FR2953713A1 - CAPILLARY, DETERGENT AND SMOOTHING COSMETIC COMPOSITION, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD USING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s), one or more anionic surfactant (s) chosen from those comprising at least one phosphate and sulphate function. or sulfonate, one or more sulfur reducing agent (s), and one or more alkaline agent (s). The present invention also relates to a method for relaxing the loops and / or reducing the volume of the hair, implementing such a composition.

Description

B09-3970EN OA 09530 FB

Société Anonyme known as L'OREAL

Hair, detergent and smoothing cosmetic composition, and cosmetic treatment method using said composition Invention of: Myriam MELLUL Laurence PAUL

The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of hair, intended for the detergency and the smoothing thereof, comprising, in a cosmetically medium, a cosmetic hair treatment composition using said composition. acceptable, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one sulfur reducing agent, and at least one alkaline agent. The present invention also relates to cosmetic hair treatment methods using such a composition, as well as the uses of this composition for detergency and / or hair straightening.

To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair such as a smoothing of the hair, a straightening or a relaxation of the loops, the technique most employed consists, in a first time, to realize the opening of the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin ( keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a sulfur reducing agent (reduction step) then, after having rinsed generally with water the hair so treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously put under an oxidizing composition (oxidation stage, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. The new form imposed on the hair by such a chemical treatment is eminently durable over time and resists in particular the action of washing with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as setting in fold.

Many products intended for smoothing, straightening the hair or relaxing loops exist on the market. Products intended for smoothing or straightening are generally formulated from thiols and alkaline agents, while products intended for loosening loops contain rather products of the cysteine type and its derivatives. These products are generally applied to curly or bulky hair in order to obtain a more or less pronounced smoothing, a reduction in the volume and mass of the hair. The application of these products is generally long, with a laying time more or less long depending on the product, the type of hair and the desired effect. It requires precise know-how. In addition, reducing agents are generally employed at high concentrations, and the pHs of the formulas are fairly basic, which may result in more or less significant degradation of the hair fiber, particularly when these are colored. Finally, the implementation of such a smoothing treatment is a generally drastic choice for the consumer, who can not regulate the level of smoothing according to his choice. There is therefore a real need to develop hair lightening treatments that are lighter than those existing in the state of the art, which not only degrade the hair fiber but are also easy to apply, and allow modulation of the hair. smoothing effect, for example by resorting to repeated applications. The Applicant has now discovered that the introduction of certain sulfur-containing active ingredients into a particular shampoo base makes it possible to meet the aforementioned objectives.

In particular, it has discovered that by introducing at least one sulfur reducing agent, and at least one alkaline agent in a base of shampoo preferably slightly alkaline (close to neutrality) and containing a particular combination of surfactants based on a amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and an anionic phosphate, sulfate or sulfonate surfactant, one could obtain a shampoo composition having a smoothing activity on the hair. The application of such a composition is fast and simple, and does not require any particular know-how.

In addition, the application of this composition makes it possible to obtain a reduction in the volume of the hair, and / or a relaxation of the curls of hair, which is progressive. In particular, it is possible to modulate the desired effect, by successive applications of such a shampoo. In a particularly advantageous manner, the Applicant has also found that the use of a standard shampoo containing no reducing agent between two applications of the composition according to the invention does not modify the smoothing or relaxation of the loops (effect after-shampoo). In addition, the composition according to the invention has very good detergency and foaming properties. In addition, the treatment with such a shampoo is gentle, and does not degrade the hair fibers.

Finally, the compositions according to the present invention do not require the presence of preservatives. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) one or more amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s), b) one or more anionic surfactant (s) (s) ) selected from those containing at least one phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate function, c) one or more sulphidic reducing agent (s), and d) one or more alkaline agent (s). By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the hair. The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium comprises water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol. -butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3.4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may in particular be chosen from derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may also be made of (C 8-20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18) alkylbetaines, and (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18 alkyl) sulphobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL®, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy. Glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (I) and (II): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (Rb) (Re) (CH20OO-) (I) in which: Ra represents an alkyl group derived from an acid Ra-OOOH present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Re represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (II) wherein: B is -CH2CH2OX', B 'is - (CH2) z-Y', where z = 1 or 2, X 'is the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -COOH or the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H, Ra' represents an alkyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH present in coconut oil or in the hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from (C 8-20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18) alkyl betaines or (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18 alkyl). sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. C 8-20 alkylbetaines, C 8-20 alkylamido (C 6-18 alkyl) betaines and mixtures thereof are preferably used. A particularly preferred zwitterionic surfactant is cocoamidopropylbetaine. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also contains one or more anionic surfactant (s) chosen from anionic surfactants comprising at least one phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate function. Such anionic surfactants may in particular be chosen from the salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates and paraffins. sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds can be mono or polyoxyethylenated, and comprise up to 50 oxyethylene units.

These compounds are generally employed in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium. Surfactants having a sulphate function are preferably used, and in particular C8-C18 alkyl sulphates, C8-C18 alkyl ether sulphates containing from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures of these compounds. By way of example, mention may in particular be made of sodium lauryl ether sulphates containing from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

The anionic surfactant (s) containing at least one phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight. and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may advantageously also comprise one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides. The alkylmonoglucosides and / or alkylpolyglucosides that may be employed are preferably chosen from those whose alkyl group contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably those whose alkyl group comprises from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. . By way of example of particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of cocoglucoside and cocopolyglucosides.

Said glucoside (s) are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also advantageously comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least one carboxylate function, that is to say a function -COO-, different from the anionic surfactants (b). ). Such surfactants therefore do not comprise a phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate function. Such anionic surfactants may in particular be chosen from the salts of the following compounds: acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, the acyl groups of which contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms; C 6-24 alkyl monoesters and (poly) glucosidedicarboxylic acids, such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglucoside tartrates, the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; carbon; acyl lactylates whose acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, the alkyl groups of which contain from 6 to 24 carbon atoms; polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkylcarboxylic acids, (C 6-24) alkyl (C 6-24) aryl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 oxide units; ethylene, and mixtures of these compounds. These compounds are generally employed in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium. Preferably, the anionic surfactants comprising at least one carboxylate function are chosen from the salts of the following compounds: polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, (C 6-24) alkyl (C 6-24) aryl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24 alkyl) amidoether carboxylic acids, these acids having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units. Among these compounds, it is preferable to use the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably the polyoxyalkylenated (C 8-18) alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts. having from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. By way of example, mention may especially be made of sodium lauryl ether carboxylates containing from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The anionic surfactant (s) containing at least one carboxylate function are preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and better still from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants (s) chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides as described above, and one or more anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least a carboxylate function as described above. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants, different from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides. The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178). They may be chosen in particular from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alkyl (C1-20) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, the fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30.

It is also possible to mention the condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the esters of fatty acids and of ethoxylated sorbitan having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyethoxylated vegetable oils, N- (C 6-24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives amine oxides such as (C₁-C₁ alkyl alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C₁_ 14-acyl) -aminopropylmorpholine oxides. When present, the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant (s) is preferably in the range of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight based on the total weight. of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants. Examples of cationic surfactants that may be mentioned include salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. When cationic surfactants are present, their amount is preferably in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composition according to the present invention contains one or more sulfur reducing agent (s). These are preferably chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto (-SH) groups, sulphites, and sulphite derivatives.

By sulphite derivatives, bisulfites, sulphite diesters of formula R-O-SO 2 -R 'with R and R' denoting C 1 -C 10 alkyl groups, are essentially bisulfites. The organic compounds comprising a mercapto group are preferably chosen from the following compounds: thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid , 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, esters of thioglycolic acids or thiolactic, and mixtures of these compounds. The sulfur reducing agent (s) may in particular be used in the form of salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium and calcium salts; ammonium salts; amine salts; aminoalcohol salts. In a particularly preferred manner, the sulfur reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from: thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, alkali metal sulphites and in particular sodium sulphite, alkali metal bisulfites and in particular sodium bisulfite, and the precursors of these sulphites or bisulphites such as sodium metabisulphite. The sulfur reducing agent (s) is (are) preferably contained in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. The alkaline agent used in the compositions according to the invention may be any agent which makes it possible to increase the pH of the composition in which it is located. The alkaline agent can be a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic.

In particular, the alkaline agent may be chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and (c) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, (d) inorganic or organic hydroxides, (e) alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicates, (f) amino acids, preferably basic, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium, and h) compounds of formula ( III) next:

Wherein W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx R3-N-W-N Ry R1 (III); Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such compounds of formula (I) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine. The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from: hydroxides of an alkali metal; hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; hydroxides of a transition metal, such as the hydroxides of metals of groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of Elements; hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, and guanidinium hydroxide. The hydroxide may be formed in situ such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide, formed by the reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate. The preferred alkaline agents are in particular ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, arginine, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.

The agent (s) alkali (s) as defined above may represent for example from 0.001% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. The concentration of alkaline agent (s) is in particular adjusted according to the desired pH for the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 7 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 8. Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more swelling agents or emollients such as urea, glycols such as butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, melamine, guanidine, glycerine. Also advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conditioning agents. By way of example, mention may be made of linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, volatile or non-volatile silicones. These silicones can be in the form of oils, resins or gums; they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C. As a conditioning agent, cationic polymers such as in particular polyquaterniums are particularly preferred. 22, 6, 10, 11, 35 and 37 and hexadimethrin chloride. The concentration of conditioning agent (s) in the composition according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and more preferably still 0.1 to 3% by weight. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants. For example, it may comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral or synthetic, fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners antioxidants, hydroxyacids, pearlescent agents, perfumes and preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged . The above additives can generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is non-coloring, that is to say that it does not significantly modify the coloration of the fibers to which it is applied. Another object of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method, which comprises the application to dry or wet hair of a composition as described above. According to a preferred embodiment, such a method consists in applying the composition according to the present invention, possibly rinsing after a possible exposure time. According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises the following steps: - applying the composition according to the invention to wet hair, then - leave the composition on the hair, respecting a laying time of up to 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 15 minutes, at a temperature ranging from room temperature (about 25 ° C) to 230 ° C and preferably from room temperature to 60 ° C, and more preferably at room temperature, then - rinse the hair with water.

The hair can then be dried, for example with a helmet or hair dryer, or allowed to air dry. It is also possible to carry out a step of tensioning the hair, for example by means of a brush, a comb, or tongs, at the moment when the hair is in contact with the composition according to the invention, or after rinsing it. It is also possible to substitute this energizing step with a step of working the hair by hand or comb. However, and this is an advantage of the present invention, from the first application of the composition, including without tensioning the hair, there is a substantial reduction in the volume of the hair. When the hair is curled, there is also relaxation loops, and / or a better definition thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is repeated one or more times, until the desired level of smoothing is obtained. Thus, the present invention also relates to a method of relaxing hair curls and / or hair volume reduction, consisting of applying one or more times to the hair composition according to the invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is applied several times, either consecutively or after a time varying from a few hours to a few days, each application being followed by rinsing, until the level of relaxation and / or desired volume reduction. The application of the composition according to the invention may be followed by the application of a rinsed or non-rinsed hair care product, which may or may not contain a reducing agent.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention. This composition can be advantageously used for the detergency of hair, for smoothing thereof, or for a combined effect of detergency and smoothing.

In particular, the composition according to the invention can be applied before or after a hair treatment or conventional permanent hair with or without fixation, in order to facilitate it, or enhance its effectiveness (boosting effect "smoothing") . It can also be applied after a conventional smoothing treatment, so as to maintain the smoothing of the hair which allows for example to space smoothing treatments generally performed with more aggressive compositions. It can also be applied after a permanent treatment, to modulate the degree of crimp.

The following example is given purely by way of illustration of the present invention.

EXAMPLE:

Two shampoo compositions A and B, according to the invention, were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): Composition AB Coco-glucoside 5 g 5 g cocoamidopropyl betaine 5.4 g 5.4 g laureth-5 carboxylic acid 3 g 3 g sodium laureth sulfate 2.2 moles 4 g 4 g ethylene oxide Thioglycolic acid 1.4 g - Sodium metabisulfite - 2 g Arginine - qs pH = 7 Ammonium bicarbonate qs pH = 8 Pentasodium pentetate 0.16 g 0.16 g Water qs 100 g qs 100 g The above shampoo compositions were applied to curly and / or voluminous hair, as follows: 12 to 15 g of shampoo were applied to the damp hair, that is to say, previously wetted and wiped with a toweling towel. Then the shampoo was carefully distributed by kneading the hair. After an exposure time ranging from 2 to 5 minutes, the hair was rinsed thoroughly with water and then wrung out with a towel, combed and dried with a hair dryer. The Applicant has found that the hair was clean, and had a clear reduction in the volume of the hair. With regard to curly hair, she also found that the hair curls were more relaxed, with a better definition of the curls. The above treatment process can be repeated three times consecutively on the same hair. The effects are accentuated.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, b) one or more anionic surfactant (s) chosen from those comprising at least one function phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate, (c) one or more sulphidic reducing agent (s), and (d) one or more alkaline agent (s). 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (the) surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) are chosen from: derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a chain linear or branched having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group; alkyl (C8-20) betaines; sulfobetaines; C8-20 alkylamido (C6-8alkyl) betaines; and (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18 alkyl) sulfobetaines; and preferably from (C 8-20) alkylbetaines, (C 8-20) alkylamido (C 6-18) alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the (the) surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least one phosphate, sulphate or sulphonate function are chosen from the salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl amide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulpho acetates, the alkylsulphosuccinamates, the acylisethionates, the N-acyltaurates, the alkylphosphates, the alkyl ether phosphates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group, these compounds possibly being be mono or polyoxyethylenated, and include up to 50 units oxyethylene; and preferably are selected from (C8-C18) alkyl sulfates, (C8-C18) alkyl ether sulfates having from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units, and mixtures of these compounds. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the (the) surfactant (s) anionic (s) comprising at least one phosphate function, sulfate or sulfonate in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains, in addition, one or more surfactants chosen from alkylmonoglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides whose alkyl group contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably among those in which the alkyl group contains from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains said glucoside (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains one or more anionic surfactant (s) comprising at least one carboxylate function, different from the anionic surfactants (b) chosen from the salts of the following compounds: polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, (C 6-24) alkyl (C 6-24) aryl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) amidoether carboxylic acids, which 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and preferably from polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts having from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains the (the) surfactant (s) anionic (s) comprising at least one carboxylate function in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (the) reducing agent (s) sulfur (s) are chosen from organic compounds comprising one or more mercapto groups (-SH), the sulphites, and sulphite derivatives. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (the) reducing agent (s) sulfur (s) are chosen from: thioglycolic acid and its salts, thiolactic acid and its salts, sulfites alkali metals, alkali metal bisulfites, and precursors of alkali metal sulfites or bisulfites. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains the (the) agent (s) reducing (s) sulfur (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent is chosen from: a) ammonia, b) alkanolamines and their derivatives, c) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, d ) the inorganic or organic hydroxides, e) the alkali metal silicates, f) the preferably basic amino acids, g) the carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium, and h) the compounds of formula (III) below: wherein R is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; ; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more swelling or emollient agents and / or one or more conditioning agents. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a pH ranging from 7 to 10, and preferably from 7 to 8. 16. A method of relaxing the hair curls and / or reducing the volume of the hair, comprising applying one or more times to the hair a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, optionally before or after a smoothing treatment or permanent hair.5