FR2472382A1 - Hair perming by redn. and oxidn. - in presence of cationic polymer and anionic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Permanent deformation (waving or straightening) of hair is effected by (a) reducing the keratin disulphide linkages by treating with a reducing compsn. contg. a cationic polymer (I), and (b) reforming the linkages by treating with an oxidising compsn. in the presence of an anionic surfactant (II). Step (a) is pref. effected for 5-60 (esp. 5-30) min. using a reducing compsn. contg. 0.2-5 wt.% of (I) and having a pH of 6.5-10. Suitable (I) include 'Merquat 100', 'Merquat 550', 'Onamer M' and Mirapol A15'. Step (b) can be effected in a single stage using an oxidising compsn. contg. 0.5-30 wt.% of (II), or in 2 stages (first with the oxidising compsn. and then with a (II)-contg. compsn.). Pref. (II) are lauryl sulphates, di- or triethoxylated lauryl sulphates, alpha- olefin sulphonates, alkyl sarcosinates and paraffin sulphonates. Use of (I) and (II) improves the appearance, feel and combability of the treated hair.

Description

 The subject of the present invention is an improvement to the process for permanent deformation of the hair as well as a composition intended for the implementation of this process.

 It is known that the conventional technique for carrying out permanent deformation of the hair consists, firstly, in opening the disulphide bonds of the keratin using a composition containing a reducing agent (reduction step), then, after having preferably rinsed the hair, to reconstitute in a second time said connections by applying, to the hair under tension, an oxidizing composition, (oxidation step, also called fixing) so as to give the hair the shape desired.

 The reducing and oxidizing compositions are well known and described in most of the cosmetology works, in particular in the book by E. SIDI and C. ZVIAK, Problèmes Capillaires Paris, 1966 (Gauthier Villard).

 The compositions for the first stage of a perming operation contain, in addition to the reducing agent, adjuvants making it possible to present them in the form of lotions, creams, gels or powders to be diluted in a liquid support.

 In the first stage compositions the reducing agent is preferably a mercaptan and in the second stage compositions the oxidizing agent is preferably oxygenated water or an alkali bromate.

 It is well known that the processes which lead to permanent deformation of the hair have the effect of weakening the hair and damaging its general appearance.

 The present invention constitutes an improvement to the process for permanent deformation of the hair as recalled above, making it possible to impart more softness to the touch, better ease of disentangling the hair and an improvement in their aesthetic appearance.

 The present invention more specifically relates to a process for permanent deformation of the hair, consisting firstly in reducing the bisulphide bonds of keratin by application of a reducing composition and then in a second step in reforming said bonds by application of a oxidizing composition, this process being essentially characterized in that the reduction step is carried out using a reducing composition containing a cationic polymer and that the fixing step is carried out in the presence of an anionic surfactant.

 In the process according to the invention, it is important that the cationic polymer is stable in an alkaline medium, but it can be envisaged to condition it separately. Furthermore, the anionic surfactant must be stable in an oxidizing medium; in some cases it is preferable to prepare the oxidizing composition at the time of use.

 In the process according to the invention as defined above, the reducing composition is applied to wet hair previously wound on rollers 4 to 20 mm in diameter or the composition is applied as it is being wound up, it is left to act for a period of 5 to 30 minutes, it is rinsed thoroughly after which the oxidizing composition containing the anionic surfactant is applied to the coiled hair.

 After having allowed the said composition to act for a time of between 2 and 10 minutes, the rollers are removed and the hair is rinsed thoroughly and then dried.

 According to a variant of the method according to the invention, the so-called oxidation or fixing step can be carried out in two stages, that is to say by first applying an oxidizing composition and then by applying to the hair coiled or not with a composition containing the anionic surfactant.

 In fact, it has been found that excellent results can also be obtained by breaking down the second step.

 According to the process of the invention, the reducing composition is of the same type as those commonly used in perming operations, that is to say it preferably consists of a solution containing at least one reducing agent such as for example a mercaptan, an alkali or ammonium sulfite or bi-sulfite, said composition having a pH generally between 6.5 and 10.

 Preferably the reducing agent is present in the composition at a concentration of 2 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition. This reducing agent can be, for example, thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid or a mixture of these acids; in this case the concentration of these reducing agents is preferably between 2 and 11% by weight.

 The reducing agent can also be an alkali or ammonium sulfite or bi-sulfite; in this case the concentration is preferably between 2 and 15%. The reducing agent can also be glycerol monothioglycolate at a concentration of between 5 and 25% by weight.

 The pH of the reducing compositions is generally obtained using alkaline agents such as for example ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, a carbonate or an alkali or ammonium bicarbonate.

 The reducing compositions for implementing the process according to the invention can also be of the exothermic type, that is to say causing a certain heating during application to the hair which brings a certain pleasure to the person who is undergoing the first time of the perm.

 The cationic polymer is generally present in the reducing compositions at a concentration of between 0.2 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

dans lesquelles
k est O ou 1 si k = O Q = 1
si k = 1 Q = O
p = O ou 1
R2et R3, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle,
R1 représente un radical pris dans le groupe constitué par
(i) un radical alkyle ayant de 1 à 22 atomes de carbone,
(ii) un radical hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone,
(iii) un radical amidoalkyle ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone,
(iv) - CH2 - COOR6, R6 représentant un radical alkyle ayant de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone,

Among the cationic polymers used according to the invention are preferably those chosen from
A) water-soluble cyclopolymers having a molecular weight of 2,000 to 3,000,000, comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (la) or (Ib)

in which
k is O or 1 if k = OQ = 1
if k = 1 Q = O
p = O or 1
R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,
R1 represents a radical taken from the group consisting of
(i) an alkyl radical having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms,
(ii) a hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
(iii) an amidoalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
(iv) - CH2 - COOR6, R6 representing an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms,

n étant 1 ou 2,

(vii) - (CH2) n - CN, n being equal to 1 or 2,
(viii) - COR7, R7 representing an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, a - CCl3 radical, a -CH2Cl radical, a phenyl radical or a radical of formula

n being 1 or 2,

R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a radical taken from the group consisting of
(a) - (CH2) m - CH3, m being O to 21 inclusive
(b) a hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
(c) an amidoalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
(d) - (CH2) q - OC2H5, q being 1 or 2
(e) - CH2COOR6, R6 having the same meaning as above and

(9) - (CH2)n - CN, n étant égal à 1 ou 2 (10) - COR7, R7 ayant la même signification que ci-dessus

(13) - CH2 - CH = CH2 (14) - CH2 - CH2 - O - CH2 = CH2 et

R5 represents a radical taken from the group consisting of
(1) - (CH2) m - CH3, m having the same meaning as above
(2) a hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms
(3) an amidoalkyl radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms
(4) - (CH2) q - OC2H5, q being 1 or 2
(5) - CH2 - CoOR6, R6 having the same meaning as ci

(9) - (CH2) n - CN, n being equal to 1 or 2 (10) - COR7, R7 having the same meaning as above

(13) - CH2 - CH = CH2 (14) - CH2 - CH2 - O - CH2 = CH2 and

r ', r''andr''', identical or different representing an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, where R4 and R5 can represent, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyls or morpholinyls,
A and A ', identical or different, represent an anion such as chloride, bromide, iodide, methylsulfate, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

and Ac, when p = 1, represents a mineral or organic acid and preferably an acid taken from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, nitric acid, acetic acid, butyric acid and lactic acid as well as the copolymers comprising units of formula (Ia) or (Ib) and, preferably, derivatives of acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, N-vinyl lactams, vinyl esters, d acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, allyl esters, vinyl ethers and α-olefins.

 Among the quaternary ammonium polymers of the type defined above, those which are more particularly preferred are the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride sold under the name MERQUAT 100 having a molecular weight of less than 100,000 and the copolymer of diallyldimethyl ammonium dichloride. and acrylamide having a molecular weight greater than 500,000 sold under the name MERQUAT 550 by the company MERCK.

 These polymers are described in French patent no. 2,080,759 and its certificate of addition no. 2,190,406, as well as in French patents no. 77,15088 and no. 78,27074 and, the US patent no. 3,862,091.

dans laquelle R1 et R2, R3 et R4, égaux ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques contenant au maximum 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux hydroxyaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R1 et R2 et R3 et R4, ensemble ou séparément constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont attachés, des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote, ou bien R1, R2, R3 et R4 représentent un groupement pris dans le groupe constitué par

and B) the quaternary polyammoniums of formula

in which R1 and R2, R3 and R4, equal or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing at most 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyaliphatic radicals, or else R1 and R2 and R3 and R4, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a group taken from the group consisting of

wherein
R'3 represents a hydrogen or a lower alkyl,
R'4 represents -CN,
R'5 represents a lower alkyl, R'6 represents a hydrogen or a lower alkyl, R'7 represents alkyl and D represents a quaternary ammonium group
A and B may represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which may contain, intercalated in the main chain, 'one or more groups of formula

avec X# représentant un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique, t étant 2 ou 3, R'8 représentant un hydrogène ou un alcoyle inférieur, R'g représentant un alcoyle inférieur, ou bien
A et R1 et R3 forment avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont attachés, un cycle pipérazine; en outre si A représente un radical alcoylène ou hydroxyalcoylène, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B peut également représenter un groupement - (CH2)n' CO - D - OC - (CH2)n,- dans lequel n' représente un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 10 et D représente a) un reste de glycol de formule - O - Z - O-ou Z représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupement répon- dant aux formules

dans lesquels : x et y représentent un nombre entier de 1 à 4 correspondant à un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 correspondant à un degré de polymérisation moyen b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de la pipérazine de formule :

c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule
- NH - Y - NH où Y représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié ou le radical bivalent -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH 2-CH2-, d) un groupement uréylène de formule - NH - CO - NH est un anion tel que chlorure ou bromure, et n est tel que la masse moléculaire soit comprise entre 1.000 et 100.000.(2) - (CH2) t - Y - (CH2) t
with Y representing O, S, SO, SO2, or a radical of formula

with X # representing an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, t being 2 or 3, R'8 representing a hydrogen or a lower alkyl, R'g representing a lower alkyl, or else
A and R1 and R3 form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition if A represents an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B can also represent a group - (CH2) n 'CO - D - OC - (CH2) n, - in which n' represents a number integer between 1 and 10 and D represents a) a glycol residue of formula - O - Z - O - or Z represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to the formulas

in which: x and y represent an integer from 1 to 4 corresponding to a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 corresponding to an average degree of polymerization b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such that a piperazine derivative of formula:

c) a residue of bis-primary diamine of formula
- NH - Y - NH where Y represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or the bivalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH 2-CH2-, d) a ureylene group of formula - NH - CO - NH is an anion such that chloride or bromide, and n is such that the molecular mass is between 1,000 and 100,000.

 Polymers of this type are described, in particular, in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, French applications 76 20261 and 2,336,434 and United States patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 , 2.454.547, 3.206.462, 2.261.002, 2.271.378, incorporated by reference.

 Other polymers of this type are described in US Patents 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026. 945 and 4,027,020 incorporated in the present description by reference.

As particularly preferred polymers corresponding to the above definition, those known under the following names can be used - "ONAMER M" / poly (dimethyl butenylammonium chloride) -t, -Bis (triethanolammoniumt7 chloride sold by the company ONYX Chemical Co - "MIRAPOL A 15" sold by the Miranol Company and having the following formula

 In addition to the reducing agent and the cationic copolymer, the reducing compositions can also contain various ingredients such as, for example, softening agents and in particular quaternary ammoniums derived from lanolin, protein hydrolysates, waxes, opacifying agents, perfumes. , dyes, nonionic or cationic surfactants or treating agents.

 The oxidation compositions of the process according to the invention contain, as oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide, an alkaline bro mate or a persalt or a mixture of alkaline bromate and a parsley.

 The concentration of hydrogen peroxide can vary from 3 to 10 volumes, the concentration of alkaline bromate from 2 to 12% and that of parsley from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

 According to the invention when the oxidizing composition contains the anionic surfactant, it is generally present at a concentration of between 0.5 and 30% and preferably between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 In order to avoid any phenomenon of instability of the anionic surfactant in an oxidizing medium, the oxidizing compositions can be prepared at the time of use.

 Among the various anionic surfactants which can be used in the oxidizing compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the alkali salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts or the amino alcohol salts of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamides sulfates and ether sulfates, alcoylarylpolyéthersulfates, monoglyceride sulphates, - alkylsulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, - a-olefin sulfonates, - the alkyl sulphosuccinates, alcoyléthersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, - the alcoylsulfosuccinamates, - the alcoysulfoacétates, the alcoylpolyglycérol carboxylates, - alkylphosphates, alkyl etherphosphates, - alkylsarcosinates, .alcoylpolypeptidates, alkylamidopolypeptidates, alkylisethionates, alkylltaurates.

 The alkyl radical of all these compounds is a linear chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

- fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acid, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil, carboxylic acids of polyglycolic ethers corresponding to the formula
Alk - (OCH2 CH2) n 2 OCH2 - CO2H where the substituent Alk corresponds to a linear chain having 12 to 18 carbon atoms and where n is an integer between 5 and 15.

Among the anionic surfactants, those which are more particularly preferred are
- Sodium, ammonium or mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine lauryl sulfates, sodium lauryl ether sulfates, mono-, di- or triethanolamine, oxyethylenated with 2 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide, a-olefins sulfonates, alkylsarcosinates, and paraffins sulfonates.

 The oxidizing compositions can also contain various ingredients and in particular stabilizing agents, preserving agents, softening agents, opacifying agents, perfumes, dyes, sequestering agents, acidifying or basifying agents.

 When the fixing step is carried out in two stages, that is to say by first applying an oxidizing composition and then, after optional rinsing, of a composition containing the anionic surfactant, the respective concentrations of oxidizing agent and anionic surfactant are the same as those indicated above for the compositions using a mixture of oxidizing agent and anionic surfactant.

 However, in the solutions of anionic surfactants, various ingredients can be used such as, for example, other surfactants or polymers.

 The oxidizing compositions for implementing the process according to the invention can also be, like the reducing compositions, of the exothermic type, that is to say developing during application a certain amount of heat making it possible on the one hand to accelerate the reconstitution of the disulfide bonds and on the other hand to bring an approval for the person who undergoes the permanent deformation.

 Such compositions for performing the second stage of a perm operation are described in particular in French patent No. 2,179,025.

 We will now give by way of illustration and without any limiting character several examples of the process for permanent deformation of the hair according to the invention.

1 R2, R3, R4 représentant -CH3 X représentant C1 (100 % matière active) 3 g - Alcool gras polyoxyéthyléné à l'aide de 20 Moles d'oxyde
d'éthylène 1 1 g - Parfum 0,5 g - Eau q.s.p........................................................ 100 ml
On enroule alors les cheveux sur des rouleaux ayant un diamètre variant de 4 mm à 10 mm puis on laisse agir la composition pendant un temps de 10 à 15 minutes.Example 1: A permanent deformation of the hair is carried out by applying the following reducing composition to the whole of the hair - Thioglycolic acid 8 g - Ammonia qs ................. ............................... pH 7 - Ammonium bicarbonate 6.5 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Cationic polymer consisting of units of Formula

1 R2, R3, R4 representing -CH3 X representing C1 (100% active material) 3 g - Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol using 20 Moles of oxide
ethylene 1 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs ................................... .................... 100 ml
The hair is then wound on rollers having a diameter varying from 4 mm to 10 mm and then the composition is left to act for a time of 10 to 15 minutes.

After rinsing, the following oxidizing composition is then applied to the reduced hair - Oxygenated water ................................. .................... 8 volumes - Phenacetin 0.2 g - Stabilizer 0.2 g - Phosphoric acid qs ............ .............................. pH 4 - Alkyl (C12 - C18) ammonium ethersulfate with 2 Moles of oxide d ethylene, 2 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Water qs ................................... .................... 100 ml
The oxidizing composition is left to act for 5 minutes, then the hair is rinsed with water and the rollers are then removed.

 The hair is soft to the touch and detangles easily.

oo
o
According to the same procedure as that described in Example 1 above, permanent deformations were also carried out using the following reducing and oxidizing compositions
Example 2: a) Reducing composition.

- Thioglycolic acid 6 g - Ammonia qs .......................................... pH 9.5 - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Cationic polymer as defined in Example 1 * 2 g - Protein hydrolyzate 1 g - Perfume 0, 5 g - Water qs .......... ....................................... 100 ml
b) Oxidizing composition: an oxidizing composition is prepared at the time of use by mixing 100 ml of part A and 10 ml of part B below
Part A - Hydrogen peroxide ............................................. .. 9 volumes - Phenacetin 0.1 g - Citric acid ..................................... ........ 0.2 g - Alkyl phenol polyoxyethylenated at 9 Moles
ethylene oxide 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs ................................. ................ 100 ml
Part B - Lauryl ammonium sulfate at 30% ........................... 40 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Alkalizing agent qs ...................................... pH 7.5 - Preservative, 0.2 g - Water qs .............................................. ... 100 ml
Part B above can be replaced by Part
B 'next - Lauryl sodium ethersulfate with 2 Moles of oxide
ethylene (25%) .......................................... 50 g - sequestering agent o 0.2 g - alkalizing agent qs ..................................... pH 7.5 - Preservative ........................................ 0.2 g - Water qs .............................................. .. 100 ml
Example 3 a) Reducing composition - Thioglycolic acid ..................................... 5 g - Bicarbonate 8.5 g ammonium - 0.2 g sequestering agent - Cationic polymer consisting of units of formula

R1, R2, R3 and R4 = CH3
t = 3
X = Cl
n-6 MIRAPOL A 15 (100% active ingredient) 2 g - Polyoxyethylene oleic alcohol with 20 Moles of oxide
ethylene 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs .................................... ............. 100 ml b) Oxidizing composition - Sodium bromate ........................... ............... 10 g - Lauryl ether ammonium sulfate a 2 Moles
ethylene oxide (95%) .................................... 2.5 g - Preservative agent 0.1 g - Alkalizing agent qs ....................................... pH 7.5 - Water qs ........................................... ....... 100 ml
The above oxidizing composition can be replaced by the following composition - Potassium bromate 9 g - Sodium lauryl sulfate (95%) ...................... ...... 2 g - Preservative 0.1 g - Alkalizing agent qs ............................... ....... pH 7.5 - Water qs 100 ml
Example 4 a) Reducing Composition - Ammonium Thiolactate * 5 g - Monoethanolamine 1.2 g - Sequestering Agent 0.2 g - Cationic Polymer consisting of
formula

known by the trade name of
MERQUAT 100 (100% active ingredient) .................... 2 g - Polyoxyethylene oleic alcohol with 20 Moles of oxide
ethylene 1 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs ................................... .............. 100 ml b) Oxidizing composition: an oxidizing composition is prepared at the time of use by mixing 100 ml of the
Part A and the following 10 ml of Part B
Part A - Hydrogen peroxide ............................................. .. 9 volumes - Phenacetin 0.1 g - Citric acid ..................................... ........ 0.2 g - Nonyl phenol polyoxyethylenated to 9 Moles of ethylene oxide * 1 g - Perfume .................... .................................... 0.5 g - Water qs ....... ............................................. 100 ml
Part B - Lauryl ether ammonium sulfate 2 Moles
ethylene oxide (95%) ...................................... 15 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Alkalizing agent qs ....................................... .. pH 7.5 - Preservative ......................................... ... 0.2 g - Water qs ........................................ ............ 100 ml
Example 5 a) Reducing Composition - Ammonium Sulfite ....................................... .... 4 4 g - Ammonium bi-sulfite .................................... ... 3.3 g - Monoethanolamine ......................................... ... 3.9 g - Cationic polymer consisting of units of formula

(100% active ingredient) ....................................... 2 g - Nonyl phenol polyoxyethylenated using 9
Moles of ethylene oxide 0.5 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs .............................. ................... 100 ml b) Oxidizing composition: an oxidizing composition is prepared at the time of use by mixing 100 ml of the
Part A and the following 10 ml of Part B
Part A - Hydrogen peroxide ............................................. .. 9 volumes - Phenacetin 0.1 g - Citric acid ..................................... ........ 0.2 g - Nonyl phenol polyoxyethylenated to 9 Moles of oxide
ethylene 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs .................................... ............. 100 ml
Part B - Sodium lauryl sulfate (95%) 20 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Alkalizing agent qs .......................... ............ pH 7.5 - Preservative 0.2 g - Water qs ........................ ......................... 100 ml
Part B above can be replaced by the following part B ': - Lauryl sulphate of triethanolamine (40%) 20 g - Sequestering agent ................... ....................... 0.2 g - Alkalizing agent qs ................... ................... pH 7.5 - Preservative agent 0.2 g - Water qs * 100 ml
Example 6 a) Reducing Composition: a reducing composition is obtained by mixing the following parts A and B at the time of use.
Part A - Glycerol monothioglycolate (100 8} .................... 20 g - Glycerin 10 g
Part B - Monoethanolamine qs ........................................ pH 7
(after mixing parts A and B) - Cationic polymer as defined in
Example 1 ..................................... 2 g - Non-ionic surfactant (polyethoxy ether alcohols
fatty C12 - C14 to 11 Moles of ethylene oxide). 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs ....................................... .............. 100 ml b) Oxidizing composition - Hydrogen peroxide ........................... ......................... 8 volumes - Phenacetin ..................... ................................ 0.2 g - Stabilizing agent 0.2 g - Phosphoric acid qs ... ..................................... pH 4 - Alkoyl (C12 - C18) ether sulphate ammonium to
2 Moles of ethylene oxide 2 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g - Water qs .............................. ....................... 100 ml
Example 7
Permanent deformation of the hair is carried out by applying a reducing composition to the whole of the hair, resulting from the mixture of the following ingredients - Thioglycolic acid 8 g - Ammonic qs ................ ............................... pH 7 - Ammonium bicarbonate 6.5 g - Sequestering agent 0.2 g Polymer cationic as defined
in Example 1 ................................ 3 g - Polyoxyethylenated oleic alcohol at 20 Moles
ethylene oxide 1 g - Perfume 0.5 g - Water qs ................................. .................... 100 ml
The hair is then rolled up on rollers having a diameter of between 7 and 15 mm and the composition is left to act for a period of approximately 5 to 15 minutes.

After rinsing, an oxidizing composition is then applied to the whole of the hair, resulting from the mixture of the following ingredients - Hydrogen peroxide ......................... ....................... 7 volumes - Phenacetin 0.2 g - Stabilizing agent 0.2 g - Phosphoric acid qs ........ ............................ pH 3 - Water qs ................. .................................. 100 ml
After having allowed this composition to act for a time of 5 to 10 minutes, 20 ml of a so-called revealing solution having the following composition is then applied to the hair - Lauryl ether ammonium sulfate 2 mol
ethylene oxide (95%) ..................................... 25 g - Preservative 0.2 g - Alkalizing agent qs ........................................ pH 7 - sequestering agent ............................................ 0 , 2 g - Water qs ............................................ ....... 100 ml
After allowing this revealing solution to act for a few minutes, the hair is then thoroughly rinsed and the rollers are removed.

 The hair is soft to the touch and detangles easily.

Example 8
Permanent deformation of the hair is carried out by applying an exothermic reducing composition to the whole of the hair, mixing 90 ml of part A and 20 ml of part B below
Part A - Thioglycolic acid ......................................... 12 g - Ammonia qs ............................................ pH 7 - Monoethanolamine. ...................................... 5 g - Sequestering agent ....... ......................... 0.2 g - Cationic polymer as defined
in example 1 ........................................... 2 g - Oxyethylenated oleic alcohol at 20 Moles
ethylene oxide ................................. 1 g - Perfume ....... ......................................... 0.5 g - Protein hydrolyzate. ............................... 1 g - Water qs .............. ................................... 100 ml
Part B - Hydrogen peroxide .................................... 15 volumes - Stabilizing agent .... ................................ 0.2 g - Phosphoric acid qs .......... .............................. pH 2,5 - Water qs ............. .......................................... 100 ml
The hair is then rolled up on curlers and the composition is left to act for a period of approximately 10 to 15 minutes.

After rinsing with water, an oxidizing composition is applied to the whole of the hair, resulting from the mixture of the following ingredients - Hydrogen peroxide ...................... ..................... 8 volumes - Stabilizing agent ........................ .......... 0.2 g - Paraffin sulfonate (C14 - C16) ............................ .. 2 g - Citric acid qs ......................................... pH 3 - Sequestering agent .................................. 0.2 g - Water qs ..... ........................................ 100 ml
After having left this composition to act for approximately 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water and the curlers are removed.

 The hair is soft to the touch and detangles easily.

Example 9
According to the same procedure as that described in Example 8, the first step of a perming operation is carried out using the same exothermic reducing composition.

On the other hand, after rinsing, an oxidizing composition, also exothermic, prepared at the time of use, was applied to the hair, mixing 100 g of part A and 20 g of part B below.
Part A - Hydrogen peroxide .......................................... it volumes - Stabilizing agent .............................. 0.2 g - Phosphoric acid qs .......... .......................... pH 4 - Lauryl ammonium sulfate ................ ....... 2 g - Sequestering agent g 0.2 g - Perfume ............................... ................... 0.5 g - Water qs ........................ ....................... 100 ml
Part B - Sodium sulphite ................................. 12 g - Water qs ...... ........................................... 100 g
After having left to act for a time of 5 to 10 minutes, the curlers are then removed and the hair is rinsed thoroughly. We obtain a permanent of excellent quality.

Claims (14)

 1. A method of permanent deformation of the hair consisting firstly in reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin by application of a reducing composition and then in a second step in reforming said bonds by application of an oxidizing composition, characterized in that the reduction step is carried out using a reducing composition containing a cationic polymer and that the fixing step is carried out in the presence of an anionic surfactant.  2. Method according to claim l, characterized in that said composition.réducteur is left to act for a time varying from 5 to 30 minutes.  3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the said oxidizing composition is left to act for a time varying from 2 to 10 minutes.  4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing step is carried out using an oxidizing composition containing the anionic surfactant.  5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fixing step is carried out in two stages, the first stage consisting in applying an oxidizing composition and the second stage in applying a composition containing the anionic surfactant.  6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cationic polymer is present in the reducing composition at a concentration of between 0.2 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.  7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the pH of the reducing composition is between 6.5 and 10.  8. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the oxidizing composition contains the anionic surfactant at a concentration of between 0.5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.  9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is preferably a sodium lauryl sulphate, of ammonium or of triethanolamine, a sodium lauryl ether sulphate, ammonium mono-, di- or triethanolamine oxyethylenated using 2 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide, an ocolefin sulfonate, an alkylsarcosinate or a paraffin sulfonate.  10. Packaging in two parts intended to be used successively for the implementation of the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the first part consists of a reducing composition containing a cationic polymer and that the second part consists of an oxidizing composition containing an anionic surfactant.  11. Packaging according to claim 10, charac terized by the fact that said first part is itself packaged in two parts, one being constituted by the reducing composition and the other by a composition containing the cationic polymer, said two parts being intended to be mixed at the time of use.  12. Packaging according to claim 10, charac terized by the fact that said second part is itself conditioned in two parts, one consisting of the oxidizing composition and the other by a composition containing the anionic surfactant , said two parts being intended to be mixed at the time of use or to be applied successively to the hair.  13. Packaging according to any one of claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the first part consisting of the reducing composition containing or not mixing the polymer also contains cosmetic ingredients, such as softening agents, hydrolysates of proteins, waxes, opacifying agents, perfumes, dyes, nonionic or cationic surfactants or treating agents.  14. Packaging according to any one of claims 10 and 12, characterized in that the second part consisting of the oxidizing composition containing or not mixing the anionic surfactant also contains cosmetic ingredients such as stabilizing agents , preservatives, softening agents, opacifying agents, perfumes, dyes, sequestering agents, acidifying agents or basifying agents.