EP3387942A1 - Schmuckartikel - Google Patents

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Publication number
EP3387942A1
EP3387942A1 EP18166634.8A EP18166634A EP3387942A1 EP 3387942 A1 EP3387942 A1 EP 3387942A1 EP 18166634 A EP18166634 A EP 18166634A EP 3387942 A1 EP3387942 A1 EP 3387942A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
decorative
decorative element
support
change
elements
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP18166634.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3387942B1 (de
Inventor
Jacques Saussey
Denis PAUMIER
Marie BOIS
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International AG
Original Assignee
Cartier International AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cartier International AG filed Critical Cartier International AG
Publication of EP3387942A1 publication Critical patent/EP3387942A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3387942B1 publication Critical patent/EP3387942B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
    • A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00—Other forms of jewellery
    • A44C15/0025—Reversible or double face jewellery
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0258—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations rotatably or pivotably arranged
    • A44C17/0266—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations rotatably or pivotably arranged with means for maintaining a pivoted position

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a jewelery article.
  • FR 1 059 535 a wrapping device for jewelry chains.
  • a chain is composed of links which are arranged relative to each other in "fish scales".
  • Each link is formed from a blank by cutting the latter, then by folding a portion, said upper, above a so-called lower part, forming a bend.
  • the lower part of the rectangular configuration link ends with a hook-shaped fold facing the elbow, while the upper part is held slightly inclined with respect to the lower part so as to allow the links to overlap.
  • the upper part is shaped like a fish shell. Pins are each arranged in a fold of a link and in an elbow of an adjacent link in order to join together the links along the entire width of the chain.
  • the subject of the invention is a jewelery item, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of decorative elements which are each configured to be mounted articulated on a support so as to be able to occupy, under the action of an external force, at least two different positions of which at least one position is stable, the decorative elements being arranged adjacent to each other so that a force exerted on one of them to change its position communicates a force to at least one other adjacent decorative element to make it also change position, the decorative elements of the plurality of decorative elements each having several outer faces of different aspects and / or orientations different geometries which are configured such that the change of position of said decorative elements is accompanied by a geometric orientation change of said outer faces.
  • the configuration of this article is such that the position of a decorative element (or pattern) depends on the position of one or more adjacent or adjacent decorative elements in the structure.
  • This arrangement allows the user to simply change the visual appearance of the plurality of decorative elements of the article by changing the position of at least one decorative element (or even a single element in certain configurations). Indeed, the change of position of an element automatically causes the change of position of at least one of the other adjacent elements.
  • the appearance of such an article is not fixed and the change of this appearance is particularly simple to implement since it is not necessary to make the change of position element by element.
  • the user can directly intervene on the decorative element (s) to change their position or indirectly, for example by actuating a mechanism present on the article.
  • the external force applied by the user results in a force or mechanical action that can deform or move, move, change the position of one or more decorative elements.
  • two opposite faces of the same decorative element correspond to different geometrical orientations, one turned on one side (ex the top) and the other turned on the opposite side (ex: the bottom).
  • the support is generally distinct from the decorative element which is articulated (for example detachably) on the support and is generally specific to each decorative element.
  • the change in the geometric orientation of the faces may give rise to a modification of the orientation of the decorative element or elements in the same plane (the faces may have different aspects or not) or to a total or partial reversal of the or decorative elements.
  • a stable position of a decorative element can be understood as a position in which the decorative element is maintained in the absence of voluntary manual intervention. Thus, if a user of the article does not wish not exert an effort on a decorative element to move it from a stable position to another position, the decorative element can not change position inadvertently.
  • the jewelry article according to the invention is for example a bracelet, a brooch, a watch bracelet, a necklace, ...
  • the decorative element support may be specific to each decorative element or common to the plurality of decorative elements.
  • the jewelery article comprises a plurality of supports for a plurality of decorative elements and these supports are assembled together, in a manner that can be dismounted or not, to form a structure or framework of the article.
  • a support When a support is common to a plurality of decorative elements, it forms a structure or framework of the article which is generally in one piece.
  • a decorative element support 16 is shown below the decorative element 10 distinct from the support.
  • the first part 12 is configured to articulate relative to the support 16.
  • the support 16 has a generally annular shape and here the support is a batten (alternatively, other forms of supports may be used).
  • a pack is a band or wire of metal that adorns the field of a jewel.
  • the support 16 of the decorative element comprises a body 18 of annular or substantially toric shape. This body is for example delimited externally by adjacent external faces which are separated one by one others by straight edges: an annular underside not shown, an opposite upper annular face 18a and two inner peripheral faces 18b and outer 18c which delimit internally and externally the body.
  • the first portion 12 of the decorative element here has a narrower shape than the second portion along its width, indicated here by the direction of the Y axis.
  • the width of the first portion 12 is smaller than the inside diameter of the shank 16 , especially at the distance between the two axis supports 20, 22, in order to be inserted between them.
  • the first part 12 is pierced in its width with through holes 12a, 12b each adapted to receive an axis or a pin 24.
  • a recess, in particular semi-cylindrical 12c, is arranged in the bottom of the first part, between the two through holes 12a, 12b.
  • the first portion 12 is introduced into the opening of the casing 16 to geometrically match the through holes 12a, 12b and the holes of the supports 20, 22 and 12. 24 is then introduced into the interior of these holes and the recess 12c.
  • the first part 12 extends in a generally circular arc shape (according to a front view taken along a longitudinal axis X perpendicular to the Y axis), as does the second part 14.
  • the circular arcs are oriented from opposite way to each other and the arc of the first part 12 is in a circle of smaller diameter than that of the second part 14.
  • the second part 14 has a general shape of fan. More particularly, the second portion 14 comprises a bottom 14a which also extends downwards in the first portion 12. This bottom 14a is bordered in the space above the first portion by a strip 14b shaped arc of circle (the bottom is recessed with respect to this strip, for example of a thickness of 1 mm). The bottom 14a and the strip 14b have two opposite faces of which only one of the faces is represented on the figure 1 .
  • This first external face F1 has a clean ornamental aspect (here it is a smooth face for the bottom 14a) and the opposite second external face F2 visible on the Figures 3 and 4 has a different ornamental aspect (here a plurality of circular recesses or pre-drillings of different sizes which are a preparation for crimping diamonds or fine stones).
  • the bottom 14a can for example receive enamel, lacquers decorative ornaments, crimps, engravings ...
  • the ornamental zone of the bottom 14a may not extend into the bottom of the portion 12 according to the configurations of articles envisaged.
  • the first functional part 12 is thus shaped to fit inside the ring, while the second ornamental part 14 is arranged above the ring regardless of the position of the decorative element, as evidenced by the different positions of the decorative element 10 on the Figures 3 to 5 .
  • the first portion 12 is also shaped so as to have a through internal recess 12d in its lower portion.
  • the internal recess 12d here is perpendicular to the recess 12c.
  • Other alternative arrangements can be envisaged.
  • the decorative element may take other forms not shown here and, in particular, its two parts may also have different configurations in compliance with the functions described above.
  • the figure 2 illustrates in section, along a plane of symmetry XZ of the decorative element, the recess 12d in which is inserted a functional block 30 (the figure 1 shows the block 30 before insertion) which forms a locking system of the decorative element.
  • This system comprises an assembly formed of an abutment element 32, here a ball, mounted on an elastic member 34, here a compression spring.
  • the two members 32 and 34 are mounted axially in a housing 36 internal to the block 30 so that the ball 32 protrudes beyond the edge of the housing.
  • the block 30 has a peripheral edge 38, or at least several lug members, which has a diameter greater than that of the recess 12d in order to prevent the block from being pushed indoors under the action of an axial force. (following the ball-spring axis).
  • the ball is crimped in its housing at the inner zone of the peripheral edge 38 by folding material.
  • the decorative element In the position of the figure 2 , the decorative element is in a position inclined relative to the vertical (position of the figure 1 ) and close to the horizontal.
  • This position is a stable position that is allowed thanks to the locking system 30: the ball 32 partially leaves the housing and abuts against one of the peripheral edges of the frame 16, more particularly against an edge or inner edge 18a1 of the upper face 18.
  • the ball 32 prevents pivoting about the axis 24 in the direction of the arrow, as illustrated by the cross.
  • the decorative element 10 is locked / held in a stable position, relative to the casing 16, via the ball 32 projecting and above the upper face 18a of the casing 16 (as on the figure 2 ).
  • the decorative element 10 can not rise from this lying position without an external action on the latter.
  • the face F1 is turned towards the frame 16, and therefore is not visible from above, while the face F2 is oriented upwards and therefore visible from above.
  • the change of position of the decorative element 10 is effected under the action of a lifting effort exerted from below and symbolized by the arrow E.
  • a lifting effort exerted from below and symbolized by the arrow E This is for example a force applied voluntarily to the element decorative from below for lifting, either directly by the user or through a mechanism of the article and which transmits force to one or more decorative elements.
  • the effort exerted is reduced because it must not be a hindrance or an obstacle for the user.
  • the system locking device is dimensioned accordingly (including the spring) to adapt the effort to overcome for the purpose of unlocking.
  • This effort causes the retraction of the ball in its housing (compressed spring) by forced contact with the inner edge of the frame and the pivoting of the decorative element 10 about the axis 24 to adopt the intermediate position of the figure 4 .
  • This position is not stable and the decorative element 10 does not stay there. However, this is one of the intermediate positions occupied by the decorative element 10 during its pivoting towards the second stable position of the figure
  • the ball 32 comes into contact with the diametrically opposite part of the inner edge of the pack and disappears in its housing to cross the edge. Once the edge is crossed, the ball is no longer solicited by contact with the edge and spring housing to be projecting above said edge, thus blocking the decorative element 10 in the second stable position lying down of the figure 5 .
  • the first part or functional area 12 thus has a function of pivoting and holding in position.
  • locking systems may alternatively be used: resilient members, friction system, ratchets, magnets .. - to block in at least a stable position the decorative elements above (or other decorative elements of another type) ) with respect to their support.
  • the locking systems may be partly configured in the support, partly in the decorative element or in one of the two parts only.
  • FIGS. 6 to 8 illustrate very schematically and partially an architecture of a jewelry item such as a bracelet and various parts constituting it.
  • Part 40 incorporates in its structure a shank 16.
  • the other packs occupy the position they have in the bracelet.
  • the packs are arranged in staggered relation to each other.
  • each frame comprises for example several rings 44 on its outer peripheral face, here arranged vertically, and independent rings 46, here arranged horizontally, are arranged between the packs and are each interlaced with one, two or three rings 44 to bind together the corresponding cats.
  • rings 44 on its outer peripheral face
  • independent rings 46 here arranged horizontally, are arranged between the packs and are each interlaced with one, two or three rings 44 to bind together the corresponding cats.
  • Other assembly mechanisms are conceivable.
  • decorative elements 10 have been mounted on socks 16 according to the mounting mode described above.
  • the decorative elements 10 are represented with different geometric orientations: some are in a stable lying position and the others are in the intermediate raised position.
  • the figure 9 represents a flake configuration of the plurality of decorative elements 10 of the aforementioned bracelet.
  • the assembly members of the packs between them have not been represented, nor the two parts of the clasp.
  • the decorative elements 10 are arranged in partial overlapping with each other in the manner of scales, when they occupy a stable position such that one of those Figures 3 and 5 .
  • the decorative elements 10A are arranged in scales, that is to say that the same element, said lower, is partially covered by several other elements, said upper, usually two, and so on for the upper elements with d ', other elements that partially overlap them.
  • the first part 12 of the decorative elements 10A is generally covered at least in part by the second part or parts 14 of the adjacent decorative element or elements.
  • the decorative elements are arranged according to the position of the packs, here in staggered rows. Other alternative positions are conceivable to adopt different configurations in which the same decorative element can be covered by more than two other elements decorative.
  • the dimensions of the decorative elements may also vary and affect the covering.
  • the decorative elements 10A are in a stable lying position with the ornamental face F2 visible as on the figure 3 .
  • the decorative elements 10B are, for their part, in the process of changing position, as explained with reference to the Figures 3 to 5 and occupy an unstable intermediate position.
  • the decorative elements 10C occupy the other stable position of the figure 5 with the ornamental face F1 visible.
  • An article may thus have different zones each comprising a plurality of decorative elements and the user can modify at will the position of the elements of one or more zones in order to modify their appearance. These zones are independent of each other in the sense that the change of position of the elements of a zone has no influence on the position of the elements of the other zones.
  • a bracelet may comprise two contiguous parallel bands or not and each band has a single zone of decorative elements or several zones.
  • Some areas may even have decorative elements whose geometric orientation can not be changed.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
EP18166634.8A 2017-04-10 2018-04-10 Schmuckartikel Active EP3387942B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1753123A FR3064894B1 (fr) 2017-04-10 2017-04-10 Article de joaillerie

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3387942A1 true EP3387942A1 (de) 2018-10-17
EP3387942B1 EP3387942B1 (de) 2019-09-25

Family

ID=59297023

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18166634.8A Active EP3387942B1 (de) 2017-04-10 2018-04-10 Schmuckartikel

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3387942B1 (de)
FR (1) FR3064894B1 (de)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1059535A (fr) 1952-07-07 1954-03-25 Dispositif d'emmaillement pour chaînes de bijouterie
CH559017A5 (en) * 1972-12-01 1975-02-28 Serafini L Etampes Et Mecaniqu Bracelet especially for watch - qas four tapering links on either side made of stainless steel
US3992901A (en) * 1975-04-23 1976-11-23 Theresa Hammer Necklace with overlapping annular members and string-concealing members
WO1992008094A1 (en) * 1990-11-06 1992-05-14 Eurocourt Limited Improvements in or relating to body protecting clothing
CN2824636Y (zh) * 2005-10-18 2006-10-11 蔡志明 一种机器编织的亮珠片带

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1059535A (fr) 1952-07-07 1954-03-25 Dispositif d'emmaillement pour chaînes de bijouterie
CH559017A5 (en) * 1972-12-01 1975-02-28 Serafini L Etampes Et Mecaniqu Bracelet especially for watch - qas four tapering links on either side made of stainless steel
US3992901A (en) * 1975-04-23 1976-11-23 Theresa Hammer Necklace with overlapping annular members and string-concealing members
WO1992008094A1 (en) * 1990-11-06 1992-05-14 Eurocourt Limited Improvements in or relating to body protecting clothing
CN2824636Y (zh) * 2005-10-18 2006-10-11 蔡志明 一种机器编织的亮珠片带

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3064894A1 (fr) 2018-10-12
FR3064894B1 (fr) 2020-11-20
EP3387942B1 (de) 2019-09-25

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