EP0925737A1 - Gliederschmuck und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung - Google Patents

Gliederschmuck und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0925737A1
EP0925737A1 EP98403218A EP98403218A EP0925737A1 EP 0925737 A1 EP0925737 A1 EP 0925737A1 EP 98403218 A EP98403218 A EP 98403218A EP 98403218 A EP98403218 A EP 98403218A EP 0925737 A1 EP0925737 A1 EP 0925737A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jewelry
piece
parts
rigid
axes
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP98403218A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Albert Auer
Paul Galazka
Liliane Galazka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Jean Monnier SA
Original Assignee
Jean Monnier SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Jean Monnier SA filed Critical Jean Monnier SA
Publication of EP0925737A1 publication Critical patent/EP0925737A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
    • A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements

Definitions

  • the present invention relates mainly to a piece of jewelry, in particular a bracelet, a necklace, a ring as well than a watch strap with rigid articulated parts.
  • bracelets made up of parts rigid to adapt to the curvature of the wearer's wrist are imparted to it by joints of these parts with respect to each other.
  • bracelets of known type have hinge pins extending over the entire width of the bracelet and which therefore occupy part of the volume useful, which cannot receive decorative elements, for example precious stones or devices for mounting such stones.
  • bracelets made of rigid articulated pieces of known type do not not allow the setting of stones on said parts.
  • It is therefore an object of the present invention to offer a piece of jewelry or a flexible watch bracelet comprising parts rigid articulated allowing the mounting of decorative elements, in particular precious stones on said rigid parts.
  • an element of jewelry and such watch strap according to the present invention comprising rigid parts provided, on at least one of their faces, two parallel axes of articulation.
  • the rigid parts are staggered.
  • the rigid parts are manufactured by machining, preferably on CNC machines.
  • Rigid parts have advantageously the shape of a reception box of a precious stone.
  • the articulation axes extend between two adjacent rigid parts without penetrate notably into the boxes. They are advantageously fixed snap-on, although other means of attachment such as pins or circlips are likely to be used.
  • the axes extending between the walls of the neighboring caissons make it possible to invisible joints.
  • the main object of the invention is an element of jewelry or a watch bracelet with rigid metal parts articulated arranged in rows, characterized in that the rigid parts are articulated with respect to the adjacent parts of the adjacent rows by non-aligned parallel axes whose length is less than the width of a row.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that the rows of rigid parts articulated are staggered.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that each piece is articulated by a first axis relative to a first piece of the neighboring row and by a second axis relative to a second part of said consecutive adjacent row in this row to said first room.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that the rigid parts have the form of boxes.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that parts have axes joined together with their walls.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or watch strap characterized in that the free ends of the axes of the parts having axes integral with their walls, emerge from receiving openings, inside the boxes of the parts of the neighboring rows, to which parts with axes are assemblies.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that the axes are terminated by a hat allowing their assembly with the neighboring parts by snap-in.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that the hat and / or the stem are incised by a slot arranged in a plane including an axis of symmetry of the axis of articulation.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry or a watch strap, characterized in that the faces of the rigid parts arranged opposite each other in the rows of rigid parts form an angle ⁇ with the normal to the apparent main face between 5 ° and 6 °.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, characterized in that said piece of jewelry is a bracelet.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, characterized in that said piece of jewelry is a necklace.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, characterized in that said piece of jewelry is a ring.
  • the invention also relates to a method characterized in that that the machining is carried out on a numerically controlled machine tool.
  • FIGS. 1 to 10 the same references have been used for designate the same elements.
  • the example of bracelet 1 according to the present invention illustrated in FIG. 5 comprises five rows of rigid parts 3 substantially identical arranged in staggered rows, i.e. the ends of the pieces rigid of a row are at the level of half the length of the pieces from neighboring rows.
  • Each rigid part 3 has the shape of a box bottomless capable of receiving, by crimping, a precious stone.
  • Rigid parts 3 are articulated through a first axis relative to a first part of this neighboring row and by means of a second axis, parallel to said first axis, by compared to a second consecutive room in the next row.
  • the part 3.1 is articulated by means of an axis 5.1 with respect to part 3.2, is articulated by means of an axis 5.2 with respect to the part 3.3, and on its opposite longitudinal side, part 3.1 is hinged to the by means of an axis 5.3 with respect to the part 3.4 and by means of an axis 5.4 by compared to Exhibit 3.5.
  • the number of rows is at least 2.
  • the number of rows is odd is for example equal to 3, 5, 7, 9 or more.
  • Parts 3 of the end rows only have joints only on the side facing the next row while the pieces other rows have joints on both sides opposite longitudinal ones.
  • a complete joint between two parts consists of a axis and means for receiving said axis.
  • FIGs 3 and 4 we can see an example of a part 3 of a bracelet according to the present invention forming a bottomless box, the inner face 7 is flared upward (visible face of the bracelet) facilitating the mounting by setting of precious stones or other.
  • Room 3 of Figures 3 and 4 has four axes 5 parallel, each axis being on one of the two longitudinal faces being located in the extension of an axis corresponding to the opposite longitudinal face.
  • the part of Figure 3 has four axes. Variants not shown have four axes receiving openings, two axes and a smooth opposite wall, two openings and a smooth opposite wall or two openings and two axes.
  • the end walls pieces 3 form an angle ⁇ with the vertical for example between 5 ° and 6 °. This angle ⁇ facilitates the winding of the bracelet around the wrist.
  • axis 5 comprising at the end of the rod, a cap 9 allowing snap-on mounting in a opening having substantially the diameter of the rod.
  • Hat 9a by example, a front face (opposite the external face of the part 3 which carries axis 5) in the shape of a spherical cap and a rear face (directed towards the face external of the part 3 which carries the axis 5) planar, orthogonal to the axis of the axis 5.
  • the axis is incised by a slot 11 which gives elasticity to axis 5 during the assembly operation.
  • axes 5 are received in openings for receiving axes passing through the wall of the box and opening onto the internal face 7.
  • the axes 5 have a length slightly greater than the length of the receiving opening axes.
  • the part of the rod 5 located between the wall of the part 3 which carries it and the cap 9 has a length substantially equal to, or preferably very slightly greater than, the length of the opening to receive this axis, so that the cap 9 emerges from this opening on the internal face 7 of the neighboring box to which the part 3 carrying the axis 5 in question must be assembled.
  • axis 5 enters its receiving opening until the cap 9 emerges on the face internal 7 of the neighboring box. The elastic relaxation of the cap 9 on the face internal 7 ensures the locking of the assembly.
  • the axis 5 comprises near its end an opening 13 intended to receive a pin 15 ensuring the maintenance of the axis in its receiving opening.
  • axis 5 is introduced into an opening in the neighboring housing until opening 13 emerges on the opposite side and we introduces the pin 15 into the opening 13, which prevents the pin from being withdrawn 5.
  • axis 5 includes near its end an annular groove 17 for receiving a circlip 19 axis locking.
  • the axis 5 passes through its receiving opening so that the groove 17 protrudes inside the box of the neighboring element and we places the circlip 19 in the annular groove 17.
  • the size of the rigid pieces 3 of the row located on the convex side is greater than that of the rigid parts 3 of the row of rigid parts 3 located on the concave side of a collar 1 '.
  • FIG. 9 one can see a bracelet 1 comprising two central rows of parts 3 whose parts placed opposite are joined together.
  • connection is obtained by connecting two parts arranged opposite by the two successive axes. Both central rows are articulated with respect to the end rows staggered.
  • the angle is increased ⁇ to take into account the significant curvature of the ring which must be able adapt to the circumference of a finger.
  • the angle ⁇ is not increased in proportion to the increase in the curvature of the ring by compared to that of the bracelet so as to give a certain rigidity to the Ring.
  • Rigid parts 3 of the jewelry and bracelet watch according to the present invention are advantageously made of metal, for example brass, steel, titanium, gold or gold alloy, platinum or silver or their alloys.
  • Parts 3 are advantageously made by machining, in particular by an automatic machine with control digital, which allows very good reproducibility. Machining allows to use metals with good mechanical qualities.
  • the use of molded parts, in particular by molding lost wax is not beyond the scope of the present invention.
  • the parts do not include soldering or brazing.
  • the item of jewelry and the watch bracelet according to the present invention can receive decorative elements such as stones or the like, as well as a clasp (not shown).
  • the bracelet can be closed on itself or be part of a watch strap.
  • the present invention applies mainly to jewelry and watchmaking.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
EP98403218A 1997-12-18 1998-12-18 Gliederschmuck und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung Withdrawn EP0925737A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9716079A FR2772566B1 (fr) 1997-12-18 1997-12-18 Element de joaillerie, bracelet montre et leur procede de fabrication
FR9716079 1997-12-18

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0925737A1 true EP0925737A1 (de) 1999-06-30

Family

ID=9514784

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP98403218A Withdrawn EP0925737A1 (de) 1997-12-18 1998-12-18 Gliederschmuck und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0925737A1 (de)
FR (1) FR2772566B1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2809937A1 (fr) * 2000-06-13 2001-12-14 Elisa Antonia Ortega Bijoux a pierres tournantes dispositif servant a faire coulisser les pierres sur un bijou de facon a changer les couleurs des pierres de celui-ci

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112716121B (zh) * 2020-12-26 2022-07-12 深圳市鸿亨珠宝首饰有限公司 一种链节拼接工艺

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE949909C (de) * 1953-06-09 1956-09-27 Robert Sparn Bandkoerper fuer Schmuck- und Gebrauchszwecke
CH451580A (it) * 1966-05-30 1968-05-15 Picone Franco Procedimento per ottenere elementi componenti di un nastro flessibile ma non estensibile per bracciali, cinturini portaorologi, collane o simili in metalli preziosi o in leghe
CH669316A5 (en) * 1987-03-05 1989-03-15 Ari Applic & Rech Ind S A Articulated watch bracelet made of plastics material - has links with central row of elements joined to outer rows by studs engaging in holes

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE949909C (de) * 1953-06-09 1956-09-27 Robert Sparn Bandkoerper fuer Schmuck- und Gebrauchszwecke
CH451580A (it) * 1966-05-30 1968-05-15 Picone Franco Procedimento per ottenere elementi componenti di un nastro flessibile ma non estensibile per bracciali, cinturini portaorologi, collane o simili in metalli preziosi o in leghe
CH669316A5 (en) * 1987-03-05 1989-03-15 Ari Applic & Rech Ind S A Articulated watch bracelet made of plastics material - has links with central row of elements joined to outer rows by studs engaging in holes

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2809937A1 (fr) * 2000-06-13 2001-12-14 Elisa Antonia Ortega Bijoux a pierres tournantes dispositif servant a faire coulisser les pierres sur un bijou de facon a changer les couleurs des pierres de celui-ci

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2772566A1 (fr) 1999-06-25
FR2772566B1 (fr) 2000-02-11

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