WO2012175677A2

WO2012175677A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular amphoteric polymer and one particular anionic surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2012175677A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/062094
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sabrina Meralli; Benjamin CHARDIN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-06-23
Filing date: 2012-06-22
Publication date: 2012-12-27
Also published as: WO2012175677A3; FR2976803B1; FR2976803A1

Abstract

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising -one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, (ii) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and (iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type, -one or more anionic surfactants of formula (IV) below: R_a-X-Y-(CHR_b)n-(CH₂)m-Z (IV). It also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres using such a composition, and also to a cosmetic use for enhancing the manageability, smoothing and/or disentangling of hair.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular amphoteric polymer and one particular anionic surfactant

The present invention relates to a composition intended for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, more particularly o f human keratin fibres such as the hair, said composition comprising one or more particular amphoteric polymers and one or more particular anionic surfactants .

The present invention likewise relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres using such a composition, and also to a cosmetic use of the said composition.

In order to enhance the cosmetic properties o f care compositions for keratin fibres, such as those intended for application to sensitized hair (by which is meant hair which, generally, has been harmed or weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or straightening operations), it is known practice to introduce into these compositions cosmetic agents which are called conditioning agents and whose primary aim is to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects caused by the various treatments or exposures to which the hair fibres are subj ect more or less repeatedly. These conditioning agents may o f course also enhance the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.

Accordingly, users whose hair is co loured or damaged o ften resort to hair care treatments, and more particularly to treating shampoos which combine a silicone and a cationic polymer. These treating shampoos have the advantage of washing the hair, like any conventional shampoo, while giving it conditioning properties, which are particularly desirable for the treatment of sensitized hair. Moreover, these products are used frequently by users and do not require a supplementary treatment step, which may be found to be tedious or inconvenient in certain cases.

These shampoos which combine a silicone and a cationic polymer give a sensation o f fluidity and lightness, this sensation being due in particular to the use o f the silicones. Conversely, fo llowing repeated use o f this type o f shampoo, a build-up effect may come about, depending on the cationic polymer employed and on its concentration within the shampoo . This build-up effect is due to the successive deposition o f the conditioning agent on the fibres, without the previously deposited agent being properly removed. Accordingly, the deposition o f the conditioning agent then becomes thicker and thicker, and leads to lankness on the part of the fibres .

These users therefore desire this fluid effect without a lankness effect as applications progress. Also desired is a sensation o f regularity in the resultant cosmetic feel, especially a homogeneity from the root to the tip o f the fibre.

Moreover, as well as the conditioning effect, users desire shampoos which are less aggressive both for the keratin fibre itself and for the co louring. It has been observed that shampoos based on sulphate surfactants, while being very good detergent surfactants, show little respect for the substances to be washed.

However, it has been found that shampoos which are devoid o f anionic surfactants o f sulphate type lead to foams whose sensory qualities lack satisfaction.

Accordingly, there is a desire for cosmetic compositions combining satisfactory use qualities, particularly in terms of foam, with good cosmetic properties towards the fibres to be treated, in terms of conditioning.

A need therefore exists to develop cosmetic compositions which allow the hair to be conditioned satisfactorily, and especially to be endowed with good properties in terms o f lightness, smoothing, shine, feel and disentangling, without the fibres becoming lank fo llowing the repeated use o f the composition, said composition not containing anionic surfactants o f sulphate type, but leading to foams of good quality.

The applicant company has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination o f a particular amphoteric polymer and a particular anionic surfactant makes it possible to attain the obj ectives set above, and to do so, in particular, on fibres with little to substantial sensitization.

Homogeneous cosmetic effects have been obtained on the fibres, without a build-up effect in superposition. Great ease of styling of the hair, and a foam with a good sensorial quality, have been observed.

The present invention accordingly provides a cosmetic composition comprising

- one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,

(ii) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and

(iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type, and

- one or more anionic surfactants of formula (IV) below:

R_a-X-Y-(CHR_b)n-(CH₂)m-Z

(IV)

in which

R_a denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

X denotes CO or O,

Y denotes CO or NR_C, with R_c representing H or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

R_b denotes a group C0₂M,

n is 0 or 1 ,

m is 1 or 2,

Z denotes a group C0₂M or S O₃M, with the proviso that if Z denotes C0₂M, then n is 1 ,

M denotes H, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation obtained from an amine.

The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially human keratin fibres such as the hair, said method comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may be rinsed o ff or not, and applied under the effect of heat or in its absence.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for the washing and conditioning o f hair, or as hair care products .

The present invention also provides for the use of the composition according to the invention for enhancing the manageability, smoothing and/or disentangling of hair.

Other obj ects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from a reading o f the description and examples which follow.

In the text below, in the absence o f any indication to the contrary, the end points of a range of values are included in that range, especially in the expressions "of between" and "of from ... to

In the text below, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Amphoteric polymer

The composition according to the present invention contains one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,

(ii) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamido- alkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and

(iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type.

The units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer (i) in the amphoteric polymer are preferably units of structure (I) below :

in which:

- Ri denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R₂ is selected from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino , dodecylamino or -NH-CH₂OH radical.

The amphoteric polymer o f the invention preferably comprises the repetition o f only a single unit of formula (I) .

The unit obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer o f formula (I) in which Ri denotes H and R₂ is an amino radical is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the monomer acrylamide.

Likewise with preference, the units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer (ii) in the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (II) below:

in which:

- R₃ denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R₄ denotes a group (CH₂)_k where k is an integer from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4 ;

- R5 and R₆, and R₇, which are identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate. Among these units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium monomer, preference is given to those obtained from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R₃ denotes a methyl radical, k is 3 , R₅ , R₆ and R₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y^" denotes a chloride anion.

The amphoteric polymer o f the invention preferably comprises the repetition o f only a single unit of formula (II) .

Lastly, the units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) in the amphoteric polymer are preferably selected from the units of formula (III) :

in which:

- Rs denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R₉ denotes a hydroxyl radical or a -NH-C(CH₃)₂-CH₂-S0₃H radical.

The preferred units of formula (III) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methyl- propanesulphonic acid.

The unit obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type is preferably the unit obtained from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R₉ denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The acidic monomer or monomers o f (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or may be partly or totally neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.

The amphoteric polymer o f the invention preferably comprises the repetition o f only a single unit of formula (III) .

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers comprise at least 30 mo l% o f units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer. They preferably comprise from 30 to 70 mo l% o f units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mo l% .

The amounts of units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyl- trialkylammonium monomer may advantageously be as fo llows : from 10 to 60 mo l%, preferably from 20 to 55 mo l%.

The amounts o f units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type may advantageously be as fo llows : from 1 to 20 mo l%, preferably from 5 to 15 mo l% .

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises :

- from 30 to 70 mo l% o f units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mo l%,

- from 1 0 to 60 mo l%, preferably from 20 to 55 mo l% o f units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer; - from 1 to 20 mo l%, preferably from 5 to 15 mo l% o f units obtained from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.

The amphoteric polymer or polymers according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different from the units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, (meth)acrylamido- alkyltrialkylammonium monomer and (meth)acrylic acid monomer.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or po lymers are composed solely of units obtained from (meth)acrylamide monomers (i), (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkyl- ammonium monomers (ii) and (meth)acrylic acid monomers (iii) .

Examples o f particularly preferred amphoteric polymers include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are classed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are so ld in particular under the name Merquat 2003 or Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco .

The amphoteric polymer according to the invention may be prepared conventionally, by polymerization from its various monomers, by techniques which are known to the skilled person, and in particular by radical polymerization.

The amphoteric polymer or polymers are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.01 % and 5 % by weight and more particularly between 0.02%> and 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Particular anionic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants of formula (IV) :

R_a-X-Y-(CHR_b)n-(CH₂)m-Z

(IV)

in which

R_a denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

X denotes CO or O,

Rb denotes a group C0₂M,

n is 0 or 1 ,

m is 1 or 2,

The anionic surfactant of formula (IV) is preferably selected from taurates, sulphoacetates, glutamates and a mixture thereof.

These anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention are more particularly selected from salts o f alkylsulphoacetates, N-acyltaurates, N-alkyl- taurates, N-acylglutamates and N-alkylglutamates, the alkyl or acyl radical in these various compounds comprising preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, unless indicated otherwise in the formula (IV) .

When the anionic surfactant or surfactants are in salt form, they may be selected from the salts of alkali metals such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, from ammonium salts, from amine salts and in particular amino alcoho l salts, and the salts o f alkaline earth metals such as the magnesium salts.

The surfactant or surfactants according to the invention are preferably selected from N-acyl-N-alkyl(C i - C4)taurates .

More preferably, sodium methylcocoyltaurate is used.

These particular anionic surfactants are generally present at from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25 % by weight, in particular from 4% to 25 % by weight and more particularly from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably free of anionic surfactant of sulphate type.

An anionic surfactant o f sulphate type in the sense o f the present invention encompasses surfactants comprising at least one anionic group or group which can be ionized to an anionic group, selected from sulphate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3^") .

Accordingly, the fo llowing anionic surfactants are not and may not be present in the composition according to the invention: salts o f alkyl sulphates, alkylamido sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkyl aryl ether sulphates and monoglyceride sulphates.

By free, in the sense o f the present invention, is meant a composition which does not comprise these anionic surfactants o f sulphate type or comprises less than 0. 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional surfactants

The composition according to the invention may also comprise additional surfactants, other than those cited above, and in particular one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants . The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or surfactants which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group. These include more particularly alkyl(C8-2o)betaines, sulphobetaines, (Cs-₂o alkyl)- amido(C3-8 alkyl)betaines or (Cs-₂o alkyl)amido(C6-8 alkyl)sulpho- betaines. The optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which can be used, as defined above, also include the compounds of respective structures (V) and (VI) below:

Ra-CONHCH₂CH₂- N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO-) (V) in which:

Ra represents a C₁₀-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

Ra'-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (VI)

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX^*,

B' represents -(CH₂)_Z-Y', where z = 1 or 2,

X^* represents the group -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ',

-CH₂CH₂-COOH or -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y' represents -COOH or -COOZ' or the group -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z' , and

Z' represents an ion obtained from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion obtained from an organic amine.

Ra' represents a Cio-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in linseed oil which has been hydrolysed, or an alkyl group, especially a C _{1 7} alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C _{1 7} group .

These compounds are classed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylampho- dipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroampho- dipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

An examp le is the cocoamphodiacetate so ld by the company

Rhodia under the trade name Mirano l® C2M concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, preference is given to using (Cs- 2 o alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cs- 2 o alkyl)amido( C 3 -8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereo f. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or surfactants are more preferably selected from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant or surfactants varies preferably from 0.05 % to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 % to 20% by weight and more preferably still from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise additional surfactants, other than those cited above, and in particular one or more anionic surfactants different from the anionic surfactants cited above, from anionic sulphate surfactants, from nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants .

The anionic surfactants other than those cited above are preferably selected from alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, alpha-o lefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates, alkylsulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide- sulphosuccinates, acylisethionates, alkylsulphosuccinamates and acylsarcosinates, the alkyl or acyl radical o f all o f these various compounds comprising preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; the salts o f alkyl monoesters and of po lyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, the salts o f D-galactoside-uronic acids, the salts o f alkyl ether carboxylic acids, the salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, the salts o f alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms o f all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all o f these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

The salts o f C₆ - C24 alkyl monoesters and o f po lyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected in particular from C₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates and C₆ - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates.

The ether groups o f the compounds above may more particularly be composed o f ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups, with an average number o f ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups which may be preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 1 0.

These additional anionic surfactants may be used in acid form or in the form of salts with an organic or inorganic base.

When the additional anionic surfactant or surfactants are in salt form, they may be selected from salts of alkali metals such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, salts o f amines and more particularly o f amino alcoho ls, or salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium salts .

Examples o f salts o f amino alcoho ls include in particular the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts o f mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, and the salts o f 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane.

It is preferred to use alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and more particularly the salts of sodium or of magnesium.

When they are present, the amount of the additional anionic surfactant or surfactants, different from the anionic surfactants according to the invention, may advantageously be from 0.01 % to 1 5 % by weight, preferably from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.

Examples o f nonionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178. They are selected more particularly from alcoho ls, alpha-dio ls, alkyl(C i_2 o)pheno ls or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number o f glycerol groups to be in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made o f condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcoho ls; polyethoxylated fatty amides having preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1 .5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters o f sorbitan having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters o f sucrose, fatty acid esters o f po lyethylene glyco l, (C₆ -24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C₆ -24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C _{1 0 - 1 4} alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C _{1 0- 1 4} acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When they are present, the amount of the nonionic surfactant or surfactants ranges preferably from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 % to 1 0% by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.

The cationic surfactant or surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Quaternary ammonium salts include in particular, for example : - those conforming to the general formula (VII) below:

in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene(C2-Ce), C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22) acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X^" is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4) sulphates, and alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VII), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethyl- ammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyl- trimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and benzyldimethylstearyl- ammonium chloride, or else, on the other hand, distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylammonium methosulphate or distearoylethylhydroxy- ethylammonium methosulphate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the Ceraphyl^® 70 name by the company Van Dyk.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (VIII) below:

(VIII) in which

Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to

30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids,

Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C4 alkyl group, and X^" is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C₄) sulphates, and alkyl(Ci-C₄)- or alkyl(Ci-C₄)aryl-sulphonates.

R12 and Ri3 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri₄ preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is for example sold under the Rewoquat^® W 75 name by the company Rewo.

- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IX) below:

R₁₆— N— (CH₂)₃— N— R 21 2X^~

R- R 20

(IX) in which Ri₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

Ri7 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH₂)3-N⁺(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),

Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R₂o and R₂1 , which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X^" is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4) sulphates and alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C₄)aryl-sulphonates, more particularly methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate.

Compounds of these kinds are, for example, Finquat CT-P from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (X) below:

(X) in which:

R₂₂ is selected from Ci-C₆ alkyl groups and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R₂3 is selected from:

o

- the group R₂— c—

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₂₂ hydrocarbon groups R₂₇,

- hydrogen atom,

R₂5 is selected from: o

- the group ¾— C— ,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon groups R29,

- hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R₂8, which are identical or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups,

r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6,

rl and tl, which are identical or different, are 0 or 1,

r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t,

y is an integer from 1 to 10,

x and z, which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10,

X^" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, with the provisos that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0, R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

The sum x + y + z is advantageously from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are advantageously selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cn-C₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cn-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and more particularly are 2.

The anion X^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Ci-C4) sulphate or an alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulphonate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ester-functional ammonium.

The anion X^" is more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.

Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of ammonium salts of formula (X) in which:

- P22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are 1 ,

- z is 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are 2,

- P23 is selected from:

O

- the group R^— Q >

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,

- hydrogen atom,

- R25 is selected from:

o

- the group ¾— C— ,

- hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.

The compounds of formula (X) include, for example, salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulphate, of diacyloxyethyldimethyl- ammonium, o f diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of mono- acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, o f triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups have preferably 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains two or more acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification o f triethano lamine, of triisopropanolamine, o f alkyldiethano lamine or of alkyldiisopropanolamine, these amines being optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures o f fatty acids o f plant or animal origin, or by transesterification o f their methyl esters. This esterification is fo llowed by a quaternization by means o f an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulphate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulphate, methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Compounds o f these kinds are, for example, so ld under the names Dehyquart^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium^® by the company Ceca, Rewoquat^® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco .

The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137 1 80.

It is also possible to use the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, provided for example by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 1 3 1 .

The ammonium salts containing at least one ester function preferably contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants which are present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred more particularly to select cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethyl- ammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoyl- ethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the amount thereof ranges preferably from 0.05 % to 15 % by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5 % to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of surfactants in the composition according to the invention ranges preferably from 3 % to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5 % to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 8 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and comprises at least 30%> by weight of water, and preferably at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic so lvents which are liquid at ambient temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 1 .013 x 10⁵ Pa) . The liquid organic so lvent or so lvents are preferably selected from lower C 1 - C4 alcoho ls, such as ethano l, isopropanol, tert-butano l or n-butano l, polyols such as propylene glyco l, hexylene glyco l and glycerol, polyo l ethers, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition o f the invention is aqueous, or else contains an aqueous phase, its pH is generally between 2 and 9, and more particularly between 3 and 8. More preferably still, it ranges from 3 to 7.

It may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or alkalifying agents which are commonly used in cosmetology for this type of application, or else using conventional buffer systems .

Acidifying agents include organic acids or inorganic acids . An "inorganic acid" is any acid deriving from an inorganic compound. Inorganic acids include hydrochloric acid, ortho- phosphoric acid, sulphuric acid, sulphonic acids and nitric acid.

Among the organic acids, use may be made, for example, o f carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and malic acid, amino acids and sulphonic acids .

Among alkalifying agents, mention may be made, by way o f example, o f aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkano lamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and also derivatives thereo f, amino acids, sodium or potassium hydroxides, and the compounds o f the formula below :

in which W is a propylene residue which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 - C4 alkyl group, and R_a, Rb, R_c and Rd, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C4 alkyl or C 1 - C4 hydroxyalkyl group .

The agents for adjusting the pH may preferably be selected from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethano lamine, diethano lamine, triethano lamine, 1 ,3 -propanediamine, 2-amino-2- methyl- 1 -propanol, an alkali metal hydroxide, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, citric acid or lactic acid.

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more additives selected from ceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, vo latile or non-vo latile silicones, which are or are not modified with organic groups such as quaternized or non-quaternized amino groups or thiol groups, water-so luble and fat-so luble, siliconized or non-siliconized sunscreen agents, pearlizing agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, fatty alcoho ls, oily or waxy fatty esters, thickeners, so lubilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents which counter hair lo ss and/or promote hair growth, penetrants, fragrances, peptizing agents and preservatives, or any other additive conventionally used in the field o f cosmetology.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The skilled person will ensure that these optional additives and their amounts are selected such that they are not detrimental to the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may take the forms, without limitation, o f shampoos, of care products for application, where appropriate, before and/or after a shampoo or a co louring treatment or a permanent-waving treatment, co louring products, bleaching products, permanent-waving products, hair straightening products or hair styling products .

According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention takes the form of a shampoo .

In this case, it advantageously comprises :

- one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,

(iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer o f

(meth)acrylic acid type,

- one or more anionic surfactants o f formula (IV) described above,

the amount of anionic surfactants being greater than or equal to 4%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- optionally, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, in an amount of from 0. 1 % to 15 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - optionally, one or more nonionic surfactants, in an amount o f from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention takes the form of a hair care product.

In this case, it advantageously comprises :

- one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,

(iii) one or more units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type,

- one or more anionic surfactants o f formula (IV) described above;

- one or more cationic surfactants, in an amount of from 0.05 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In this embodiment, the concentration o f anionic surfactants is preferably less than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention likewise relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of hair, which comprises applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above.

This application may or may not be followed by a rinsing operation.

When the application o f the composition is fo llowed by a rinsing operation, the time for which the composition is left on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, more preferably from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, more preferably still from 1 0 seconds to 10 minutes.

Whether in rinsed mo de or in non-rinsed mode, application o f the composition may take place in the presence or absence of heat. The heating apparatus may be a hair dryer, a hood, curling tongs or hair straighteners . The heating temperature may be between 40°C and 220°C .

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for the washing and conditioning o f hair, or as hair care products.

The compositions according to the invention are used for enhancing the manageability, smoothing and/or disentangling of hair.

The examples which fo llow serve to illustrate the invention, but without being limitative in their nature .

EXAMPLES

In the examples below, all of the amounts are indicated as mass percentages o f active substance relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example of shampoos for sensitized hair

1 . Composition A

The fo llowing shampoo composition A of the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.

Concentration

Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ^{( 1 )} 6

Cocobetaine ⁽²⁾ 4.5

Polyquaternium-53 ^{( )} 0.2

PEG- 150 distearate ⁽⁴⁾ 0.25

Fragrance 0.5

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Sodium chloride 2.9

Glycero l 2

Salicylic acid 0.2

pH agent qs pH 5.3

Water qs 100 ' so ld under the trade name Hostapon CT PATE by the company Clariant

(2 ) so ld under the trade name Dehyton AB 30 by the company

Cognis

(3 ) so ld under the trade name Merquat 2003PR by the company

Nalco

' so ld under the trade name Kessco PEG 6000 by the company atch Chemicals Arese

2. Composition B

The fo llowing shampoo composition B of the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.

' so ld under the trade name Hostapon CT PATE by the company Clariant

(2 ) so ld under the trade name Dehyton AB 30 by the company

Cognis

' so ld under the trade name Kessco PEG 6000 by the company Italmatch Chemicals Arese

^ so ld under the trade name Merquat 2003PR by the company

Nalco

^ so ld under the trade name Xiameter OFS EO l l Silane by the company Dow Corning 3. Result

Compositions A and B lead to a good level o f cosmetic effect, in terms o f smoothing and disentangling, without the sensation o f an effect of lankness .

Furthermore, the sensorial qualities o f the foams obtained are not adversely affected.

Claims

1 . Cosmetic composition comprising

- one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:

(i) one or more units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,

- one or more anionic surfactants of formula (IV) below :

R_a-X-Y-(CHR_b)n-(CH₂)m-Z

(IV)

in which

R_a denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

X denotes CO or O,

R_b denotes a group C0₂M,

n is 0 or 1 ,

m is 1 or 2,

Z denotes a group C0₂M or S0₃M, with the proviso that if Z denotes C0₂M, then n is 1 ,

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises from 30 to 70 mo l% of units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer, from 10 to 60 mo l% o f units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer and from 1 to 20 mo l% o f units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type.

3. Composition according to either o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the units obtained from a (meth)acrylamide monomer in the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (I) below:

in which:

- Ri denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R₂ is selected from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino , dodecylamino or -NH-CH₂OH radical,

and are preferably obtained from acrylamide.

4. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the units obtained from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer in the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (II) below:

in which:

- R₃ denotes H or CH₃ ,

- Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate,

and are preferably obtained from methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride.

5. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the units obtained from an acidic monomer o f (meth)acrylic acid type in the amphoteric polymer are selected from the units of formula (III) :

in which:

- Rs denotes H or CH₃ ,

- R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a -NH-C(CH₃)₂-CH₂-S0₃H radical, and are preferably obtained from acrylic acid.

6. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises the units obtained from the fo llowing monomers : (i) acrylamide, (ii) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and (iii) acrylic acid.

7. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.01 % and 5 % by weight and more particularly between 0.02% and 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant of formula (IV) is selected from taurates, sulphoacetates, glutamates and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant of formula (IV) is selected from salts o f alkylsulphoacetates, of N-acyl-N-alkyl(C i - C 4)taurates, N-acyl- glutamates and N-alkylglutamates, the alkyl or acyl radical in these various compounds comprising preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms .

10. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant of formula (IV) is present in the composition in an amount of between 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25 % by weight, in particular from 4% to 25 % by weight and more particularly from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.05 % to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 % to 20% by weight and more preferably still from 1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any o f the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants different from those defined in Claims 1 , 8 and 9 and from anionic sulphate surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants .

14. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it does not comprise an anionic sulphate surfactant.

15. Method for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, especially human keratin fibres such as the hair, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any o f Claims 1 to 14, then carrying out or not a rinsing operation after an optional leave-on time, in the presence or absence of heat.

16. Use of a composition according to any of C laims 1 to 14 as a shampoo for the cleansing and conditioning o f keratin fibres.

17. Use according to Claim 16, for enhancing the manageability, smoothing and/or disentangling of hair.