FR2976800A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND OF THE SILICON AND AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more organic silicon compound (s) chosen from silanes comprising a silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, said organic silicon compounds further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule, and (b) one or more amphoteric polymer (s) comprising the repetition of (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type. This composition may especially be used for the care of keratin fibers such as the hair

Description

B11-2359EN 1 Cosmetic composition comprising at least one organic silicon compound and at least one particular amphoteric polymer The present invention relates to an improved cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous fibers, in particular the washing and / or the cosmetic treatment of hair and which comprises at least one organic silicon compound and at least one particular amphoteric polymer.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers using said composition, as well as the use of this composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular the hair.

To improve the cosmetic properties of keratin fiber care compositions, for example those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (that is to say the hair which is generally damaged or weakened by the action of the agents such as light and weather, and / or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms and / or straightening), it is known to introduce in the latter cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents intended principally to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggression that the hair fibers undergo more or less repeatedly. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair. For this purpose, it has already been proposed to use cosmetically active organic compounds such as cationic polymers and silicones as conditioning agents, in detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties. in particular shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and improved disentangling ability. However, the use of these compounds in cosmetic washing and conditioning compositions does not provide hair with satisfactory and lasting styling properties. Indeed, these compositions generally provide styling effects, such as maintaining effects, body and / or discipline of the hair, which remain insufficient and which tend to fade after washing the hair with a conventional shampoo.

However, consumers are increasingly looking for washing compositions that are not only able to condition the hair in a suitable manner, but also capable of providing satisfactory and lasting styling effects. In order to meet these requirements, compositions have been developed for washing and conditioning hair which comprise organic silicon compounds, such as, for example, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. These washing compositions make it possible to condition the hair, in particular by providing a satisfactory soft touch, while imparting marked and lasting styling effects. In particular, these compositions have proved particularly advantageous because they make it possible to facilitate the shaping of fine hair and to confer interesting styling effects on curly or curly hair, in particular by improving the design and control of loops. However, compositions comprising such organic silicon compounds often have the disadvantage of evolving substantially over time under normal storage conditions as a function of temperature, especially in terms of their viscosity and their visual appearance. In other words, these compositions are often not very stable in storage, which most often results in a blurred visual appearance and / or unsatisfactory texture.

In particular, the introduction of certain organic silicon compounds, for example amino derivatives such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, into cosmetic compositions which generally have a pH ranging from 4 to 7, also gives rise to stability problems due to the fact that alkali of these compounds. These stability problems are particularly pronounced in the case of detergent compositions intended for cleaning keratinous fibers, which contain surfactants of the anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric type, in particular.

Indeed, it has been found that organic silicon compounds, such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, are not compatible with all the surfactants, especially anionic surfactants, which may be present in the washing compositions, which increases stability issues.

There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, in particular compositions intended for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers, which contain organic silicon compounds, and which do not have all the disadvantages described above. .

Particularly, compositions which are stable over time and which make it possible to condition the hair satisfactorily while providing powerful and lasting styling effects, in particular in terms of mass, body, and texturing of the hair, are particularly sought after.

The Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate cosmetic compositions having the desired properties, and which contain one or more organic silicon compounds as defined below, by incorporating into these compositions a particular amphoteric polymer, comprising from (meth) acrylamide, (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and (meth) acrylic acid monomers. Indeed, it has been found that the incorporation of these particular amphoteric polymers in cosmetic compositions containing organic silicon compounds makes it possible to obtain compositions which lead to very good cosmetic properties and to make these compositions stable in storage both at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C) at 45 ° C, especially in terms of their visual appearance and their viscosity, including when these compositions comprise one or more surfactants. By "stable" in the sense of the present invention is meant that the visual appearance and the viscosity of these compositions do not change substantially over time under standard conditions of storage tests, for example: during the 2 months to room temperature (20 ° C-25 ° C), and / or at 45 ° C and / or 4 ° C, which follow their manufacture. The compositions according to the invention lead to a particularly satisfactory conditioning, including for damaged or sensitized hair, giving them, in particular, a soft feel, improved disentangling ability, softness, shine and flexibility. Furthermore, the compositions according to the present invention provide the hair with powerful styling effects, and they provide in particular mass, body and / or discipline, and this in a sustainable manner.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to facilitate the shaping of the hair, in particular of fine hair, and to confer improved styling effects on curly hair, in particular in terms of drawing and control of the curls, and this of sustainable way.

Finally, as indicated above, it should be noted that the conditioning and shaping properties of the hair are particularly durable, and in particular, remanent to shampoos. The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition and in particular for the care of keratin fibers, comprising: (a) one or more organic silicon compound (s) chosen from silanes comprising a silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, said organic silicon compounds further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule, and (b) one or more amphoteric polymer (s) comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, (ii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from an acidic monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, comprising the application on said fibers of the composition according to the invention.

It also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the care of the hair, and in particular for washing and conditioning the hair. In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. The organic compounds of silicon (a) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from organosilanes comprising a silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms. They must further comprise one or more basic chemical functions, and preferably a single basic chemical function. The basic chemical function may correspond to any function conferring a basic character to the silicon compound and is preferably an amine function such as a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. The silicon compounds according to the invention may optionally comprise other functions, such as, for example, an acid function or a halogen function.

The organic silicon compound or compounds (a) used in the composition according to the invention also comprise one or more hydrolyzable or hydroxyl groups per molecule, and preferably at least two hydrolyzable or hydroxyl groups per molecule. The hydrolyzable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogen groups. They may also possibly include other chemical functions such as acid functions. According to a particular embodiment, the organosilane (s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I):

Wherein R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'1; RS is halogen, OR "or R'z, R6 is halogen, OR" or R'3; R1, R2, R3, R ', R ", R"', R'1, R'z, R'3 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally bearing groups R1, R2, R ', R "and R"' may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R4, RS and R6 respectively designating OR ', OR' and OR ', at least two of R ', R "and R"' groups being different from hydrogen, R 1, R 2, R ', R' 1, R '2, R' 3, R "and R" 'are preferably chosen from C1 to C12 alkyl, C6 to C14 aryl, C1 to C6 alkyl, C6 to C14 aryl, and C6 to C14 aryl to C1 to C6 alkyl.

According to another particular embodiment, the organosiloxane (s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (II): in which: R1, R2, R3, RS and R6 are defined as above; R'4 represents a halogen atom or a group OR11; R7 represents a halogen atom, an OR10 group or R "1 R9 represents a halogen atom, a group ORg, R" z or R3NRIR2; R "1, R", R 8, R 10 and R 11 represent a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, the R 11, R 10 and R 8 groups may also represent a hydrogen atom; ; at least one of the groups R6, R7 and R9 denoting a halogen atom, a group OR ', OR10 or ORg. Preferably, the groups R "1, R", R, or R 1 and R 1 are chosen from C 1 -C 12 alkyl, C 6 -C 14 aryl, C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 6 -C 14 aryl and aryl radicals. C6-C14-C1-C8 alkyl. In particular, the halogen atom is a chlorine atom. The organic silicon compound (s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably organosilanes chosen from compounds of formula (III): ## STR2 ## in which the radicals R, which are identical or different, are chosen from C1 to C6 alkyl radicals, preferably C1 to C2, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. Preferably, the silanes or siloxanes are soluble in water and even more preferentially soluble at the concentration of 2%, better at the concentration of 5% and even better at the concentration of 10% by weight in water at the temperature of 25 ° C ± 5 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. . By soluble is meant the formation of a single macroscopic phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, the organic silicon compound (a) present in the composition according to the invention is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. The organic compound or compounds of silicon (a) may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably at a content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, and more preferably at a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention contains one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the type (Meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acidic monomer. Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (i) (meth) acrylamide type of the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (IV) as follows:

CH2

Wherein R 1 is H or CH 3; R 2 is selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH 2 OH. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (IV).

The unit derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer of formula (IV) in which R 1 denotes H and R 2 is an amino radical is particularly preferred. I1 corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself. Also preferably, the units derived from a (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (V): R 3 CH 2 in which: - R 3 denotes H or CH 3, - R 4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; - RS and R6, and R7, identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Among these units resulting from a monomer of (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y are preferred. - means a chloride anion. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (V). Y (V) Finally, the units derived from an acidic monomer of (iii) (meth) acrylic acid type of the amphoteric polymer are preferably chosen from the units of formula (VI):

In which: Rg denotes H or CH3; R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-SO3H.

The preferred units of formulas (VI) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid. Preferably, the unit derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rg denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical. The acid monomer (s) of the (meth) acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or completely neutralized with an organic or inorganic base. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (VI). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one amphoteric polymer comprises at least 30 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%. The content of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer can advantageously be the following: from 10 to 60%, preferably from 20 to 55% by moles. R $ 1 The content of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type may advantageously be as follows: from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% by moles. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol% from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%, of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type. The amphoteric polymer (s) according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different from the units resulting from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type, of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of the (meth) acrylic acid type as described hereinabove. before. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers consist solely of units derived from (i) (meth) acrylamide type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) acid type monomers. (meth) acrylic acid. As examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the C.T.F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names MERQUAT 2003 and MERQUAT 2003 PR by the company NALCO. The amphoteric polymer according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner, by polymerization from its various monomers, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art and in particular by radical polymerization.

The amphoteric polymer (s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0, 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight ratio between the amount of the organic compound (s) of the silicon (a) and the quantity of the amphoteric polymer (s) (b) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 30, more preferably from 1 to 25, and more preferably 10 to 20. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO2, POH, PO. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-(C1-C4) alkyls. acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-acid salts, carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C6-24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulphosuccinates. C6-24 alkyl. When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function. As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and the alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) sold, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO. The anionic surfactant (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, and still more preferably from 4 to 15% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of alkyl (C8-zo) betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl) amido (C3-g alkyl) betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl) amido (C6-g alkyl) ) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines optionally quaternized that may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2): Ra-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (Rb) (Rc) (CHz000-) (Al) in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a Ra-000H acid, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (A2) wherein: B is -CH2CH2OX', B 'is - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'is the group -CH2-0OOH, CH2-COOZ ', -CH2CH2-OOOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -000H, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2- CHOH-SO3Z ', Z' represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine. Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-O00H acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoampho dipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 3 -C 8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When present, the amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C1-20) phenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 atoms. carbon number, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. It is also possible to mention the condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the fatty acid esters of sorbitan ethoxylated ethers having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, C 6-24 alkyl polyglycosides, N- (C 6-24 alkyl) derivatives glucamine, amine oxides such as (C₁_₁ alkyl alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C₁_14 acyl) -aminopropylmorpholine oxides. When present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant (s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cationic surfactant (s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular the primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example - those having the following general formula (VII) + Rs / R10 N R9 / R11

(VII) in which the groups Rg to RH, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of groups Rg to R11 having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C12) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and hydroxy-C1-C30 alkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C1-C4) sulfates, alkyl (C1-C4) - or alkyl (C1 C4) arylsulphonates.

Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or

on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70. by the company VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (VIII) below:

R13 / R14 (VIII) wherein R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulphonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO. the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IX) below: ## STR2 ##

in which R 16 denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH 2) 3 -N + (R 16a) (R 17) (R 18), R 16a, Rua, R 18a, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or a group alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75). quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula (X): (CsH 2 O) z R25 + R24 C (O-CrHr2 (OH) r) yl (C1H12 ( Wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl groups, R23 is selected from: 2+ 2X-O II R28 X 12'1 - the group R2s C-, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, - the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: OI - the group R20-les, - the saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers equal to 2 to 6, r 1 and t 1, identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, r 2 + r 1 = 2 r and t 1 + t 2 = 2 t, y is an integer are from 1 to 10, where x and z, which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C1 -C4) sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl- or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl-sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (X) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from: O - the group R26c - the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from R 2, R 20, R 24, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of the compounds of formula (X) that may be mentioned include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate. ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, proposed by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose the cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. When the composition contains one or more cationic surfactants, their content preferably varies from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants, and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Preferably, the total amount of surfactants in the composition according to the invention varies from 3 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, better still from 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic acids.

By organic acid is meant any nonpolymeric organic compound having one or more acid functional groups selected from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid and phosphoric acid functions. Preferably, the organic acid is not a surfactant.

Even more preferably, the molecular weight of the organic acid is less than 250, more preferably less than 200. The organic acids may be amino acids. The organic acid or acids are preferably chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid and maleic acid. phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid.

Even more preferentially, the organic acid or acids are chosen from carboxylic acids, and more preferably alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acids or AHAs. Even more preferentially, the organic acid (s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from lactic acid and citric acid, and preferably lactic acid. In the composition, the organic acid may be in free or salified form. The organic acid or acids may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content, expressed as free acids, ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention generally comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiary amine and the like. butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures. The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 11 and preferably from 5 to 10, better still from 7 to 10. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as that: thickeners or regulators of viscosity, natural or synthetic; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; volatile or non-volatile silicones, organomodified or non-organomodified with organic groups such as quaternized or non-quaternized amino groups or thiol groups; oily or waxy fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils such as α-olefins or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot oil, camelina oil, liquid petrolatum; vitamins or provitamins; pH stabilizers, preservatives; and dyes. The thickening agent (s) may be chosen in particular from cellulosic thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, marketed by Rhodia under the name reference JAGUAR HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickening agents such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, for example Carbomer, polymers associative nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, such as for example the polymers sold under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be transparent or translucent, that is to say that these compositions have a transmittance at 600 nanometers greater than 85%, better than 90% and even more preferably greater than 94%. They can also be pearlescent with compounds such as, for example, mono or distearate of ethylene glycol or of polyethylene glycol, distearyl ether and betacyclodextrin. The compositions according to the invention may be present, in a nonlimiting manner, in the form of shampoos, care to be applied if necessary before and / or after shampooing or a coloring or a permanent, of coloring products, of discoloration, of permanent, straightening, styling. According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo. In this case, it advantageously contains: one or more organic compound (s) of silicon (a) as described above, one or more amphoteric polymer (s) (b) as described above, - one or more anionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, optionally, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight; weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally one or more nonionic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. In a variant of this embodiment, the composition comprises at least one N-acyl N-alkyltaurate whose acyl group comprises from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in the form of a sodium salt. alkali or alkaline earth metal According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair care. In this case, it advantageously contains: one or more organic compound (s) of silicon (a) as described above, one or more amphoteric polymer (s) (b) as described above, and - one or more cationic surfactant (s), in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, such as the hair, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Whether rinsed or non-rinsed mode, the application of the composition can be done with or without heat. The heater may be a hair dryer, a helmet, a round or flat iron. The heating temperature can be between 40 and 220 ° C. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used as shampoo for washing and conditioning the hair. The following example serves to illustrate the present invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

The composition (A) according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition A (Invention) Polyquaternium-53 (→ 0.10 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (L) 1.5 Lactic Acid 0.47 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) 6 Coco-Betaine (4) 4.5 PEG-150 Distearate ( 0.8 Sodium chloride 2.37 DMDM hydantoin 0.14 Phenoxyethanol 0.003 pH agent Qs pH = 7 Perfume 0.5 Water qs 100 g 28 (1) sold under the trade name MERQUAT 2003PR by NALCO (2) ) sold under the name XIAMETER OFS E011 SILANE by the company Dow Corning (3) sold under the trade name HOSTAPON CT PATE by the company Clariant (4) sold under the trade name DEHYTON AB 30 by the company COGNIS (5) sold under the name KESSCO PEG 6000 trade name by ITALMATCH CHEMICALS ARESE

A composition is obtained which is clear and stable over time, both at room temperature and at 45 ° C. Applied as a shampoo, the composition (A) provides styling effects particularly satisfactory, durable and after-wash. This composition also gives fine hair mass and volume. For curly and curly hair, this composition provides a good definition of curls. Finally, this composition gives hair a very soft shine and feel, including dry, damaged or sensitized hair.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more organic silicon compound (s) selected from silanes comprising a silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, said organic silicon compounds further comprising one or more several basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydrolyzable groups per molecule, and (b) one or more amphoteric polymer (s) comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of the type ( meth) acrylamide, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acidic monomer. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic chemical function (s) of the organic silicon compound are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary amines. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrolysable group (s) of the organic silicon compound are chosen from alkoxy, aryloxy and halogen groups. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the organic compound or silicon compounds are chosen from: - the compounds of formula (I): R1 / R4 R / N-R3 S \ R5 2 R6 (I) wherein: R4 is halogen, OR 'or R'1; RS is halogen, OR "or R'z, R6 is halogen, OR" or R'3; R1, R2, R3, R ', R ", R"', R'1, R'z, R'3 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally bearing groups R1, R2, R ', R "and R"' may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R4, RS and R6 respectively designating OR ', OR' and OR ', at least two of R ', R "and R"' being different from hydrogen, and - the compounds of formula (II): in which: R1, R2, R3, RS and R6 are defined as above; R'4 represents an atom halogen or a group OR11; R7 represents a halogen atom, an OR10 group or R "1 R9 represents a halogen atom, a group ORg, R" z or R3NRIR2; R "1, R" z, R8 R 10 and R 11 represent a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, optionally carrying additional chemical groups, the R 11, R 10 and R 8 groups may also represent a hydrogen atom; at least one of the groups R6, R7 and R9 denoting a halogen atom, a group OR ', OR10 or ORg; in formulas (I) and (II) above, the groups R 1, R 2, R ', R' 1, R'z, R '3, R ", R"', R "1, R" z, R8, Rio and Rii are preferably selected from C1-C18 alkyl, C6-C14 aryl, C1-C8 alkyl-C6-C16 aryl, and C6-C14 aryl-C1-C6 alkyl. 7 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic silicon compound (s) is (are) chosen from compounds of formula (III): ## STR2 ## in which R radicals, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C2 radicals, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic silicon compound is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound or compounds of silicon (a) are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3. % by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (IV): CH2 in which: - R1 denotes H or CH 3, - R 2 is selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH 2 OH, and are preferably derived from acrylamide. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a (IV) type (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (V): R 3 CH 2 in which: - R3 denotes H or CH3, - R4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; - RS and R6, and R7, identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, and are preferably derived from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid type acidic monomer of the amphoteric polymer are chosen from the units of formula (VI): R $ in which: - Rg denotes H or CH3, - R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-SO3H, and are preferably derived from acrylic acid. Y (V) CH 2 (VI) 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol%, preferably from 40 to 60 mol%, of units derived from a monomer of the type (meth ) acrylamide, from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight. in moles of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer or polymers are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.05 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of the organic compound (s) of the silicon (a) and the amount of the amphoteric polymer (s) (b) ranges from 0.5 to 30. more preferably from 1 to 25, and more preferably from 10 to 20. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises one or more surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. 15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants in a content ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, and still more preferably from 4 to 15% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl (C1-C4) N-acyltaurates, and salts thereof. alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. 16. Composition according to one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that it comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10%. by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably chosen from (C 8-20 alkyl) betaines, (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 6 -C 8 alkyl) betaines and their mixtures. 17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 as a shampoo for cleaning and conditioning keratinous fibers.