WO2012038538A1

WO2012038538A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one quaternary ammonium ester and at least one soluble salt of divalent metals, and process using the said composition

Info

Publication number: WO2012038538A1
Application number: PCT/EP2011/066603
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Sophie Albert; Samira Khenniche; Isabelle Rollat-Corvol
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-09-24
Filing date: 2011-09-23
Publication date: 2012-03-29
Also published as: FR2965175B1; FR2965175A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising : - one or more quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, and - one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metal s in a total content of at least 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said cosmetic composition, and - an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention al so relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, and al so to a use employing the said cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one quaternary ammonium ester and at least one soluble salt of divalent metals, and process using the said composition The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, compri sing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more ammonium salts compri sing one or more ester functions, one or more salts of divalent metal s in a content of at least 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention al so relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, and al so to a use employing the said cosmetic composition.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and al so by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.

Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends . Moreover, high relative humidity of the air al so usually leads to swelling of the head of hair and to the appearance of frizziness, which makes the head of hair increasingly difficult to manage.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it i s common practice to resort to haircare products using compositions that condition the hair appropriately, giving it sati sfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good di sentangling properties, while at the same time being capable of controlling the volume given to the head of hair.

These haircare compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gel s, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick. These compositions may compri se silicones, which are used as conditioning agents, so as to give the hair a sati sfactory level of care and to control the volume of the head of hair.

However, silicones often have the drawback of making the hair very lank and heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly known as the "build-up effect" . In other words, silicones become deposited in a large amount of material on the hair, which has the consequence of making the head of hair lank and of limiting the use of silicones for conditioning the hair.

Moreover, it i s al so known practice in the care field to use other cosmetic compositions .

Thus, international patent application WO 95/01 1 52 describ es a conditioning shampoo composition comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterioni c surfactants, at least one non-volatile conditioning agent chosen from insoluble silicones, water-soluble organic cationic compounds such as cationic surfactants and cationic polymers, and salts of polyvalent cationic metal s.

Similarly, Japanese patent application JP 2003/095 891 describes a rinse-out hair composition intended to be used as a hair conditioner, containing at least one long-chain fatty alcohol, a quaternary ammonium salt bearing at least one chain formed from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a water-soluble organic or inorganic salt, the pH of the composition at 30° C being between 5 and 6.5.

Japanese patent application JP 2000/ 191 5 14 concerns a composition for cl eansing sebum, the surface tension of which, relative to oleic acid at 25 °C, ranges from 0 to 0.05 mN/m, containing a mineral salt, a nonionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant.

In the field of cosmetic skincare, Japanese patent application JP 2002471 19 relates to a cleansing and moi sturizing cosmetic composition containing Mg²⁺ and Ca²⁺ ions, the ratio [Mg]/[Ca] being between 0.2 and 3 .6 and the total amount of Ca and Mg ions being from 0.052 to 4.2 mol/L. Finally, Japanese patent application JP 01233208 concerns a treatment composition containing water-soluble sub stances such as inorganic salts, which create insoluble sub stances within the hair.

It has been ob served that none of these compositions can give entirely sati sfactory conditioning and control of the volume of a head hair.

There i s thus a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, for exampl e conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, that do not have the combination of drawbacks described above, i . e. which are capable of conditioning the hair, especially by affording it softness, uniformity, sheen, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good capacity to be straightened, while at the same time controlling the volume given to the head hair, irrespective of the degree of hygrometry.

The Applicant has di scovered, surpri singly, that it i s possible to formulate compositions for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, whi ch have the desired properties, by combining in these compositions one or more quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions and one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metal s, in a particular content.

Specifically, it has been found that such a combination can give keratin fibres, and more particularly the hair, improved cosmetic properties especially as regards the level of sheen, the smoothness, the suppleness, the lightness, the feel, the uniformity and the fineness, while at the same time controlling the volume of the hair.

In particular, on wet hair, smoother, more supple, finer hair i s especially obtained. In addition, once dried, hair treated with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention i s especially smoother, shinier, finer and lighter, and has a more silky feel .

Moreover, the compositions according to the invention lead to better control of the swelling of the head of hair at various rel ative humidities, ranging in particular from 20% to 80%, which enables the hairstyle to remain in place more easily, allows better control of the volume of the hair and greatly reduces the frizziness . Thus, the compositions according to the invention facilitate the shaping of hair.

The compositions according to the invention make it possibl e, for example, to control the volume of the head of hair in a humid climate on natural to sensitized hair, which may be frizzy, over a period of more than 24 hours, while at the same time maintaining a natural appearance and a sati sfactory feel.

The term "relative humidity " represents the measurement of the amount of water in the air. Thi s measurement i s taken using a machine such as a psychrometer or a capacitive-probe hygrometer, and i s defined by the ratio of the pressure exerted by the water vapour contained in the air at a given temperature to the saturating vapour pressure (i . e . the maximum amount of water vapour that thi s air could ab sorb at thi s temperature) . It i s given as a percentage on a scale ranging from 0 to 1 00% .

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention lead to satisfactory coating of the hair, especially to uniform coating over the entire fibre.

The compositions according to the invention are al so stable on storage, both at room temperature (20-25 °C) and at 45 °C, especially as regards their vi sual aspect and their vi scosity.

The cosmetic compositions thus obtained al so have good working properties, i . e . these compositi ons can b e rinsed out easily and be spread more easily over the entire head of hair.

Finally, hair treated with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention al so dries more quickly.

The present invention relates especially to a cosmetic composition especially for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising :

- one or more quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, and

- one or more water-soluble salts of dival ent metal s in a total content of at least 1 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said cosmetic composition, and - an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating the hair, comprising the application to the said fibres of the composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a shampoo or as a hair conditioner, preferably as a hair conditioner.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

The quaternary ammonium salt(s) containing one or more ester functions may be chosen from the ammonium salts of formula (I) below:

in which:

R-₂₂ is chosen from Ci-C₆ alkyl and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R-23 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical -_>6— C—

- radicals R₂₇, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R_2S— C— - radicals R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

ri or ti = 0 or 1,

r₂ + ri = 2r,

t₂ + ti = 2t,

X^" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇ and that when z is 0, then R₂₅ denotes R₂g.

The alkyl radicals R₂₂ may be linear or branched, but more particularly linear.

R₂₂ preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂₇, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R₂g, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₂₄, R₂₆ and R₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated

C₁₁-C₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X^" is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate or tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ester-functional ammonium.

The anion X^" is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (I) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

- z is equal to 0 or 1;

- r, s and t are equal to 2;

- R-23 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R₂₆— C—

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- a hydrogen atom;

- R25 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R_2§— —

- a hydrogen atom;

- R24, 26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

The hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear. Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (I) such as diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, di acyloxyethyl- hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium, mo no acyloxy ethyl di hydroxy ethyl- methyl ammonium, triacyloxy ethyl methyl ammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium salts (chl oride or methyl sulfate, in particular) and mixtures thereof. The acyl radical s preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carb on atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radical s, these radical s may b e identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, trii sopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldii sopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of pl ant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. Thi s esterification i s followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart^® by Henkel, Stepanquat^® by Stepan, Noxamium^® by Ceca or Rewoquat^® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight maj ority of diester salts.

Examples of mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 1 5% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5%) to 30%> of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radical s containing from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and being derived from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated. It i s al so possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80.

Preferably, the ammonium salt(s) containing one or more ester functions are chosen from dipalmitoylethylhydroxy- ethylmethylammonium salts, in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxy- ethyl methyl ammonium met ho sulfate.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin B TC 13 1 .

The quaternary ammonium salt(s) containing one or more ester functions used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention al so contains one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metal s in a total content of at least 1 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water- soluble salt " means a salt with a solubility of greater than or equal to 20 g/litre (g/L) in water measured at 20°C, preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 100 g/L and even more preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 300 g/L .

In particular, the salts of divalent metals preferably have a solubility in water measured at 20°C ranging from 30 to 45 000 g/L .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " salts of divalent metal s" means salts of elements from column IIA of the Periodic Table (Merck Index 12th edition), in particular calcium, magnesium, strontium, manganese, copper, iron, titanium, zinc and cerium.

The salt(s) of divalent metal s are preferably hydrated salts. Preferentially, the salt(s) of divalent metal s used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromide, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, strontium chloride, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenol sulfonate, calcium thiosulfate, calcium nitrate and calcium acetate, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the salt of a divalent metal used in the composition according to the invention i s calcium chloride, calcium lactate or calcium acetate, or mixtures thereof.

The salt(s) of divalent metal s used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from inorganic salts of divalent metal s and more preferentially from inorganic calcium salts.

Even more preferentially, the salt of a divalent metal used in the composition according to the invention i s calcium chloride, especially calcium chloride dihydrate.

The salt(s) of dival ent metal s used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably present in a content ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 1 .75% to 20% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 2% to 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention compri ses one or more quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions chosen from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and a mixture containing 1 5% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethyl- ammonium methyl sulfate, 45 % to 60% by weight of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5% to 30% by weight of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radical s containing from 14 to 1 8 carb on atoms and originating from optionally partially hydrogenated palm oil and one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metals in a total content of at least 1 .5% by weight, chosen from calcium chloride and calcium acetate, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the cosmetic composition according to the invention compri ses one or more quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions chosen from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, in particul ar dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate and one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metals in a total content of at least 1 .5% by weight, chosen from calcium chloride.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more silicones.

The silicone(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particul ar polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i . e . di ssolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emul sions . The polyorganosiloxanes may al so be in the form of oil s, waxes, resins or gums .

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press.

The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.

These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sol d especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhone-Poulenc, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 71 58 by Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhone-Poulenc, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may al so be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl- siloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3 109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure (II) with the subunits D' and D" of structures (III) and (IV) :

(II)

with D" : ^— Si - O— with D' : - Si - G—

CH₃ C₃H,₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo- tetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethyl- silyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10^"6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .

Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C and preferably lxlO^"5 to 1 m²/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by Rhone-Poulenc, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; - the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhone- Poulenc;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt (centistokes);

- the Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhone- Poulenc.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl aminopropyl and α,ω-silanol groups.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO^"5 to 5xl0^"2m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione oils of the 70641 series from Rhone-Poulenc;

- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from Rhone- Poulenc;

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product

PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of b etween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) oil s, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) oil s, i soparaffins, polyi sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products :

- polydimethyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums,

- poly [(dimethyl siloxane)/(vinylhydrogenosiloxane)] gums,

- poly [(dimethyl siloxane)/(divinylhydrogenosiloxane)] gums, - polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/phenylmethyl siloxane gums,

- polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane/methylvinyl siloxane gums.

Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures :

- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain (known as dimethi conol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 140 1 sold by the company Dow Corning;

- mixtures formed from a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 12 14 Sili cone Fluid from the company General Electric, thi s product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecul ar weight of 500 000, di ssolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- mixtures of two PDMS s with different vi scosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 x 10^"6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R₃Si0₁/₂, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are the ones in which R denotes a C₁-C₄ lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.

Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxy silicate type resins sold especially under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21- 5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly(methyl-lauryl/methylsiloxane) sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning (INCI: Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone), the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q25200; - thiol group s, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85/ 16334;

- acyloxyalkyl group s, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anionic group s of the phosphate or carb oxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 1 86 507 from the company Chi sso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255 ;

hydroxyacylamino groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may al so be made of amino silicones.

The term "amino silicone" means any polyamino siloxane, i . e . any polysiloxane compri sing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (V) below:

(V)

in which : T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -C₈ alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or a C i -C₈ alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,

b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R¹ i s a monovalent radi cal of formul a -C_qH_{2 q}L in which q i s a number from 2 to 8 and L i s an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N(R²)₂ ;

-N(R²)₂; -N⁺(R²)₃ Q^";

-N⁺(R²) (H)₂ Q^";

-N⁺(R²)₂HQ^";

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(R²)(H)₂ Q^",

in which R² denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl , a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C ₁ -C₂0 alkyl radical, and Q^" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (V) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VI) below :

NhL

(VI) in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, preferably CH₃; a C₁-C₄ alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C₃-C₈ and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene radical; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C₃ alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones" .

According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C₃ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by Wacker. According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, represent a C₁-C₄ alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A represents a C₃ alkylene radical. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid

WR® 1300 sold by Wacker.

According to a fourth possibility, R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A is a C4-C8 and preferably C₄ alkylene radical. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.

A product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow Corning.

Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; μ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/m; 200 μΐ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (V) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary (7th edition, 1997) as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VII) below: (CH₃)₃

NH

(VII) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (V) or (VI).

Such compounds are described, for example, in EP 0095 238; a compound of formula (VII) is sold, for example, under the name Q2- 8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (VIII) below:

R—

(VIII) in which:

, 3

R^J represents a Ci-Ci₈ monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a Ci-Ci₈ alkyl or C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

R⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Ci₈ alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Ci₈, and for example Ci-C₈, alkylenoxy radical;

Q^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride;

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US- 4 185087.

A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.

(c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

in which:

R-7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C₁-C₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-C₈, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical or a radical -R.6-NHCOR7;

X^" is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); ;

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.

(d) the amino silicones of the following formula:

(C_mH_2m)

NH₂

in which:

- Ri, R-2, R₃ and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R₅ denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

The silicone(s) that are particularly preferred are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as the silicones of formula (VI) or the silicones of formula (VII).

When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.

By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 929 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (X):

in which R denotes C14-C22 alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the CTFA name "tallowtrimonium chloride", in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula:

C₉H₁₉-C₆H₄-(OC₂H₄)₁₀-OH, known under the CTFA name "Nonoxynol 10".

Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₁₃H₂₇-(OC₂H₄)₁₂-OH, known under the CTFA name "trideceth-12".

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (C) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C₈H₁₇-C₆H₄-(OCH₂CH₂)₄₀OH, known under the CTFA name "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci₂H₂5-(OCH₂-CH₂)6-OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.

Among all the silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred to choose the silicone(s) from among non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino silicones, and silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from amino silicones.

The silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of silicones.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more non-silicone fatty sub stances.

The term "fatty sub stance" means an organic compound that i s insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1 % and even more preferentially 0. 1 %). In addition, the fatty sub stances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum j elly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty sub stance(s) are chosen from fatty alcohol s, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohol s other than triglycerides, and non-silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oil s other than the abovementioned esters.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkyl or a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkenyl group . R may be sub stituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups .

Examples that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl al cohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexi st, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product. Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25°C" means a fatty alcohol that has a viscosity, measured with a rheometer (for example an R600 rheometer) at a shear rate of 1 s^"1, of greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are cetylstearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

The fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group and better still a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.

The fatty acid may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid and stearic acid.

In order to be considered as a fatty acid, the fatty acid must not be in soap form, i.e. it must not be salified.

As non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®;

- partially hydrocarbon-based fluoro oils; fluoro oils that may also be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC 1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C₂6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2- ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myri states such as i sopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of thi s variant, esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcohol s and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 - C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol s may al so be used.

Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; dii sopropyl sebacate; dii sopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dii sostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetrai sostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; trii sopropyl citrate; trii sostearyl citrate; glyceryl tril actate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii sononanoate; and polyethylene glycol di stearates .

Among the esters mentioned above, it i s preferred to use ethyl, i sopropyl, myri styl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,

2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myri states such as i sopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may al so compri se, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids . It is recalled that the term " sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which compri se at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylo se and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group compri sing the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 - C30, and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conj ugated or unconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to thi s variant may al so be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myri states, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters .

More particularly, use i s made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates .

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® D O by the company Amerchol, which i s a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid that may al so be mentioned include :

- the products sold under the names F 160, F 140, F l l O, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, tri ester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate; - the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;

- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft^® PSE.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from fatty alcohols.

The fatty substance(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from C0₂H, C0₂ ^", SO₃H, SO₃ ^", OSO₃H, OSO3^", H₂P0₃, HPO3^", P0₃ ^2", H₂P0₂, HP0₂, HP0₂ ^", P0₂ ^", POH and PO^" groups.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non- salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C₆ -24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C₆ -24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C₆ -24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆ -24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .

When the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially b e mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or trii sopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- l , 3 -propanediol salts and tri s(hydroxy- methyl)aminomethane salts .

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among the anioni c surfactants, it i s preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the amount of the anioni c surfactant(s) i s preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 50% by weight, better still from 1 % to 30% by weight and even better still from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferentially, the cosmetic composition does not contain any anionic surfactants .

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, publi shed by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 1 78. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxy related fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C₆-24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C₆-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (CioCi4)alkylamine oxides or N(C_10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

When they are present, the amount of the additional nonionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈-C2o alkyl)amido(C3-₈ alkyl)betaines and (C₈-C2o alkyl)amido(C6-C₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2) below: R_a-CONHCH₂CH₂- N⁺(R_b)(R_c)(CH₂COO^") (Al) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and

R_a'-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (A2) in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX',

B' represents -(CH₂)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X' represents the group -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ', -CH₂CH₂- COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y* represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.

Ra' represents a Cio-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C₁₇ group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol^® C2M Concentrate .

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned ab ove that are preferably used are (C₈ -2o alkyl)betaines and (C_{8 -}2o alkyl)amido(C6 -₈ alkyl)b etaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) i s preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention preferably compri se a cosmetically acceptable medium .

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratin material s, especially keratin fibres such as the hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium i s formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C ₁ -C₄ lower alcohol s, such as ethanol, i sopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyol s such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol s; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention compri ses an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention i s less than or equal to 95% and preferentially less than or equal to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The organic solvents may be present in a concentration ranging from 0. 1 % to 40% and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 1 1 . The composition according to the invention may al so comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; ceramides or pseudoceramides; sequestrants; solubilizers; proteins; reducing agents or antioxi dants; oxidizing agents; vitamins or provitamins; cationic or amphoteri c polymers; fragrances; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; and permanent or temporary dyes such as natural or synthetic direct dyes (base or coupler), or mixtures thereof.

The thickener(s) may be chosen from cellulo se-based thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulo se, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulo se, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for example the hydroxypropyl guar sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105 , gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for example Carb omer, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the name s Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33 , 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T2 12 by the company Akzo.

In particular, the thickener(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from cellulose- based thickeners, in particular hydroxyalkylcellul oses. Preferably, the thickener(s) are chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, for example as shampoos or hair conditioners .

Preferably, the compositions of the invention are rinse-out or leave-in, preferably rinse-out, hair conditi oners.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of creams, gel s or lotions .

A subj ect of the invention al so consi sts of the use of the cosmetic composition as described above for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres such as the hair.

Another subj ect of the present invention i s a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, which consi sts in applying an effective amount of a composition as described ab ove to the sai d fibres, and optionally in rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time.

In particular, 0.5 to 50 g and preferentially 1 to 30 g of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres.

The compositions described above may be used on any type of hair: light or dark hair, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry hair. Preferably, the cosmeti c composition i s applied to clean hair.

Moreover, the leave-on time of the cosmetic composition on the hair may be between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 seconds and 1 5 minutes and even more preferentially between 1 minute and 10 minutes .

The application to the hair of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers .

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the application of the composition is followed by drying at room temperature or at a temperature above 40°C . The drying may be performed immediately after the application or after a leave-on time that may range from 1 minute to 30 minutes .

Preferably, the hair i s dried, in addition to using a supply of heat, with a flow of air. Thi s flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the coating.

During drying, a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair.

The drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hair dryer or a straightening iron.

When the drying step i s performed with a hood or a hair dryer, the drying temperature i s between 40 and 1 10° and preferably between 50 and 90° .

When the drying step i s performed with a straightening iron, the drying temperature i s between 1 1 0 and 220° and preferably between 130 and 200° .

The examples below are given as illustrations of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

1 . Test compositions

A composition (A) according to the invention and a comparative composition (B) are prepared from the ingredient s indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

It i s found that composition (A) according to the invention has a creamy, white, glo ssy, uniform appearance and i s stable on storage. 2. Procedure :

On a panel of 20 women formed from 10 women with natural hair and 1 0 women with sensitized hair, 6 to 10 g of each of the compositions (A) and (B), as a function of the length of the hair, are applied to each half-head. The term " sensitized hair" means hair that has undergone prior chemical or physical treatments .

After application, the hair i s rinsed, combed and then dried by blow-drying or in the open air.

In the course of thi s procedure, it i s found that composition (A) according to the invention is easy to apply and to rinse out.

3 . c. Evaluation of the cosmetic performance

A panel of experts then evaluated in half-head tests the cosmetic properties afforded by each of the cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) on wet hair and on dry hair.

The results are collated in the following table :

Locks treated Locks treated

Criteria with composition with comparative

(A) according to composition (B) the invention

Smoothness

Wet +++ +

hair

Suppleness + +

Sensation of ++ + having finer hair

Speed of drying +++ +

Smoothness +++ +

Sheen +++ +

Hair Silky feel +++ +

dry Sensation of ++ +

having finer hair

Lightness +++ +

It i s found that, on wet hair, hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention is smoother, more supple and its volume i s better controlled than in the case of hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition (B) .

Furthermore, it i s ob served that, after drying, hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention i s smoother, shinier, lighter and finer and has a silkier feel than in the case of hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition (B).

Moreover, the panel of experts al so finds that hair treated with cosmetic composition (A) according to the invention dries faster than in the case of the comparative composition (B) . 4. Evaluation of the volume of the hair

1 gram of each of the compositions (A) and (B) i s applied to wet locks of natural and sensitized hair (SA20), weighing 2.7 g each. After application, the locks are rinsed and dried with a hairdryer, before being suspended in a glove box pl aced at 75% relative humidity .

The volume of the locks i s then evaluated.

Ob servation of the volume of the locks at high humidity shows that composition (A) according to the invention afford better control of the volume of the locks than the comparative composition (B) at 75% relative humidity; in particular, a decrease in frizziness i s ob served.

Thi s result i s confirmed on heads in a humid climate on a panel formed by 20 women with natural hair and sensitized hair and having a variable degree of frizziness . The experts and the consumers ob serve that composition (A) according to the invention affords b etter control of the volume of the head hair under conditions of high relative humidity over a period of more than 24 hours.

It is al so found that the feel and the aspect, and in particular the volume of the head of hair, are not impaired over time. Example 2

1 . Composition tested

A composition (C) according to the invention i s prepared, the amounts of whi ch are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

On a panel of 20 women consi sting of 1 0 women with natural hair and 10 women with sensitized hair, thi s composition l eads to results similar to those obtained with composition A of Example 1 .

Example 3 Compositions (D), (E), (F) and (G) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of whi ch are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

Compositions D E F G

Myri styl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Hydroxy ethyl cellulo se 1 1 1 1

Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmet

hylammonium methosulfate at

30% active material in cetyl stearyl - 0.3 0.3 0.3 alcohol (Dehyquart F30 from

Cogni s)

Behenoyloxyhydroxypropyltrimeth

ylammonium chloride at 60%

active material in water (23%) and

hexylene glycol ( 17%) (Quartamin 0.9 - BTC 13 1 from Kao)

Calcium chloride dihydrate 5.5 - - -

Calcium gluconate - 8 - -

Calcium lactate - - 6 -

Calcium acetate - - - 4

Water qs qs qs qs

100% 100% 100% 100%

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition especially for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:

- one or more water-soluble salts of divalent metals in a total content of at least 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said cosmetic composition, and

- an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salt(s) comprising one or more ester functions are chosen from the ammonium salts of formula (I)

in which:

R-22 is chosen from linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyl radicals and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R.23 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R_?6— C—

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

O II

- the radical R₂s>— C— - radical s R29 , which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C i -C₆ hydrocarbon-based radical s,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24 , R26 and R₂8 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C_{2 1} hydrocarbon-based radical s;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0;

ri or ti = 0 or 1 , r₂ + n = 2r and t₂ + ti = 2t,

X^" i s a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

with the provi so that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5 , that when x i s 0, then R₂₃ denotes R₂₇ and that when z i s 0, then R₂₅ denotes R₂ g .

3 . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from diacyloxy ethyl dim ethyl ammonium, di acyloxy ethyl hydroxy ethyl methyl - ammonium, monoacyloxyethyldi hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl- dimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl- ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding cl aims, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salt(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from 1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt(s) of divalent metal s are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromi de, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, cal cium borogluconate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, strontium chloride, calcium l actate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenol sulfonate, calcium thio sulfate, calcium nitrate and calcium acetate, and mixtures thereof.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt(s) of divalent metal s are chosen from inorganic salts of divalent metal s and preferably from inorgani c calcium salts.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt of a divalent metal i s calcium chloride.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt(s) of divalent metal s are present in a content ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 .75% to 20% by weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from 2% to 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the said cosmetic composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it al so compri ses one or more silicones .

10. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the silicone(s) are chosen from amino silicones.

1 1 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it al so compri ses one or more non- silicone fatty sub stances chosen from fatty alcohol s, fatty esters, fatty acids and non- silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oils.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it al so compri ses one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants .

13 . Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, characterized in that an effective amount of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 i s applied to the said keratin fibres, and i s optionally rinsed out after an optional leave-on time.

14. Use of the composition according to any one of Claim s 1 to 12, for the conditioning of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

1 5. Use according to Claim 14, of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 14 to 12, as a hair conditioner.