Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/77—Sapindaceae (Soapberry family), e.g. lychee or soapberry
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
  • A61K2236/30—Extraction of the material
  • A61K2236/33—Extraction of the material involving extraction with hydrophilic solvents, e.g. lower alcohols, esters or ketones
  • A61K2236/333—Extraction of the material involving extraction with hydrophilic solvents, e.g. lower alcohols, esters or ketones using mixed solvents, e.g. 70% EtOH

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of the plant Nephelium lappaceum.
• Nephelium lappaceum also called rambutan
• the plant Nephelium lappaceum is a tree found in Southeast Asia, particularly in Malaysia and Indonesia. It is a tree 10 to 20 meters high, producing a large amount of fruit.
• the fruit is known for its organoleptic properties and contains sugars, vitamin C and iron. Decoctions of roots or dried leaves were used to fight fever.
• the use of the N. lappaceum plant in cosmetic compositions is generally known.
• the application JP2002145730 describes a seed extract for its antioxidant effect, whitening of the skin as well as for its hydration properties.
• this application does not describe or disclose in particular the use of an extract of said plant to reduce the harmful effects of pollution.
• EP3069763 discloses an antioxidant cosmetic composition comprising an antioxidant polyphenolic agent.
• this application does not disclose any extract of N. lappaceum or any of the phenolic compounds disclosed in Thitilertdecha and Rakariyatham.
• the application CN105534812 discloses a composition having anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and moisturizing properties of the skin, said composition comprising a mixture of several plant extracts including rambutan. However, no part of Rambutan plant is disclosed.
• the application WO201118278 discloses the use of rambutan seed oil for use in a cosmetic composition for moisturizing purpose, and more generally for the care of keratin materials, particularly the hair. But this application does not disclose the use of an extract of N. lappaceum to fight against the harmful effects of pollution on the skin and / or hair.
• the extract according to the invention is an extract of N. lappaceum.
• the country of origin of the extract is Vietnam.
• the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that such an extract has an effectiveness in reducing the negative effects induced by the pollution.
• the advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it is active to prevent and / or fight against the effects of pollution in the skin but also in the hair.
• Another advantage of this extract is that it has the ability to both reduce the effects of pollution by reducing their adhesion to the surface of the skin and hair, but it also increases the cellular metabolism, especially in the hair , stimulating several targets that help protect against these pollutants.
• ⁇ is a chemically stable extract that has no allergenic properties and can be easily produced on an industrial scale.
• it is an active ingredient energizing and depolluting for the skin and / or skin appendages, preferably hair. It is capable of increasing both the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or the radiance of the skin and / or appendages, advantageously hair.
• a first object of the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of the plant N. lappaceum to reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the skin and / or skin appendages, preferably the hair.
• Cosmetic use is understood here to mean a non-pharmaceutical use, therefore, which is not intended for therapeutic purposes, the extract according to the invention being intended to be applied to all or part of a zone of healthy, non-pathological skin.
• Healthy skin area is understood to mean an area of skin on which the extract according to the invention is applied and described as “non-pathological” by a dermatologist, that is to say having no infection, scar , disease, inflammation or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or wounds and / or other dermatoses.
• the skin includes any part of the body and / or face, including the scalp.
• cutaneous appendages also means hair, eyelashes, hair, and preferentially hair.
• the cosmetic use of the extract according to the invention may be orally or topically, preferably topically.
• the extract is in the form of food supplement, powder, capsules, capsules or gel. It can then be included in a nutraceutical composition.
• the cosmetic use of the extract according to the invention consists in the topical application of the extract or of a cosmetic composition comprising it on all or part of the body and / or or the chosen face among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, belly, Vietnameselleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, preferably the face, very advantageously the scalp and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
• the extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable extract
• topically acceptable means a non-irritating extract for the skin or hair, non-toxic and not inducing an allergic reaction.
• topical application is meant the direct application of the extract or of a cosmetic composition comprising it or their vaporization to the surface of the skin and / or cutaneous appendages, preferentially hair.
• the extract according to the invention is used to reduce the harmful effects of pollution, and this by maintaining and / or increasing the cell viability and / or the synthesis of ATP and / or mitochondrial activity and / or decreasing cell damage and / or cellular senescence, advantageously by increasing cell viability and / or ATP synthesis and / or mitochondrial activity, most advantageously by increasing cell viability and or the synthesis of ATP.
• the term "decrease the harmful effects of pollution” decrease the unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of pollutants in the skin, preferably the scalp, and / or skin appendages, preferably hair. These effects are distinct from antioxidant activity.
• the extract of N. lappaceum is not used as an antioxidant and / or antiradical.
• Polytants means exhaust fumes and / or cigarette smoke and / or dust and / or pollutants, including particulate matter, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, carbon monoxide, nitrogen, ozone, heavy metals such as cadmium, mercury, nickel, lead, chromium, barium, copper, titanium, fine particles selected from PM 2.5 and PM 10, as well as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons such as than benzopyrene or benzoanthracene.
• the expression "increase ATP synthesis” is intended to increase the synthesis of ATP by at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, advantageously at least 15%, preferably at least 25%, more preferably at least 40% in non-pathological skin fibroblasts, in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the level of ATP measured in the absence of the extract according to the invention.
• this increase is measured in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a), advantageously also by enzymatic method under the conditions as described in Example 2a).
• the term "increase the synthesis of ATP” increases the synthesis of ATP by at least 15%, preferably at least 25%, more preferably at least 40% in fibroblasts of the ATP.
• papilla of the hair follicle, non-pathological in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the level of ATP measured in the absence of extract according to the invention.
• this increase is measured in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a), still advantageously by enzymatic method, under the conditions as described in Example 2b) .
• the mitochondrial activity is meant an increase of at least 15%, preferably at least 30%, more preferably at least 40% of said activity in the presence of the extract according to the invention, advantageously measured. in normal papilla fibroblasts, that is to say non-pathological, advantageously still in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a), in comparison with the level of mitochondrial activity measured in the absence of the extract according to the invention.
• said activity is measured by optical density after reduction of MTT (3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide) in the presence of succinate dehydrogenase under the conditions described in Example 3 .
• the expression "decrease cell senescence” means a decrease in the auto fluorescence of fibroblasts of at least 10%, preferably at least 20% in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison of the auto fluorescence measured in said fibroblasts without extract according to the invention.
• the auto-fluorescence is measured in fibroblasts of the papilla of the hair follicle, more advantageously of a model of the neo-papilla type, more preferably in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a).
• the auto fluorescence is measured by flow cytometry under the conditions of Example 4.
• the expression "increase cell viability” is intended to mean an increase in cell viability of at least 5%, advantageously at least 10%, and still more preferably at least 20% of the cell viability of the micro cells.
• -follicles in the presence of the extract according to the invention in comparison with the level detected without extract according to the invention.
• the increase is measured in the presence of seed extract prepared according to Example 1a), advantageously still by colorimetric method, under the conditions described in Example 6a).
• the term "decrease cell damage” is intended to reduce cell lysis at the level of the micro-follicles, advantageously the hair follicle, of at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 40% in the presence of the extract according to the invention in comparison with the level of cell lysis measured in the absence of the extract according to the invention.
• it is a reduction of the cellular damage measured in the presence of the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a).
• this reduction is measured by colorimetric method in the presence of lactate dehydrogenase under the conditions described in Example 6b).
• reducing cell damage does not mean decreasing the oxidation of the cells, the extract of N. lappaceum according to the invention not being used as an antioxidant and / or antiradical agent.
• “decrease cell damage” means to reduce the damage of the hair fiber by decreasing the degradation of one or more of its components selected from keratin, vitamins, iron, zinc, amino acids, and advantageously tryptophan, of at least 2%, advantageously at least 5%, still advantageously at least 10% and very advantageously at least 15% at the level of the hair fiber, in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with of said degradation measured in the absence of the extract according to the invention, and preferably the seed extract prepared according to Example 1a).
• this reduction is measured by evaluating the tryptophan content at the level of the capillary fiber, preferentially the discolored hair fiber, more preferably by measuring the fluorescence by microscopy and image analysis or by fluorescence spectroscopy or fluorimetry.
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of the pollution by decreasing the adhesion and / or the penetration of the pollutants, preferably the adhesion, and preferably fine particles and / or aromatic hydrocarbons.
• the extract will thus be present in an amount effective to reduce the adhesion of pollutants when said percentage is reduced by at least 2%, preferably by at least 5%, more preferably by at least 10% in the presence of the extract. according to the invention, in comparison with the percentage of adhesion of pollutants measured without extract according to the invention.
• the extract will be a seed extract, preferably that prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a).
• it will be the seed extract prepared according to Example 1h).
• the pollutants may be deposited on locks of hair and their effects may for example be measured by the use of a so-called pollution chamber, allowing the release of exhaust gases and particles.
• the locks of hair will be exposed to pollutants and their effects will be measured by microscopy and image analysis.
• the reduction of the adhesion of the pollutants in the presence of the seed extract of N. lappaceum, preferably the extract according to Example la), will be evaluated by measuring the density ( ⁇ ) of residual pollutant particles on several strands of hair fibers previously treated with the seed extract according to Example 1a).
• the measurement of the density ( ⁇ ) of the residual polluting particles will be conducted on strands of discolored hair fibers, therefore more sensitive to polluting particles, previously treated or not with the seed extract.
• the seed extract according to Example 1a preferably the seed extract according to Example 1a).
• the extract according to the invention reduces the harmful effects of pollution by decreasing the increased cellular auto-fluorescence in the presence of pollutants as defined in the sense of the present invention, advantageously the benzopyrene.
• the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective to decrease the increased cellular auto-fluorescence in the presence of benzopyrene when the decrease is at least 35%, preferably at least 45%, very preferably at least minus 70%, compared to the level of auto fluorescence detected in the presence of benzopyrene.
• the auto-fluorescence will be measured in fibroblasts of the dermal papilla, advantageously in the presence of the seed extract, very advantageously the seed extract prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a), as described in Example 5.
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of pollution by decreasing the increased cell granulosity in the presence of pollutants as defined in the sense of the present invention, advantageously benzopyrene.
• the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective to reduce the increased cell granulosity in the presence of benzopyrene when this reduction is at least 30%, preferably at least 35%, more preferably at least 40% in comparison with the level of cellular granulosity detected in the presence of benzopyrene.
• this granulosity is measured in fibroblasts of the dermal papilla, advantageously in the presence of the seed extract, very advantageously the seed extract prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a), as described in Example 5.
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of the pollution by increasing the decreased cell volume in the presence of pollutants, advantageously benzopyrene.
• the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective to increase the decreased cell volume in the presence of benzopyrene when this increase is at least 1%, preferably at least 2%, in comparison with the cell volume detected in the presence of benzopyrene.
• this volume is measured in fibroblasts of the dermal papilla, advantageously in the presence of the seed extract, very advantageously the seed extract prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a).
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of pollution by decreasing increased cellular apoptosis in the presence of pollutants as defined in the sense of the present invention, advantageously benzopyrene.
• the extract according to the invention is in an amount effective to reduce cellular apoptosis increased in the presence of benzopyrene when this decrease is at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, compared to the level of apoptosis detected in the presence of benzopyrene.
• this apoptosis is measured in fibroblasts of the dermal papilla, advantageously in the presence of the seed extract, very advantageously the seed extract prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a).
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of pollution at the level of the skin by increasing by at least 2%, preferably by at least 5%, more preferably by at least less than 10%, and very preferably at least 15% the total protein content measured in skin fibroblasts grown in the presence of heavy metals, preferably mercury and / or cadmium, and in the presence of the extract according to the invention. invention, in comparison with the total protein content measured in the absence of the extract according to the invention.
• the seed extract prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a).
• the extract reduces the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, advantageously the scalp, and / or cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair, by decreasing the expression Heat Shock Proteins (Heat Shock Proteins) markers, advantageously HSP27, of which the expression is increased in the presence of pollutants as defined according to the present invention, and advantageously cigarette smoke.
• Heat Shock Proteins Heat Shock Proteins
• the extract according to the invention is therefore used as an energizing and / or depolluting agent for the skin and / or cutaneous appendages, advantageously hair, preferentially depolluting.
• the extract according to the invention makes it possible to increase the radiance of the complexion and / or the homogeneity of the complexion and / or to prevent a loss of radiance and / or homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or cutaneous appendages , advantageously hair.
• the use of the extract is to increase the radiance of the complexion of the skin and / or cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair, and / or the homogeneity of the complexion and / or to prevent loss of radiance and / or homogeneity of the complexion, by increasing the synthesis of ATP.
• the increase in the radiance of the complexion and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or cutaneous appendages, preferentially hair, may be measured in vivo.
• the expression "increase the radiance of the complexion" of the skin means a decrease in the dullness and / or yellowing of the skin of at least 1%, preferably at least 2%.
• this increase in the radiance of the complexion is measured after 15 days, 28 days and / or 56 days, still advantageously at the level of the hemi-face of a population of women.
• the increase in the radiance of the complexion is evaluated by measuring the luminescence of the skin, advantageously by measuring the L * parameter. Said parameter can be measured by several techniques chosen from chromamétrie or image analysis.
• the parameter L * will be measured by chromametry.
• the radiance of the complexion is measured by clinical evaluation. It can be performed using a Goniolux® type device or by image analysis. Advantageously, it will be performed by image analysis.
• the extract according to the invention may be all or part of the plant N. lappaceum selected from the bark, leaves, branches, stem, whole fruit, pulp, seeds, pericarp, root.
• the extract is chosen from leaves, pulp, seeds and / or pericarp.
• the term "seed extract” means any extract of all or part of the N. lappaceum plant comprising the seeds, advantageously comprising the seeds only.
• the seed extract does not include the pericarp or the pulp.
• the seed extract is not a fruit extract.
• pericarp the shell of the fruit.
• the extract can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, chosen from maceration, hot decoction, grinding, ultrasonic grinding, using a mixer, or even Extract can be obtained by extraction in water under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration.
• the extraction may be carried out from dry or fresh material, advantageously dry, in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, advantageously from 1% to 20%, very advantageously from 5% to 15%, and still advantageously from 10% to 15%, and even more preferably 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the material and the extraction solvent.
• the extraction may be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4 ° C to 300 ° C.
• the extraction will be conducted at a temperature of 4 ° C to 25 ° C, more preferably 4 ° C to 20 ° C, more preferably at room temperature, that is to say say at about 20 ° C.
• the extraction will be performed at a temperature of 60 ° C to 90 ° C, preferably 70 ° C to 85 ° C, more preferably at a temperature of 80 ° C.
• the extraction will be carried out in water under subcritical conditions, at a temperature ranging from 100 ° C. to 300 ° C., advantageously from 120 ° C. to 250 ° C., still advantageously at 120 ° C.
• the extraction can be carried out at a single given temperature or at increasing successive temperatures.
• the extraction will be carried out at a single temperature of 120 ° C.
• it will be conducted according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures of between 100 ° C. and 200 ° C., such as 120 ° C., 140 ° C. and then 160 ° C. or 110 ° C., 130 ° C. and then 150 ° C. or 120 ° C, 145 ° C and then 170 ° C.
• subcritical conditions extraction is meant extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature greater than 100 ° C. and pressure of less than 221 bars, such that the water remains in the liquid state but has a viscosity and a surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.
• the extraction pressure will be between 150 bar and 250 bar, preferably between 200 and 221 bar, advantageously in a pressure extraction autoclave.
• the extract may be obtained by extraction under supercritical conditions (CO 2 ) in the presence of a co-solvent.
• the co-solvent will be ethanol.
• the extraction may be conducted in the presence of a dialkyl carbonate type solvent CO-C I O, as described in application FR 1757173 incorporated herein by reference.
• the extraction can be carried out for a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably for a period of 1 hour to 5 hours, and still advantageously for a period of 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the extraction will be conducted for a period of 2 hours.
• the extract according to the invention may be obtained by extraction in a solvent or solvent mixture, preferably a protic polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol mixture, water / glycol or water / polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (w / w) ), advantageously in water as sole solvent.
• a solvent or solvent mixture preferably a protic polar solvent
• the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction.
• the expression "extract obtained by aqueous extraction” means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight. , more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing any alcohol, more particularly containing only water.
• the extract is an extract of N. lappaceum seeds prepared in water as the sole solvent.
• the extract is an extract of N. lappaceum seed oil.
• the extract can be obtained in a particular manner by extraction under supercritical conditions (CO 2 ) or by extraction in a C 8 -C 14 dialkyl carbonate solvent or by extraction with heptane.
• the extraction may be carried out in the presence of a nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from lauryl glucoside sold under the name Plantacare® 1200UP by BASF or else caprylyl / capryl glucoside. (Plantacare® 810 UP), preferably caprylyl / capryl glucoside (Plantacare® 810 UP).
• the concentration by weight of the nonionic surfactant may be between 0.5% and 5%, advantageously between 0.5 and 1%, more advantageously it will be 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
• the extract is obtained by maceration of an amount of 10% by weight of ground seeds relative to the weight of the solvent and of the material, during a period of 2 hours at a temperature of temperature of 20 ° C.
• the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered under the conditions described in Example 1a).
• the extract is obtained by maceration of an amount of 5% by weight of ground seeds relative to the total weight of the solvent and the material, in water as a solvent, a temperature of 20 ° C, during a period of 24 hours.
• the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered under the conditions described in Example 1b).
• the extract is obtained by maceration of a quantity of 20% of seeds ground in water as the solvent, for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 20 ° C.
• the extract is then centrifuged, decanted, filtered and then atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract, under the conditions described in Example 1c).
• the extract is obtained by maceration of a quantity of 10% by weight of crushed seeds based on the total weight of the material and the solvent, in a mixture of ethanol: water (80: 20; v / v), at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
• the extract is then centrifuged, decanted, filtered and then atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract, under the conditions described in Example 1d).
• the extract will be obtained by maceration of an amount of 10% by weight of dried pericarp of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of pericarp and water as the sole solvent during a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 20 ° C.
• the resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered.
• the extract is in powder form, under the conditions described in Example 1c).
• the extraction is carried out by maceration in water as the only solvent from an amount of 10% by weight fruit pulp N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the pulp and water at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
• the crude extract is decanted, centrifuged and filtered, under the conditions described in Example 1f).
• the extraction is performed from an amount of 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the leaves and water, a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
• the crude extract is decanted, centrifuged and filtered under the conditions described in Example 1g).
• the extraction is performed from an amount of 10 '% by weight of dried seeds of N. lappaceum C0 2 supercritical conditions under the conditions described in Example lh).
• the extraction is performed from an amount of 5% by weight of the dried pericarp relative to the total weight of pericarp and water as the sole solvent, for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 20 ° C.
• the extract obtained was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered, under the conditions of Example li).
• the extract will be filtered at a cut-off point of 0.45 ⁇ . Additional steps of bleaching and / or deodorization can be performed on the extract at any stage of the extraction and according to the techniques known to those skilled in the art.
• the extract may be decolorized with activated charcoal.
• the extract obtained under the conditions described in examples la) and lb), ld) to li) can then be concentrated by evaporation of the solvent or dried for example by lyophilization or by spraying in the presence of maltodextrins.
• the extract will then be in powder form.
• the extract obtained according to Examples 1a) and 1b), 1d) to 1b) will be atomized in the presence of a concentration by weight of maltodextrins of between 20% and 90%. preferably between 40 and 80%, more preferably 70 to 80% relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.
• the use of the extract reduces the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, preferably the scalp and / or cutaneous appendages, advantageously hair, by increasing cell viability and / or ATP synthesis and / or mitochondrial activity and / or decreasing cellular damage and / or cell senescence, more preferably by increasing ATP synthesis.
• the extract is an extract of leaves, seeds, pericarp and / or pulp, more preferably a seed extract.
• the extract according to the invention may be used alone in the form of a cosmetic active ingredient or included in a cosmetic composition.
• it is preferably solubilized in an aqueous solution containing glycerin, advantageously present at a concentration of 60% to 90%, more advantageously from 70% to 85%, very advantageously at a concentration of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
• the extract is then in liquid form.
• the extract will be solubilized and / or diluted in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol, and / or or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
• a particularly polar solvent such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol, and / or or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or a mixture thereof, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol selected from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
• the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight. of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient.
• the extract obtained is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
• the aqueous solution in which the N. lappaceum extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises xanthan gum, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of xanthan gum, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution. more particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.
• the solution in which the N. lappaceum extract is solubilized according to the invention comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.
• Another subject of the invention thus relates to the use of the extract according to the invention, in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, to reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, advantageously leather hairy, and / or cutaneous appendages, preferably hair.
• acceptable means a cosmetic excipient or non-irritating to the skin, inducing no allergic response, and chemically stable.
• the use of the cosmetic composition is to reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the skin and / or and / or skin appendages, preferably hair.
• the cosmetic composition comprising the extract according to the invention, preferably an extract of leaves, pericarp, pulp and / or seeds, very preferably a seed extract, may be used as an energizing cosmetic composition and / or depolluting, advantageously depolluting, still advantageously for the hair.
• the composition may be administered topically or orally.
• said cosmetic composition will be applied topically, advantageously, over all or part of the body chosen from the legs, the feet, the armpits, the hands, the thighs, the belly, the cleavage. , the neck, the arms, the torso, the back, the face, advantageously the face, very advantageously the scalp, and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
• the extract according to the invention will be present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of 1 ⁇ 10 -4 % to 10%, preferably from 1 ⁇ 10 -4 % to 5%, and still more preferably from 1 ⁇ 10 "3 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
• the excipient (s) may be selected from surfactants and / or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, matting agents, gloss agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
• CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.
• the excipient or excipients are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, and the like.
• the cosmetic composition may be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, especially oil-in-water or water -in-oil or multiple or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bread, an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, a shampoo.
• it is a shampoo.
• the cosmetic composition may also comprise other cosmetic agents having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the extract according to the invention, or cosmetic agents with complementary effects.
• compositions such as anti-aging ingredients and / or whitening active ingredients, anti-pollution ingredients and / or promoting the radiance of the complexion.
• Another subject also concerns a cosmetic treatment method comprising the topical or oral administration of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it for increasing the cell viability and / or the synthesis of ATP and / or or mitochondrial activity and / or decrease cellular damage and / or decrease cellular senescence, and / or to reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the skin, preferably the scalp and / or skin appendages, advantageously hair.
• the administration is a topical application.
• the cosmetic treatment method consists in the topical application of the extract according to the invention or a composition comprising it on all or part of the body selected from the legs, the feet, armpits, hands, thighs, abdomen, Vietnameselleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, advantageously the face, very advantageously the scalp, and / or the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair.
• Example 1a A quantity of 10% by weight of ground seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and seeds was obtained by maceration in water as a solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C during a 2 hours period. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered.
• Example 1b 5% by weight of crushed seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and the seeds was obtained by maceration in water as a solvent at a temperature of 20 ° C during a 24 hours period. The crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered.
• Example 1a 20% by weight of crushed seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and the seeds was obtained by maceration in water as a solvent, at a temperature of 20 ° C during a 2 hours period.
• the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered.
• the extract was atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
• Example 1d A quantity of 10% by weight of ground seeds of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of the solvent and the seeds was obtained by maceration in a mixture of ethanol: water (80:20 v / v) as solvent, at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
• the crude extract was centrifuged, decanted and filtered.
• the extract was atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final amount of maltodextrin of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the final extract.
• Example 1e 10% by weight of dried pericarp of N. lappaceum relative to the total weight of pericarp and water as sole solvent was extracted by maceration for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 80 ° C. . The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in powder form.
• EXAMPLE 1 f The extraction was carried out by maceration in water as sole solvent from a quantity of 10% by weight of N. lappaceum fruit pulp with respect to the total weight of the pulp and water, at a temperature of 80 ° C for a period of 1 hour.
• the crude extract was decanted, centrifuged and filtered.
• Example 1g 10% by weight of dried leaves of N. lappaceum based on the total weight of leaves and water as sole solvent was macerated for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 20 ° C. The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in powder form.
• Example 1h 10% of dried seeds were obtained by extraction under supercritical CO 2 conditions, in the presence of ethanol as co-solvent (10%).
• Example 11 5% by weight of dried pericarp relative to the total weight of pericarp and water as sole solvent was extracted by maceration for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 20 ° C. The resulting extract was decanted, centrifuged and the supernatant was filtered. The extract is in liquid form.
• the cellular ATP was extracted with DMSO and assayed on an aliquot of the extract by enzymatic method (Luciferin / Luciferase Complex, ATP Bioluminescence kit ROCHE Diagnostics).
• Non-pathological human fibroblasts from the papilla of the hair follicle were cultured on DMEM medium for 24 hours and then treated for 6 days with the aqueous extract of N. lappaceum seeds according to the invention, at the final concentrations of volume of 0.03% and 0.01% relative to the total volume of the medium.
• the same medium was cultured in the absence of the extract according to the invention (Control).
• the amount of ATP was measured at the end 6 days by enzymatic method (Luciferin / Luciferase Complex, ATP Bioluminescence kit ROCHE Diagnostics).
• the seed extract is an energizing and depolluting active ingredient in the scalp and / or cutaneous appendages, preferentially hair and thus makes it possible to increase the radiance of the complexion and / or the homogeneity of the complexion and / or or to prevent a loss of radiance and / or homogeneity of the complexion.
• Non-pathological human fibroblasts of the hair follicle papilla were cultured for 24 hours and then treated for 6 days with the aqueous extract of N. lappaceum seeds at final concentrations by volume of 0.1% and 0.3% relative to to the total volume of the medium.
• the same medium was cultured in the absence of the extract according to the invention (Control).
• the mitochondrial activity of fibroblasts was measured by reduction of MTT (3- [4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl] -2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide) in the presence of succinate dehydrogenase e.
• the precipitate obtained was extracted with DMSO and the optical density of the DMSO solution was measured at 540 nm.
• the aqueous seed extract of N. lappaceum showed an increase in mitochondrial activity of hair follicle papilla fibroblasts by at least 15% compared to control, up to 47%.
• This mitochondrial activity contributes to the reduction of the harmful effects induced by pollution in the scalp and / or cutaneous appendages, preferentially hair and makes it possible to increase the radiance of the complexion and / or the homogeneity of the complexion and / or prevent a loss of radiance and / or evenness of the complexion.
• EXAMPLE 4 Decrease of the Auto-Fluorescence Parameters in a Neo-papilla-type Cell Model
• DMEM medium comprising the seed extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1a) at the final concentration by volume of 1% relative to the total volume middle.
• the same medium was cultured in the absence of the extract according to the invention (Control). After centrifugation, the pellets were incubated for 5 days at 37 ° C (C0 2 5%). The aggregates were rinsed in PBS buffer and the cells were lysed in a protease mixture with EDTA.
• the seed extract has demonstrated its ability to reduce the auto fluorescence of fibroblasts by at least 20%, thus reducing the senescence of fibroblasts at the level of the papilla of the hair follicle.
• a suspension of non-pathological human fibroblasts of the dermal papilla was prepared by culturing said fibroblasts on basal culture medium in the presence of a growth factor solution (0.2% v / v), to which benzopyrene ( BaP) was added at final concentrations of 5 or 10 ⁇ / L final medium, as well as a final concentration of 0.5% (w / v medium) of N. lappaceum seed extract prepared according to the example la) or without extract (Control). The suspension was centrifuged (5 min, 200g) and the aggregates obtained were incubated at 37 ° C (5% CO 2) for a period of 5 days.
• a growth factor solution 0.2% v / v
• BaP benzopyrene
• the micro-follicle model consists of co-culturing fibroblasts of the papilla, keratinocytes from the outer sheath of the hair follicle and melanocytes in 3 dimensions.
• This cellular model is the closest reconstructed organ model of the hair follicle by allowing the integration of neuro-epidermo-mesenchymal interactions between different cell types.
• the micro-follicles were grown. Non-pathological papilla fibroblasts were cultured for 3 days. The melanocytes and keratinocytes of the outer sheath of the hair follicle are then added to the neo-papilla to form the micro-follicle. After 24h culture, the aqueous extract of N. lappaceum seed was added. The same medium was cultured without extract according to the invention (Control). Culture media and microfollicles were collected after 48 hours of treatment for the analyzes.
• Example 6a Increased cell viability in the microfollicle
• the cell viability of the micro-follicle was measured by the PrestoBlue method (Thermo Fisher Scientific). This colorimetric method is based on the reduction and fluorescence emission of a resazurin reagent by viable cells. The measurements were carried out after 48 hours of treatment. The values are expressed in average% after normalization by the untreated control.
• the seed extract according to the invention has the capacity to increase the cell viability of micro follicles, so it is an active extract to reduce the stress induced by pollution, especially in the scalp and / or skin appendages, preferentially hair.
• Example 6b Reduction of cellular damage in the microfollicle
• the seed extract according to the invention has the capacity to reduce cell damage by making an active extract to reduce the harmful effects of pollution on the scalp and cutaneous appendages, preferably hair.
• Example 7 Example of a cosmetic ingredient comprising the extract of N. lappaceum.
• compositions below are prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular as regards the different phases to be mixed together.
• the amounts indicated are in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Example 8a Serum for the body and the face:
• Phase Denomination Amount (% by total weight) A Water 94.75

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