WO2010136657A1

WO2010136657A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition made from a combination of four plant extracts and the uses thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2010136657A1
Application number: PCT/FR2009/000617
Authority: WO
Inventors: Roger Renou; Isabelle Thuillier-Plessier; Marie-Laure Nicolas
Original assignee: C.F.E.B. Sisley
Priority date: 2009-05-27
Filing date: 2009-05-27
Publication date: 2010-12-02

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions including a combination of four plant extracts. The invention relates to a method for cosmetic and/or dermatological treatment of at least one keratin material, in particular skin, hair and nails, including applying a composition according to the invention to said material, as well as the use of the combination of four plant extracts as an anti-ageing agent, in particular as a repairing and/or protecting agent in a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition.

Description

COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED

A COMBINATION OF 4 VEGETABLE EXTRACTS

AND ITS USES

DESCRIPTION

Technical area

The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising a combination of four plant extracts. The invention relates to a process for the cosmetic and / or dematological treatment of at least one keratin material, in particular the skin and the integuments, comprising the application to said material of a composition according to the invention, as well as the use of the combination of the four plant extracts as an anti-aging agent, especially as a repairing agent and / or protective agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

In the description below, references in brackets [] refer to the list of references at the end of the text.

State of the art

The aging of the skin and superficial body growths in particular causes changes in the structure and / or cutaneous functions.

The main clinical signs of aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, the loss of firmness and radiance of the complexion, and the decrease in the hydration of the epidermis.

Among the factors likely to be responsible for this aging, free radicals are mainly mentioned. These arise in part from molecular oxygen and may be induced by atmospheric pollutants and / or ultraviolet radiation. Many compositions have already been developed in order to actively combat free radicals and the oxidation reactions they generate. There may be mentioned, for example, compositions based on vitamins A, C or E, those based on polyphenols (in particular of plant origin), or even compositions based on quinoline and its derivatives. Amino acid compositions have also been used for their antioxidant action. These amino acids have the disadvantage of being very rapidly metabolized in cells and thus have a very low efficiency. To date, the known compositions do not solve the problems of aging due to inadequate repair and / or protection (s). Much progress is still to be made in order to have assets with satisfactory and even optimal repair and / or protection properties. There is therefore still a need for a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition that effectively combats the aging of the skin and the integuments, in particular by a restorative and / or protective action against aggressions.

Description of the invention

The present invention is specifically intended to meet this need by providing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being: (a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L. or rice, (b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled,

(c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L or white willow, and

(d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L or alkekenge.

The plant extract (a) can be advantageously obtained from the rice grains. The plant extract (b) can be advantageously obtained from the seeds of small spelled.

The plant extract (c) is advantageously obtained from white willow leaves. The plant extract (d) is advantageously obtained from calyxes of physalis.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprises a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being: (a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L. or rice obtained from grains of rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled obtained from the seeds of small spelled,

(c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L or white willow obtained from white willow leaves, and

(d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L or alkekenge obtained from calyxes of physalis.

The combination of the 4 plant extracts according to the invention as well as the composition comprising it, will make it possible to combat aging of the skin and integuments, in particular by a restorative and / or protective action.

In the context of the invention, the term "skin" means the body which surrounds the body and which consists of several layers of tissue: - the epidermis (superficial layer),

the dermis (intermediate layer), and

- the hypodermis (deep layer).

Thus, the term skin applies in particular to the face, the lips, the eye contour, the neck, the body and / or the scalp. The term "appendages" according to the invention encompasses all protective epidermal productions present on the surface of the body, in particular the hairs, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and / or hair.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the combination of the 4 plant extracts according to the invention as well as the composition comprising it will make it possible to combat the aging of the skin by a repairing and / or protective action, in particular the aging of the face. , lips, eye area, neck, body and / or scalp. By "aging" of the skin is meant in particular any modification of the external appearance of the skin, such as, for example, the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, the loss of firmness and radiance of the complexion and the decrease in the skin's appearance. hydration of the epidermis.

According to one aspect of the invention, the combination of 4 plant extracts and a composition comprising it have a restorative action keratin materials and, in addition, a protective action against external aggression. The use of this combination or a composition containing it, will allow keratin materials to be better repaired and better protected from stress that the environment produces.

The term "external aggression" refers to the aggressions that the environment can produce. By way of example, mention may be made of aggressions such as pollution and UV radiation.

The plant extracts of the invention can be obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art usually used in this field and adapted to the plant extracts of the invention. These methods include, for example, extraction processes with a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, at least one alcohol, at least one organic solvent, or their mixture; the process of extraction by steam distillation or hydro-distillation; the extraction process by mechanical process or by supercritical CO ₂ , or by molecular distillation.

The extracts according to the invention are advantageously aqueous or hydroglycolic extracts. For example, the extract of calyxes of physalis can be obtained by solubilization of the calyxes of physalis, in particular reduced to powder, in a solvent, in particular chosen from water, alcohols comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol, as well as a mixture of these solvents. In particular, the chalices of physalis are solubilized in water.

The solution of calyxes of physalis can be treated enzymatically, in particular by at least one protease, in particular at a temperature ranging from 15 to 45 ° C. The protease may be for example an endo- and / or exo-peptidase of plant origin (papain, bromelain).

The soluble and insoluble phases can be separated, for example by filtration, decantation or centrifugation or a combination of these means.

In particular, the dispersion or solution of calyxes of physalis may undergo a heat treatment, in particular intended to inactivate the enzymes used. Those skilled in the art will know how to adapt the heat treatment to the enzyme used. As a result of this heat treatment it is possible to carry out a filtration, for example in order to separate the inactive enzymes. The solution can be concentrated, in particular by evaporation. The solution _you ou_Je_solide _^ _^ résultant__peu_Uêtre sterilized .-- _In. In the case of a solution, the sterilization can be carried out by sterilizing filtration, for example by passage over a microporous membrane.

In particular, the calyx extract of physalis is an aqueous extract. In particular, 1 part by weight of chalices of dry physalis give from 1.5 to 3 parts by weight, and in particular from 2 to 2.5 parts by weight of calyx extract of Physalis.

The calyx extract of physalis can comprise a solids content ranging from 30 to 100 g / l, in particular from 40 to 80 g / l, and in particular from 45 to 65 g / l.

The calyx extract of physalis can include phenolic compounds. These phenolic compounds present in the physalis calyx extract may comprise: hydroxycinnamic compounds, especially in a content ranging from 60 to 99% by weight, in particular from 80 to 98% by weight, or even from 90 to 96% by weight; weight relative to the total weight of polyphenols, and flavones especially in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, or even 2.5 to 7% by weight relative to total weight of polyphenols.

The hydroxycinnamic compounds present in the physalis calyx extract may comprise ferulic acid, especially in a content ranging from 25 to 75% by weight, in particular from 30 to 70% by weight, or even from 40 to 60% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of hydroxycinnamic compounds.

The calyx extract of physalis can comprise a polyphenol content, expressed in gallic acid, ranging from 0.1 to 5 g / l, in particular from 0.25 to 2.5 g / l, and in particular from 0.5 at 1, 2 g / l.

Among the extracts of calyxes of physalis that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of those sold by the company Sjlak, which is in accordance with the invention and denotes physalis.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an extract content of Physalis alkekengi L. or alkenkene, ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The other plant extracts of the combination of the invention can be obtained by a process as described in [1] and [2], or else, for example, by extraction using a solvent chosen from water, alcohol, a glycol, glycerin, acetone or a mixture of these solvents. For example, it may be an aqueous or a glycolic extract. After maceration of seeds, powder or leaves of the plant concerned in a mixture of water and, for example, butylene glycol, propylene glycol or pentylene glycol, the extract is filtered.

In the case of an extract of Oryza sativa L. or rice, in particular an extract of Oryza sativa L. or rice grains, a clear yellow liquid of characteristic odor having the following analytical characteristics is obtained:

- pH (25 ° C): 5.0 to 6.0

refractive index (20 ^° C.): 1. 360 to 1.390 dry extract (105 ^° C.): 0.30 to 0.50% w / w

An extract of Oryza sativa L. or rice, usable according to the invention, can also be obtained from the company ISP-VINCIENCE, marketed under the trade name ORSIRTINE®.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an extract content of Oryza sativa L or rice, ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% by weight. at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the case of an extract of Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled, in particular a seed extract of Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled, a clear yellow liquid of characteristic odor having the following analytical characteristics is obtained:

- pH (25 ° C): 5.0 to 6.0

refractive index (20 ^° C.): 1.365 to 1.375

- dry extract (105X): 0.40 to 0.80% m / m An extract of Triticum monococcum L or small spelled, usable according to the invention can also be obtained from the company ISP - VINCIENCE under the trade name PHYTOQUINTESCINE ^®

The composition according to the invention may comprise an extract content of Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the case of an extract of Salix alba L or white willow, especially an extract of leaves of Salix alba L. or white willow, we obtain a brown liquid of characteristic odor having the following analytical characteristics:

- pH (25 ° C): 4.5 to 6.0

refractive index (20 ^° C.): 1.348 to 1.354

- dry extract (105 ⁰ C): 4.00 to 6.50% m / m - Water content: 88.50 to 91, 50% m / m

An extract of Salix alba L. White willow or used according to the invention may also be obtained from the company Silab under the trade name ASTRESSYL ^® GR.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an extract content of Salix alba L. or white willow ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The methods and apparatus used to determine the analytical characteristics of said extracts can thus be described: - Measurement of the pH at 25 ° C.

-Pχincipjej-_Le_p.H- ^ _^ sUa_mesuie quLreprésente conventionally the hydrogen ion concentration of an aqueous solution.

Specific equipment: Seven-Multi Mettler Toledo pH meter with a combination penetration electrode of the InLab 427 type or equivalent. Method: Immerse the measuring electrode in the test substance at

25 ° C. When the pH value is stable, record this value. - Measurement of the refractive index at 20 ^° C.

Principle: The refractive index of an airborne medium is equal to the ratio of the sinus of the angle of incidence of a light ray in the air to the sine of the refracted angle of refraction. in the medium in question. In this method, the refractive index is determined at 20 ^° C. ± 1 ° C. and is based on the sodium D line.

Specific material: Abbe refractometer with crystal thermostatic at 20 ⁰ C ± 1 ° C. Method: Deposit a drop of the sample to be examined at 20 ⁰ ± 1 ° C on the prism of the refractometer. Adjust the refractometer and read the measured value.

- Determination of the percentage of dry extract Principle: The dry extract represents the percentage of all the substances which do not volatilize with respect to the substances of the test portion of a sample. The substance to be examined is placed in an oven at 105 ° C ± 2 ° C for 12h ± 2h. Specific equipment: oven at 105 ⁰ ± 2 ° C Memmert type or equivalent. Method: Take a tare flask, remove all traces of water by putting it at least 1 hour in an oven at 105 ⁰ C and then in the desiccator the time of cooling. Make the bottle tare. Introduce approximately exactly 1g of the substance to be examined. Put in the oven at 105 ⁰ ± 2 ° C. After 12 hours (more or less 2 hours) remove the bottle and cool in the desiccator. Weigh the vial and calculate the mass of the substance being examined.

- Measurement of water content by the Karl Fisher method Principle: The Hydranal reagent is a solution of iodine (I ₂ ) and sulfur dioxide (SO ₂ ) in methanol (CH ₃ OH). In the absence of water the reagent is stable, but in the presence of water, the sulfur dioxide is oxidized to trioxide or sulfuric acid by the iodine following the reaction: I ₂ + SO ₂ + 2H ₂ O -> 2Hl + H ₂ SO ₄

Iodine and sulfur dioxide react with each other in the presence of water. As long as the solution contains water, the polarization of the cathode is opposed to the passage of the current; the drop of reagent titrant in excess brings free iodine which causes depolarization of the cathode and allows the passage of a current detected by a suitable electrical device.

Specific device: Karl Fisher 701 KF Automatic Titrimeter or equivalent. Method: 1 ml of titrant corresponds to approximately 5 mg of water. Put in the device a test portion of the product to be analyzed so as to consume about 4 mL of titrant reagent. Check the tightness of the system and start the dosing.

The composition according to the invention may be in any form known to those skilled in the field of cosmetics and / or dermatology for application to the skin, in particular the face, the lips, the eye contour, the neck, body and / or scalp and / or integuments, in particular hairs, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and / or hair. Thus, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of: an aqueous or alcoholic solution or suspension of the lotion or serum type, an emulsion of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil in water emulsion: O / W) or conversely (water in oil: EJH), an O / W or W / O cream emulsion, a gel, or a gel-emulsion, a mask, - an anhydrous product such as an oil, a balm, a powder. The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of a foam or in a form suitable for aerosol also comprising a propellant under pressure.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for the skin, in particular for the care of the skin, in particular the face, the lips, the eye contour, the neck, the body and / or scalp.

The composition may then be, for example, an O / W or W / O emulsion, of the milk or cream type. The composition according to the invention, when it is in the form of an O / W emulsion, comprises an aqueous phase which forms the continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase can then essentially or exclusively include water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and organic solvents miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ⁰ C) such as alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms chosen from the group comprising ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol, and alkylene glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol and its derivatives, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ketones having 3 to 4 carbon atoms and polyols selected from the group consisting of glycerine.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible organic solvents) may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, in particular ranging from 10 to 90% by weight, and in particular ranging from 60 to 85% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may further comprise gelling agents / stabilizers such as gums, synthetic polymers and their derivatives. To form an O / W emulsion, a fatty or oily phase is dispersed in said aqueous phase. This fatty or oily phase is generally present in a smaller amount, for example ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The fatty or oily phase may comprise a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (20 ^° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. This liquid fatty substance may be chosen from volatile oils or not. It may comprise, for example, at least one silicone oil as defined later, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil as defined later, or a mixture of these oils. The oily or oily phase may also comprise a solid fatty substance at ambient temperature (20 ^° C.) and at atmospheric pressure such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. The fatty phase may also contain gelling agents / stabilizers and structuring oils of organic nature and / or lipophilic organic solvents.

The composition according to the invention, when in the W / O emulsion form, comprises a fatty or oily phase which forms the continuous phase of the composition. The fatty phase may comprise at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure and / or at least one solid substance that is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. The fatty phase may also contain gelling agents / stabilizers and structuring oils of organic nature and / or lipophilic organic solvents. The fatty phase may include, but is not limited to, a fatty-liquid-to-liquid-at-the-least volatile or nonvolatile oil or mixture thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (20 ^° C.) and atmospheric pressure. The oils The volatile compounds of the invention may be volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.01 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40,000). Pa) and in particular greater than 0.3 mm Hg (40 Pa).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature (20 ^° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa). ). These volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of plant origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl ^® ^®, branched esters, C8- C16 such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with less than or equal to 8 centistokes (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), are used as volatile oils. in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

When the composition according to the invention comprises a volatile oil, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 98% by weight, in particular from 1 to 65% by weight, and in particular from 2 to 50% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be made of:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane,

hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; ; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, plum, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond oil palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, safflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois; or alternatively hydrogenated triglycerides of vegetable origin, for example derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane and their mixtures; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R 1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid having 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil. (keto stearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of alcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononanoate isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, and 2 undecylpentadecanol,

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethyloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes. and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates.

The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 85% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 70% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More generally, the fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 90% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the fatty phase. Regarding solid fat at room temperature

(20 ⁰ C) and at atmospheric pressure, it can be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. This solid fatty substance may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty compound at ambient temperature (approximately 20 ^° C.).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means fatty substances capable of melting in contact with the skin, for example bodies having a melting point ranging from 25 ° to 45 ° C.

More particularly, these fatty substances may be hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), in majority proportion.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20- 55 ⁰ C, such as stearyl dimethicone, in particular that sold by Dow Corning under the trade name DC 2503 ^® Cosmetic Wax. The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight, and in particular ranging from 0.2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise a wax.

The wax may be solid at ambient temperature (20 ^° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than 30 ^° C. and up to 200 ^° C., a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. It can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It may be chosen for example from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes, and microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.

The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and especially from 0.2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from

0.1 to 30% by weight, and in particular 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

These surfactants may be chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-

Othmer ", Volume 22, p.333-432, ^3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 this reference. for my surfactants. anionic and nonionic.

In particular, the surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants such as derivatives of fatty acids and fatty alcohols and glycolized derivatives. The composition of the invention may further comprise an additional particulate phase which may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 30% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 20% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may in particular comprise at least one pigment and / or at least one nacre and / or at least one additional filler used in the cosmetic compositions. By pigments, it is necessary to understand white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent and / or colored particles, obtained mainly by synthesis. By charges, it is necessary to include colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles.

As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, particular mention may be made of D & C type pigments and lacquers on a barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum support. The quantity and / or the choice of these pigments are generally adjusted taking into account the destination of the composition.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.

Nacres can be used as mica-titanium (mica coated with titanium dioxide), colored nacres such as mica with iron oxides.

The additional fillers may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may in particular be possibly spherical fillers such as, for example, talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon ^® ) powders (Orgasol ^® ), polyethylene powders, polyvinyl powders, methyl methacrylate (methyl methacrylate crosspolymer), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon ^®), starch, boron nitride, polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ^®, copolymers of acrylic (Polytrap ^® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls ^® from Toshiba, for example), and organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The composition may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01 to 6% by weight, especially ranging from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and FD & C blue i.

The composition according to the invention may, moreover, comprise all the ingredients conventionally used in the fields concerned and more particularly in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. These ingredients are in particular chosen from vitamins and derivatives, antioxidants, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, UV filters, essential oils. _τ hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents and mixtures thereof. The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields concerned and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Of course, thanks to his knowledge, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional complementary compounds, and / or their amount, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition considered.

The composition according to the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics and / or in dermatology.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion. It can also be in the form of a product cast in a stick, in a pot or in a dish such as lipsticks or lip balms, cast foundations, concealer products, "correctors"

And / or "beautifiers" of complexion and eyeshadows or cheeks, a compacted product. The composition according to the invention may especially be a care composition for the skin, in particular the face, the lips, the eye contour, the neck, the body and / or the scalp and / or the dander, in particular the hairs. , eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and / or hair.

Said composition may optionally comprise at least one photoprotective system.

The composition according to the invention may also be a sunscreen composition, in particular for the skin and / or integuments, comprising a photoprotective system.

In these compositions, the photoprotective system may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 30% by weight, or even from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

This photoprotective system may comprise at least one hydrophilic organic filter, at least one lipophilic organic filter and / or at least one mineral pigment. The filters may be chosen from N ₁ N, N-trimethyl [(oxo-2-bornborn-3-yl) methyl] -4-anilinium methyl sulfate; homosalate (INN); oxybenzone (INN); 2-phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts; 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2,2,1] hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and its salts; 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; alpha- (oxo-2-bomylidene-3) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts; 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid; 2-ethylhexyl (octocrylene) ester; N - {(2 and 4) - [(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl] benzyl} acrylamide polymer; octyl methoxycinnamate; ethoxylated ethyl-4-aminobenzoate (PEG-25 PABA); isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate); 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl triazone); phenol, 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- (2-methyl-3- (1,,3,3,3-tetramethyl) -1- (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl)) (drometrizole trisiloxane); benzoic acid, 4,4 - ((6- (((1,1-dimethyl) ethylamino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) 1,3,5, -triazine-2,4-diyl) diimino) bis- bis (2-ethylhexyl) ester); 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d-1 camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor); 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor); 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate); 2-ethylhexyl-N-dimethylamino-benzoate (octyl dimethyl PABA); 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid (benzophenone-5) and its sodium salt; 2,2'-methylene-bis-6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (tetramethyl-butyl) -1,1,3,3-phenol; the monosodium salt of 2-2'-bis (1,4-phenylene) 1H-benzimiadazole-4,6-disulphonic acid; (1,3,5) -triazine-2,4-bis ([4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl) -6- (4-methoxyphenyl); the diméthicqdiéthylbenza] malonate_ (CAS 2075 _74-74-1.). the titanium dioxide; benzoic acid, 2 - [- 4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] -hexyl ester (INCI name: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, CAS No. 302776-68-7). The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one agent for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin (self-tanning agents), for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

The composition according to the invention may comprise an artificial tanning agent and / or browning content of the skin ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and especially ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a skincare and / or makeup product for the skin and / or integuments. It can also be incorporated into a cabin care protocol.

It can also be used in night care in combination with a day care. The care of the day may be for example the product "AII Day AII Year" marketed by the company C.F.E.B. Sisley.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of at least one keratin material, in particular the skin and the integuments, comprising the application to said material of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. This method may comprise the application of said composition at least once a day, for example in the evening.

This method may also comprise the application of said composition, at least once a day, in the two to ten days preceding exposure to the sun, in particular as part of a preventive action and / or preparation of the skin to sun exposure.

According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is also the use of a combination of 4 plant extracts according to the invention, said extracts being:

(a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L or rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L or small spelled, (c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L. or white willow, and

(d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L or alkekenge, as anti-aging agent, especially as a repairing agent and / or protective agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic, composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of 4 plant extracts according to the invention, said extracts being:

(a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L. or rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled, (c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L. or white willow, and

(d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L. or alkekenge, for the preparation of a dermatological composition intended to prevent or treat aging of the skin and / or superficial body growths, in particular by a restorative action and / or protective.

Brief description of the figures

FIG. 1 represents a histological section of skin explants without UVB irradiation and without formula A or B, observed under a microscope (× 40) after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining.

FIG. 2 represents a histological section of skin explants subjected to UVB irradiations and without formula A or B, observed under a microscope (× 40) after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining.

FIG. 3 represents a histological section of skin explants with UVB irradiations and with formula A, observed under a microscope (× 40) after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining.

FIG. 4 represents a histological section of skin explants with UVB irradiations and with formula B, observed under a microscope (× 40) after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining. EXAMPLES

Example 1 Composition according to the invention

Restorative and protective cream

The amounts indicated are given as a percentage of weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Operating mode:

- Prepare phase A and heat it up to 75 ⁰ C.

- Prepare phase B. When homogeneous, add it to phase A and stir gently.

- Prepare phase C in the melter. - 5 min before emulsion, introduce the phase D in the phases A + B with stirring.

- Aspirate phase C in phases A + B + D. Then make the emulsion with vigorous stirring at 75 ° C. - Prepare phase E under strong stirring then incorporate it.

- Start the cooling with slow stirring.

- Prepare phase F, then incorporate it at 40 ^° C.

- Prepare phase G, then incorporate it at 35 ° C.

- Then prepare phase H and incorporate it at 35 ° C. - Prepare phase I, then incorporate it at 30 ^° C.

- Finish cooling to 25 ° C with slow stirring.

EXAMPLE 2 Ex Vivo Studies of the Repairing and Protective Effect of a Cream According to the Invention Comprising the Combination of the Four Vegetable Extracts

Support Biopsies of 6 mm taken from a woman aged 49 years.

Products tested

Formula A (composition according to the invention): Complete formula with the combination of the four plant extracts

Formula B (Placebo): Complete formula without the combination of the four plant extracts

Procedure The skin biopsies or explants were kept in contact (at the level of the epidermis) with 20μL of the formulas A and B, during 24 hours. These same explants were then subjected to UVB irradiation at a dose of 100 mJ / cm ² , then again kept in contact with 20 μl of formulas A and B for 24 hours.

After these 48 hours, histological sections were made from these biopsies, and observed under a microscope (x40) after Hematoxylin and Eosin staining.

Description of studies

Study 1: Study "negative control" (skin explants without irradiation UVB and without formula A or B)

Study 2: "Positive control" study (skin explants exposed to UVB irradiation and without formula A or B)

Study 3: Study of the effect of the cosmetic composition containing the combination of the four plant extracts (skin explants with UVB irradiation and with formula A)

Study 4: Study of the "placebo" effect (skin explants with UVB irradiation and with formula B)

Observations and results

Study 1 (See Figure 1): Skin without alteration or sign of degeneration

Study 2 (See Figure 2): Skin showing signs of degeneration characteristic of UVB damage ("sun burn cells" and vacuoles) Study 3 (See Figure 3): Skin with little sign of degeneration characteristic of UVB damage ("sun burn cells" and vacuoles)

Study 4 (See Figure 4): Skin showing signs of degeneration characteristic of UVB damage ("sun burn cells" and vacuoles)

Conclusion of studies

After external aggression including UV radiation, especially UVB, studies reveal that the control skin has usual signs of aggression (vacuoles, sunburn cells, and degeneration) (see Figure 2).

In contrast, the skin treated with formula A according to the invention (see FIG. 3) reveals a high level of protection against UVB aggression. This skin has significantly fewer vacuoles, sun burn cells, and has retained a normal morphology. (See Figure 3 versus Figure 4),

It can be estimated that the combination of the four plant extracts decreased UVB-induced damage by approximately 60% (see Figure 3 versus Figure 2), which confirms its remarkable restorative and protective effect. List of references

[1] WO 2007/077318 [2] WO 2006/024790

Claims

Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being: (a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L. or rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled,

(c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L. or white willow, and

(d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L. or alkekenge.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the plant extract

(a) is obtained from the grains of rice.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the plant extract (b) is obtained from the seeds of small spelled.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the plant extract (c) is obtained from white willow leaves.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the plant extract (d) obtained from calyxes of physalis.

6. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being:

(a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L. or rice obtained from the grains of rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled obtained from the seeds of small spelled, (c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L. or white willow obtained from the leaves of willow white, and (d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L or alkekenge obtained from calyxes of physalis.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising an extract content of Oryza sativa L or rice, ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising an extract content of Triticum monococcum L. or small spelled from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising an extract content of Salix alba L or white willow ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims comprising an extract of Physalis alkekengi L or alkenkeng content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 in the form of an O / W emulsion.

12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, said composition being in the form of a skincare product and / or skinned skin and / or superficial integuments.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, said composition being a sunscreen composition for the skin and / or superficial body growths, comprising a photoprotective system.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, said composition being incorporated into a caring protocol in the cabin.

15. Use of a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being:

(a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L or rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L or small spelled,

(c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L or white willow, and (d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L. or alkekenge, as a repairing agent and / or protective agent in a cosmetic composition .

16. Use of a combination of 4 plant extracts, said extracts being:

(a) a plant extract of the species Oryza sativa L or rice,

(b) a plant extract of the species Triticum monococcum L or small spelled,

(c) a plant extract of the species Salix alba L. or white willow, and (d) a plant extract of the species Physalis alkekengi L. or alkekenge, for the preparation of a dermatological composition for preventing or treating the aging of the skin and / or the integuments, in particular by a restorative and / or protective action.

17. A process for the cosmetic treatment of at least one keratin material, especially the skin and superficial body growths, comprising the application to said material of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.