EP3755174B1 - Mobile konfiguration für ein schmuckstück - Google Patents

Mobile konfiguration für ein schmuckstück Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3755174B1
EP3755174B1 EP19711502.5A EP19711502A EP3755174B1 EP 3755174 B1 EP3755174 B1 EP 3755174B1 EP 19711502 A EP19711502 A EP 19711502A EP 3755174 B1 EP3755174 B1 EP 3755174B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
link
external
decorative element
internal frame
external link
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP19711502.5A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3755174A1 (de
Inventor
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Rotiroti DOMENICO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Original Assignee
Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Bulgari Horlogerie SA filed Critical Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Publication of EP3755174A1 publication Critical patent/EP3755174A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3755174B1 publication Critical patent/EP3755174B1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
    • A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A44C11/007—Tennis type

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches. It also concerns a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches comprising several links linked together. There are many solutions for attaching decorative stones such as precious stones to a timepiece, piece of jewelry or jewelry. However, there is a constant need to offer new solutions for decorating such pieces, including in particular a new setting of decorative stones.
  • the document EP3087862 describes a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • the present invention proposes a new solution for decorating a piece of jewelry, jewelry, or watchmaking.
  • the invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches, comprising an external mesh comprising at least one opening on a visible upper surface, an internal frame comprising a housing positioned opposite screw of the at least one opening of the external mesh and at least one decorative element visible above the external mesh, characterized in that the decorative element comprises a lower extension passing through the at least one opening of the external mesh and the housing of the internal frame for its fixation.
  • the fixing of the at least one decorative element may have play so that the at least one decorative element has an upper part of visible mobility relative to the external mesh.
  • the at least one decorative element can be fixed to the internal frame, and this internal frame can have mobility relative to the mesh external which makes it possible to transmit mobility to the at least one decorative element.
  • the decorative element may include a sphere-shaped part intended to remain visible above the external mesh.
  • the external mesh may have a shape allowing it to fit with another external mesh of identical shape positioned adjacently.
  • the lower extension of the decorative element can be fixed using a washer positioned under the internal frame.
  • the external link may have lower extensions for its articulation with another external link of identical shape.
  • the at least one opening of the external mesh may have an inclined side at its upper surface matching part of the surface of the decorative element.
  • the internal frame may have arms extending forwards and backwards to allow its nesting with another internal frame of another mesh of identical shape.
  • the external mesh can have several openings
  • the internal frame can have several housings each arranged opposite an opening of the external mesh, these housings being linked together by arms of the internal frame, and a decorative element can be fixed at the level of each opening of the external mesh linked to a housing of the internal frame so that neighboring decorative elements are almost in contact.
  • the upper surface of the external mesh may comprise a shape of several segments or portions each comprising at least one opening, each segment or portion having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to its segment(s). or neighboring portions.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, jewelry or timepieces, characterized in that it comprises several links as described above.
  • the part may comprise two adjacent meshes of which the two external meshes are articulated in their lower part and of which the arms of the two respective internal frames are nested between them.
  • the part may include relative mobility between the different meshes, the relative movement of two adjacent meshes inducing the mobility of at least one decorative element of at least one of said two meshes.
  • the piece may be a bracelet.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece, characterized in that it comprises a bracelet as described above.
  • the piece of jewelry according to the embodiment rests on an elementary mesh 1 which comprises an external mesh 10, an internal frame 20 and decorative elements 30 fixed on the external link 10 and the internal frame 20.
  • the external mesh 10 forms a loop whose upper surface is equipped with several openings 11.
  • the upper surface of the external mesh 10 comprises several segments each comprising an opening 11, each segment having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to neighboring segments, to allow an overall impression which will be detailed later in an assembly of several meshes.
  • the external mesh 10 further comprises two extensions 12 on the rear face ending in openings 13, and a lateral opening 14 in the lower part on each side of the external mesh 10.
  • This construction makes it possible to arrange two adjacent meshes so that the extensions 12 of the first are positioned at the level of the lateral openings 14 of the second, thus aligning the openings 13, 14 of the two meshes, which are assembled by an axis 15 in the lower part, allowing them to be held articulated around this axis 15.
  • Each external mesh 10 is advantageously made of a precious metal. However, any material is possible, depending on the desired aesthetic appearance.
  • the internal frame 20 comprises cylindrical portions forming housings 21 intended for positioning opposite the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, under these openings 11. It further comprises arms connecting these housings 21, which form front loops 22 extending substantially towards the front and rear loops 23 extending substantially towards the rear.
  • This internal frame 20 can also be made of a metallic material such as a precious metal or alternatively be made of any other material. Its function is to ensure cohesion of the future piece of jewelry, to guarantee a impression of mobility, as will be detailed later. It is intended to remain little or not visible inside the external meshes 10.
  • the decorative elements 30 are in the form of a sphere 31, intended to remain visible above the external mesh 10, extended by a lower extension 32, intended for accommodation in the respective openings 11 of the external mesh 10 and the housings 21 of the internal frame 20. They can be in one piece or in several parts.
  • the sphere 31 may include a precious stone, or a precious metal, etc.
  • the number of openings 11 of the external mesh 10 is such that it is possible to accommodate a maximum of decorative elements, the spheres of which 31 come close to each other.
  • the visible upper part of a decorative element could comprise any shape other than a sphere.
  • each internal frame 20 then receives a corresponding external mesh 10, so that the housings 21 of an internal frame 20 are partially housed in the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, via the interior face.
  • each opening 11 has an inclined side 16 on its upper surface, ideally in a shape close to a part of a sphere corresponding to a sphere 31 of a decorative element 30, to allow its ideal integration in support of this surface.
  • the openings 21' of the second frame 20' are positioned to receive a second external mesh, not shown, of identical shape to the first and coming into contact or quasi-contact with the first.
  • THE figures 8 to 11 illustrate a step of fixing a decorative element 30.
  • the latter is approached from above towards an opening 11 of an external mesh 10, as shown in the figure 8 , so that its lower extension 32 penetrates through this opening 11 and through the corresponding housing 21 of the internal mesh 20. Its length is such that the end of the lower extension 32 protrudes under the internal reinforcement 20, as shown on the Figure 9 .
  • a locking washer 35 is then approached from below this lower extension 32 and fixed to this lower extension by any means, for example by laser welding, to achieve the result of the Figure 10 .
  • the decorative element 30 is fixed to the piece of jewelry and can no longer be detached.
  • FIG. 11 represents the sectional view at the level of this decorative element at the end of assembly.
  • the cylindrical part forming the housing 21 of the internal frame 20 comes inside a corresponding cylindrical part in the lower part of the opening 11 of the external mesh 10, up to a stop.
  • this opening 11 presents the inclined side 16 against which the sphere 31 of the decorative element 30 comes at least partially into contact.
  • this assembly between the three components, the housing 21 of the internal frame 20, the opening 11 of the external frame 10 and the lower extension 32 of the decorative element 30, has sufficient play to allow a relative movement of these three components, and particularly produce a visual effect of movement of the sphere 31 of the decorative element relative to the external mesh 10.
  • FIG. 12 illustrates a finalized assembly of several meshes.
  • Such an assembly has the advantage of offering a visual impression of mobility of the piece of jewelry.
  • each mesh is articulated to its neighbor, in its lower part, which allows an external mesh to move away from or approach an adjacent external mesh. All the links of the piece of jewelry can thus be more or less curved.
  • the internal reinforcements 20 slow down, accompany, limit the movements in the upper part of the external meshes, the movement of which is thus slow and of controlled amplitude.
  • Such an assembly of links makes it possible to form a piece of significant length, for example to form a bracelet.
  • a piece of general undulation of the piece like the undulation of a snake, due to the articulation of all the meshes which behave like scales.
  • This undulating movement is amplified by the visible mobility of the decorative elements on the surface of the room during such undulation. What emerges is an impression of great mobility of the piece of jewelry.
  • the invention relates to a part which may be a bracelet. It thus also relates to a timepiece, such as a wristwatch, which may include such a bracelet.
  • the internal frame could take other forms. Its connection with the external mesh could be different, since it includes a part for receiving a decorative element facing an opening in the external mesh. It could also be linked to only part of the decorative elements. Certain decorative elements could thus be linked to the external mesh by any other setting.
  • This external mesh could also have another shape, for example not being completely closed.
  • the decorative elements could have another shape, and not all be identical.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (16)

  1. Glied für ein Schmuckstück, ein Juwelierstück oder eine Uhr, beinhaltend ein Außenglied (10), das mindestens eine Öffnung (11) auf einer sichtbaren oberen Oberfläche beinhaltet, einen Innenelement (20), das eine Aufnahme (21) beinhaltet, die gegenüber der mindestens einen Öffnung (11) des Außenglieds (10) angeordnet ist, und mindestens ein Dekorationselement (30), das oberhalb des Außenglieds (10) sichtbar ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Dekorationselement eine untere Verlängerung (32) beinhaltet, die zu Befestigungszwecken durch die mindestens eine Öffnung (11) des Außenglieds (10) und die Aufnahme (21) des Innenelements (20) hindurchgeht.
  2. Glied nach dem vorhergehenden Anspruch, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Befestigung des mindestens einen Dekorationselements (30) ein Spiel aufweist, sodass das mindestens eine Dekorationselement (30) einen oberen Teil mit sichtbarer Beweglichkeit relativ zu dem Außenglied (10) aufweist.
  3. Glied nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Dekorationselement (30) an dem Innenelement (20) befestigt ist und dass dieses Innenelement (20) eine Beweglichkeit relativ zu dem Außenglied (10) aufweist, die es gestattet, dem mindestens einen Dekorationselement (30) eine Beweglichkeit zu verleihen.
  4. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Dekorationselement (30) einen Teil in Form einer Kugel (31) beinhaltet, der dazu bestimmt ist, oberhalb des Außenglieds (10) sichtbar zu bleiben.
  5. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Außenglied (10) eine Form aufweist, die sein Ineinandergreifen mit einem anderen Außenglied (10) identischer Form, das daran angrenzend angeordnet ist, gestattet.
  6. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die untere Verlängerung (32) des Dekorationselements (30) mit Hilfe einer Scheibe (35) befestigt ist, die unter dem Innenelement (20) angeordnet ist.
  7. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Außenglied (10) untere Verlängerungen (12) für seine gelenkige Verbindung mit einem anderen Außenglied (10) identischer Form aufweist.
  8. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die mindestens eine Öffnung (11) des Außenglieds (10) im Bereich ihrer oberen Oberfläche eine geneigte Flanke (16) aufweist, die an einen Teil der Oberfläche des Dekorationselements (30) angepasst ist.
  9. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Innenelement (20) Arme (22, 23) aufweist, die sich nach vorne und nach hinten erstrecken, um seine Verschachtelung mit einem anderen Innenelement (20) eines anderen Glieds identischer Form zu gestatten.
  10. Glied nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Außenglied (10) mehrere Öffnungen (11) aufweist, dass das Innenelement (20) mehrere Aufnahmen (21) aufweist, die jeweils gegenüber einer Öffnung (11) des Außenglieds (10) eingerichtet sind, wobei diese Aufnahmen (21) untereinander durch Arme (22, 23) des Innenelements (20) verbunden sind, und dass ein Dekorationselement (30) im Bereich jeder Öffnung (11) des Außenglieds (10), die mit einer Aufnahme (21) des Innenelements (20) verbunden ist, befestigt ist, sodass benachbarte Dekorationselemente (30) praktisch in Kontakt sind.
  11. Glied nach dem vorhergehenden Anspruch, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die obere Oberfläche des Außenglieds (10) eine Form aus mehreren Segmenten oder Abschnitten beinhaltet, die jeweils mindestens eine Öffnung (11) beinhalten, wobei jedes Segment oder jeder Abschnitt eine vertikale Neigung und/oder eine Neigung nach vorne oder nach hinten aufweist, die in Bezug auf sein(en) oder seine benachbarten Segmente oder Abschnitte unterschiedlich ist.
  12. Schmuckstück, Juwelierstück oder Uhr, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es/sie mehrere Glieder (1) nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche beinhaltet.
  13. Stück nach dem vorhergehenden Anspruch, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es zwei aneinander angrenzende Glieder (1) beinhaltet, von denen die zwei Außenglieder (10) in ihrem unteren Teil gelenkig verbunden sind und von denen die Arme (22, 23) der zwei jeweiligen Innenelemente (20) untereinander verschachtelt sind.
  14. Stück nach einem der Ansprüche 12 oder 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es eine relative Beweglichkeit zwischen den unterschiedlichen Gliedern (1) beinhaltet, wobei die relative Bewegung von zwei aneinander angrenzenden Gliedern (1) die Beweglichkeit mindestens eines Dekorationselements (30) mindestens eines der zwei Glieder (1) bewirkt.
  15. Stück nach einem der Ansprüche 12 bis 14, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es ein Armband ist.
  16. Uhr, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein Armband nach dem vorhergehenden Anspruch beinhaltet.
EP19711502.5A 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Mobile konfiguration für ein schmuckstück Active EP3755174B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00216/18A CH714671B1 (fr) 2018-02-22 2018-02-22 Maille pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.
PCT/EP2019/053968 WO2019162232A1 (fr) 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Sertissage mobile pour pièce de joaillerie

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3755174A1 EP3755174A1 (de) 2020-12-30
EP3755174B1 true EP3755174B1 (de) 2024-03-06

Family

ID=61827456

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19711502.5A Active EP3755174B1 (de) 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Mobile konfiguration für ein schmuckstück

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20210007448A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3755174B1 (de)
JP (1) JP7376492B2 (de)
KR (1) KR20200124711A (de)
CN (1) CN111885939A (de)
CH (1) CH714671B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2019162232A1 (de)

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3095572U (ja) * 2003-01-28 2003-08-08 有限会社真光 装身具類における宝飾体の保持構造

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2058564A5 (de) * 1969-09-16 1971-05-28 Zwahlen Andre
CH656511A5 (fr) * 1984-02-13 1986-07-15 Pierre Tschanz Bracelet pour horlogerie ou bijouterie.
FR2621230B3 (fr) * 1987-10-02 1989-12-22 Goineau Cie Systeme de montage de deux pierres l'une a l'interieur de l'autre en vue de la realisation d'un bijou
CN101120834A (zh) * 2006-08-10 2008-02-13 张景峰 一种镶嵌可活动宝石的工艺
FR2986142B1 (fr) * 2012-01-31 2015-05-01 Chanel Article tel qu'un bijou comprenant des pierres d'ornement serties
CH709161A1 (fr) * 2014-01-17 2015-07-31 Cartier Création Studio Sa Pièce de bijouterie à maillons articulés, notamment un bracelet de montre, et son procédé de fabrication.
CN204273439U (zh) * 2014-12-15 2015-04-22 广东旭平首饰有限公司 可更换饰物的首饰
FR3035569B1 (fr) * 2015-04-30 2018-05-18 Hermes Sellier Article de bijouterie et/ou de joaillerie

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3095572U (ja) * 2003-01-28 2003-08-08 有限会社真光 装身具類における宝飾体の保持構造

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2019162232A1 (fr) 2019-08-29
US20210007448A1 (en) 2021-01-14
CN111885939A (zh) 2020-11-03
JP7376492B2 (ja) 2023-11-08
CH714671A1 (fr) 2019-08-30
EP3755174A1 (de) 2020-12-30
KR20200124711A (ko) 2020-11-03
CH714671B1 (fr) 2022-05-31
JP2021514273A (ja) 2021-06-10

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