FR2843018A1 - Composition for e.g. lipstick comprises fatty acid ester of dextrin as thickener and gelling agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. Composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one repeating unit, for example one glucose unit. The fatty phase contains an oil or a mixture of oils that has solubility parameters deltad, deltap and deltah satisfying equation (1). (4(deltad-deltade)2 + (deltap-deltape)2 + (deltah-deltahe)2 )1/2 at most 10 (1) deltade, deltape and deltahe are the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin ester forming a physiologically acceptable medium. An Independent claim is also included for a composition containing a mixture of fatty acid esters of dextrins. One has a degree of substitution less than 2, and one with a degree of substitution greater than 2.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition that can be used for care and / or make-up of the skin, semi-mucous membranes, mucous membranes and / or integuments.

In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a thickened fatty phase; this is particularly the case in ointments, care gels or anhydrous exfoliates, solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks.

To remedy exudation and migration, waxes or fillers are usually used. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers tend to matify the composition, which is not always desirable. In particular, women often look for a shiny lipstick.

It is also known to thicken the oils with polymeric thickeners.

Unfortunately, the known oil thickeners must be used in large quantities to obtain a gel of high viscosity. However, too much thickener gives the composition, when the latter is intended for the cosmetic field, insufficient properties, including a tacky feel and a lack of slippery, these disadvantages can be very troublesome or even crippling.

The present invention aims to provide compositions containing a continuous or external liquid fatty phase, thickened or gelled by a dextrin ester type agent.

Dextrin esters are generally known as emulsion stabilizers and as oil thickeners in the prior art.

 In particular, US Pat. No. 4,780,145 describes an anhydrous composition containing a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, a dextrin ester with a fatty acid and petroleum jelly or a vegetable oil. This document illustrates the ability of dextrin esters to thicken both polar and nonpolar oils.

 Similarly, JP 63 216 817 discloses a gel containing a low molecular weight cyclic silicone, a fat phase, i.e. vaseline or lanolin, and a dextrin ester.

 JP 04 149 116 discloses a transparent composition containing a dextrin ester-such that its degree of polymerization is between 3 and 100 and the degree of substitution is between 1.4 and 2.4 - and liquid paraffin.

 The application WO 97/11678 describes a gelled antiperspirant gel, in particular with a dextrin ester. The described dextrin ester has a degree of esterification greater than 2. This composition presented as stable has the disadvantage of exuding.

 The patent application FR 00 08 157 relates to aqueous emulsions stabilized by the combination of a dextrin ester and a hydrophilic gelling agent.

 U.S. Patent No. 5,840,883 discloses dextrin esters having a degree of substitution of from 1 to 3, preferably from 1.2 to 2.8, which has improved gelling properties.

 The applicant has observed that the compositions of the prior art tend to be covered with droplets of fatty substances over time, and all the more rapidly as the conditions of temperature and / or humidity are high. This phenomenon of exudation of fatty substances is very detrimental because it provokes a repulsion on the part of the users.

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The present invention therefore aims to provide a composition thickened or gelled by a dextrin ester which does not exude, even in the absence of waxes, and whose deposit on the skin or lips is glossy. The present invention also aims to provide a homogeneous composition in color which has all these advantages.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of a particular dextrin ester makes it possible to thicken or even gel certain liquid fatty phases without observing exudation. The application of the composition obtained on the lips leads to a glossy film, non-migrating, comfortable, long-lasting, non-exuding and homogeneous in color.

The Applicant has indeed found that the use in the composition of a dextrin ester whose degree of esterification is less than 2 and which has an affinity with the oil or the mixture of oils of the liquid fatty phase , makes it possible to avoid any phenomenon of exudation and to obtain a composition having all these advantages.

The subject of the present invention is therefore compositions containing a continuous liquid fat phase, thickened or gelled by a dextrin ester type agent whose degree of substitution is less than 2. This dextrin ester has the advantage of retaining the contained oils. in the fatty phase without mattifying the composition, unlike waxes. It also allows to obtain a composition that does not exude.

The invention applies not only to lip makeup products but also to care products and / or treatment of the skin, including the scalp, and lips, such as products including sunscreen stick of the facial skin, to make-up products for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations, especially cast in sticks or cups, anti-ring products, eye shadow and ephemeral tattoo products body care products such as deodorants, especially sticks, shampoos and conditioners and eye makeup products such as eyeliners, especially in the form of pencils, and mascaras, especially in the form of breads, and also facial and body care products.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature. also called "oils", generally compatible with each other.

 By "thickened" in the sense of the invention is meant a composition whose viscosity is increased by the addition of the dextrin ester, and which flows under its own weight over time.

 By "gelled" in the sense of the invention is meant a composition whose viscosity is increased by the addition of the dextrin ester, and which does not flow under its own weight over time.

[4 (yod- Ôd)2 + (5p- CSPe)2 + (joh- 5hie)2 ]1/2 10 The present invention relates to a composition containing a continuous liquid fat phase, gelled or thickened by a sufficient quantity of at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, said fatty phase containing an oil or a mixture of oils which has solubility parameters #d, #p and #h satisfying the following conditions:

[4 (yod-δd) 2 + (5p-CSPe) 2 + (joh-5hie) 2] 1/2 10

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 #de, #pe and #he being the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, the liquid fatty phase and the dextrin ester forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15-40. Dextrin ester According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit corresponds to formula (I):

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 is other than hydrogen, - n is an integer inclusive between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

dans laquelle : - les radicaux R1, R2 et R3 représentent l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant 6 à 50, notamment 8 à 30, voire 12-22 et mieux 12-18 atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène, - n est un entier compris entre 3 et 150, notamment 10 et 100, et de préférence 15-40; Le radical R-CO- de l'ester de dextrine de formule (I) ou (II) est choisi parmi les radicaux According to another embodiment, the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit corresponds to formula (II):

in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 at 30, or even 12-22 and most preferably 12-18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is other than hydrogen; n is an integer of from 3 to 150, especially and 100, and preferably 15-40; The R-CO- radical of the dextrin ester of formula (I) or (II) is chosen from among the radicals

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 caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearic, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear. R-CO is preferably the palmitic radical.

Preferably, a dextrin palmitate is used, such that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1.8, more preferably between 1.5 and 1.7. n is advantageously between 20 and 30, preferably equal to 30.

The molecular weight of the dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15,000 and 20,000.

Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, especially under the name RHEOPEARL TL from Chiba Flour.

The ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 25%, preferably 5 to 25%, more preferably 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The thickening or gelling of the oils of the liquid fatty phase, which is partly adjustable by the nature and amount of the dextrin ester used, is such that a rigid structure is obtained in the form of a stick. or a stick, or pasty. The sticks, when colored, allow after application to obtain a brilliant deposit, homogeneous in color and not migrating into the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, particularly surrounding the lips, but also the eyes.

According to the invention, the thickening or gelation of the liquid fatty phase is obtained using one or more dextrin esters whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, particular one or more dextrin esters of formula (I) or (II).

Fatty phase
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

 The three solubility parameters of Hansen - #d, #p and #h - characterize, for a given constituent, the energies respectively corresponding to the dispersive, polar and hydrogen bonding interactions existing between the molecules of this constituent.

 In order for the oil or the mixture of oils of the liquid fatty phase to be compatible with the dextrin ester used, the solubility parameters of said oil or of said oil mixture are chosen so as to be in the sphere of solubility of said dextrin ester, defined by a center of coordinates #de, #pe and #he and a radius R of at most 10. The radius is calculated according to the following formula:

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R = [4 ( d- de)2 + (bop- Pe)2 + (5h- U-he)2 2 Selon un mode de mise en #uvre, R est inférieur ou égal à 8, de préférence à 5.

R = [4 (d-de) 2 + (bop-Pe) 2 + (5h-U-he) 2 According to one embodiment, R is less than or equal to 8, preferably 5.

telles que 17 <~ de :519,1 1 :5 Pe:5 2 et 9 :5 he:5 11. Les valeurs des paramètres de solubilité de Hansen du Rheopearl TL sont respectivement #de=18,2, #pe=1,5 et #he=9,8 La phase grasse liquide peut comprendre un mélange d'huiles. Dans ce cas, les paramètres de solubilité du mélange sont déterminés à partir de ceux des huiles prises séparément, selon les relations suivantes :

Borne) = Yi xi 5D, 5pme| = L 1 xi ôp, et 5hme| = S, 1 xi 5hui où xi représente la fraction volumique de l'huile i dans le mélange. The Hansen solubility parameter values of the dextrin ester are in particular

such that 17 <~ of: 519.1 1: 5 Pe: 5 2 and 9: 5 he: 5 11. The Hansen solubility parameter values of Rheopearl TL are respectively # = 18.2, # pe = 1 , 5 and # he = 9.8 The liquid fatty phase may comprise a mixture of oils. In this case, the solubility parameters of the mixture are determined from those of the oils taken separately, according to the following relationships:

Terminal) = Yi xi 5D, 5 pme = L 1 xi ôp, and 5hme | = S, 1 xi 5hui where xi represents the volume fraction of the oil i in the mixture.

As an oil satisfying only the conditions of the present invention, mention may be made of fatty acid triglycerides, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid, octanoic acid and capric / caprylic acid, and hydroxylated triglycerides. such as castor oil, synthetic alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, fatty acid esters, especially of 4 to 22 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyglyceryl diisostearate, oleic alcohol, hydroxylated synthetic esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate, or mixtures thereof.

The following Table 1 gives the radius value of the sphere R = [4 (# d- 18,2) 2 + (5p-1,5) 2 + (# h- 9,8) 2] 1/2 for different oils with respect to the Hansen solubility parameter values of Rheopearl TL. The following oils are within the scope of the present invention without limiting its scope. Other oils verifying the conditions of the invention are available.

TABLE 1

<Tb>
<tb> distance <SEP> between
<tb> Name <SEP> of <SEP> the oil <SEP>#d<SEP>#p<SEP>#h<SEP> the oil <SEP> and <SEP> the
<tb> Rhéopearl <SEP> TL
<tb> oil <SEP> of <SEP> ricinus <SEP> 16,79 <SEP> 1,27 <SEP> 9 <SEP> 2,9
<tb> Octyl-2-dodecanol <SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.43 <SEP> 7.56 <SEP> 4.3
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> Oleylate <SEP> 16.28 <SEP> 1.6 <SEP> 8.01 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Triglyceride <SEP> of <SEP> caprylic acid <SEP> / <SEP> capercal <SEP> 16.64 <SEP> 1.69 <SEP> 6.47 <SEP> 4.6
<tb> palmitate <SEP> 2-ethylhexyl <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> ether <SEP> 16.53 <SEP> 1.71 <SEP> 7.98 <SEP> 3.8
<tb> hexyldecanol <SEP> 16.26 <SEP> 1.75 <SEP> 8.37 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> behenate <SEP> 2-ethylhexyl <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.57 <SEP> 1.42 <SEP> 7.27 <SEP> 4.1
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> Monoisostearate <SEP> of <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.89 <SEP> 8.53 <SEP> 3.9
<tb> tetra-ethyl-2-hexanoate <SEP> of <SEP> 16.55 <SEP> 1.53 <SEP> 6.62 <SEP> 4.6
<tb> Pentaerythrityl <SEP> 16.55 <SEP> 1.53 <SEP> 6.62 <SEP> 4.6
<tb> Polyglyceryl <SEP> 3 <SEP> diisostearate <SEP> 16.96 <SEP> 1.64 <SEP> 10.27 <SEP> 2.5
<tb> alcohol <SEP> isostearyl alcohol <SEP> 16.32 <SEP> 1.58 <SEP> 7.94 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> phytantriol <SEP> 16.5 <SEP> 2.52 <SEP> 13.2 <SEP> 4.9
<tb> Citrate <SEP> of <SEP> triisocetyl <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 1.09 <SEP> 6.74 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Citrate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-iso <SEP> arachidylate <SEP> 16,77 <SEP> 0.9 <SEP> 6,12 <SEP> 4,7
<tb> Malate <SEP> of <SEP> diisostearyl <SEP> 16.61 <SEP> 1.26 <SEP> 7.08 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> citrate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-isostearyl <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 0.99 <SEP> 6.4 <SEP> 4.5
<tb> triacetate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> oxyethylene <SEP> (7 <SEP> OE) <SEP> 16.97 <SEP> 2.98 <SEP> 9.61 <SEP> 2.9
<tb> Tri-mellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-decyl <SEP> 17.49 <SEP> 1.12 <SEP> 5.23 <SEP> 4.8
<tb> Tri-heptanoate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.62 <SEP> 1.99 <SEP> 7.01 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2 <SEP> triisostearate <SEP> 16.7 <SEP> 1.06 <SEP> 6.61 <SEP> 4.4
<tb> undecylpentadecanol <SEP> 16.45 <SEP> 1.12 <SEP> 6.69 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> PPG10 <SEP> butanediol <SEP> 16.77 <SEP> 2.38 <SEP> 10.73 <SEP> 3.1
<tb> triacetate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.42 <SEP> 4.57 <SEP> 10.63 <SEP> 4.8
<tb> octyl <SEP> hydroxystearate <SEP> 16.43 <SEP> 1.55 <SEP> 7.73 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> C12-13 <SEP> alkyl <SEP> lactate <SEP> 16.25 <SEP> 2.47 <SEP> 9.76 <SEP> 4.0
<tb> Iso-stearyl Lactate <SEP><SEP> 16.36 <SEP> 1.89 <SEP> 8.53 <SEP> 3.9
<tb> Octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxy-stearate <SEP><SEP> 16.53 <SEP> 1.09 <SEP> 6.47 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> Isso-stearate <SEP> of <SEP> butyl <SEP> 16.6 <SEP> 1.21 <SEP> 6.72 <SEP> 4.5
<tb> Tetra-iso-nonanoate <SEP> of <SEP> pentaerythrityl <SEP> 16.39 <SEP> 1.4 <SEP> 6.32 <SEP> 5.0
<tb> Dibenzoate <SEP> of <SEP> dipropylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 18.77 <SEP> 2.57 <SEP> 7.12 <SEP> 3.1
<tb> Tetrapelargonate <SEP> of <SEP> Pentaerythrityl <SEP> 16.82 <SEP> 1.4 <SEP> 6.32 <SEP> 4.4
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2-isostearate <SEP> 17.03 <SEP> 2.59 <SEP> 12.99 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> Polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate <SEP> 16.79 <SEP> 1.5 <SEP> 8.95 <SEP> 2.9
<tb> Di-isostearate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.61 <SEP> 1.29 <SEP> 7.16 <SEP> 4.1
<tb> Tri-mellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-iso-decylate <SEP> 17.43 <SEP> 1.37 <SEP> 5.8 <SEP> 4.3
<tb> Trimellitate <SEP> of <SEP> tri-ethyl-2-hexyl <SEP> 17.56 <SEP> 1.62 <SEP> 6.31 <SEP> 3.7
<tb> Trimellitate <SEP> Isofol <SEP> 12 <SEP> 17.34 <SEP> 1.19 <SEP> 5.4 <SEP> 4.7
<tb> Tri-octanoate <SEP> of <SEP> glyceryl <SEP> 16.35 <SEP> 1.78 <SEP> 6.64 <SEP> 4.9
<tb> 2-Butyloctanol <SEP> 16.12 <SEP> 2.26 <SEP> 9.52 <SEP> 4.2
<Tb>
Mixtures of the oils described above can be made with oils which are not alone in the solubility sphere of dextrin ester as defined above, provided that the mixture is homogeneous and the solubility parameters of the oil mixture. verify the relationship of the invention. It is within the abilities of those skilled in the art to determine the amounts of each oil to obtain a mixture of oils meeting the conditions of the invention.

As oils which do not satisfy Hansen's relations above, taken alone, mention may be made of: - volatile or non-volatile silicones, - oils of mineral origin such as petroleum jelly and paraffin oil, - oils of plant origin such as jojoba oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, shea butter oil, synthetic oils such as Purcellin oil, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-dodecyl benzoate and hydrogenated isoparaffin (6.8 moles of isobutylene), synthetic oils or esters of formula R 5 COOR 6 in which R5 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid having from 1 to 40 and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 and better still 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R5 + R6> 10 such as for example Purcellin oil (octanoate of

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 cetostearyl), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols.

The liquid fatty phase preferably represents from 5 to 95% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 75%.

The liquid fatty phase may also contain other oils totally incompatible with the oils described above, ie not forming a mixture homogeneous with the eye and whose distance in the Hansen space is greater than 10 (There will then be no modification of the solubility parameters of the initially optimized mixture) chosen especially from silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or non-linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not; polyglycols.

Other Ingredients The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additional additive usually used in the field concerned, such as water, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, lipophilic gelling agents or nonaqueous liquid compounds. aqueous phase gelling agents, dispersants, cosmetic active agents. These additives, with the exception of water which can represent from 0 to 70% and for example from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, can be present in the composition at the rate of 0 , 0005 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.001 to 10%.

As a cosmetic active agent that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of vitamins A, E, C, B3, F, provitamins such as D-panthenol, soothing active agents such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera and allantoin. , plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides, "freshness" active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter, dimethicone), moisturizers (PCA arginine), active ingredients anti-wrinkles, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

 The applications of the compositions according to the invention are numerous and relate to all colored or non-colored cosmetic products and more particularly to lipsticks.

 The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition, colored or not, of skincare, in the form of a sunscreen or make-up removing composition or in the form of a hygienic composition. If it contains cosmetic active ingredients, it can then be used as a basis for care or non-therapeutic treatment for the skin such as the hands or face or for the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or the sun and / or wind), artificial tanning product of the skin.

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The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored make-up product of the skin, in particular the face, such as a blush, a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow, a body make-up such as a semipermanent tattoo product or lip makeup such as a red or a lip gloss, possibly having the properties of, care or non-therapeutic treatment, a make-up product for integuments such as, for example, a nail polish, a mascara, a eyeliner, a product for coloring or hair care.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lipstick or a lip gloss. The application of this lipstick leads to a bright, nonmigrant and long-lasting deposit.

The composition according to the present invention is preferably a lipstick and may further contain a pasty fatty substance or a wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty compound" means a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 60 [deg.] C., preferably from 30 to 45 [deg.] C. and / or a hardness of from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. and up to at 200 ° C., a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

In general, the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the liquid fatty phase, additional fatty substances which may be chosen from fillers, waxes, oils, gums and / or pasty fatty substances. , hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition contains a pasty fatty substance and / or a wax.

The waxes, in the sense of the application, may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They are of natural origin, such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, ceresin, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or copolymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concretes at 45 C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 45 C, having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as acid stearic, myristic, or behenic, and mixtures thereof.

 Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention contains less than 50% by weight of waxes, more preferably less than 30%. According to one embodiment, the composition is free of waxes.

 The nature and the quantity of pasty substances or waxes depend on the mechanical properties and textures sought. As an indication, the wax may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

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By "filler" is meant any colorless particle chosen from inorganic or organic fillers, lamellar, spherical or oblong, chemically inert in the first composition, the size of which is preferably less than 500 nm in order to preserve the transparent or translucent nature of the composition.

Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, laponite, polyamide powders such as nylon, poly-p-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine , starch, boron nitride, acrylic polymer particles, especially acrylic acid copolymer and silicone resin microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, carbonate and hydro-carbonate of magnesium, hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof. These fillers may or may not be treated on the surface, in particular to render them lipophilic.

Preferably, the fillers represent from 0.1 to 35%, preferably from 0.5 to 25% and better still from 1 to 15% of the total weight of the first composition, if they are present.

Physiologically acceptable means pleasant taste, touch, appearance and / or odor, applicable for several days for several months.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.

The composition may advantageously contain a dyestuff which may be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 35% and better still from 5 to 25%.

 Preferably, the coloring matter contains dyes and / or pigments and / or nacres in order to obtain a semi-covering or transparent makeup. The pigments also make it possible to reduce the sticky feel of the compositions, unlike soluble dyes.

Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC
5, yellow quinoline. They can represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the compositions and better still from 0.1 to 6% (if present).

 The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated.

 Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may represent from 0 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 35%, and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

 The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15% (if present).

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 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

Forms of the Composition The composition of the invention is advantageously self-supporting and may be in the form of a stick or a cup. It is in particular in the form of a rigid anhydrous gel transparent or translucent, and especially in the form of anhydrous stick transparent or tranlucide, the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.

The levels of dextrin ester of formula (I) or (II) are chosen according to the hardness of the desired gel or stick and according to the particular application envisaged.

The hardness can be measured by the so-called butter cutter method, which consists in cutting a stick of lipstick of 8.1 mm and measuring the hardness at 20 C, using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer of the Indelco-Chatillon company moving at a speed of 100mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) needed to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 150 g, preferably from 30 to 120 and for example from 30 to 50 g.

This hardness is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and lips. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention in cast form, in particular as a stick, withstands shocks.

According to the invention, the composition in the form of a stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness. The stick compositions of the prior art do not have this property of elasticity and flexibility.

These sticks or sticks, when they are colored and in particular pigmented, allow, after application, to obtain a glossy deposit, homogeneous in color and not migrating in the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, particularly surrounding the lips, but also the eyes.

According to one embodiment, the composition is in the form of a composition for the care, cleaning, removal of make-up or make-up of the skin, semi-mucous membranes, mucous membranes and / or integuments.

 It can be in the form of paste, solid or cream. It may be an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, an anhydrous, solid or flexible gel, or in the form of a free or compacted powder and even in biphasic form. Preferably, it is in anhydrous form. By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition, in which water is not added during the formulation, and comprising a fat continuous or external phase which represents up to 98% by weight of the composition, of preferably up to 99.5% by weight.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a make-up composition such as a foundation, a blush, an eye shadow, a lipstick, a mascara, an eye-catcher or an eyeliner. liner; a care composition such as a care base for the lips, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream, moisturizer), a cleansing cream or emulsion; a solar or self-tanning composition; a hair composition such as a hair care cream, eyelashes and eyebrows.

 uses

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The subject of the invention is also the use of a dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, as described above, in a composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, said fatty phase containing an oil or a mixture of oils which has solubility parameters #d, #p and #h satisfying the following conditions: [4 (# d- of) 2 + (5p- #pe) 2 + (5h- # he) 2] 1/2 # 10 #de #, #pe and #he being the solubility parameters of the at least one dextrin ester, for structuring said composition and / or for limiting the exudation of the composition, and / or to increase the brightness of the composition, and / or to limit the deposition migration of the composition, and / or to impart transparency to the composition.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of a dextrin ester of formula (I) or (II) as described above for increasing the brightness of the composition and / or for improving the stability of the composition, and / or to confer transparency of the composition; and / or for structuring said fatty phase of the composition.

 The subject of the present invention is also, when the liquid fatty phase of the composition additionally contains pigments and / or fillers, the use of a dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of the dextrin ester being less than 2. on the basis of a glucose unit to improve the homogeneity of the deposition of the composition, in particular the homogeneity of its color.

 The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Quantities are given as a percentage by mass.

Example 1
10% polyethylene wax
5% dextrin palmitate Rheopearl TL (degree of substitution 1.5 to 1.7)
85% castor oil
It is observed that this composition is in the form of a non-exudant stick at 45 C for 2 months.

Comparative Example 2:
10% polyethylene wax
90% castor oil
This composition is in the form of a stick which exudes when placed under accelerated conditions of aging at 45 C for 2 months.

Claims (23)

 1. A composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase gelled or thickened with a sufficient quantity of at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, said phase fat containing an oil or a mixture of oils which has solubility parameters #d, #p and #h satisfying the following conditions: [4 (5d- de) 2 + (# p- #pe) 2 + (#h - #he) 2] 1/2 # 10 #de #, #pe and #he being the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, the liquid fatty phase and dextrin ester forming a physiologically acceptable medium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (I):

 in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 is other than hydrogen, - n is an integer inclusive between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 corresponds to formula (II):

<Desc / Clms Page number 13>  in which: the radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, even 12-22 and better 12-18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen, n is an integer between 3 and 150, especially 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40. 4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, R-CO- is selected from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, beheenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, ethyl-2-butyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, ethyl radicals. 2-hexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepine, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic , stearidonic, arachidonic, stearic, and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the radical R is linear. 6. Composition according to claim 5, R-CO- is the palmitic radical. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the degree of substitution of the dextrin ester is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1.8, more preferably between 1.5 and 1 7. 8. Composition according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that n = 20 to 30. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the molecular weight of the dextrin ester is between 10,000 and 30,000, preferably between 15,000 and 20,000.  10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxylated triglycerides, synthetic alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms. carbon, esters of C4-22 fatty acids, in particular castor oil.  11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that

 [4 (5d-5due) 2 + (5p-5p) 2 + (joh-Che) 2] 1/2 :::; 8. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that [4 (yod-5de) 2 + (top ~ CPe) 2 + (5h-Che) 2] 1/2 :::; 5. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin ester of degree of substitution less than 2 is present in an amount ranging from 1 to 50% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase. 14. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 is present in an amount ranging from 2 to 25%, preferably from 5 to 25%, more preferably from 10 to 25% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase. <Desc / Clms Page number 14>  15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains, in addition, at least one dyestuff, selected from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof. 16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a proportion of 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 25%. 17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additive selected from water, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, dispersants, fillers, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, waxes and mixtures thereof. 18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in solid or semi-solid form. 19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rigid gel, including stick. 20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, contour pencil for eyes, foundation, lipstick, deodorant or makeup remover, product body makeup, eye shadow or cheek, anti-ring product, shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen composition, facial and body care product. 21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick of lipstick, lip balm, lip gloss or composition to be applied to a film of red to lips. 22. Use of a dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit in a composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, said fatty phase containing an oil or a mixture of oils which has parameters of solubility 5d, #p and #h satisfying the following conditions: [4 (5d- #de) 2 + (5p- #pe) 2 + (5h- #he) 2] 1/2 3 10 #de, #pe and #he being the solubility parameters of the dextrin ester, to increase the brightness of the composition and / or to improve the stability of the composition. 23. Use of a dextrin ester with a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit in a composition containing a continuous liquid fatty phase and pigments for improving the homogeneity of the deposition of the composition, in particular the homogeneity of its color.