FR2976801A1 - Cosmetic composition comprises amphoteric polymers comprising e.g. repetition of units obtained from monomer of (meth)acrylamide type and (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and conditioning agents comprising plant oils - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises one or more amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of units obtained from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type, and one or more conditioning agents comprising plant oils, mineral oils, non-volatile linear silicones of polydialkylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polydiarylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polyalkylarylsiloxane structure, fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol comprising 2-50 oxyethylene units, or its mixture. Composition comprises (a) one or more amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of (i) one or more units obtained from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units obtained from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type, where the amphoteric polymer is present in the composition of 0.01-10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, and (b) one or more conditioning agents comprising plant oils, mineral oils, non-volatile linear silicones of polydialkylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polydiarylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polyalkylarylsiloxane structure, fatty acid diesters of polyethylene glycol comprising 2-50 oxyethylene units, or its mixture. An independent claim is included for cosmetic process comprising applying to the keratin materials the composition and then optionally rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time, in the presence or absence of heat.

Description

B11-2504EN 1 Cosmetic composition comprising a particular amphoteric polymer, and a diester of fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol. The present invention relates to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more particular amphoteric polymers, and one or more diesters of particular fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol. . The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers using such a composition as well as a cosmetic use of said composition. In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the keratin fiber care compositions, for example those intended to be applied to sensitized hair (that is to say the hair which is damaged or weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, and / or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms and / or straightening), it is known to introduce into these the last cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents intended primarily to repair or limit the adverse or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks that undergo, more or less repeatedly, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair. Thus, users with colored or damaged hair often resort to hair care, and particularly to treating shampoos combining a silicone and a cationic polymer. These treatment shampoos have the advantage of washing the hair, like any conventional shampoo, while giving the hair conditioning properties, particularly sought after for the treatment of sensitized hair. In addition, these products are used frequently by the users and do not require an additional processing step, which can be tedious or restrictive in some cases. These shampoos combining a silicone and a cationic polymer give a feeling of fluidity and lightness, especially due to the use of silicones. On the other hand, following the repeated use of this type of shampoo, an effect known as "build-up" can appear, which manifests itself by a feeling of heaviness of the keratinous fibers, a touch and a loaded, dirty and / or fat. This "build-up" effect is due, among other things, to the successive deposition of the conditioning agent (s) on the fibers, without the previously deposited one being correctly eliminated. Thus, the deposition of conditioning agent is becoming thicker and leads to increased weight of the fibers. Users therefore seek to obtain a fluid conditioning effect of keratinous fibers, without weighing effect over applications, and with a lasting feeling of cleanliness of said fibers. It is also sought a sensation of regularity in the cosmetic touch obtained, in particular a homogeneity of touch from the root to the tip of the keratinous fibers.

Finally, users are also looking for products with a visual appearance and a pleasant texture. There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions which make it possible to condition the hair in a satisfactory manner, and in particular to give them good properties in terms of lightness, smoothing, shine, touch and disentangling of the hair, without weighting. fibers following repeated use of the composition. Also sought are compositions which are stable over time, which have good properties of use (which are particularly easy to apply, to rinse off, and which have good foam properties if any), which are pleasant to use and which have a visual aesthetic appearance. The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of a diester fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol with a particular amphoteric polymer achieved the objectives outlined above. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and of polyethylene glycol comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and (b) one or more polymers (s) ) amphoteric (s) comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and iii) one or more units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type.

This composition makes it possible in particular to obtain homogeneous cosmetic effects on the fibers, and this without the effect of "build-up" or of the weighting of the hair. The hair, including the low to very sensitive fibers, is soft, shiny and supple, with a lasting feeling of cleanliness, and easy to comb. This composition also makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory volume of the hair and, for the curly hair, a good definition of loops. In addition, the composition according to the present invention has a pearly aspect particularly aesthetic, and a particularly pleasant texture.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying a composition according to the invention to keratin materials. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not, applied under the effect of heat or not. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used as shampoo for washing and conditioning the hair, or as hair care products.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for improving hair styling, flexibility, smoothing and / or disentangling hair. It should be noted that the compositions according to the invention are also storage stable both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C, in particular in terms of their visual appearance and their viscosity. By "stable" in the sense of the present invention is meant that the visual appearance and the viscosity of these compositions do not change substantially over time under standard conditions of storage tests, for example: during the 2 months to room temperature (20 ° C-25 ° C), and / or at 45 ° C and / or 4 ° C, which follow their manufacture. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to".

In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". The composition according to the present invention contains one or more diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units.

By "fatty" compound is meant in the sense of the present invention a compound comprising a fatty chain, that is to say an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The diesters of fatty acid (s) and of polyethylene glycol which can be used according to the invention advantageously have the following formula (A): (A) with R and R ', which are identical or different, each denoting an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms; and n denoting an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, and more preferably from 2 to 10. Preferably, R and R ', which are identical or different, each denote an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched. , comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and more preferably 17 carbon atoms. In a particularly preferred manner, said diester is a polyethylene glycol distearate comprising from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 10 and more preferably from 2 to 5, oxyethylene units.

The composition according to the invention contains said diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and of polyethylene glycol in a content ranging preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention contains one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the type (Meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acidic monomer. Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of the (i) (meth) acrylamide type of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 denotes H or CH 3, - R 2 is selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH20H. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (I). The unit derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type of formula (I) in which R1 denotes H and Rz is an amino radical is particularly preferred. I1 corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself. Also preferably, the units derived from a (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (II): R 3 CH 2 in which: - R 3 denotes H or CH 3, - R 4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; RS and R6, and R7, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Among these units resulting from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialky] ammonium type, those derived from the monomer methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is 3, R5, Rb and R7, are preferred. denote a methyl radical, and Y "denotes a chloride anion, the amphoteric polymer of the invention preferably comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (II), and finally the units derived from an acidic monomer of type (iii) (meth) acrylic acid of the amphoteric polymer are preferably chosen from the units of formula (III) in which: - R8 denotes H or ClCl, 15 - Ry denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH3 The preferred units of formulas (III) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, preferably the unit derived from an acidic acidic monomer ( meth) acrylic is the one from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and Ry denotes a hydroxyl radical. Ise or acid monomers of (meth) acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or completely neutralized with an organic or inorganic base. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (III). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one amphoteric polymer comprises at least 30 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%. The content of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer can advantageously be the following: from 10 to 60%, preferably from 20 to 55% by moles. The content of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type may advantageously be as follows: from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% by moles.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol% from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%, of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type. The amphoteric polymer (s) according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different from the units resulting from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of the (meth) acrylic acid type as described hereinabove. before. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers consist solely of units derived from (i) (meth) acrylamide type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) acid type monomers. (meth) acrylic acid. As an example of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of terpolymers acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid. Such polymers are listed in the C.T.F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names MERQUAT 2003 and MERQUAT 2003 PR by the company NALCO. The amphoteric polymer according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner, by polymerization from its various monomers, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art and in particular by radical polymerization. The amphoteric polymer or polymers are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.02 and 5% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 1. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight ratio between the amount of fatty acid (s) diester (s) and polyethylene glycol (a) and the amount of amphoteric polymer (s) (b) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0 , 1 to 30, more preferably 1 to 25, and more preferably 1 to 10. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants, surfactants. amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO2, POH, PO. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-(C1-C4) alkyls. acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-acid salts, carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C6-24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulphosuccinates. C6-24 alkyl. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function.

As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and the alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) sold, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

The anionic surfactant (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, and even more more preferably 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of alkyl (C8-zo) betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl) amido (C3-g alkyl) betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl) amido (C6-g alkyl) ) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of optionally used quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) (CH2000-) (A1) in which: Ra represents a C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a Ra-000H acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (A2) wherein: B is -CH2CH2OX', B 'is - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'is the group -CH2-000H, CH2-COO2 ', -CH2CH2-000H, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -000H, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-S03H or -CH2- CHOH-SO3Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.

Ra 'represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-000H acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoampho dipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of C 8-20 alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, C 8-20 alkylamido (C 3-8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine. When present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C1-20) phenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 atoms. carbon number, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. It is also possible to mention the condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the fatty acid esters of sorbitan ethoxylates having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-24) alkyl polyglycosides, N- (C6-24) alkyl derivatives glucamine, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C10-14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cationic surfactant (s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular the primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (VI) + Rs \ / R10 / N

Wherein the groups Rg to RH, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to R 11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C12) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-Czz) acetate, and hydroxy-C1-C30 alkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C1-C4) sulfates, alkyl (C1-C4) - or alkyl (C1 C4) arylsulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains X from about 12 to 22 atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or finally palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (VII) below: + R13 / R14 (VII) in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derivatives of tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl C4) arylsulphonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (VIII) below: R17 R19 R16-N- (CH2) NI -R21 R18 R20 (VIII)

wherein R 16 denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. carbon or a group - (CH 2) 3-N + (R 16a) (R 17a) (R 18), R 16a, Rua, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1- C4) aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups, such as, for example, those of formula (IX) below: 2 + 2X-O-O-C (O-CrHr 2 (OH) 1) yi (CtHt 2 (OH wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, R23 is selected from: ## STR2 ## wherein R22 is selected from the group consisting of: the group R2s C-,

the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based R 27 groups, the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, r, s and t , identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6, r1 and t1, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer from 1 to 10 , x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IX) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: O - the group R2sc-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from: O - the group R28 c-, - the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds of formula (IX) include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or methyl para-toluenesulfonate, the chlorohydrin of the glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. When the composition contains one or more cationic surfactants, their content preferably varies from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants, and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, preferably the total amount of surfactants in the composition according to the invention varies from 3 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 50% by weight. at 30% by weight, better still from 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous, and comprises at least 30% by weight of water, and preferably at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more organic solvents which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid organic solvent (s) is (are) chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like. glycerol, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof. When the composition of the invention is aqueous, or contains an aqueous phase, its pH is generally between 2 and 9, and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it will from 3 to 6.

It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application or else using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, it is possible to use inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, amino acids, sulphonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, amino acids, hydroxides of sodium or sodium hydroxide. potassium and the compounds of the following formula: NWN. Rc Rd in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, Ra, Rb, R, and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group; C4 or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl. Preferably, the pH adjusting agents may be chosen from alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-one, and the like. propanol, an alkaline hydroxide, or acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid or citric acid. The composition according to the present invention may also contain one or more silicones, and in particular one or more non-volatile liquid silicones such as linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). In the context of the invention, linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) is understood to mean a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 cst at 25 ° C., especially a silicone oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.1 mmHg. at 25 ° C. According to a particular embodiment, this viscosity is between 5 and 1,000,000 cst, preferably between 5 and 100,000 cst, and even more preferably between 100 and 10,000 cst. The composition according to the present invention may also contain one or more other volatile or nonvolatile silicones, organomodified or non-organomodified by organic groups such as quaternized or non-quaternized amino groups or thiol groups. The silicone or silicones may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ra. Rb The composition according to the present invention may also contain one or more thickening agents, which may be chosen in particular from cellulosic thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, marketed by Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as homopolymers crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, for example Carbomer, associative non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, such as, for example, the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TRI or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, ACULYN 22 , 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, water-soluble and fat-soluble sunscreens, silicone or non-silicone filters, sequestering agents, fatty substances and by for example, C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols, oily or waxy fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils such as α-olefins or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot oil, camelina oil, liquid petrolatum; solubilizing agents, antioxidants, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents for preventing and / or regrowing hair, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers and preservatives, or any other additive conventionally used in the field cosmetic. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be transparent or translucent, that is to say that these compositions have a transmittance at 600 nanometers greater than 85%, better than 90% and even more preferably greater than 94%. The compositions according to the invention may be present, in a nonlimiting manner, in the form of shampoos, care to be applied if necessary before and / or after shampooing or a coloring or a permanent, of coloring products, of discoloration, of permanent, straightening, styling. According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo.

In this case, it advantageously contains: one or more fatty acid and polyethylene glycol diester (s) comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units as described above, polymer (s) amphoteric (s) such (s) as described above, - one or more anionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight and more particularly 8 at 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, optionally one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, optionally one or more nonionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0, 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally, one or more silicone (s), in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the comp osition.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of hair care. In this case, it advantageously contains: one or more fatty acid and polyethylene glycol diester (s) comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units as described above, amphoteric polymer (s) as described above, and one or more cationic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, such as the hair, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Whether rinsed or non-rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done with or without heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature can be between 40 and 220 ° C. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used as shampoo, intended for washing and conditioning the hair. The compositions according to the invention are also used to facilitate the styling and / or to improve the suppleness, the smoothing and / or the disentangling of the hair. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

In the following example, all the amounts are indicated as mass percentage of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. A shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Content (wt%) Sodium lauryl sulphate 4 Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (2.2 EO) 11.9 Polyquaternium-53 (1) 0.5 Zinc pyrithione (2) 1 Carboxyvinyl polymer (3) 0, 3 Coconut monoethanolamide 1,8 Polyethylene glycol distearate 3 EO (3 1.5 oxyethylene units) Dimethicone 0.75 Glycerol 2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Sodium chloride 1.1 Salicylic acid 0.2 Fragrance qs Agent pH qs pH = 5.3 Water qs 100% 1) sold under the trade name MERQUAT 2003PR by the company NALCO (2) sold under the trademark ZINC OMADINE PYRITHIONE 48% DSP COSM NE by the company ARCH CHEMICAL (»sold under the name trade name CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL The shampoo composition obtained is stable over time, both at room temperature and at 45 ° C. This composition is used as a shampoo, by application to damp hair and, after having lather the composition and respected a setting time of a few minutes, the composition is removed from the hair by rinsing with water. This composition has been tested by experts, who have found that it leads to good cosmetic properties, and in particular good conditioning properties in terms of smoothing and disentangling, while maintaining a good lightness of the hair, without effect of heavier. Hair is also easier to comb. In addition, the composition has a pearly appearance particularly aesthetic (shiny pearl almost metallized).

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and (b) one or more amphoteric polymer (s) comprising repeating (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol have the following formula (A): ## STR2 ## R and R ', which may be identical or different, each denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, carbon, and more preferably 17 carbon atoms; and n denoting an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, and more preferably from 2 to 10. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said diester is a polyethylene glycol distearate comprising from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 10 and more preferably from 2 to 5 oxyethylene units. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises said diester (s) of fatty acid (s) and polyethylene glycol in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, of preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type of the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (I) below: CH2 in which: - R1 denotes H or CH 3, - R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH 2 OH radical, and is preferably derived from acrylamide. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (II): R 3 CH 2 (I) Y in which R3 denotes H or CH3; R4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; RS and R6, and R7, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y "is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate or bisulfite; , sulfate, phosphate, and are preferably derived from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the '' moti'fs derived from a monomer, acid type (meth) acrylic acid of the amphoteric polymer are selected from the motives of formula (III) CH2 10 in which: - Rg is H or CH2, R3 is a hydroxyl radical or a radical -N1-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-SO3H, 1'5 and are preferably derived from acrylic acid. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol%, preferably from 40 to 60 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of the type (meth ) acrylamide, 10 to 60 mol%, preferably 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylam, onium type, and - from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acidic monomer. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer or polymers are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight. by weight, and more particularly from 0.05 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of the fatty acid (s) diester (s) and polyethylene glycol (a) and the amount of the amphoteric polymer (s). (b) ranges from 0.1 to 30, more preferably from 1 to 25, and more preferably from 1 to 10. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyls (C1- C4) N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, acid salts alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. 13. Composition according to one of claims 11 and 12, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants in a content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, and still more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that it comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably chosen from (C 8 -C 20) betaines alkyls, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines , and their mixtures. 15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 as a shampoo for cleaning and conditioning keratinous fibers. 16. Use according to claim 15, to facilitate styling and / or improve the flexibility, smoothing and / or disentangling of hair.