FR2918878A1 - Use of natural moisturizing factor derived from degradation of filaggrin as a fragile lip protective agent and to prevent or treat e.g. discomfort, tingling feeling and/or pain - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of natural moisturizing factor (I) derived from degradation of filaggrin as a fragile lip protective agent, is claimed. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process for cosmetic treatment of fragile lips comprising the application of the composition on the lips comprising a natural moisturizing factor deriving from the filaggrin degradation; and (2) a composition for application to lip comprising the natural moisturizing factor in a physiologically acceptable medium.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of preventive protection

  and / or healing fragile lips. By fragile lips in the context of the present invention is meant lips that may be affected by a number of signs or disorders ranging from discomfort sensations to chapping, through sensations of tingling and tightness, the appearance of scales, dry patches, cracks or bleeding. These signs are more particularly located on the part of the lips called vermilion or red lips. Epidemiological studies of hundreds of women in Europe, Asia, and North America show that brittle lips are a common disorder. For example, it affects 67% of women in France and 54% of women in Japan. This disorder is felt as severe (very fragile lips) by 1 in 5 women in France and one in three women in Japan. The attached figure illustrates this area of vermilion and more generally the anatomy of the peri-labial region.

  The term lip covers in fact an anatomical region of the face referenced in the attached figure, delimited at the top by the nose 2, laterally by the nasolabial folds 4 and at the bottom by the tassel of the chin 3. It comprises the upper lip 9 and the lower lip 10. The upper lip and the lower lip unite at their two lateral ends to form the labial commissures 1.

  Three well-differentiated parts are also distinguished within this anatomical entity: - a part whose appearance is similar to that of the skin of the body. It is the white lips, - a part whose appearance is very different from the skin of the body, it is the red lips, also called vermilion, - an endoral part, mucous type.

  The white lips consist of a conventional cutaneous tissue, orthokeratinized, covered with an epidermis and a dermis provided with pilosebaceous follicles and eccrine sweat glands. The main function of conventional skin is to establish a protective barrier against environmental aggressions while allowing certain exchanges between the internal environment and the external environment. It consists of the interior towards the outside, by the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial layer of the skin, composed mainly of keratinocytes (90%). The differentiation of keratinocytes is accompanied by a set of morphological and biochemical transformations that lead to the formation of mature cells, the corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleate and flattened cells. They are detached on the surface of the skin according to a desquamation process. This desquamation when it is physiological is unapparent and does not give rise to the presence of visible scales on the surface of the skin. During their corneal maturation, the keratinocytes migrate from the depth to the surface of the epidermis, and form four epidermal layers: the basal layer (basal stratum), the spinous layer (stratum spinosum), the granular layer (stratum granulosum) , and the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer, composed of mature corneocytes. This layer builds the first line of defense of the epidermal barrier.

  Vermilion 6 has a very special structure, which is not comparable with the structure of conventional skin, in many ways. The vermilion area or red lips (lower 8 or higher 7) is a unique structure to homos sapiens. It is an intermediate zone between the orthokeratinized skin and the mucosa. It consists of a parakeratinized epithelium, that is to say with incomplete keratinization of corneocytes, some of which still contain nucleated elements. The dermis presents numerous and important dermal papillae (drawing a physiological hyperpapillomatosis on the histological sections). In addition, the vermilion epithelium is thicker compared to conventional skin, especially with respect to the skin of white lips. On the other hand, the stratum corneum (SC) covering the vermilion is extremely fine. The vermilion keratinocytes have a turnover rate or turnover faster than in conventional skin. This rapidity induces an incomplete differentiation of corneocytes (incomplete keratinization), thus an immature SC containing nucleated cells (Hikima R. et al.) Fundamental study of the lips (II): labial disruption and gumming of the lips JOURNAL OF JAPANESE COSMETIC SCIENCE SOCIETY [4], 265-69, 1996). The level of these nucleated cells seems positively correlated with the degree of cracking of the lips. The vermilion is richly vascularized and rests almost directly, without real hypodermic seated, on the orbicularis muscle of the lips, all giving this vermilion red color to this part of the lips. Vermillons, unlike other areas of the body's skin, do not contain hair follicles, sweat glands and little or no sebaceous glands. For the latter, only 50% of individuals have some sebaceous glands, which appear after adolescence. As a result, the physiology of this very particular area of the skin is very specific and very poorly known. Given these numerous features (parakeratotic differentiation, muscular padding, absence of epidermal appendages), it is impossible to transfer the knowledge established for the rest of the skin to the epidermis of vermilion. Finally, the mucosa is an inner zone lined with a thick, squamous, non-keratinized epithelium, devoid of SC, and endowed with a high permeability. This area is kept continuously wet by saliva. In the remainder of the present description, for the sake of simplicity, and although the vermilion area is the area targeted by the present description, the term lip will be used. In other words, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the term lip refers to vermilion. In order to fully understand the present invention, it is thus necessary to note the specificity of vermillons not only in histological terms as mentioned previously, in particular with respect to the skin, but also in terms of affections or signs of discomfort, or even of pathologies that can be associated with them. 25 In fact, it has been observed that some women complain of fragile lips all year round. They are then considered to have very fragile lips. Others complain of fragile lips only during certain periods of the year, for example in winter. They are then considered to have fragile lips. Unless otherwise indicated in the description which follows, the term fragile lips employed covers the fragile lips and the very fragile lips defined above.

  In any case, considering its location on the border of the digestive and cutaneous spheres, the many contacts with food and saliva and its particular structure with a thin and immature stratum corneum, vermilion represents in many people a zone of fragility recognized by the latter.

  The signs associated with fragile lips are detailed below. They can exist separately from each other or be associated. All of these signs can be uncomfortable, bothersome and uncomfortable when the lips move during speech or feeding. In addition, they can prevent the use of lipsticks. In the most severe cases where the woman has cracking or bleeding, these last signs can be painful: they therefore deserve attention in order to develop cosmetological methods of prevention and / or appropriate treatment . Although all of these signs are frequently observed, the amplification of triggering phenomena is far from being controlled. We know in particular the influence of age on the occurrence of these signs. (Arais S., et al.) Normal surface condition of the lips (I): the gercement of the lips Study on lip surface: Characteristics of chapped lip JOURNAL OF JAPANESE COSMETIC SCIENCE SOCIETY 13 [2], 64-68, 1989 . In addition, the lips are permanently exposed to the external environment, directly undergoing environmental aggressions. For example, the cold and the wind could be drying factors for the lips and contribute to the appearance of fragile lips. The winter season has been shown to be a more palatable period on the lips. UV is also likely to be a cause of brittle lips. In today's society, the widespread use of air conditioning could play a role in the occurrence of fragile lips.

  Finally, the lips are directly in contact with different physicochemical stimulations. For example taking meals, lipsticks, smoking, language, etc., are some of the factors causing fragile lips. Thus, when it is classically question of protecting the lips, it is generally intended to overcome only the problem of parched lips and the formation of cracks or crevices on the lips. However, as previously described, the problem of fragile lips is a more complex concept. Thus, fragile lips not only cause mechanical and biochemical damage to the epidermal barrier and desquamation abnormalities, but also play on the neurosensory aspect of the lips. Thus, all the persons concerned by the fragile lips in the sense of the present invention can not be satisfied by the products commonly used, namely in particular stick lip balms mainly aimed at moisturizing the lips which calms the immediate effects drying or cracking. One can also blame these lip balms of the prior art not even to show quick action, or even not to provide a real solution to the problem itself. Typically, it is known to use lip balms containing fatty substances, in particular oils or waxes, for example of plant origin, petroleum jelly or even lanolin. The main purpose of these substances is to slow down the loss of water from the lips. These lip balms may also have the disadvantage of imparting an unattractive appearance due to poor cosmetic application properties because of the fat and heaviness of the aforementioned moisturizing substances. It is also known from EP 0 940 137 to use acexamic acid as an agent for treating and preventing drying out and the formation of cracks and / or crevices of the lips.

  At the cutaneous level, filaggrin (Filament Aggregating Protein) is a structural protein contained in the corneocytes of the epidermis that allows the aggregation of keratin filaments in the stratum corneum. A few days after its formation from profilaggrine, it is proteolyzed partly in natural hydration factors or NMFs (for natural moisturizing factors in English), as for example in serine, as well as in other free amino acids which can themselves be catabolised to NMFs, such as, for example, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and urocanic acid (UCA). NMFs are hydrophilic molecules known to play a role in the regulation of epidermal homostasis. In addition to the NMFs derived from the degradation of filaggrin defined below, there are also other NMFs such as, for example, lactic acid.

  The invention specifically relates to the cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as a protective agent for fragile lips. By natural hydration factor (or NMF) deriving from the degradation of filaggrin, is meant in the sense of the invention a compound derived, that is to say derived directly or indirectly from the proteolysis of filaggrin. NMFs derived from the degradation of filaggrin include serine, tryptophan, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urocanic acid, and their salts and derivatives.

  The term "derivatives" is intended to denote the isomers, the esters and the ester salts of these compounds, when they exist. For example, the serine considered according to the invention may be chosen from L-serine, D-serine or (D, L) -serine. According to one embodiment, the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin can be chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), its salts, in particular of sodium, of lysine, of arginine, of aluminum, of magnesium, of copper, of zinc, of manganese, and its derivatives, for example, its lipohil derivatives, in particular the pyrrolidone carboxylate of menthyl, its esters from C2 to C24, branched or linear, and more particularly C8 to C14, and especially lauryl, cetyl, octyldodecyl, and tetradecyl and the salts of its esters, for example PCA cocoyl and sodium. In particular, it is possible to use the esters of octyldodecyl or tetradecyl PCA sold by the company SOLABIA under the references Ceramidoné and Myristidoné respectively, or the PCA of cocoyl and sodium marketed by the company ZSCHIMMER and SCHWARZ under the reference protelan NMA.

  More particularly, the invention relates, in one of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of serine, a salt thereof or a derivative thereof, such as those mentioned above, as an agent fragile lips protector.

  It also relates, in another aspect, to the cosmetic use of tryptophan of one of its salts or of one of its derivatives as a protective agent for fragile lips.

  It also relates, according to another of its aspects, the cosmetic use of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid of one of its salts or of one of its derivatives as a protective agent for fragile lips. It also relates, according to another of its aspects, the cosmetic use of urocanic acid of one of its salts or of one of its derivatives as a protective agent for fragile lips. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of at least two, in particular of at least three, or even at least four, natural hydration factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as a protective agent for fragile lips. Thus, it relates in particular to the cosmetic use of the combination of serine and tryptophan as a protective agent for fragile lips. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of serine, tryptophan and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, or the combination of serine, tryptophan and urocanic acid, or the combination of serine , pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urocanic acid, or the combination of tryptophan, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urocanic acid, as a protective agent for fragile lips. It also relates, in another of its aspects, the use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin for the preparation of a composition dedicated to the protection of fragile lips, and in particular intended for the prevention and / or treatment of clinical signs associated with fragile lips. The inventors have thus unexpectedly found a significant decrease in the natural hydration factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin at the fragile lips and consequently identified NMF as an effective means for preventing and / or treating clinical signs associated with fragile lips.

  The signs associated with fragile lips are detailed below. They can exist separately from each other or be associated. - the feeling of discomfort and / or tingling: it is a condition on which it is desirable to provide a response, treatment or care, which can better withstand discomfort. - the feeling of tightness: it is a feeling of awkward tension on the lips. - the presence of scales: these are small lamellae of stratum corneum that are visibly detached from the epidermis. - dry plates: these are small areas of the stratum corneum thickened, hardened, which are detached in plates. - cracks: these are small wounds, appearing spontaneously, within the superficial part of the epidermis, which have an appearance of superficial cuts perpendicular to the surface of the lips; they do not necessarily lead to bleeding. - cracks: these are larger cracks whose depth reaches the deep epidermis and the dermis. Bleeding: this is oozing of blood by cracking or cracking of the lips. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "fragile lips" embraces the lips affected by at least one of these signs associated with fragile lips. Three clinical stages of increasing severity can be schematically described: - stage 1: discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness; Stage 2: Stage 1 signs are associated with scales and / or dry plaques; Stage 3: The signs of stages 1 and 2 are associated with cracks and / or fissures and / or bleeding.

  The NMFs derived from the degradation of filaggrin used as a protective agent for fragile lips make it possible to prevent the manifestation at the fragile lips of the aforementioned clinical signs and / or to treat lips manifesting at least one of these signs, and therefore to have a repairing effect. Thus, the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin notably makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips such as discomfort sensations and / or tingling and / or tightness.

  It also makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips manifested by the presence of scales and / or dry plaques. Finally, it also makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips such as cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding.

  According to one embodiment, the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness, (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry patches, and / or (iii) cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding.

  It relates preferably to the cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as an agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness and (ii) the presence of scales and / or plaques. The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of subjects having fragile lips, comprising the application to the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. More specifically, it relates, according to a first embodiment, to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by sensations of discomfort and / or tightness and / or tingling, or are predisposed to manifest these sensations, including application on the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. According to a second embodiment, it relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by dander and / or dry plates, associated or not to sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tugging or are predisposed to manifesting these disorders, comprising applying to the lips of said subjects a composition comprising at least one natural hydration factor derived from the degradation of filaggrin.

  According to a third embodiment, it relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding, associated or not with sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and and / or tugs and / or scales and / or dry skin or are predisposed to manifest these disorders, comprising the application to the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. The subject of the present invention is furthermore the use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin for the preparation of a composition intended for the treatment and / or prevention of fragile lips in the sense of the invention. In general, the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin may be chosen from serine, tryptophan and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. urocanic acid, as well as their salts or derivatives. In the context of the present invention, the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and especially in a composition for labial application.

  The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a composition for labial application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. In particular, the invention relates to a composition for labial application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two, in particular at least three, or even at least four, natural hydration factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term prevent means reducing the risk of occurrence of a phenomenon. It also relates to a composition for lip application according to the invention further comprising at least one other protective agent for fragile lips, as described below.

  The natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin can be present in a composition for lip application according to the present invention in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, for example from 0.001 to 5%, and preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the NMF (s) derived from the degradation of filaggrin may be the only active agent (s) useful as a protective agent. fragile lips. According to another embodiment, it may be the only cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient of the composition for labial application. As a cosmetic and / or dermatological active substance is understood a substance providing an action at the level of the application support, in this case the lips, which by a mechanism of action of its own, modifies its structure and / or his metabolism. Some of these assets are particularly detailed later in the following description. It may for example also be a protective action of fragile lips, but also a healing action, soothing, moisturizing or desquamating. Typically, the physiologically acceptable medium as defined below, or the structuring agents, the film-forming polymers and dyestuffs are not active. According to an alternative embodiment, the lip application composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more other cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents which are detailed below in the description which follows.

  The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, in particular of soft paste, solid, cream, foam, spray, powder or even liquid. It can be an oil-in-water (O / W), oil-in-polyol, water-in-oil (W / O), water-in-polyol, multiple emulsion (W / O / W or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), an anhydrous gel, a solid or a soft paste, a liquid oily phase, a suspension, a dispersion or a solution. Preferably, it is in the form of an anhydrous solid composition, and more particularly in the form of a stick. The person skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be in anhydrous thick form. Also, the invention relates more particularly to an anhydrous makeup or care composition for fragile, thickened lips containing at least one thickening agent chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, fillers and mixtures thereof as detailed hereinabove. after. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological composition or lip care, or in the form of a sun protection composition of the lips. It is then in uncoloured form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents, other than the ceramide precursor, as detailed below. It can then be used in the form of care base for fragile lips. It can especially take the form of a lip balm, including protecting the lips intrinsic and external factors that may promote the occurrence of fragile lips. These external factors include cold, UV radiation, wind and physico-chemical stimulation such as eating, lipstick, smoking and language. The composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a colored lipstick product, such as a lipstick or gloss or lip gloss, having care and / or treatment properties. Of course the composition according to the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely non-toxic and may be applied to the lips of humans.

  PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM Physiologically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and more preferably from 0.1 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and touch). The non-aqueous organic solvent is preferably a non-water-soluble compound and liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise a hydrophilic medium comprising water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvent (s) such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, or C2 ethers and C2 aldehydes; C4 hydrophilic. The composition according to the invention may also be substantially free of such a hydrophilic medium. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and may in particular be anhydrous.

  SOLVENT PHASE The non-aqueous solvent phase, formed by the oils and solvents, is likely to form a continuous phase.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile compound" means any compound (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the lips in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile compound is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), Hg). In contrast, a nonvolatile compound is understood to mean a compound remaining on the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

  The volatile compound, which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at ambient temperature, is in particular an oil (liquid substance at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure) or a physiologically acceptable organic solvent. The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane. (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or "permetyls", branched Cg-C16 esters. , isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  The non-aqueous solvent phase may also comprise at least one non-volatile compound, which is insoluble in water and liquid at ambient temperature, in particular at least one non-volatile oil, which may be chosen in particular from hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and / or fluorinated nonvolatile and preferably bright. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. The fluorinated oils that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

  STRENGTHENING / STRENGTHENING AGENT The compositions in accordance with the invention may be in a thickened form, especially an anhydrous form, for example in the form of a stick. They may be thickened with at least one thickening agent chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers and mixtures thereof.

  As the fatty phase gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C 10-20 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; silica; partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16, KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF gel, SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric; galactomanans containing from one to six and preferably from two to four hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1 to C6 alkyl chains and better still C1 to C3 and more particularly ethyl guar having a degree of substitution of 2 to 3 such as that sold by Aqualon under the name N-HANCE-AG; gums, especially silicone gums, such as polydimethylsiloxane PDMSs having a viscosity> 500,000 centistokes and / or a molecular weight greater than or equal to 200,000 g / mol; silicone polyamides.

  It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, both groups being located on grafts or branches. These gelling agents are used for example at concentrations of 0.05 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions in accordance with the invention may contain at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. and up to 200 C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils is obtained. of the mixture. The waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting point of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. As wax which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are in particular of natural origin such as wax bees, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane, rice, Montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 C and better at 45 C silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 C whose ester chain comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; and their mixtures. The compositions in accordance with the invention advantageously contain polyethylene wax with a weight-average molecular weight of between 300 and 700 g / mol, in particular equal to 500 g / mol.

  As an indication, the wax may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain at least one pasty compound.

  For the purposes of the present invention, pasty means a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Paste is also understood to mean vinyl polylaurate. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - vinyl polymers - homopolymers of olefins - copolymers of olefins - homopolymers and copolymers of dienes hydrogenated linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, and esters thereof; .

  Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the pasty esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 diacid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a diol. C2-050 polyol, different from the polyester described above, - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with a monocarboxylic acid aliphatic, and mixtures thereof, such as the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1: 1 (1: 1) or castor oil monoisostearate. hydrogenated, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5OP), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen. The pasty compound preferably represents 1 to 99%, more preferably 1 to 60%, more preferably 2 to 30% and more preferably 5 to 20% by weight of the composition.

  As specified above, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 01% to 30% by weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly (3-alanine and polyethylene), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon). , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap 603 from Dow) Corning) and silicone resin microspheres (eg Toshiba Tospearls), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollow (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200 (Chemdal Corporation). Mention may also be made of silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200 and Aerosil 300; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Finally, mention may be made of polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 from TOSHIKI.

  COLORING MATERIAL According to a particular embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures. This dyestuff may represent from 0.001 to 98%, preferably from 0.1 to 85% and especially from 0.5 to 60% of the total weight of the composition. For obvious reasons, these dyestuffs are used in the compositions according to the invention, so as not to damage the more particularly desired effect according to the invention and which aims in particular to provide a protection of fragile lips .

  For a composition in the form of paste or casting such as lipsticks, use is generally made of 0.5 to 50% of dyestuff, preferably 2 to 40% and especially 5 to 30%, relative to the weight total of the composition. The dyes are preferably fat-soluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes can be used. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Yellow. C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are in particular beet juice, methylene blue and may represent from 0.01 to 6% by weight of the composition (if present). By pigments must be understood white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by some shellfish in their shell or else synthesized. The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.05 to 30% by weight of the final composition, and preferably in a proportion of 0.1 to 20%. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and lacquers of barium, strontium, calcium (D & C Red N 7), aluminum. The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a rate of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the nacres that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as colored titanium mica. The compositions may also advantageously contain gonio-chromatic pigments, for example interferential multilayer pigments, and / or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in document FR 0 209 246, the contents of which are incorporated by reference in the present application.

  FILMOGENEOUS POLYMER The composition may further comprise a film-forming polymer.

  According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" is intended to mean a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent a continuous and adherent film on the lips. Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, there may be mentioned in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose. The polymer may be associated with one or more auxiliary film-forming agents. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

  ADDITIONAL ASSETS According to a particular embodiment, the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin may be combined in the compositions according to the invention with other active agents capable of participating in the manifestation of the desired effect or to provide additional effects, or indeed any other effects provided that they do not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect. A natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin may especially be associated with at least one other protective agent for fragile lips, chosen from ascorbic acid or one of its analogues, a 6-base ceramide precursor. 4-hydroxy-sphingenine, as defined below, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the invention relates, in one of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of serine associated with at least one of ascorbic acid or one of its analogues and / or a precursor of ceramide to 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine base, as a protective agent for brittle lips. It also relates to the cosmetic use of tryptophan combined with at least ascorbic acid or one of its analogues and / or a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, as agent fragile lips protector.

  Ascorbic acid and its analogues An NMF derived from the degradation of filaggrin according to the invention may be advantageously combined with ascorbic acid or one of its analogues, itself also useful as a protective agent for fragile lips .

  The ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and its esters, preferably its acetic esters. propionic or palmitic acid, or its sugars, preferably glycosylated ascorbic acid, and the derivatives of formula (II): in which: R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon chain having from 15 to 20 carbon atoms, a sugar residue, a carbonyl group, an alkyloxycarbonyl group or a carbamoyl group, or R6O represents a sulfate function or a phosphate function, R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a sugar residue or a -COR10 group where Rio is 10 selected from: (a) a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, optionally hydroxylated, C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, (b) an optionally hydroxylated aryl radical, (c) an aralkyl radical of formula (III): R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy or alkylcarbonyloxy radical, and R8, R9, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a -COR10 group as defined previously or together, form an isopropylidene radical, or a salt thereof. By sugar residue is preferably meant a residue of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose or N-acetylglucosamine.

  By saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, is meant for example a radical selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert- butyl, hexyl, heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl, iso-nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl, and preferably the undecyl radical. In addition, a linear or branched unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms is more particularly intended to mean a radical chosen from the group consisting of radicals containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms and having one or more ethylenic unsaturations. , in particular the allyl radical.

  The preferred or unsubstituted aryl radical is the benzyl radical. Examples of aralkyl radicals of formula (III) above are those in which the aryl group is substituted with: one or more hydroxy radicals; alkoxy such as a radical selected from the group consisting of methoxy, ethoxy and butoxy, and preferably the methoxy radical; fluoroalkoxy such as the trifluoromethoxy radical; and alkylcarbonyloxy such as a radical selected from the group consisting of acetoxy, propionyloxy and butyryloxy, and preferably acetoxy. Suitable ascorbic acid analogs according to the present invention may be selected from ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, L-ascorbyl ascorbyl-2-sodium phosphate, ascorbyl tetra-iso-palmitate and cetyl ether of vitamin C (or vitamin C-3-O-hexadecane), and preferably among ascorbyl palmitate and ether cetyl cetyl vitamin C. Devitamin C cetyl ether is available commercially from the company NIKKOL.

  6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor An NMF derived from the degradation of filaggrin according to the invention may also advantageously be associated with at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, itself also useful as a protective agent for brittle lips. It may especially be a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor compound of the following formula (I): R 1 -CHOH-CH (NH-COR 2) (CH 2 OH) (I) in which: R1 represents a C3 to C30, in particular C7 to C25, and preferably C11 to C21, alkyl and alkenyl radical; and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a C3 to C30 hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C5 radical. at C25, and preferably at C8 to C24, linear, optionally hydroxylated and the hydroxyl group being in the alpha position of the carbonyl, and which may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, or one of its derivatives.

  Some of these compounds are for example described in applications EP 0 500 437 and EP 0 647 617. Within the meaning of the invention, the term "target ceramides" means ceramides or ceramide derivatives based on 6-hydroxy-4. -sphingenin, - ceramide derivatives, glycosylceramides or cerebrosides (either the combination of a ceramide with a sugar) or sphingomyelins (mainly ceramide phosphorylcholine or ceramide phosphoryl ethanolamine), see the hydrolysed form of ceramide, ie the sphingoid base alone or phosphorylated, and by 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursors, or target ceramide precursors, or more simply ceramide precursors ceramide or ceramide derivative compounds capable of be transformed into ceramides or ceramide derivatives based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine. A target ceramide precursor within the meaning of the invention thus designates a ceramide capable of being converted into a target ceramide, for example by hydroxylation of its position 6. Such hydroxylation may for example be carried out by 6-hydroxylases, which are enzymes which provide in vivo synthesis of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides or derivatives by hydroxylation at the 6-position of the sphingoid base of target ceramide precursors. The ceramide or 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ceramide derivative precursor may be a ceramide or a sphingosine-based ceramide derivative. Said sphingosine base can then be advantageously of erythroid conformation (2S, 3R).

  The ceramide or 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide derivative precursor may alternatively be a ceramide or a sphinganine-based ceramide derivative. In general, it may be a compound of formula (I): R 1 -CHOH-CH (NH-COR 2) (CH 2 -OH) (I) as defined above. It may especially be a compound of formula (I) in which R 1 represents a C 14 to C 18 alkyl or alkenyl radical, especially C 15. It can also be a compound of formula (I) in which R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical C 11 to C 19, preferably C 15 to C 19. As a compound of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine (or 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecanediol), and ceramides V. By ceramide V, is meant in the sense of of the invention any 4-sphingenine or sphinganine acylated by an α -hydroxy fatty acid having from 4 to 31 carbon atoms, especially from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, for example from 9 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. The ceramides V may thus be chosen from the following compounds of formula (IV) and (V): CH2_n

  In which n varies from 1 to 28, in particular from 3 to 23, for example from 6 to 22, preferably from 9 to 17, or even from 13 to 13; 17.

  As ceramide V, mention may also be made of sphingosine acylated with 2-hydroxystearic acid, also known under the name 2- (2'-hydroxystearyl) amino octadecane-1,3-diol, or alternatively α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

  The ceramide precursor may be further associated with an activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway so as to further increase the target ceramide content. A labial composition according to this aspect of the invention may thus comprise at least one natural hydration factor, at least one ceramide precursor and at least one activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway. By activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway is meant a substance capable of increasing the content of the lips in at least one ceramide or a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide derivative by activating hydroxylation in the 6-position. of the constituent base of at least one precursor of said ceramide or said derivative. The activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway is therefore a substance which makes it possible to increase the conversion rate of target ceramide precursors into 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides. The activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway thus makes it possible to specifically transform the target ceramide precursors provided by the lip composition into 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides or ceramide derivatives. Advantageously, an activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway may be chosen from ascorbic acid or one of its analogs, especially as defined above. The definition of ascorbic acid and its analogs previously given in the present description to describe other fragile lip-protecting agents is also useful for describing the activating substances of the 6-hydroxylase pathway which may be associated with precursors. additional ceramide compounds described above. Additional active agents capable of providing additional effects may also belong to the family of moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents and healing agents.

  Moisturizing agents Moisturizing agent means: - either a compound acting on the barrier function, in order to maintain the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. There may be mentioned ceramides distinct ceramide precursors considered previously, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, 13-sitosterol, campesterol), free fatty acids essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, petrolatum and lanolin; or a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, xylitol, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives , chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides such as the product marketed under the Pentavitin reference, alginates (in particular the product Sobalg PH 154 marketed by Grindsted).

  These compounds may represent from 0.001% to 30%, and preferably from 0.01 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

  Desquamating agents By desquamating agent is meant any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as 3-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (the n-acid 5-salicylic octanoyl); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of chelating agents for mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N', ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

  Anti-pollution or anti-radical agent By the expression anti-pollution agent is meant any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel. By anti-radical agent is meant any compound capable of trapping free radicals.

  As ozone-trapping agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, especially green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin.

  As scavengers for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of tannins such as ellagic acid; indo derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, water hyacinth extracts or eichornia crassipes.

  Finally, as scavengers for heavy metals that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid, and N, N'-bis- ( 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, especially green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid.

  The anti-radical agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain anti-pollution agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase and wheat germ extracts containing it, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; guanosine; lignans and melatonin.

  Soothing agents As soothing agents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example, (3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, plant extracts such as that Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, Laminaria saccharina, Boswellia serrata, Centipeda cunnighami, Helianthus annuus, Linum usitatissimum, Cola nitida, Epilobium Angustifolium, Aloe vela, Bacopa monieri, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, canola oil, bisabolol and chamomile extracts, allantoin, sepivital EPC (vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid) from Seppic, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as Musk rose, cassis, ecchium, or fish oils, plankton extracts, tocotrienols, piperonal, clove extract, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, and beta methasone.

  Healing Agents Examples of cicatrizing agents include the fern leaf extract marketed under the reference Mamaku Vital Essence by Lucas Meyer, rice peptides obtained by hydrolysis of rice proteins marketed under the name Nutripeptide by Silab, the oxide zinc, vitamin B5.

  Among the active agents which do not provide a complementary effect but provide effects other than the protective effect of fragile lips, as long as they do not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect, mention may be made in particular of: promoting blood microcirculation such as agents promoting the production of nitric oxide; antihypertensive agents, in particular potassium channel openers; phosphodiesterase inhibiting agents; flavonoids or flavoglycosides; glucosides such as C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, plant extracts with vasodilating properties, other vasodilating agents and temperature-modulating agents, muscle-relaxant compounds such as magnesium gluconate , manganese gluconate and Rose extract.

  As other particular combinations that can be used in the context of the present invention, there may also be mentioned combinations of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin, with at least one additional active ingredient. selected from the extracts of Centella Asiatica, madecassoside, vitamin B5, hydroxyethyl urea and zinc oxide. The additional active agent (s) that may be associated with the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition in accordance with the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient usually used in the field of lip care, such as essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polyalkylenes or vinyl polylaurate, aqueous phase gelling agents, surfactants, emollients, tensors, vitamins, essential fatty acids, lipophilic or hydrophilic sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. Of course those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples. Example 1: Repairing stick sensitive lips - hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride 0.5% - liquid lanolin 27.2% - micro-crystalline wax 10.5% - polyglycerolated beeswax (3 moles) 4.2% - acetylated lanolin 6.7% - arara oil (oleic acid esters) 13.5% - oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5 OP) 6.7% - oleyl erucate 13.5% - oleic-linoleic-linolenic acid triglycerides 1.7% - palmitic-oleic-linoleic acid triglycerides 13.5% - lauryl PCA 1.0% Example 2: Soothing gloss - polybutene (Indopol H1500 from Amoco) 43.0% - C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (Finetex FinsolvTN) 33.0% - PVP / hexadecene copolymer 22.0% - Octyldodecyl PCA (Solabia ceramide) 0.5% - ahydroxypalmitoylsphingosine 0.1%

  Example 3: Liquid lipstick for fragile lips - aqueous dispersion of polyurethane (NEOREZ R-981) qs 100.0% - pigment 1.0% - plasticizer (glycerine) 1.25% - sodium PCA 1.0% - Acid glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (hayashibara) 0.5% Example 4: Soothing stick - hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride 0.5% - liquid lanolin 26.2% - microcrystalline wax 10.5% - polyglycerolated beeswax (3 moles) 4.2% - 7.7% acetylated lanolin - arara oil (oleic acid esters) 13.5% - oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5 OP) 6.7% - oleyl erucate 13.5% - palmitic-oleic-linoleic acid triglycerides 15.2% - lauryl PCA 1.0% - tetradecyl PCA (Solabia myristone) 1.0% 15

Claims (33)

  1. Cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as a protective agent for fragile lips.   2. Cosmetic use of the combination of at least two, especially at least three, or even at least four natural hydration factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as a protective agent for fragile lips.   3. Cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tears, (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry patches, and / or (iii) cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding.   4. Cosmetic use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or stinging and / or tugging and (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry patches.   5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (or) natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is (are) chosen from serine , tryptophan, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and urocanic acid, as well as their salts or derivatives.   6. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is (are) chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, its salts sodium, lysine, arginine, aluminum, magnesium, copper, zinc, manganese, and its derivatives, for example, its lipohil derivatives, especially the menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylate, its esters of C2 to C24, branched or linear, and more particularly C8 to C14, and especially lauryl, cetyl, octyldodecyl, and tetradecyl and the salts of its esters such as PCA cocoyl and sodium.   7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (or) natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is (are) used in a composition for labial application.   8. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is in the form of paste, including soft paste, solid, cream, foam, spray, powder or liquid.   9. Use according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (HIE), oil-in-polyol, water-in-oil (W / O), water-in-water in-polyol, a multiple emulsion (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or HIE / H), an anhydrous gel, a solid or a soft paste, a liquid oily phase , a suspension, a dispersion or a solution.   10. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an anhydrous solid composition, and more particularly in the form of a stick.   11. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the composition comprises the (or) natural factor (s) of hydration in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight. weight, for example from 0.001 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a dermatological composition or care of the lips, in the form of a sunscreen composition of the lips, under the basic form of care for brittle lips, in the form of a lip balm or in the form of a colored lip makeup product, such as a lipstick or a lip gloss or gloss.   13. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 12 characterized in that the composition is thickened with at least one thickening agent selected from fat phase gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers and mixtures thereof. 25   14. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 13, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one dyestuff selected from dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.   15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is associated with an additional active agent chosen from the protective agents of fragile lips, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents and healing agents   16. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the protective agent of the fragile lips is ascorbic acid or one of its analogues.   17. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the analogs of ascorbic acid are chosen from its salts, its esters, its sugars and the derivatives of formula (II): in which: R6 represents a hydrogen atom a hydrocarbon chain having 15 to 20 carbon atoms, a sugar residue, a carbonyl group, an alkyloxycarbonyl group or a carbamoyl group, or R 6O represents a sulfate function or a phosphate function, R 7 represents a hydrogen atom a sugar residue or a -CORIO group in which Rio is chosen from: (a) a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, optionally hydroxylated, C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, (b) an optionally hydroxylated aryl radical, (c) an aralkyl radical of formula (III): wherein R, R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy or alkylcarbonyloxy radical, and R8, R9, which may be identical or different; different, repr are a hydrogen atom or a group-CORIO as defined above or taken together form an isopropylidene radical, or a salt thereof.   18. Use according to claim 16 or 17, characterized in that the ascorbic acid analogues are chosen from ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate and glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, 1 sodium ascorbate, sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, ascorbyl tetra-iso-palmitate and cetyl vitamin C ether.   19. Use according to claim 15, characterized in that the fragile lip-protecting agent is a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ceramide precursor.   20. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ceramide precursor compound 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine base is a compound of formula (I) below: RI-CHOH-CH (NH-COR2) (CH2OH) (I) in which: R 1 represents a C 3 to C 30, in particular C 7 to C 25, and preferably C 1 to C 12 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical in C3 to C30, in particular C5 to C25, and preferably C8 to C24, linear, optionally hydroxylated and the hydroxyl group being in the alpha position of the carbonyl, and which may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, 25 or one of its derivatives.   21. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is chosen from N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine and ceramides V.   22. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein a ceramide V is a compound of formula (IV) or (V): ## STR2 ## in which n varies from 1 to 28, in particular from 3 to 23, for example from 6 to 22, preferably from 9 to 17, or even from 13 to 17.   23. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor compound is combined with an activating substance of the 6-hydroxylase pathway, in particular with ascorbic acid or one of its analogues as defined in claims 17 or 18.   24. Use according to any one of claims 7 to 23, characterized in that the composition comprises the additional active agent (s) in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially 0.01. at 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   25. Use of at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin for the preparation of a composition intended for the treatment and / or prevention of fragile lips.   26. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is as defined in any one of claims 8 to 14.   27. A composition for lip application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin.   28. Composition for labial application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two, in particular at least three or even at least four natural hydration factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. 39 H3C H3C CH2   29. Composition according to claim 27 or 28, wherein the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is (are) as defined in claim (s). 5 or 6.   30. Composition according to any one of claims 27 to 29, further comprising at least one other protective agent for fragile lips, chosen from ascorbic acid or an analogue thereof as defined in claim 17 or 18 and or a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor as defined in claims 20 to 23.   31. A composition according to any one of claims 27 to 30, wherein the composition is as defined in any one of claims 8 to 14.   32. A method of cosmetic treatment of subjects having fragile lips, comprising the application to the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. 15   33. The method of claim 32 wherein, the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is as defined in claims 5 or 6.