FR2966356A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for the cosmetic treatment of hair and as shampoo to facilitate disentangling of the hair, comprises alkoxysilane compounds having one or more fatty chain and other alkoxysilanes - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises: alkoxysilane compounds (I) having one or more fatty chain; and one or more alkoxysilanes (II) different from (I). Cosmetic composition comprises: alkoxysilane compounds having one or more fatty chain of formula (R1Si(OR2) 3) (I); and one or more alkoxysilanes different from (I). R : 7-18C alkyl or 7-18C alkenyl group; and R2 : 1-6C alkyl group, preferably ethyl. An independent claim is included for process for the cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising applying a composition to the hair, and optionally rinsing after possible exposure time, in presence or absence of heat.

Description

B 10-2765 1 Cosmetic composition comprising a fatty-chain alkoxysilane and an alkoxysilane different from the first.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes and one or more alkoxysilanes of different chemical structure. The subject of the present invention is also the use of said composition for the care of keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair, as well as a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using a such composition. In the field of hair cosmetics, it is customary to treat keratinous fibers subjected to various external aggressions. Indeed, these fibers can undergo assaults of various origins, such as mechanical aggression, for example related to disentangling or blow drying, or chemical aggression, for example following a coloring or a permanent. These attacks have repercussions on the qualities of the keratinous fiber and can induce a difficult disentangling during the washing of the hair, as well as a degradation of the surface properties of the fibers, said surface becoming non-smooth and irregular, more particularly when the hair is dry. There are care products that can limit these phenomena. However, these solutions, not always effective enough, are not sufficiently remanent to shampoos. The compositions of the prior art which make it possible to facilitate disentangling by softening the keratin fiber and which bring shine, softness and regularity to the dried hair essentially comprise cationic surfactants, fats, silicones and cationic polymers. After being applied, these compositions are rinsed and the cosmetic conditioning agents, which are only slightly deposited on the keratinous fibers, are generally removed at the time of the following washing.

B 10-2765 2 Thus, the application of these compositions must be renewed after each wash, to treat the hair and facilitate their conditioning. There is therefore a need for compositions that can form a material or have care agents deposited homogeneously on and / or in the keratinous fibers, and this in a manner that is non-uniform to several shampoos. International patent application WO 2004/012691 discloses the cosmetic use of silanes for improving the condition of the hair. The patent application EP 0 159 628 proposes compositions for strengthening the elasticity of the hair, comprising an alkyltrialkoxysilane. Furthermore, the patent application EP 1 736 139 describes a hair treatment composition comprising an alkoxysilane, an organic acid and water, the pH of the composition being between 2 and 5. Finally, the patent application EP No. 0 877 027 discloses a composition comprising an organosilane and a particular polyol.

The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of a particular fatty-chain alkoxysilane with at least one alkoxysilane of different chemical structure made it possible to treat the hair in an efficient and durable manner, and thus to facilitate their conditioning.

In particular, such a composition makes it possible, on the one hand, to confer good cosmetic properties on the hair and, on the other hand, to provide residual cosmetic effects to several shampoos. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of formula (I) below: R 1 Si (OR 2) 3 (I) B 10-2765FR 3 in which R 1 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group , linear or branched, comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and Rz represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - one or more alkoxysilanes different from those of formula (I). This particular combination has proved particularly suitable for hair care and has also made it possible to obtain very good use qualities such as particularly easy application and good rinsability. The composition according to the invention provides the hair with excellent cosmetic properties, and in particular promotes detangling, suppleness and smoothing of the hair. In addition, the feel of the hair after treatment with the composition according to the invention is particularly pleasant. Finally, the conditioning properties obtained by means of the composition according to the invention are remanent to shampoos. Another subject of the invention consists of a process for the cosmetic treatment of hair using a composition according to the invention. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not, applied under the effect of heat or not, and associated or not with chemical and / or mechanical treatments of the hair. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, such as human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes and one or more alkoxysilanes different from those of formula (I). The fatty-chain alkoxysilane (s) used in the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to the following formula (I): embedded image

in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and Rz represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon and even more preferably the ethyl group. Where R 1 is an alkyl or alkenyl group and R 2 is an alkyl group, they include only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

Preferably, Rz represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group. Preferably, R 1 represents an alkyl group, and still more preferably a linear alkyl group.

Preferably, the fatty-chain alkoxysilane is chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane. More particularly, the fatty-chain alkoxysilane according to the invention is octyltriethoxysilane (OTES).

The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 20% by weight. , 5 to 18% by weight, better still 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alkoxysilanes different from those of formula (I). These alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are preferably compounds of formula (G) 4 -XSi (OR) X, with x denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 3, G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R designating a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising one or more carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms. Preferably, the alkoxysilane (s), different from those of formula (I), contain two or three alkoxy functional groups.

Preferably, the alkoxy functional group (s) are chosen from methoxy and ethoxy functions.

According to a particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane (s), different from those of formula (I), comprise one or more solubilizing functional groups.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solubilising functional group" is intended to mean any functional chemical group facilitating the dissolution of the alkoxysilane in the medium of the composition, that is to say in the solvent or solvent mixture of composition, in

especially in water or in hydroalcoholic mixtures.

As solubilizing functional group that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of the primary, secondary and tertiary amine groups, aromatic amine, carboxylic acid alcohol, sulphonic acid, anhydride, carbamate, urea, guanidine, aldehyde,

ester, amide, epoxy, pyrrole, dihydroimidazole, gluconamide, pyridyl and polyether.

This or these alkoxysilanes containing one or more solubilizing functional groups may contain one or more silicon atoms.

The alkoxysilane (s) containing one or more solubilizing functional groups generally contain two or three alkoxy functions. Preferably, the alkoxy functions are methoxy or ethoxy functions.

According to one particular embodiment, the one or more alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from compounds of the following formula (II): ## STR1 ## in which:

R6 represents a halogen, a group OR 'or R'6,

R7 represents a halogen, a group OR "or R'7, 2966356 B 10-2765FR

R 6 represents a halogen, a group OR "'or R'g,

R3, R4, R5, R ', R ", R"', R'6, R'7, R'g represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally bearing groups

5 additional chemical, R3, R4, R ', R "and R"' may further denote hydrogen, at least two of the groups R6, R7 and Rg being different groups R'6, R'7 and R'g at least two of the groups R ', R "and R"' being different from hydrogen.

Preferably, the groups R 3, R 4, R ', R' 6, R '7, R' 8, R "and R" '

Are selected from C1 to C12 alkyl, C6 to C14 aryl, C1 to C6 aryl C6 to C14 alkyl, and C6 to C14 alkyl C1 to C6 aryl.

According to a preferred embodiment of this embodiment, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I),

Include a substituent comprising a primary amine function, and are selected from compounds of the following formula (III): OR / H2N (CH2) n Si-OR OR wherein the same or different R groups are selected from groups C1-C6 alkyl and n is an integer of 1 to 6, preferably 2 to 4.

A particularly preferred alkoxysilane according to this embodiment is γ-aminopropyl triethoxysilane. Such a compound is

For example sold under the name Z-6011 Silane by the company Dow Corning.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the one or more alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from compounds of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein: R11 is halogen or OR '11 and R12 is halogen or OR' 12, at least one of R11 and R12 being different from halogen, R11 and R12 represent, independently of one another, hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon group, at least one of R '11 and R'12 being different from hydrogen, R9 is a non-hydrolyzable functional group with a cosmetic effect, and Rlo is a non-hydrolyzable functional group carrying a function chosen from amine, carboxylic acid and their salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, polyalcohol such as glycol polyether, such as polyalkylene ether, and phosphoric acid and its salts. The term "functional group having a cosmetic effect" means a group chosen from groups derived from a reducing agent, an oxidizing agent, a coloring agent, a polymer, a surfactant, a antibacterial or UV filter. Examples of groups derived from a coloring agent are, inter alia, aromatic, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, azo, xanthene, triarylmethane, azine, indoaniline, indophenolic or indoaminic nitro groups. Examples of reducing groups are, for example, thiol groups, sulfinic acid or sulphinic acid salt. As an example of an alkoxysilane of formula (IV), mention may be made of aminopropyl-N- (4,2-dinitrophenyl) aminopropyldiethoxysilane. Such compounds are, for example, described in EP Patent Application No. 1,216,023. The alkoxysilane (s) different from those of formula (I) may also be chosen from compounds of formula (V). ) next

/ R14 R13 Si-R15 R1s (V)

wherein: R14 is halogen, OR14 or Ro, R15 is halogen, OR'15 or R'0, R16 is halogen, OR '16 or R'0, two or more R14, R15 and R16 groups being different from the groups Ro, R'o and R "o, R13 is a group selected from groups bearing at least one functional group selected from carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, polyalkyl ethers. Ro, R'o, R "o, R'14, R'15 and R'16 represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon group, optionally carrying additional chemical functions. selected from carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, and polyalkyl ethers, R'14, R'15 and R'16 may further denote hydrogen, two at least R'14, R 'groups; And R '16 being different from hydrogen, R'14, R'15 and R'16, Ro, R'o and R "o are preferably C1-C12 alkyl, aryl are C6-C14, C6-C14 C1-C8-aryl alkyl, or C6-C14-C1-C6 alkyl-aryl. According to another embodiment, the one or more alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from the following compounds of formula (VI): ## STR2 ## wherein R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent R21, R22, R21 and R22 independently of one another; a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x is a variant integer from 1 to 3, y = 3-x, x 'is an integer varying from del to 3, y' = 3-x ', p = 0 or 1, p' = 0 or 1, p "= 0 or 1, q = 0 or 1, q '= 0 or 1, it being understood that at least q or q' is different from zero, B, B 'and B "each independently represent a divalent linear or branched C1-C20, R23 and R'23 each independently represent an atom of hy or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether groups, C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C 6 -C 6 aryl C30, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted with one or more C3-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups. As previously explained, R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By "hydrocarbon chain" is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Similarly, R23 and R'23 may represent a hydrocarbon chain. In this case, it is preferable to mean a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably, the aromatic ring has from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical. Preferably, R21 = R'21, R22 = R'22, x = x ', Y = Y', P = P ', A = A', q = 1 and q '= 0.

The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (VI) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: R21, R22, R'21 and R'22, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkyl; C4, - p = p '= 1, - B and B', which are identical or different, represent a linear C1-C4 alkylene and - R23 is hydrogen.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from the following compounds of formula (VII): (R240) x "(R25) Y Si (E) wherein R24 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x "= 2 or 3, y" = 3-x "n '= 0 or 1, n" = 0 or 1, E and E 'each independently represent a divalent linear or branched C1-C20 alkylene group, R26 and R27 each independently represent hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more gr Etps B 10-2765EN 11 ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic cycle, heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic, optionally substituted with one or more ester groups of C1-C20 alcohol, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl, r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4, r '= 0 or 1, the R28 group (s) independently represent hydrogen or saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 1 o, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether groups, C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl , an alkoxysilane, a C 6 -C 30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl. As previously explained, R24 and R25 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By "hydrocarbon chain" is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Similarly, R26 and R27 may represent a hydrocarbon chain. In this case, it is preferable to mean a chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the aromatic ring has from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl group. The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (VII) may have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: R 24 is C 1 -C 4 alkyl, - x "= 3, n '= n" = 1, r = r' = 0, R26 and R27 independently represent hydrogen or a group selected from C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups.

In particular, the alkoxysilane (s) of formula (VII) may be chosen from:

3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, of formula: O (CiH 2) 3 -Si (OCiH 3) 3 H 2 N - p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of formula: Si (OCH 3) 3 and

N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane of the formula: CH 2 NH (CH 2) 2 NH 2. The alkoxysilane (s), different from those of formula (I), may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) below and their acetals.

(R290) XI (R30) yl Si (A1) sCH = O (VIII) wherein R29 and R30 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, xl = 2 or 3, yl = 3-xl, Al represents a divalent alkylene linear group; or branched, C1-C20, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more C1-C30 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, s = 0 or 1. As previously explained, R29 and R30 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain. By "hydrocarbon chain" is preferably meant a chain having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The alkoxysilane (s) of formula (VIII) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: R 29 and R 30 are chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyls, s = 1, Al is a C 1 -C 4 linear alkylene. In particular, the alkoxysilane (s) of formula (VIII) may be chosen from:

triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde, of formula: (CH3CH2O) 3Si (CH2) 3CH = O - triethoxysilylundecanal, of formula:

(CH 3 CH 2 O) 3 Si (CH 2) 10 CH = 0 and triethoxysilylundecanal, ethylene glycol acetal of formula: (CH 3 CH 2 O) 3 Si (CH 2) 10 CH (OCH 2) 2.

The preferred compound of formula (VIII) is triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde. This compound is for example B 10-2765FR 14 sold under the name SIT 8185.3 by the company GELEST. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the one or more alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from di- and / or trialkoxysilanes having one or more substituents comprising one or more amine functional groups. According to an even more preferred embodiment, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from trialkoxysilanes having a substituent comprising one or more amine functions, more particularly from the compounds of formula (III). Of these particularly preferred alkoxysilanes, aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) is most preferred. The alkoxysilane (s), different from those of formula (I), are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight. more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are present in the compositions according to the invention such that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane (s) of formula (I) on the one hand and the amount of alkoxysilane (s) of different chemical structure on the other hand is greater than or equal to 0.1. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane (s) of formula (I) on the one hand and the amount of alkoxysilane (s) different from those of formula (I) ) on the other hand is preferably from 0.2 to 10, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more thickeners. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" is understood to mean an agent which, introduced at 1% by weight in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% of ethanol, and at pH = 7, allows B 10-2765 to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 sec. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).

The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 20 carboxylic acid, such as coconut acid monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanolamide, and acid monoethanolamide. oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic, nonionic cellulosic thickeners, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives such as hydroxypropylguar, gums of microbial origin such as gum xanthan, scleroglucan gum, crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and associative polymers as described below. The associative polymer or polymers that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by the presence of at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The associative polymer or polymers that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as, for example, the polymers sold under the names Pemulen Tri or TR2 by the company Goodrich, whose INCI name is Acrylates / C10. -30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO. Among the thickening agents mentioned, use is preferably made of nonionic cellulosic thickeners, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, and associative polymers such as acrylic acid / stearyl methacrylate copolymers, acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers. crosslinked, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate (SMDI) / alkyl terminated polyethylene glycol copolymers. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight of thickening agent (s), relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more organic acids.

By "organic acid" is meant any nonpolymeric organic compound having two or more carbon atoms and one or more acid functional groups selected from the carboxylic acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid functions. Preferably, the organic acid is not a surfactant.

Even more preferentially, the molecular weight of the organic acid is less than 250, better still less than 200. Even more preferentially, the organic acids according to the invention are chosen from carboxylic acids and alpha-hydroxylated carboxylic acids or AHAs.

Organic acids can be amino acids. The organic acid or acids are preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid and maleic acid. phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid. Even more preferably still, the organic acid used in the composition according to the invention is chosen from acetic acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and preferably is lactic acid. In the composition, the organic acid (s) may be in free or salified form. The organic acid (s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in a content expressed as free acids ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight. 1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably in a content ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particularly advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more nonionic surfactants. Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C1-C20) alkyl phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 atoms. carbon number, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan, optionally oxyethylenated, esters of fatty and sucrose acids, esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated. alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

Unless otherwise stated, the term "fatty" compound, for example a fatty acid, means a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl having at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The mono- or polyglycosides which can be used in the invention are well known and may be more particularly represented by the following general formula (IX): ## STR2 ## in which: R.sub.1 (R.sub.2); represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl group having from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, Rz represents an alkylene group comprising about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit having 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15. Preferred mono- or polyglycosides in the present invention are (C 8 -C 18) alkyl mono- or polyglycosides and are compounds of formula (IX) in which: R 1 denotes more particularly an alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched , comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v in formula (IX), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2. and still more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5. The glycosidic linkages between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, and preferably 1-4. Examples of compounds of formula (IX) are in particular caprylylglucoside, decylglucoside or caprylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside, cocoglucoside and mixtures thereof. These preferred compounds of formula (IX) may be the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). One can also use the products sold by the B 10-2765FR

SEPPIC under the trade names TRITON CG 110 or ORAMIX CG 110 and TRITON CG 312 or ORAMIX® NS 10, the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK .

It is also possible to use, for example, the alkyl (C 8 -C 16) -1, 4-polyglucoside in aqueous solution at 53%, marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

Of the nonionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use the optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides.

The nonionic surfactant (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, silicones, non-siliceous fatty substances, solid particles, reducing agents, and oxidizing agents. .

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.

The cationic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example - those having the following general formula (X) + Rs / R10 / N

Wherein the Rg to RH groups, which may be the same or different, each represents an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of Rg to R11 having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C12) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl- or alkyl (C1 C4) arylsulphonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or finally palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of the following formula (XI): ## STR2 ## R13 / CH2CH2N (R15) -CO-R12NN / R14

wherein R12 is alkenyl or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates , (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO, - quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of the following formula (XII): R17 R19 R16-N- (CH2) NI -R21 R18 R2o (XII) wherein R16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1-4 carbon atoms, and a - (CH2) 3-N + (R16a) (R17a) (R18a) group; R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and a 2 + 2X- + XB 10-2765FR 22 alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), and quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as for example, those of the following formula (XIII): ## STR2 ## wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, R23 is selected from: O

- the group R2s C-, - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, - the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: O II - the group R2s c- - the groups R29 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-containing hydrocarbons, R 24, R 26 and R 28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or branched C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon-based groups; unsaturated, B 10-2765FR 23 r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers of from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an organic acid derivative anion such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible ammonium ester anion. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: O - the group R2sc-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: II - the group R2s c-, - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Examples of the compounds of formula (XIII) that may be mentioned include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable origin. animal, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate. methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate and 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. When present, the amount of the cationic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO2H, -CO2-, -SO3H, -SO3-, -OSO3H, -OSO3, -H2PO3, -HPO3, -PO32, -H2PO2, = HPO2, -HPO2, = PO2 -, = POH, = P0-. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoesters salts of alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl acid salts amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, alkyl and acyl groups. all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates. and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine and the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-one. propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Of the abovementioned anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. In particular, it is preferred to use alkyl (C 12 -C 20) sulphates, alkyl (C 12 -C 20) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohol , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

When present, the amount of the anionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), preferably non-silicone, which may be used in the present invention, may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain. or branched having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8) alkyl sulphobetaines.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of the following respective structures (Al) and (A2): RaCONHCH2CH2N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2O2- ) (Al)

wherein: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra, CONHCH2CH2N (B) (B ') (A2) wherein: B represents the group -CH2CH2OX', B 'represents the group - (CH2), Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'represents the group -CH 2 COOH, CH 2 COO 2 ', -CH 2 CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 O', or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 H or the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, Ra, represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra, 000H of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and their mixtures. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine. When present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may further comprise one or more silicones. They are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solubilized, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in the work of Walter Noll "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5.

It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by the company UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by the company RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE" 7158 "by the company UNION CARBIDE," SILBIONE 70045 V 5 "by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:

H3 ~ H3 with D ": - Si - O - with D ': - Si - O - 1 CH3 C3H17 Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) silicones linear volatiles having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10.6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the B 10 Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics .

When the silicones are nonvolatile, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is, for example, measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or oils MIRASIL marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil, MIRASIL series oils marketed by RHODIA, 200 series oils from Dow Corning, such as more particularly DC200. viscosity 60 000 Cst, - VISCASIL oils from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; oils of RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning, - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer as the PK20 product, - Silicones from the PN, PH series from the Bayer company, such as PN1000 products and PH1000, certain oils of SF series of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having average molecular weights in large numbers between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or mixed in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums methylvinylsiloxane.

More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature ) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning, the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000, solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - blends of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: RzSiOziz, R3SiO1i2, RSiO3i2 and SiO4i2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under B 10-2765EN 34 "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl structure. trimethyl siloxane. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinetsu. The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, thiol groups such as the products sold under the names " GP 72 A "and" GP 71 "from the company GENESEE, - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name" SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755 "by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, - hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 2,589,476; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732, anionic groups of the carboxylic type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent EP 186 507 of the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shinetsu, 2-hydroxyalkylsulphonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL 5255". hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones.

By "amino silicone" is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. The amino silicones optionally used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (XIV):

(R1) a (T) 3a-S1 [OS1 (T) 2] n- [OS1 (T) b (R1) 2-b] m-OS1 (T) 3-a- (R1) a (XIV) in which: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, hydroxyl (-OH), or C1-C8 alkyl, and preferably methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a is the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10, R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CgH2gL in wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from: -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2, B 10-2765EN 36-N (R 2) z, - N + (R 2) 3 Q, - N + (R 2) (H) z Q-, - N + (R 2) 2HQ-, -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, in which R 2 can designate a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group, for example a C1-C20 alkyl group, and Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XIV) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (XV): R 'Si A NH 1 (CH 2) 2 NHz (XV) in which R, R' , R ", identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH, A represents a linear or branched C 3 -C 8 alkylene group; preferably, C3-C6, m and n are integers dependent on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the The compound is about 5,000 to about 500,000. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone". According to a second possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents an alkylene group. in C3. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category of compounds, mention may be made inter alia of the Belsil®ADM 652 product marketed by WACKER.

According to a third possibility, R and R ", each different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, there may be mentioned the product F1uidWR® 1300, sold by the company Wacker. Note that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μl of a 0.5% solution are injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry). A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIV) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary.

"trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (XVI): ## STR1 ## wherein CH 3 CH 3

Wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (XIV). Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 0095238. A compound of formula (XVI) is for example sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI. (b) compounds having the following formula (XVII): R 4 CH 2 CHOH-CH 2 -N + (R 3) 3 R 3 Si O

1 R3 r s (XVII)

Wherein: R3 represents a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon group, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl, R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy group,

Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride,

R represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8,

s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.

A compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". c) quaternary ammonium silicones, in particular of formula (XVIII): ## STR2 ##

in which :

R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C1-C8 alkenyl group,

Or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,

R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy group connected to Si by an Si-C bond,

R 8, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 18 alkenyl group, a -R 6 -NHCOR 7 group, X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, ...), r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. d) the amino silicones of formula (XIX): SiO NH (mH2m) NH2 x R1

wherein R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, each denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, - RS denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and 20 - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. Especially preferred silicones are polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones and amodimethicones. When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.

By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant, of formula C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12". Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (XVI) described above, a non-surface active agent. ionic compound of formula: C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of the formula: C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) 6-OH, known under the name CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.

The silicones of the invention may also be anionic grafted silicones such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 proposed by the company 3M. In a more preferred embodiment, the silicone is a chemically unmodified polydimethylsiloxane.

The silicone or silicones may be present in contents ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more non-siliceous fatty substances.

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say with a solubility of less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%. The non-siliceous fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not including a siloxane group. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term "non-siliceous fatty substance" means a fatty substance whose structure does not contain silicon atoms. The fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain a carboxylic acid function COOH. Preferably, the non-siliceous fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty ethers, non-siliceous waxes and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, ceramides and their mixtures. They can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), in particular of mineral origin or vegetable, preferably of plant origin. More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, which may be cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal mineral origin or synthetic, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the trademark Parléam® by the company NOF CORPORATION, the squalane.

In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or not, and liquid petrolatum. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated. Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred. The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.

Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred. By liquid fatty esters is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). The esters are preferably the liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols. , the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived. is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of 2 ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and isononyl isononoate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri- , pentahydroxylated C4-C26 tetraou. Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, di-di-adipate and the like. (2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, citrate of trioctyldodecyl, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononate. The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives B 10-2765EN Especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures. These esters may be for example oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol. Among these, we can mention vegetable oils. As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides, used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example: triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat germ, sweet almond, apricot, safflower , bancouli nut, camellina, tamanu and lemon, babassu and pracaxi, triglycerides caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil , shea butter oil. Preferably, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used.

Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. The fatty substance (s) used in the composition according to the invention may also be non-liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). By "non-liquid" is preferably meant a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 s -1. More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-siliceous waxes and fatty, non-liquid and preferably solid ethers.

The non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).

As regards the fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned in particular solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, B 10-2765EN myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, mirystyl or stearyl myristate, and stearate of hexyl. Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols. di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C2-C26. These include diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, and dioctyl maleate. Of all the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate. The non-siliceous wax or waxes are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and ceramides. The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as the glycoceramides that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known in themselves and are natural or synthetic molecules capable of satisfying the following general formula (XX) R3CHOH-CH-CH2OR2 NH C = 0 1 R ~ (XX) in which: B 10-2765EN 48 - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group may be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or an omega-hydroxyl group, esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl), (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl group, in where n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8, - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted with one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14, being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The most preferred ceramides or ceramides according to the invention are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear C15 saturated group. Such compounds are, for example, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the ceramides for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids, R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl group and R 3 denotes a -CH =CH- (CH 2) 12 -CH 3 group. Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the non-siliceous fatty substances according to the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and ceramides. Even more preferably, the non-siliceous fatty substances are chosen from liquid petrolatum, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, oleic alcohol, palmitate and the like. isopropyl, isopropyl myristate, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-linoyldihydrosphingosine. The non-siliceous fatty substance or fats can be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10%, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. The composition may further comprise one or more solid particles. Among these may be present, in the composition according to the invention, anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione, selenium disulfide, ellagic acid, fillers, and in particular silica, titanium dioxide, pigments, dyes, abrasive powders such as pumice and apricot kernel powder. The composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more reducing agents, such as, in particular, sulfur reducing agents. These are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (-SH) groups, sulphites, and sulphite derivatives. By sulphite derivatives, bisulfites and sulphite diesters of the formula ROSO 2 R 'are defined, with R and R' denoting C 1 -C 10 alkyl groups. The organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds: thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2- B acid 10-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, thioglycolic or thiolactic acids, and mixtures of these compounds. The sulfur reducing agent (s) may especially be used in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts, the alkaline earth metal salts, for example the magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts. In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfur reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, alkali metal sulphites and in particular sodium sulphite, alkali metal bisulfites and in particular sodium bisulfite, and the precursors of these sulfites or bisulfites such as sodium metabisulfite. The sulfur reducing agent (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oxidizing agent. Such an oxidizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, persalts such as perborates and persulfates. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic polymers. The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. By "anhydrous" is meant a composition without added water, that is to say a composition whose water possibly present comes only from the water of crystallization or adsorption of the raw materials. In any event, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Whether anhydrous or aqueous, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more organic solvents which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid organic solvent (s) is (are) chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol and polyol ethers. C 5 -C 10 alkanes, C 3 -C 4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C 1 -C 4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate , dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, silicone oils and non-siliceous liquid fatty substances described above, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9, and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferably, it vade3 to6. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application or else using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, there may be mentioned, for example, the organic acids already mentioned above or the mineral acids. By "mineral acid" is meant any acid derived from a mineral compound. Among the mineral acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulphonic acids and nitric acid.

It will be possible to use inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium hydroxides or sodium hydroxides. of potassium and the compounds of the following formula: Ra. Wherein W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group

C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl.

Preferably, the pH adjusting agents may be chosen from alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino 2-methyl-1-

Propanol or acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from fixing polymers, pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol,

Water-soluble and fat-soluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, conditioning agents other than the silicones and cationic polymers mentioned above, solubilizing agents, anti-oxidizing agents, different anti-dandruff agents of those

Mentioned above, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss and / or regrowth agents, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers and preservatives, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The person skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives. and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Whether in rinsed mode or in rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done in the presence of heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature can be between 40 and 220 ° C. The application of the composition according to the invention to hair can be done on dry hair or wet hair. It can in particular be carried out after shampooing or after pretreatment at acidic or basic pH. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1 The compositions according to the invention were prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below. Fatty chain alkoxysilane of formula (I) (1) 10% Alkoxysilane different from the compounds of formula (I) (2) 10% Thickener (3) 1% Surfactant (4) 5% pH agents qs pH 3 Water qs 100% (1) The alkoxysilane of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds: octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane. (2) the alkoxysilane different from the compounds of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds: aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), triethoxysilylbutyraldehyde, bis [trimethoxysilylpropyl] amine. (3) the thickener is chosen from the following families: cellulose derivatives, guar gums, xanthan gum, associative polymers, such as the acrylic acid / crosslinked alkyl acrylate copolymer, the alkyl terminated SMDI / polyethylene glycol copolymer. (4) the surfactant is selected from an alkylpolyglucoside, an alkylbetaine.

EXAMPLE 2 A composition according to the invention (composition A) is compared with a comparative composition (composition B) comprising no alkoxysilane other than that of formula (I).

Composition A according to the invention and Composition B outside the invention were prepared according to the formulations given in the table above. 2966356 B 10-2765EN 55 AB Octyltriethoxysilane (5) 5% 5% Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (6) 5% - Coco glucoside (7) 1% 1% Hydroxyethylcellulose (8) 0.6% 0.6% Lactic acid 2% 2% Hydroxide sodium qs pH 3.5 qs pH 3.5 Water qs 100% qs 100% (5) marketed under the name Dynasilan OCTEO by the company EVONIK. (6) sold under the name XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE by the company Dow Corning. 5 (7) marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 UP by the company COGNIS. (8) sold under the name Natrosol 250 HHR PC by ASHLAND.

Treatment The above compositions were tested on streaks of discolored hair. 1 g of each of these compositions was applied by wick of 2.7 g. The application was done at room temperature on damp hair after shampooing. The treatments carried out with the composition A, according to the invention, show very good qualities of use, such as in particular ease of application and rinsing, as well as good quality of the touch after rinsing.

Sensory analysis: A panel of experts then carried out a comparative evaluation between the compositions A and B, assigning a score ranging from 0 (low) to 5 (very good) for each of the cosmetic properties of the damp hair, listed in the table below. The averages of the scores obtained are as follows: B 10-2765EN 56 AB Untangling 4.8 4.0 Flexibility 4.5 3.5 Smoothing 4.0 3.2 Dislocated 4.5 3.5 These results show that treatment with Composition A of the invention provides greater ease of disentangling, flexibility and looseness on wet hair.

These results also show that the hair is smoother with composition A according to the invention.

A study of shampoo persistence of cosmetic effects observed at application was also performed by the same panel of experts. After ten shampoos, the average scores obtained for compositions A and B are as follows: AB disentanglement 4,5 3,2 Flexibility 4,5 3,0 Smoothing 4,0 3,0 Looseness 4,5 3,0 After ten shampoos the flexibility, the smoothing, as well as the properties of hairline and disentangling are not preserved for the composition B while they are for the composition A according to the invention.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: one or more fatty-chain alkoxysilanes of the following formula (I): RS i (O Rz) 3 (1) in which R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms carbon, and Rz represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and one or more alkoxysilanes different from those of formula (I). 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that Rz represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group. 3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 characterized in that R1 represents an alkyl group, and even more preferably a linear alkyl group. 4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the alkoxysilane of formula (I) is chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane. 5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the alkoxysilane of formula (I) is octyltriethoxysilane. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkoxysilane (s) of formula (I) are present in proportions of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight. % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 18% by weight, better still from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are compounds of formula (G) 4_XSi (OR) X, with x denoting a whole number ranging from 1 to 3, G denoting identical or different monovalent groups and R denoting a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising one or more carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, and are preferably chosen from: - compounds of formula (II) R 6 is a halogen, a group OR 'or R' 6, R 7 is a halogen, a group OR "or R '7, R 8 is a halogen, a group OR "'or R'g, R3, R4, R5, R', R", R "', R'6, R'7, R'g represent, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, R3, R4, R ', R "and R"' being in addition, denote hydrogen, at least two of the groups R6, R7 and Rg being different from the groups R'6, R'7 and R'g, two or more of the groups R ', R "and R"' being different from hydrogen, the following compounds of formula (IV): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents a halogen or a group OR '11 and R 12 represents a halogen or a group OR' 12, one at least R11 and R12 groups being different from a halogen, R'11 and R'12 represent, independently of one another, hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated linear or substituted C1-C14 hydrocarbon group; branched, at least one of the groups R '11 and R'12 being different from hydrogen, R9 is a non-hydrolyzable functional group with a cosmetic effect, and Rio is a non-hydrolyzable functional group carrying a function selected from the group consisting of amine functions, carboxylic acid and their salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, polyalcohol such as glycol, polyether such as polyalkylene ether, and ph acid phosphoric acid and its salts, - the compounds of formula (V) below: wherein R 14 represents a halogen, a group OR '14 or Ro, R 15 represents a halogen, a group OR' Or R'o, R16 is halogen, OR '16 or R "o, two or more R14, R15 and R16 are different from Ro, R'o and R" o, R13 is a chosen group among the groups carrying at least one functional group chosen from carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, polyalkyl ethers, Ro, R'o, R "o, R'14, R'15 and R'16 represent , independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C14 hydrocarbon group, optionally carrying additional chemical functions chosen from carboxylic acid functions and its salts, sulphonic acid and its salts, and polyalkyl ethers, R'14 , R'15 and R'16 may further designate hydrogen, at least two of R'14 groups, R'15 and R'16 being diffé Hydrogen compounds, - compounds of the following formula (VI): (R 21 O) X (R 22) y Si (B) pLNR 23 (B "p ') qLNR' 23 (B") p "] q, Si (R) Wherein R21, R22, R'21 and R'22 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, Optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y = 3-x, x 'is a variant integer 1 to 3, y '= 3-x', p = 0 or 1, p '= 0 or 1, p "= 0 or 1, q = 0 or 1, q' = 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least q or q 'is different from zero, B, B' and B "each independently represent a divalent linear or branched C1 to C20 alkylene group, R23 and R'23 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a chain saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, linear or branched, cont optionally, one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether groups, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic, heterocyclic ring; or not, optionally substituted by one or more C 3 -C 20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups, - the compounds of formula (VII) below: (R 2 O 4) x - Wherein: R24 and R25 each independently represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x "= 2 or 3, y" = 3-x "n '= O or 1, n" = 0 or 1, E and E' represent each independently a linear or branched divalent alkylene group C1-C20, R26 and R27 each independently represent hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, alcohol ester in C1-C20, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester groups, amine, amide, carboxyl , alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl, r is an integer ranging from 0 to 4, r '= 0 or 1, the R28 group (s) each independently represent hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 10, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted by one or more ether groups, C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, mine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C 6 -C 30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, or an aromatic ring, heterocyclic or not, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester groups, amine, amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl , carbonyl or acyl, and - the compounds of formula (VIII) below and their acetals: (R290) X1 (R30) yi Si (Al) sCH = O (VIII) wherein R29 and R30 each independently represent a hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups selected from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, x1 = 2 or 3, yl = 3-xl, Al represents a divalent linear or branched C1-C20 alkylene group, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more C1-C30 alcohol ester groups, amine, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl, s = 0 or 1. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkoxysilanes or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are chosen from di- and / or trialkoxysilanes having one or more substituents comprising one or more amine functions, preferably from trialkoxysilanes having a substituent comprising one or more amine functions, more particularly from the compounds of formula (III), and more preferably aminopropyltriethoxysilane. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkoxysilane or alkoxysilanes, different from those of formula (I), are present in proportions of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01 to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of fatty-chain alkoxysilane (s) of formula (I) on the one hand and the amount of alkoxysilane (s) different (s) those of formula (I) on the other hand is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably ranges from 0.2 to 10, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more thickening agents, preferably chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, and associative polymers such as acrylic acid / methacrylate copolymers. stearyl, acrylic acid / crosslinked alkyl acrylate copolymers, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate (SMDI) / alkyl-terminated polyethylene glycol copolymers, and preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more organic acids, preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid and lactic acid. , malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid , gluconic acid and citric acid, and even more preferentially lactic acid, and preferably present in a content expressed as free acids ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8 % by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from: - alpha-diols, alkyl (C 1 -C 20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which can range from 2 to 30, for example ethylene-propylene oxide copolymers, optionally oxyethylenated esters of fatty and sorbitan acids, esters of sucrose and fatty acids, and esters of acids. polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides, amine oxides, and preferably armi optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additives chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, silicones, non-siliceous fatty substances, solid particles. reducing agents and oxidizing agents. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous. 16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is aqueous. 17. A method of cosmetic hair treatment, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, and then to perform or not rinse after a possible time. laying, with or without heat. 18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 for the care of the hair.