Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition, intended in particular for making up and/or caring for the lips and the skin, presented in the form of an emulsion, comprising at least 10% by weight of water, at least 10% by weight of a silicone resin, at least 4% by weight of at least one amino silicone oil, and also to a process for treating and/or making up keratin materials, for instance the skin or the lips, in particular the lips, using said composition.
• compositions for making up and/or caring for the lips in particular fluid compositions such as liquid lipsticks, which are stable and endowed with satisfactory properties in terms of application (glidance on application, ease of spreading and fineness of the deposit), but also in terms of the makeup effect of the deposit on the lips, for instance the absence of migration of the deposit, preferably without becoming tacky, is an ongoing objective.
• formulations corresponding to liquid presentation forms are conventionally anhydrous and comprise oils, which in particular provide gloss, optionally waxes for structuring the compositions, fillers especially for thickening the composition, film-forming polymers, and dyestuffs.
• liquid lipsticks must be sufficiently fluid to be easily applied, but not too fluid, so as not to degrade the stability of the composition (pigment sedimentation) and the ease of application (running).
• the deposit is relatively thick, thereby giving it a more or less tacky nature, especially induced by the use of these oils and of the polymers present. This nature may be reflected especially by adhesion of the made-up lips to each other, causing the user an unpleasant sensation in terms of comfort.
• Liquid lipstick compositions have for some time appeared on the market, in the form of direct or inverse aqueous emulsions. When they are applied, they provide a fresh effect, and are sparingly tacky or non-tacky, and comfortable, and remain so once deposited. They also make it possible to obtain a homogeneous, sufficiently glossy deposit which has satisfactory persistence and transfer resistance.
• compositions that can be applied both to the lips and to the skin, in particular to the face and more precisely the cheeks.
• compositions in particular creamy compositions, which can produce a deposit whose gloss, and also the persistence of the gloss are improved without having an excessively adverse effect on the transfer resistance properties and without any loss of comfort or increase in tackiness, are thus sought.
• the content of amino silicone oil being at least 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition if the composition does not comprise any abovementioned non-volatile silicone oil(s).
• the film deposited on the lips has the advantage of being thin and affords a fresh effect on application, without significant migration into the wrinkles and fine lines.
• composition is stable, easy to apply, comfortable on application since the deposit obtained is sparingly tacky or non-tacky, and remains so once in place. Moreover, the deposit does not give an impression of dryness of the lips, does not crack and keeps the lips mobile.
• the deposit obtained by applying the composition according to the invention has improved gloss coupled with good persistence of the gloss over time ln addition, the transfer resistance remains satisfactory.
• the percentages are on a weight basis, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may advantageously be in very variable forms, ranging from fluid (relatively sparingly viscous) compositions to very viscous compositions.
• compositions according to the invention may have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.01 and 15 Pa.s, more particularly ranging from 0.05 to 12 Pa.s.
• the viscosity measurement is generally performed at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer equipped with a no. 2, 3 or 4 spindle, depending on the viscosity, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.
• the term "resin” means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional.
• a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin for the purposes of the present invention.
• silicone resins also known as siloxane resins
• MDTQ silicone resins
• the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi /2 , the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
• the letter D means a difunctional unit RlR2Si0 2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
• T represents a trifunctional unit of formula Rl Si03 / 2.
• Ri namely Ri, R 2 and R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
• the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit S1O4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
• silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
• silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, use may be made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.
• silicone resins of MQ type mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(Rl)3Si0i/2] x (Si04/2) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group Rl represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
• solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl siloxysilicate type mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, under the reference MQ 1600 by Dow Coming or under the reference Belsil TMS 803 by the company Wacker.
• silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
• phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials). The preparation of such resins is described especially in patent US 5 817 302.
• silicone resins of T type examples include the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSi03 / 2) x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si- OH end groups.
• polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group.
• polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in US 5 246 694.
• Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold:
• Resin MK polymer comprising CTbSiCb repeating units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3 ) 2 Si0 2/2 units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or
• Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are those mentioned in US 5 110
• a preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resins.
• MQTpr MQT-propyl
• Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are especially the resins described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
• the MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:
• Rl, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
• the siloxane resin comprises the following units:
• Ri and R 3 independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, Ri preferably being a methyl group and R 3 preferably being a propyl group,
• - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,
• siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction of:
• an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (Rl 3 SiOi /2 ) a and (Si0 4/2 ) d ,
• Rl representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - a and d being greater than zero
• T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3Si03 / 2) c ,
• R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
• the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85 and preferably the mass ratio A/B is
• the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.
• the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30. These preferred ratios have proven to afford comfortable deposits.
• the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one resin of MQ type as described previously.
• the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
• the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• the content of silicone resin represents between 10 and 45% by weight, preferably between 12 and 40% by weight, in particular between 15 and 35% by weight, or even from 18 to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the silicone resin may be used in powder form, in a form dissolved in a solvent, in a form conveyed in a liquid or in a form emulsified in water ft should be noted that, in the latter case, the silicone resin is preferably in a conveyed form, advantageously dissolved in a solvent, and then emulsified.
• said solvent is usually chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile, silicone oils.
• volatile oil means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature (25°C), ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular to 13 000 Pa and preferably to 1300 Pa.
• the vapour pressure may be measured using the static method or using the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapour pressure (standard OCDE 104, for instance regulation (EC) No 761/2009 of 23 July 2009).
• Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include alkanes, preferably branched alkanes of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially such as Cx-CN, isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.
• Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
• oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 by Dow Coming or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.
• silicone resins especially of MQ type, which are in a form conveyed in a solvent
• Koboguard® MQ65TMF mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone sold by Kobo
• KF-7312J mixture in cyclopentasiloxane
• KF-7312K mixtures in dimethicone
• KF-7312T mixture in trimethicone
• X-21-5249 mixedture in cyclopentasiloxane
• X-21-5249L mixedture in dimethicone
• X-21-5250 X-21-5250L
• X-21-5250L mixtureture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively
• X-21-5595, X-21-5616 mixturetures in isododecane
• composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone oil. It should be noted that this oil is advantageously non-volatile.
• oil denotes a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (l .0l3x l0 5 Pa).
• non-volatile oil means an oil whose vapour pressure at 25°C is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.
• silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups.
• amino silicone denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
• amino silicones are free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, the oxyalkylene unit being C2-C3.
• non-volatile amino silicone oil(s) are chosen from the compounds having the following formula:
• R which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl, phenyl or Ci- C 8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy group, for example methoxy;
• R’ which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent radical of formula -C q hh q L in which the divalent group -C q hh q - is linear or branched; q represents an integer ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
• R denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl radical, or a saturated monovalent C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical
• Q denotes a linear or branched divalent group of formula -CTH r -, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4
• A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;
• n and n are integers such that the sum (n + m) may range especially from 1 to 2000, more particularly from 1 to 1000, preferably at least 50; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.
• the weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones are measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature as polystyrene equivalents.
• the columns used are m styragel columns.
• the eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 m ⁇ of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV- metry.
• amino silicone oil(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (G) corresponding to formula (I) in which:
• R which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or a methyl radical
• R’ which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent radical of formula -C q H2 q L in which:
• - L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups -NH-Q-NH2; -NH-Q- N + H 3 A , and preferably -NH-Q-NH2;
• Q denotes a linear or branched divalent group of formula -CTH r -, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 4 and preferably 2; and A represents a halide ion, for instance chloride;
• n + m and n are integers such that the sum (n + m) may range especially from 1 to 2000, more particularly from 1 to 1000, preferably at least 50; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10.
• amino silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (1) below:
• n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10.
• amino silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (2) below:
• n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, especially from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
• R and R’ which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, at least one of the radicals R or R’ denoting an alkoxy radical.
• the hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably from 0.25: 1 to 0.35: 1 and is more particularly equal to 0.3: 1.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.
• the commercial products comprising silicones of formula (2) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formula (2).
• amino silicones of structure (2) is proposed by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
• amino silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (3) below:
• - m and n are numbers such that the sum (m + n) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; m possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, especially from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and n possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, especially from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
• - R which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, at least one of the radicals denoting an alkoxy radical.
• the hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1, preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 : 1 and is more particularly equal to 1 :0.95.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g/mol, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 g/mol and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000 g/mol.
• the commercial products comprising silicones of formula (3) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formula (3).
• amino silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (4) below:
• - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
• - A denotes a divalent group -C q Th q -, which is preferably linear, in which q represents an integer ranging from 4 to 8, and preferably being equal to 4.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g/mol.
• amino silicone(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (11) below:
• n + m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
• A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
• the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g/mol and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g/mol.
• amino silicone(s) may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (111) below:
• x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g/mol approximately.
• the amino silicone oil may be provided in the composition according to the invention, alone, in a solubilized or even emulsified form.
• said emulsion may comprise one or more ionic or nonionic surfactants.
• the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion may range from 3 to 500 nm.
• the mixture sold under the name KF-8020 from Shin-Etsu is also suitable for use.
• emulsions comprising at least one amino silicone oil
• Use may also be made of mixtures of amino silicone and polydisiloxane, for instance Dow Coming CE-1689 Smoothing Emulsion from the company Dow Coming.
• Use may also be made of co-emulsions of amino silicone oil and of non-volatile silicone oil, as described in international patent application WO 2017/06962 from Wacker.
• composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-volatile silicone oil (and thus in other words does not contain any non-volatile non-amino silicone oil) which will be described in detail later, then the content of amino silicone oil is at least 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the content of amino silicone oil(s) ranges from 4% to 45% by weight, preferably from 6% to 40% by weight and even more advantageously from 8% to 35% by weight, relative to the weight of amino silicone oil(s) in the composition.
• the content of amino silicone oil(s) is between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the content of amino silicone oil(s) is between 1.5% and 15% by weight and preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the total content of amino silicone oil(s) and of abovementioned non-volatile silicone oil(s) if the composition comprises any is between 4% and 45% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil, not comprising any (poly)oxyalkylene groups, the oxyalkylene unit of which is C2-C3, or any (poly)glycerol groups.
• non-volatile silicone oil(s) are free of amino groups, and are preferably free of nitrogen atoms. They are therefore not amino silicone oils.
• the non-volatile silicone oil is free of -Si-H groups. It also preferably does not comprise any C 8 -C 22 alkyl groups when the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any phenyl groups.
• the non-volatile silicone oil is nonionic.
• nonionic means that the compound does not comprise any ionic groups, irrespective of the pH of the composition.
• non-volatile silicone oils examples that may be mentioned include non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils and non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment, and also mixtures thereof.
• the silicone oil may be used in the composition according to the invention, in unmodified form, or in a form dissolved in at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, or in the form of an emulsion.
• Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils
• non-phenyl silicone oil denotes a silicone oil not comprising phenyl substituents.
• non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes; vinyl dimethicones and copolymers with dimethicone.
• dimethylsiloxane (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
• oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:
• the non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula
• R2, R5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
• - R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl radical
• - X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical
• n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25°C is between 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 mm 2 /s) and 800 000 cSt (800 000 mm 2 /s), advantageously less than 600 000 cSt (600 000 mm 2 /s).
• non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that are suitable for performing the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
• the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group
• p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt (500 000 mm 2 /s), for example the product sold under the name Silsoft SE30 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Coming,
• the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group
• p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt (60 000 mm 2 /s), for example the product sold under the name Dow Coming 200 Fluid 60 000 CS by the company Dow Coming, and the product sold under the name Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
• the substituents Ri to R 6 and X represent a methyl group
• p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt (100 mm 2 /s) or 350 cSt (350 mm 2 /s), for example the products sold respectively under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Coming 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Coming, and
• the substituents Ri to R 6 represent a methyl group
• the group X represents a hydroxyl group
• n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt (700 mm 2 /s), for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive Performance Materials.
• Dimethiconols such as the products Xiameter PMX-1503 (as a mixture with a dimethicone) and Xiameter PMX-1502 (mixture with Cl 1-13 isoparaffin, isohexadecane, dimethicone) from Dow Coming may also be suitable for use.
• the silicone oil may be used in unmodified form, or in a form dissolved in at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, or in the form of an emulsion.
• emulsions of non-volatile silicone oil mention may be made of the products Xiameter MEM-1352 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, C12-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM 1491 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, C12-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM-1691 Emulsion (dimethicone, Cl 2- 13 pareth-4 and Cl 2- 13 pareth-23 and salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1652 Emulsion (dimethicone, Cl 2- 13 pareth-23; C12-C15 pareth 3, salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-4, laureth-23), Xiameter MEM-2664 Emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, laureth-4), Xiameter MEM- 1784 Emulsion or Dow Coming CE2060 (dimethicone, co
• phenyl silicone oil denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.
• non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those also bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not bearing any.
• dimethicone fragment denotes a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at the end of the molecule ft can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH 3 ) 2 -0)-.
• the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:
• the groups R which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
• the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
• groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
• the compound of formula (11) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
• Mixtures of different compounds of formula (11) described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxanes.
• phenyl silicone oils not bearing any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.
• non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Coming under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Coming 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5- pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Coming 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Coming may also be used.
• - Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated and linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 1000, preferably 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0 and that the silicone oil is non-volatile.
• the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
• the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 1000, more particularly between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.
• q is equal to 0.
• Ri to Rio represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and linear or branched C 1 -C30 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated C 1-C20, in particular Ci-Cis, hydrocarbon-based radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 and in particular C 10-C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably a C 1-C3 alkyl.
• Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
• Ri to Rio may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
• o phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
• ⁇ Ri to R 6 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably C6-C 14 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is a C 1-C3 alkyl,
• ⁇ m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 1000, preferably between 0 and 100 with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 1000, preferably between 1 and 100.
• Ri to R 6 represent, independently of each other, a C 1-C20, in particular Ci- Ci 8 , preferably alkyl, hydrocarbon-based radical, or a C6-C14 aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably a Cr, aryl radical) or polycyclic and in particular a C 10-C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is a Cr, aryl; the alkyl part is a C 1-C3 alkyl).
• a C 1-C20 in particular Ci- Ci 8
• aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably a Cr, aryl radical) or polycyclic and in particular a C 10-C 13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is a Cr, aryl; the alkyl part is a C 1-C3 alkyl).
• Ri to R 6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
• Ri to R 6 may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
• m 1 or 2 or 3
• the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment.
• oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:
• Ri to R 6 are methyl radicals.
• the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone, such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu (400 cSt - 400 mm 2 /s), KF54HV from Shin-Etsu (5000 cSt - 5000 mm 2 /s), KF-50-300CS from Shin-Etsu (300 cSt - 300 mm 2 /s), KF-53 from Shin-Etsu (175 cSt - l75 mm 2 /s) or KF-50-100CS from Shin-Etsu (100 cSt - l00 mm 2 /s).
• KF-54 from Shin-Etsu (400 cSt - 400 mm 2 /s)
• KF54HV from Shin-Etsu
• KF-50-300CS from Shin-Etsu (300 cSt - 300 mm 2 /s)
• KF-53 from Shin-Ets
• phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (Vll) below:
• p is between 1 and 1000.
• m is more particularly such that compound (Vll) is a non-volatile oil.
• Use may be made, for example, of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 or Belsil PDM 20, by the company Wacker.
• p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that compound (Vll) is a non-volatile oil.
• R independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, a preferably C6-C14 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is a C1-C3 alkyl,
• n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
• R independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C1-C20, in particular Ci-Cis and more particularly C4-C10, hydrocarbon-based radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14, and in particular C 10-C 13, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is a Cr, aryl and the alkyl part is a C1-C3 alkyl.
• the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or as a variant a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
• the groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
• n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII).
• R is a methyl radical.
• a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt), may be used.
• the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
• Ri, R2, R5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
• R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably Ce-Cw), with the proviso that at least one from among R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,
• X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
• n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1 , chosen so as to give the oil a weight- average molecular mass preferably less than l50 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
• the content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) is more particularly between 2% and 35% by weight and preferably between 8% and 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
• non-volatile silicone oil(s) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils preferably bearing a dimethicone fragment, and also mixtures thereof.
• the composition comprises as non-volatile silicone oil(s), polydimethylsiloxanes and phenyl silicones of formula (V), and also mixtures thereof.
• the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) bearing a dimethicone fragment are chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and diphenyl dimethicones, and also mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition to the abovementioned non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not bearing any dimethicone fragments, for instance phenyl trimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.
• composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
• hydrocarbon-based oil denotes a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa), formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.
• a hydrocarbon-based oil is thus different from a silicone oil or a fluoro oil.
• the hydrocarbon-based oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
• miscible means more particularly that the mixing of the same amount of water and oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is performed by eye or using a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (as a guide, 200 to 1000 rpm), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed flask, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
• the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from C10-C26 alcohols; optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters and triesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids; ester oils containing at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular containing between 17 and 70 carbon atoms; hydrocarbon-based plant oils; sucrose esters; vinylpyrrolidone/l -hexadecene copolymers; oils comprising at least one carbonate function; and mixtures thereof.
• ester oils containing at least 17 carbon atoms mention may be made of monoesters, diesters or triesters.
• the ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated.
• oils are chosen from:
• the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
• the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.
• fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instance alcohols derived from plant materials (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.).
• Use may also be made of other long-chain alcohols, for instance ether alcohols or "Guerbet" alcohols.
• the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
• fatty alcohols that may preferably be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
• the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.
• hydroxylated diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,
• hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate.
• esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.
• non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil that is suitable for use, mention may also be made of:
• Rl represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Rl + R2 > 17, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Cl 2 to Cl 5 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or poly
• esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R 2 > 17.
• the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
• Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;
• monoesters of a fatty acid comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, and in particular containing from 17 to 22 carbon atoms, and of diols. They may in particular be esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, and of diols, for instance propylene glycol monoisostearate.
• diesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, which diesters are optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic diesters especially comprising between 17 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 17 and 50 carbon atoms in total.
• Use may thus be made more particularly of optionally hydroxylated diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate.
• Use may also be made of diesters of glycol especially of C2-C5, of glycerol or of diglycerol and of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or poly(2-glyceryl) diisostearate (especially such as the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo).
• hydroxylated monoesters and diesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, preferably with a total carbon number ranging from 17 to 70, for instance poly(3 -glyceryl) diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl stearate.
• triesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, especially comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.
• tricarboxylic acid such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate
• glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.
• tetraesters comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, especially with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, poly(2-glyceryl) tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate.
• pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pent
• polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated faty acid and of diol. such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA.
• esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of diol dimer and of faty acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of C to C34, especially of C12 to C22, in particular of Ci 6 to C20 and more particularly of Cis, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® .
• hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), especially of fatty acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for instance the product sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and Ci8-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil.
• saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for instance the product sold under the reference Myritol
• sucrose esters preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based esters of sucrose and of a C2-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and of isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably sucrose diacetate hexakis(2-methylpropanoate), especially the compound whose INCI name is Sucrose acetate isobutyrate (sold especially under the reference Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemicals) and the compounds of INCI name Sucrose polysoyate sold under the reference Crodaderm S by the company Croda, sucrose polybehenate sold under the reference Crodaderm B by the company Croda, sucrose polycottonseedate sold under the reference Crodaderm C by the company Croda; and mixtures thereof.
• sucrose esters preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based esters of sucrose and of a C2-C6 carboxylic acid, in particular those chosen from mixtures of esters of acetic acid and of is
• apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are more particularly chosen from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbons).
• Said linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance:
• polystyrene resin for instance Indopol H-100, Indopol H-300 or Indopol H-1500 sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, - polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the Parleam ® products sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold by the company Amoco, Viseal 20000 sold by the company Synteal, Rewopal PIB 1000 sold by the company Witco or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,
• the content of polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is such that the non-volatile silicone oil(s)/polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 1 , preferably greater than 2.
• the composition comprises at least one polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oil
• the content of this kind of oil is advantageously between 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, it is chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
• composition according to the invention does not comprise any additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s).
• composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oils.
• volatile oil means an oil with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature (25°C), ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular to 13 000 Pa and preferably to 1300 Pa.
• the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and may in particular be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially:
• Cs-Ci 6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
• the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
• PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
• oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt- 1.5 mm 2 /s), DC 200 (5 cSt - 5 mm 2 /s) or DC 200 (3 cSt - 3 mm 2 /s) by Dow Coming or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures. lf the composition comprises any, the content of volatile oil(s) is more particularly such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 0.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and preferably greater than 1.
• the content of volatile oil(s) is less than 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• the content of volatile oil(s) ranges from 0.1 to less than 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one surfactant chosen from ionic, in particular anionic, or nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, from silicone surfactants, which are preferably nonionic, and also mixtures thereof.
• surfactant chosen from ionic, in particular anionic, or nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, from silicone surfactants, which are preferably nonionic, and also mixtures thereof.
• the composition comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant. More particularly, it comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8.
• the composition may comprise at least one additional surfactant chosen from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants with an HLB of less than 8, or from anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, and also mixtures thereof.
• composition may optionally comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 and at least one silicone surfactant, which is preferably nonionic.
• emulsions may optionally comprise at least one additional surfactant chosen from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 and/or anionic hydrocarbon- based surfactants.
• the surfactant content ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition is preferably in the form of an oil- in- water emulsion.
• Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with a high HLB
• the composition may comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon- based surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 (HLB: hydrophilic-lipophilic balance; within the Griffin sense as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256), and preferably greater than 8.
• HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
• the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen especially from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of polyethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
• the nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non- polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or non- polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or non- polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and polyoxyethylenated or non- polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
• Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from
• polyethylene oxide alcohols - or polyoxyethylenated alcohols examples include polyethylene oxide (ethylene oxide) alcohols - or polyoxyethylenated alcohols, and the poly(ethylene oxide) ethers - or polyoxyethylenated ethers).
• Mention may be made, for example, of (1NC1 name) PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG- 150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG- 10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
• Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from
• Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0, preferably greater than 0, to 100. Mention may be made, for example, of sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).
• EO ethylene oxide
• Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0, preferably greater than 0, to 100.
• EO ethylene oxide
• Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units.
• the alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Cy/C -alkylpolyglucosidc (1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711 ® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110 ® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP ® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
• alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that may be mentioned are Crodesta Fl50, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. Sucrose monooleate, monomyristate and monostearate are also suitable for use.
• polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Mention may be made, for example, of hexaglyceryl monolaurate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl- 10 laurate, polyglyceryl- 10 stearate, polyglyceryl- 10 oleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.
• EO ethylene oxide
• Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Chimyl Alcohol 100.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant, chosen, in particular, from surfactants with an HLB value of less than
• surfactants examples include: 1) (C8-C3o)alkyl ethers of polyethylene oxide) preferably such as those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 4.
• examples that may especially be mentioned include laureth-2; steareth-2; oleth-2; ceteth-2; ceteareth-3; trideceth-3;
• polyoxyalkylenated C12-C20 fatty acid polyesters which are preferably polyhydroxylated, containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsifying properties.
• these polymers are block polymers, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks.
• the fatty acid of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably contains from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the esters may be chosen especially from oleates, palmitates and stearates.
• the polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
• a polymeric surfactant that is particularly suitable for preparing the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate containing 30 EO, sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company Croda.
• (C8-C3o)alkyl and (C8-C3o)polyalkyl esters of sorbitan for instance sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, mixtures of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121 sold by the company Croda), or sorbitan glyceryl isostearate; sorbitan isostearate mixed with hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid and white wax (Arlacel 986 sold by the company Croda), and mixtures thereof.
• (C8-C3o)alkyl and poly(C8-C3o)alkyl esters of (poly)glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4. Mention may be made, for example, of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform TGI sold by the company Cognis), glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or as mixtures.
• polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt
• polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate
• Lameform TGI sold by the company Cognis
• glyceryl isostearate glyce
• composition may optionally comprise one or more ionic, in particular anionic, surfactants, which are preferably hydrocarbon-based.
• surfactants may be chosen from salts of alkali metals especially such as sodium or potassium, or alternatively of primary or secondary amine or alkanolamine, which is in particular of C2-C4, of the following compounds:
• These compounds generally comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, in their longest hydrocarbon-based chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, and linear, branched or cyclic. They may also comprise up to 20 oxyalkylene units (C2-C3), preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxy ethylene units): alkyl ether sulfates,
• salts of fatty acids especially of C8-C20, in particular monocarboxylic salts
• carboxylates such as N-acylamino acids, alkyl glycol carboxylates, ether carboxylates, amido ether carboxylates;
• amino acid salts in particular sarcosinates, alaninates, glutamates, aspartates and glycinates, sulfonates, such as alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular alkanolamine or alkali metal (especially such as sodium) salts of dodecylbenzene sulfonate,
• isethionates such as acyl isethionates
• taurates such as N-acyl methyl taurates, in particular N-acyl methyl taurates,
• sulfosuccinates such as alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially dioctyl sulfosuccinate salts, alkylsulfoacetates,
• polypeptides obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and especially from wheat and oat.
• the composition comprises not more than 2.5% by weight, more particularly not more than 1.5% by weight, preferably not more than 1% by weight, or even not more than 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of salts of alkali metals, of amine or alkanolamine, or of fatty acids, especially of Cx-C ' 20.
• composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one silicone surfactant, which is preferably nonionic.
• the silicone surfactant(s) may be chosen from compounds with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, or less than 8.
• nonionic silicone surfactants that are suitable for use, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols bearing an alkyl or alkoxy chain on the side or at the end of the silicone backbone, containing, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, branched (poly)glycerolated polysiloxanes, and also crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, and mixtures thereof.
• alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols examples include the compounds of formula (I) below:
• - PE represents (-C 2 H 4 0) x -(C 3 H 6 0) y -R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0; preferably, R represents a hydrogen atom;
• - m ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 1 to 10;
• - n ranging from 10 to 200, preferably from 10 to 100;
• - q ranging from 0 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3.
• dimethicone copolyols use may be made of those corresponding more particularly to formula (11) below:
• - A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
• - B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
• - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
• - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
• - z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30, preferably ranging from 0 to 20.
• silicone surfactants that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of:
• dimethicone copolyols for instance those sold under the names KF-6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone), KF- 6028 (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), X-22-6711D (PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone in dimethicone), sold by the company Shin-Etsu; the dimethicone copolyols sold under the names Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid (PEG- 12 dimethicone); Dow Coming 3225C ® (PEG/PPG- 18/18 dimethicone in a mixture of cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (P
• Abil Care 85 bis-PEG/PPG-l6/l6 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone as a mixture with capric/caprylic acid triglyceride.
• alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl PEG/PPG- 18/18 methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of lauryl methicone containing on average 18 mol of ethylene oxide and 18 mol of propylene oxide, sold under the name Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Coming; cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of cetyl dimethicone and of an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 1 mol of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and also the mixture of cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
• Emulsion surfactants that may also be mentioned include, in particular for water-in-oil emulsions, crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as the products obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5 412 004 and the examples of US-A-5 811 487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of patent US-A-5 412 004, and such as the product sold under the references KSG 21 and KSG-210 by the company Shin-Etsu.
• the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol that is used is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, especially the product whose INCI name is Cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 Dimethicone, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
• Use may also be made of a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for instance the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
• the silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone copolyols described previously, alone or as mixtures.
• silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone), dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, PEG dimethicone, PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicones (INCI name), and also mixtures thereof.
• Use may also be made of a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for instance the product sold under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone).
• composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, in which the aqueous phase preferably constitutes the continuous phase of the emulsion (direct emulsion).
• composition with an aqueous continuous phase more particularly means that a pH value can be measured for the composition with a suitable electrode (for example an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo).
• a suitable electrode for example an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo.
• composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition.
• the water content is between 10% and 70% by weight, preferably between 15% and 65% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, besides water, at least one water-soluble solvent.
• water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
• the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 15% by weight (limits inclusive) relative to the weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms of between 0 and 10% by weight (limits inclusive), advantageously between 0 and 5% by weight (limits inclusive) relative to the weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms.
• said monoalcohol(s) comprising between 2 and 8 carbon atoms are chosen from ethanol, butanol, methanol and isopropanol.
• composition may optionally comprise at least one polyol chosen more particularly from the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C8 and preferably C3-C6 compounds, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
• the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyol content represents less than 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to less than 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to an even more advantageous mode, the polyol content varies from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also known as an aqueous-phase-thickening polymer).
• hydrophilic thickening polymer also known as an aqueous-phase-thickening polymer
• this thickening polymer may be chosen from:
• polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, most particularly acrylate/C 10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2; copolymers of methacrylic acid, of methyl methacrylate, of methylstyrene isocyanate and of PEG-40 behenate (INCI name: polyacrylate-3) (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by the company Dow),
• - copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate for instance the acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC, or the acrylamido methylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer especially such as the product used in the commercial product sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);
• hydrophilic gelling polymers examples include:
• cellulose polymers in particular (Ci-C3)hydroxyalkylcelluloses, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quatemized cellulose derivatives;
• vinyl polymers for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol,
• polymers of natural origin such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for instance konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;
• galactomannans and derivatives thereof for instance konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;
• the thickening polymer is chosen from copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and in particular from copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof.
• the content of hydrophilic thickening polymer is between 0.01 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight and advantageously 0.1 to 0.8%, relative to the weight of the composition.
• a composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dyestuff.
• it is chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or mineral dyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
• the term "dyestuff means a compound that is capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
• the water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are more particularly water- soluble dyes.
• water-soluble dye means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
• water-soluble is intended to characterize the capacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25°C, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/1 (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/1.
• water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; Cl: 15850), DC Red 22 (Cl: 45380), DC Red 28 (Cl: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (Cl: 73360), DC Red 33 (Cl: 17200), FDC Red 40 (Cl 16035), DC Orange 4 (Cl: 15510 Na salt), FDC Yellow 5 (Cl: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (Cl: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (Cl: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (Cl: 42053), DC Green 5 (Cl: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (Cl: 42090).
• sources of water-soluble dyestuff(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.
• the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capxanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
• They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.
• water-soluble dyestuffs are especially permitted for food use.
• Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, El60a-g, El50a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
• liposoluble dyes examples include dyes of fluoran type, for instance Sudan Red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, b-carotene, Sudan Brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof.
• dyes of fluoran type for instance Sudan Red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, b-carotene, Sudan Brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof.
• pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in the medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition and/or deposit produced with the composition.
• the pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).
• the pigments may be chosen from monochromic pigments, lakes, nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
• the mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
• the organic pigments may be, for example:
• D&C Blue No. 4 D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11 , D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. l l, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
• the pigments may have undergone a hydrophobic treatment.
• the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
• the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
• the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
• the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
• alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
• Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patent application EP-A-l 086 683.
• the pigments may also have undergone a hydrophilic treatment, for example with polyalkoxylated silicones.
• pigments that are in a form dispersed in water, sorbitol, glycerol or glycols, alone or as mixtures, for instance the products of the Covarine, Covasorb and Covasop ranges from Sensient, the pigments of the WD series from Daito, and Worlee Base AQ from Worlee.
• nacre means coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
• nacres examples include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
• the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour and/or glint.
• nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the first composition
• the content of dyestuffs is advantageously between 0.05% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.
• filler should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different from dyestuffs.
• silica kaolin, starch, lauroyllysine, fumed silica particles, which are optionally hydrophilic -treated, mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®) powder, ro ⁇ n-b-alaninc powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industries), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminium oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic
• a composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• the hydrophobic thickener may be chosen from mineral thickeners especially such as organophilic clays; hydrophobic fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels; from organic thickeners such as oil-gelling polymers of the block polymer type, especially triblock or star polymers, resulting from the copolymerization of at least one styrene monomer and of at least one hydrocarbon monomer bearing one or two C2-C5 ethylenic unsaturations, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene and/or pentadiene, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in US-A-5 783 657; polysaccharide alkyl ethers, especially in which the alkyl group is of C1-C24, preferably C1-C10 and better still Ci-Ce, described especially in EP 898 958, and in particular alkyl
• this thickener is preferably chosen from mineral thickeners.
• Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
• Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
• hectorites modified with a quaternary amine more specifically with a C 10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium halide, such as a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38 V ® , Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorites, such as Bentone 27 V.
• C 10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium halide such as a chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite)
• CTFA name Disteardimonium hectorite
• quatemium-l 8 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34 by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst and Claytone 40 by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; or quatemium-l 8/benzalkonium bentonites, such as that sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay.
• the thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, or with distearyldimethylammonium chloride .
• the hydrophobic firmed silicas may be obtained by modification of the surface of the silica via a chemical reaction that generates a reduction in the number of silanol groups, these groups possibly being substituted especially with hydrophobic groups.
• the hydrophobic groups may be:
• Silicas thus treated are known as Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot;
• Silicas thus treated are known as Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
• Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
• the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
• Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.
• Hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be mentioned, for example, include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (1NC1 name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Coming, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
• the elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes are generally partially or totally crosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure.
• the elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes combined with a fatty phase are generally in the form of a gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane combined with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. They may be chosen especially from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886. According to said patent application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking of at least:
• the hydrophobic thickener may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise any common cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from waxes, pasty compounds, additional moisturizers (also known as humectants), other than the abovementioned polyols, antioxidants, fragrances, menthol or menthol derivatives, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride), pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
• additional moisturizers also known as humectants
• Another subject of the invention is a process for making up and/or caring for the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to the invention.
• composition according to the invention may be packaged in any type of device that is common in the field of fluid cosmetic compositions intended especially to be applied to the lips or the face (for instance the cheeks).
• ft may thus be envisaged to use devices containing a container comprising an applicator equipped with a ball (roll-on), a container of dispensing pen type, terminated with an end provided with at least one orifice through which the composition may be expelled, or alternatively terminated with a felt or with a flocked tip, or with a brush; a container comprising a dip applicator, for instance a brush.
• Such devices may or may not be provided with a mechanism for dispensing the composition making it possible to expel said composition from the container to the application member, or to the support. It should be noted that this mechanism may advantageously comprise a means for metering out the composition.
• composition whose ingredients are listed in the table below is prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).
• the sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in the amodimethicone emulsion with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the polysorbate 60 is added to the preceding mixture, with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the Red 33 is then introduced into the mixture thus obtained, with continued stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is added with stirring until the mixture has thickened and a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• the mixture of the silicone resin and the isododecane is then poured slowly into the mixture obtained previously while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is left stirring for 10 minutes.
• a creamy emulsion is obtained, which does not flow, and is homogeneous and stable.
• composition is easy to apply to the lips without running.
• a thin, sparingly tacky, comfortable film which does not migrate into the fine lines and which does not stain the teeth is obtained.
• the deposit obtained is fresh, sparingly tacky and has no sensation of dryness.
• composition comprises any, after storage in a closed bottle for one week, at 20°C.
• composition is deposited in several stainless steel dishes 100 pm deep and is levelled off as quickly as possible. The dishes are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.
• the apparatus used is a TACT2 ⁇ texturometer.
• the clip mounted on the apparatus grips an AU4G cylinder 6 mm in diameter at the end of which is attached a smooth beige-coloured end piece made of synthetic skin, which has the same diameter and is 2 mm thick.
• the end piece is cleaned with ethanol between each measurement.
• the tackiness is characterized by the separation force measured during the pressure reduction (pull phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This force is expressed positively in joules per square metre.
• composition whose ingredients are listed in the table below is prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):
• the sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the polysorbate 60 is added to the preceding mixture, with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the Red 33 is then introduced into the mixture thus obtained, with continued stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is then added with stirring until the mixture has thickened and a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• the mixture of the silicone resin and the isododecane is then poured slowly into the mixture obtained previously while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is left stirring for 10 minutes.
• the mixture of amino silicone and dimethicone is then added slowly over 10 minutes, with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• a creamy emulsion is obtained, which does not flow, and is homogeneous and stable.
• composition is easy to apply to the lips without running.
• a thin, sparingly tacky, comfortable film which does not migrate into the fine lines and which does not stain the teeth is obtained.
• the deposit obtained is fresh, sparingly tacky and has no sensation of dryness.
• the deposit obtained is fresh, satiny at the start and becomes glossy to very glossy very rapidly after application.
• composition whose ingredients are listed in the table below is prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):
• fluid amino silicone copolymer of dimethylsiloxane- aminomethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, with an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25°C
• first tank 1800 g of dimethylsiloxane bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, with a viscosity of 61 500 mPa.s at 25°C, are added with stirring, and the stirring is continued for 2 hours at room temperature.
• steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG100 stearate are mixed, and heated to 60°C. This temperature is maintained until a liquid mixture is obtained, and 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-lO (80% active material) are then added.
• this second tank creamy paste
• the first tank containing the silicones
• the mixture obtained is then mixed for 30 minutes at room temperature (20- 25°C).
• the mixing steps are performed to obtain a homogeneous mixture; they are performed at room temperature. 79.6 g of demineralized water are added and the mixture is stirred for 60 minutes.
• the size of the particles of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, Nano-ZS model, based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method.
• PCS photon correlation spectroscopy
• the particle size D50 is measured when the evaluation algorithm is“cumulants analysis”. 0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of deionized water are added and the mixture is stirred so as to obtain the test solution. The test solution is placed in the measuring tank (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.
• the size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% of cumulative distribution.
• D50 170 nm
• this distribution is on a volume basis.
• the sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in the amodimethicone emulsion with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the polysorbate 60 is dissolved at 50°C in the preceding mixture, with stirring using a Rayneri blender and the mixture is allowed to cool with stirring once dissolution has taken place.
• the Red 33 is added to the preceding phase, with continued stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the silicone resin and isododecane are then poured slowly into the mixture obtained previously while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes.
• a creamy emulsion is obtained, which does not flow, and is homogeneous and stable.
• a thin, sparingly tacky, comfortable film which does not migrate into the fine lines and which does not stain the teeth is obtained.
• the deposit obtained is fresh, glossy to very glossy, non-tacky and has no sensation of dryness.
• composition whose ingredients are collated in the table below is prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).
• the sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the polysorbate 60 is dissolved at 50°C in the preceding mixture, with stirring using a Rayneri blender and the mixture is allowed to cool with stirring once dissolution has taken place.
• the Red 33 is added to the preceding phase, with continued stirring using a Rayneri blender.
• the thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is then added with stirring until the mixture has thickened, without any gel lumps.
• the silicone resin and isododecane are then poured slowly into the mixture obtained previously while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes.
• the amodimethicone and the remaining surfactants are then poured into the preceding mixture with continued stirring, and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
• a creamy emulsion is obtained (which does not flow), which is homogeneous and stable.
• a thin, sparingly tacky, comfortable film which does not migrate into the fine lines and which does not stain the teeth is obtained.
• the deposit obtained is fresh, glossy and non-tacky, and has no sensation of dryness.

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• 2017
  • 2017-12-22 FR FR1762932A patent/FR3075632B1/fr active Active
• 2018
  • 2018-12-20 KR KR1020207014652A patent/KR20200076710A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2018-12-20 CN CN201880081568.7A patent/CN111491601A/zh active Pending
  • 2018-12-20 WO PCT/EP2018/086249 patent/WO2019122158A1/en unknown
  • 2018-12-20 EP EP18826674.6A patent/EP3727280A1/de not_active Withdrawn

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