EP3554461B1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des corps gras solides et un polymère gélifiant - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des corps gras solides et un polymère gélifiant Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3554461B1
EP3554461B1 EP17821551.3A EP17821551A EP3554461B1 EP 3554461 B1 EP3554461 B1 EP 3554461B1 EP 17821551 A EP17821551 A EP 17821551A EP 3554461 B1 EP3554461 B1 EP 3554461B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
ranging
composition according
ethylene oxide
alcohol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Revoked
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EP17821551.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3554461A1 (fr
Inventor
Carole Guiramand
Nathalie BOILEAU
Léonora HENAULT-MEZAIZE
Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS
Raluca Lorant
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a composition in the form of a fat phase-in-water emulsion comprising a mixture of solid fatty substances and of thickening polymers.
  • the invention also relates to the use of such a composition for treating the skin.
  • compositions containing such tensioning agents although having a very satisfactory immediate tensioning effect, have the drawback of presenting a certain level of discomfort to the user on account of the skin tautness generated by the tensioning polymer.
  • the tensioning polymer film does not always have good persistence on account of its fragmentation over time giving rise to cracking and fluffing, and also a loss of efficacy over time of the tensioning effect.
  • a composition comprising a particular mixture of solid fatty substances and particular thickening polymers as defined below makes it possible, after application to the skin, in particular to facial skin, to provide a surface covering for the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface by providing a sensation of containment.
  • the skin is less slack, tighter and firmer.
  • the covering effect also gives rise to tightening of the skin pores.
  • the skin is enveloped with a supple, comfortable (absence of tautness) and invisible covering film.
  • the covering effect of the applied composition contributes towards reducing the appearance of the fine lines of the skin, in particular the fine lines close to the eyes.
  • the user feels the surface covering effect affording a sensation of restructuring and redensifying of the skin tissues.
  • the covering effect is perceived on each application of the composition to the skin: it is felt by the user even after several weeks of use.
  • composition applied to the skin also gives the skin a matt effect, and also an effect of concealing and attenuating skin defects such as fine lines and pores.
  • composition according to the invention has good stability, especially after storage for one month, or even two months, at room temperature (25°C) and at 45°C.
  • the composition remains homogeneous and does not show any phase separation or any release of oil at the surface of the composition.
  • the hardness of the composition as described below varies little.
  • the composition is easy to spread on account of the fondant texture of the composition, thus allowing uniform distribution of the product on the surface of the skin: it penetrates easily into the skin.
  • the applied product is not tacky or greasy and has a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a fatty phase-in-water emulsion comprising:
  • the present invention also relates to a process for preparing said composition.
  • the present invention similarly relates to a process for the treatment, especially the cosmetic treatment, of the skin, comprising the application of the composition described previously to the skin.
  • the skin treatment process is in particular a process for treating slackening of the skin and/or for reducing the appearance of the fine lines of the skin.
  • the process is in particular performed on the skin of the face (cheeks, forehead, chin, around the eyes) and the neck.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase which comprises at least two different solid fatty substances as defined below.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one first solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25°C, ranging from 0.2 to 2 MPa and at least one second solid fatty substance with a hardness ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness of the solid fatty substance is measured according to the following protocol: An amount of about 15 g of solid fatty substance is heated to 85°C, poured into an aluminium capsule 75 mm in diameter and 15 mm deep and then left to cool for 24 hours at room temperature (25°C). The capsule is filled to 75%.
  • the hardness the solid fatty substance is measured with a TA/TX2i Plus texturometer (Swantech) equipped with a cylindrical spindle chosen according to the texture of the solid fatty substance:
  • the measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the solid fatty substance to a depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum compression force value reached; a second "relaxation” step where the spindle remains at this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third "withdrawal” step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the spindle withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
  • the hardness value corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the solid fatty substance.
  • the hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa. Five measurements are taken on each sample, and the mean of the five measurements is then calculated.
  • the first solid fatty substance has a melting point below or equal to 45°C (especially ranging from 28 to 45°C), preferably ranging from 28 to 40°C.
  • the second solid fatty substance has a melting point above 45°C, preferably above 45°C and below or equal to 90°C.
  • the solid fatty substances may be chosen from pasty fatty substances and waxes.
  • pasty refers to a water-immiscible compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.
  • the pasty fatty substance may be a hydrocarbon-based or silicone substance.
  • the term "wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a solid fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by the company TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of about 5 mg of solid fatty substance is placed in a "hermetic aluminium capsule" crucible.
  • the sample When the solid fatty substance is soft (pasty fatty substance), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise going from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, it is left at the 80°C isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from -80°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute.
  • the sample When the solid fatty substance is hard (wax), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise going from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, it is left at the 120°C isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute.
  • a first temperature rise going from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, it is left at the 120°C isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C/minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C/minute.
  • the melting point value of the solid fatty substance is the value at the top of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes.
  • the first solid fatty substance may be chosen from:
  • Such copolymers are especially described in FR-A-2 425 848 .
  • Use is preferably made of a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol such as the copolymers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by AkzoNobel (INCI name: PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer).
  • the first solid fatty substance is chosen from:
  • the first solid fatty substance is chosen from mango butter, cocoa butter; the mixture of mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes; hydrogenated jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof.
  • the first solid fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second solid fatty substance may be chosen from fatty substances with a hardness, at 25°C, ranging from 5 to 15 MPa, preferably ranging from 6 to 12 MPa.
  • the second solid fatty substance may be chosen from:
  • the second solid fatty substance is chosen from waxes of animal origin and in particular white beeswax; C16-C50 fatty alcohols and in particular stearyl alcohol; mineral waxes and in particular ozokerite, microcrystalline wax; plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax; hydrogenated jojoba oil; polyethylene wax; C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the second solid fatty substance is chosen from plant waxes such as candelilla wax or carnauba wax; mineral waxes and in particular ozokerite; C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers (poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate) homopolymers), and mixtures thereof.
  • the second solid fatty substance comprises a C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer, in particular a poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate) homopolymer, and preferentially a poly(stearyl acrylate) homopolymer; optionally combined with a plant wax or a mineral wax such as those described previously.
  • the second solid fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first and second solid fatty substances may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 6% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 8% to 16% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 10% to 14%.
  • the first and second solid fatty substances are present in the composition according to the invention in a mass ratio of first solid fatty substance to second solid fatty substance ranging from 0.4 to 0.8, preferably ranging from 0.45 to 0.75 and preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 0.7.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative hydrophilic gelling polymer.
  • associative polymer means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
  • hydrophobic group means a group or a polymer bearing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.
  • hydrophilic gelling polymer means a polymer that is capable of thickening an aqueous medium.
  • the associative hydrophilic gelling polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers, C12-C20 fatty alcohol ethers of nonionic hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic associative acrylic polymers.
  • anionic associative acrylic polymers mention may be made of:
  • nonionic associative polymers that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer having a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer).
  • These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 10 to 500 and preferably from 10 to 300 oxyethylene groups.
  • polyurethane polyethers are, for example:
  • polyurethane polyethers are, for example:
  • a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 200 mol of ethylene oxide ether of polyethylene glycol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and/or of methylglucose, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 6 mol of ethylene oxide and of tridecyl alcohol, hexamethylene diisocyanate, and containing C16-C20 alcohol end groups, such as the product sold under the name Avalure® Flex 6 Polymer by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: Polyurethane-62).
  • Use is preferably made of the polyurethane polyethers described previously as examples.
  • the associative polymers as described above have a weight-average molecular mass of less than 500 000 and even more preferentially of less than 100 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which may be measured via the methods known to those skilled in the art.
  • the associative polymer is chosen from:
  • the associative polymer is chosen from methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical) (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3).
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of associative aqueous gelling agents as described previously. According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise the combination:
  • the associative hydrophilic gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one particular additional aqueous gelling agent as described below.
  • aqueous gelling agent also referred to as a “hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the additional aqueous gelling agent is different from the associative polymer described previously.
  • the additional aqueous gelling agent is chosen from the following compounds:
  • the homopolymer may be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, chosen especially from pentaerythrityl allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether and propylene allyl ether.
  • a crosslinking agent chosen especially from pentaerythrityl allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether and propylene allyl ether.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the polymers sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 980 or 981, or Carbopol Ultrez 10, or by the company 3V under the name Synthalen K or Synthalen L or Synthalen M.
  • Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging especially to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families.
  • red algae mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae.
  • linear polymers formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by ⁇ (1,3) and ⁇ (1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the ⁇ -D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form.
  • carrageenans which bear one sulfate-ester group
  • iota-carrageenans which bear two sulfate-ester groups
  • lambda-carrageenans which bear three sulfate-ester groups.
  • the carrageenans may be used in acid form or in salified form.
  • Acceptable salts that may be mentioned, in a non-limiting manner, include the lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and ammonium salts or the salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, especially triethylamine or butylamine.
  • This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may be made especially of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-propanol and triethanolamine. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.
  • These sulfated polysaccharides may also comprise a mixture of counterions from among those defined above in a non-limiting manner.
  • Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names SatiagelTM and SatiagumTM, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
  • the homopolymer used according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates.
  • Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.
  • the acrylic acid homopolymer may be advantageously neutralized to a degree ranging from 5% to 80%.
  • sodium polyacrylate that can be used according to the invention, use may be made of those sold under the names Cosmedia SP® or Cosmedia SPL® by the company Cognis, or else Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF.
  • the additional aqueous gelling agent is chosen from the alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, and in particular from sodium polyacrylate homopolymers.
  • the additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil.
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil may be chosen from any oil, which is preferably a physiologically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • composition according to the invention comprises an oil different from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin (triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol), especially such as those described previously, and optionally an additional oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin (triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol).
  • the oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 30% (or 0.1% to 30%) by weight, preferably ranging from 0% to 20% (or 0.1% to 20%) by weight, preferentially ranging from 0% to 15% (or 0.1% to 15%) by weight and better still ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the first and second solid fatty substances are advantageously present in a weight ratio of (first and second solid fatty substances)/oil ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, preferably ranging from 0.6 to 1.4, preferentially ranging from 0.7 to 1.3 and better still ranging from 0.9 to 1.2.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic non-silicone surfactant, which is preferably an emulsifying surfactant.
  • the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from:
  • the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides.
  • the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols may be chosen from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
  • the nonionic surfactants may also be chosen from C8-C30 fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, in particular (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides.
  • the alkyl (poly)glucoside may be chosen from a group comprising the compounds having the following general formula: R 1 O-(G) a in which R 1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, the G group denotes a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl (poly)glucoside may be chosen especially from the group comprising C8-C22 fatty alcohol ethers or mixtures of ethers of glucose or of xylose, preferably of glucose.
  • the unit (or chain) derived from the fatty alcohol of the ethers may be chosen especially from caprylyl, capryl, decyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl (or palmityl), stearyl, octyldodecyl, arachidyl, behenyl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
  • the alkyl (poly)glucoside is chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl xyloside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and a mixture thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.
  • alkyl (poly)glucosides examples include caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC, decyl glucoside sold, for example, under the names Plantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis, Mydol 10 by the company Kao, or Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC, lauryl glucoside sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the name Plantaren 1200, cocoyl glucoside sold, for example, under the name Plantacare 818 UP by the company Cognis, cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Xyliance by the company Soliance, under the name Tego Care CG90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name Emulga
  • the alkyl (poly)glucoside is chosen from arachidyl glucoside, especially as a mixture with arachidyl and behenyl alcohols, such as the product sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ethers of polyethylene glycol especially containing from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid ester of glucose or of methylglucose, may be chosen from:
  • the C 8 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
  • the polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular such as lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
  • the C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid monoesters of glycerol may be chosen from glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl isostearate (Peceol Isostéarique from Gattefosse), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 ATO from Gattefosse), glyceryl arachidate; glycerol diesters such as glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl dimyristate, glyceryl dipalmitate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl diarachidate.
  • the polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol may be chosen from polyglycerolated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such as:
  • the C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units may be chosen from: PEG-8 behenate; PEG-8 caprylate; PEG-8 caprate; PEG-6 caprylate/caprate; PEG-8 caprylate/caprate; PEG-5 cocoate; PEG-8 cocoate; PEG-9 cocoate; PEG-10 cocoate; PEG-15 cocoate; PEG-4 ethylhexanoate; PEG-5 ethylhexanoate; PEG-13 ethylhexanoate; PEG-2 isostearate; PEG-4 isostearate; PEG-6 isostearate; PEG-8 isostearate; PEG-10 isostearate; PEG-12 isostearate; PEG-20 isostearate; PEG-30 isostearate; PEG-40 isostearate; PEG-2 laurate; PEG-4 laurate; PEG-6 laurate; PEG-8 laurate; P
  • the C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of glucose or of (C1-C2)alkylglucose or of sucrose may be chosen from glucose palmitate, (C1-C2)alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, (C1-C2)alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (INCI
  • the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight and even better still ranging from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises at least water.
  • Water may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 25% to 90% by weight, ranging from 30% to 80% by weight and better still from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one organic solvent that is water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), for instance linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butantol, isobutanol, pentanol or hexanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sorbitol and polyethylene glycols containing from 2 to 200 ethylene units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-miscible organic solvent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane, also referred to in the rest of the description as a "silicone elastomer".
  • elastomer means a deformable, flexible solid material having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or of a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractibility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
  • This elastomer is formed from polymer chains of high molecular weight, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane(s) used in the composition are partially or totally crosslinked. They may then be in the form of particles. These particles may have any form and may, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
  • these elastomeric organopolysiloxanes When they are included in an oily phase, these elastomeric organopolysiloxanes become transformed, depending on the amount of oily phase used, into a product of spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of small amounts of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of larger amounts of oily phase.
  • the gelation of the oily phase with these elastomers may be total or partial.
  • the elastomers of the invention may be conveyed in the form of an anhydrous gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and of an oily phase.
  • the oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous gel of elastomeric organopolysiloxane contains one or more oils that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils.
  • the oily phase is a liquid silicone phase, containing one or more oils chosen from linear-chain or cyclic-chain polydimethylsiloxanes, which are liquid at room temperature, optionally comprising an alkyl or aryl chain that is on the side or at the end of the chain, the alkyl chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used according to the invention may be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886 and from those described in patent US-A-5 266 321 . They may be emulsifying or non-emulsifying.
  • non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes refers to a silicone elastomer not comprising a hydrophilic chain, such as a (poly)oxyalkylene or (poly)glycerol chain.
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl),
  • Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes refers to organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.
  • the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) are elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which may be obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or via a crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886 .
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking reaction is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (A) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (A) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the organopolysiloxanes (A) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and
  • Compound (B) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A).
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (A) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (B) is at least 4.
  • Compound (B) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure.
  • Compound (B) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A).
  • compound (B) is advantageous for compound (B) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (B) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or x
  • the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition of the invention may be, for example, those sold under the names KSG 6 by the company Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by the company Dow Corning; Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by the company Grant Industries, or those sold in the form of already-constituted gels: KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from the company Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel, Gransil SR DC556 Gel and Gransil RPS from Grant Industries; 1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168 from the company General Electric.
  • silicone elastomers having the INCI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer (or polysilicone-11) as a mixture with a cyclic silicone oil.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane, for instance Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from the company Grant Industries.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be present in the composition according to the invention in an (active material) content ranging from 0 to 2% (or 0.1% to 2%), preferably ranging from 0 to 1.5% (0.1% to 1.5%) by weight and preferentially ranging from 0 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may comprise additives that are common in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, such as moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, antioxidants, preserving agents, acidifying or basifying agents, fragrances, film-forming agents, fillers, dyestuffs, UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • additives that are common in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, such as moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, antioxidants, preserving agents, acidifying or basifying agents, fragrances, film-forming agents, fillers, dyestuffs, UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention has a compact texture and thus has a particular rheological profile, due to the presence of the solid fatty substances and of the associative aqueous gelling polymer.
  • the composition according to the invention has a hardness, at 25°C, ranging from 1 to 30 kPa (better still from 2 to 30 kPa or from 3 to 30 kPa), preferably ranging from 1 to 15 kPa (better still from 2 to 15 kPa or from 3 to 15 kPa) and preferentially ranging from 1 to 10 kPa (better still from 2 to 10 kPa or from 3 to 10 kPa).
  • the hardness of the composition is measured at 25°C according to the following protocol:
  • the composition is packaged in a levelled-off 15 ml glass cosmetics jar.
  • the compression force is measured with a TA XT2i texturometer and the Texture Expert Exceed software.
  • the spindle used is the stainless-steel P/6 mm cylinder, with the following parameters:
  • the invention also relates to a process for preparing the composition according to the invention, comprising the following steps:
  • the amounts indicated are mass amounts relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the associative aqueous gelling agents used are as follows:
  • Example 1 Example 2 Water qs 100 qs 100 Aqueous phase Glycerol 7 7 Preserving agents 1.2 1.2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 PEG-136/steareth-100/HDI copolymer (Rheoluxe 811 from Elementis) 0.25 0.5 Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) 0.8 0.8 Boron nitride 2 2 Fatty phase Mixture of arachidyl glucoside and of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols (15/55/30) (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC) 3 3 Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5 5 Candelilla wax - 3 Cocoa butter 4 4 Carnauba wax 4 - Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10cS from Dow Corning) 5 5 Mixture of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane and of polydi
  • compositions 1 and 2 were evaluated by a panel of 12 women from 40 to 60 years old who were regular users of anti-ageing care products. These women applied compositions 1 and 2 to the skin of their face under the usual application conditions.
  • compositions 1 and 2 are easy to spread and penetrate quickly. The textures are non-tacky and afford a sensation of softness on application. After application of compositions 1 and 2 to the face, no sensation of tautness or tackiness was experienced. After 3 days of use, compositions 1 and 2 are judged to be comfortable.
  • composition 1 the majority of the panel found an anti-ageing effect (smooth, taut skin) and a skin-firming effect.
  • composition 2 the majority of the panel found that the facial pores are tightened, and also found an anti-ageing effect (taut, reinvigorated, tonified, firmed skin, attenuation of fine lines).
  • the following facial care composition was prepared: Isostearyl neopentanoate 5% Polystearyl acrylate 1% Behenyl alcohol 1.2% Carnauba wax 2% Paraffin wax 2% Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10cS from Dow Corning) 5% Mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) 5% Boron nitride 2% Oxyethylenated (25 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol 1.8% Acticire 4% Methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate at 23% AM in water (Viscophobe DB 1000 from Amerchol) 2.17% Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) 0.8% Glycerol 7% Sequestrant 0.1% Preserving agents qs Water qs 100%
  • the composition obtained has a hardness of 6.59 kPa.
  • the composition obtained is stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25°C) and at 45°C; it has a compact texture in accordance with its hardness.
  • the composition was evaluated by a panel of 12 women over 55 years old to obtain the perception by the panel of the sensation on use and the effects perceived on the skin.
  • the panel judged that the composition tested has the following cosmetic properties:
  • the composition has a compact texture: when the composition packaged in a jar is taken up with a finger, the finger does not enter the composition but remains in contact with the surface of the composition. On application to facial skin, the composition penetrates rapidly into the skin, despite its compactness. After application, the skin is enveloped with a covering film.
  • Capacity for covering the surface of the skin especially giving rise to tightening of the pores, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment.
  • the skin feels like it is enveloped with a supple, invisible covering film.
  • the user has a sensation of restructuring and redensifying of the skin tissues.
  • compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25°C) and at 45°C; compositions 4 to 8, 10 and 11 have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
  • compositions spread and penetrate easily on/into the skin. After application, the applied compositions are not tacky or greasy and have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
  • compositions afford a covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment.
  • the skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened.
  • the skin is enveloped with a supple, comfortable (absence of tautness) and invisible covering film.
  • compositions spread easily on the skin, and are not tacky or greasy after application: they have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
  • the compositions afford a comfortable (absence of tautness), supple covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment.
  • the skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened.
  • Examples 14, 15 Two compositions (Examples 14, 15) outside the invention, similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Acticire (first solid fatty substance) and without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent), respectively, were prepared.
  • 3 14 15 Isostearyl neopentanoate 5 5 5 Carnauba wax 2 2 2 2 Paraffin wax 2 2 2 Behenyl alcohol 1.2 1.2 1.2 Acticire 4 - 4 Polystearyl acrylate 1 1 1 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10cS from Dow Corning) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) 5 5 5 5 5 5 Boron nitride
  • the hardnesses of each composition were measured at T0 and also at T 2 months after storage at 45°C; the variation of the hardness of the compositions after storage was calculated.
  • the cosmetic properties were evaluated by applying each composition to facial skin.
  • Example 14 Composition:
  • Example 16 (outside the invention) :
  • One composition outside the invention similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent) and with in place, in same amount of active material, poly acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS®) Isostearyl neopentanoate 5% Polystearyl acrylate 1% Behenyl alcohol 1.2% Carnauba wax 2% Paraffin wax 2% Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10cS from Dow Corning) 5% Mixture of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning) 5% Boron nitride 2% Oxyethylenated (25 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol 1.8% Acticire Methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ poly acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with
  • the composition obtained has a hardness of 1,74 kPa.
  • the composition of example 16 is more supple (less compact); after application on the skin, the skin is enveloped with a covering film which affording a lower sensation of containment and which have a lower matt effect.
  • the film is also more tacky.

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Claims (36)

  1. Composition sous la forme d'une émulsion phase grasse-dans-eau comprenant :
    (a) une première substance grasse solide dotée d'une dureté, à 25 °C, allant de 0,2 à 2 MPa ;
    (b) une deuxième substance grasse solide dotée d'une dureté, à 25 °C, allant de 5 à 15 MPa ;
    (c) un polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif.
  2. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce la première substance grasse solide a un point de fusion allant de 28 à 45 °C, de préférence allant de 28 à 40 °C.
  3. Composition selon l'une ou l'autre des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la première substance grasse solide est choisie parmi des beurres d'origine végétale, des huiles végétales hydrogénées, la gelée de pétrole, des éthers de pentaérythritol de polyalkylène glycol en C2-C4, des copolymères à blocs ou d'oxyde d'éthylène et/ou d'oxyde de propylène et d'un oxyde d'alkylène possédant de 6 à 40 atomes de carbones, le copolymère possédant un poids moléculaire moyen en poids allant de 5 000 à 8 000 ; des esters issus de la condensation d'un acide dicarboxylique linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence saturé, en C6-C10 et d'un ester de diglycérol et d'acides monocarboxyliques linéaires ou ramifiés, éventuellement hydroxylés, en C6-C20 ; des homopolymères d'un ester de vinyle contenant des groupes alkyle en C8-C30 ; des copolymères de stéarate d'allyle et d'acétate de vinyle ; le propionate d'arachidyle ; des triglycérides d'acide gras, saturé ou non, linéaire ou ramifié, éventuellement monohydroxylé ou polyhydroxylé, en C6-C30 ; des esters de pentaérythritol choisis parmi des esters de pentaérythritol d'acide gras en C8-C22, des esters de pentaérythritol d'acide dicarboxylique en C4-C10, et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; des esters de dimère d'alcool dilinoléique et de d'acide dilinoléique, dans laquelle les groupes hydroxyles sont estérifiés avec un mélange de phytostérols, d'alcool béhénylique et d'alcool isostéarique ; des esters d'acide dilinoléique et d'un mélange de phytostérols, d'alcool isostéarique, d'alcool cétylique, d'alcool stéarylique et d'alcool béhénylique ; des esters d'huile de ricin hydrogénée et du dimère d'acide dilinoléique ; des esters d'huile de ricin hydrogénée et d'acides gras en C16-C22 ; des cires d'origine végétale ; une cire microcristalline ; un copolymère de vinylpyrrolidone/éicosène ; et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  4. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la première substance grasse solide est choisie parmi des beurres d'origine végétale, des huiles végétales hydrogénées, et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  5. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la première substance grasse solide est choisie parmi le beurre de mangue, le beurre de cacao ; le mélange de cires végétales de mimosa, de jojoba et de tournesol ; l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée ; et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  6. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la première substance grasse solide est présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 15 % en poids, de préférence allant de 1 % à 10 % en poids et encore mieux de 2 % à 6 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  7. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide possède une dureté, à 25 °C, allant de 6 à 12 MPa.
  8. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide possède un point de fusion supérieur à 45 °C et inférieur ou égal à 90 °C.
  9. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide est choisie parmi des esters d'éthylèneglycol d'acide gras en C12-C30, des cires d'origine animale, des C30-45 alkyl-diméthicones, des alcools gras comprenant de 16 à 50 atomes de carbone, des cires d'origine minérale, des cires d'origine végétale, des huiles végétales hydrogénées, des cires de polyéthylène, des cires de paraffine, des cires de polyméthylène, des esters d'acide gras en C14-C30 d'une huile végétale, des homopolymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C10 à C30 ; et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  10. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide est choisie parmi les cires d'origine animale, les alcools gras en C16-C50 ; les cires d'origine minérale; les cires d'origine végétale ; les homopolymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C10 à C30 ; et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  11. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide est choisie parmi la cire de candelilla, la cire de carnauba ; l'ozokérite ; les homopolymères de poly(acrylate de stéaryle), les homopolymères de poly(acrylate de béhényle) ; et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  12. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide comprend un homopolymère de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C10 à C30, de préférence un homopolymère de poly(acrylate de stéaryle) ou de poly(acrylate de béhényle), et préférentiellement un homopolymère de poly(acrylate de stéaryle) ; éventuellement combinée avec une cire d'origine végétale ou une cire d'origine minérale.
  13. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la deuxième substance grasse solide est présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 15 % en poids, de préférence allant de 1 % à 10 % en poids, et encore mieux de 2 % à 8 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  14. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les première et deuxième substances grasses solides sont présentes en une teneur totale allant de 6 % à 25 % en poids, de préférence allant de 6 % à 20 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 8 % à 16 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement allant de 10 % à 14 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  15. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les première et deuxième substances grasses solides sont présentes selon un rapport massique de première substance grasse solide sur deuxième substance grasse solide allant de 0,4 à 0,8, de préférence allant de 0,45 à 0,75, et préférentiellement allant de 0,5 à 0,7.
  16. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est choisi parmi les polyuréthane polyéthers associatifs non ioniques, les éthers d'alcool gras en C12-C20 et d'hydroxyéthylcellulose non ionique et les polymères acryliques associatifs anioniques.
  17. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est un polymère acrylique associatif anionique choisi parmi :
    (1) les copolymères issus de la polymérisation :
    (i) d'acide (méth)acrylique,
    (ii) d'un monomère de formule (II) ci-dessous :

            CH2=CR'CH2OBnR     (II)

    dans laquelle R' désigne H ou CH3, B désigne le groupe éthylèneoxy (-CH2-CH2-O-), n est zéro ou désigne un entier allant de 1 à 100 (notamment de 5 à 15), et R désigne un groupe à base d'hydrocarbure choisi parmi les groupes alkyle, arylalkyle, aryle, alkylaryle et cycloalkyle, comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence 10 à 24 atomes de carbone, et plus particulièrement encore de 16 à 20 atomes de carbone.
    (2) les copolymères de (i) monomère de formule (III) ci-dessous :
    Figure imgb0007
     dans laquelle R1 désigne H ou CH3 ou C2H5,
    et (ii) d'un monomère de formule (IV) ci-dessous :

            H2C=CR1-COOR3     (IV)

    dans laquelle R1 désigne H ou CH3 ou C2H5, et de préférence H ou CH3, R3 désigne un groupe alkyle en C10-C30, et de préférence en C12-C22 ;
    (3) les terpolymères acryliques comprenant :
    (a) de 19,5 % à 70 % en poids d'un acide carboxylique monoéthyléniquement α,β-insaturé contenant de 3 à 5 atomes de carbone,
    (b) de 20 % à 80 % en poids de (méth)acrylates d'alkyle en C1-C4,
    (c) de 0,5 % à 60 % en poids d'un macromonomère d'uréthane non-ionique de formule (IV) ci-dessous :
    Figure imgb0008
     dans laquelle p va de 6 à 150 et R2 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyle linéaires comprenant de 18 à 26 et de préférence de 20 à 24 atomes de carbone. De préférence, le radical R2 est un radical béhényle.
    (4) les copolymères d'un acide carboxylique monoéthyléniquement α,β-insaturé et d'un ester d'acide carboxylique monoéthyléniquement α,β-insaturé et d'un alcool gras en C12-C30 polyoxyéthylénisé, notamment comportant 10 à 50 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène, et d'un ester d'acide carboxylique monoéthyléniquement α,β-insaturé et d'un alcool en C1-C4.
    (5) les copolymères d'acide (méth)acrylique, de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C1-C4 réticulé, de méthacrylate d'éther de C10-C30 alkyle de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 25 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'éther d'allyle de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 20 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène / polypropylèneglycol contenant 5 motifs d'oxyde de propylène.
  18. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est un terpolymère d'acide méthacrylique/ acrylate de méthyle/ condensat de diméthyl-méta-isopropénylbenzylisocyanate et d'alcool béhénylique polyoxyéthylénisé (40 OE).
  19. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est choisi parmi les éthers d'alcool gras en C12-C20 d'hydroxyéthylcellulose, de préférence choisi parmi les éthers d'alcool cétylique d'hydroxyéthylcellulose.
  20. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est un polyuréthane polyéther choisi parmi :
    (1) les polyuréthane polyéthers issus de la polycondensation de :
    (i) un polyéthylèneglycol comprenant de 120 à 250 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    (ii) un monoalcool polyoxyéthylénisé comprenant de 14 à 22 atomes de carbone, comprenant de 15 à 120 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène (notamment de 20 à 100 OE), et
    (iii) un diisocyanate contenant de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone, de préférence choisi parmi le méthylène-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) et le diisocyanate d'hexamethylène, et préférentiellement le diisocyanate d'hexamethylène.
    (2) les polyuréthane polyéthers issus de la polycondensation de :
    (i) un polyéthylèneglycol comprenant de 130 à 200 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    (ii) un monoalcool comprenant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, et
    (iii) un diisocyanate ayant de 6 à 20 atomes de carbone, de préférence choisi parmi le méthylène-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) et le diisocyanate d'hexamethylène, préférentiellement le méthylène-bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate).
    (3) les polycondensats de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 200 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'éther de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 10 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et de méthylglucose, d'éther de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 6 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'alcool tridécylique, de diisocyanate d'hexamethylène, et contenant des groupes terminaux de type alcool en C16-C20.
  21. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant aqueux associatif est un polyéther polyuréthane choisi parmi :
    - le polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 136 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool stéarylique polyoxyéthylénisé à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'hexaméthylène diisocyanate ;
    - le polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol à 240 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool décyltétradécylique polyoxyéthylénisé contenant 20 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène et de diisocyanate d'hexamethylène ;
    - un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 150 ou 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool stéarylique et de méthylène-bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) ;
    - un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 150 ou 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool décylique et de méthylène-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) ;
    - un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 200 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'éther de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 10 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et de méthylglucose, d'éther de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 6 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'alcool tridécylique, de diisocyanate d'hexamethylène, et contenant des groupes terminaux de type alcool en C16-C20 ;
    et de préférence choisi parmi :
    - le polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 136 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool stéarylique polyoxyéthylénisé comportant 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et de diisocyanate d'hexamethylène ;
    - le polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 240 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool décyltetradécylique polyoxyéthylénisé ayant 20 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène et de diisocyanate d'hexamethylène ;
    - un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol contenant 150 ou 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool décylique et de méthylène-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) .
  22. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le polymère gélifiant hydrophile associatif est présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 2 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0,2 % à 1,5 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 0,2 % à 1 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  23. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un gélifiant aqueux supplémentaire choisi parmi :
    - les homopolymères d'acide acrylique réticulés, de préférence réticulés avec un agent réticulant choisi parmi l'éther d'allyle de pentaérythritol, l'éther d'allyle de saccharose et l'éther d'allyle de propylène ;
    - les carraghénanes, de préférence les iota-carraghénanes ;
    - les sels de métal alcalin d'homopolymère d'acide acrylique, de préférence les homopolymères de poly(acrylate de sodium).
  24. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un gélifiant aqueux supplémentaire choisi parmi les homopolymères polyacrylate de sodium.
  25. Composition selon l'une ou l'autre des revendications 23 et 24, caractérisée en ce que le gélifiant aqueux supplémentaire est présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 5 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0,1 % à 3 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 0,1 % à 2 % en poids, et mieux allant de 0,2 % à 1,5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  26. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une huile.
  27. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une huile présente en une teneur allant de 0 % à 30 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0 % à 20 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 0 % à 15 % en poids et mieux allant de 5 à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  28. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une huile, l'huile et les première et deuxième substances grasses solides étant présentes en un rapport pondéral (première et deuxième substances grasses solides) / huile allant de 0,5 à 1,5, de préférence allant de 0,6 à 1,4, préférentiellement allant de 0,7 à 1,3, et encore mieux allant de 0,9 à 1,2.
  29. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un tensioactif non ionique non de silicone.
  30. Composition selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif non ionique non de silicone est choisi parmi :
    - les alcools gras en C8-C30 polyoxyéthylénisés contenant notamment de 2 à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    - les éthers d'alcool gras en C8-C30 et de sucre, en particulier des (C8-C30)alkyl-(poly)glucosides,
    - les éthers de polyéthylèneglycol, contenant notamment de 20 à 120 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène, et d'un ester d'acide gras en C8-C30 de glucose ou de méthylglucose,
    - les esters d'acide gras en C8-C30 de sorbitane
    - les esters d'acides gras en C8-C30 polyoxyéthylénisés de sorbitane, contenant notamment de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    - les esters polyoxyéthylénisés d'acide gras en C8-C30 de sorbitane, contenant notamment de 2 à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    - les monoesters ou les diesters d'acide gras en C8-C30 de glycérol,
    - les esters d'acides gras en C8-C30 polyglycérolés, contenant notamment de 2 à 16 moles de glycérol,
    - les esters d'acide gras en C8-C30 de polyéthylèneglycol, ayant notamment de 2 à 200 motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène,
    - les esters d'acide gras en C8-C30 de glucose ou d'alkyl(C1-C2)glucose ou de saccharose,
    - et des mélanges de ceux-ci ;
    de préférence choisi parmi les alcools gras en C8-C30 polyoxyéthylénisés, notamment contenant de 2 à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et les alkyl(C8-C30) (poly)glucosides ;
    préférentiellement, choisi parmi les alcools gras en C8-C30 polyoxyéthylénisés, notamment contenant de 2 à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène.
  31. Composition selon la revendication 29 ou 30, caractérisée en ce que le tensioactif non ionique non de silicone est présent dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 4 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 % à 3 % en poids, et mieux encore de 0,4 % à 2,5 % en poids, et même encore mieux allant de 0,4 % à 2 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  32. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend de l'eau en une teneur allant de 25 % à 90 % en poids, de préférence de 30 % à 80 % en poids, et mieux encore de 40 % à 70 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  33. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un organopolysiloxane élastomère non émulsifiant.
  34. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle possède une dureté, à 25 °C, allant de 1 à 30 kPa, de préférence allant de 1 à 15 kPa et préférentiellement allant de 1 à 10 kPa.
  35. Procédé, notamment procédé cosmétique, pour le traitement de la peau, comprenant l'application à la peau d'une composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes.
  36. Procédé selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que le procédé est destiné au traitement du relâchement cutané et/ou à la réduction de l'apparence des ridules de la peau.
EP17821551.3A 2016-12-16 2017-12-15 Composition cosmétique comprenant des corps gras solides et un polymère gélifiant Revoked EP3554461B1 (fr)

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FR3117863B1 (fr) * 2020-12-21 2024-01-19 Oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant une silicone aminée, une silicone non aminée et un polymère associatif non ionique, et procédé de traitement cosmétique
FR3140761A1 (fr) * 2022-10-13 2024-04-19 L'oreal Composition comprenant un tensioactif non ionique, une huile hydrocarbonée, un beurre et une cire

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CN110087622A (zh) 2019-08-02
EP3554461A1 (fr) 2019-10-23
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FR3060307A1 (fr) 2018-06-22
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