FR3004642A1 - COSMETIC HAIR RELAXATION AND / OR VOLUME REDUCTION CAPILLARY COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD USING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising: a) one or more amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic (s), b) one or more cationic surfactant (s), c) one or more sulfur reducing agent (s), and (d) one or more alkaline agent (s), the weight ratio of the total amount of the amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s) ) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) on the other hand being greater than or equal to 1.2. The present invention also relates to a process using this composition, and to the use thereof for loosening loops and / or reducing the volume of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, intended in particular to relax the loops and / or the hair and / or to reduce the volume. to reduce the volume of said fibers and which comprises, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one sulfur reducing agent, and at least one alkaline agent. The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using said composition, as well as the use of this composition for loosening loops and / or reducing the volume of keratinous fibers. To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair such as a smoothing of the hair, a straightening or relaxation of loops, the most used technique consists, in a first time, to realize the opening of the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin ( keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a sulfur reducing agent (reduction step) then, after having rinsed generally with water the hair so treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously energized, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. The new form imposed on the hair by such a chemical treatment is eminently durable over time and particularly resistant to the action of washing with water or by shampoos, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as bets. in fold.

Many products intended for smoothing, straightening the hair or relaxing loops exist on the market. Products intended for smoothing or straightening are generally formulated from thiols and alkaline agents, while products intended for relaxation of loops contain rather products of the cysteine type and its derivatives. These products are generally applied to curly or bulky hair in order to obtain a more or less pronounced smoothing, a reduction in the volume and mass of the hair.

The application of these products is generally long, with a laying time more or less long depending on the product, the type of hair and the desired effect. It requires precise know-how. In addition, the reducing agents are generally employed at high concentrations, which may cause more or less degradation of the hair fiber, especially when these are colored. Finally, the implementation of such a smoothing treatment is a generally drastic choice for the consumer, who can not regulate the level of smoothing according to his choice.

There is therefore a real need to develop hair lightening treatments, lighter than those existing in the state of the art, which not only degrade less the hair fiber, but also are easy to apply, and allow modulation of the hair. smoothing effect, for example by resorting to repeated applications. The Applicant has now discovered that the introduction of certain sulfur-containing assets into a particular skincare base makes it possible to meet the aforementioned objectives. In particular, it has discovered that by introducing at least one sulfur reducing agent, and at least one alkaline agent into a care base containing a particular combination of surfactants based on an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and a cationic surfactant. by respecting a weight ratio of particular concentration between these two types of surfactants, it was possible to obtain a care composition having a smoothing activity on the hair. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, comprising: a) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, b) one or more cationic surfactant (s), c) one or more several reducing agent (s) sulfur (s), and d) one or more alkaline agent (s), the weight ratio between the total amount of surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) (s) (s) s) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) on the other hand being greater than or equal to 1.2. The application of such a composition on keratin fibers is fast and simple, and does not require any particular know-how. In addition, the application of this composition makes it possible to obtain relaxation of loops and / or a reduction in the volume of the hair, which is progressive. In particular, it is possible to modulate the desired effect, by successive applications of such a composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be used as a maintenance product for smoothing, especially between two smoothing operations. In addition, the composition according to the invention has good detergency properties, and very good use qualities. Finally, the treatment with the composition according to the invention does not substantially degrade the hair fibers. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers, C 5 -C 10 alkanes, C 3 -C 4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and mixtures thereof. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 2 -C 8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine and (C 8 -C 20) alkyls. ) amido (C 6 -C 8 alkyl) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of respective structures (I), (II) and (IIbis): Ra-C (O) -NHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C00-, M +, X- (I) Formula (I) wherein: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulphonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X- are absent; Ra'-C (O) -NHCH2-CH2-N (B) (B ') (II) Formula (II) wherein: B is -CH2-CH2-O-X'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2-CH2-COOH, -CH2-CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate di sodium, caprylamphodipropionate di sodium, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate and the cocoamphodipropionate marketed by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade name REWOTERIC AM KSF 40. Ra '-NH-CH (Y ") - (CH2) .- C (O) -NH- (CH2) .- N (Rd) (Re) (IIbis) Formula (IIbis) in which: Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ", - CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z-; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra" represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra "-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; Among the compounds of formula (IIbis), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are (s) chosen from cocoylbetaine, cocoylamidopropylbetaine and sodium cocoylamidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylaminopropionate. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) above may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight. and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example, of: - those corresponding to the following general formula (III): in which the RRX 8 \ / io (III) R (\ R11 R11, which may be identical groups R8 to or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, the aliphatic groups being chosen, for example, from C1-C30alkyl, C2-C30alkenyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C1-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) amidoalkyl, (C1-2alkyl) C22) acetate, and hydroxyalkyl C1-C30; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salts. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyls or alkylaryl-sulphonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; X - quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (V): in which R17 R19 2X- from 16 to 30 atoms II (V) R1,5-N- (CH2) 3 -N-R21 alkyl having approximately II hydroxylated and / or R18 R20 R16 denotes a carbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) ( R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, Rua, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (VI): ## STR2 ## in which C1-C6 and hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl C1-C6 groups; R 23 is chosen from: 0 - the group - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 26 R 25 is chosen from: o - the R 28 group C- - R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci- C6 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C7 hydrocarbon groups. -C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated and saturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate . However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VI) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R 23 is selected from: R 26 - the group - methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom; R 25 is selected from 0 - the group - the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; . Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned for example the compounds of formula (VI) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A4137180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one useful ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts. Among the cationic surfactants above, it is particularly preferred to employ those of formula (III) and those of formula (VI) and even more preferably those of formula (III) and in particular cetyltrimethylammonium or behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides. The cationic surfactant (s) above may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight. at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio according to the invention between the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant (s) or zwitterionic (s) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) on the other hand is greater than or equal to 1.2. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 1.2 to 10, preferably from 1.5 to 8, and more preferably from 2 to 4. The sulfur reducing agent (s) present (s). ) in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (-SH) groups, sulphites, and sulphite derivatives. The organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, and the acid. 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thio salicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetyl-cysteine, esters of thioglycolic or thiolactic acids, and mixtures of these compounds. Sulphite derivatives are essentially bisulfites, sulfite diesters of formula R-O-SO 2 -R 'with R and R' denoting C 1 to C 10 alkyl groups. The sulfur reducing agent (s) may be used especially in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and aminoalcohol salts. In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfur-reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine and its salts, and alkali metal sulfites. , alkali metal bisulfites, and precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites. Even more preferably, the sulfur reductive agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, sodium sulphite, sodium bisulfite, and sodium metabisulphite. The sulfur reducing agent (s) is (are) preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the sulfur reducing agent (s). the composition. The alkaline agent (s) used in the composition according to the invention may be any agent for increasing the pH of the composition in which it is found. The alkaline agent may be a Bronsted-Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. In particular, the alkaline agent (s) may be chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, and derivatives thereof, c) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, d) inorganic or organic hydroxides, e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, f) amino acids preferably such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine; g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium, and h) the compounds of the following formula (VII): wherein W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such compounds of formula (VII) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine. The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, the hydroxides of a transition metal, such as the hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of Group III, IV, V and VI metals of the Periodic Table of Elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, and guanidinium hydroxide.

The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide, formed by the reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.

The preferred alkaline agents are in particular ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol. The agent (s) alkali (s) as defined above may represent for example from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. 'invention. The concentration of alkaline agent (s) is in particular adjusted according to the desired pH for the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 7 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.5. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s) and / or one or more anionic surfactant (s).

Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (Ci-C24) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 atoms. carbon number, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide copolymers and propylene, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty amides, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly) glucosides, esters alkylglucosides, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides, amine oxides and (poly) oxyalkylenated silicones.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono- or polyglycerolated mono or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants and alkyl (poly) glucosides. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. As examples of preferred nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - C8-C30 amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; vegetable oils oxyethylenated, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide, alone or in mixtures, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, alkyl (poly) glucosides.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used. In particular, the preferred mono- or poly-glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula (VIII): R290- [CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O] -H (VIII) Formula (VIII) in which: R29 represents a linear or branched C8-C40, preferably C8-C30, alkyl or alkenyl radical; and - m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds of formula (VIII), mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL- 4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol of formula (VIII) can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist in the form of a mixed. The nonionic surfactant (s) alkyl (poly) glucoside may be represented by the following formula (IX): R300- (R310) t (G), (IX) in which: R30 represents a saturated alkyl group or an unsaturated, linear or branched, having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group has from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R31 represents an alkylene group having about 2 to 4 carbon atoms , G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants ( s) nonionic (s) alkyl (poly) glucoside compounds of formula (IX) in which: R 30 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, G is glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to o, and R31 and v are as defined above. The degree of polymerization of the nonionic surfactant (s) alkyl (poly) glucoside, as represented for example by the index v in the formula (IX), varies on average from 1 to 15, and Preferably, this degree of polymerization varies more preferably from 1 to 2, and more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5 on average. The glucosidic bonds between the saccharide units are in 1,6 or 1,4; and preferably 1.4. By way of example of compounds of formula (IX), mention may be made in particular of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or else those sold by CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

It is also possible to use the alkyl (C 8 -C 16) polyglucoside in 1,4, for example in aqueous solution at 53% by weight of the total weight of the solution, marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP. When present, the additional nonionic surfactant (s) may represent, for example, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, O S03-, O2P 02H, O2P 02H-, O2P 022-. The agent (s) surfactant (s) anion (s) may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl acid salts ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts, or non-salt forms of all such compounds, alkyl and of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglucoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglucoside-tartrates and polyglucoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl. When the anionic surfactant (s) are in the salt form, they may be chosen in particular from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, salts thereof. ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2- methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Alkyl (C6-C24) sulphates, alkyl (C6-C24) ether sulphates, optionally oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline salts, are preferably used. -terrous, ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferably, the agent (s) surfactant (s) anion (s) are selected from alkyl (Cio-C20) ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide. When present, the additional anionic surfactant (s) may represent, for example, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more non-silicone fatty substances. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure, is insoluble in water (that is to say, has a solubility in the water). less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and is soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform , or benzene) to at least 1% by weight.

Non-silicone means a fatty substance not comprising in its Si-O-Si chain structure. The fatty substance (s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be chosen especially from vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, waxes other than fatty alcohols and their mixtures. As vegetable oil, there may be mentioned sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, liquid jojoba wax, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil , corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter, rice bran, corn germ oil, passionflower oil and rye oil. As animal oil, there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene. As mineral oil, mention may be made of paraffin oil and liquid petroleum jelly. As synthetic oil, mention may especially be made of squalane, poly (α-olefins) such as isododecane OR isohexadecane, transesterified vegetable oils, fluorinated oils, fatty esters. The term "fatty esters" denotes compounds of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a linear or branched, hydroxyl or non-saturated, saturated or unsaturated higher acid containing from 4 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a linear hydrocarbon-based chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than 10. By way of nonlimiting examples, mention may especially be made of purcellin oil (octanoate stearyl), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate of 2-octyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate or tridecyl neopentanoate. The fluorinated oils may be partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone, for example those described in JP-A-2-295912.

Preferred fatty alcohols include, among others, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl and erucyl alcohols. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (about 25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than about 40 ° C. and that can go up to 200 ° C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. Animal and vegetable waxes comprise, as essential components, esters of carboxylic acids and long-chain alcohols. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse the light, conferring on the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a homogeneous mixture microscopically. As waxes, other than fatty alcohols, that may be used in the composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, rice wax, apple wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, waxes mineral, for example, paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof. The non-silicone fatty substance (s) as described above, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more swelling or emollient agent (s) such as urea, glycols such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol , melamine, guanidine, glycerin. Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preferably nonionic surfactant and / or at least one additional conditioning agent preferably chosen from silicones and / or cationic or amphoteric polymers. By way of example of silicones that can be used as conditioning agent (s) in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-volatile silicones. These silicones can be in the form of oils, resins or gums; they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile. When volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260 ° C.

As a conditioning agent, cationic or amphoteric polymers such as in particular polyquaterniums 22, 6, 10, 11, 35 and 37 and hexadimethrin chloride are particularly preferred. The concentration of the additional conditioning agent (s) described above in the composition according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5%. by weight and more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight. The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvant (s) other than the compounds described above. For example, it may comprise one or more conventional additive (s) well known in the art, such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral pigments or organic, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, pearlescent agents, perfumes and preservatives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compound (s) complement (s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not affected by the proposed addition (s). The above additives can generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is non-coloring, that is to say that it does not comprise direct dyeing or oxidation agents. Another subject of the invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, which comprises the application to said fibers, dry or wet, in one or more times, of a composition as described above. According to a preferred embodiment, such a process consists in applying to the keratinous fibers the composition according to the present invention, then possibly in rinsing said fibers after a possible exposure time.

According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the following steps: - applying the composition according to the invention to damp hair, then - leave the composition on the hair, respecting a laying time of 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, at a temperature ranging from 20 to 230 ° C and preferably from 20 to 60 ° C, and more preferably from 20 to 30 ° C, then - rinse the hair at the water.

The hair can then be dried, for example with a helmet or hair dryer, or allowed to air dry. It is also possible to carry out a step of tensioning the hair, for example by means of a brush, a comb, or tongs, at the moment when the hair is in contact with the composition according to the invention, or after rinsing it. It is also possible to substitute this energizing step by a step of working the hair by hand or comb.

However, and this is an advantage of the present invention, from the first application of the composition, including without tensioning the hair, there is a substantial reduction in the volume of the hair. When the hair is curled, there is also relaxation loops, and / or a better definition thereof. The process of the invention can be carried out once. According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention is repeated several times until the desired level of smoothing is obtained.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a method of relaxing hair curls and / or hair volume reduction, consisting of applying one or more times to the hair composition according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is applied several times, either consecutively or after a time varying from a few hours to a few days, each application being followed by rinsing, until the level of relaxation and / or desired volume reduction. The application of the composition according to the invention may be followed by the application of one or more rinsed or non-rinsed hair compositions, whether or not containing a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention.

More particularly, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for relaxing keratinous fiber loops and / or reducing the volume of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

In addition, this composition can be advantageously used for the detergency of hair, for smoothing thereof, or for a combined effect of detergency and smoothing. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be applied before or after a conventional hair straightening treatment with or without fixation, in order to facilitate it, or to enhance its effectiveness ("booster" smoothing effect). It can also be applied after a conventional smoothing treatment and in particular an alkaline smoothing, so as to maintain the smoothing of the hair which allows for example to space smoothing treatments generally performed with more aggressive compositions. The following example is given purely by way of illustration of the present invention.

EXAMPLE: Three foaming care compositions A, B and C, according to the invention, were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): Composition ABC N -cocoyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl, 7.5 7.5 7.5 sodium aminopropionate ") Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride (2) 3.16 3.16 3.16 Corn Phosphate Phosphate 3.5 3.5 3,5-hydroxypropyl pregelatinized cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50/50) 7 7 7 Polydimethylsiloxane with 1,1 1,1 aminoethylaminopropyl groups, with methoxy and / or hydroxy function and alpha-omega silanols ") Thioglycolic acid 2 - - Sodium metabisulfite - 2 - Cysteine - 3 Arginine - Qs pH 7 Mono ethanolamine Qs pH 8 Ammonium bicarbonate Qs - pH 8 Pentasodium pentetate 0.16 0.16 0.16 Water Qsp Qsp Qs 100 100 100 (1) product REWOTERIC AM KSF 40 marketed by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT (2) produces VARISOFT BT 85 commercialis by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT (3) produced XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION marketed by the company Dow Corning The foaming care compositions above were applied to curly and / or voluminous hair, as follows: 20 to 30 g of care were applied to the wet hair, that is to say, previously wet and wrung with a towel. Then the composition was carefully distributed by kneading the hair, so as to lather the composition.

After a period of exposure ranging from 2 to 5 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water, then wiped with a towel, combed and dried with a hair dryer. The Applicant has found that the hair was clean, and had a clear reduction in the volume of the hair. Regarding the curly hair, she also found that the hair curls were more relaxed, with a better definition of the curls These effects can be obtained after a single application of the composition according to the invention, without having to smooth hair by brush or with pliers when drying. The above treatment process can be repeated several times consecutively on the same hair. The effects are accentuated.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition, comprising: a) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, b) one or more cationic surfactant (s), c) one or more reducing agent (s) (s) ), and (d) one or more alkaline agent (s), the weight ratio between the total amount of the amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) on the other hand being greater than or equal to 1.2. 2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) are selected from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the group aliphatic is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or said amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s) are chosen from (C8-C20) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (alkyl) C8-C20) amido (C2-C8) alkylbetaines, (C8-C20alkyl) amido (C6-C8alkyl) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 characterized in that the said amphoteric surfactant (s) or zwitterionic (s) are selected from the compounds of respective structures (I), (II) and (IIbis) Ra-C (O) -NHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C00-, M +, X- (I) Formula (I) wherein: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulphonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X- are absent; Wherein: B is -CH2-CH2-O-X '; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2-CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group; Ra "-NH-CH (Y") - (CH2) .- C (O) -NH- (CH2) .'-N (Rd) (Re) (IIbis) Formula (IIa) in which: Y "represents the -COOH group, -COOZ ", -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z"; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent an alkyl radical or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra "represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra" -COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; and mixtures of these compounds. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylbetaine, cocoylamidopropylbetaine and sodium cocoyl amidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylaminopropionate. . 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) represent from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more cationic surfactant (s) are chosen from: - those corresponding to the following general formula (III): X with R8 to R11, which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, and more particularly those of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 (IV) N C 1 -C 12 -N (R 15) -CO-R 12 N H R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a group C1-C4 alkyl, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; the di or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula (V): R 17 R 19 II R 16 -N - (CH 2) 3 -NR - --- 21 2X-II R 12 R-20 (V) in which R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group ( R16a) (R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, Rua, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; carbon; and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates; the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (VI): ## STR2 ## R 2 (C 2 H 2 O 5) R22 wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 23 is chosen from: - the group R 26 - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, (VI) C - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: The group R28 - the groups R29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups C1-C6, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from the groups C7-C21 hydrocarbonaceous, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the or said cationic surfactant (s) represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of the surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) on the one hand and the total amount of surfactant (s) (s) cationic (s) on the other hand ranges from 1.2 to 10, preferably from 1.5 to 8, and more preferably from 2 to 4. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulfur-reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (-SH) groups, sulphites, and sulfite derivatives. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more said reducing agent (s) sulfur (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine and its salts, alkali metal sulfites, alkali metal bisulfites, and precursors of such sulfites or bisulfites. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said agent (s) reducing (s) sulfur (s) represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent (s) alkaline (s) are chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines and their derivatives, c) ethylenediamines oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, d) inorganic or organic hydroxides, e) alkali metal silicates, f) amino acids, preferably basic, g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali metal. or h) the compounds of formula (VII) below: wherein R is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH varies from 7 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.5. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one preferably nonionic surfactant and / or at least one additional conditioning agent preferably chosen from silicones and / or cationic polymers or amphoteric. 16. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims for relaxing keratinous fiber loops and / or reducing the volume of keratinous fibers, preferably hair. 17. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers comprising the application to said fibers, dry or wet, in one or more times, of a composition as defined in claims 1 to 15. 18. Cosmetic treatment method according to the preceding claim comprising the following steps: - applying the composition of claims 1 to 15 on wet hair, and then - leave the composition on the hair, respecting a laying time of 5 seconds at 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, at a temperature ranging from 20 to 230 ° C, preferably from 20 to 60 ° C, and more preferably from 20 to 30 ° C, then - rinsing the hair at the water.