FR3004643A1 - METHOD FOR LOOP RETENTION AND / OR KERATIN FIBER SMOOTHING USING A REDUCING COMPOSITION AND A NEUTRALIZING COMPOSITION, AND A CLEANING KIT - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a process for loosening loops and / or smoothing keratinous fibers such that the hair comprises: a) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of a first composition (A); followed by, b) an application step on the keratinous fibers of a second composition (B); said composition (A) comprising: (i) one or more surfactant (s), (ii) one or more sulfur reducing agent (s), (iii) one or more alkaline agent (s) ( s); said composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s) and / or one or more reductone (s). The present invention also relates to a kit for relaxation of loop and / or smoothing of keratin fibers, suitable for implementing the method as defined above.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for loosening loops and / or smoothing keratinous fibers, such as those used in the manufacture of loops and / or smoothing of keratin fibers using a reducing composition and a neutralizing composition. hair, comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of a first composition (A) comprising one or more surfactant (s), one or more sulfur reducing agent (s) and one or more agent (s) ( s) alkaline (s); and a step of applying to the keratinous fibers a second composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s) and / or one or more reductone (s). The invention also relates to a device with several compartments or "kit" suitable for the implementation of such a method. To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair such as a smoothing of the hair, a straightening or relaxation of loops, the most used technique consists, in a first time, to realize the opening of the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin ( keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a sulfur reducing agent (reduction step) then, after having rinsed generally with water the hair so treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously energized, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. The new form imposed on the hair by such a chemical treatment is eminently durable over time and particularly resistant to the action of washing with water or by shampoos, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as bets. in fold.

Many products intended for smoothing, straightening the hair or relaxing loops exist on the market. Products intended for smoothing or straightening are generally formulated from thiols and alkaline agents, while products intended for relaxation of loops contain rather products of the cysteine type and its derivatives. These products are generally applied to curly or bulky hair in order to obtain a more or less pronounced smoothing, a reduction in the volume and mass of the hair.

The application of these products is generally long, with a laying time more or less long depending on the product, the type of hair and the desired effect. It requires precise know-how. In addition, the reducing agents are generally employed at high concentrations, which may cause more or less degradation of the hair fiber, especially when these are colored. In addition, the implementation of such a smoothing treatment is a generally drastic choice for the consumer, who can not regulate the level of smoothing according to his choice.

Finally, the implementation of such a smoothing treatment generally causes odor problems that prove to be inconvenient for the consumer. There is therefore a real need to develop hair lightening treatments, lighter than those existing in the state of the art, which not only degrade less the hair fiber, but also are easy to apply, allow a modulation of the smoothing effect, for example by using repeated applications and a reduction of odors resulting from the implementation of such a method.

The Applicant has now discovered that the implementation of a particular method in at least two steps made it possible to meet the aforementioned objectives. In particular, it has discovered that the implementation of a method comprising a step of applying to the keratinous fibers, a first composition (A) comprising one or more surfactant (s), one or more agents (s) sulfur reducer (s) and one or more alkaline agent (s); then a step of application to the keratinous fibers, of a second composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s) and / or one or more reductone (s), allowed relaxation of loops and / or a smoothing of keratinous fibers under conditions that make it possible to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art. The subject of the present invention is therefore a process for relaxing loops and / or smoothing keratinous fibers, such as the hair comprising: a) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of a first composition (A); followed by, b) an application step on the keratinous fibers of a second composition (B); said composition (A) comprising: (i) one or more surfactant (s), (ii) one or more sulfur reducing agent (s), and (iii) one or more alkaline agent (s) (s); said composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s) and / or one or more reductone (s). The implementation of such a method is fast and simple, and does not require any particular know-how. In addition, the implementation of this method makes it possible to obtain relaxation of loops and / or a reduction in the volume of the hair, which is progressive. In particular, it is possible to modulate the desired effect, by successive implementations of such a method. In particular, this method can be implemented to maintain the smoothing, especially between two smoothing operations.

In addition, the compositions used in this process have good detergency properties and very good use qualities. Finally, the implementation of the process according to the invention does not substantially degrade the capillary fibers.

Finally, the process according to the invention makes it possible to substantially reduce the uncomfortable odors resulting from the implementation of a loop relaxation and / or conventional smoothing method. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. The first composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more surfactant (s). The surfactants that can be used according to the invention are especially chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The nonionic surfactant (s) usable in the first composition (A) used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. The composition (A) may thus comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s), which may preferably be chosen from the following nonionic surfactants: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, and having one or two fatty chains; - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; esters of sucrose fatty acids, (C 8 -C 30) alkyls (poly) glucosides, (C 8 -C 30) alkenyl (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 units; glucose, (C8-C30) alkyl esters (poly) glucosides, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; derivatives of N-alkyl (C 8 -C 30) glucamine and N-acyl (C 8 -C 30) methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, and mixtures thereof. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably from 1 to 250, more preferably from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges from 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants that can be used according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. As an example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used. By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, and alcohol. oleic acid with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, alcohol 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 / C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.

The at least one nonionic surfactant (s) that can be used in the first composition (A) used according to the invention are more preferably chosen from: - C 8 -C 40 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and having one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; - (C8-C30) alkyls (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 0E) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; - C8-C40 alcohols, mono- or poly-glycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - and their mixtures. Even more preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the first composition (A) used according to the invention are chosen from: saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 40 alcohols, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated and having one or two fatty chains, especially ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol; (C 8 -C 30) alkyl (poly) glucosides, especially caprylyl / capryl glucoside; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols and in particular PEG-8 isostearate; - and their mixtures. The first composition (A) used according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s).

The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -COOH, -SO 3 H, -SO 3 H, -PO 2 H 2, -PO 2 H-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O, = P ( 0) 0-, = POH, = PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium. As anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition (A) used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates and alkyl amide sulphonates. alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, the alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl groups e and acyl of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglucoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglucoside-tartrates and polyglucoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl. When the anionic surfactant (s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine and the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-one. propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxy-methyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferable to use (C6-C24) alkylsulphates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. In particular, it is preferred to use (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohol , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide. The first composition (A) may in particular comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition (A) used according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition (A) used according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (I): X (I) in which the groups R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylarylsulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyl dimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salts. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyls or alkylarylsulphonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (III): ## STR2 ## in which R 16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) ( R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, Rua, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein C1-C6 and hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl C1-C6 groups; R 23 is chosen from: - the group - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: R 26 C 0 R 28 - the group - R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C17 C6 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 2 6 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated and saturated C 1 -C 12 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 .

The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R23 is selected from o - the group R26 methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; R 25 is selected from 0 - the group - the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples which may be mentioned include compounds of formula (IV) such as the salts (especially of chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A4137180.

The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one useful ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts. Among the cationic surfactants above, it is particularly preferred to use those of formula (I) and those of formula (IV) and even more preferably those of formula (I) and in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. The first composition (A) used according to the invention may in particular comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition (A) used according to the invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the group aliphatic is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, mention may be made in particular of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 8) alkyl, C20) amido (C2-C8) alkylbetaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20alkyl) amido (C6-C8alkyl) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof; the compounds of respective structures (V), (VI) and (VII): Ra-C (O) -NHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C00-, M +, X- (V) Formula (V) wherein: Ra represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X- are absent; Ra'-C (O) -NHCH2-CH2-N (B) (B ') (VI) Formula (VI) wherein: B is -CH2-CH2-O-X'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2-CH2-COOH, -CH2-CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group.

Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate di sodium, caprylamphodipropionate di sodium, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate and the cocoamphodipropionate marketed by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade name REWOTERIC AM KSF 40.

Ra '-NH-CH (Y ") - (CH2) .- C (O) -NH- (CH2) .- N (Rd) (Re) (VII) Formula (VII) wherein: Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ", -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z"; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra "-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; Among these compounds of formula (VII), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylbetaine, cocoylamidopropylbetaine and sodium cocoylamidoethyl-N-hydroxyethylaminopropionate.

In a first particularly preferred variant, the first composition (A) used according to the invention comprises: - one or more surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), and - one or more surfactant (s) anionic (s).

In a second, more particularly preferred variant, the first composition (A) used according to the invention comprises: one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and one or more surfactant (s) cation (s).

In this second variant, the weight ratio between the total amount of the amphoteric surfactant (s) or zwitterionic (s) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) else part is preferably greater than or equal to 1.2.

Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 1.2 to 10, preferably from 1.5 to 8, and more preferably from 2 to 4. The surfactant (s) usable in the composition (A) put According to the invention, they are preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). The sulfur-reducing agent (s) present in the first composition (A) used according to the invention are preferably chosen from organic compounds containing one or more mercapto groups ( -SH), sulphites, sulphite derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, and the acid. 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetyl-cysteine, esters of thioglycolic or thiolactic acids, and mixtures of these compounds. Sulphite derivatives are essentially bisulfites, sulfite diesters of formula R-O-SO 2 -R 'with R and R' denoting C 1 to C 10 alkyl groups. The sulfur reducing agent (s) may be used especially in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium and calcium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and aminoalcohol salts.

In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfur-reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine and its salts, and alkali metal sulfites. , bisulfites of alkali metals. Even more preferably, the sulfur reductive agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, sodium sulphite, sodium bisulfite, and sodium metabisulphite. The sulfur reducing agent (s) used in the composition (A) used according to the invention are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight. and better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). The alkaline agent (s) used in the first composition (A) used according to the invention may be any agent for increasing the pH of the composition in which it is located. The alkaline agent may be a Bronsted-Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. In particular, the alkaline agent (s) may be chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanol amines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 methyl-1-propanol, and derivatives thereof, (c) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylene diamines, (d) inorganic or organic hydroxides, (e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, (f) amino acids of basic preferences such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine; g) carbonates and bicarbonates, especially of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium, h) the compounds of the following formula (VIII): wherein W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or C1-C6 aminoalkyl, i) and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds of formula (VIII) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine. The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, the hydroxides of a transition metal, such as the hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of Group III, IV, V and VI metals of the Periodic Table of Elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, and guanidinium hydroxide. The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide, formed by the reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. The preferred alkaline agents are in particular ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol. The agent (s) alkaline (s) as defined above may represent for example from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). ) implementation according to the invention. The concentration of alkaline agent (s) is in particular adjusted according to the desired pH for the composition (A).

Preferably, the composition (A) used according to the invention has a pH ranging from 7 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.5. The second composition (B) used according to the invention may comprise one or more oxidizing agent (s).

The at least one oxidizing agent (s) is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates and peracids. and their precursors and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and especially hydrogen peroxide. Preferably, the oxidizing agent (s) are not peroxygenated salts. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing agent (s) may represent, when present, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B). The second composition (B) used according to the invention may comprise one or more reductone (s).

In a manner known per se, the term "reductone" denotes a compound comprising a enediol structure - (HO) C = C (OH) - adjacent to a carbonyl group> C = O. Thus, the reductone (s) that may be used in the present invention are preferably of general formula (IX): R1 (HO) C = C (OH) -C-R2 (IX) o II with R1 and R 2, which are identical or different, each denoting a group containing at least one carbon and / or oxygen atom, R 1 and R 2 being capable of forming, with the three carbon atoms of the compound of formula (IX), a ring preferably of 5 or 6 linkages, the additional constituent atoms of which consist of carbon and / or oxygen atoms.

Preferably, R1 and R2 together with the three carbon atoms of the compound of formula (IX) form a ring with 5 carbon atoms and / or oxygen. The compound (s) of formula (IX) may be in acid form, or in the form of salts, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, or of alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium and magnesium, or in the form of esters including C6-C30 fatty acids. In a particularly preferred manner, the compound of formula (IX) is a lactone.

The reductone (s) may be chosen in particular from reductic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid or isoascorbic acid, and the salts of these compounds, especially the sodium or potassium salts, ascorbyl palmitate. , and mixtures of these compounds.

In a particularly preferred manner, the one or more reductones are chosen from ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and the salts of these compounds, in particular the sodium or potassium salts.

The reductone (s) may represent, when present, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B). When hydrogen peroxide is present in the composition (B) used according to the invention, it may further comprise one or more agent (s) stabilizer (s) hydrogen peroxide. The second composition (B) used according to the invention may comprise one or more pH regulating agent (s) which may be chosen from alkaline agents as described above and / or acidic agents. The acidic agents that may be used according to the present invention may preferably be chosen from hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid and also carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid or sulfonic acids. Preferably, the composition (B) used according to the invention has a pH ranging from 1 to 8.5, better still from 1 to 5, and more preferably from 1.5 to 3.

Advantageously, the compositions (A) and / or (B) used according to the invention may also contain one or more non-silicone fatty substances. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure, is insoluble in water (that is to say, has a solubility in the water). less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and is soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform , or benzene) to at least 1% by weight. By non-silicone is meant a fatty substance not comprising in its structure Si-O-Si chains. The fatty substance (s) that may be used in the present invention may be chosen especially from vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, waxes other than fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. As vegetable oil, there may be mentioned sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, liquid jojoba wax, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil , corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter, rice bran, corn germ oil, passionflower oil and rye oil. As animal oil, there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene. As mineral oil, mention may be made of paraffin oil and liquid petroleum jelly. As synthetic oil, there may be mentioned squalane, poly (α-olefins) such as isododecane or isohexadecane, transesterified vegetable oils, fluorinated oils, fatty esters. The term "fatty esters" denotes compounds of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a linear or branched, hydroxyl or non-saturated, saturated or unsaturated higher acid containing from 4 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a linear hydrocarbon-based chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than 10. By way of nonlimiting examples, mention may especially be made of purcellin oil (octanoate stearyl), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate of 2-octyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate or tridecyl neopentanoate. The fluorinated oils may be partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone, for example those described in JP-A-2-295912.

Preferred fatty alcohols include, among others, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl and erucyl alcohols. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (about 25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than about 40 ° C. and that can go up to 200 ° C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. Animal and vegetable waxes comprise, as essential components, esters of carboxylic acids and long-chain alcohols. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse the light, conferring on the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a homogeneous mixture microscopically. As waxes, other than the fatty alcohols that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, and vegetable waxes such as sunflower, rice, apple wax, carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, mineral waxes, for example , paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and mixtures thereof. The non-silicone fatty substance (s) as described above, when they are present in the compositions used according to the invention, are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight. weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Also advantageously, compositions (A) and / or (B) used according to the invention may further comprise one or more agents (s) swelling or emollience such as urea.

Also advantageously, the compositions used according to the invention may comprise at least one additional conditioning agent preferably chosen from silicones and / or cationic or amphoteric polymers.

By way of example of silicones that may be used as conditioning agent (s) in the compositions used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-volatile silicones. These silicones can be in the form of oils, resins or gums; they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile. When volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260 ° C. As a conditioning agent, cationic or amphoteric polymers such as in particular polyquaterniums 22, 6, 10, 11, 35 and 37 and hexadimethrin chloride are particularly preferred. The concentration of the additional conditioning agents described above in the compositions used according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. The compositions used according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvant (s) other than the compounds described above. For example, they may comprise one or more conventional additive (s) well known in the art, such as anti-hair loss agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, pearlescent agents, perfumes and preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compound (s) complement (s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions implemented according to the invention are not, or substantially unaffected by the proposed addition (s). The above additives may be generally present in an amount for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. The compositions (A) and / or (B) used according to the invention advantageously comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) chosen from lower C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol or glycerol, polyol ethers, C 5 -C 8 alkanes, C3-C4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions (A) and / or (B) used according to the invention are non-coloring, that is to say that they do not comprise direct coloring agents or dyeing agents. oxidation.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises the following steps: - applying the first composition (A) as defined above, on dry or wet hair, preferably wet and then - leave the composition on the hair, in with a residence time ranging from 1 to 10 minutes, preferably from 2 to 5 minutes at a temperature ranging from 20 to 230 ° C and preferably from 20 to 60 ° C, and more preferably from 20 to 30 ° C, then - rinse the hair with water - optionally spin and / or disentangle the hair, then - apply the second composition (B) as defined above, on wet hair, - leave the composition (B), respecting a exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 to 3 minutes, at a temperature of from 20 to 230 ° C and preferably from 20 to 60 ° C, and more preferably from 20 to 30 ° C, then - optionally, rinse the hair at the water. The hair can then be dried, for example by means of a helmet or a hair dryer, or left in the open air. It is also possible to carry out a step of tensioning the hair, for example by means of a brush, a comb, or tongs, at the moment when the hair is in contact with the first composition (A), or after rinsing it.

It is also possible to substitute this energizing step by a step of working the hair by hand or comb. However, and this is an advantage of the present invention, from the first implementation of the method according to the invention, including without tensioning the hair, there is a substantial reduction in the volume of the hair. When the hair is curled, there is also relaxation loops, and / or a better definition thereof. It is also noted that the unpleasant odors that emerge during the smoothing process, or that remain on the smoothed hair are reduced by the implementation of the method according to the invention. The method, object of the present invention can be performed once. According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention is repeated several times until the desired level of smoothing is obtained. According to a preferred embodiment, the process is repeated several times, either consecutively, or after a time varying from a few hours to a few days.

In addition, this method can advantageously be used for the detergency of hair, for smoothing thereof or for a combined effect of detergency and smoothing. In particular, the method according to the invention can be implemented before or after a conventional hair straightening treatment with or without fixation, in order to facilitate it, or to enhance its effectiveness ("booster" smoothing effect). The method according to the invention can also be implemented, so as to maintain the smoothing of hair which allows, for example, to space smoothing treatments generally performed with more aggressive compositions. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" for loop relaxation and / or smoothing keratin fibers, suitable for carrying out the method as defined above. The kit according to the invention comprises: - a first compartment containing a composition (A) as described above, and - a second compartment containing a composition (B) as described above. The compositions of this kit are packaged in separate compartments, which may be accompanied, optionally, appropriate application means, identical or different, such as, brushes, brushes, sponges.

The kit mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, such as, for example, the device described in patent FR 2 586 913. The following examples are given purely for illustrative purposes. the present invention.

EXAMPLES First compositions (A): Three shampoo compositions and three foaming care compositions, in accordance with the implementation of the invention, were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): a) Shampoo Composition 1 2 3 Alkyl (C8 / C16) polyglucoside (1,4) (1) 5 5 Cocoyl betaine (2) 5.4 5.4 5.4 Lauric acid carboxylic acid (4,5 0E) 3 3 3 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 4 4 4 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18) 2.1 2.1 2.1 Oxyethylene (60 0E) myristyl glycol ether Propylene glycol 2 2 2 Pure urea 5 5 Thioglycolic acid 1,4 - - Poly-methyl diallyl chloride 0.48 0.48 0.48 ammonium Sodium metabisulfite - 2 - Cysteine - - 3 Arginine - Qs Qs pH 7 pH 8 Ammonium bicarbonate Qs - - pH 8 Pentasodium pentetate 0.16 0.16 0.16 Water Qsp Qsp Qsp 100g 100g 100g (1) product PLANTACARE 818 UP marketed by the company BASF (2) prod MIRATAINE BB / FLA marketed by the company Rhodia b) Foaming treatment Composition 4 5 6 N-Cocoyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl, 7.5 7.5 7.5 sodium aminopropionate ") Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride (2) 3 , 16 3.16 3.16 3.5 3.5 3.5 hydroxypropyl pre-gelatinized cornstarch phosphate Cetyl stearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50/50) 7 7 7 Polydimethylsiloxane 1,1 1,1 1,1 aminoethylaminopropyl groups , with methoxy and / or hydroxy function and alpha-omega silanols ") Thioglycolic acid 2 - - Sodium metabisulfite - 2 - Cysteine - - 3 Arginine - Qs H7 - Mono ethanolamine - - Qs pH 8 Ammonium bicarbonate Qs - - pH Pentasodium pentetate 0.16 0.16 0.16 Water Qsp Qsp Qsp 100g 100g 100g (1) product REWOTERIC AM KSF 40 marketed by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT (2) produces VARISOFT BT 85 sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT (3) product XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION marketed by the company Dow Corning Second compositions (B): Two Neutralizing compositions (B) according to the practice of the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): Composition 7 8 Diethylene triamine acid 0.06 - pentacetic tetra-sodium phosphate 0.02 - disodium tin hexahydroxide 0.04 - H202 0.6 - ascorbic acid - 5 pH regulator Qs pH 2.5 - Perfume 0.2 - Water Qsp 100g Qsp 100g The compositions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 above were applied to curly and / or voluminous hair, as follows: 30 to 40 g of composition were applied to the damp hair, it is ie, previously wet and wrung out with a toweling towel.

Then the composition was carefully distributed by kneading the hair, so as to lather the composition. After a period of exposure ranging from 2 to 5 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water, then wiped with a towel and disentangled comb.

The compositions 7 or 8 were then applied to the hair, as follows: 30 to 40 g of composition were applied to the damp hair. Then the composition was carefully distributed by kneading the hair.

After a exposure time of 2 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water, then wiped with a towel, combed and dried with a hair dryer. The Applicant has found that the hair has a significant reduction in the volume of the hair. As for curly hair, she also found that hair curls were more relaxed, with better definition of curls. These effects can be obtained after a single application of the composition according to the invention, and without having to smooth the hair with a brush or with a clamp during drying The Applicant further finds that the smell of hair after treatment is greatly reduced compared to the treatments of the prior art. The above treatment process can be repeated several times consecutively on the same hair. There are then accented effects.

Claims (20)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method of relaxing loops and / or smoothing keratinous fibers, such as the hair comprising: a) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of a first composition (A); followed by, b) an application step on the keratinous fibers of a second composition (B); said composition (A) comprising: (i) one or more surfactant (s), (ii) one or more sulfur reducing agent (s), and (iii) one or more alkaline agent (s) (s); said composition (B) comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s) and / or one or more reductone (s). 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the or said surfactant (s) are selected from nonionic surfactants, anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic. 3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s), preferably chosen from: C8-C24 alkyls ) oxyalkylenated phenols; - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, and having one or two fatty chains; - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; esters of sucrose fatty acids, (C 8 -C 30) alkyls (poly) glucosides, (C 8 -C 30) alkenyl (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units; (C8-C30) alkyl esters (poly) glucosides; vegetable oils which are oxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; derivatives of N-alkyl (C 8 -C 30) glucamine and N-acyl (C 8 -C 30) methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, and mixtures thereof. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s), preferably chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl amide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulpho acetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and of polyglucoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether acids carboxylic acids, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) comprise one or more cationic surfactants (s), preferably chosen from: those corresponding to the general formula (I) R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of R8 to R11 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C 4) alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C 4) alkyl or (Ci-C 4) alkylsulphonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, and more particularly those of the following formula (II) R13 XN C1-12C1-12-N (R15) -CO-R12 (II) NN CC H2 H2 in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents an alkyl group C1-C4, R15 is hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates including alkyl groups and aryl preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively; the quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (III): ## STR5 ## in which R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) (R17a ) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, Rua, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates; the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 is C 2 -C 10 Wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 23 is chosen from: R 26 - the group - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: R 28 - the group the groups R29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C17 C6 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably chosen from: alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocoylbetaine sulfobetaines, C8-C20alkylamido (C2-C8alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20alkyl) amido (C6-C8alkyl) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof; the compounds of respective structures (V), (VI) and (VII): Ra-C (O) -NHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2C00-, M +, X- (V) Formula (V) wherein: Ra represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulphonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X- are absent; Ra'-C (O) -NHCH2-CH2-N (B) (B ') (VI) Formula (VI) wherein: B is -CH2-CH2-O-X'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2-C (O) OH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2-CH2-COOH, -CH2-CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3H or the group -CH2-CH (OH) -SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group; Ra '-NH-CH (Y ") - (CH2) .- C (O) -NH- (CH2) .- N (Rd) (Re) (VII) Formula (VII) wherein: Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ", -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z"; Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent an alkyl radical or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra" represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra "-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3; of these compounds. 7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first composition (A) comprises: - one or more surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), and - one or more surfactant (s) ) anionic (s). 8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said first composition (A) comprises: - one or more surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), and - one or more surfactant (s) ) cationic (s); the weight ratio between the total amount of the amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s) on the one hand and the total amount of the cationic surfactant (s) on the other hand preferably being greater than or equal to 1.2, and more preferably ranges from 1.2 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 8, and more preferably from 2 to 4. 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said surfactant (s) represent from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulfur-reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (-SH) groups, sulphites or sulphites. sulfite derivatives, and mixtures thereof. 11. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said agent (s) reducing (s) sulfur (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine and its salts, alkali metal sulfites, alkali metal bisulfites. 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said sulfur-reducing agent (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more alkaline agent (s) are chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines and their derivatives, c) ethylenediamines oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, d) inorganic or organic hydroxides, e) alkali metal silicates, f) amino acids, preferably basic, g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali metal. or alkaline earth, or ammonium, h) the compounds of formula (VIII) below: wherein R is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a grouping hydroxyl or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or C1-C6 aminoalkyl, i) and mixtures thereof. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent (s) alkaline (s) represent from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition (A). 15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises one or more oxidizing agent (s), preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide and urea peroxide. the alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, the peroxygenated salts, and more preferably the oxidizing agent being hydrogen peroxide. 16. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent (s) represent (s) from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition (B). 17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) comprises one or more reductone (s), preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (IX): R1- (HO) C = C (OH) -C- R 2 o II with R1 and R2, identical or different, each denoting a group containing at least one carbon atom and / or oxygen, R1 and R2 being able to form with the three carbon atoms of compound of formula (IX), preferably a 5- or 6-membered ring, the additional constituent atoms of which are constituted by carbon and / or oxygen atoms, the compound or compounds of formula (IX) being in acid form, or in the form of salts, especially in the form of alkali metal (IX) or alkaline earth metal salts, or in the form of esters, especially of C 8 to C 30 fatty acids. 18. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said reductone (s) are chosen from reductic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid or isoascorbic acid, and the salts of these compounds, in particular the salts of sodium or potassium, ascorbyl palmitate, and mixtures of these compounds. 19. Method according to any one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that the said reductone (s) represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition (B). 20. Multi-compartment device or kit for loop relaxation and / or smoothing of keratin fibers, comprising at least two compartments: a first compartment containing a composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14, and a second compartment containing a composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 15 to 19.