WO2012175681A2

WO2012175681A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one organosilicon compound and at least one specific amphoteric polymer

Info

Publication number: WO2012175681A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/062098
Authority: WO
Inventors: Valérie Viravau; Carine Aires
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-06-23
Filing date: 2012-06-22
Publication date: 2012-12-27
Also published as: FR2976800A1; FR2976800B1; WO2012175681A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more organosilicon compounds selected from silanes comprising one silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, said organosilicon compounds further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydrolysable groups per molecule, and (b) one or more amphoteric polymers comprising repetition of (i) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and (iii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer. This composition may especially be used to care for keratin fibres such as the hair.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one organosilicon compound and at least one specific amphoteric polymer

The present invention relates to an improved cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular for washing and/or cosmetic treatment of the hair, and that comprises at least one organosilicon compound and at least one specific amphoteric polymer.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibres using said composition, and to the use of this composition for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres and especially the hair.

To improve the cosmetic properties of the treatment compositions for keratin fibres, for example those that are required to be applied to sensitized hair (i. e. hair that is generally damaged or embrittled by the action o f external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing), it is now common practice to introduce into these compositions additional cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents, which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by the various treatments or attacking factors to which the hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subj ected. These conditioning agents may, o f course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.

With this aim, it has already been proposed to use cosmetically active organic compounds such as cationic polymers and silicones as conditioning agents in detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos, to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular in terms o f sheen, so ftness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and improved disentangling.

However, the use o f these compounds in cosmetic washing and hair-conditioning compositions does not give the hair satisfactory and long-lasting styling properties . Specifically, these compositions generally afford styling effects, such as hair ho ld, body and/or manageability effects, which remain insufficient and which have a tendency to fade out after washing hair with a standard shampoo .

Now, consumers are increasingly in search o f washing compositions that are not only capable of appropriately conditioning the hair, but also capable o f affording satisfactory and long-lasting styling effects.

To meet these requirements, compositions intended for washing and conditioning the hair that comprise organosilicon compounds, such as for example 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane, have been developed. These washing compositions condition the hair, especially by giving it a satisfactory so ft feel, while at the same time imparting pronounced and long-lasting styling effects.

Specifically, these compositions have proved to be particularly advantageous since they facilitate the shaping o f fine hair and give advantageous styling effects to curly or very curly hair, especially by improving fashioning and control of the curls .

However, compositions comprising such organosilicon compounds generally have the drawback of changing substantially over time under normal storage conditions as a function o f temperature, especially as regards their viscosity and their appearance. In other words, these compositions o ften prove to be somewhat unstable when stored, which is usually reflected by a cloudy appearance and/or by an unsatisfactory texture.

Specifically, the addition o f certain organosilicon compounds, for example amino derivatives such as 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane, into cosmetic compositions that generally have a pH ranging from 4 to 7 also gives rise to stability problems due to the alkaline nature o f these compounds .

These stability problems are particularly marked for the case o f detergent compositions intended for cleaning keratin fibres, which contain surfactants, especially anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric surfactants . Specifically, it has been found that organosilicon compounds, such as 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane, are not compatible with all surfactants, especially anionic surfactants, which may be present in washing compositions, increasing the stability problems .

Therefore there is a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, in particular compositions intended for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibres, which contain organosilicon compounds, and which do not present the drawbacks described above.

The target is most specifically compositions that are stable over time and that condition the hair satisfactorily while providing powerful and long-lasting styling effects, especially in terms o f hair mass, body and texturing.

The Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate cosmetic compositions having the sought-after properties, and that contain one or more organosilicon compounds as defined hereinafter, by incorporating into these compositions a specific amphoteric polymer, comprising units from monomers o f the (meth)acrylamide, (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and (meth)acrylic acid type.

Indeed, it has been observed that incorporating these specific amphoteric polymers into cosmetic compositions containing organosilicon compounds delivers compositions with very good cosmetic properties and makes these compositions stable when stored both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 °C, especially for their appearance and viscosity, and continue to do so when these compositions comprise one or more surfactants .

For the purposes o f the present invention, the term "stable" means that the appearance and viscosity of these compositions do not change substantially over time under standard storage test conditions, for examp le at room temperature (20-25 °C) and/or at 45°C and/or at 4°C for two months after being manufactured.

Compositions in accordance with the invention lead to particularly satisfactory conditioning, including for damaged or sensitized hair, giving it especially a soft feel, improved disentangling ability, softness, sheen and suppleness.

Moreover, the compositions in accordance with the present invention afford the hair powerful styling effects, especially as regards their provision o f vo lume, body and/or manageability, and do so in a lasting manner.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention facilitate the shaping o f the hair, especially o f fine hair, and give improved styling effects to curly hair, especially in terms o f the fashioning and control of the curls, and do so in a lasting manner.

Finally, as indicated previously, it should be noted that the hair conditioning and shaping properties are particularly long-lasting, and, especially, persist after shampooing.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, and in particular for treating keratin fibres, comprising :

(a) one or more organosilicon compounds selected from silanes comprising one silicon atom and siloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, said organosilicon compounds further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl or hydro lysable groups per mo lecule, and

(b) one or more amphoteric polymers comprising repetition of:

(i) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,

(ii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

(iii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer,

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, comprising application to said fibres o f the composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for hair care, especially for washing and conditioning the hair. In the text hereinbelow, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Other subj ects and characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

The organosilicon compounds (a) used in the composition according to the invention are selected from organosilanes comprising one silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms. They must also comprise one or more basic chemical functions, and preferably only one basic chemical function. The basic chemical function may correspond to any function that gives the silicon compound a basic nature and is preferably an amine function such as a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. The silicon compounds according to the invention may optionally comprise other functions, for instance an acid function or a halogen function.

The organosilicon compound(s) (a) used in the composition according to the invention further comprise one or more hydro lysable or hydroxyl groups per mo lecule, and preferably at least two hydro lysable or hydroxyl groups per mo lecule. The hydro lysable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogen groups. They may also optionally comprise other chemical functions such as acid functions.

According to one particular embo diment, the organosilane(s) used in the composition according to the invention are selected from the compounds having formula (I) :

in which: R₄ represents a halogen or a group OR' or R'i;

R₅ represents a halogen or a group OR" or R'₂;

R₆ represents a halogen or a group OR'" or R'₃;

Ri, R₂, R₃, R', R", R'", R'i, R'₂ and R'₃ represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups, where Ri, R₂, R', R" and R'" may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R₄, R5 and R₆ denoting, respectively, OR', OR" and OR'", at least two of the groups R', R" and R'" being other than hydrogen.

Preferably, groups Ri, R₂, R', R'i, R'₂, R'₃, R" and R'" are selected from Ci-Ci₂ alkyl, C₆-Ci4 aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C₆-Ci₄)aryl and (C₆-Ci₄)aryl(Ci-C8)alkyl radicals.

According to another specific embodiment, the organosiloxane(s) used in the composition according to the invention is (are) selected from the compounds having formula (II):

in which:

Ri, R₂, R₃, R₅ and R₆ are defined as above;

R'₄ represents a halogen atom or an ORn group;

R₇ represents a halogen atom or an OR10 or R"i group;

R9 represents a halogen atom or an ORs, R"₂ or R₃NRiR₂ group;

R"i, R"₂, R8, Rio and Rn represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally bearing additional chemical groups, where the groups Rn, Rio and Rs may further represent a hydrogen atom; where at least one of the groups R₆, R7 and R9 denotes a halogen atom or a group OR'", OR₁₀ or ORs.

Preferably, groups R"i, R"₂, Rs or R₁₀ and Rn are selected from Ci-Ci₂ alkyl, C₆-Ci₄ aryl, (Ci-C8)alkyl(C6-Ci₄)aryl, and (C₆- Ci₄)aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl radicals.

In particular, the halogen atom is a chlorine atom.

The organic silicon compound(s) used in the composition according to the invention is (are) preferably organosilanes selected from the compounds having formula (III):

OR

/

H₂N(CH₂)— Si— OR

\

^0R (III)

in which radicals R, which may be identical or different, are selected from Ci-C₆, preferably Ci or C₂, alkyl radicals and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4.

Preferably, the silanes or siloxanes are water-soluble and even more preferentially soluble to a concentration of 2%, better still to a concentration of 5% and even better still to a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C ± 5°C and at atmospheric pressure. The term "soluble" means the formation of a single macroscopic phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, organosilicon compound (a) present in the composition according to the invention is 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane.

The organosilicon compound(s) (a) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention contains one or more amphoteric polymers comprising repetition of:

(i) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-typ e monomer, and

(iii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer,

Preferably, the units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer (i) o f the amphoteric polymer are units having the fo llowing structure (IV) :

in which :

- Ri denotes H or CH₃ ,

- P 2 is selected from an amino , dimethylamino , tert-butylamino , dodecylamino , or -NH-CH₂OH radical .

Preferably, the amphoteric polymer o f the invention only comprises repetition o f a single unit having formula (IV) .

The unit from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer having formula (IV) in which Ri denotes H and R₂ is an amino radical is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.

Equally preferably, the units from a (meth)acrylamido alkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer (ii) o f the amphoteric polymer are units having the following structure (V) :

in which : - R₃ denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R₄ denotes a (CH₂)_k group where k is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , and preferably from 2 to 4;

- R5 and R₆, and R₇, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate.

Among these units from a

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, those from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer are preferred, for which R₃ denotes a methyl radical, k is 3 , R₅ , R₆ and R₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y^" denotes a chloride anion.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymer o f the invention only comprises repetition o f a single unit having formula (V) .

Finally, units from an acid monomer of type (iii) (meth)acrylic acid o f the amphoteric polymer are preferentially selected from units having the formula (VI) :

in which:

- Rs denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a -NH-C(CH₃)₂-CH₂-S0₃H radical.

The preferred units having formulas (VI) correspond to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino 2-methyl propane sulphonic acid monomers.

Preferably, the unit from an acid monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type is that from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer(s) may be non- neutralized or partially neutralized or completely neutralized by an organic or inorganic base. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer o f the invention only comprises repetition o f a single unit having formula (VI) .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) comprises (comprise) at least 30 mo l% o f units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70 mo l% o f units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mo l% .

The content in units from a

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer may advantageously be as follows : from 10 to 60 mo l%, preferentially from 20 to 55 mo l% .

The content in units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer may advantageously be as fo llows : from 1 to 20 mo l%, preferentially from 5 to 15 mo l% .

According to one particularly preferred embodiment o f the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises :

- from 30 to 70 mo l% of units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mo l%,

- from 1 0 to 60 mo l%, preferentially from 20 to 55 mo l% of units from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

- from 1 to 20 mo l%, preferentially from 5 to 1 5 mo l% o f units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer.

Amphoteric polymer(s) according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different to the units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer as described hereinbefore.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) is (are) only constituted of units from (i) (meth)acrylamide-type monomers, (ii)

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomers and (iii) (meth)acrylic acid type-monomers. Mention may be made, as an example o f particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, o f acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, as "Po lyquaternium 53 " . Corresponding products are especially so ld as Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco .

The amphoteric polymer according to the invention may be prepared in the standard manner, by polymerisation from its various monomers, according to techniques known to the person skilled in the art and especially by free-radical polymerisation.

The amphoteric polymer(s) (b) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5 % by weight and better still from 0.05 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the quantity o f organosilicon compound(s) (a) and the quantity o f amphoteric polymer(s) (b) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 30 , more preferably from 1 to 25 and most preferably from 10 to 20.

According to a preferred embo diment, the composition o f the present invention additionally comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants .

The term " anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionisable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from C0₂H, C0₂ ^", S O₃H, S O₃ ^", O S O₃H , O S O3 ^", H2PO3 , HPO3 ^", P0₃ ^{2 "}, H2PO2 , HPCV, P0₂ ^{2 "}, POH and PO groups.

Mention may be made, as examples o f anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, o f alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-o lefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-(C i - C4)alkyl N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid salts, acyllactylates, D- galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salt forms o f all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups o f all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts o f C₆ - C24 alkyl monoesters o f polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates .

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcoho l salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples o f amino alcoho l salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethano lamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2- amino -2 -methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2 -amino -2 -methyl- 1 ,3 -propanedio l salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

The anionic surfactants that are optionally present may be mild anionic surfactants, i. e . anionic surfactants without a sulphate function. As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular o f the fo llowing compounds and salts thereo f, and also mixtures thereof:

polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids;

acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and

alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters .

Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, for instance carboxylic acid lauryl ether (4.5 OE) so ld, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao .

The anionic surfactants(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 % to 25 % by weight, preferably from 3 % to 20% by weight and more preferably from 4% to 15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group .

Mention may be made in particular o f (C₈ - C2o)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C8 - C20 alkyl)amido(C3 -8 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-C8 alkyl)sulphobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the structures (A l ) and (A2) below, respectively:

Ra-CONHCH₂CH₂- N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO-) (A l ) in which:

Ra represents a C 1 0 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl group or undecyl group

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

Ra' -CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (A2)

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX^*,

B' represents -(CH₂)z-Y' , with z = 1 or 2,

X^* represents the group -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ ' , -CH₂CH₂- COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ ' , or a hydrogen atom,

Y^* represents -COOH, -COOZ ' , the group -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z ' ,

Z ' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.

Ra' represents a C i o-C₃ o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra' - COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C _{1 7} group , and its iso form, or an unsaturated C _{1 7} group .

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way o f example, mention may be made o f the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name

Mirano l^® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made o f ( C 8-C₂oalkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C₈-C₂oalkyl)amido(C3-C₈alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) selected from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably varies within the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5%> to 10%> by weight and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially selected from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols or fatty acids, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C₆-24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C₆-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N(C_10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When they are present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the present invention particularly comprise salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include :

- those corresponding to the general formula (VII) below :

in which groups Rs to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms . The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, especially, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens .

The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C ₁ - C30 alkyl, C 1 - C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C₂ - C6)alkylene, C 1 - C30 alkylamide, (C _{1 2}-C₂₂)alkylamido(C₂ - C6)alkyl, (C i ₂-C₂₂)alkylacetate, C 1 - C30 hydroxyalkyl, X^" is an anion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C i - C4)alkyl sulphates, and (C i - C4)alkyl- or (C i - C4)alkylarylsulphonates .

Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (VII), on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, so ld under the name Ceraphyl^® 70 by Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium imidazoline salts, such as, for example, those having formula (VIII) below:

(VIII) in which:

Ri 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,

Ri 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

Ri 4 represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl group;

Ri 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C₄ alkyl group, X^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C i -C₄)sulphates, alkyl(C i -C₄)- or alkyl(C i -C₄)aryl- sulphonates.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture o f alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for examp le tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R1 5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is so ld, for example, as Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, particularly having formula (IX) below :

(IX) in which Ri₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interspersed with one or more oxygen atoms,

Ri₇ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH₂)3-N⁺(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),

Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R₂o and R₂1 , which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X^" is an anion selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl- or (Ci- C₄)alkylarylsulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, for instance those having following formula (X):

(X)

in which:

R₂₂ is selected from Ci-C₆ alkyl and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R₂3 is selected from: - the group R₂— c—

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27,

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is selected from:

o

- the group ¾— C—

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R29,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or

1,

r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

X^" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R₂5 is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂ g , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms .

Advantageously, R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂s , which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C_{2 1} hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C_{2 1} alkyl and alkenyl groups .

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C i -C₄)alkyl sulphate or a (C i -C₄)alkyl- or (C i - C₄)alkylaryl sulphonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (X) in which:

- R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group ,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2 ,

- R₂3 is selected from:

O

- the group R— c—

- methyl, ethyl or C i ₄-C₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups;

- a hydrogen atom,

- R₂5 is selected from: - the group ¾— C—

- a hydrogen atom,

- R₂4 , R26 and R₂8 , which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{1 3}-C _{1 7} hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{1 3}-C _{1 7} alkyl and alkenyl groups .

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds having formula (X), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or the methyl sulphate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, o f diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, o f monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, o f triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or o f monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereo f. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification o f triethano lamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethano lamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on fatty acid mixtures o f plant or animal origin, or by transesterification o f the methyl esters thereo f. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means o f an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate, methyl methanesulphonate, methyl /?ara-toluenesulphonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, so ld under the names

Dehyquart^® by Henkel, Stepanquat^® by Stepan, Noxamium^® by Ceca or Rewoquat^® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco . The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts .

Use may also be made o f the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80.

Use may be made o f behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride so ld by KAO as Quartamin BTC 13 1 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereo f, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, and mixtures thereo f.

When the composition contains one or more cationic surfactants, their content varies preferably from 0.05 % to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 to 5 % by weight, most preferably from 0.5 to 5 % by weight with respect to the total weight o f the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants, and one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Preferably, the total amount of surfactants in the composition according to the invention ranges from 3 % to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 5 % to 30% by weight and most preferably from 8 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic acids . The term "organic acid" means any non-polymeric organic compound comprising one or more acid functions selected from carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions.

Preferentially, the organic acid is not a surfactant.

Even more preferentially, the mo lecular weight of the organic acid is less than 250 and better still less than 200.

The organic acids may be amino acids .

The organic acid(s) are preferably selected from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glyco lic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid.

Even more preferentially, the organic acid(s) according to the invention are selected from among carboxylic acids and preferably a- hydroxylated carboxylic acids (AHAs) .

Most preferentially, the organic acid(s) used in the composition according to the invention are selected from lactic acid and citric acid, and preferably lactic acid.

In the composition, the organic acid may be in free or salt form.

The organic acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content, expressed as free acid, ranging from 0.0 1 % to 1 0% by weight, preferably ranging from 0. 1 % to 8% by weight and more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention generally comprises water or a mixture o f water and one or more cosmetically acceptable so lvents selected from C 1 - C 4 lower alcoho ls, such as ethano l, isopropanol, tert-butano l or n-butano l; polyo ls such as glycerol, propylene glyco l and polyethylene glyco ls; and mixtures thereo f.

The pH o f the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 1 1 , preferably from 5 to 1 0 and better still from 7 to 1 0. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more standard additives that are well-known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; C _{1 2}- C 30 fatty alcoho ls; ceramides; vo latile or nonvo latile silicones, modified optionally organo organic with such as quaternized or nonquaternized amino groups, or thio l groups; oily or waxy fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils such as a-o lefins or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot oil, camellina oil or liquid petroleum j elly; vitamins or provitamins; pH stabilizers, preservatives; and dyes.

The thickener(s) may be selected in particular from cellulo se- based thickeners, for examp le hydroxyethylcellulo se, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for examp le the hydroxypropyl guar so ld by Rhodia as Jaguar HP 105 , gums o f microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid homopolymers, for example Carbomer, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers so ld as Pemulen TR 1 or TR2 by Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28 , 33 , 44 or 46 by Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by Akzo .

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereo f such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging preferably from 0 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be transparent or translucent, i. e . these compositions allow a transmittance at 600 nm of greater than 85 %, better still greater than 90% and even better still greater than 94% . They may also be pearlized with compounds such as, for example, mono or distearates of ethylene glycol or polyethyleneglycol, distearyl ether or betacyclodextrin.

The compositions according to the invention may be, in a non- limiting manner, in the form o f shampoo, treatments to be applied as needed before and/or after a shampoo or colour treatment or a permanent wave, or colouring, bleaching, permanent wave, straightening or styling products .

In a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo .

In this case, it advantageously contains :

- one or more organosilicon compound(s) (a) as described hereinbefore,

- one or more amphoteric polymer(s) (b) as described hereinbefore,

- one or more anionic surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 3 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- as an option, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 0. 1 % to 15 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- as an option, one or more nonionic surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.

In a variant of this embodiment, the composition comprises at least one N-acyl N-alkyltaurate whose acyl group comprises from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.

In a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a haircare product.

In this case, it advantageously contains :

- one or more organosilicon compound(s) (a) as described hereinbefore, - one or more amphoteric polymer(s) (b) as described hereinbefore, and

- one or more cationic surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 0.05 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibres such as the hair, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above.

This application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation.

When the application of the composition is fo llowed by rinsing, the leave-on time o f the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10 seconds to 10 minutes .

Whether in rinse-out mode or leave-in mo de, the application o f the composition may take place in the presence or absence of heat. The heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or a flat iron. The heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used as shampoos for washing and conditioning hair.

The example that fo llows serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

Composition (A) according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts o f which are expressed as weight percentages o f active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

' so ld under the trade name Merquat 2003PR by Nalco ; ^so ld under the name Xiameter OFS EO l l Silane by Dow

Corning

^so ld under the trade name Hostapon CT Pate by Clariant ^ so ld under the trade name Dehyton AB 30 by Cognis

^ so ld under the trade name Kessco PEG 6000 by Italmatch Chemicals Arese The composition obtained is clear and stable over time, both at room temperature and at 45 °C .

Applied as a shampoo, composition (A) delivers particularly satisfactory, long-lasting styling effects that do not wash out quickly. This composition also gives fine hair mass and vo lume. For curly or very curly hair, this composition delivers good curl definition.

Finally, this composition delivers sheen and a very so ft feel, including to dry, damaged or sensitized hair.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic composition comprising :

(b) one or more amphoteric polymers comprising repetition o f:

(i) one or more units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,

(ii) one or more units from

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

(iii) one or more units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer,

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the basic chemical functions o f the organosilicon compound are selected from primary, secondary and tertiary amines .

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2 , characterized in that the hydro lysable groups in the organosilicon compound are selected from alkoxy, aryloxy and halogen groups .

4. Composition according to any one o f Claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that the organosilicon compounds(s) are selected from:

- the compounds having formula (I) :

in which:

R₄ represents a halogen or a group OR' or R' i ;

R₅ represents a halogen or a group OR" or R'₂ ;

R₆ represents a halogen or a group OR'" or R'₃ ; Ri, R₂, R₃, R', R", R'", R'i, R'2 and R'₃ represent, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups, where Ri, R₂, R', R" and R'" may further denote hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R₄, R5 and R₆ denoting, respectively, OR', OR" and OR'", at least two of the groups R', R" and R'" being other than hydrogen; and

the compounds having formula (II):

(Π) in which:

Ri, R₂, R₃, R₅ and R₆ are defined as above;

R'₄ represents a halogen atom or an ORn group;

R₇ represents a halogen atom or an OR₁₀ or R"i group;

R₉ represents a halogen atom or an ORs, R"₂ or R₃NRiR₂ group;

R"i, R"₂, R8, Rio and Rn represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group optionally bearing additional chemical groups, where groups Rn, Rio and Rs may further represent a hydrogen atom; at least one of the groups R₆, R7 and R₉ denoting a halogen atom or a group OR'", OR₁₀ or ORs;

in formulas (I) and (II) hereinbefore, groups Ri, R₂, R', R'i, R'₂, R'₃, R", R'", R"i, R"₂, R₈, Rio and Rn being preferably selected from C₁-C₁₂ alkyl, C₆-Ci4 aryl, (Ci-C₈)alkyl(C₆-Ci₄)aryl, and (C₆- Ci₄)aryl(Ci-Cs)alkyl radicals.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilicon compound(s) is (are) selected from the compounds having formula (III): OR

/

H₂N(CH₂)— Si— OR

\

OR (III)

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilicon compound is 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilicon compound(s) (a) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units having the following structure (IV):

in which:

- Ri denotes H or CH₃,

- R₂ is selected from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH₂OH radicals,

and are preferably from acrylamide.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units from a

(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer in the amphoteric polymer are units having the following structure (V):

in which:

- R₃ denotes H or CH₃ ,

- Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate,

and are preferably from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer in the amphoteric polymer are selected from units having the formula (VI) :

in which:

- Rs denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an -NH-C(CH₃)₂-CH₂-S0₃H radical, and are preferably from acrylic acid.

1 1 . Composition as claimed in any one o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises : - from 30 to 70 mol%, preferentially from 40 to 60 mol% of units from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,

- from 10 to 60 mol%, preferentially from 20 to 55 mol% of units from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and

- from 1 to 20 mol%, preferentially from 5 to 15 mol% of units from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the quantity of organosilicon compound(s) (a) and the quantity of amphoteric polymer(s) (b) ranges from 0.5 to 30, more preferably from 1 to 25 and most preferably from 10 to 20.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

15. Composition according to the previous claim, characterized in that it comprises one or more anionic surfactants in a content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-(Ci-C4)alkyl N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid salts, acyllactylates, D- galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salt forms of these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

16. Composition according to either of Claims 14 and 15, characterized in that it comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants with a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5%> to 10%> by weight, even better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably selected from (C8-2oalkyl)betaines, (C8-2oalkyl)amido(C3- salkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.

17. Use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, as a shampoo for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibres.