EP3755174B1 - Mobile setting for item of jewellery - Google Patents

Mobile setting for item of jewellery Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP3755174B1
EP3755174B1 EP19711502.5A EP19711502A EP3755174B1 EP 3755174 B1 EP3755174 B1 EP 3755174B1 EP 19711502 A EP19711502 A EP 19711502A EP 3755174 B1 EP3755174 B1 EP 3755174B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
link
external
decorative element
internal frame
external link
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP19711502.5A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3755174A1 (en
Inventor
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Rotiroti DOMENICO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Original Assignee
Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Bulgari Horlogerie SA filed Critical Bulgari Horlogerie SA
Publication of EP3755174A1 publication Critical patent/EP3755174A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3755174B1 publication Critical patent/EP3755174B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A44C5/10—Link constructions not extensible
    • A44C5/107—Link constructions not extensible with links made of more than two elements including connecting elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/02—Link constructions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00—Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • A44C11/007—Tennis type

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches. It also concerns a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches comprising several links linked together. There are many solutions for attaching decorative stones such as precious stones to a timepiece, piece of jewelry or jewelry. However, there is a constant need to offer new solutions for decorating such pieces, including in particular a new setting of decorative stones.
  • the document EP3087862 describes a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • the present invention proposes a new solution for decorating a piece of jewelry, jewelry, or watchmaking.
  • the invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches, comprising an external mesh comprising at least one opening on a visible upper surface, an internal frame comprising a housing positioned opposite screw of the at least one opening of the external mesh and at least one decorative element visible above the external mesh, characterized in that the decorative element comprises a lower extension passing through the at least one opening of the external mesh and the housing of the internal frame for its fixation.
  • the fixing of the at least one decorative element may have play so that the at least one decorative element has an upper part of visible mobility relative to the external mesh.
  • the at least one decorative element can be fixed to the internal frame, and this internal frame can have mobility relative to the mesh external which makes it possible to transmit mobility to the at least one decorative element.
  • the decorative element may include a sphere-shaped part intended to remain visible above the external mesh.
  • the external mesh may have a shape allowing it to fit with another external mesh of identical shape positioned adjacently.
  • the lower extension of the decorative element can be fixed using a washer positioned under the internal frame.
  • the external link may have lower extensions for its articulation with another external link of identical shape.
  • the at least one opening of the external mesh may have an inclined side at its upper surface matching part of the surface of the decorative element.
  • the internal frame may have arms extending forwards and backwards to allow its nesting with another internal frame of another mesh of identical shape.
  • the external mesh can have several openings
  • the internal frame can have several housings each arranged opposite an opening of the external mesh, these housings being linked together by arms of the internal frame, and a decorative element can be fixed at the level of each opening of the external mesh linked to a housing of the internal frame so that neighboring decorative elements are almost in contact.
  • the upper surface of the external mesh may comprise a shape of several segments or portions each comprising at least one opening, each segment or portion having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to its segment(s). or neighboring portions.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, jewelry or timepieces, characterized in that it comprises several links as described above.
  • the part may comprise two adjacent meshes of which the two external meshes are articulated in their lower part and of which the arms of the two respective internal frames are nested between them.
  • the part may include relative mobility between the different meshes, the relative movement of two adjacent meshes inducing the mobility of at least one decorative element of at least one of said two meshes.
  • the piece may be a bracelet.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece, characterized in that it comprises a bracelet as described above.
  • the piece of jewelry according to the embodiment rests on an elementary mesh 1 which comprises an external mesh 10, an internal frame 20 and decorative elements 30 fixed on the external link 10 and the internal frame 20.
  • the external mesh 10 forms a loop whose upper surface is equipped with several openings 11.
  • the upper surface of the external mesh 10 comprises several segments each comprising an opening 11, each segment having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to neighboring segments, to allow an overall impression which will be detailed later in an assembly of several meshes.
  • the external mesh 10 further comprises two extensions 12 on the rear face ending in openings 13, and a lateral opening 14 in the lower part on each side of the external mesh 10.
  • This construction makes it possible to arrange two adjacent meshes so that the extensions 12 of the first are positioned at the level of the lateral openings 14 of the second, thus aligning the openings 13, 14 of the two meshes, which are assembled by an axis 15 in the lower part, allowing them to be held articulated around this axis 15.
  • Each external mesh 10 is advantageously made of a precious metal. However, any material is possible, depending on the desired aesthetic appearance.
  • the internal frame 20 comprises cylindrical portions forming housings 21 intended for positioning opposite the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, under these openings 11. It further comprises arms connecting these housings 21, which form front loops 22 extending substantially towards the front and rear loops 23 extending substantially towards the rear.
  • This internal frame 20 can also be made of a metallic material such as a precious metal or alternatively be made of any other material. Its function is to ensure cohesion of the future piece of jewelry, to guarantee a impression of mobility, as will be detailed later. It is intended to remain little or not visible inside the external meshes 10.
  • the decorative elements 30 are in the form of a sphere 31, intended to remain visible above the external mesh 10, extended by a lower extension 32, intended for accommodation in the respective openings 11 of the external mesh 10 and the housings 21 of the internal frame 20. They can be in one piece or in several parts.
  • the sphere 31 may include a precious stone, or a precious metal, etc.
  • the number of openings 11 of the external mesh 10 is such that it is possible to accommodate a maximum of decorative elements, the spheres of which 31 come close to each other.
  • the visible upper part of a decorative element could comprise any shape other than a sphere.
  • each internal frame 20 then receives a corresponding external mesh 10, so that the housings 21 of an internal frame 20 are partially housed in the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, via the interior face.
  • each opening 11 has an inclined side 16 on its upper surface, ideally in a shape close to a part of a sphere corresponding to a sphere 31 of a decorative element 30, to allow its ideal integration in support of this surface.
  • the openings 21' of the second frame 20' are positioned to receive a second external mesh, not shown, of identical shape to the first and coming into contact or quasi-contact with the first.
  • THE figures 8 to 11 illustrate a step of fixing a decorative element 30.
  • the latter is approached from above towards an opening 11 of an external mesh 10, as shown in the figure 8 , so that its lower extension 32 penetrates through this opening 11 and through the corresponding housing 21 of the internal mesh 20. Its length is such that the end of the lower extension 32 protrudes under the internal reinforcement 20, as shown on the Figure 9 .
  • a locking washer 35 is then approached from below this lower extension 32 and fixed to this lower extension by any means, for example by laser welding, to achieve the result of the Figure 10 .
  • the decorative element 30 is fixed to the piece of jewelry and can no longer be detached.
  • FIG. 11 represents the sectional view at the level of this decorative element at the end of assembly.
  • the cylindrical part forming the housing 21 of the internal frame 20 comes inside a corresponding cylindrical part in the lower part of the opening 11 of the external mesh 10, up to a stop.
  • this opening 11 presents the inclined side 16 against which the sphere 31 of the decorative element 30 comes at least partially into contact.
  • this assembly between the three components, the housing 21 of the internal frame 20, the opening 11 of the external frame 10 and the lower extension 32 of the decorative element 30, has sufficient play to allow a relative movement of these three components, and particularly produce a visual effect of movement of the sphere 31 of the decorative element relative to the external mesh 10.
  • FIG. 12 illustrates a finalized assembly of several meshes.
  • Such an assembly has the advantage of offering a visual impression of mobility of the piece of jewelry.
  • each mesh is articulated to its neighbor, in its lower part, which allows an external mesh to move away from or approach an adjacent external mesh. All the links of the piece of jewelry can thus be more or less curved.
  • the internal reinforcements 20 slow down, accompany, limit the movements in the upper part of the external meshes, the movement of which is thus slow and of controlled amplitude.
  • Such an assembly of links makes it possible to form a piece of significant length, for example to form a bracelet.
  • a piece of general undulation of the piece like the undulation of a snake, due to the articulation of all the meshes which behave like scales.
  • This undulating movement is amplified by the visible mobility of the decorative elements on the surface of the room during such undulation. What emerges is an impression of great mobility of the piece of jewelry.
  • the invention relates to a part which may be a bracelet. It thus also relates to a timepiece, such as a wristwatch, which may include such a bracelet.
  • the internal frame could take other forms. Its connection with the external mesh could be different, since it includes a part for receiving a decorative element facing an opening in the external mesh. It could also be linked to only part of the decorative elements. Certain decorative elements could thus be linked to the external mesh by any other setting.
  • This external mesh could also have another shape, for example not being completely closed.
  • the decorative elements could have another shape, and not all be identical.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)

Description

La présente invention porte sur une maille pour une pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie. Elle porte aussi sur une pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie comprenant plusieurs mailles liées entre elles. Il existe de nombreuses solutions pour la fixation de pierres de décoration comme des pierres précieuses sur une pièce d'horlogerie, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie. Il existe toutefois un besoin constant d'offrir des nouvelles solutions de décoration de telles pièces, incluant notamment un nouveau sertissage de pierres de décoration. Le document EP3087862 décrit une maille pour pièce de joaillerie, de bijouterie ou d'horlogerie selon le préambule de la revendication 1.The present invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches. It also concerns a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches comprising several links linked together. There are many solutions for attaching decorative stones such as precious stones to a timepiece, piece of jewelry or jewelry. However, there is a constant need to offer new solutions for decorating such pieces, including in particular a new setting of decorative stones. The document EP3087862 describes a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches according to the preamble of claim 1.

La présente invention propose une nouvelle solution pour la décoration d'une pièce de joaillerie, de bijouterie, ou d'horlogerie.The present invention proposes a new solution for decorating a piece of jewelry, jewelry, or watchmaking.

A cet effet, l'invention porte sur une maille pour pièce de joaillerie, de bijouterie ou d'horlogerie, comprenant une maille externe comprenant au moins une ouverture sur une surface supérieure visible, une armature interne comprenant un logement positionné en vis-à-vis de la au moins une ouverture de la maille externe et au moins un élément de décoration visible au dessus de la maille externe, caractérisée en ce que l'élément de décoration comprend une extension inférieure traversant l'au moins une ouverture de la maille externe et le logement de l'armature interne pour sa fixation.For this purpose, the invention relates to a mesh for a piece of jewelry, jewelry or watches, comprising an external mesh comprising at least one opening on a visible upper surface, an internal frame comprising a housing positioned opposite screw of the at least one opening of the external mesh and at least one decorative element visible above the external mesh, characterized in that the decorative element comprises a lower extension passing through the at least one opening of the external mesh and the housing of the internal frame for its fixation.

La fixation de l'au moins un élément de décoration peut présenter un jeu de sorte que l'au moins un élément de décoration présente une partie supérieure de mobilité visible relativement à la maille externe.The fixing of the at least one decorative element may have play so that the at least one decorative element has an upper part of visible mobility relative to the external mesh.

L'au moins un élément de décoration peut être fixé à l'armature interne, et cette armature interne peut présenter une mobilité relativement à la maille externe qui permet de transmettre une mobilité à l'au moins un élément de décoration.The at least one decorative element can be fixed to the internal frame, and this internal frame can have mobility relative to the mesh external which makes it possible to transmit mobility to the at least one decorative element.

L'élément de décoration peut comprendre une partie en forme de sphère destinée à rester visible au dessus de la maille externe.The decorative element may include a sphere-shaped part intended to remain visible above the external mesh.

La maille externe peut présenter une forme permettant son emboîtement avec une autre maille externe de forme identique positionnée de manière adjacente.The external mesh may have a shape allowing it to fit with another external mesh of identical shape positioned adjacently.

L'extension inférieure de l'élément de décoration peut être fixée à l'aide d'une rondelle positionnée sous l'armature interne.The lower extension of the decorative element can be fixed using a washer positioned under the internal frame.

La maille externe peut présenter des extensions inférieures pour son articulation avec une autre maille externe de forme identique.The external link may have lower extensions for its articulation with another external link of identical shape.

L'au moins une ouverture de la maille externe peut présenter un flanc incliné au niveau de sa surface supérieure épousant une partie de la surface de l'élément de décoration.The at least one opening of the external mesh may have an inclined side at its upper surface matching part of the surface of the decorative element.

L'armature interne peut présenter des bras s'étendant vers l'avant et vers l'arrière pour permettre son imbrication avec une autre armature interne d'une autre maille de forme identique.The internal frame may have arms extending forwards and backwards to allow its nesting with another internal frame of another mesh of identical shape.

La maille externe peut présenter plusieurs ouvertures, l'armature interne peut présenter plusieurs logements disposés chacun en vis-à-vis d'une ouverture de la maille externe, ces logements étant liés entre eux par des bras de l'armature interne, et un élément de décoration peut être fixé au niveau de chaque ouverture de la maille externe liée à un logement de l'armature interne de sorte que des éléments de décoration voisins sont quasiment en contact.The external mesh can have several openings, the internal frame can have several housings each arranged opposite an opening of the external mesh, these housings being linked together by arms of the internal frame, and a decorative element can be fixed at the level of each opening of the external mesh linked to a housing of the internal frame so that neighboring decorative elements are almost in contact.

La surface supérieure de la maille externe peut comprendre une forme en plusieurs segments ou portions comprenant chacun au moins une ouverture, chaque segment ou portion présentant une inclinaison verticale et/ou vers l'avant ou l'arrière différente par rapport à son ou ses segments ou portions voisins.The upper surface of the external mesh may comprise a shape of several segments or portions each comprising at least one opening, each segment or portion having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to its segment(s). or neighboring portions.

L'invention porte aussi sur une pièce de joaillerie, de bijouterie ou d'horlogerie, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend plusieurs mailles telles que décrites précédemment.The invention also relates to a piece of jewelry, jewelry or timepieces, characterized in that it comprises several links as described above.

La pièce peut comprendre deux mailles adjacentes dont les deux mailles externes sont articulées dans leur partie inférieure et dont les bras des deux armatures internes respectives sont imbriqués entre eux.The part may comprise two adjacent meshes of which the two external meshes are articulated in their lower part and of which the arms of the two respective internal frames are nested between them.

La pièce peut comprendre une mobilité relative entre les différentes mailles, le déplacement relatif de deux mailles adjacentes induisant la mobilité d'au moins un élément de décoration d'au moins une desdites deux mailles.The part may include relative mobility between the different meshes, the relative movement of two adjacent meshes inducing the mobility of at least one decorative element of at least one of said two meshes.

La pièce peut être un bracelet.The piece may be a bracelet.

L'invention porte aussi sur une pièce d'horlogerie, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un bracelet tel que décrit ci-dessus.The invention also relates to a timepiece, characterized in that it comprises a bracelet as described above.

D'autres avantages et caractéristiques ressortiront plus clairement de la description qui va suivre d'un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention donné à titre d'exemple non limitatif et représenté sur les dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • La figure 1 représente une vue en perspective éclatée de face d'une maille pour pièce de joaillerie selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention.
  • La figure 2 représente une vue en perspective éclatée de l'arrière de la maille pour pièce de joaillerie selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention.
  • La figure 3 représente une vue en perspective de dessus d'une maille pour pièce de joaillerie selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention.
  • La figure 4 représente une vue en perspective de dessous de la maille pour pièce de joaillerie selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention.
  • La figure 5 représente schématiquement un assemblage de mailles pour former une pièce de joaillerie selon le mode de réalisation de l'invention.
  • Les figures 6 à 12 représentent schématiquement des étapes d'assemblage de la pièce de joaillerie selon le mode de réalisation de l'invention.
Other advantages and characteristics will emerge more clearly from the description which follows of a particular embodiment of the invention given by way of non-limiting example and represented in the appended drawings, in which:
  • There figure 1 represents an exploded front perspective view of a mesh for a piece of jewelry according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • There figure 2 represents an exploded perspective view of the rear of the mesh for a piece of jewelry according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • There Figure 3 represents a top perspective view of a mesh for a piece of jewelry according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • There Figure 4 represents a perspective view from below of the mesh for a piece of jewelry according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • There Figure 5 schematically represents an assembly of links to form a piece of jewelry according to the embodiment of the invention.
  • THE figures 6 to 12 schematically represent steps of assembling the piece of jewelry according to the embodiment of the invention.

Comme cela apparaît sur les figures 1 à 4, la pièces de joaillerie selon le mode de réalisation repose sur une maille 1 élémentaire qui comprend une maille externe 10, une armature interne 20 et des éléments de décoration 30 fixés sur la maille externe 10 et l'armature interne 20.As it appears on the figures 1 to 4 , the piece of jewelry according to the embodiment rests on an elementary mesh 1 which comprises an external mesh 10, an internal frame 20 and decorative elements 30 fixed on the external link 10 and the internal frame 20.

La maille externe 10 forme une boucle dont la surface supérieure est équipée de plusieurs ouvertures 11. Nous dénommons au sens large « surface supérieure » la surface visible de cette maille externe. Elle peut présenter une forme quelconque en fonction d'un résultat esthétique recherché. Toutefois, avantageusement, sa forme lui permet un emboîtement avec une autre maille externe de forme identique pour permettre un assemblage au plus proche avec une maille voisine, c'est-à-dire adjacente et juxtaposée. Une telle réalisation permet la liaison esthétique d'une multitude de mailles externes 10 de formes identiques.The external mesh 10 forms a loop whose upper surface is equipped with several openings 11. We call in the broad sense “upper surface” the visible surface of this external mesh. It can have any shape depending on a desired aesthetic result. However, advantageously, its shape allows it to fit with another external mesh of identical shape to allow as close an assembly as possible with a neighboring mesh, that is to say adjacent and juxtaposed. Such an embodiment allows the aesthetic connection of a multitude of external meshes 10 of identical shapes.

Avantageusement, la surface supérieure de la maille externe 10 comprend plusieurs segments comprenant chacun une ouverture 11, chaque segment présentant une inclinaison verticale et/ou vers l'avant ou l'arrière différente par rapport aux segments voisins, pour permettre une impression d'ensemble qui sera détaillée par la suite dans un assemblage de plusieurs mailles.Advantageously, the upper surface of the external mesh 10 comprises several segments each comprising an opening 11, each segment having a different vertical and/or forward or backward inclination relative to neighboring segments, to allow an overall impression which will be detailed later in an assembly of several meshes.

La maille externe 10 comprend de plus deux extensions 12 en face arrière se terminant par des ouvertures 13, et une ouverture latérale 14 en partie inférieure de chaque côté de la maille externe 10. Cette construction permet de disposer deux mailles adjacentes de sorte que les extensions 12 de la première viennent se positionner au niveau des ouvertures latérales 14 de la deuxième, alignant ainsi les ouvertures 13, 14 des deux mailles, qui sont assemblées par un axe 15 en partie inférieure, permettant leur maintien articulé autour de cet axe 15. Chaque maille externe 10 se présente avantageusement en un métal précieux. Toutefois, tout matériau est possible, selon l'aspect esthétique souhaité.The external mesh 10 further comprises two extensions 12 on the rear face ending in openings 13, and a lateral opening 14 in the lower part on each side of the external mesh 10. This construction makes it possible to arrange two adjacent meshes so that the extensions 12 of the first are positioned at the level of the lateral openings 14 of the second, thus aligning the openings 13, 14 of the two meshes, which are assembled by an axis 15 in the lower part, allowing them to be held articulated around this axis 15. Each external mesh 10 is advantageously made of a precious metal. However, any material is possible, depending on the desired aesthetic appearance.

L'armature interne 20 comprend des portions cylindriques formant des logements 21 destinés à un positionnement en vis-à-vis avec les ouvertures 11 de la maille externe 10, sous ces ouvertures 11. Elle comprend de plus des bras reliant ces logements 21, qui forment des boucles avant 22 s'étendant sensiblement vers l'avant et des boucles arrière 23 s'étendant sensiblement vers l'arrière. Cette armature interne 20 peut de même être dans un matériau métallique comme un métal précieux ou en variante être en tout autre matériau. Elle a pour fonction d'assurer une cohésion de la future pièce de joaillerie, de garantir une impression de mobilité, comme cela sera détaillé par la suite. Elle est destinée à rester peu ou pas visible à l'intérieur des mailles externes 10.The internal frame 20 comprises cylindrical portions forming housings 21 intended for positioning opposite the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, under these openings 11. It further comprises arms connecting these housings 21, which form front loops 22 extending substantially towards the front and rear loops 23 extending substantially towards the rear. This internal frame 20 can also be made of a metallic material such as a precious metal or alternatively be made of any other material. Its function is to ensure cohesion of the future piece of jewelry, to guarantee a impression of mobility, as will be detailed later. It is intended to remain little or not visible inside the external meshes 10.

Enfin, les éléments de décoration 30 se présentent sous forme d'une sphère 31, destinée à rester visible au dessus de la maille externe 10, prolongée par une extension inférieure 32, destinée à un logement dans les ouvertures respectives 11 de la maille externe 10 et les logements 21 de l'armature interne 20. Ils peuvent être monobloc ou en plusieurs parties. La sphère 31 peut comprendre une pierre précieuse, ou un métal précieux, etc. Avantageusement, le nombre d'ouvertures 11 de la maille externe 10 est tel qu'il est possible de loger un maximum d'éléments de décoration, dont les sphères 31 viennent à proximité les unes des autres. En variante, la partie supérieure visible d'un élément de décoration pourrait comprendre toute autre forme qu'une sphère.Finally, the decorative elements 30 are in the form of a sphere 31, intended to remain visible above the external mesh 10, extended by a lower extension 32, intended for accommodation in the respective openings 11 of the external mesh 10 and the housings 21 of the internal frame 20. They can be in one piece or in several parts. The sphere 31 may include a precious stone, or a precious metal, etc. Advantageously, the number of openings 11 of the external mesh 10 is such that it is possible to accommodate a maximum of decorative elements, the spheres of which 31 come close to each other. Alternatively, the visible upper part of a decorative element could comprise any shape other than a sphere.

L'assemblage de ces mailles 1 permet d'atteindre un résultat représenté par la figure 5, sur lequel on peut voir une multitude d'éléments de décoration 30, quasiment au contact les uns des autres. La surface supérieure des mailles externes 10 reste visible entre les éléments de décoration. La position de chaque élément de décoration est définie par les ouvertures 11 de chaque segment de chaque maille : cela donne un positionnement non aligné des éléments de décoration 30 sur une même maille, ce qui créée un effet visuel attractif et une meilleure impression d'ensemble. D'autre part, comme toutes les mailles 1 sont identiques, l'ensemble des éléments de décoration 30 présente une répartition régulière sur la pièce de joaillerie. Les mailles sont moins identifiables les unes des autres puisqu'elles sont imbriquées par leurs segments irréguliers, qui permettent de positionner leurs éléments de décoration de manière décalée sur une même maille. La largeur de chaque maille est telle que des éléments de décoration de deux mailles adjacentes se trouvent positionnés à proximité les uns des autres, éventuellement presque en contact.The assembly of these meshes 1 makes it possible to achieve a result represented by the Figure 5 , on which we can see a multitude of decorative elements 30, almost in contact with each other. The upper surface of the external meshes 10 remains visible between the decorative elements. The position of each decorative element is defined by the openings 11 of each segment of each mesh: this gives a non-aligned positioning of the decorative elements 30 on the same mesh, which creates an attractive visual effect and a better overall impression. . On the other hand, as all the links 1 are identical, all of the decorative elements 30 have a regular distribution on the piece of jewelry. The meshes are less identifiable from each other since they are interwoven by their irregular segments, which allow their decorative elements to be positioned offset on the same mesh. The width of each mesh is such that decorative elements of two adjacent meshes meet found positioned close to each other, possibly almost in contact.

L'assemblage de la pièce de joaillerie va maintenant être détaillé.The assembly of the piece of jewelry will now be detailed.

La figure 6 illustre plus particulièrement le positionnement de deux armatures internes 20, 20' adjacentes, qui sont cachées dans la pièce finale. Comme cela apparaît sur cette figure, les bras arrière 23 de la première armature interne 20 sont imbriqués dans les bras avant 22' de la deuxième armature interne 20'. Ces deux bras avant 22' de la deuxième armature interne 20' positionnent notamment deux logements 21' sensiblement au-dessus des bras arrière 23 de la première armature interne 20. Inversement, les bras arrière 23 de la première armature interne 20 positionnent un logement 21 sensiblement au-dessus de bras avant 22' de la deuxième armature. Il en résulte les caractéristiques suivantes :

  • les deux armatures internes 20, 20' restent indépendantes l'une de l'autre, non fixées entre elles ;
  • toutefois, leur imbrication fait que l'une peut former une butée pour le déplacement potentielle de l'autre, ou que le déplacement de l'une peut induire un déplacement de l'autre.
There Figure 6 illustrates more particularly the positioning of two adjacent internal reinforcements 20, 20', which are hidden in the final part. As appears in this figure, the rear arms 23 of the first internal frame 20 are nested in the front arms 22' of the second internal frame 20'. These two front arms 22' of the second internal frame 20' position in particular two housings 21' substantially above the rear arms 23 of the first internal frame 20. Conversely, the rear arms 23 of the first internal frame 20 position a housing 21 substantially above the front arm 22' of the second frame. This results in the following characteristics:
  • the two internal frames 20, 20' remain independent of each other, not fixed together;
  • however, their nesting means that one can form a stop for the potential movement of the other, or that the movement of one can induce a movement of the other.

La figure 7 montre que chaque armature interne 20 reçoit ensuite une maille externe 10 correspondante, de sorte que les logements 21 d'une armature interne 20 viennent partiellement se loger dans les ouvertures 11 de la maille externe 10, par la face intérieure. On aperçoit sur cette figure 7 que chaque ouverture 11 présente un flanc incliné 16 sur sa surface supérieure, idéalement selon une forme proche d'une partie de sphère correspondant à une sphère 31 d'un élément de décoration 30, pour permettre son intégration idéale en appui sur cette surface. Il apparaît aussi que les ouvertures 21' de la deuxième armature 20' sont positionnées pour recevoir une deuxième maille externe, non représentée, de forme identique à la première et venant au contact ou quasi-contact avec la première.There Figure 7 shows that each internal frame 20 then receives a corresponding external mesh 10, so that the housings 21 of an internal frame 20 are partially housed in the openings 11 of the external mesh 10, via the interior face. We see on this Figure 7 that each opening 11 has an inclined side 16 on its upper surface, ideally in a shape close to a part of a sphere corresponding to a sphere 31 of a decorative element 30, to allow its ideal integration in support of this surface. It also appears that the openings 21' of the second frame 20' are positioned to receive a second external mesh, not shown, of identical shape to the first and coming into contact or quasi-contact with the first.

Les figures 8 à 11 illustrent une étape de fixation d'un élément de décoration 30. Ce dernier est approché par le dessus vers une ouverture 11 d'une maille externe 10, comme représenté sur la figure 8, de sorte que son extension inférieure 32 vienne pénétrer au travers cette ouverture 11 et au travers le logement 21 correspondant de la maille interne 20. Sa longueur est telle que l'extrémité de l'extension inférieure 32 dépasse sous l'armature interne 20, comme représenté sur la figure 9. Une rondelle de blocage 35 est alors approchée par le dessous de cette extension inférieure 32 et fixée sur cette extension inférieure par tout moyen, par exemple par une soudure laser, pour atteindre le résultat de la figure 10. Suite à cela, l'élément de décoration 30 est fixé sur la pièce de joaillerie et ne peut plus se désolidariser.THE figures 8 to 11 illustrate a step of fixing a decorative element 30. The latter is approached from above towards an opening 11 of an external mesh 10, as shown in the figure 8 , so that its lower extension 32 penetrates through this opening 11 and through the corresponding housing 21 of the internal mesh 20. Its length is such that the end of the lower extension 32 protrudes under the internal reinforcement 20, as shown on the Figure 9 . A locking washer 35 is then approached from below this lower extension 32 and fixed to this lower extension by any means, for example by laser welding, to achieve the result of the Figure 10 . Following this, the decorative element 30 is fixed to the piece of jewelry and can no longer be detached.

La figure 11 représente la vue en coupe au niveau de cet élément de décoration en fin de montage. On aperçoit notamment que la partie cylindrique formant le logement 21 de l'armature interne 20 vient à l'intérieur d'une partie cylindrique correspondante en partie inférieure de l'ouverture 11 de la maille externe 10, jusqu'à une butée. Au-dessus, cette ouverture 11 présente le flanc incliné 16 contre lequel la sphère 31 de l'élément de décoration 30 vient au moins partiellement en contact. En remarque, cet assemblage entre les trois composants, le logement 21 de l'armature interne 20, l'ouverture 11 de l'armature externe 10 et l'extension inférieure 32 de l'élément de décoration 30, présente suffisamment de jeu pour permettre un déplacement relatif de ces trois composants, et particulièrement produire un effet visuel de mouvement de la sphère 31 de l'élément de décoration relativement à la maille externe 10.There Figure 11 represents the sectional view at the level of this decorative element at the end of assembly. We see in particular that the cylindrical part forming the housing 21 of the internal frame 20 comes inside a corresponding cylindrical part in the lower part of the opening 11 of the external mesh 10, up to a stop. Above, this opening 11 presents the inclined side 16 against which the sphere 31 of the decorative element 30 comes at least partially into contact. As a note, this assembly between the three components, the housing 21 of the internal frame 20, the opening 11 of the external frame 10 and the lower extension 32 of the decorative element 30, has sufficient play to allow a relative movement of these three components, and particularly produce a visual effect of movement of the sphere 31 of the decorative element relative to the external mesh 10.

La figure 12 illustre un assemblage finalisé de plusieurs mailles. Un tel assemblage présente l'avantage d'offrir une impression visuelle de mobilité de la pièce de joaillerie. En effet, chaque maille est articulée à sa voisine, dans sa partie inférieure, ce qui permet à une maille externe de s'écarter ou se rapprocher d'une maille externe adjacente. L'ensemble des mailles de la pièce de joaillerie peut ainsi être plus ou moins courbé. Dans cette articulation des mailles externes entre elles, les armatures internes 20 freinent, accompagnent, limitent les déplacements en partie haute des mailles externes, dont le mouvement est ainsi lent et d'amplitude maitrisée. Enfin, dans ces mouvements d'ensemble, des contraintes apparaissent donc au niveau des ouvertures 11 de la maille externe, transmises par les armatures internes 20, ce qui a pour effet un léger mouvement des élément de décoration qui sont fixés sur ces armatures internes, du fait des jeux mentionnés précédemment. Ce mouvement des éléments de décoration 30 amplifie l'impression d'ensemble de mobilité.There Figure 12 illustrates a finalized assembly of several meshes. Such an assembly has the advantage of offering a visual impression of mobility of the piece of jewelry. In fact, each mesh is articulated to its neighbor, in its lower part, which allows an external mesh to move away from or approach an adjacent external mesh. All the links of the piece of jewelry can thus be more or less curved. In this articulation of the external meshes between them, the internal reinforcements 20 slow down, accompany, limit the movements in the upper part of the external meshes, the movement of which is thus slow and of controlled amplitude. Finally, in these overall movements, constraints therefore appear at the level of the openings 11 of the external mesh, transmitted by the internal frames 20, which has the effect of a slight movement of the decorative elements which are fixed on these internal frames, due to the games mentioned above. This movement of the decorative elements 30 amplifies the overall impression of mobility.

Un tel assemblage de mailles permet de former une pièce de longueur importante, par exemple pour former un bracelet. Dans une telle pièce, on observe un effet visuel d'ondulation général de la pièce, comme une ondulation de serpent, du fait de l'articulation de toutes les mailles qui se comportent comme des écailles. Ce mouvement d'ondulation est amplifié par la mobilité visible des éléments de décoration à la surface de la pièce lors d'une telle ondulation. Il en ressort une impression de grande mobilité de la pièce de joaillerie.Such an assembly of links makes it possible to form a piece of significant length, for example to form a bracelet. In such a piece, we observe a visual effect of general undulation of the piece, like the undulation of a snake, due to the articulation of all the meshes which behave like scales. This undulating movement is amplified by the visible mobility of the decorative elements on the surface of the room during such undulation. What emerges is an impression of great mobility of the piece of jewelry.

Comme cela a été mentionné ci-dessus, l'invention porte sur une pièce qui peut être un bracelet. Elle porte ainsi aussi sur une pièce d'horlogerie, comme une montre bracelet, qui peut comprendre un tel bracelet.As mentioned above, the invention relates to a part which may be a bracelet. It thus also relates to a timepiece, such as a wristwatch, which may include such a bracelet.

Naturellement, l'invention ne se limite pas au mode de réalisation décrit. Notamment, l'armature interne pourrait prendre d'autres formes. Sa liaison avec la maille externe pourrait être différente, dès lors qu'elle comprend une partie de réception d'un élément de décoration en vis-à-vis d'une ouverture de la maille externe. Elle pourrait de plus n'être liée qu'à une partie seulement des éléments de décoration. Certains éléments de décoration pourraient ainsi être liés à la maille externe par tout autre sertissage. Cette maille externe pourrait de même présenter une autre forme, n'être par exemple pas totalement fermée. Les éléments de décoration pourraient présenter une autre forme, et n'être pas tous identiques.Naturally, the invention is not limited to the embodiment described. In particular, the internal frame could take other forms. Its connection with the external mesh could be different, since it includes a part for receiving a decorative element facing an opening in the external mesh. It could also be linked to only part of the decorative elements. Certain decorative elements could thus be linked to the external mesh by any other setting. This external mesh could also have another shape, for example not being completely closed. The decorative elements could have another shape, and not all be identical.

Claims (16)

  1. A link for an item of jewelry or watch jewelry, comprising an external link (10) comprising at least one opening (11) in a visible upper surface, an internal frame (20) comprising a housing (21) positioned facing the at least one opening (11) in the external link (10) and at least one decorative element (30) visible on top of the external link (10), characterized in that the decorative element (30) comprises a lower extension (32) passing through the at least one opening (11) in the external link (10) and the housing (21) of the internal frame (20) for fixing it.
  2. The link as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the fixing of the at least one decorative element (30) incorporates play so that the at least one decorative element (30) has an upper part of visible mobility relative to the external link (10).
  3. The link as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one decorative element (30) is fixed to the internal frame (20) and in that this internal frame (20) has a mobility relative to the external link (10) that enables transmission of mobility to the at least one decorative element (30).
  4. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the decorative element (30) comprises a part (31) of spherical shape intended to remain visible above the external link (10).
  5. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the external link (10) has a shape enabling it to be nested with another external link (10) of identical shape positioned in an adjacent manner.
  6. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lower extension (32) of the decorative element (30) is fixed with the aid of a washer (35) positioned under the internal frame (20).
  7. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the external link (10) has lower extensions (12) for its articulation with another external link (10) of identical shape.
  8. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one opening (11) of the external link (10) has an inclined flank (16) at the level of its upper surface espousing a part of the surface of the decorative element (30).
  9. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the internal frame (20) has arms (22, 23) extending toward the front and toward the rear to enable interleaving thereof with another internal frame (20) of another link of identical shape.
  10. The link as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the external link (10) has a plurality of openings (11), in that the internal frame (20) has a plurality of housings (21) each disposed facing an opening (11) of the external link (10), these housings (21) being interconnected by arms (22, 23) of the internal frame (20), and in that a decorative element (30) is fixed at the level of each opening (11) of the external link (10) connected to a housing (21) of the internal frame (20) so that adjacent decorative elements (30) are virtually in contact.
  11. The link as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the upper surface of the external link (10) comprises a shape in a plurality of segments or portions each comprising at least one opening (11), each segment or portion having a different vertical and/or toward the front or the rear inclination compared to its adjacent segments or portions.
  12. An item of jewelry or watch jewelry, characterized in that it comprises a plurality of links (1) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.
  13. The item as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises two adjacent links (1) the two external links (10) of which are articulated in their lower part and the arms (22, 23) of the two respective internal frames (20) of which are interleaved with each other.
  14. The item as claimed in either one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that it has a relative mobility between the various links (1), the relative movement of two adjacent links (1) inducing the mobility of at least one decorative element (30) of at least one of said two links (1).
  15. The item as claimed in any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that it is a bracelet.
  16. A timepiece, characterized in that it comprises a bracelet according to the preceding claim.
EP19711502.5A 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Mobile setting for item of jewellery Active EP3755174B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00216/18A CH714671B1 (en) 2018-02-22 2018-02-22 Mesh for piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking.
PCT/EP2019/053968 WO2019162232A1 (en) 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Mobile setting for item of jewellery

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3755174A1 EP3755174A1 (en) 2020-12-30
EP3755174B1 true EP3755174B1 (en) 2024-03-06

Family

ID=61827456

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19711502.5A Active EP3755174B1 (en) 2018-02-22 2019-02-18 Mobile setting for item of jewellery

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20210007448A1 (en)
EP (1) EP3755174B1 (en)
JP (1) JP7376492B2 (en)
KR (1) KR20200124711A (en)
CN (1) CN111885939A (en)
CH (1) CH714671B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2019162232A1 (en)

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3095572U (en) * 2003-01-28 2003-08-08 有限会社真光 Jewelry holding structure in jewelry

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2058564A5 (en) * 1969-09-16 1971-05-28 Zwahlen Andre
CH656511A5 (en) * 1984-02-13 1986-07-15 Pierre Tschanz BRACELET FOR WATCHMAKING OR JEWELRY.
FR2621230B3 (en) * 1987-10-02 1989-12-22 Goineau Cie SYSTEM FOR MOUNTING TWO STONES ONE INSIDE THE OTHER FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A JEWEL
CN101120834A (en) * 2006-08-10 2008-02-13 张景峰 Technology for enchasing movable gem
FR2986142B1 (en) * 2012-01-31 2015-05-01 Chanel ARTICLE LIKE A JEWEL COMPRISING STONE ORNAMENT STONES
CH709161A1 (en) * 2014-01-17 2015-07-31 Cartier Création Studio Sa Piece of jewelry with articulated links, including a watch strap, and its manufacturing process.
CN204273439U (en) * 2014-12-15 2015-04-22 广东旭平首饰有限公司 The jewellery of replaceable jewelry
FR3035569B1 (en) * 2015-04-30 2018-05-18 Hermes Sellier JEWELERY AND / OR JEWELERY ARTICLE

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3095572U (en) * 2003-01-28 2003-08-08 有限会社真光 Jewelry holding structure in jewelry

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2019162232A1 (en) 2019-08-29
US20210007448A1 (en) 2021-01-14
CN111885939A (en) 2020-11-03
JP7376492B2 (en) 2023-11-08
CH714671A1 (en) 2019-08-30
EP3755174A1 (en) 2020-12-30
KR20200124711A (en) 2020-11-03
CH714671B1 (en) 2022-05-31
JP2021514273A (en) 2021-06-10

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP2440085B1 (en) Bracelet made up of articulated links
EP0868863B1 (en) Watchband
CH704707B1 (en) Oscillating weight for automatic watch.
EP0549979B1 (en) Articulated bracelet, particularly for watches
EP3755174B1 (en) Mobile setting for item of jewellery
WO1989003646A1 (en) Jewel with interchangeable components
EP3941300B1 (en) Clasp for a watchstrap or bracelet
EP0175700B1 (en) Bracelet for the jewellery and watch making industry
EP3653074B1 (en) Assembly of elements such as links of a bracelet
EP3593667B1 (en) Link for bracelet
EP0167799A1 (en) Articulated bracelet
EP0925737A1 (en) Jewel made of links and method for manufacturing the same
EP2950677B1 (en) Decorative element comprising a number of stones which are assembled within a closed frame, comprising two decorative faces
EP0509222B1 (en) Articulated bracelet, particulary for watches
CH715586B1 (en) Bracelet strand.
CH715541A2 (en) Assembly of elements such as links of a bracelet.
WO2018083388A1 (en) Jewellery
EP3387942A1 (en) Jewellery item
CH712215B1 (en) Adjustment device for bracelet.
WO2002096235A2 (en) Link assortment for jewellery article and ring formed with such links
FR2751182A1 (en) Bracelet for jewellery or watch
CH688430A5 (en) Link especially for wristwatch bracelet
CH707383B1 (en) Decorative element of a watch strap.

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: UNKNOWN

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATION HAS BEEN MADE

PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION WAS MADE

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20200921

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

DAV Request for validation of the european patent (deleted)
DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: HK

Ref legal event code: DE

Ref document number: 40037647

Country of ref document: HK

P01 Opt-out of the competence of the unified patent court (upc) registered

Effective date: 20230602

GRAP Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR1

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: GRANT OF PATENT IS INTENDED

INTG Intention to grant announced

Effective date: 20230915

RIN1 Information on inventor provided before grant (corrected)

Inventor name: DOMENICO, ROTIROTI

Inventor name: STIGLIANI, FABRIZIO BUONAMASSA

GRAS Grant fee paid

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR3

GRAA (expected) grant

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE PATENT HAS BEEN GRANTED

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: B1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: CH

Ref legal event code: EP

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: IE

Ref legal event code: FG4D

Free format text: LANGUAGE OF EP DOCUMENT: FRENCH

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R096

Ref document number: 602019047728

Country of ref document: DE