FR3004934A1 - COMPOSITION FOR THE SMOOTHING OF KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF UREA OR UREA DERIVATIVE AND BODY, METHOD AND USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers comprising: (a) one or more compounds selected from urea and / or urea derivatives, (b) from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty substances. It also relates to a process using this composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition for the long-term smoothing of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as those used in the treatment of keratinous fibers. hair, comprising one or more compounds selected from urea and its derivatives and from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty substances.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for smoothing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair. Finally, the subject of the present invention is a process for smoothing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising a stage of application to the keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention and then a stage of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibers, using a heating means, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C. Many people are unhappy with the appearance of their hair, especially those with curly hair are more likely to get straight hair and, conversely, those with straight hair want to have curly hair. The first of the techniques usually used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair consists, first of all, in opening the disulfide bonds -SS- of keratin (keratocystin) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent. (reduction step) then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, generally with water, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously put under tension (for example by hair curlers), an oxidizing composition (Oxidation step, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus allows smoothing (straightening) of the hair. The new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is permanent in time and resists in particular the action of washing with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary smoothing, such as than a setting. The reducing compositions which can be used for carrying out the first step of a permanent smoothing generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. Among these, those commonly used are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, their salts and their esters, especially glycerol thioglycolate.

The oxidizing compositions necessary for carrying out the fixing step are most often hydrogen peroxide-based compositions. In the context of smoothing techniques, this permanent smoothing operation is generally carried out on curly or bulky hair in order to obtain a more or less pronounced smoothing and a reduction in the volume and the apparent mass of the hair. However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, although the latter is very effective in changing the shape of the hair, it is still degrading for hair fibers, which is mainly due to the high content of reducing agents used in reducing compositions and at different times laying more or less long can intervene during such a process.

This technique can thus induce in the long run an alteration of the quality of the hair resulting in a reduction of their cosmetic properties, such as their brilliance and a degradation of their mechanical properties, more particularly of their mechanical strength, due to a swelling of the hair during rinsing between the reduction step and the oxidation step which can also result in an increase in their porosity. These disadvantages are notably observed with thioglycolic acid which is generally used in basic medium at pH values ranging from 8.5 to 9.5.

Furthermore, if the permanent hair straightening technique described above is applied to hair previously subjected to artificial coloring, it usually causes degradation or stripping of this artificial coloring. Similarly, if a coloration is applied to hair permed according to the technique described above, the color obtained is very different from the color normally obtained on non-permed natural hair. It has also been observed that the use of reducing agents leads to an unsatisfactory durability for the smoothing of the hair, in particular for straightening or straightening the hair. Moreover, it has also been found that the use of these reducing agents causes discomfort of the scalp (irritation, itching, etc.). Finally, there are very often problems with odors both with the reducing compositions used and in particular those containing thiols with reduced hair. The second of the techniques usually used to obtain a hair straightening or straightening is to perform an operation called lanthionization, using a composition containing a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. It leads to replacing disulfide bonds (-CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -) by lanthionine bonds (-CH 2 -S-CH 2 -). This lanthionization operation involves two consecutive chemical reactions: The first reaction consists of a beta-elimination on cystine caused by a hydroxide ion, leading to the breakdown of this bond and to the formation of dehydroalanine, as shown on the following reaction scheme.

## STR1 ## The second reaction is a reaction of dehydroalanine with a thiol group. Indeed, the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond. It can react with the thiol group of the cysteine residue that has been released to form a new bond called a bridge or lanthionine bond or residue. This second reaction is illustrated by the following reaction scheme. / VVV 0 NH HN 0 0SH HNO C = CH 2 + S-CHFC-H 1-1-C-CHS-CHFC-1-1 41: 1 O 2: 1 2: 1 dehydroalanine lanthionine Compared to the first technique described above using a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step, since the formation of lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in a single step and allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their shaping or curing or smoothing. This technique is mainly used for shaping naturally frizzy hair.

However, the hydroxides employed during this process have the major disadvantage of being caustic. This caustic effect affects the scalp causing sometimes severe irritation and can also affect the condition of hair by making them, on the one hand, rough to the touch and, on the other hand, much more fragile. The use of hydroxides can also cause in some cases discolourations of the natural color of the hair. There is therefore a real need to find new compositions and to implement processes for the long-term smoothing of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which do not have all of the disadvantages described above. that is to say which do not involve the use of reducing agents or alkaline active agents and which make it possible to smooth the keratinous fibers sustainably while conferring satisfactory capillary properties. The Applicant has now discovered that the use of a composition for smoothing keratinous fibers comprising (a) one or more compounds chosen from urea and / or urea derivatives, (b) from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more fatty substances allowed to achieve the desired properties of durable smoothing, especially when associated with the use of a heating means. The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more compounds selected from urea and / or urea derivatives, (b) from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty substances. The application to the keratinous fibers of this composition according to the present invention followed by the use with the aid of a heating means, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C., makes it possible in particular to obtain a durable smoothing. keratinous fibers without the disadvantages of smoothing using reducing agents or strong alkaline agents.

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises: (a) one or more compounds selected from urea and / or urea derivatives, (b) from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty substances.

By derivative of urea is meant any compound other than urea CO (NH 2) 2 itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, that is to say a pattern N-CO-N Preferably, said compounds (a) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or hydrates thereof: ## STR1 ## II) R5-N, N-R6A in which: - R1, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently: (i) a hydrogen atom or (ii) a C1-05 alkyl or lower alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted with a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl, (di) (C 1 -C 4) (alkyl) amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C 6 -C 18 aryl, carboxamide and N methylcarboxamide; it being understood that - when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl or (C1-C6) alkylcarbonyl radical, such as acetyl, (C1 - C6) alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH = CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical; when R 1 and R 3 represent a hydrogen atom, R 2 may represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R 4 an acetyl radical; when R 1 = R 2 = H, R 3 and R 4 may form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring; - R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring; - R5 and R6 represent, independently of one another, (iii) a hydrogen atom or (iv) an alkyl, acyl or lower C 1 -C 5 alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic radical; C1-C5 alkoxy, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; - A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH 2 -CH 2, CH = CH, CH 2 -CO, CO-NH, CH = N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC) CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH 2 -CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH = C (CH3) -CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N (CH3) -CH2, NH-CH2-NH, CO-CH (CH 3) -CH 2, CO-CH 2 -CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH (COOH) -CH 2, CO-CH = C (COOH), CO-CH = C (CH 3), CO-C (NH 2) ) = CH, CO-C (CH 3) = N, COCH = CH, CO-CH = N and CO-N = CH. Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of: - urea - methylurea - ethylurea - propylurea - n-butylurea - sec-butylurea - isobutylurea - tert-butylurea cyclopentylurea-ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) urea, N- (3-hydroxypropyl) urea, N- (2-dimethylaminopropyl) urea, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) urea, 1- (3-hydroxyphenyl) urea - benzylurea - N-carbamoyl maleamide - N-carbamoyl maleamic acid - piperidinecarboxamide - 1,2,4-triazol-4-yl-urea - hydantoic acid - methyl allophanate - ethyl allophanate - acetylurea - hydroxyethyleneurea - 2- (hydroxyethyl) ethyleneurea - diallylurea - chloroethylurea - N, N-dimethylurea - N, N-diethylurea N, N-dipropylurea - cyclopentyl-1-methylurea - 1,3-dimethylurea - 1,3-diethylurea - 1,3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea - 1,3-bis (2-hydrate roxypropyl) urea - 1,3-bis (3-hydroxypropyl) urea - 1,3-dipropylurea - ethyl-3-propylurea - sec-butyl-3-methylurea - isobutyl-3-methylurea - cyclopentyl- 3-methylurea - N-acetyl-N'-methylurea - trimethylurea - butyl-3,3-dimethylurea - tetramethylurea and - benzylurea.

Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of: parabanic acid - 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one - barbituric acid - uracil - 1-methyl uracil - 3-methyl uracil - 5-methyl uracil - 1,3-dimethyl uracil - 5-aza uracil - 6-aza uracil - 5-fluoro uracil - the 6-fluoro uracil - 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluoro uracil - 5-amino uracil - 6-amino uracil - 6-amino-1-methyl uracil - 6-amino-1,3-dimethyl-uracil 4-chloro uracil-5-chloro uracil-5,6-dihydro-uracil-5,6-dihydro-5-methyl-uracil-2-imidazolidone-1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone-1, 3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone - 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one - 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 1- (2-hydroxypropyl) -2-imidazolidinone (3-hydroxypropyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethylimidazolidin-2-one - 1,3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 2- (2-hydroxypropyl) -2-imidazolidinone imida 4-Methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione-2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one - hydantoin - 1-methylhydantoin - 5-methylhydantoin - 5,5-dimethylhydantoin - 5-ethylhydantoin - 5-n-propylhydantoin 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin - 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin - 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin - 1-allylhydantoin - 1-aminohydantoin - hydantoin 5-acetic acid - 4-amino-1,2 , 4-triazolone-3,5-dione - hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one - 1 methyl-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-2-one - 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine - urazole - 4-methylurazole - orotic acid - dihydroxyorotic acid - 2,4 5-trihydroxypyrimidine - 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine - 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine - barbituric acid - 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid - cyanuric acid - 1-m thyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione - 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone - 5- (hydroxymethyl-2,4- (1H, 3H) -pyrimidinedione 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid; 6-azathymine; 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one; N-carbamoyl maleamic acid; and alloxane monohydrate. Preferably, said one or more compounds (a) are chosen from urea or hydroxyethylurea. The one or more compounds (a) preferably represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances (b). By fatty substance is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 5%. at 1%, and even more preferentially at 0.1%. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The at least one fatty substance used in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-salified fatty acids, fatty amines, alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain, silicones and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substance or bodies may be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. The fatty substances of the invention may be non-silicone, that is to say that they do not comprise in their structure sequences - Si-O-Si-.

The fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from liquid non-silicone fatty substances. Preferably, the non-silicone liquid fatty substances used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-salified fatty acids and alkoxysilanes. having a fatty chain. The non-silicone fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, which may be cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal mineral origin or synthetic, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the trademark Parléam® by the company NOF Corporation, the squalane.

Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane, isododecane and their mixtures. In a very particularly preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention have from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and they can be saturated or unsaturated. Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not, preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, decyl-2-tetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol and decyl-2-tetradecanol are particularly preferred.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. They are preferably acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.

By liquid fatty ester is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). More particularly, the liquid esters are chosen from linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl isononanoate and the like. 2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate. It is possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, non-sugar alcohols. tetra- or pentahydroxyl C4-C26. Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl maleate and the like. glyceryl, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl, triisopropyl citrate, triisotearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisanonate, and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Of the esters mentioned above, the palmitates of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, and the like are preferably used. alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. Of the liquid fatty esters, it is possible to use esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. By "sugar" is meant oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Preferably, said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures. Said esters may be for example oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, or else methylglucose dioleate (Glucate® OD) are used. Among the sugar esters, pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisisostea, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, caprylic and capric acid hexaesters mixed with dipentaerythritol can be used.

Among the natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol, it is possible to use vegetable or synthetic oils. More particularly, said one or more vegetable or synthetic oils are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else such as sesame, soy, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice, cotton, rose, kiwifruit seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, poppy, orange peel, sweet almond, palm, copra, vernoia, marjoram , baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, the oil jojoba, shea butter oil. Preferably, triglycerides of plant origin are used as liquid esters according to the invention, in particular the oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof and esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C 22 alcohols, in particular 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate.

By fatty acid is meant a non-salified fatty acid, that is to say that the fatty acid must not be in the form of generally soluble soap, that is to say that it must not be salified by a base. More particularly, the liquid fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated radical, linear or branched, preferably containing from 7 to 39 carbon atoms. Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group, more preferably a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups and / or one or more carboxyl groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty acid or acids are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.

By alkoxysilanes is meant alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, the alkoxysilanes may be chosen from hexadecyltriethoxysilane and octadecyltriethoxysilane. The fatty substance (s) of the composition according to the invention may also be chosen from non-liquid fatty substances at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). By non-liquid fats, is preferably meant a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 s-1. More particularly, the "non-liquid" non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, amines and fatty, non-liquid ethers and preferably solid.

More particularly, the non-liquid fatty alcohols according to the invention are chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol) may be mentioned. More particularly, cetylstearyl alcohol is used. The fatty acid ester (s) and / or non-liquid fatty alcohol (s) according to the invention are generally chosen from solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and from C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols. By way of example, octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate and oleate may be mentioned as examples. decyl alcohol, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate . The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and ceramides. The solid amides used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as natural or synthetic glycoceramides which correspond to the following formula (III): ## STR1 ## in which R 'denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid C16-C30; R "denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulphogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R "'denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this radical may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals, it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R" can also denote a C15-C26 alphahydroxyalkyl radical; the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The ceramide or ceramides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds for which R 'denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids, R "denotes a hydrogen atom and R" denotes a linear radical. Preferably, the following compounds may be chosen: N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, Nstearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine and a mixture of these compounds. Even more preferably, the ceramides for which R 'denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids, R "denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl radical and R"' denotes a group -CH = CH- (CH 2) 12- CH3. Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. Non-liquid fatty ethers according to the invention are chosen from dialkyl ethers, in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance (s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of animal or synthetic mineral origin, more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular vegetable oils and esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, these esters being more preferably chosen from the triglycerides of origin plant, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures. More preferentially, the non-silicone fatty substance or fats are chosen from liquid petrolatum, isoparaffins, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, avocado oil, olive oil and oil. camellia, apricot kernel oil, oleic acid, 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the non-silicone fatty substance or fats are chosen from avocado oil, liquid petroleum jelly, oleic acid and their mixture.

The at least one fatty substance according to the invention may be chosen from silicones. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone or silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. The volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from silicones having a boiling point ranging from 60 ° C. to 260 ° C., and more particularly still silicones chosen from (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to at 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula: ## STR5 ## Examples of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class are also described in The article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

The non-volatile silicones that may be used according to the invention may preferably be non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups, and mixtures thereof. . These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. Said solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: (R 7) 25iO 2/2, (R 7 ) Wherein R7 is an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R 7 denotes a lower C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinet Su. The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. The organomodified silicones may be polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention are non-silicone.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 10% of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), preferably non-silicone. In a preferred manner, the fatty substance (s) according to the invention are chosen from oleic acid, avocado oil, liquid petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof. The at least one fatty substance according to the invention represents from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40 to 90% by weight, better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants, more particularly nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (Ci-C20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides. Unless stated otherwise, for these surfactants, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As regards the "anionic surfactants", the term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-503H, 503-, 0503H, 0503-0-2-2PO2H, O2PO2H, O2O2. The anionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester salts and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-acid salts, carboxylic; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl. When the anionic surfactant or agents are in salt form, they are not in the form of zinc salts, and they may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably from sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino- 2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Alkyl (C6-C24) sulphates, alkyl (C6-C24) ether sulphates, optionally oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline salts, are preferably used. -terrous, ammonium, aminoalcohol. More preferably, the agent (s) surfactant (s) anion (s) are selected from alkyl (Cio-C20) ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide. The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: those having the following general formula (IV): X (IV) in which the groups R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to at 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethyl ammonium or alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salt of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, of stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, the salt of staramidopropyldimethylcétéaryl ammonium, OR the stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium salt marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 X represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; - quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VI) of 16 to 30 in which 2X- interrupted by R17 R-19 (VI) II alkyl having approximately R1,5-N- (CH2) 3-N- R21 hydroxyl and / or II oxygen, R17 is selected from R18 R20 R16 denotes a radical carbon atoms optionally one or more atoms hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) ( R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3; R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R29 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (VII): (VII) o (CsH2Os) z -R25I1 + R24-C- (OCrH2r)), N (Ctil2tO) '-R23X-IR22 in which: R22 is selected from the group consisting of C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: IIR -C- - group 26 - R27 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: R28 - the group - R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups C1-C6, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon groups C7-C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R 23 is selected from: ## STR5 ## group 26 - methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - hydrogen atom; R 25 is chosen from: R 28, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups; and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned for example the compounds of formula (VI) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one useful ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8 alkyl) ) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned compounds of the following respective structures (B1) and (B2): Ra-C (O) -NHCH2CH2N + (Rb (Rc) -CH2C (O) O-, M +, X- (B1) Formula (B1) wherein: Ra represents a C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M + and X- are absent; Ra'-C (O) -NH-CH 2 -CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (B2) Formula wherein: B is -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-X'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-C (O) OZ% -CH2-CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-CH2-C (O) OZ% or an atom of hydrogen; Y 'represents the group -C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or C 10 -C 30 alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.

Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate di sodium, caprylamphodipropionate di sodium, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M Concentrate. It is also possible to use compounds of formula (B'2); Ra '-NH-CH (Y ") - (CH 2) n-C (O) NH (CH 2) n (Rd) (Re) (B' 2) Formula wherein: Y" represents the group -C ( 0) 0H, -C (O) OZ-, -CH2-CH (OH) -S03H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z-; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra" represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra "-C (O) OH is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (B'2), there may be mentioned the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above C8-C20alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, C8-C20alkylamido (C2-C8alkyl) betaines, such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof are preferably used. the surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) are selected from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbétaïne. The surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are preferably nonionic or cationic. The surfactants may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more additive (s) chosen from the active ingredients and cosmetic adjuvants commonly used in the hair field. These additives are chosen, for example, from fixing polymers, chitosans and their derivatives, vitamins, amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, hydrolysed or non-modified proteins, modified or otherwise, enzymes, organic acids other than acids. non-salified fat, UV filters, anti-oxidants and anti-free radical agents, chelating agents, anti-dandruff agents, seborrhea regulating agents, soothing agents, hair coloring agents such as direct dyes, precursors oxidation dye and pigments, acids, bases, plasticizers, perfumes, preservatives, mineral fillers, pearlescent agents, flakes, thickeners, propellants, conditioning agents other than fatty substances and cationic surfactants such as cationic polymers. The above additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of wax, paste, cream, gel, mousse, spray or lotion. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined according to the invention for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

Finally, the subject of the invention is also a process for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (i) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of the composition according to the invention, then; (ii) a step of raising the temperature of the keratin fibers using a heating means, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C. Preferably, the temperature is raised with the aid of said heating means at a temperature ranging from 100 to 250 ° C, more preferably from 150 to 230 ° C. In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is applied to a damp hair, or dry, preferably wet, with or without exposure time. The bath ratio of the formulation applied can vary from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.2 to 5. The keratin fibers are then dewatered or not, preferably dewatered. One or more heating means are applied singly or sequentially to the keratin fibers at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C, preferably from 100 to 250 ° C, more preferably from 150 to 230 ° C for a time ranging from seconds to one hour, preferably from 5 seconds to one minute. The hair then undergoes one or more of the following operations: rinsing, shampooing and treatment with a rinsed conditioning agent, drying, preferably by means of a helmet or a hair dryer. Preferably, when a setting time is used, said exposure time is preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour. Relative bath is the ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of keratinous fibers to be treated. As heating means, it will be possible to use a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a vaguest iron, a helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared heating system or a heating curler (digital type Perm). In a second embodiment, the sequence formed by the steps: (i) applying the composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers, and then (ii) raising the temperature of the keratin fibers using a means of heating, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C, is performed one or more times, spaced or not by one or more cosmetic treatments, preferably a shampoo, and until the form or the desired form intensity. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE Two compositions for smoothing the keratinous fibers according to the invention are prepared as well as a control composition containing no urea or urea derivative. The formulations are indicated in Table I (the amounts are expressed as a percentage of weight relative to the total weight of the composition).

Table I Compound Percentage by weight Composition 1 Urea 5% cetyl chloride 05% trimethylammonium Avocado oil 70% Water Qs 100% Composition 2 Hydroxyethylurea 4% Beheneth-10 7% Avocado oil 58% Water Qs 100% Control Chloride cetyl 05% trimethylammonium Avocado oil 70% Water Qsp 100% The compositions 1 and 2 as well as the control composition are applied to medium curly locks (degree of crimp 3 according to the article "shape variability and classification of human hair", Roland DE LA METTRIE and All Human Biology, 2007, vol 79, No. 3, pages 265-281) according to the following protocol: The keratinous fibers are previously washed with a shampoo. Each composition is applied to a separate wet wick. The excess product is then removed by spinning. The locks are then pre-dried using a hair dryer. A straightener is then applied along the strands twice at a temperature of 210 ° C slowly (about 1 minute). The locks are then shampooed and finally dried with a hair dryer. The loop relaxation of the locks treated with compositions 1 and 2 as well as with the control composition are measured. The results are shown in Table II. Table II Wick treated Loop relaxation Composition 1 Important Composition 2 Important Low Control It is found that the locks treated with compositions 1 or 2 have a loop relaxation much greater than the wick treated with the control composition.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more compounds selected from urea and / or urea derivatives, (b) from 10 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bodies fat. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the one or more compounds (a) are chosen from compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates; Wherein R1, R2, R3, R4 are, independently, (i) a hydrogen atom or (ii) wherein R1, R2, R3, R4 are, independently, (i) a hydrogen atom or (ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C1-C5 alkyl or lower alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical or a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from: hydroxyl, (Ci-C4) alkyl, (di) (Ci-C4) (alkyl) amino, preferably dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N radicals; methylcarboxamide; it being understood that - when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl or (C1-C6) alkylcarbonyl radical, such as acetyl, (C1 - C6) alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, CO-CH = CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical; - when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 may represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 an acetyl radical; when R1 = R2 = H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine ring, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide; - R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring; - R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, (iii) a hydrogen atom or (iv) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, a C1-C5 alkoxy radical, a C6-C18 aryl radical, a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C6-C18 aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide; - A is a radical chosen from the radicals: CH 2 -CH 2, CH = CH, CH 2 -CO, CO-NH, CH = N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC) CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH 2 -CH2-CH2, CH2-NH-CO, CH = C (CH3) -CO, NH-CO-NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N (CH3) -CH2, NH-CH2-NH, COCH (CH3) ) -CH 2, CO-CH 2 -CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH (COOH) -CH 2, COCH = C (COOH), CO-CH = C (CH 3), CO-C (NH 2) = CH, CO-C (CH 3) = N, COCH = CH, CO-CH = N and CO-N = CH. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the one or more compounds (a) are of formula (I) and are chosen from: - urea - methylurea - ethylurea - propylurea - n-butylurea - sec-butylurea - isobutylurea - tert-butylurea - cyclopentylurea - ethoxyurea - hydroxyethylurea - N- (2-hydroxypropyl) urea - N- (3-hydroxypropyl) urea - N- (2-dimethylaminopropyl) ) urea - N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) urea - 1- (3-hydroxyphenyl) urea - benzylurea - N-carbamoyl maleamide - N-carbamoyl maleamic acid - piperidinecarboxamide - 1,2,4- triazol-4-yl-urea - hydantoic acid - methyl allophanate - ethyl allophanate - acetylurea - hydroxyethyleneurea - 2- (hydroxyethyl) ethyleneurea - diallylurea - chloroethylurea - N , N-dimethylurea - N, N-diethylurea - N, N-dipropylurea - cyclopentyl-1-methylurea - 1,3-dimethylurea - 1,3-diethylurea - 1,3-bi s (2-hydroxyethyl) urea - 1,3-bis (2-hydroxypropyl) urea - 1,3-bis (3-hydroxypropyl) urea - 1,3-dipropylurea - ethyl-3-propylurea - the sec- butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl-3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea, and benzylurea. 4. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the one or more compounds (a) are of formula (II) and are chosen from: - parabanic acid - 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2 , 4-triazol-2-one - barbituric acid - uracil - 1-methyl uracil - 3-methyl uracil - the 5-methyl uracil - 1,3-dimethyl uracil - 5-aza uracil - the 6-aza uracil - 5-fluoro uracil - 6-fluoro uracil - 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluoro uracil - 5-amino uracil - 6-amino uracil - 6-amino-1-methyl uracil 6-amino-1,3-dimethyl-uracil - 4-chloro uracil - 5-chloro uracil - 5,6-dihydro-uracil - 5,6-dihydro-5-methyl-uracil - 2-imidazolidone - 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone - 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone-4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one - 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2-imidazolidinone 2-hydroxypropyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 1- (3-hydroxypropyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one - 1,3-bis (2- hydroxyethyl) -2-imidazolidinone - 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid - 1- (2-aminoethyl) -2-imidazole - 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine - 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one - hydantoin - 1-methylhydantoin - 5-methylhydantoin - 5,5-dimethylhydantoin - 5-ethylhydantoin - the 5-n-pro pylhydantoin - 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin - 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin - 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin - 1-allylhydantoin - 1-aminohydantoin - hydantoin 5-acetic acid - 4-amino-1 2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione - hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one - the 1-methyl-tetrahydro-pyrimidin-2-one - 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine - urazole - 4-methylurazole - orotic acid - dihydroxyorotic acid - 2,4 , 5-trihydroxypyrimidine - 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine-4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine - barbituric acid - 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid - cyanuric acid - 1-methyl hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione - 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone - 5- (hydroxymethyl-2,4- (1H, 3H) -pyrimidinedione - 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid - 6-azathymine - 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one - N-carbamoylmaleamic acid and - alloxane monohydrate. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more compounds (a) are urea or hydroxyethylurea. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more compounds (a) represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 10%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohol, and non-salified fatty acids. , fatty amines, alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain, silicones and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are one or more non-silicone liquid fatty substances chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-salified fatty acids and alkoxylans having a fatty chain. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified by the chosen organofunctional groups. among the amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups and mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from oleic acid, avocado oil, liquid petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more said fatty substances represent from 40 to 90% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, and preferably nonionic or cationic surfactants. . 13. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair. 14. A method of smoothing keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying the composition as defined in claims 1 to 12 to the keratinous fibers; then (ii) a step of raising the temperature of the keratin fibers, using a heating means, at a temperature ranging from 25 to 250 ° C. 15. The method of claim 14, characterized in that the temperature is raised using a heating means at a temperature ranging from 100 to 250 ° C, preferably from 150 to 230 ° C.