EP3859063B1 - Elastisches leinengarn - Google Patents

Elastisches leinengarn Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3859063B1
EP3859063B1 EP20207817.6A EP20207817A EP3859063B1 EP 3859063 B1 EP3859063 B1 EP 3859063B1 EP 20207817 A EP20207817 A EP 20207817A EP 3859063 B1 EP3859063 B1 EP 3859063B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
roving
elastic
cylinders
linen
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP20207817.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3859063C0 (de
EP3859063A1 (de
Inventor
Pierluigi FUSCO GIRARD
Roberto CAPELLI
Eugenio PISCOPO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Linificio E Canapificio Nazionale Benefit Srl Soc
Original Assignee
Linificio E Canapificio Nazionale Benefit Srl Soc
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Publication of EP3859063A1 publication Critical patent/EP3859063A1/de
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Publication of EP3859063B1 publication Critical patent/EP3859063B1/de
Publication of EP3859063C0 publication Critical patent/EP3859063C0/de
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/06—Wet spinning methods
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/02—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from cellulose, cellulose derivatives, or proteins
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a linen yarn which is highly spinnable and with good elasticity and characterized by hygroscopicity, lightness, shine, permeability to air, antibacterial properties and mite-inhibiting properties.
  • the invention also relates to fabrics obtained therefrom characterized by softness, high transpiration, ability to absorb sweat, antibacterial properties and good elasticity.
  • Flax is an upright stemmed plant with smooth leaves and white or blue flowers which produce a capsule containing ten seeds.
  • the botanical name thereof, Linum usitatissimum indicates the most widely used type of flax. Lightly branched and with small flowers, the long-staple variety reaches a height of 80-120 cm and is grown to produce fiber.
  • the plant is uprooted from the ground in order to use the maximum length of the stalk and roots.
  • the stalks undergo a series of processes to free the fibers from the rubbery substances binding them and to separate them from the wood residues and seeds.
  • the number of fiber bundles present in the bark varies from 20 to 50 per stalk.
  • Maceration is a natural process which serves to break up the pectins, i.e., those rubbery substances enveloping the fibers, bringing them together in bundles and making them adhere to the cells of the bark.
  • the pectins must be eliminated in order for the technical fibers, an agglomeration of elementary fibers collated by pectins and waxes, to be separated from the rest of the stalk.
  • the maceration is due to special enzymes produced by micro-organisms (bacteria) which proliferate in the stalks spread on the fields after the uprooting (ground maceration) or soaked in water (water maceration).
  • the mechanical separation of the technical textile fibers from the rest of the macerated stalks is obtained by scutching.
  • the scutched "long-staple" flax must be “combed” by means of combing machines which remove the impurities and shorter fibers.
  • the combed fiber in web form is then mixed and refined by means of drawing frames to form, by means of a spindle bench, a roving which is wound on special spools and is hot bleached.
  • the fiber is ready for spinning, which can be dry or wet, in the latter case by immersing the fiber in water at 25-30°C and passing it to the spinning machine to obtain thin and regular threads.
  • the weaving of the linen yarn leads to a fabric composed of 70% cellulose, solid, resistant to tearing and wear, hardly elastic and which does not lose the shape thereof. It has antistatic properties, absorbs moisture and lets skin breathe. Linen is so resistant that on average it withstands 35% more washes than cotton.
  • Linen yarns have been obtained by twisting or spiraling the linen yarn about an elastic fiber, but such yarns have shown a non-optimal behavior towards dyeing, since the color of the fabric is uneven.
  • the problem addressed by the present invention is therefore that of providing a linen yarn which has good elasticity, but which retains the original color-taking properties unaltered during the dyeing process.
  • the object of the invention is an elastic linen yarn, comprising a core consisting of an elastic thread (E) embedded in an outer linen-based body,characterized in that the outer linen-based body consists of an intimate mixture of linen from 77% to 85% by weight and nylon fiber from 15% to 23% by weight and in which the elastic yarn is preferably a polyurethane elastomer, more preferably Elastane.
  • E elastic thread
  • Another object of the invention is a fabric made with the elastic linen yarn of the invention and garments, such as jackets, trousers or skirts, made with this fabric.
  • a further object of the invention is a wet spinning method for manufacturing the elastic linen yarn, comprising the following steps:
  • Still another object of the invention is a wet-spinner for spinning the elastic linen yarn of the invention, comprising a plurality of spinning units, in which each spinning unit comprises, in the order from top to bottom:
  • the elastic linen yarn according to the present invention comprises a core 2 consisting of an elastic thread embedded in an outer linen-based body 3.
  • outer linen-based body means a thread body consisting of 100% linen or an intimate mixture of linen and nylon fiber.
  • the outer linen-based body 3 consists of an intimate mixture comprising linen from 77% to 85% by weight and nylon fiber from 15% and 23% by weight.
  • the elastic thread forming the core 2 is a polyurethane elastic fiber, more preferably Elastane (known by the brand name Lycra ® ).
  • the elastic linen yarn 1 of the invention comprises a percentage of elastic yarn by weight from 5% to 15%, more preferably from 8% to 10%.
  • the elastic linen yarn 1 of the invention has a spinning yarn count from 24 to 28, preferably about 26 Nm (where Nm is the metric number, i.e., the number of kilometers of yarn needed to reach the weight of 1 kg) and has an average breaking strength from 500 to 600 g (standard ISO 2062) and an average elongation at break from 4% to 50 (standard ISO 2062) .
  • the elastic linen yarn 1 of the invention is homogeneous to dyeing both in the form of yarn and fabric, i.e., there are no chromatic inhomogeneities due to a different degree of color-taking between the linen fiber and the elastic yarn, unlike what occurs with elastic linen yarns which are twisted, covered or spiraled according to the background art. This is due to the fact that the elastic thread core 2 is completely embedded in the outer linen-based body 3, as can be obtained with the method described below.
  • the method for preparing the elastic linen yarn 1 according to the present invention is a wet spinning method and comprises the following steps:
  • Step a) can be carried out in accordance with known methods which include the maceration of the flax stalks to obtain the fibers therefrom, the combing of the fibers to remove the impurities and the shorter fibers, which will form the tow, the formation of the roving on special spools using a spindle bench and bleaching by boiling in the presence of bleaching substances.
  • the term "roving” means a very light linen web to which has been imparted, by means of the spindle bench, a small twist per meter (about 30-35 RPM). This twist prevents the roving from opening irregularly during the subsequent spinning stages, giving rise to uncontrolled elongations.
  • "long-staple" linen fibers are used, i.e., fibers with a length of about 70 cm.
  • the wet spinning process according to the invention allows to have very fine counts and to produce a yarn with high features.
  • the roving spool is previously wetted before being mounted on the spinning machine.
  • the steps b), c) and d) are carried out on a spinning machine 100, shown in figures 1-4 , of the type usable for the wet spinning of linen, but which has been specifically designed for the method of the invention.
  • the spinning machine 100 comprises a supply creel 101, visible in cross-section in figure 1 , having the shape of a long rack which supports a plurality of spinning units 102 arranged specularly on both longitudinal sides 101a, 101b of the creel 101.
  • the supply creel 101 comprises a lower portion 101' and an upper portion 101", in which said upper portion 101" projects outwards, in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal sides 101a, 101b, with respect to the lower portion 101'.
  • Each spinning unit 102 comprises a suspension bar 103 for the spools 104 on which the roving is wound.
  • the suspension bars 103 are fixed specularly on a central structure 105 which comprises a base 106 for support on the ground.
  • the suspension bar 103 also supports a guide roller 107 for the roving S unwound from the spool 104.
  • a support 108 is positioned for a pair of motorized rollers 109a, 109b which act on a reel 110 of elastic thread E - which will form the core 2 of the yarn of the invention - for the winding thereof.
  • the motorized rollers 109a, 109b are moved by a gearmotor (not shown) operated by an inverter which in turn receives the consent to operate from the control motor of the drafting assembly (not shown).
  • the tension of the elastic thread can be adjusted by means of the inverter.
  • a tray 111 filled with warm water, for wetting the roving S On the central structure 105 there is further fixed, under the support 108 for the pair of motorized rollers 109a, 109b, a tray 111 filled with warm water, for wetting the roving S.
  • a motorized cylinder 112 is immersed in the tray 111, synchronized with the unwinding speed of the roving S from the spool 104, configured so as to assist the unwinding of the roving S and to direct the roving S so that it is immersed in the water and is therefore subjected to re-wetting.
  • the edge 111a of the tray 111 allows the roving S to be redirected towards the drafting zone.
  • the drafting zone 113 is positioned below the tray 111, better visible in figure 2 .
  • the term "drafting zone” means the member which performs the function of drafting and opening the fibers of the roving immediately upstream of the transformation thereof into yarn.
  • the drafting zone 113 comprises a support structure 114, which departs from the central structure 105 of the creel 101 and which comprises in sequence a first pair of cylinders 115, referred to as “retaining cylinders”, a second pair of cylinders 116, referred to as “pre-drafting cylinders”, and a third pair of cylinders 117, referred to as "drafting cylinders”.
  • the pairs of cylinders 115, 116, 117 each comprise a motorized cylinder 115a, 116a, 117a and an idle pressure cylinder 115b, 116b, 117b, configured so as to be coupled to each other and so as to allow to drive the pressure cylinder 115b, 116b, 117b by means of the controlled rotation of the motorized cylinder 115a, 116a, 117a.
  • the rotation speed of the third pair of cylinders 117 is greater than the rotation speed of the first pair of cylinders 115, so as to produce a drafting of the fibers forming the roving S.
  • the motorized cylinder 115a of the first pair of cylinders 115 is knurled on the surface, while the motorized cylinders 116a, 117b of the second and third pair of cylinders 116, 117 have a smooth surface.
  • the pressure cylinder 117b of the third pair of cylinders 117 has an elastic surface made of rubber or other elastomer.
  • the pressure cylinders 116b, 117b of the second and third pair of cylinders 116, 117 have a knurled surface.
  • the roving S passes through said pairs of cylinders 115, 116, 117, as shown in figures 2 and 3 , so that the unwinding of the roving S is controlled by the first pair of cylinders 115, the second pair of cylinders 116 starts the opening and control of the fibers of the roving S and the third pair of cylinders 117 completes this action.
  • the support structure 114 of the drafting zone 113 also comprises a guide roller 118 for the elastic thread E which slides outside the first and second pair of cylinders 115, 116.
  • the guide roller 118 is idly mounted and comprises a base ring 118a from which a truncated cone-shaped body 118b protrudes, flaring away from the base ring 118a.
  • the elastic thread E is kept at the connection groove 118c between the base ring 118a and the truncated cone-shaped portion 118b.
  • the elastic thread E can be suitably centered on the roving S at the third pair of cylinders 117, the elastic thread E being introduced immediately upstream of said third pair of cylinders 117, as shown in figure 4 .
  • a balance wheel member 119 comprising an abutment rod 119a for the elastic thread E, so as to keep it tensioned before the passage on the guide roller 118 and subsequently between the third pair of cylinders 117. The latter adjust the unwinding of the elastic thread E in synchrony with the roving S.
  • the roving S in which the fibers have been opened and drafted to form a substantially flat web and onto which, in a central position, the elastic thread E is coupled, is wound on the rotating spindle 120 configured so as to apply a twist to the roving S, thus transforming it into the elastic yarn 1 of the invention.
  • This twist causes the linen fibers or an intimate mixture of linen and other natural, artificial or synthetic fibers to be wound onto the elastic thread E, which then remains embedded in the outer linen-based body 3 to form the core 2 thereof.
  • the result is a yarn which combines the properties of linen, including good dye-taking, with an appreciable elasticity.
  • the rotation speed of the spindle 120 is preferably from 6000 to 7000 rpm, more preferably about 6500 rpm.
  • the elastic yarn 1 can subsequently be woven according to conventional techniques, preferably by shuttle weaving, obtaining a fabric with a regular, smooth, clean, soft and flexible appearance, particularly adapted to dyeing and characterized by high freshness, antibacterial properties and limited aptitude to wrinkling.
  • the linen-based elastic yarn 1 of the present invention can even be worked according to circular knitting techniques, having the same advantages as the fabric.
  • a heat-setting step can be carried out at a temperature of about 190°C, so as to preserve the elastic properties conferred by the core 2 of elastic thread E.
  • the fabric obtained with the elastic yarn 1 of the invention is particularly adapted to making garments, such as jackets, trousers and shirts for men or women.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Elastisches Leinengarn (1), das einen Kern (2) umfasst, der aus einem elastischen Faden (E) besteht, der in einen äußeren Körper auf Leinenbasis (3) eingebettet ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der äußere Körper auf Leinenbasis (3) aus einer innigen Mischung von 77 bis 85 Gew.-% Leinen und 15 bis 23 Gew.-% Nylonfasern besteht.
  2. Garn (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei der elastische Faden (E), der den Kern (2) bildet, eine elastische Polyurethanfaser, vorzugsweise Elastan, ist.
  3. Garn (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 2, wobei das elastische Garn (1) einen Gewichtsanteil an elastischem Faden von 5 bis 15 Gew.-% oder von 8 bis 10 Gew.-% aufweist.
  4. Garn (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, wobei das elastische Garn (1) eine Spinnfadenzahl von 24 bis 28, oder etwa 26 Nm, und eine durchschnittliche Bruchfestigkeit von 500 bis 600 g (Norm ISO 2062) und eine durchschnittliche Bruchdehnung von 4 % bis 5 % (Norm ISO 2062) aufweist.
  5. Gewebe, hergestellt aus dem elastischen Garn auf Leinenbasis (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4.
  6. Bekleidungsstück, hergestellt aus dem Gewebe nach Anspruch 5.
  7. Nassspinnverfahren zur Herstellung des elastischen Garns (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, umfassend die folgenden Schritte:
    a) Bereitstellen eines Vorgarns (S), das aus einer innigen Mischung von 77 bis 85 Gew.-% Leinen und 15 bis 23 Gew.-% Nylonfasern besteht;
    b) Befeuchten des Vorgarns (S) aus Schritt a);
    c) Bewirken, dass das nasse Vorgarn (S) aus Schritt b) zusammen mit einem elastischen Faden (E) eine Streckungszone durchläuft, die einen Rückhaltezylinder, einen Vorstreckungszylinder und einen Streckungszylinder umfasst, wobei der elastische Faden (E) am Streckungszylinder mittig mit dem Vorgarn (S) verbunden wird;
    d) Ausüben eines Dralls auf das Vorgarn (S) aus Schritt c) mittels einer rotierenden Spindel, um eine Spule mit elastischem Leinengarn (1) zu bilden.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, wobei das Leinen in dem Vorgarn (S) aus "langstapeligen" Leinenfasern mit einer Länge von etwa 70 cm besteht.
  9. Nassspinnmaschine (100) zur Durchführung des Verfahrens nach Anspruch 7 oder 8, umfassend eine Vielzahl von Spinneinheiten (101), wobei jede Spinneinheit (101) in der Reihenfolge von oben nach unten umfasst:
    - mindestens eine Spule (104), auf die das aus einer innigen Mischung von 77 bis 85 Gew.-% Leinen und 15 bis 23 Gew.-% Nylonfasern hergestellte Vorgarn (S) in Form eines Vlieses aufgewickelt wird;
    - ein Paar motorisierter Walzen (109a, 109b), die auf eine Spule (110) mit elastischem Faden E einwirken, um den elastischen Faden (E) abzuwickeln;
    - eine mit warmem Wasser gefüllte Wanne (111) zum Befeuchten des Vorgarns (S), wobei ein motorisierter Zylinder (112), der mit der Abwicklungsgeschwindigkeit des Vorgarns (S) von der Spule (104) synchronisiert ist, in die Wanne (111) eintaucht;
    - eine Streckzone (113), die nacheinander ein erstes Paar (115) von Zylindern, die als "Rückhaltezylinder" bezeichnet werden, ein zweites Paar (116) von Zylindern, die als "Vorstreckungszylinder" bezeichnet werden, und ein drittes Paar (117) von Zylindern, die als "Streckungszylinder" bezeichnet werden, umfasst, wobei die Zylinderpaare (115, 116, 117) jeweils einen motorisierten Zylinder (115a, 116a, 117a) und einen frei beweglich montierten Druckzylinder (115b, 116b, 117b) umfassen, die so konfiguriert sind, dass sie miteinander gekoppelt sind und es ermöglichen, den Druckzylinder (115b, 116b, 117b) mittels der gesteuerten Drehung des motorisierten Zylinders (115a, 116a, 117a) anzutreiben, wobei die Drehgeschwindigkeit des dritten Paars (117) von Zylindern größer ist als die Drehgeschwindigkeit des ersten Paars (115) von Zylindern, um eine Streckung der Fasern, die das Vorgarn (S) bildend, zu erzeugen;
    - eine Führungsrolle (118) für den elastischen Faden (E), die außerhalb des ersten und des zweiten Zylinderpaars (115, 116) gleitet und so konfiguriert ist, dass sie den elastischen Faden (E) unmittelbar stromaufwärts des dritten Zylinderpaars (117) und in einer zentralen Position in Bezug auf das Vlies des Vorgarns (S) zuführt;
    - eine rotierende Spindel (120), die so konfiguriert ist, dass sie einen Drall auf das Vorgarn (S) ausübt und es so in das elastische Garn (1) umwandelt.
  10. Nassspinnmaschine (100) nach Anspruch 9, wobei die Führungsrolle (118) frei beweglich angebracht ist und einen Basisring (118a) umfasst, von dem ein kegelstumpfförmiger Körper (118b) absteht, der sich vom Basisring (118a) weg erweitert, wobei zwischen dem Basisring (118a) und dem kegelstumpfförmigen Abschnitt (118b) eine Verbindungsnut (118c) zum Führen und Zentrieren des elastischen Fadens (E) auf dem Vorgarn (S) definiert ist.
EP20207817.6A 2020-02-03 2020-11-16 Elastisches leinengarn Active EP3859063B1 (de)

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EP3859063A1 EP3859063A1 (de) 2021-08-04
EP3859063B1 true EP3859063B1 (de) 2024-04-17
EP3859063C0 EP3859063C0 (de) 2024-04-17

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Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108977953A (zh) * 2017-06-01 2018-12-11 东嘉麻棉(常州)有限公司 一种亚麻湿纺弹力混纺纱
CN107740213A (zh) * 2017-11-29 2018-02-27 新申集团有限公司 一种湿纺包芯纱制作工艺
EP3502327A1 (de) * 2017-12-22 2019-06-26 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Tic. A.S. Verbundkerngarn, kleidungsstück mit einem verbundkerngarn, verfahren zur herstellung eines verbundkerngarns und verwendung eines verbundkerngarns

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EP3859063A1 (de) 2021-08-04

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