 phylotype et ribotype pathogène. Ainsi, ces études antérieures ont montré les facteurs à prendre en considération dans le traitement de l'acné mais aucune proposition de soin n'a été formulée. C'est pourquoi le but de la présente invention est de /5 fournir une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique permettant d'accéder directement aux ribotypes afin de réguler leur virulence. L'invention a donc pour objet une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique destinée au traitement des peaux 20 acnéiques, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend à titre de principe actif un mélange d'eau thermale et d'un polysaccharide de structure branchée comprenant du rhamnose, du glucose et de l'acide glucuronique, les autres ingrédients étant constitués par des composés admissibles dans les 25 domaines cosmétique et/ou dermatologique et/ou thérapeutique. Selon une caractéristique de l'invention, l'eau thermale est présente selon un pourcentage de 0,8 à 55% en masse et le polysaccharide selon un pourcentage en masse de 0,3 à 10%. Selon une autre caractéristique de l'invention, l'eau 30 thermale est une eau minérale comprenant : - entre 40 mg/1 et 600 mg/1 de calcium, et/ou de sels et/ou de dérivés de celui-ci, - entre 12,5 mg/1 et 125 mg/1 de magnésium, et/ou de sels et/ou de dérivés de celui-ci, 35 - entre 0,455 mg/1 et 45,5 mg/1 de potassium, et/ou de sels et/ou de dérivés de celui-ci, - entre 23,6 mg/1 et 2360 mg/1 de sodium, et/ou de sels et/ou de dérivés de celui-ci. 3034667 4 Selon encore une autre caractéristique de l'invention, la composition comprend 0,8% en masse d'eau thermale et 0,3% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux mixtes.The technical field of the present invention is that of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for skin care prone to acne. In the field of acne, it is sought to regulate the factors involved in the inflammatory process of oily skin with acne tendency. These factors are the RT4 and RT5 ribotypes of Propionibacterium acnes. Indeed, some species of commensal bacteria can become opportunistic pathogens under the influence of changes in their environment. Recent studies on the microbiome (genomic composition of microbial origin present in a medium) of the skin have shown that the analysis of the bacterial ribotype, determined by the research and sequencing of the 16S rDNA, can indicate the commensal or pathogenic nature of the skin. the bacteria. It can also be an indicator of resistance to treatments. The bacterial ribotype can provide insights into the metabolism of the bacterium and its potential to secrete such or such enzymes, proteins or other molecules. Depending on their ribotype, bacteria can produce a biofilm conducive to their proper development and promote their adhesion. The biofilm is present on the superficial part of the epidermis and in the canals and orifices of the cutaneous appendages (pores of the pilosebaceous glands, pores of the sweat glands and sweat glands). Microbiota bacteria (species of microorganisms living in a medium) and the biofilm can be grouped under the name "Micro-Biofilm. Recent Bibliographic Studies Using Bacterial Samples Derived from Diseased Skins and Healthy Skins and After Identification of the Ribotype by Analysis 16S rDNAs from these samples make it possible to make the link between the ribotype and the pathogenicity or otherwise of the bacteria. Forest Fizt Gibbon et al., J Invest Dermatol, 133 (9), 2152-2160 of September 2013, studied the genome of many bacterial strains from pilosebaceous glands of acne or healthy patients. They conclude a very high proportion of Propionibacterium acnes (87% of the bacterial species) in both populations of healthy subjects and acne. By studying the distribution in these two populations of the different ribotypes (RT1 to RT10) of Propionibacterium acnes, no differences are observed for the Ribotypes RT1, 2 and 3, but a specific presence of RT4 and RT5 Ribotypes in 10 acne and a specific presence of RT6 in healthy subjects. The analysis of the RT4 and RT5 Ribotypes shows the presence of specific Tad (Tight adhesion -> virulence) and Sag (hemolytic -> pathogenicity) loci / genes that appear to come from foreign plasmids or DNAs. On the other hand, the analysis of RT2 and RT6 shows a well protected genome vis-à-vis an invasion of plasmids or foreign DNA. On the other hand, the pathogenicity of Propionibacterium acnes has been correlated with its lipase activity which induces skin irritation (S. Higaki, J. Dermatol., Vol.27, No. 8, pp 519-522, 2000). . The A. McDowell study (PLOS one, vol. 8, pp 1-22, Sept.2013), by genotypic analysis (MLST) of strains of Propionibacterium acnes, made it possible to associate with bacterial virulence the presence of genes, in particular "CAMP2" (cohaemolytic, hijack sphingomyelinase -> invasion and tissue degradation). The study has shown the predominant presence of the IA1 phylotype in acne lesions and the expression of possible virulence factors such as dermatan sulfate adhesins. There appears to be a correspondence between IA1 and IC (MLST) and RT5 ribotype (16S rDNA) phylotypes. The I.Dekio, Biomed-2013 study allowed to associate different protein expression profiles according to the culture conditions (aerobic or anaerobic) of three phylogroups (I, II and III) of Propionibacterium acnes. Anaerobiosis promotes, especially for phylotype IB, the expression of CAMP, C4-type (lectins), antioxidant, production of short chain fatty acid (propionic acid). In conclusion, it can be imagined that the anaerobic environment could modify the P. acnes phylotype and ribotype, which would become an opportunistic pathogen under these conditions. One can also imagine that in contact with other microorganisms, a genome modification leads to a phylotype and pathogenic ribotype. Thus, these previous studies have shown the factors to be considered in the treatment of acne but no care proposal has been formulated. This is why the object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition allowing direct access to the ribotypes in order to regulate their virulence. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of acne skin, characterized in that it comprises, as active principle, a mixture of thermal water and a branched structure polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, glucose and glucuronic acid, the other ingredients being constituted by compounds that are acceptable in the cosmetic and / or dermatological and / or therapeutic fields. According to one characteristic of the invention, the thermal water is present in a percentage of 0.8 to 55% by weight and the polysaccharide in a percentage by weight of 0.3 to 10% by weight. According to another characteristic of the invention, the thermal water is a mineral water comprising: between 40 mg / l and 600 mg / l of calcium, and / or salts and / or derivatives thereof; between 12.5 mg / l and 125 mg / l magnesium, and / or salts and / or derivatives thereof, 35 - between 0.455 mg / l and 45.5 mg / l of potassium, and / or salts and / or derivatives thereof, - between 23.6 mg / l and 2360 mg / l sodium, and / or salts and / or derivatives thereof. According to another characteristic of the invention, the composition comprises 0.8% by weight of thermal water and 0.3% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being capable of treating mixed skin.
La composition peut donc comprendre 8% en masse d'eau thermale et 0,9% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux à tendance acnéique. La composition peut également comprendre 12% en masse /0 d'eau thermale et 1,5% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux à tendance acné ique. La composition peut encore comprendre 22% en masse d'eau thermale et 3,5% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite /5 composition étant apte à traiter les peaux mixtes grasses. La composition peut encore comprendre 27% en masse d'eau thermale et 5,5% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux mixtes grasses. La composition peut encore comprendre 33% en masse d'eau 20 thermale et 6,3% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux mixtes grasses. La composition peut encore comprendre 52% en masse d'eau thermale et 9,5% en masse de polysaccharide, ladite composition étant apte à traiter les peaux mixtes grasses.The composition may therefore comprise 8% by weight of thermal water and 0.9% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being able to treat acne-prone skin. The composition may also comprise 12% by weight / 0 of thermal water and 1.5% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being able to treat acne-prone skin. The composition may further comprise 22% by weight of thermal water and 3.5% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being capable of treating combination oily skin. The composition may further comprise 27% by weight of thermal water and 5.5% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being capable of treating combination oily skin. The composition may further comprise 33% by weight of thermal water and 6.3% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being suitable for treating oily combination skins. The composition may further comprise 52% by weight of thermal water and 9.5% by weight of polysaccharide, said composition being capable of treating combination oily skin.
25 Un tout premier avantage de la présente invention réside dans la régulation de la virulence de deux facteurs, ribotypes RT4 et RT5, à l'aide d'une combinaison d'eau thermale et d'un polysaccharide. Un autre avantage réside dans la grande variété de 30 préparations soignantes comprenant ces deux principes actifs. D'autres caractéristiques, avantages et détails de l'invention seront mieux compris à la lecture du complément de description qui va suivre de modes de réalisation donnés à titre d'exemple.A very first advantage of the present invention lies in the regulation of the virulence of two factors, RT4 and RT5 ribotypes, using a combination of thermal water and a polysaccharide. Another advantage is the wide variety of care preparations comprising these two active ingredients. Other characteristics, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood on reading the additional description which follows of embodiments given by way of example.
35 Comme indiqué précédemment, le demandeur propose pour la première fois une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprenant nouveau complexe d'actifs régulant deux facteurs impliqués dans le processus inflammatoire des peaux grasses à 3034667 5 tendance acnéiques, les Ribotypes RT4 et les ribotypes RT5 de Propionibacterium acnes en régulant la virulence des Ribotypes 4 et des Ribotypes 5 de Propionibacterium acnes. Cette composition comprend comme principe actif : 5 - de l'Eau thermale comme par exemple l'eau thermale d'Uriage, d'Avène, de La Roche Posay ou de Saint-Gervais, - d'un polysaccharide d'origine biotechnologique connu sous la désignation commerciale Téflose® qui est une structure branchée comprenant du rhamnose, du glucose et de 10 l'acide glucuronique. L'Eau thermale d'Uriage, elle, a déjà démontré des activités hydratante, apaisante, antiradicalaire et protectrice de la barrière superficielle de la peau (couche cornée et couche granuleuse). /5 Des études récentes ont montré que l'eau thermale d'Uriage est capable de rendre antagoniste les effets pro-virulents de la Substance P (neuropeptide pouvant être présent sur la peau). Le mécanisme d'action de l'Eau thermale d'Uriage n'a pas 20 été élucidé. Le Téflose est un composé de nature osidique mais n'est pas un prébiotique. Il pourrait avoir un rôle de modulateur de la réponse inflammatoire de par sa capacité à interagir avec les lectines des kératinocytes.As indicated previously, the applicant proposes for the first time a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a new active complex that regulates two factors involved in the inflammatory process of acne-prone fatty skin, RT4 Ribotypes and RT5 ribotypes. Propionibacterium acnes by regulating the virulence of Ribotypes 4 and Ribotypes 5 of Propionibacterium acnes. This composition comprises as active principle: 5 - thermal water such as thermal water Uriage, Avène, La Roche Posay or Saint-Gervais, - a polysaccharide of biotechnological origin known as the trade name Teflose® which is a branched structure comprising rhamnose, glucose and glucuronic acid. Uriage Thermal Water has already demonstrated moisturizing, soothing, antiradical and protective activities of the superficial barrier of the skin (stratum corneum and granular layer). / 5 Recent studies have shown that Uriage thermal water is able to antagonize the pro-virulent effects of Substance P (neuropeptide that may be present on the skin). The mechanism of action of Uriage Thermal Water has not been elucidated. Teflose is a compound of osidic nature but is not a prebiotic. It could act as a modulator of the inflammatory response by its ability to interact with keratinocyte lectins.
25 D'après le fabricant, ce polysaccharide est également capable d'inhiber l'adhésion des bactéries indésirables à la surface cutanée. En sa présence, S. epidermidis et S. aureus voient leur capacité à former des biofilms fortement diminuée.According to the manufacturer, this polysaccharide is also capable of inhibiting the adhesion of undesirable bacteria to the skin surface. In its presence, S. epidermidis and S. aureus see their ability to form strongly diminished biofilms.
30 D'après toujours le fabricant, l'adhésion de S. aureus et S. epidermidis sur des épidermes reconstruits recouverts de Téflose® (4%) est diminuée de 28 et 24% respectivement. La croissance de S. epidermidis n'est pas affectée par la présence du Téflose, il est probable que ce polysaccharide ne 35 soit pas assimilable par la souche. On retrouve aussi un effet antagoniste du Téflose sur l'adhésion et la formation de biofilm par Propionibacterium acnes.According to the manufacturer, the adhesion of S. aureus and S. epidermidis to reconstructed epidermis covered with Teflose® (4%) is decreased by 28% and 24%, respectively. The growth of S. epidermidis is not affected by the presence of Teflose, it is likely that this polysaccharide is not assimilable by the strain. There is also an antagonistic effect of Teflose on adhesion and biofilm formation by Propionibacterium acnes.
3034667 6 On va étudier ci-après les ribotypes RT4 et RT5 de propioni bacterium acnes. L'objectif, tout à fait nouveau de cette étude, est d'étudier l'impact de deux principes actifs et de leur 5 association sur la croissance et la cytotoxicité de nouvelles souches de Propioni bacterium acnes de ribotype 4 (RT4) et de ribotype 5 (RT5). En effet, ces souches RT4 et RT5 sont issues de glandes pilosébacées de peaux acnéiques et sont spécifiques à ces lésions d'acné. On ne retrouve pas ces souches dans les zones saines. Elles expriment des caractères de virulence, deviennent des pathogènes opportunistes et participent à la formation des lésions acnéiques. Jusqu'à présent les études réalisées sur Propioni /5 bacterium acnes ne prenaient pas en considération le caractère génotypique des souches. Les souches provenaient très souvent de zones saines, faisant partie de la flore commensale donc sans caractère de virulence. D'une part, l'étude entreprise dans l'invention a 20 consisté à analyser l'effet sur la croissance in tubo (mesure de la densité optique) des souches RT4 et RT5 de Propioni bacterium acnes : - le Téflose (à 1%) a démontré un effet réduisant la croissance des souches RT4 et RT5, 25 - l'Eau thermale (à 10% et à 30%) n'a pas d'effet sur la croissance de ces deux souches. D'autre part, l'étude entreprise dans l'invention a consisté à analyser l'effet sur la cytotoxicité sur des kératinocytes HaCat (mesure de Lactate deshydrogenase) des 30 souches RT4 et RT5 de Propioni bacterium acnes : - le Téflose (à 1%) n'a pas démontré d'effet réduisant la cytotoxicité des souches RT4 et RT5, - l'Eau thermale (à 10% et à 30%) diminue la cytotoxicité de ces deux souches.The RT4 and RT5 ribotypes of propionic bacterium acnes will be studied hereinafter. The objective, quite new to this study, is to study the impact of two active ingredients and their association on the growth and cytotoxicity of new strains of Propioni bacterium acnes of ribotype 4 (RT4) and ribotype 5 (RT5). Indeed, these strains RT4 and RT5 are derived from pilosebaceous glands of acne skin and are specific to these acne lesions. These strains are not found in healthy areas. They express virulence, become opportunistic pathogens and participate in the formation of acne lesions. So far the studies carried out on Propioni / 5 bacterium acnes did not take into account the genotypic character of the strains. The strains very often came from healthy areas, forming part of the commensal flora and therefore without virulence. On the one hand, the study undertaken in the invention consisted in analyzing the effect on growth in tubo (measurement of the optical density) of the RT4 and RT5 strains of Propioni bacterium acnes: - Teflose (at 1% ) demonstrated an effect reducing the growth of strains RT4 and RT5, - Thermal water (at 10% and 30%) has no effect on the growth of these two strains. On the other hand, the study undertaken in the invention consisted in analyzing the effect on cytotoxicity on HaCat keratinocytes (Lactate dehydrogenase measurement) of the RT4 and RT5 strains of Propioni bacterium acnes: - Teflose (at 1 %) did not demonstrate an effect reducing the cytotoxicity of RT4 and RT5 strains, - Thermal Water (at 10% and 30%) decreases the cytotoxicity of these two strains.
35 On comprend donc tout l'intérêt de l'invention qui montre l'avantage d'associer le Téflose et l'eau thermale, l'Eau thermale d'Uriage par exemple, pour agir à la fois sur la 3034667 7 croissance et la cytotoxicité des souches RT4 et RT5 de Propioni bacterium acnes. Ces associations pourraient ainsi mener vers de nouvelles pistes de soins cosmétiques et dermatologiques, lorsque ces 5 souches RT4 et RT5 sont présentes sur ou dans l'organisme des patients. Il est évident pour l'homme de l'art que des eaux minérales équivalentes à l'eau thermale d'Uriage peuvent être utilisées si elles sont utilisées dans des proportions 10 adéquates pour les éléments importants soulignés ci-dessus ou les sels et dérivés de ceux-ci. Ainsi, on peut très bien utiliser dans des proportions adéquates l'Eau Thermale d'Avène commercialisée par la société Pierre Fabre, qui comprend 42,7 mg/L de calcium, 21,2 mg/L de magnésium, 4,8 /5 mg/L de sodium, ou l'Eau Thermale de La Roche-Posay commercialisée par la société La Roche-Posay, qui comprend 140 mg/L de calcium, ou encore l'Eau Thermale de Saint-Gervais, qui comprend 236 mg/L de calcium, 28,1 mg/L de magnésium, 29,9 mg/L de potassium et 982 mg/L de sodium.It is therefore clear that the advantage of the invention shows the advantage of associating Teflose with thermal water, for example Uriage Thermal Water, to act both on the growth and on the growth. cytotoxicity of RT4 and RT5 strains of Propioni bacterium acnes. These associations could thus lead to new tracks of cosmetic and dermatological care, when these 5 strains RT4 and RT5 are present on or in the body of patients. It is obvious to those skilled in the art that mineral waters equivalent to Uriage thermal water can be used if they are used in suitable proportions for the important elements outlined above or the salts and derivatives thereof. them. Thus, one can very well use in appropriate proportions Avene Thermal Water marketed by Pierre Fabre, which comprises 42.7 mg / l of calcium, 21.2 mg / l of magnesium, 4.8 / 5 mg / L of sodium, or the Thermal Water of La Roche-Posay marketed by the company La Roche-Posay, which includes 140 mg / L of calcium, or the Thermal Water of Saint-Gervais, which includes 236 mg / L calcium, 28.1 mg / L magnesium, 29.9 mg / L potassium and 982 mg / L sodium.
20 Typiquement, le calcium et le magnésium sont naturellement présents dans les eaux minérales utilisées dans l'invention selon un rapport massique respectif Ca/Mg compris entre 1 à 10. Il est tout à fait possible de combiner l'eau minérale 25 comprise dans les compositions selon l'invention avec d'autres principes actifs efficaces dans le traitement de la peau enflammée, irritée comme par exemple : Extrait de lentille (LENS ESCULENTA FRUIT EXTRACT) Extrait de réglisse (GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT) 30 Extrait de figue de barbarie (OPUNTIA FICUS INDICA STEM EXTRACT) Extrait d'épilobe (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT) Extrait de centella asiatica (ASIATICOSIDE) 35 Lactate de zinc (ZINC LACTATE) Glycocolle (GLYCINE) On prépare de manière identique ou équivalente les compositions suivantes.Typically, calcium and magnesium are naturally present in the mineral waters used in the invention in a respective Ca / Mg mass ratio of 1 to 10. It is quite possible to combine the mineral water included in compositions according to the invention with other active ingredients effective in the treatment of inflamed, irritated skin such as for example: lentil extract (LENS ESCULENTA FRUIT EXTRACT) liquorice extract (GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT) 30 Prickly pear extract ( OPUNTIA FICUS INDICA STEM EXTRACT) Seed Extract (EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM FLOWER / LEAF / STEM EXTRACT) Centella Asiatica Extract (ASIATICOSIDE) 35 Zinc Lactate (ZINC LACTATE) Glycine (GLYCINE) The following compositions are prepared in the same or equivalent manner.
3034667 8 Pour la préparation des crèmes, il s'agit d'émulsionner à chaud (70°C) sous forte agitation deux phases non miscibles, une phase huileuse qui contient les ingrédients gras, les actifs lipophiles et les émulsionnants, et une phase aqueuse 5 qui contient les ingrédients et actifs hydrosolubles, les conservateurs. Une fois l'émulsion réalisée, l'ensemble est refroidi sous agitation lente pour être stabilisé. Pour la préparation du pain dematologique, il s'agit de mélanger l'ensemble des ingrédients pâteux et des actifs dans 10 un malaxeur/broyeur puis de l'extruder dans une boudineuse pour former une barre pâteuse et enfin de le compresser dans un moule de forme. Pour les lotions, les ingrédients et les actifs sont dispersés sous agitation en chauffant légèrement (40°C) puis /5 l'ensemble doit être bien solubilisé de manière à supprimer tous les amas et cristaux. Le gel nettoyant sera réalisé de la même manière que les lotions pour solubiliser et homogénéiser tous les ingrédients de la formule en veillant bien à ne pas agiter trop fortement 20 pour éviter la formation de mousse et l'incorporation de bulles d'air dans le gel. Exemple 1 : Crème anti-imperfections pour peaux à tendance acnéiques 25 Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) qsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 8,000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 GLYCOLIC ACID, MALIC ACID, LACTIC ACID, 30 SALICYLIC ACID 7,000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 6,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 4,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 4,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 35 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 3034667 9 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & REG-100 STEARATE 1,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 0,9000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE 0,200000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0,200000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0,200000 TOTAL 100 Exemple 2 : Crème matifiante pour peaux mixtes à grasses Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) 5 AQUA (WATER, EAU) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 27,000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 10,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 6,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & 5,500000 GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1,000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 /0 PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE 0,300000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0,300000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0,300000 3034667 10 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,200000 TOTAL 100 Exemple 3 : Crème matifiante pour peaux mixtes à grasses Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) qsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 33,000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 10,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 6,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 6,300000 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1,000000 5 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE SODIUM HYDROXIDE TOTAL 0,500000 0,500000 0,300000 0,300000 0,300000 0,200000 100 Exemple 4 : Crème matifiante pour peaux mixtes à grasses /0 Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS /5 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & qsp 100 39,000000 10,000000 10,000000 6,000000 3034667 11 POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 7,200000 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1,000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE 0,300000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0,300000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0,300000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,200000 TOTAL 100 Exemple 5 : Masque pour peaux mixtes à grasses 5 Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) qsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 22,000000 KAOLIN & ILLITE 20,000000 GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL 8,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 3,500000 MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE & XANTHAN GUM 6,000000 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL ISONONANOATE 6,000000 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) & PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 2,000000 1,2-HEXANEDIOL & CHLORPHENESIN & o-CYMEN-5-0L 1,000000 GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID & ZINC LACTATE & OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA STEM EXTRACT 1,000000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0,300000 TOTAL 100 3034667 12 Exemple 6 : Pain dermatologique pour peaux mixtes Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) 5 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH - POTASSIUM LAURYL SULFATE - CETEARYL ALCOHOL - SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE - HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL - AQUA (WATER, EAU) - TALC - GLYCINE - PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) - PIROCTONE OLAMINE - GLYCERIN 10 - PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL) - COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE - LACTIC ACID - CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) - POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE 95,000000 GLYCERIN & EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM /5 FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT 3,000000 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 0,800000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 0,900000 CI 77289 (CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN) - 20 CI 19140 (YELLOW 5) & PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 TOTAL 100 Exemple 7 : Gel nettoyant pour peaux mixtes 25 Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) qsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 12,000000 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE & SODIUM LAURETH-8 SULFATE & SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE & MAGNESIUM LAURETH SULFATE & SODIUM OLETH SULFATE & MAGNESIUM LAURETH-8 SULFATE & MAGNESIUM OLETH SULFATE & SODIUM CHLORIDE 10,000000 PEG-80 GLYCERYL COCOATE & COCO-GLUCOSIDE & GLYCERYL OLEATE 6,000000 SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE & PPG-2 HYDROXYETHYL COCAMIDE 5,000000 GLYCERIN & EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM 3034667 13 FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT 1,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 1,500000 PPG-2 HYDROXYETHYL COCO/ISOSTEARAMIDE 1,000000 5 CITRIC ACID & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 1,000000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 TOTAL 100 Exemple 8 : Lotion pour peaux mixtes à grasses 10 Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 45,000000 ALCOHOL 39,500000 GLYCOLIC ACID & MALIC ACID & LACTIC ACID & SALICYLIC ACID 7,000000 /5 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 8,100000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 TOTAL 100 20 Exemple 9 : Lotion pour peaux mixtes à grasses Ingrédients (nom INCI UE) AQUA (WATER, EAU) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 52,000000 ALCOHOL 39,500000 GLYCOLIC ACID & MALIC ACID & LACTIC ACID & 25 SALICYLIC ACID 7,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Téflose) 9,500000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) 0,500000 TOTAL 100 30 Pour démontrer l'action sur la peau des compositions selon l'invention, un test est effectué sur un modèle ex vivo d'explants de peau humaine normale.For the preparation of the creams, it is a matter of hot emulsification (70 ° C.) with vigorous stirring, two immiscible phases, an oily phase which contains the fatty ingredients, the lipophilic active agents and the emulsifiers, and an aqueous phase. Which contains the water-soluble ingredients and actives, the preservatives. Once the emulsion is completed, the whole is cooled with slow stirring to be stabilized. For the preparation of the bread, it is a question of mixing all the pasty ingredients and active ingredients in a kneader / grinder then to extrude it in a plodder to form a pasty bar and finally to compress it in a mold of form. For lotions, the ingredients and the active ingredients are dispersed with stirring while heating slightly (40 ° C.) and then the whole must be solubilized so as to remove all the clusters and crystals. The cleaning gel will be made in the same manner as the lotions to solubilize and homogenize all the ingredients of the formula, taking care not to shake too strongly to avoid the formation of foam and the incorporation of air bubbles in the gel . Example 1: Anti-imperfection cream for acne-prone skin Ingredients (INCI name EU) AQUA (WATER, WATER) qs 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 8.000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 GLYCOLIC ACID, MALIC ACID, LACTIC ACID, 30 SALICYLIC ACID 7.000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 6.000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 4,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 4,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 35 STEARETH- 2 & STEARETH-21 4.000000 3034667 9 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2.000000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 2.000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & REG-100 STEARATE 1.000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE ( Téflose) 0.9000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.500000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.500000 PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE 0.200000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0.200000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0.200000 TOTAL 100 Example 2 : Cream my tificant for combination to oily skin Ingredients (INCI name EU) 5 AQUA (WATER, WATER) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 27.000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 10,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 6,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & 5,500,000 GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (TEFLOSE) STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2.000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1.000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.500000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.500000 / 0 PHYTOSPHINGOSIN & ASIATICOSIDE 0.300000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0.300000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0.300000 3034667 10 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.200000 TOTAL 100 Example 3: Matifying cream for combination to oily skin Ingredients (INCI name EU) AQUA (WATER, WATER) qs 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 33.000000 DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE 10,000000 DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS 10,000000 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 6,000000 DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (TEFLOSE) 6,300,000 STEARETH- 2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1,000000 5 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE FRAGRANCE PHYTOSPHINGOSINE & ASIATICOSIDE LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE SODIUM HYDROXIDE TOTAL 0.500000 0.500000 0.300000 0.300000 0.300000 0.200000 100 Example 4: Mattifying cream for combination to oily skin / 0 Ingredients (EU INCI name) AQUA (WATER, WATER) AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) DI-C12-13 ALKYL MALATE DICAPRYLYL ETHER & JOJOBA ESTERS / 5 TAPIOCA STARCH & POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE DIGLYCERIN & GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL & qsp 100 39.000000 10.00 10.00 10.000000 6, 000000 30346 67 11 POLYGLYCERIN-3 5,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (TEFLOSE) 7,200,000 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER & XANTHAN GUM 2,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 1.000000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.500000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.500000 PHYTOSPHINGOSIN & ASIATICOSIDE 0.300000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0.300000 ZINC LACTATE & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 0.300000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.200000 TOTAL 100 Example 5: Mask for combination to oily skin 5 Ingredients (INCI name EU) AQUA (WATER, WATER) qs 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 22.000000 KAOLIN & ILLITE 20.000000 GLYCERIN & BUTYLENE GLYCOL 8.000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (TEFLOSE) 3.500000 MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE & XANTHAN GUM 6.000000 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL ISONONANOATE 6.000000 STEARETH-2 & STEARETH-21 4,000000 CI 77891 (TITANIUM) DIOXIDE) & FRAGRANCE 2,000000 1,2-HE XANEDIOL & CHLORPHENESIN & o-CYMEN-5-0L 1,000000 GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID & ZINC LACTATE & OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA STEM EXTRACT 1.000000 LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT & GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT 0.300000 TOTAL 100 3034667 12 Example 6 : Dermatological bread for combination skin Ingredients (INCI name EU) 5 ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH - POTASSIUM LAURYL SULFATE - CETEARYL ALCOHOL - SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE - HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL - AQUA (WATER, WATER) - TALC - GLYCINE - FRAGRANCE - PIROCTONE OLAMINE - GLYCERIN 10 - PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL) - COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE - LACTIC ACID - CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) - POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE 95.000000 GLYCERIN & EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM / 5 FLOWER / LEAF / STEM EXTRACT 3.000000 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 0.800000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Teflon) 0.900000 CI 77289 (CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN) - 20 CI 19140 (YELLOW 5) & PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.500000 TOTAL 100 Example 7 : Cleansing gel for combination skin 25 Ingredients (EU INCI name) AQUA (WATER, WATER) qs 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 12.000000 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE & SODIUM LAURETH-8 SULFATE & SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE & MAGNESIUM LAURETH SULFATE & SODIUM OLETH SULFATE & MAGNESIUM LAURETH- 8 SULFATE & MAGNESIUM OLETH SULFATE & SODIUM CHLORIDE 10,000000 PEG-80 GLYCERYL COCOATE & COCO-GLUCOSIDE & GLYCERYL OLEATE 6,000000 SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE & PPG-2 HYDROXYETHYL COCAMIDE 5,000000 GLYCERIN & EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM 3034667 13 FLOWER / LEAF / STEM EXTRACT 1,000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Teflon) 1,500,000 PPG-2 HYDROXYETHYL COCO / ISOSTEARAMIDE 1,000000 5 CITRIC ACID & PIROCTONE OLAMINE 1.000000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0.500000 TOTAL 100 Example 8: Lotion for combination to oily skin 10 Ingredients (INCI name EU) AQUA (WATER, WATER) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 45.000000 ALCOHOL 39.500000 GLYCOLIC ACID & MALIC ACID & LACTIC ACID & SALICYLIC ACID 7.000000 / 5 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Teflon) 8,100,000 PERFUME (FRAGRANCE) 0,500,000 TOTAL 100 Example 9: Lotion for combination to oily skin Ingredients (INCI name EU) AQUA (WATER, WATER) gsp 100 AQUA (URIAGE THERMAL SPRING WATER) 52.000000 ALCOHOL 39.500000 GLYCOLIC ACID & MALIC ACID & LACTIC ACID & 25 SALICYLIC ACID 7.000000 AQUA & PROPANEDIOL & RHAMNOSE & GLUCURONIC ACID & GLUCOSE (Teflon) 9,500,000 PERFUME 0,500,000 TOTAL 100 30 To demonstrate the action on the skin of the compositions according to the invention, a test is performed on an ex vivo model of explants of normal human skin.
3034667 14 Pour se rapprocher des conditions de la peau acnéique, deux extraits de Propioni bacterium acnes choisis parmi les ribotypes RT4 et RT5 sont introduits dans les milieux d'incubation des explants de peau.To approach the conditions of acne skin, two extracts of Propioni bacterium acnes selected from ribotypes RT4 and RT5 are introduced into the incubation media of skin explants.
5 Une composition cosmétique selon l'invention a été préalablement appliquée sur l'explant de peau puis réappliquée après l'introduction de P.acnes. A la fin de la période d'incubation, un ensemble de marqueurs de l'inflammation sont quantifiés: les cytokines 10 IL-lbeta et IL-18, les peptides antimicrobiens hBD2 et LL-37, les protéases SKALP/ELAFINE et KLK-5 et les activités Caspase-1 et Collagénase MMP-9. La quantification est effectuée dans les milieux extracellulaires à l'aide de kits de dosage sensibles et /5 spécifiques. L'ensemble des conditions expérimentales est réalisé en triplicate (n=3). D'autre part, des études d'objectivation clinique sur des volontaires à peaux à tendance acnéique ont été effectuées à 20 l'aide de deux compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention, la crème matifiante et la crème anti-imperfection. Pour la crème matifiante, l'étude a eu pour objectif chez le volontaire à peau grasse à tendance acnéique de mettre en évidence, ses effets matifiant et apaisant à quatre, huit et 25 douze heures après une application en hémi visage et son effet hydratant à une et huit heures après une application standardisée unique au niveau des avant-bras. Pour la crème anti-imperfection, l'objectif de l'étude, réalisée sur volontaires à peau grasse et présentant un acné 30 polymorphe modéré, a été d'évaluer et de comparer son activité à J28 et J56 sur les lésions d'acné et la sécrétion sébacée par rapport à une crème de référence: - Dans un premier temps, 4 heures après application unique des produits à l'essai, on évalue et on compare leur 35 efficacité matifiante, par mesures glossymétriques et par cotation clinique. - Dans un deuxième temps, après applications biquotidiennes pendant 28 jours et 56 jours: 3034667 On évalue et on compare : o leur potentiel séborégulateur, par mesures sébumétriques et par cotation clinique ; o leur efficacité sur la taille des pores cutanés par 5 cotation clinique réalisée par un dermatologue ; o leur potentiel anti-acnéique par dénombrement des lésions acnéiques ; On évalue leur tolérance cutanée globale et leur acceptabilité cosmétique. /0 L'examen du visage de face prise à chaque visite (J1, J28 et J56) montre l'efficacité des compositions selon l'invention.A cosmetic composition according to the invention was previously applied to the skin explant and then reapplied after the introduction of P. acnes. At the end of the incubation period, a set of inflammation markers are quantified: cytokines IL-lbeta and IL-18, antimicrobial peptides hBD2 and LL-37, proteases SKALP / ELAFINE and KLK-5 and the Caspase-1 and Collagenase MMP-9 activities. Quantification is performed in extracellular media using sensitive and specific assay kits. The set of experimental conditions is made in triplicate (n = 3). On the other hand, clinical objectification studies on volunteers with acne-prone skins were carried out using two cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the mattifying cream and the anti-imperfection cream. For the mattifying cream, the objective of the study was for the acne-prone fatty-skinned volunteer to demonstrate, its matifying and soothing effects at four, eight and twelve hours after a semi-facial application and its moisturizing effect. one and eight hours after a single standardized application at the forearm level. For the anti-imperfection cream, the objective of the study, carried out on fat-skinned volunteers with moderate polymorphic acne, was to evaluate and compare its activity on days 28 and 56 on acne lesions. sebaceous secretion relative to a reference cream: firstly, 4 hours after single application of the products under test, their mattifying efficacy is evaluated and compared, by glossymetric measurements and by clinical evaluation. - Secondly, after twice-daily applications for 28 days and 56 days: 3034667 We evaluate and compare: o their seboregulatory potential, by sebumetric measurements and by clinical evaluation; their effectiveness on the size of the cutaneous pores by clinical evaluation carried out by a dermatologist; o their anti-acne potential by counting acne lesions; Their overall skin tolerance and cosmetic acceptability are assessed. Examination of the facial face taken at each visit (J1, J28 and J56) shows the effectiveness of the compositions according to the invention.
Claims (10)
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| WO2019016493A1 (en) * | 2017-07-17 | 2019-01-24 | Cosmetic Warriors Limited | Composition |
| CN115212148A (en) * | 2022-07-22 | 2022-10-21 | 广州睿森生物科技有限公司 | Acne removing composition and application thereof |
| FR3122828A1 (en) * | 2021-04-07 | 2022-11-18 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | Composition for the treatment of acne |
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| WO2019016493A1 (en) * | 2017-07-17 | 2019-01-24 | Cosmetic Warriors Limited | Composition |
| FR3122828A1 (en) * | 2021-04-07 | 2022-11-18 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | Composition for the treatment of acne |
| CN115212148A (en) * | 2022-07-22 | 2022-10-21 | 广州睿森生物科技有限公司 | Acne removing composition and application thereof |
| CN115212148B (en) * | 2022-07-22 | 2023-08-11 | 广州睿森生物科技有限公司 | Acne removing composition and application thereof |
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