GB2068031A

GB2068031A - Hair Waving or Straightening Process that Simultaneously Conditions Hair and Hair Waving Composition for this Process

Info

Publication number: GB2068031A
Application number: GB8101959A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: Bristol Myers Co
Current assignee: Bristol Myers Co
Priority date: 1980-01-23
Filing date: 1981-01-22
Publication date: 1981-08-05
Also published as: DK29481A; CH646039A5; JPS56150009A; IE50814B1; FR2473883A1; GB2068031B; PH18975A; DE3100737A1; BE887219A; SE8100340L; BR8100183A; GR73514B; CA1138341A; AU6601981A; SE456475B; NL8100258A; IT8147616A0; IT1170644B; FR2473883B1; AU540290B2

Abstract

A process for waving or straightening hair that leaves the hair in conditioned form which comprises treating the hair with a novel hair waving composition containing a reducing agent and certain cationic polymers followed by treating said hair with a "neutralizing" composition containing an oxidizing agent and an anionic or amphoteric detergent.

Description

SPECIFICATION Hair Waving or Straightening Process that Sirnukaneously Conditions Hair and Hair Waving Composition for this Process This invention relates to compositions for waving or straightening hair, and especially human hair, and to processes for effecting the same. More particularly, it concerns compositions and methods of the aforesaid character which leaves the hair in a conditioned or improved manner.

Waving or straightening of hair with reducing agents such as mercaptans, sulfites or phosphines is almost invariably accompanied by deterioration of tactile properties of hair, increased tangling and difficult combing. This is true for all types of hair and particularly bothersome for hair which, prior to waving, had been exposed to bleaching, coloring or prolonged weathering. The conventional way to ameliorate this situation is to treat the waved hair with conditioning agents such as alkyl-dimethyl benzyl halides, emulsions of mineral oil, lanolin, etc. Conditioning agents of this type are usually incorporated in the neutralizing step of the waving or the straightening process. While these conditioning compounds improve the feel of hair and allow for easier combing, their beneficial effects are only transitory and are entirely lost when the hair is shampooed.

It has now been found that durable conditioning of hair during a hair waving or a hair straightening operation that is superior in its effects to conventional techniques can be obtained by first treating the hair with a reducing composition containing certain specific cationic polymers defined in more detail below followed by the treatment of the hair with a neutralizing formulation containing an anionic or an amphoteric surfactant. As a result of the sequence of the waving (or straightening) and neutralizing steps and a unique combination of ingredients, a conditioning complex, stable to repeated shampooings, is formed in the hair.

It is accordingly an object of this invention to provide a process for waving or straightening hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned Fashion which resists repeated shampooings.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide compositions which are useful in carrying out the aforesaid process.

Other and more detailed objects of this invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.

The cationic polymers that are useful for the purpose of the present invention are from a few relatively narrow classes. The first class are polymers of the so-called Onamer type which are polyldimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-a,-bis(triethanol ammonium chlorides) i.e. polymers of dim ethyl butenyl chloride terminated with quaternized ethanolamine. These may be described by the formula:

and will have a molecular weight up to about 20,000. For the most part, the molecular weight of these polymers will be in the range of from about 800 to about 5000 and preferably in the range of from about 1000 to 3000.By way of illustrating polymers of this type that may be useful for the present purposes, the following may be mentioned: Onamer M: This is a commercial product that corresponds to formula I above. It has a molecular weight that ranges over 1000 to 3000 with an average molecular weight of about 2000.

Another class of cationic polymers that may be employed in the present invention are polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylamine. These can be described by the generalized formula:

where R,, R2 and R3 are either the same or different radicals and represent alkyl group having up to 20 carbon atoms and X- is an anion such as halide (e.g. iodide or chloride) sulfate or carboxylate. These ordinarily will have a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000. By way of example, mention may be made of trimethyl polyvinyl ammonium sulfate which may be described by the formula:

Average M.W. about 50,000 The third class of useful cationic materials are polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylpyridine.These are described by the general formula:

Where R is an alkyl radical of C1-C20 and the X- is an anion such as a halide, sulfate or carboxylate.

These also will have a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000.

As an example of the cationic polymer of this group, the following may be mentioned:

polyvinyl methyl pyridinium iodide Average M.W. 50,000 As mentioned above, the particular cationic polymers described will be contained in the waving lotion employed in the present invention. The quantity of cationic polymer that will be present in these waving lotions may vary somewhat depending on the results that are desired. Ordinarily, this will constitute between about .2% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the waving lotion with the optimal range being between about 1% to about 5% by weight of the waving lotion.

In addition to the cationic polymer, the waving lotion employed in this invention may also contain other conventional ingredients commonly employed in such waving lotion. Thus, the vehicle for the lotion will be an aqueous vehicle which will have incorporated therein one or more reducing agents. A variety of reducing agents are known in the prior art which are useful in waving or straightening hair.

By way of example, we might mention: thioglycollic acid, cysteine, thiolactic acid, sodium-, potassium-, and ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, tris(hydroxyethyl phosphine). In the preferred form of this invention, the reducing agents that will be employed are thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts e.g.

sodium salts of sulfurous acid (e.g. sulfites and bisulfites).

The quantity of reducing agent contained in the waving lotion will also vary somewhat depending on the agent selected and the results desired. Usually, however, the waving lotion will contain from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of reducing agent based on the total weight of the waving lotion.

Optimai results are obtained when the reducing agent comprises from about 2% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the lotion.

In addition, the waving lotion may also contain fragrances, alkalizing agents and other conventional waving lotion ingredients. Moreover, it will also generally have a pH in the range of from about 5 to about 10.

The second essential component of the present conditioning system are amphoteric or anionic detergents which will ordinarily constitute part of the neutralizing lotion. There are a number of amphoteric detergents that are suitable for use in the present invention. However, two classes of detergents have been found to be especially effective. The first class can be defined by the formula:

in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case in which R represents coconut fatty radicals. A material of this character is sold under the trade name Miranol C2MSF and is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1 973) under the name Amphoteric-2.

A second class of amphoteric detergents that is particularly effective for the purposes of the present invention can be defined by the formula: R-NH-CH2-CH2-COOH wherein R is a long chain fatty alkyl group having from 10 to 1 8 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is marketed under the trade name Deriphat 1 70C in which the R in the formula is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) as Lauraminopropionic Acid.

All anionic detergents tested have been found useful in this invention; thus, salts of alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, sulfonated and sulfated alkyl ethers as well as long chain carboxylic acid (where the chain length is at least C1O) exhibit formation of conditioning complexes. By way of specifically illustrating the anionic detergents that are useful herein, the following may be mentioned: sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether (laureth) sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate, etc.

The quantity of amphoteric or anionic detergent which will be obtained in the neutralizing lotion of this invention will vary somewhat again depending on the economics and the results sought.

However, usually this will be in the range of from about 0.2 to about 50% by weight and ideally, in the range of from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion.

The neutralizing lotion'may also contain other ingredients usually employed in-such neutralizing lotions that are utilized in hair waving or hair straightening procedures. Again, the vehicle will ordinarily be an aqueous vehicle which will contain an oxidizing agent that will serve to "neutralize" the action of the reducing agent contained in the reducing agent contained in the waving lotion after the latter has been applied to the head. A number of oxidizing agents are known to those skilled in this art which will accomplish this purpose. These include hydrogen peroxide, sodium- and potassium- bromates, sodium perborate, etc.

The quantity of oxidizing agent that will be contained in the neutralizing lotion may also vary somewhat; again, depending on the agent selected and the results desired. For the most part, this will comprise between about 0.2% to about 20% by weight of the neutralizing lotion based on the total weight of said neutralizing lotion. In a preferred form of the invention, the oxidizing agent will constitute about 1% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the neutralizing lotion.

In addition to the above, among the other ingredients that may be contained in the neutralizing lotion, mention may be made of such materials as organic and inorganic acids (e.g. phosphoric, citric acid, etc.). The pH of the neutralizing lotion will usually be in the range of from about 2 to about 9.

The following specific Examples are intended to illustrate more fully the nature of the present invention without limiting its scope.

Example 1 Waving Lotion-A hair waving lotion was prepared having the following composition: % by Wt.

Ammonium thioylycollate 7.0 Monoethanolamine 3.5 Fragrance 0.1 *ONAMER M 3.0 Water to 100.0 *ONAMER M: PolyXdimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-,ct)-bis(triethanol ammonium chloride) Av. M.W. about 2000 given by manufacturer, 30% aqueous solution.

Neutralizing Lotion-This was prepared having the following composition: % by Wt Ammonium lauryl sulfate 3.0 Hydrogen peroxide 1.4 Phosphoric acid 0.1 Water to 100.0 In addition to the above samples, both the waving lotion and the neutralizer have been prepared without the cationio polymer and the anionic detergent respectively.

Four sets of intact caucasian hair tresses were waved under identical conditions of time and temperature followed by rinsing and neutralization. The tresses were wound on 1/2 inch rods and two of them saturated with the waving lotion containing ONAMER M while the other two were saturated with the waving lotion without the ONAMER M. All tresses were then wrapped in Saran Wrap and placed for 20 minutes in an oven kept at 350C. After this time, the waving lotion was rinsed off and the tresses, while still on rods, were treated for 5 minutes with the neutralizing solutions. The neutralizing solution containing ammonium lauryl sulfate was applied to two waved tresses (one waved with and one without the ONAMER M) while the other two were exposed to the neutralizer in which ammonium lauryl sulfate was absent.

It was found that only in the case of the waved hair tress where the waving solution employed contained polymer and the neutralizer contained the anionic detergent, was it soft, lustrous and conditions. The effect was found to be resistant to at least four shampoos.

In Example 2 below, the embodiments of the invention are directly compared with the products available now on the market. In one of the products (Product I) a cationic polymer i.e. a high molecular weight polydimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride is present in the waving solution and cationic conditioner is used in the neutralizing step. The other product, Product II, contains no polymer in the waving lotion but claims a conditioner in the neutralizing solution.

Example 2 The following waving composition was prepared: % by Wt.

Ammonium sulfite 3.0 Sodium sulfite 2.0 ONAMER M 5.0 Cysteine HCI 0.2 Water to 100.0 The neutralizing lotion has the following composition: % by Wt.

Sodium bromate 6.0 *Ammonium laureth sulfate 6.6 Preservative 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Water to 100.0 *CTFA name The procedures utilized for each product are briefly described as follows: Product I Procedure: Clean (shampooed), damp tresses are wound on rods, using end papers. The activator and stabilizer of Product I are poured into the shaping lotion. After shaking well for 30 seconds, the lotion is applied to the pre-wrapped tresses until the hair is well saturated. The tresses are then placed in a 350 oven for 35 minutes. Tresses are then rinsed under tap water for 2 minutes. After the rinse, hair is removed from the rods and treated with Product I conditioner (optional step), working it into the hair well. After 1 minute, the hair is thoroughly rinsed.

Productll Procedure: Waving lotion applied to clean (shampooed), damp tresses, and wound on rods, using end papers. Hair resaturated with lotion, wrapped in plastic wrap and placed in 350 oven for 1 hour. Tress then rinsed under tap water for 3 minutes. Excess water blotted with paper towel and tress saturated with neutralizer. After 10 minutes at 350, tress removed from rod, neutralizer worked through the hair, and hair then rinsed thoroughly. Hair combed and hung to air dry.

Procedure for Present Invention: The procedure was as that described above in connection with Product II up to the water rinse for 2 minutes after 1 hour treatment. After rinse, hair was removed from rod and treated with 1 cc. of bromate neutralizer, the latter was worked into a lather and left on hair for 5 minutes, followed by thorough rinsing.

Each of the above procedures was perfonned on six tresses of both virgin and three-times dyed tresses.

The waved tresses were evaluated for wG'L and dry combability utilizing the technique for these measurements as described by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 379, 1976). The test essentially involves passing of a hair tress through a comb attached to a strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording device. Work is expended to accomplish the passage of the hair tress through the comb, and this work, read off the integrator, is the objective measure of combing ease/difficulty.

The greater the values, the harder it is to comb the hair and thus the less conditioned the hair is. The data for both virgin and dyed hair tresses are given in Table I.

Table I Wet and Dry Combability of Waved Hair Work of Combing (gem) Virgin Hair Dyed Hair Product Wet Dry Wet Dry Control (no waving) 337 277 2567 3606 Product I 363 225 1979 2392 Product Il 682 273 3060 1392 Present Invention 142 217 260 361 There was no significant change in conditioning ranking of these products after as many as six repeated applications.

Although the invention has been described with reference to specific forms thereof, it will be understood that many changes and modifications may be made without departing from the scope of this invention.

Claims

1. A process for waving or straightening hair which leaves the hair in a conditioned form which conditioning persists through repeated shampooings which comprises: treating said hair with an aqueous waving composition containing an effective amount of a reducing agent and a cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of: i. poly(dimethyi butenyl ammonium chloride)-a,o-bis(triethanol ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to 5000; ii. polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylamine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000; and iii. polymers and copolyrners of quaternized polyvinyl pyridine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000; and then treating said hair with an aqueous neutralizing composition containing: iv. an oxidizing agent; and v. an anionic or amphoteric detergent.

2. A process according to Claim 1 in which the waving composition contains, based on the weight of said waving composition, from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of said reducing agent and from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight of said cationic polymer, and said neutralizing composition contains, based on the weight of said neutralizing composition, from about 0.2% to about 20% by weight of oxidizing agent and from about 0.2% to about 50% by weight of said detergent.

3. A process according to Claim 2 in which: (a) said reducing agent is selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and alkali metal salts of sulfurous acid; (b) said cationic polymer is poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-,e.)-bis(triethanol ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of from about 1000 to about 3000; (c) said oxidizing agent is sodium or potassium bromate; and (d) said detergent is sodium or ammonium laureth sulfate.

4. An aqueous hair waving composition useful in the waving or straightening of hair containing, based on the weight of the waving composition: (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight of a reducing agent; and (b) from about 0.2% to about 10% by weight of a cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of: i. poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-a,co-bis(triethanol ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to 5000; ii. polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylamine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000; and iii. polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylpyridine having a molecular weight in the range of from about 5000 to about 100,000.

5. A composition according to Claim 4 wherein said cationic polymer is poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-a,w-bis(triethanol ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of from about 800 to 5000.

6. A composition according to Claim 5 in which said cationic polymer has a molecular weight in the range of from about 1000 to about 3000.

7. A process according to Claim 1 substantially as described in either of the foregoing Examples.

8. A composition according to Claim 4 substantially as described in either of the foregoing Examples.